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Show Vi Vi Thofe who would make excellent Wines, and have been trodden, there’ fwims over a never cut the Grapes till after the Sun has Liquor that they call Surméu. They have dry’d up the Dew which has fallen in the Casks of fix-fcore Pots, or half Hogfheads of Night-time ; for this Moiftnefs, although it fixty Pots ranged upon Chantiers, orStillings be but a rarefy’d Air, cools the Grapes, which for Hogfheads, into which, by equal Portions, being caft into the firft Vat, fufpends, and they caft in this firft Running; and afterwards oftentimes hinders the Fermentation. Thofe they put the Grapes that remain on the Prefs, covetous Perfons that are more defirous of the Quantity than the Quality, ufe not thefe Precautions; but on the other hand, thofe who-would make excellent Wines, do not put into the fame Vat any Grapes but thofe of the when the Surmdu has been drawn of: And when thefe have been well prefs’d, all the Li- quor that comes from them is equallydiftribated into thofe Pieces where they have already put the unprefs’d Wine: And then theyopen fame Vine; but almoft all the particular Per- the Prefs, and afterwards with a Planer they fons who have an hundred Perches of Vine- cut the preffed Marc three or four Fingers yard in different Cantons, mingle their Grapes thicknefs round about, and put the Paringsin the one with the other, becaufe the ftrong the Middle, and afterwards pref it again; then helps the weak, and the good mends that they cut it again, andprefs it the third time; which is worfe; and, ina Word, that they and all the Liquors of thefe different Preflings may make the Vatthe larger. ‘The Choice of are equally diftributed into the ‘Tunstill they are full, depends on the Difcernment that the Courtiers Upon which it ought to be obfery’d, that or Commiffioners ought to have, when they the unprefs’d Wine is the moft light, delicate, tafte the Wines that they would fend into other and leaft colour’d Liquor; that which comes Countries, and that which the Eng/ifb Gentle- of the firft Cut of the Prefs the moft racy ; and the Cantons from whence the Wine is produc’d, men ought to recommend to their Commif- that which comes from the fecond and third fioners who furnifh them with Winefor their Cut of the Prefs is more hard, red, and green ; drinking. The Grapes being put into the fermenting Vat, throw up a great Scum, which, by the Agitation, make to the Ears a continual trembling, a little cluttering, and fpread abroad fuch a Scent that is capable of intoxicating, and perfumes the Honfes, and {preads itfelf all over the Town. They do not let the Grapes lie ftill in the fo that thefe three Sorts of Qualities, being united, make a Wine muchbetter, more durable, and better colour’d. All thefe Pieces or Tuns being full, they leave the Bung open, and the Wine in a Fury, fhakes and agitatesitfelf in fuch a manner, that it fends all over the Cellar Fumes that will intoxicate, and which are in fuch Motion, that a lighted Candle being car- Vat ; they ftir them and difturb them: The ried thither will be extinguifh’d: And if this Labourers trample them briskly three different Wine be put in an Effay, and be fhakenalittle times, for the Space of two Hours each time. with the Hand, and youftop the Neck with And to give a clear Idea of the Manner of your Thumb, the Effay will break ina thoutreating the Grapes in the Vat; affoon as they fand Pieces, begin to ferment in the Vat, they tread them In Burgundy, that which theycall an Effay, for two Hours at the leaft; fix Hoursafter isa little round Bottle, in Length about three they tread them again foras long time as be- or four Inches, and about two in Circumfefore ; and fix Hoursafter that they tread them rence, which grows lefg all of a fuddenat the the third time ; and after that they put them Top, in order to form little Neck open, under the Prefs. having a little Rim to receive the Wine and It muft be obferv’d, that the Grapes of the Cork. Volnet, of Pomard and Beaune, being fermented The Wine having caft its Fireand Scum out in the Vat in the Field, cannot be let ftand of the Casks ; eight Days after theyfill them above twelve or eighteen Hours there; thofe up again, and ftop them up with a Vine of Pomard a little lefs; thofe of Beaune fo Leaf, which they fpread over the Bung: long, ora little longer, according to the Deli- And left the Vapours of the Wine fhould catenefs of the Ground, and the Heat of the move this Leaf out of its Place, they lay Grapes: For there are Vineyards behind the a little Stone upon it to keep it down; beHills of Beaune, the Grapes of which don’t caufe if they fhould put upon it a Seal or a begin to ferment till after they have been eight Bung, the Wine not having Air, would pufh or ten Days inthe Vat. Note further, That to the Head of the Casks out: Five or fix Days give a Colour to the Wine, this depends on after they feal it, and near the Bung they the Time more orlefs thatit is left in the Vat. bore a Hole, and ftop the Hole which the As for Example, The Wines of Volnet have Gimlet has made in the Tun with a litte Bit the Colour of a Partridge’s Eye. This is the of round pointed Wood, which they call a Caufe they do not leave the Grapes of this Faucet, which they take out from time to Ground but a verylittle time in the Vat ; and time to let the Spirits evaporate ;_w! ce if they fhould let them be there but a little caution prevents the Wine from buriting longer than they ought, the Wine would lofe Veffel. its Delicacy, and would tafte of the GrapeThis is the Time when at Beau ftone or the Stalks, feen the Merchants from all th After the Grapes have been, according to Europe who come to fecure th their Quality, more or lef time in the Var, their Kings, Princes and Matters The Commiffioners and their