UTAH HISTORICAL QUATERLY VOL I - VI

Extracts from the journal of Henry W. Bigler

JOURNAL EXTRACTS OP HENRY W. BIGLER 87 by Crouch and Louder and renamed the Miner, which was suc­cessively edited by James N. Louder, Scipio A. Kenner, and Edward and John Pike.8 With these few notes, the available record of the Utah coun­try press in the early days may be said to end. The record as it stands is admittedly faulty, and corrections and additions are much to be desired. Particularly desired is information about the old-time printers and editors. Also welcome would be notes of copies of old Utah country newspapers of the seventies and ear­lier. It is suggested that these notes should contain not only the dates of the papers, but also their volume and serial numbers and mention of the names of the publishers. EXTRACTS FROM THE JOURNAL OF HENRY W. BIGLER* Wed. 11th. We traveled about 28 miles, across a dry plain, suffering much with heat and thirst, to a river. I thought I would die for want of water before we reached the river. Many did give out by the way and were only refreshed by sending them full canteens of water. Thurs. 12th. Camp laid by while Captain Everett and a few pioneers went up the river to examine the route and to look for Walker's Pass, leading over the mountains. Fri. 13th. To-day we moved camp up the river ten miles, where we met Captain Everett and men who reported that they found nothing like a pass and that we could not cross the moun­tains with our pack animals. A meeting was immediately called at which it was decided that we take Fremont's route and go by way of Sutter's Fort, for we had no good map for the one we had brought from Los Angeles did not have the rivers marked in it, nor the names of streams, and to tell the truth we do not know where we are, only that we are somewhere in the moun­tains. Sat. 14th. The next morning we retraced our steps a few miles and crossed the river about 75 yards wide and made an early camp. Here we were visited by Indians. We told them we were their friends and did not wish to hurt them. They told us we could lie down in peace and sleep. They sang and danced in their way, which to us was quite amusing. 'Mark A. Pendleton, "Memories of Silver Reef," Utah Historical Quarterly, vol. 3, no. 4, October, 1930, pp. 99-118, at p. 108. •Continued from the Quarterly for April, 1932. 88 THE UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY Wed. 18th. We camped on a beautiful river. The country is rich and fertile, and abounds with game of various kinds. Wolves are so tame they would not run from us, but would suffer us to pass within a few yards of them while they would either stand and look at us or lie down in the grass as if to hide from our view. But they sometimes gave us trouble by cutting our ani­mals loose at night when staked out with rawhide ropes. They are great thieves and would steal the meat out of our camp ket­tles at night or from under the pillows upon which we slept. I have had my bridle drawn away from under my head by a thieving coyote. Fri. 20th. Traveled past where Indians raised corn and melons. We bought roasting ears and melons, and made an early camp on the Merced River. Several of our men bathed them­selves. The Indians told us of some Americans living a few miles on the river below us. We are of the opinion they are some of our people, and the next morning Brother Andrew Lytle and two brethren set out to visit them and see who they are. Sat. 21st. Short days travel. This evening a meeting of the camp was called to take in consideration what to do for the few in camp that had not an outfit to last them to where we may find the main body of the Church. It was decided to send four men to Sutter's Fort to see if provisions and animals could be purchased, and the price, etc. Sun. 22nd. Made twenty miles. At noon we came where In­dians were living, of whom we got some melons and green corn. Mon. 23rd. Road very bad, made only a few miles. Tues. 24th. Made about 18 miles when we came to a set­tlement of whites, to me it looked good to see them, their cows, chickens and hogs, and they had raised a fine crop of wheat, it was already threshed out and in a big pile ready for the sack. The people here told us that the Twelve Apostles with a num­ber of pioneers had reached Salt Lake Valley and that five hun­dred wagons were close behind. This to us was glorious news and the first we had heard definitely concerning the location of the Church. Here we were overtaken by Brother Lytle and his men, who told us that the people he went to see were our brethren. Wed. 25th. Made 20 miles to the American River where we camped about a mile and a half above Sutter's Fort. Captain Everett visited Sutter's Fort, found that unbolted flour could be had for 8 dollars per hundred, and our animals shod at the rate of one dollar per shoe, many of our animals JOURNAL EXTRACTS OF HENRY W. BIGLER 89 were tender footed. It seems that Mr. Sutter is a man of busi­ness. He offers to pay from $25 to $40 a month and some of our men have concluded to remain and go to work for Sutter until next Spring. Thurs. 26th. Remained in camp, having several animals shod. Fri. 27th. Pioneers proceed, leaving the main body of the camp to follow. Sat. 28th. To-day is my birthday. I am 32 years old. I am grateful to an all wise Providence that my health is good, that I am on my way home and that everything is as well with me as it is. To-day we traveled till 2 p. m. and camped at Johnson's settlement on Bear Creek. Sun. 29th. Made an early camp and had a prayer meeting. Mon. 30th. Thunder and a little rain. Made 15 miles. Wed. Sept. 1st. To-day noon, Captain Everett went ahead to see what the road is like, while gone we found a patch of nice ripe berries, as I afterward learned were Thimble berries, they afforded us a good treat as there was an abundance of them. In a little while Captain Everett returned, said the road was rocky and bad, but there was a nice little valley only a short distance ahead where there was good camping and feed for our animals, to this point we made. Here we find pea vines high as a man's head with great roads through them made by bears. Near our camp are two wagons left by emigrants. We were told at Sutter's Fort that a company of 90 emigrants were overtaken in a snow-storm last fall while crossing the mountains. The snow fell ten feet deep and fifty of them perished through starvation and otherwise. This valley is surrounded by high mountains, densely covered with pine timber. The trunks of many of the trees are ten feet in diameter and more than two hundred feet high. Thurs. Sept. 2nd. Remained in camp to let our animals rest and to feed on pea vines. I took my gun and went to hunt game but soon had to give it up on account of rocks and bad traveling, returned to camp barely escaping a shower of rain. Fri. 3rd. To-day we crossed a very high mountain and then through a little valley where one of the men shot at a deer. We passed a broken-down wagon, in the box were tin pans and some clothing, this seemed to tell us there were no Indians around. 