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Show VI Vi Vi fpondents would give Orders for enoughto make a Carriage: As for Example, if two I have an hundred times heard Boafting or three Perfons would join to give Orders of the Wines of manyHills near Auxerre, to for a thonfand Bottles, this would be a comwhich they give the Name of the Wine of pleat Carriage: And as thofe of Volvet draw Burgundy: \t is true, thofe Hills are in Bur- their Wine into Bottles at the End of Decemgundy, but they are ninety Miles diftant from ber, a Perfon that would have five hundred the true Hills, of which 1 fpoke juft now, Bottles of Chaffagne or Nuis, ought to join which only produce thefe Wines of Burgundy with another that would havethe like Onanwhich are in Reputation, and which they tity. The Agent might bottle up thefe drink after two Manners, by the Nofe and by Wines a Year after the Vintage, either more the Mouth, either both at once, or feparately 5 or lefs; and the Purchafers might receive the both at once, in that whenone drinks them, Wines of Burgundy exquifite and delicious ; the Pleafure which he has in the Smell vies with and in like manner all other Wines that they the Relih it has on the Palate ; and feparately; have a mind to have. As to the Price of the fo that a Perfon that has been ufed to drink Wines of Beaune, Voluet, Pomard, Cha agny it, may know whether it be the trne Burgundy and Nuwis, it is pretty near equal, or at moft or not by the Smell or fweet Odour. The the Difference is not very great. A Queve good afters tafte it by their Nofe, before of Volnet Wine contains four hundred eighty they put it to their Mouths; and all the other Paris Pints, which will make five hundred Climates of Burgundy, as thofe of Chablis and Bottles, and will coft in the Country, fome Auxerve, have no fuch Quality as the true Years, ten, twelve, fourteenor eighteen, and Wines of Burgundy have, altho’ theyare really at moft twenty Livres Sterling, 'The Carriage made and produc ‘d there. maycoft to Cz/ais twelve or thirteen Livres; that have not been there, to believe that this Relation is agreeable to Truth. It remains for me to relate how thefe Wines and afterwards from Calais to London a very may be brought to England. It has always been the Cuftom to bring thofe Wines from Burgundy in their Casks ; but as the Carriage is long, andthere is oftentimes a Rifque run, fo the Carriers as well by Land as by Sea, are fmall Matter: So that taking the Years one with another, the deareft Wine of Burgundy, except that of Chambertin, whichis the deareft, would fcarce, in London, ftand in fourteen or fifteen So/s a Bottle, the Entry not being not always faithful; for notwith{tanding all reckon’din, the Precaution that can be taken to hinder them from drinking the Wine, they will always find out Stratagems to do it. If it be packed up in Casks with Straw and Linen Cloths, this is but a feeble Obftacle to their Induftry. And for all this Precaution, if the Cask happens to leak by the Way, this will be at the Peril and Lofs of the Purchafer. If thefe Wines be put into double Casks, this Precaution will have no better Succefs than the foregoing, and is expos’d to the fame Rifque ; and the Casks at the Vintages are a great Prejudice to thefe delicate Wines, becaufe this gives the full Scope to the Spirits to evaporate; and of confequencethis will caufea great Diminution of the Quality of the Wine. It ought to be brought in Bottles from Beaune to London: For this Purpofe, fome Agent, who buys the Wines by Order of the Perfon, fhould be addrefs’d to, to drawit out into Bottles, and to fend it in Cafes into Engi. Thefe Cafes being fill'd, need but be by Landabove ninety Miles to Auxerre, where they may be embarqu’d on the River Yone, which paffes into the River Seine, and from thence to Paris, and afterwards to Roiien, where are Veflels which pafa very often to London, If one would have them come from Beaune to Calais by Land, that will alfo be eafy ; for there are Carriers that go thither veryfrequently, who would go very willingly provided they could have Cafés enough to load their Waggons. ‘Ihe Agents of Beaune would alfo be very well pleafed to bottle the Wine that they were order'd to buy, provided their Corre- The Method of making Wine in Provence. The DelicatenefS of the Tafte of Grapes is not always a certain Proof of their Goodnefs for making Wine: It is not always with thefe Grapes fo agrecable to the Tafte that the beft Wines are made: We fhould not be furpriz’d that our Wines are not the moft exquifite, fince we do not obferve any Rule in the Choice of the Grapes, which ought to be done. It is certain, that the Juice of Grapes of different Kinds, cannot but produce a confus'd Mixture, which fuffers divers Alterations in the Casks, by the different Fermentations, which the fulphureous Particles of the Grapes excite there, by which they fuffer themfelves to be very eafily opened at the Approach of the Heat. This is what happens to Wines which have been made of a Mixture of many Kinds of wild Grapes. Experience informs us, that Wine drawn from fuch Grapes, is very fubjeét to ferment and growfoul, affoon as the Heats of the Spring begin to approach, which does not happen in the inter, the Coldnefs of the Air holds it, as it were, bound and embarrafs’d by the fulphureous Particles of the Wine. It is ame thing the Juice of the Gra to Eftrans, Pignoulets, €2c. whentheyare mingled in too great a Quantity with the others. ‘I he common Fault of our Wines is, that they can- not be kept the Year throughout; they are apt to growfoul, or turn, as it is called, upon the leaft Tranfport. 