Utah Historical Quarterly Volume XVI - XVII

Journal of W. C. Powell, edited by Charles Kelly - 7

464 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY Oct. 25th. Commenced by fixing our traps, getting ready to trade. Found our best broken, also the ground glass to the camera, so it took us all day to get the traps in working order. Trade went off lively, Jacob buying skins, blankets, pottery, 6 c , for a few strings of beads. Of course the room was crowd­ed, the Moquis watching a chance to steal. Bought a few onions for supper. Several Moquis made me offer[s] for my mare and colt but none that suited me. Made one of them (a Pah-Ute) mad because I would not trade. In the evening Jacob traded some ammunition secretly, going to one of their houses. After trading was over with was invited to a kiva to a dance. They had a lively time of it, the men stripping to the breech-clout and went stamping around in a circle keeping time to an old drum and shaking a gourd in each hand. A squaw was between a couple of men, their bare feet tripping most fantastically. The orchestra of old men chanting with tears rolling down their cheeks. After enduring it awhile, retired. Oct. 26th. The traps are all out of gear and the wind and weather will not admit of first-class pictures. Occupied our time today in making groups of Moquis gathered in front of our "Hogon." The weather growing colder in the afternoon were compelled to suspend photographic operations. Orand and my­self went over to the old Moquis town at the invitation of a Moquis who gave us some peek and melons. Suddenly we heard a terrible howling among the inmates; was told that a Moquis "Mahala" had yaquard [?]. Saw how they made peek. A short time ago a Moquis fell off the mesa and wonderful to relate, is still living. Saw the place, at a narrow neck that connects the two towns, where the Moquis had thrown over thirty-five Navajos; could see their bones and blankets among the rocks below. Just under the cliffs are the sheep corrals into which the sheep are taken every night. Andy came in at night with the animals; Jacob and I went after 3 that left the band off the mesa. Oct. 27th. Weather very cold, the wind blowing a perfect gale, so the picture business was out of the question. Passed a weary wretched day; passed the time with Wallace and Orand as we had no wood to burn. Jacob traded off a couple of animals to them for 2 of theirs, getting yarn, manta, blankets, 6c, to boot. The yarn and manta of course was smouged from the government. Trading is about over with, will finish at Oryba. Have got a nice assortment of pottery, baskets, skins, moc­casins, leggings, 6 c Orand and I made a visit to a Navajo- Moquis that had just come in from a hunting trip over at the San Francisco Mountains with some 35 buckskin, a mountain lion skin, besides. Others wanted to trade for my mare and colt. Gave us some mescalle [mescal], and oose to eat; 'twas so sweet JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 465 it sickened me. Dancing going every night but do not care about seeing them. Roasted onions, bread and jerk form our princi­pal bill-of-fare at present. 'Tis the most low-spirited hole I ever was in. Oct. 28th. Taking pictures all day and finished up the 3 towns much to our satisfaction. Will lay over tomorrow to see and take the cochine [kachina] dance for which they are mak­ing extensive preparations. Traded with a Navajo for his wristlets. Offered me 3 blankets for my colt but they not suit­ing my fancy, refused. He then offered me $1.00 for my re­volver. A laugh spoiled that interesting swap. Said he would piqua (?) [travel] to his hogan after some bonita-pal-cladies [good blankets] for me. So off he started with my regards for his squaw and children. A few of the Moquis have Navajo squaws. Saw one of them weaving and made a picture of her. Moquis men do their weaving in the kivas. We got some Moquis to get us a jug full of water every morning-enough to last us dur­ing the day. Jack had his music and revolver stolen from his sack, much to his disgust. A small band of Apaches came riding in to trade. They are wicked-looking fellows dressed in buck­skin, armed with long lances and bows and arrows. Oct. 29th. Jack and I took a few more pictures of the Tawa town.183 Went down in one of the kivas in court to see the men dress the squaw for the forth-coming dance. All around town fires were built and meat, peek, vegetables, corn, 6c, cook­ed for the feast after the