| OCR Text |
Show Russell Jacobs 3 March 2010 to understand where they're at and to respect where they're at. Leave no footprint is always a simple motto to follow. People always, earlier on were critical of people using chalk. I think that's not so anymore. I don't know of any that really feel that way. Of course chalk is used to absorb the moisture in your hands and make you able to climb harder climbs. Of course, it leaves a mark on the rock, but the rain takes care of it. As soon as it rains it washes away, so there's no evidence of it. Good routes are repeated and repeated often enough that the chalk is there most of the time on harder climbs and even bouldering problems. But certainly you need to be aware of where you're at, you need to tread lightly with the vegetation around you and you should just be in harmony with your surroundings. There's a lot of discussion with, and it's evolved over the years, as to how we should leave climbing routes. After Warren Harding put in the Wall of the Early Morning Light where he had to bolt, I think he put in 200 expansion bolts to bridge fissures and crack systems to continue the route to the summit. Then after I think a season or so, I think it was Yvon Chouinard and Tom Frost and maybe even Royal Robbins went up and chopped about 50 off! But now they've conceded to the fact that what they did was wrong. What they did was wrong. Certainly the evolution of cam units has eliminated the use of pitons, where every time you put a piton in the wall, in the crack and knock it back out, you make a larger hole. A lot of the routes on El Capitan are pin scarred. But now because of the use of cam units, that doesn't happen anymore. It's what you call clean climbing. For the environment, that's good. MD: The conversation I had with somebody earlier this week, he was saying that it's not even putting bolts in walls, putting fixed protection in walls for sport routes that's 4 |