7 The greateft Part of our Citizens believe it to be the Fault of the Soil, principally the Vineyards VA Vineyards planted in the Places where Plaifter Kinds are, of the White Grapes, the Aragnan, or tranfparent Stone is made, under which is the Reudeillat, the Pafeau Blane, the Efivany, containd all that Extent of Ground, which the Uni, the Aubré, Of the Black, the Cataa begins from R.P. Capucins, as far as Aguilles, Jan, the Bouteillan, the Uni Negré. The Muft which they commonly call Payblanc, i.e, White that is drawn from thefe Grapes ought to fer= Country. But how many Vineyards have we ment in the Vat at leaft three Weeks ; when planted in different Soils, that are fubjeét to the Husks muft be feparated from the Mutt. the fame Vice? It is generally agreed, that It isa common Error in this Village, not to the Soil which they call [Gres] Grey, is the let the Wine ferment long enough, beft for Vineyards : Neverthele{3, it is found, It ought to be noted, that the Proportion that the Quarter of Molieres, of Repentance which fhould be kept betweenthe Quantity de Barret, of Montaiguez, are not exempt of thefe Kinds is different, according to the from this Vice. I am of the Opinion, that Defign which every one has ofkeeping thefe it proceeds from the Mixture of too great a Wines. Quantity of different Sorts of Grapes. I The Black Grapes, and above all the Cutecannot deny, after Experience, but the Nature Jan and the Bouteil/an fhould make more than of the Soil, the Culture, and the Dungthey ufe, contribute very much to this Vice, which is what I fhall hereafter examine into. half the Quantity ofall the reft. Thofe that defire to have a Wine of a deeper Red, fhould take a greater Quantity of Therefore it is neceffary to know, what black Grapes, and oughtto let them ftand a Grapes are fit to make good Wine, that may be in a Condition to be kept without being * foul, or turning, and how to make it. It is very true, that a Perfon cannot make from one Vineyard a great Quantity of Wine, that fhall be at the fame time good in Quality. A Vineyard ought to beplanted on thofe high Grounds orHills which are expos’dcither to the South or the South-Weft. And the Soil ought to be a fort of Brown, or approaching to it. Thofe which we call Arpielo, Malaufene, Saveon, are Soils which are {carce proper to nourifh Stocks that will produce Grapes for making good Wine, ‘The Vineyards which are round about the Peres Augupines Reformers, commonly call’d Saint Pierre, are planted in a Soil of Saveonafore- faid, very unfit for producing Grapesof a de- longer Time in the Vat, if they have Occafion to change the Wine from time totime. They make white Wine of the Grapes they call Aubier, Uni, Roudeillat, Aragnan, Pignolet. If they would have Wine proper to keep in the Heat of the Summer, they ought to ufe none but Uni, Aubier, and Aragnan. No body is ignorant that we have Wines that are made but ofone Species of Grapes ; as that of Mufcat Wine, and Claret : For the firft, they make Ufe of Mufcats, as well white as red; for the fecond, of the Grapes they call Clareto. They keep thefe Grapes with us during the whole Winter, and fome Part of the Spring, hanging upon a Beam ina Room. All forts of Grapesare not fit for keeping ; thofe Kinds that are call’d Pendoulans, or Rin de Panfe, Je Land de Poiiere, le Verdau, are the beft for this Purpofe ; the 4ragnan, and Effrani are fo likewite ; alfo the Clareto, the Mufcat and the Red Uni: The Barbaroux and the E/paguin, the Yautier and the Roudeillat will not keep fo long. ‘They ought to be gather’d full ripe, and before the Rains, and to chufe none but thofe that grow uponold Stocks. They alfo preferve thofe Grapes to make what the Latins call Uva Paffe ; not becaufe dry’din the Sun, but becaufe theyare expos'd to the Sunhanging: They call themin French dry’d Grapes: The Provencia/s call them Panfes. They make ufe of none but Grapes commonlycall’d Rin de Panfe or Pendulem, or of Rin Panfe Mufcat, to make the beft Pan/e. Theyalfo make ufe of the Grapes which are call’d Aragnans, which is the moft common Panfe in the hotteft Places. They alfo make ufe of the Grapes call’d licate Relifh, or for making good Wine. The Entrance into the Territory of Tholonet, is, for the moft Part, a Soil which our Country People call Malau/ene ; and alfo the Wines that they produce are none of the beft. Thofe Grapes ought to be chofen which grow upon Stocks that are planted in a Soil fomewhat Rocky. After the Culture, it is very certain that good Wine cannot be drawn from Grapes that have too much Nourifhment, and of which the Sap has not attain’d the laft Degree of Concoétion or Ripenedi. Thofe which we call Ollieros, which are commonly dunged, and which they cultivate with Pains, do give a great Quantity of Grapes, but their great Nourifhment is an Obftacle to their making good Wine. ‘Thofe which we call Open Vineyards, are to be preferr’d to Roudeiilats, and the Plan Eftrani. TheGrape them, We ought alfo to prefer the Grapes of old which we call the Land de Powere, is not made Vineyards to thofe of young ones. ‘The pro- ufe of with us for this Purpofe; altho’ I have Per Vineyards for making good Wine, arethofe been inform’d that they are ufed in hot Counwhich have been planted twenty-five orthirty tries near the Sea-coafts, They make their r the following manner : Years ; the older they are, the more proper Panfes with us They tiethe Grapes in a String, and putthem ing good Wine ; and till the ard has been made {even or eight Years, Wine ought not tobe expected from it. o the Choice of Grapes, we ought to < fome ofthe beft Sorts that we have. Thefe upon another String at both I 3; then they plungetheminto aboiling Lye, in which they mingle alittle Oil, until the Grapes fhrivel, and afterwards expofe them to the Sun ix |