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Show Russell Jacobs 31 March 2010 safer way to climb these two cracks, in that you would use two ropes and, uh, you would use the first one to get to your high point from the first crack, then you could actually, uh, lower down and to the right to the second one, and then transfer on to a second rope. And that would have worked just fine, but of course, I didn't want to disturb George. He was pretty focused and, uh, we just let him go. But if I was to do that pitch again, I would have done it that way. It would have been much safer. But George is a good climber, and he's pretty solid, and he managed to get up to the second ... the second .. . the top of the second pitch. And then I took the third. I know, I must have taken the third. And this is all .. .I remember, all fixed. I mean, there were pins everywhere, and it was kind of, uh, you know you had to traverse as you got up a ways to the right over onto Sickle Ledge. It wasn't a very long pitch. And then, you're on this big, long ledge. Uh, lots of room. You can walk on it. I've walked on it before with no ropes. It's, uh .. .people sleep on it from time to time. And from that point, we dropped lines and, uh, I think it took at least 300 feet to the deck, and left our ropes there. Uh, went back .. .I think we spent maybe four hours fixing those three pitches, not more. And, uh, got all of our equipment ready. And the next morning, we hauled our haul bags over and, uh, started hauling them up to Sickle Ledge. And then from there, you've gotta climb a 5.9 pitch, which is the top of the sickle. It's the blade actually. Uh, to a point where you are lowered down and then you gotta run it, sort of a pendulum, sort of a running pendulum, to another weakness, or a very shallow left-facing dihedral. As you climb it .. .it's very easy. It's, you know, there's no reason to put any protection in it. And you wouldn't want to anyway, if you didn't have to, because what you want to do is you want to climb 4 |