'In the evening we camped on a creek where we found a grave. One the headboard was the name of Smith, died Oct. 7th., 1846. Our camp was surrounded by high mountains covered with a heavy forest of pine, balsam and redwood timber so cerise and luxuriant as to cause the whole surroundings to have a dark 90 THE UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY and dismal appearance, and I though if there was any truth in the existence of hobgoblins, they surely lived in these mountains. I am told that Fremont estimates these mountains to be 9338 feet above the level of the sea. Sat. 4th. By 7 a. m. we broke camp, traveled up a lofty moun­tain and around high peaks. We passed between 2 small lakes or ponds near each other, that have no outlet and some of the boys visited them and say they are full of fish. At noon we camped by one of the coldest springs of water I ever saw. Here we have plenty of green grass, while at no great dis­tance on the side of the mountain are great banks of snow, while in the valleys may be found ripe fruit. Sunday, 5th. To-day we passed over some banks of snow more than two feet deep and reached the summit of the main chain of the Sierra Nevada mountains, where we found a wind­lass that emigrants had made to haul their wagons up over a very steep ascent from the east side. Passing down towards the Truckee River a few miles, we came to a shanty where we found the skeletons of human beings, skull bones, ribs and backbones hanging together. They seemed to have been burned, the shanty was partly burned. We found what we took to be a woman's hand, it was nearly whole, it had partly been burned, the little finger was not burnt but the flesh on it was completely dried. Some of our party believed Indians were the cause of this dis­aster, but the most of us do not think so, from the fact we had passed to-day several broken-down wagons containing boxes and trunks of clothing, though now spoiled, laying around on the ground, which we believe would not have been left if Indians had perpetrated this horrible deed. About the cabin and near by stood stumps of trees, ten and fifteen feet high, showing how deep the snow had been when the trees were cut down. No doubt they were cut down for fuel to keep the occupants of the shanty from freezing. Leaving this horrible place we proceeded a few miles and camped. Monday, 6th. At 7 a. m. we broke camp and had not pro­ceeded far when we met Sam Brannan who had been up to Salt Lake. He told us that Captain Brown was just behind with his detachment on his way to Monterey, to get their discharge and that the Captain had a package of letters and an epistle from President Young and the Twelve Apostles to the boys of the bat­talion, as all were anxious to hear the news. As there was poor camping at hand we at once returned to the place we had just left, to await the arrival of those left at Sutter's Fort and by that time Captain Brown would be up, when JOURNAL EXTRACTS OF HENRY W. BIGLER 91 all would be together to share the news from the Church and from friends. Brannan halted an hour to let his animals feed and to take a little refreshment himself. He and Captain Brown had left Salt Lake to go there, but this morning they had a falling out and words passed between them so sharply that Brannan left and proceeded alone on his journey homeward. He gave a fine ac­count of the Salt Lake country but thought it no place to live, as by all accounts by mountaineers, nothing would grow there and he believed the Church would have to come to California. Tues. 7th. This afternoon the rear of our company got up and Captain Brown had already arrived when nearly every man re­ceived a letter from his family or from a friend and truly we had a time of rejoicing in the mountains although a few had news of sadness, they had either lost a dear wife or child or an affection­ate parent. Captain Brown then read the epistle to the battalion which was for all who had no families and those who had, that unless they had plenty of provisions with them that it would be wisdom for all such to turn back to California and go to work, fit them­selves out and come on to Salt Lake the next Spring, for at Salt Lake there was but little provisions and they had already sent out a hunting party to kill buffalo, and provisions were scarce at Fort Hall and very high. I received a letter from George A. Smith who says that my Sister Emaline and husband are there having arrived on the 29th of July in Captains detachment and that President Young with a company of 143 pioneers arrived in the great basin on July 24th. Since then they had been busy plowing and planting seeds and potatoes, and that a number of brethren were at work making adobies for building houses. The whole face of the country was covered with large black crickets, that Salt Lake Valley was surrounded by high mountains. Some of the peaks were capped with snow and that there were nice streams of water, so situated as to be easily made to irrigate the land. Provisions were scarce and the Saints were living on half rations. The valley would be organized into a Stake of Zion and that his father John Smith appointed to preside and that President Young and the Twelve would soon return to winter quarters. To-day while some of our boys were out hunting they report that they found a shanty and several dead human bodies, some of them were whole and completely dried, others cut up, men and women with their legs cut off, their ribs sawed from their bodies and their skulls sawed open and their brains taken out. From the best information we have, these were a company of 92 THE UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY Missourians emigrating to California and had disagreed among themselves and split up into different companies. The strongest moved forward, leaving the weak behind with but little pro­visions and a bed of snow fell so deep as to prevent travel, and when help from the settlements reached them, those who were alive had been living on the dead, children had eaten of their parents. I expect if the truth were known, that the parents let their children have the provisions while themselves perished with hunger. Wed. 8th. This morning about 30 of us gave our brethren the parting hand with blessings on each others heads. They to continue their journey up to Salt Lake and we to return to Cali­fornia. We divided provisions, scarcely keeping enough to last to the settlements, 150 miles distant. It was hard parting, but we knew it was best to obey the Servants of God. It was stated that the Lord would be with us, and one dollar earned and brought to Salt Lake would be worth five times its value. On the 11th. we passed a little grave. It had been opened by wild beasts, the box torn open and the little bed and pillow of feathers strewn all around and to one side lay the skull of the child, it moved me with pity at the sight. Near the place was another grave and on the headboard the name, Ann West, aged 62 years. We passed Brother Henry Hoyt's grave. He was buried so shallow that the air could get to his remains. He was in the rear of our company and the pioneers being two days in advance had all the tools, and the men had nothing to dig his grave but a hatchet or two. He was buried high up on the side of a moun­tain, under a low spreading oak. He was a good man and it may be said he died as a martyr in the cause of his country. Sunday, 12th. We reached Johnson's settlement, where we bought a little flour and a few peas. Tues. 14th. At 1 p. m. we reached our old camp-ground near Sutter's Fort. After eating dinner, three of the brethren called on Captain Sutter, to learn what the chances were for getting employment. When they returned in the evening they reported that they saw Mr. Sutter and had a talk with him and learned that Sutter wanted to build a mill, a race dug about 3 miles long and mill timbers gotten out. He was willing to hire all of us, either by the month or by the job, and that he would pay $25 per month or \2y2 cents per yard for digging the race, he would pay part in cash and part in trade. He would furnish tools, teams and provisions, and we to do our own cooking. We talked the matter up around our camp-fire and concluded to take the offer. JOURNAL EXTRACTS OF HENRY W. BIGLER 93 Wed. 15th. This morning we closed the bargain. He said our animals could run with his band of horses, free of charge and that they would be driven up by his vaquero (horse herder) every evening and corralled. This we take as being very kind in Mr. Sutter. In the afternoon we moved on to the ground where the work is to be done, six miles east of Sutter's Fort, where we have a very good adobie house to quarter in. Friday, 17th. This morning all hands went to work on the ditch, except our cooks, having plows, scrapers and oxen, some of them never having seen a white man, nothing but a greaser Indian. We also had picks, shovels and spades. At evening each man had earned $1.50, our hands being ten­der, they became very sore. Soon some of the men were taken with chills and fever, and some with scurvy. Mon. 27th. While at dinner to-day a man dressed in buck­skins entered our quarters and said Captain Sutter wanted 4 men from our company to go up into the mountains about 30 miles to help build a sawmill on the South fork of the American River. He said he and Sutter