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Show Russell Jacobs 31 March 2010 higher than the person who actually is safe-guarding you with the pendulum rope. And you culminate in an alcove called Dolt Hole. MD: Dolt Hole? RJ: Dolt Hole is, um, is, I believe, one of the first partners of Warren Harding. And Warren Harding was the lead climber on The Nose back in 1961. And over the seventeen months of climbing, he had more than one partner and ... of which, one of them was called Dolt, last name Dolt. So, that little alcove, a tiny little hole, is forever noted by anyone who climbs this route as Dolt Hole. So, it was very easy to get to that point. And then, we tightened up the rope, and then, of course, the next two, George would follow suit. He would take a tension traverse over to where he's directly underneath me or in the fall line. He would climb up to me, and then we'd do the same for Ted as well. And the next piece, the next section is 5.11. Um, very, very difficult. It's scary. Uh, basically you're in this wide off width that tapers down 100 or 120 feet above you to nothing. It just ends. To a very tiny, little crack. And I recall that we all sort of took a tum and tried to get up, you know, a little ways on this section. And with very little success. It was just too intimidating for each and every one of us. So, we spent a long time at this point. And we're probably ... maybe six, maybe five ... well, a good 500 feet off the deck. Um, we must have spent probably two hours trying to figure out who had the wherewithal to manage to get through this pitch. And from that point, you had to have another pendulum over to the famous Stove Leg Cracks. Uh, and the Stove Legs go up ... and the reason those have names ... uh, a name called the Stove Legs, is Warren Harding cut legs off of an old washing machine, or a stove rather, and used them to pound into the crack ... because it's so wide ... uh, as protection when he first made the ascent. So, it's 5 |
