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Show Russell Jacobs 31 March 2010 MD: Um-hmm. RJ: We had plenty of water. Plenty of. . .lots of fruit, you know, and we knew we were beat. We knew that this was probably it. And we sat up all night. And the Great Roof was ... we had one 5.9 pitch, which was ... didn't seem too difficult to get to the big main crack that heads right up and underneath the Great Roof. And then from the Great Roof. .. the Great Roof was all fixed, all ... I mean, from right underneath the roof all the way to the right is all pins. And it goes out 50 feet, and then that's where the next pitch where we needed the RP's for started from that point. We both thought, well, this is it. We can't go any further without them. We just can't. So, the next morning, uh, it started to get quite windy. And we knew that ... ! mean, we had ... we couldn't really see our anchors. Because you don't follow the same route down. Uh, basically, it's a plumb line from basically, uh, the main dihedral above the Great Roof, it's a pretty straight shot to the summit. Uh, one monster dihedral going up 700 feet. 700 feet. We were two-thirds off the deck. We had made it 2,000 feet. We were at 2,000 feet. And the rest of it was straightforward, uncontrived, one line, no big deal. I mean, it's hard climbing, but, shoot, we had done all the tricky stuff. You know, the King Swing, the Stove Legs, Dolt Hole. We were home free. But we knew we needed those RP's. Both of us knew we needed them. There's no reason for us to go any further. So, we uncorked our haul bag, pulled out all of our canned goods, all of our water, and left them on the ledge for subsequent climbers that would get there and they'd go, "Oh my gosh, there's a store up here and the proprietor has left." And so, the looters will have what they want. So, after lightening our load, I decided I would go down first and find the anchors. After all, I'm the one that messed up. It's my job to get us down. So, I rapped down and doing a big rap like this, 25 |