were in copartnership in building the mill, and that he had been up there with a few hands and had done some work, but some of the men up there were expect­ing to leave soon, hence they wanted more help. In the afternoon myself and three others started with the man, whose name we learned is James W. Marshall, also a man by the name of Charles Bennett, late from Oregon. Marshall had an ox team and wagon loaded with provisions and a few tools. Wed. 29th. At dusk we arrived at the mill site, here we find several of our Mormon brethren who had stopped at Sutters at the time we passed there in August. To me the country looks wild and lonesome. We are sur­rounded by high mountains, more or less covered with a heavy growth of timber, pines, balsam, redwood, pinion pine and oak timber. The place is infested with wolves, grizzly bears and Indians. Marshall and his men had built a double log cabin about one fourth of a mile from where the mill is to be erected. In one part of the house lives a family by the name of Peter L. Weimer, whose wife is to do the cooking for the mill hands. Mon. October 4th. Last night all hands were aroused by the cry of our tame Indians, "Marlohinty, Marlohinty," meaning there were bad Indians around, all was bustle, men began to hunt up their guns, molding bullets and set out a guard, as before we had not thought of danger, but we could see nor hear anything. 94i THE UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY Tues. Oct. 5th. Last night we were awakened again by the same cry. This time some of our men saw one but the Indians kept themselves in the dark and behind trees. We called to them but they would not speak. There are only ten of us men and only 4 guns for we Mormon boys had left our muskets below. This was the last time we were disturbed, the enemy finding out perhaps that we had guns instead of bows and arrows to defend ourselves. Sat. Nov. 6th. Went to look for my horse, having a gun with me I shot a blacktailed deer. I have spent much of my time in hunting, for which Marshall pays the same wages as for working on the mill, for it sometimes happened that Sutter neglected to send up provisions to the mill when we would be on short ra­tions. At such times Marshall detailed me to be hunter as deer was plentiful. He owned a good rifle and this I used, taking with me one of the tame Indians to help carry in the venison. This suited me full as well as using an ax or shovel about the mill for I was paid just the same. Sat. Dec. 25th. Christmas day. Several of us went to the top of a high mountain across the creek opposite from the mill and diverted ourselves in rolling large stones down the mountain, it was fun to see them run and the distance they jumped. We sur­prised a number of deer who made off in double quick time. January, 1848 Sat. Jan. 1st. We worked on the dam, building it with brush, with the butts down stream. Sun. 23rd. This day myself and 4 others of the boys moved into a shanty near the mill, we had built last week, to do our own cooking, having the privilege from Marshall to do so as Mrs. Weimer was so partial in her cooking, always keeping back all the best parts of the victuals for favorites who eat at the second table. Not only that but on the morning of Christmas, she took offense because it happened that all the boys failed to come at her first call to breakfast and threatened not to give us any breakfast, and even swore about it so I made the following rhymes. On Christmas morn in bed she swore That she would cook for us no more, Unless we'd come at the first call, For I am mistress of you all. And we have revolted from under her government, and this Mr. JOURNAL EXTRACTS OF HENRY W. BIGLER 95 Marshall did not blame us for he had discovered the same thing himself. Monday, 24th. This day some kind of metal that looks like gold was found in the tail race. Sunday, 30th. Our metal has been tried and proves to be gold. It is thought to be rich. We have picked up more than a hundred dollars worth last week. Sun. Feb. 6th. I and one of the men, a Mr. Barger, went over the creek opposite the sawmill to look for gold where we found a few dollars worth. We found it in the seams and cracks of the granite rock, cropping out of the bank near the creek. Sat. 12th. This afternoon I did not work. I borrowed Brown's gun saying I would go hunting down the creek for ducks, but in reality to prospect for gold, for it was my belief it could be found in other places besides in the tail race. Half a mile below the sawmill I noticed some bare rocks on the other side of the creek, of the same kind as in the tail race, that seemed to say gold was there. I took off my shirt and pants, waded over and sure enough it was there. I picked up one dol­lar and 50 cents worth lieing on the bare rocks and in the seams. I said nothing about the find to anybody. Sunday, 13th. To-day is rainy so that no work was done about the mill. I spent all forenoon mending my pants. In the afternoon I went to my gold mine and picked up sev­en dollars worth. Sunday, 20th. Went to my gold mine and picked up about seventeen dollars worth. Monday, 21st. Cloudy and cool. To-day Mr. Marshall sowed about three acres of peas and I harrowed them in with his oxen. Wild flowers in abundance. Tues. 22nd. Last night it snowed and this morning the ground is white. It was intended to have rasied the upper frame of the sawmill to-day, but Marshall said it would be so slippery and dangerous that we would not work. I said to Mr. Brown, if he would loan me his gun, I would go hunting, his reply was, "there she is, take her," all thinking I had started to hunt deer. Soon as I was out of sight I made a bee line to my gold mine and as usual took off my clothes and waded over, the creek had raised and the water cold, deep and swift as a milltail, rough and rocky, and it was all I could do to keep my feet. When I got over I found my feet extremely cold, I tried to catch fire from my gun but in wading she had got wet, I then tried to strike fire but my hands were so benumbed with 96 THE UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY cold, I could not hold my flint and steel. I was obliged to jump and run and dance over the rocks and while doing so I saw every now and then a yellow piece staring me in the face, but was too Cold to stop and pick them up. At last I got warmed up and went to work, having nothing to work with but my pocket-knife. The weather had moderated and a mist of rain had set in and the snow had disappeared. I searched closely and at last I picked up out of the sand near the creek a nugget round like a bullet, this so excited me that I felt as though I was finding a fortune. It proved to be worth about six dollars. I sat all bent over for hours, picking up the little valuable particles when all at once I could not see and as I arose to my feet I yelled with pain. I reeled and staggered and it seemed to me my back was broken, but after a few severe groans and grunts I was at ease. Night had set in and I made my way up the creek, over rocks and through brush until arriving at our mill dam when I called for Brown who came and set me over on the raft, 3 dry pine logs pinned together, and on reaching the shanty the boys began to question me, wanting to know what luck, where my game was and why out so late, and why I did not cross at the dam that morning, etc. They had at last suspected something. I called for the scales and at the same time pulling out one corner of my shirttail in which I had tied up my gold, all were staring with fixed eyes in silence and the scales produced and weighed by Stevens, who pronounced my yellow game to be worth $22 and 50 cents. The secret now being out I told them all about my dis­covery. We had already made a light pair of wooden scales, using a silver dollar for an ounce weight worth 16 dollars and half dollar equal in value to eight dollars, and a quarter dollar in weight was worth four in gold. All hands came very near leaving off work to turn our atten­tion to hunting gold, but on thinking it over we thought it a pity to do so before the mill was completed and another thing we thought of was the uncertainty of doing any better than we were doing, for we were getting