Wine Conners prove the Wines although they are not yet drinkable. ‘The Commiffioners are the publick Managers, to which all thofe who would have the Wines of Burgundy, addrefs them- felves either by Letters or in Perfon. ‘Thefe are the Judges, which from time out of Mind, from Father to Son, have certain Experience of all the Vats; who knowthe Climates, Clofes and the Cantons from which they are produc’d, and all the good Cellars; to whomit is fufficient to write what Quantity of Wine one would have, and of what Diftrict or Canton one would have it of, and provided they have the Purchafe-money paid in the Space of the current Year, one maybe fure to which he is to pay the Commiffioner, he fhall not demand more thanfix Deniers per Livre, which will be the Sum of twelve Livres fix Sous ; which being added to the three Livres above, make the Sum offifteen Livres ten Sous ; aSum which would amount to twelve or thirteen Shillings, according to the Ex~ change: And for this {mall Profit, the Commiffioner is oblig’d to advance his Money to the Citizens of whom he buys the Wines; and that too, whenhe does not receive his Payment from the Perfons to whom theyare fent, as it fometimes happens: And the Commiffioner that fhall be convicted oftaking more, whether by Booksor other Proofs, will be punifh’d, as has beenfaid above. be well ferv’d, The Commiffioners having purchas’d and Thefe Managers having receiv’d all rhe Com- prov'd their Wines, according to the Orders they have receiv’d, they caufe the Tuns to be new hoop’d, and put Bars furrounded with Pins of Wood of the 4/pen Tree, and mark them with the Town Mark: And it ought to little Bottle, or the Name of the Vat, with be obferv’d, that no other Country has a the Quantity of the Pieces of Wine whichthey Right to imitate or counterfeit their fecond contain, they carry them to their Houfes, and hooping ; and for the greater Surety, they let them be unftopp’d ; they examine and at- put upon every Cask the Fire-mark, which is tend them carefully, and by the different a B on the Top, two Inches in Length, with Changes, Tafte and Colour, they fee the fu- the Cypherof the Year in which the Casks were ture Colours and Qualities of the Wines that fent from Beauie to go to anyother Place. Thefe are the Precautions that are taken at are in the Tuns from which the Effays are taken. They alfo make yet another Proof Beaune, by which the Wines that come from with the Wine whichis in the Efflays: They thence cannot be miftaken : A Caution othertake Glaffes, upon which they put a finking wife not very neceffary, fince they manifeft Paper, which they {pread, and which juts out themfelves {fo plainly by their Delicacy and over the Glaffes, and prefs their Finger to their Superiority above all other Wines in the make a Concavity ; which may contain a Univerfe: They are befides very beneficial fourth Part of a Glafs of Wine: The Liquor and properto eftablifh and to preferve Health; paffes bylittle and little, and filtres through in this furpaffing the Wines of Champaign, the Paper, and ftrains Drop by Drop in an which flatten theafte, and grate the Palate ; imperceptible manner into the Gla{s which re- but which weaken and extenuate, enervate, ceives it. By the Sight of the Wine which and render dull, as one may fay, the moft paffes through this Paper, they make good healthful Bodies ; and which alfo, according Conjectures founded upon a long Experience, to fad Experience, and the Writings ofthe concerning the deftinated Tafte, of the Co- Learned, which I have read, breed the Gralour, and the Laftingnefs of the Colour cf the vel, the Gout, and the Stone. Wines they have proved. After having given an Account of the SituThe Commiffioners having made their Pur- ation of the Town of Beaune, and the Hills chafes according to the Orders which they which produce the Wines of Burgundy; after have receiv’d from their Correfpondents and having related the Manner ofcultivating their Merchants, they make Preparations to fend Vineyards, and of making their Wine; of them according to their Orders: And asto the proving it; of chufing it; of buying it, I Price of the Purchafe, they cannot deceive fhall, next, explain the different Qualities of any Perfon without running great Rifques: the’ Wines which thefe divers Hills produce: For if they fhould make thofe which fend for And inorder tothis, I fhall divide what follows thefe Wines pay more for them than they can into three {mall Articles. I fhall treat firft, of buy them for in the Cellar, they would expofe the Forward Wines; fecondly, of the Wines de themfelves to Hanging by an Arrét of the Garde, or for keeping ; and therein I fhall treat Parliament of Burgundy, who have made a of White Wines, and fhall conclude in giving Lawfor the affuring the Fidelity of Commerce Inftruétions for the different Methods that are of thofe Wines ; whichorders, ‘That the Com- to be us'd in bringing the Wines of Burgundy miffioners fhall take one Sol per Livre for as to London, and will advife how the Beaune much as comes to fixty Livres ; and for what Wine may be fent to Londonin Bottles, €xceeds this Sum, theyfhall not cake more than fix Deniers per Livre. 'Thus aprivate The firft Article of the Wines of Primeur, or the Forward Wines. Perfon who fhall receive for fix hundred Livres: of Wine French Money, {hall paythree Livres Wecall that the Wine of Primeur, which to the Commiffioner, for what he fhall have will not keep good more than one Year, or tent above fixty Livres ; and for the five hun- that can be kept but a few Months inthefedred and forty which are over and above, for cond Year, The miffions from private Perfons, go to the Citizens, and fill their Effays of the different Vats which they find in good Cellars ; and with the Tickets that they tie to the Neck of every Ww |
