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Show 172 LEADING FACTS OF NEW MEXICAN Contemporaneous with the coming of the American merchant and trader European and American styles of dress for the men began to displace the national costu me of the NATIVE DRESS AND Mexicans among the better and wealt hier clasgsCOSTUMES es of society. It was not, however, until the coming of the American soldier during the occupation period, and the bringing to the country of American ladies, wives, and members of the families of American officers, that the Mexican women ever began to adopt European and American fashions in dregs. Many years passed before the women of New Mexico could be induced to wear the bonnet or hat of modern fashion. Instead they wore the rebozo, which was a fixture in the dress of the New Mexican lady until, approximately, the coming of the railroads to the territory."* The rebozo was a long scarf, made of silk which or cotton, according to the taste and purse was worn over the head, with one of the wearer, end thrown across the left shoulder, A lady was never seen in the street without this article of feminine apparel, and even indoors it was seld om laid aside, when it was drawn loose ly around the person. When walkimg or promenading in the plaz a, the lady’s face was so closely muffled that not more th an one eye was visible, and it was next to rh flight, turn round, and you will see him expecting a third saluta he returns with great tion, which courtesy, and remains until you are out of 4S you wind down the sight; so that, stairs, if you catch a glimpse of him, kiss your hand, Pe he will think you & most accomplished cavalier.’ This igs not an oversawne Inpicture of Spanish politeness, and parad leaving the house of Mexican freque ntly have I the same gentlemen. At each stagemade described leave-taking, it of the aboveis customary for the host waleh 18S waved to you to Say adios, the last of from the window after you have entered the street.?? Fé ” In the year 6 Railr 1880, upon the completion of the Atchison, Santa Fé, the New Mexico legisl Officers ofoadthe into railway compa ature was in session, The ny invited mbers of the legisl their wives : , ature, with ves and daughters, to visitos Topeka : where the Kansas state was then in session. legislature E = accepted the invitation including of ladies, Among verybody quite a numothers in the party were Major José > aa and his ne ey, time. Pyj Prominenti people in the political and social] life of New Mexico pes oo their d at that : , who had 2 gallant major : been in the ‘‘states’ , dress of American women quite well, ite persuaded . his wife after much arguto discard her nebozo and purchase a magnifi cent reat sacrific ee uliner a7 great to wear and on thepatienc trip e.east. This Mrs. Sena did, although at e ofy comfort Upon their return, and the train had assed just after window of the Pullme tee narttiarn borders of New : ifti 11s Mexico, lifti an ; in which they were riding ng up the %g ¢ ’ he t} 2, She y the triumph threw i h o of the ewe © window, exclaiming **Dios y Libertad,’’ XT a S810NAeprenh used by the Mexica a patriotic ns in all official] documents. MANNERS HISTORY Topeka and Santa AND CUSTOMS OF THE PEOPLE 173 impossible to recognize your most intimate friend in the street. The dress of the lower classes with the women consisted of little more than a chemise and enaguas, a petticoat of home-made flannel, generally of bright colors. They seldom wore shoes, and wore the rebozo upon the head. The men wore a serape, a sort of blanket, the head being thrust through a hole in the middle, and the whole person enveloped in its ample folds. With the coming of the American trader and merchant the serape rapidly disappeared and the people began the use of shirts, waistcoats, and coats. The vast majority of the country people wore garments of dressed deerskin and moccasins. The women were very fond of Jewelry and in dress were very partial to bright colors, a taste which was readily catered to by the merchant Seems to have made and trader of the early days, who a specialty in devising, procuring, and supply- ing the most peculiar shades of the brightest sort. The costume of the Spanish or Mexican caballero was a dress both striking and handsome. His head was covered with a sombrero with a very wide brim, with a high or a low crown, to suit the taste of the wearer. A band of silver or gold cord surrounded it, and on each side was an ornament woven in silver or gold. The hat was made of plaited grass, covered with oiled silk ; some hats were made of embroidered with or brown handsomely embroidered, and adorned with buttons of The trousers, called calzones, were the most stylish article wardrobe; these also were made of cloth and foxed with the a rn of his same silver or gold felt, and thread. these The material, of a different also were richly jacket was of blue color. The legs were ornamented with silver buttons on the outer seams from the hips down, besides sh or three silver clasps on each side near the waistband. gd Se unacquainted with suspenders and in their place wore a ‘ Which was drawn tightly around the waist, with the ends Bea z down on one side. called botas, were tection of the A pair of embossed fastened pantaloons. or carved leather to the leg below These were and were both ornamental and useful. the knee, often richly for eggins, wie embrol sha The personal costume oats Completed with a beautiful serape thrown over the shoulder or al across the saddle-bow. The serapes were made of wool, woven in bright colors, and oftentimes were very expensive. They were |