fair wages and we believed our pay was sure while if we left off work we might lose more in the long run than we would make. Sunday, 27th. I took the boys to my gold mine, but the water had raised so high that the spot where I had found it so plentiful on the 22nd., was all under water, however we five found $33. This evening three of the boys from below arrived at our shanty, they having heard through a letter I had written to my messmates while in the battalion, that we had found gold here at the sawmill; this letter had been written in a confidential way and to say nothing about it, these men had been told of the dis- JOURNAL EXTRACTS OF HENRY W. BIGLER 97 covery in a secret way and had come up to see for themselves and it happened that Mr. Marshall was in and sat till a late hour talking, being in fine humor, as he most always was, and very entertaining. When about to leave for his own quarters on the hill a quarter of a mile away, one of the men, Mr. Hudson asked the privilege of prospecting in the tail race which was readily granted, and the next moring the 3 men, Sidney Willis, Wilford Hudson and Levi Fifield went into the race, when in a little while Hudson with his butcher knife picked out a nugget worth about six dollars. They tarried with us a day or two and as they returned they prospected all along the creek and at one place they found a few particles at a place afterwards called Mormon Island, which eventually did prove to be one of the richest finds in California. Sat. March 11th. This afternoon we started to saw, but it cuts slow, there being so much back water in the race, and the race has got to be dug deeper to give more fall. The starting of the saw is to the Indians a great curiosity to them and the In­dian who told Brown he lied, when told we were making a thing that would saw by its self, laid down on his belly for two hours, watching the same cutting boards, when at last he got up and said, "it was bueno," meaning it was good and wanted to learn to be a sawyer, as before he could.not conceive how a saw could run without a man at one end of it. Sunday, March 12th. The saw ran all day and all the Indians in the country are here to see the great curiosity and for all I know this is the first sawmill built in California. Sunday, 19th. All hands hunted for gold. I was the luckiest one, I found $31. All last week we were busy in digging the tail race deeper and the sawing is much better. Sunday, 26th. All hands hunted for gold. I found six dollars worth. All last week I was set to teaching some Indians how to use an ax to cut down trees for some logs. They were anxious to learn but very awkward and every now and then cut them­selves with the ax, a foot or leg, some awful gashes, and look at me in a wistful way as if I could prevent it. I felt sorry for them. Sunday, April 2nd., 1848. I prospected and found a new place where I got nearly two ounces of the pure stuff, an ounce of gold dust is reckoned to be worth sixteen dollars in Silver. Saying so much about gold, I will here tell how it was found. The names of the men at work at the sawmill were Alexander Stevens, James S. Brown, James Barger, William Johnston, Azariah Smith and myself, all of the Mormon battalion and be­sides us were James W. Marshall, Peter L. Weimer, Charles 98 THE UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY Bennett and William Scott. Some Indians under the superin­tendence of Mr. Weimer, worked in the race, and every after­noon Marshall went to see how they were getting along. They made slow progress because they had struck the bed rock, it was of granite and on Monday, in the afternoon of the 24th of Jan­uary when he went down to see how they were making it, his eye caught the glitter of something that lay on the bed rock a few inches under water. He sent a young Indian to Brown who was at work in the mill yard whip-sawing, to send him a plate. Brown was the top sawyer. He jumped down from the sawpit, remarking I wonder what Marshall wants with a plate and walked to our shanty, gave the redskin a tin plate and about the time we were leaving off work for the day, Marshall came up from the race and said he believed he had found a gold mine. Some of the boys remarked that they feared there was no such good luck. Nothing more was said and Marshall went on to his own quarters, but just before we went to bed, Marshall came in and said he believed he had found a gold mine near the lower end of the race, and said he had tried to melt some of the parti­cles but could not. Before leaving us he said, "Brown, I want you and Bigler, in the morning, to shut down the head gate, throw in some saw­dust, rotten leaves and dirt, make all tight and to-morrow I'll see what there is there," and accordingly the next morning, we did as directed. We, while doing so, saw Marshall pass through the mill yard and so on down the tail race. Brown and I went into breakfast, after which we went to work in the mill yard. I was busy preparing to put a blast of powder into a boulder that lay in the tail race near where the flutter-wheel was, when Mr. Marshall came up bareheaded with a broad smile, carrying in his arms his old slouch white hat and said, "Boys, I believe I have found a gold mine," at the same time putting his hat on the work bench that stood in the mill yard. In an instant all hands gathered around and sure enough in the top of his hat crown, the crown knocked in a little, lay the pure stuff. How much, I know not, perhaps an ounce. The particles were from the size of small grains, up to the size of grains of wheat, the most however was in thin scales, the coarse was in all shapes. Azariah Smith took from his pocket a five dollar gold coin and we compared the two metals. We could plainly see the dif­ference which we considered was due to the alloy in the coin. All were satisfied that it was the pure virgin gold, although none of us had ever seen gold in its natural state before. All hands were invited by Marshall to accompany him to the spot JOURNAL EXTRACTS OF HENRY W. BIGLER 99 where he had found it, where we found a few more particles in the seams and cracks of the base rock. Marshall told us to keep the find as a secret until we found how extensive it was. Three or four days afterward we began to be in want of pro­visions, for Sutter had neglected to send up supplies. Marshall said he would go down to the fort and see what was the matter, and take the gold and have it tested. If I remember right, he was gone four days and when he returned, and was asked what it was, he said, "Oh boys, it is the pure stuff," saying, "I and the old Cap (meaning Sutter) locked ourselves up in a room and was half a day trying it, and the regulars down there wondered what in hell was up and surmised I had found a quicksilver mine, for you see there is a quicksilver mine found by a woman down towards Monterey. But we let them sweat. We found that the gold agreed with the encyclopedia, we then applied "aqua fortis and it had nothing to do with it. We then weighed it in water by balancing the dust against silver on a pair of scales held in the air. We let the scales down and when it came in contact with the water, by G-d the gold went down and the silver up, motioned it out with his hands, and that told the story that it was the pure stuff." He said Sutter would be up in a few days to see for himself, and how the work on the mill was progressing, etc. A few evenings after this Marshall came into our shanty and said Sutter had arrived and that he was up at the other house. "Now boys," said he, "we have all got a little gold, I motion we give Henry some gold and in the morning when you shut off the water, let him go down and sprinkle it all over the base rock, not letting on to the old gentleman, and it will so excite him that he will set out his bottle and treat, for he always carries his bottle with him." This caused a hearty laugh. So early the next morning I took down the gold dust and sprinkled it over the base rock, and then went into breakfast. Just as we were finishing breakfast we saw the old gentle­man coming, hobbling along with his cane, a well dressed old gentleman, Mr. Marshall on one side and Mr. Weimer on the other. As they neared