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Show I ll wardly to I van pah. From the appearance of the country already traversed, and from information gathered ale ng the route, I concluded that the attempt would be hazardous in the extreme. But little rain had fallen during the previous ten months throughout all that section of country. Springs, which formerly had. never failed, were found dry, and no grass or other feed for the animals could be obtained if we left the river ; hence, I concluded to follow the course of the river as far as the Saline Flats of the Mohave, called Soda Lake by Lieutenant Whipple. This latter place was reached on the morning of July 13. The route to the Saline Flats of the Mohave kept near the bed of the river, in which running water is seen at but few places, and in diminishing quantity as one proceeds toward Soda Lake Spring. Water can be obtained by digging a few feet in the sandy bed of the river at almost any place. Vegetation occurs at points along the river where the water comes near the surface, and at several points along the route, as Point of Rocks, Cottonwood Station, and near old Camp Cady. Extensive groves of oottonwood and mesquite trees are found. Grass was scarce along the river on account of the great number of sheep which had lately passed over that route on their way to Arizona. Between Grapevine Station and forks of the road, the road crossed the bed of a dry lake or basin. The bed isjelay/ baked hard and dry, and perfectly smooth. Not a particle of vegetation is seen, not even sage- brush. It is about 2 miles wide and 4 miles long. During the rainy season, water accumulates here to a depth of a few inches, the clay becomes soft, and the road is impassable for wagons and animals. The beat during the day kept on increasing as we descended the valley, the thermometer indicating over 100° in the shade nearly every day. The nights were generally cool, at one time the minimum temperature being as low as 44c. At Soda Lake Spring, however, no respite from the heat was obtained at night. The hot, dry wind coming from the south was almost suffocating, removing the moisture rapidly from the body, thus necessitating a great consumption of water to keep up the supply. The water here is obtained from a spring from which flows a considerable stream, clear and limpid, bnt strongly alkaline, and nauseating when drunk in large quantities. The Saline Flats of the Mohave constitute a basin about 20 miles long, with an average width of nearly 10 miles. The surface is composed of a white crust of saline and alkaline material deposited from the evaporated water. In the summer months nearly the whole basin is dry, but after heavy rains during the winter the surface is covered with water whicl} is too brackish for use by animals or men. Splendid mirages were seen here which gave the distant portions of the basin the appearance of a large lake. The illusion is perfect, and tales are told of weary and thirsty travelers who have hurried on to queuch their thirst, only to be disappointed and meet a horrible death. The drainage of the basin is toward the north, and the supposition is that it is connected with Death Valley, but this surmise has not yet been proved to be a fact. From Soda Lake Spring to Cottonwood Island on the Colorado River, the route is northeastwardly after passing around the north end of the basin, over a rauge of mountains to I van pah, a small mining town, which contains one stamp- mill and a smelting- fnrnace; thence eastwardly across the dry bed of a basin without outlet, of considerable extent, over the summits of the Providence range, then down a gradual slope to the Colorado River at Cottonwood Island. The route to Ivanpah is a trail, very heavy and sandy in some places, but passable for wagons with light loads. From Ivanpah to the summit of the river range there i s an Indian trail practicable for riding and pack animals. From the summit to the river there is a gradual slope, the trail which follows the bed of the wash being practicable for wagons. The only water found between Soda Lake Spring and Ivanpah was at Hallovan Springs, Camp 17, and France's Spring, Camp 18. At the former the sunj) ly was limited. Between Ivanpah and Cottonwood Island no water was found except at Crossman Spring, Camp 20. At Ivanpah we were assured that an abundance of water would be found in wells on the east side of the basin ; but on arriving there the wells were found dry, and it became necessary to push on to the spring. There but a small quantity of water was found, which was soon exhausted by the animals. The mud and decayed vegetable matter which nearly filled the spring were then removed, but the water trickled in so slowly during the night that there was not enough for the animals in the morning. But little grass was found on this part of the route. " Gallete " grass, very coarse and dry, was found in considerable abundance east of the basin, near Ivaupah; the latter place obtains its supply of grass here. Near the summits of the ranges some bunch-grass was found and a better quality of " gallete/' but generally the grass was too far from the water to be of avail. Hallovan Springs was an exception to this rule ; but here the water gave out, so we could not take advantage of the excellent bunch- grass found near this place. From the summit of the river- range we obtained the first view of the Colorado River. From this point it lay before us like a silver band, sparkling in |