our shanty we went out and met them. After shaking hands and passing the common salutations, all were invited to go along and have a general time prospecting, but at this juncture one of Weimer's little boys ran past us, crawling into the tail race, where he picked up nearly every particle and came running back, almost out of breath, to meet us, reaching out his hands, exclaiming, "See here what I have got," having in his hand, for aught I know, fifty dollars or more. We dared not say a word, lest the joke be turned and we lose our 100 THE UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY expected treat and as soon as Sutter saw what the boy had, he thrust his cane into the ground, saying, "By Joe, it is rich." All hands went into the race and spent an hour prospecting, and the Captain had the pleasure of picking up a few particles the boy had overlooked. I advised Marshall to marry the woman who had found the quicksilver mine if she was like himself, not married, saying to him, "if this is what the tail turns out, I wonder what the head will do?" The next move of Sutter and Marshall was to call in the In­dians, the owners of the land, leased a large scope of land, ten or twelve miles square, for three years, for which they paid some shirts and handkerchiefs, a few knives, some meat, unbolted flour and peas, and promising to pay the Indians so much every year until the lease expired. Afterwards they sent Charles Bennett to Monterey to see Governor Mason, to have the land secured to them as mill priv­ileges, pasturage and mineral privileges, as it bore strong indi­cations of silver and lead, saying nothing about gold. But His Excellency told Mr. Bennett, that as California affairs were still unsettled between Mexico and our Government, he could do nothing for them. Friday, April 7th. Stevens, Brown and myself saddled our horses and started to See Captain Sutter, to have a settlement, get our pay and prepare for going home, up to Salt Lake. We got a late start in the afternoon, went about 12 miles and camped in the mountains. Sat. 8th. In the afternoon we arrived where our brethren were at work on Sutter's flour mill. Here we were told that Willis and Hudson and a few of the boys had gone up the river to hunt gold, at the place Hudson and Willis had found a few particles at the time they were returning from the sawmill. Monday, Sept. 25th. We reached Ogden City. Here lives Captain James Brown and a few Saints, who bid us welcome, and let us have all the melons and young corn we wanted, which to us was a treat. Tues. 26th. We lay by to repair wagons that broke down yesterday. Everybody in camp busy washing, shaving, cutting hair, changing clothes, etc. Some of the camp will remain here as they have friends and relatives living here, while the rest of us will proceed to Salt Lake City. JOURNAL EXTRACTS OF HENRY W. BIGLER 101 We arrived in Salt Lake City on Thursday the 28th, early in the afternoon and were received with open arms by friends and dear relatives, and the Saints in general. Here I find my Sister and babe, her husband has gone to the frontiers after his Mother and family. I find in Great Salt Lake City a city lot reserved for me by the kindness of Brother George A. Smith, situated in the 17th ward, not far west of the Temple lot, a goodly laid out portion of the city is a Buckwheat patch and the Saints living in forts. 1 purchased dobies and built a house on my lot, 15 by 17 feet, one room in which I took my Sister and babe and moved into it, and kept them until her husband returned in July, 1849. I arrived in Salt Lake City with the following outfit: 1 yoke of oxen, share in 2 wagons, 2 cows with calves, 1 horse, 1 mare and colt, 1 bolt of brown cotton, 2 bolts of bleached cotton, 18 yards of janes, 1 hat, coat and vest, 2 yards and a quarter of cassimere, 1 yard of velvet, 4 pairs shoes, 9 pairs socks, 1 silk red sash, \2y2 yards of Irish linen, 3 yards and a half of striped cloth, 1 water pail, several handkerchiefs, 1 pair of suspenders, 2 bottles of saleratus, 1 ax, 1 shovel, 1 gross of buttons, besides thread and needles, 2 bars of soap, a hair comb, 300 pounds of flour, 32 pounds of coffee, 1 pound of tea, 32 pounds sugar, 2 dozen fish-hooks, 1 yard and a half of broadcloth, 3 yards of sacking, 2 dollars worth of shirt buttons and a little gold dust. I will state that soon after the gold was found in California everything went up to high prices and the articles I got were just before the rise. Great Salt Lake City is laid out in square blocks of ten acres, each block containing 8 city lots of one acre and a quarter to each city lot, and the streets 8 rods wide, running at right angles. During this year there were 1400 Saints emigrated to Utah. Great Salt Lake City, Utah Territory, 1849 Sun. Oct. 7th. This evening Father John Smith sent for me. I went and he told me that Brother Brigham had counseled him, that as he had been kicked and cuffed about and finally drove out of the United States because he worshipped God ac­cording to the dictates of his own conscience and has become poor, to fit out some person and send to the gold mines to seek for some of the treasures of the earth and to make himself com­fortable in his'declining years. He has seen fit to call on me to go and to go with Charles C. Rich and others who are on the eve of leaving for California. 102 THE UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY Mon. 8th. Making preparations to leave. It fills me with sor­row to think of leaving, it was with considerable struggle with my feelings that I consented to go for Father Smith, for I am attached to this place and to these people, for they are my brethren and my friends. Tues. 9th. To-day I settled up all my accounts, paid my debts, sold my wheat and a few boards to Brother Staves. Wed. 10th. This morning I took some washing to be done, to Sister Partridge, after which I went down to the threshing floor, to get a little wheat, I had been thrashing on shares. Also went to get some cooking utensils, my frying pan was missing, this rather aggravated me. Thurs. 11th. Last evening Father Smith sent for me. I went and he told me that he wanted to bless me, he did so, and also Brother James Keeler, who is going to the gold mines for Thom­as Callister, Father Smith's son-in-law. We both go in one wagon and about p. m. we were ready to start. I told Brother Keeler to call by my house with the wagon where I would join him. I wrote a note and stuck it on the inside of my door for my brother-in-law to take charge of some clothing I had left in a sack. At this moment I experienced what I shall not attempt to describe. I walked back and forth across my floor and my feelings were spent in a complete shower of tears, everything I looked upon seemed to sympathize with me and say, go in peace, only be faithful and all will be right. I heard a rattling and looked up and saw the wagon coming. I hastened to the curtains of my window and wiped away every tear and went out to the wagon, when Brother Keeler requested me to get in. I refused, and said I wanted to call at the tinshop to buy a can­teen for which I paid six bits and two bits for a quart cup. Thousands from the States have passed through this city the present season, on their way to California to seek their fortunes. It seems that the news of the discovery of gold has reached every nook and corner of the United States and has set the world, as it were, all in motion and on the move for gold. I got in the wagon and we drove to Brother Hakes, ten miles on Cottonwood. We called at Brother Chipmans and purchased some butter and two fresh loaves of nice .wheat bread, also a little tin bucket to carry our butter in. Fri. 12th. This morning we were detained a little in getting something made at the blacksmith shop. This morning one of Father Smith's horses is sick, supposed to have the belly-ache, and to carry out Father Smith's blessings' we bought a mare of JOURNAL EXTRACTS OF HENRY W. BIGLER 103 Brother Hakes, paid $20 down and gave our note for $100 with interest on our return. At 10 a. m. was on the move, went about 13 miles and camped near the banks of the Jordan. Sat. 13th. Rained like sam hill in the night and the tops of the mountains are white with snow that fell in the night, but it soon cleared up. In the afternoon we arrived at the Utah settlement, here we expect to stay a day or so for company. Sun. 14th. Last night Brother Whittle arrived and to-day a lot of packers. This evening the company held a meeting and appointed Flake to be our Captain until we overtake Brother Rich. Mon. 15th. Clear. At 9 a. m. all hands were on the march, went a half a mile when one of the Captain's mules became frightened at some Indians, he ran and threw off his pack, this detained us a short time. Made to-day about 22 miles, grass and water plenty. The intention is to go the south route, following the old Spanish trail and so on through the Cajon Pass in the Sierra Nevada mountains. Tues. 16th. Last night I dreamed that I was not going to California for gold but was going to the Islands on a mission to preach the gospel. Came about 20 miles and camped. Wed. 17th. Made about 25 miles. Thur. 18th. Clear. Made about 25 miles and encamped by a spring. There is a beautiful looking valley lying west about half a mile from our camp. To-night I stand guard. Fri. 19th. Made an early camp. Sat. 20th. This morning I found part of a note left by Brother Rich, dated the 16th. instant, saying all was well, the particulars were gone, supposed to have been destroyed by some emigrants or mean gentiles in advance. Made about 20 miles and camped. Here we overtook a gentile by the name of Smith who was Captain of 20 men on packs, bound for the California gold mines. Here Brother Henry Rollins was taken violently sick, Captain Flake, Brother Joseph Cain and myself laid hands on him, he soon was easy. Sun. 21st. Clear and pretty. By 9 a. m. all hands were on the march, making about 25 or 30 miles. Mon. 22nd. Reached Beaver creek. Here we find where Brother Rich and company had camped night before last, we also found a note from Brother Rich directing us to keep down the creek as the road forked at this place, leaving the Spanish 104 THE UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY trail. We also learn from the note that the rodeometer makes the distance from Salt Lake to this place 208 miles, Tue. 23rd. A little after sunrise we were again on the march and soon met Brother Rich and a company of gold diggers, they had been ahead and found no water. All hands turned back to the creek and went into camp, in a few minutes Brother Rich, James Brown and Ponroy rode up to our camp, we were glad to see them. Here is a train of 113 wagons of gold diggers, besides about 50 on packs, all bound for the gold mines, but as no water was found ahead of us, the conclusion is to turn back up the Beaver creek and continue on the Spanish trail. This train of 113 wagons had hired Captain Hunt to pilot them through to California, but they had a company of doctors and lawyers, and when they reached Beaver creek, they called a council to have Captain Hunt make a cut-off from the fact that he had told them a cut-off could be made, but at the same time he had never traveled it, but they got it in their heads that Hunt could find the route and take them through. He told them they must go on their own responsibility for he had never traveled it. He had been ahead of this company 40 miles and found no water. Thur. 25th. It is thought best for Brother Keeler and me to leave our wagon and go on packs, so we spent the day making pack-saddles. Fri. 26th. Several articles were cached. Sat. 27th. Made to-day by the rodeometer 23 miles. Sun. 28th. This morning Brother Rich and Captain Flake told me to take a mare they had gotten from an emigrant, that rightly belonged to. Brother Alexander Williams of Utah settle­ment. They valued the nag to be worth 50 dollars and as the ones I had were small, young and thin in flesh to stand such a trip as was before them to California. They advised me to take the animal and pay Brother Williams when I returned, I accord­ingly took the mare. We then went ten miles and made an early camp. Here sev­eral of us went up in a canyon and prospected for gold, but found none. Mon. 29th. Made about 25 miles and camped by a spring, plenty of grass and plenty of dry cedar for camp fires. We have now left the train of wagons. Tue. 30th. This morning we were visited by several Indians. Made about 28 miles and camped on Lost Creek but it soon sinks. JOURNAL EXTRACTS OF HENRY W. BIGLER 105 This evening after supper, Brother Rich requested the camp to come together (Captain Smith and company are in camp near by). Brother Rich said we should have some order and under­standing. He wanted Brother Flake to continue to be Captain if the company was willing. A vote was taken that Brother Flake be our Captain and Brother Rich his councilor. Brother Rich wanted us to be one and observe our prayers. He wanted a journal of the camp kept. It was then voted that Henry Rol­lins and Joseph Cain keep the journal. Wed. 31st. Last night it was agreed by all to make a cutroff and to be in the gold mines in about 20 days, by traveling in a more direct course. This conclusion came about from the fact that Captain Smith said that he was told of the cut-off by a mountaineer, whose name was Barney Ward, who said he had traveled it three times and it was known as Walker's Cut-off. The argument in favor of going over this cut-off was that we should be in the gold mines before the rainy season set in, while to keep the Spanish trail we should only reach Lower California by that time and then we should have to travel up the country hundreds of miles to reach the diggings. To the company this seemed plausible and all decided to make the cut-off. Thur. November 1st. Rained like sam hill all last night, all our bedding got wet. I sat up all night around a little fire, turn­ing first one side to the fire and then the other, it was a disagree­able time, but this morning it is partly clear. Here we are to leave the Spanish trail and travel a more direct course without a guide or trail. By ten o'clock all hands were on the new route. In the afternoon it commenced to rain and in a little while every thread was wet. The rain was cold and disagreeable, and in a short time the ground became so miry that our animals could hardly travel, at length Captain Flake called a halt by some rocks that afforded shelter from the storm. This we called, "Rocks of Refuge." Dry wood was plentiful, fires made and a general drying off ensued, while the cooks were busy preparing to get supper. Fri. 2nd. Clear, tops of the mountains white with snow. By 9 a. m. we were on the march, passing over the rim of the Great Basin into a canyon running southwest, making about 25 miles. Sat. 3rd. Laid by until nearly noon for our animals to fill up on grass as there is a spot of grass of about 50 acres. Near camp are some soft rocks on which I cut the three first letters of my name and the date. About 11 a. m. camp continued down the canyon, the road bad, made about 12 miles, no grass for our animals. 106 THE UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY As we came along I noticed some signs of gold. When we left camp this morning we expected to soon come to a valley. The mountains on each side of us are high and almost perpen­dicular at that, and to think of climbing them with our animals is out of the question. In traveling down the canyon we passed over a place where if a horse made one false step he would have plunged hundreds of feet without any possibility of saving himself. To-night I stand guard and it is raining heavy. We planted young willows endways in the ground and lashing the tops to­gether, making a sort of wigwam and spreading blankets over the tops, this sheltered us first-rate from the rain. Sun. 4th. At 10 a. m. broke camp and continued down the canyon, raining and snowing like sixty but we soon found our­selves completely blocked up. Brother Rich and others went to the top of the mountain to see if an outlet could be discovered, they reported that no outlet could be seen for as far as eye could see. Mountain raised one after another and could not see any valley. Some of the men descended the canyon to see if there was not a chance to make a road for our animals, in a little while they returned saying the road was extremely bad but thought by rolling a few rocks out of the way we could get along. We had two tight and steep places to ascend and at dark camped. Here is no grass for our animals. Made to-day about 5 miles. It is surprising to see where horses can go, and in ascending a very steep place, some of them fell and rolled over with their packs on, some we helped climb the barrier by putting ropes around their necks and 8 or 10 men at the end to pull them up. Mon. 5th. Cleared up in the night. We found a dead horse belonging to Brother Cannon, it had fallen into the creek and drowned; the same animal fell and rolled over and over yesterday with its pack on, which I think hurt him. Here is no feed and our animals look bad. By ten o'clock we were on the march, expecting at every turn of the canyon to see a valley. The traveling grew better, and I lost a good spur. The canyon widens and we came to where Indians had raised corn, beans, sunflowers and squashes, also wheat as there was lots of straw lying about on the ground. The corn fodder was standing minus the ears and judging by the stalks they had raised a good crop of corn. There were ditches or sects for irrigating. Passing on we soon came to another Indian farm and camped. The standing fodder afforded good food for our animals. JOURNAL EXTRACTS OF HENRY W. BIGLER 107 Tue. 6th. Clear and nice. To-day we passed a large wickiup, The Indians had fled on our approach, leaving to all appearances everything behind. There were fresh rawhides that no doubt belonged to some emigrant's ox. Judging from the course we have been traveling we have not made as yet much of a cut-off as our travel of late has been to the southwest. At evening we camped in a cottonwood grove, the leaves on the trees almost perfectly green, showing there had been no frost and now it seemed more like midsummer than November, near the bank of the creek. Wed. 7th. This morning Captain Flake and some others went ahead on foot to see what the country is like, for the water in the creek is growing less, and when they returned they said they had been 6 or 8 miles and that the country became more level but broken, and could see no signs of water, that this creek sinks in the sand a few miles below the camp. They said that there was another Indian corn field, below camp about a mile. We packed up and to the corn field we went, intending to lay by and let our animals rest and eat fodder that was green and good but the ears of corn was all plucked off and gone. We made an early camp and spent the balance of the day in shaving beards, mending shoes and boats, cleaning guns, etc. This morning Brother Keeler received a wound in his foot from the effects of Peck's spur, it set Brother Keeler almost crazy for a few minutes. This creek we gave the name, Farm creek. Thur. 8th. This morning while at breakfast 6 packers came in camp and said the whole train of wagons have left the Span­ish trail to follow us. I think they will soon have to abandon the idea to follow us and take some other route. At 9 o'clock we broke camp. We soon turned and took a due west course and about 10 o'clock at night made camp, having made about 30 or 32 miles. Our camp is in the dry bed of a river. An emigrant of Captain Smith's company came into our camp and said he would pay any price for a drink of water, there was none for sale. The day had been hot and my canteen was dry having drank and divided it with others. I said to this man that I was so dry myself that if I had a drink, I would not take fifty dollars for it. Brother Rich who was sitting by, said to me, "have you no water"? I replied, no sir, in a few minutes afterwards he called to tire, it was away from the fire in the dark. I went, he handed 108 THE UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY me his canteen and said, "Drink, drink, you are welcome.'' The canteen seemed to be two-thirds full. I said, no Brother Rich, but he urged me to drink, saying, he had not been very thirsty himself that day and I was welcome to a drink. I said to myself, God bless the man. Fri. 9th. This morning our animals were scattered in all directions. Brothers Rich and Rollins went to the top of a mountain, they say they could see no signs of water. We trav­eled up the bed of the river when one of my animals gave out. I left her and put the pack on the one I had been riding. Brother Keeler, who had the wound in the foot, I told him to go ahead with the company and if they found water, to send and meet me with a canteen of water. I was soon left alone. I frequently scratched holes in the sand for water and chewed bullets to cre­ate moisture in my mouth and to some extend it did. When about the middle of the afternoon I saw a man coming towards me, he raised his hand, shaking a tin cup, it was Brother Joseph Cain. I understood the signal and when we met, he handed me a full canteen of the best water I ever drank, I dreaned every drop. My mouth had become so bitter and I began to feel like vomiting. It was not far to camp, and when I arrived in camp supper was ready. I ate and drank until I was satisfied. This creek we gave the name, Providence Creek. Made to-day about 10 miles. Some of Captain Smith's men are still behind. Men filled canteens and went to meet their com­panions and even dividing water with their given out animals. Some of their companions they did not find and fears are, they were killed by Indians, for several were seen following us at no great distance. Sat. 10th. Camp laid by while twelve men with guns, can­teens of water, and spades went to hunt the 4 missing men and if found dead, to give them as decent a burial as we could. They had not gone far when they met them. The missing men had left the main camp and had gone in another direction for water, and had found some in a cave. When the men were met and no one dead, our men fired their guns in token that all was well. Hearing the firing at camp a number gathered their rifles and struck out in haste, believing that the Indians had made an attack. I herded and watched our horses. Sun. 11th. About 9 a. m. camp broke. Returned on our back track about a mile, then traveled west up and down hills all day, and in the afternoon 2 of my animals gave out. Here I could have wept, I pittied the poor dum brutes and to leave them JOURNAL EXTRACTS OF HENRY W. BIGLER i09 on the desert to perish, as feed is poor and no water for miles that I knew of, and let them fall into the hands of the Indians who may kill and eat them. I was now behind, I left the animals and proceeded on to camp on foot, where I arrived a little after dark. The camp the men believe is on the same creek we left this morning, and have not made but a few miles, but Captain Flake thinks otherwise. Brother Rich said this kind of traveling would never do and that his counsel had not been taken, if it had we would not be here, and that he was not going to travel this way any longer, if we did we would all perish in the mountains and if he could not have his way he would turn back for the Spanish trail, for it was plain to be seen that Captain Flake had taken Captain Smith's opinion instead of the counsel of the General (Rich). This reminds me of a dream Brother Rich had. He dreamed he was traveling and came up to an old lady sitting in the road, he spoke to her and asked if she would not get out of the way and let him pass. She muttered something and leaned a little to one side and he passed around her and took the shoot. Mon. 12th. Last night I stood guard. This morning while making preparations to start, I changed my shirt and garment and as they were in rags, I tore them up and buried them in the sand. Camp broke about 9 o'clock with the intention to travel south. I went to look for my two animals but could see nothing of them. We continued our journey until near evening when we came to a spot of grass, here we unpacked and let our animals eat for an hour, then packed up and traveled until ten at night. Captain Flake and Smith are ahead looking for water. We camped without water, having made about 30 miles. Tue. 13th. All hands set off at an early hour and about ten a. m. it commenced to rain. Soon it came down in torrents, pools of water were formed on the ground. We halted and went into camp, and had plenty of water for man and beast. Before night it cleared up. Captain Smith said it was plain to him that the finger of the Lord was in the rain. As for my part I feel that the Lord in His mercy sent the rain. We dug in a bank and got dry ground to make down our beds. There was no fuel to make fires, nothing but a large weed that grows on the desert and notwithstanding it was raining, I never saw anything burn so well. Wed. 14th. Nice Day. Camped moved a short distance where a weak spring was found. As the pools of water had all dis-> 110 THE UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY appeared it was agreed to stop at the spring, dig it deeper and clean it out, when we now have plenty of water. Thur. 15th. Camp laid by while General Rich and 3 of our men went to the top of a high mountain, west of camp, to get a view of the country ahead of us as the General has his scruples about continuing our journey in that direction. Late in the night they got back to camp. Fri. 16th. This morning Captain Smith came to our camp and asked Brother Rich what discoveries he had made and what he intended to do. The General gave it as his opinion that there was no water, nor could he see any sign of water as far as he could see, and in his opinion there was no pass, for mountains rose one after another as far as the eye could see, for aught he knew for 150 miles, and that it was his intention to make for the Spanish trail, by turning and traveling in a southeast direc­tion, and all that were mind to follow him, he would lead out for the Spanish trail. Captain Smith said he would continue his course across the mountains if he perished in the attempt. "And if," said he, "you do not hear from me, you may know that I died with my face westward, and not before I have eaten some mule meat." At this the two companies parted. Two of Smith's men joined us. The spring we named, Division Spring. General Rich and party had not proceeded far when we came to good grass and water. We halted and dined, after which we continued a few miles and camped for the night, where we had plenty of water and grass. Made about 15 miles. Indians were living here and on our approach they had run, leaving their bows and arrows, baskets, knives and paints. Sat. 17th. Followed the creek through a narrow canyon of solid rocks on each side, rising abruptly for aught I know five hundred feet. The bursting of a percussion-cap was like the crack of a rifle. Made to-day about 15 miles. Sun. 18th. Continued our journey for about 5 miles when we saw a smoke, in a few minutes we saw cattle feeding on the other side of the river and some men with them. They told us that Captain Hunt was encamped just below with his train of wagons, and when we made up, who did we find but Captain Hunt sure enough, with a large train of wagons on the Spanish trail, on the muddy, just at the edge of the 50 mile drive to the next water and with him was Brother Addison Pratt, James Brown and Blackwell with the rodeometer. I dreamed last night of seeing Brothers Pratt and Brown. Captain Hunt told us that JOURNAL EXTRACTS OF HENRY W. BIGLER 111 a train of 100 wagons had started to follow us or perish in the attempt. I will state here what I have since heard what became of Cap­tain Smith and company. From Division Spring they traveled on their way westward a day or so without finding water and were forced to return to Division Spring, but before reaching the spring they had become so exhausted that they killed one of their animals and ate and drank its blood. From Division Spring they took the back track until they reached the old Suanish trail where they fell in with a company on their way to California. The company took them in, fur­nished them provisions, and took them to California. When Captain Smith and company were returning to Division Spring there were eleven of his men that determined to go through to California at all hazards and so left Smith and again turned their faces westward, trusting to chance about finding water, but somewhere near Owens Lake in sight of the great Sierra Nevada, they split as to the best way to go, nine went one way and two another. The two got through but I never heard what became of the mine. I met one of the two in the Mariposa mines in the spring of 1850 and heard him tell the story. He said had it not been for some acorns they found laid away by Indians, they would surely have perished. Now I will return to Captain Hunt's train. A Dutchman who left Captain Smith's train overtook us, he had been robbed by Indians of nearly everything he had. Tue. 20th. At noon the whole train broke camp for the next water fifty miles, at a place called the Abages, where we arrived on the 21st. Here is plenty of water and good grass, here we halted to let our animals feed and rest until the 23rd, when we moved about 12 miles and camped. The feed here is all eaten off by emigrant animals ahead of us. Sat. 24th. Went 4 miles and camped on a good patch of grass, found by Captain Hunt last evening, also water. I spent most of the day hunting hares. Sun. 25th. Nice day, made 8 and % miles by the rodeometer, and camped by a spring in a mountain, wood plenty, the most of it is cedar and dry. Here we found a note dated November 18th. for Captain Dallas to come ahead soon as possible for their train was starv­ing, that the writer had seen things that made his blood run cold and had sent some of their men to the settlements in California for provisions. Captain Hunt says it is 220 miles yet to the first settlement. 112 THE UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY Mon. 26th. Clear and fine. Last night I stood my turn of guard. Made 30 miles, road good. Tue. 27th. Clear and frosty. Made 20 miles and camped at a spring, road not very good. At this spring it is said that some Spaniards were killed by Indians. Here the camp-fires of the emigrants had not gone out. Along the road we passed dead oxen, yokes, kegs and chains left by the way, and I noticed one poor old live ox standing alone, no others about that I could see and he perhaps five miles away from water. Wed. 28th. Laid by, rained in the night. One of the men belonging to the train of Captain Hunt, killed a beef and as our mess was short of provisions to last us to the settlements, we bought 43 pounds at 8 cents per pound. Thur. 29th. At noon we left the train of wagons and went about seven or eight miles and camped for the night. Fri. 30th. Last night 2 footmen belonging to Captain Hunt's train left him and came in to our camp carrying their provisions on their backs, on their way to the settlements. We made a few miles and made an early camp. In passing through a notch of a low mountain I noticed signs of gold. We got something to eat and filled up our canteens as we have a drive of 45 miles to the next water, and at 4 p. m. we were on the march. The road was good and smooth, the moon shone nice and bright. We traveled until midnight, passed a wagon that had been left by emigrants, a box and several dead oxen. We camped without water and grass for our animals. Made about 25 miles since four o'clock. Brother Rich let me ride in turns with him, he having a good mule or I should have given out, as Brother Keeler and I have but two animals between us and they are so poor and thin in flesh that we favor them all we can. Sat., December 1st., 1849. By sunrise we were on the march, in a few miles we came in sight of some wagons in camp off to our left a mile or more. We made up to them, they had found by accident water standing in holes. We unpacked and our cooks were busy preparing something to eat, while our animals were filling up on grass. Resting three hours we packed up, made ten miles further, and camped near the Bitter Spring. Sun. Dec. 2nd. We traveled until nine o'clock in the night •when we reached the Mojave River. Here we overtook some emigrants in camp, men, women and children, bound for Cali­fornia. They told us they had been here a month, living on noth­ing but beef. We let them have all the flour we could spare. It was a pitiable sight to see them in their condition. The poor little children, my heart was filled for them. (To be continued)