dance. Several Navajo friends were invited and came riding in, gaily dressed. At about noon we heard the drum sound and hurrying into the court saw the fashion and beauty of Wallapi issuing from off the ladders leading from the kiva. A full quoir [choir] stood at the head of the court while the dancers numbering about 40 or 50 went through the pow-wow in front of them. A couple of devils, and a couple of clowns did ample justice to the occasion. Their dress would be hard to describe; paint, feathers, brief costumes and ever­greens were conspicuously displayed. They would dance for half or three-quarters of an hour at a time, then retire for rest and food and then at it again till the setting of the sun, when the grand feast commenced. After that important item was over with they danced all night till broad daylight, in the kiva. The monotonous chant, the dismal sounding of the drum, the rattle of cochina gourds and the pattering of bare painted feet was heard in the wee small hours. We stood it as long as flesh and blood were able and then rolled up in our blankets. During the afternoon we succeeded in making one or two instantaneous views "Tewa-speaking Indians migrated here from die Rio Grande Valley in die 17th century, and adopted many Hopi ways. Their vdlage is called "Hano." 466 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY of the dances. Took a picture of Wallace. Made a trade with Orand; gave him a pair of spurs for a Navajo blanket and a knife for a Navajo whip. They, Wallace and Orand, have not proved themselves very hospitable. Jacob did the herding of the animals today. Last night they broke out of the corral, went down the mesa and got into the cornfields. Have been besieged all day long for damage money. The amount eaten was enormous and the price fabulous, but a little indigo and a few strings of beads settled it. Well, tomorrow we leave. I never was so sick and disgusted with anything in my life as I am with these Mo­quis, they are a "Bilk." Oct. 30th. After breakfast we packed up and were soon off the mesa. Had trouble driving the animals for they were hungry and were continually making bee-lines for the adjacent corn­fields. We watered them at one of their reservoirs. Were fol­lowed by a crowd of Indians but as we advanced they kept drop­ping off by ones and twos, only a couple following us to the 3 towns on the opposite mesa, about 6 miles distant. The towns on the rock [First Mesa] that we have just left are Tawa [Hano], Wallapi [Walpi] and Moquis [Sichomovi]. The ones on the rock [Second Mesa] before us are Machameneva, [Mish-ongnovi], Chama Pavates [Shongopovi] and SheSpalava [Shupaulovi]. Camped a few yards below Machameneva. The inhabitants regard us with suspicion. Andy took the ani­mals down, Jacob kept camp while Jack and I photographed the towns. Saw several Albinos. 'Twas this town that Ives first struck. Finished the town before sundown and returned to camp. A few Moquis came around looking and talking about us but not offering to trade, except one old fellow that wanted my mare and colt; invited me to his house to supper and to show me his blankets. Around a huge pot or bowl filled with both animal and vegetable compound and a couple of baskets of peek, we sat, 10 in number, eating with wonderful ease and dexterity with our fingers, till we had an elegant sufficiency. Rising with a "Qua-Qua" I politely inspected his pashelas and not coming up to my fastidious taste, gravely declined, much to his disappointment. I then made a circuit of the town seeing several 'elephants" of dwarfed size [burros ?]. However, Jacob coming up, we tried to buy a little water from them, succeeding in getting enough for supper, for a box of caps and a few bars of lead. Andy coming up supper was soon over with. Jack and Andy concluded to camp out with the animals, so taking their blankets, left Jacob and myself to watch camp. Jacob had trouble with these fellows last year because he refused to pay them for the corn their animals had eaten one night. The Indians kept us around the fire till late. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 467 Oct. 31st. I got breakfast and expected that Jack and Andy would be up bright and early. We waited awhile but they not coming, ate finally about 10:00 a.m. They came in with only 8 animals; said that the Indians had run them and scattered the stock (with hobbles on); had hunted for them till midnight and ever since daylight this morning, and could only find 8. Pres­ently we saw the other 4 nearby and Jacob went down to get them. While eating breakfast, an [sic] Wallapi Moquis came in with a note from Orand saying that he had found his (Jack's) music and herewith sent over by a runner; also stated he would like Jacob to come back and go with them to Oryba tomorrow. We soon had Chama Pavate boxed by noon, had packed up and were moving toward the Palava, about a mile farther on. In going down the mesa descended 69 stone steps with our animals. 'Twas a dangerous place and 'twas a wonder that the train ever got down without an accident. On reaching the foot came to a reservoir, a beautiful spring bubbling up cool and sparkling among the rocks. There we watered our stock and soon were climbing into the farther town. Our arrival caused no excitement or curiosity, apparently. Found my old Navajo with a comrade there. We soon had the town photographed; 'tis by all odds the neatest and best-built town of the seven. The old Navajo again offered me a trade but not having the right quantity of blankets, refused. Jacob here left us going back to Wallapi to see the 2 white men, while we 3 started to­ward Oryba. Met a couple of Navajos who were also anxious for a trade. After descending the mesa found that I had dropped my saddle blanket. Climbed the cliff after it and following the train for a couple of miles overtook them just as they were going into camp. As we were unsaddling, up came the 4 Navajos that we had seen at the last town. They at once unsaddled and camped with us. We threw our things into one pile and made our beds on each side, for Indians are Indians and will steal. The Navajos rustled brush for the party, and after getting our supper handed them the frying pan and gave them a lot of dough and all the meat that we had with us. They understood the business, handling the frying pan with an ease and grace most surprising. After supper was dispatched they commenced business by showing some handsome blankets. I wanted 10 blankets for both mare and colt and was firm in my demand. They were shrewd fellows but were bound to have the animals, and slowly threw down blanket after blanket till the required number was reached. We then shook hands and said "Wana hey-i" and the bargain was made, each well pleased with his trade. As I had taken all of their "pal cladies" and as it was "Monche freio carajo" lent them the blankets to sleep on. They were jovial, fun-loving rascals, sharp as a whip, and although 468 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY we could not understand them they kept us in a continual roar till quite late, when we rolled up in our blankets. Nov. 1st, [1872]. Up early and not having water, breakfast was out of the question. The Navajos drove up our stock, skill­fully lassoed their recently-acquired property and after asking us for some flour, departed with a whoop, while we packed up and started for Oryba some 6 or 8 miles distant. We were soon climbing up its stone steps and unpacked at our old place back of Tuba's house. Mrs. T. gave us a dinner, or break­fast, rather, of peek, melon and the "compound." After it was over we set up tent and camera and soon had the town of Oryba boxed up. Pictures have not been a success but the impression will be good to engrave from. Got a couple of quivers for bow and arrows. Traded off the six-shooter for a staving nice blanket for Cousin Nellie. In the afternoon Jacob, Wallace and Orand came riding in to have a pow-wow with the Moquis to see if they would not accept some $4000 or $5000 of stuff from Uncle Sam. After a late consultation they concluded not to accept them as it was against their ancient traditions. Nov. 2nd. Last evening Orand and I went around to Tuba's hogan and had a gay supper of peek, tomatoes and beans. To day Jacob had hard work in getting the rest of the stuff and finally could only get part, the Moquis looking on us with dis­trust. Got a couple of looms with blankets partly woven by paying big prices. Wallace and Orand left us at noon. Triba is going to the Mou-em-copy tomorrow and Jacob has decided to go with him; as it will be about as short 'twill make no dif­ference to us. The usual crowd of Moquis around us all day, watching for an opportunity to steal. Some of them can talk pretty good English. One of them named "Lie" staid with a Dutchman over in Mormondom and the way he talks is really comical. Tried to get some moccasins but only succeeded in getting one pair. In the evening a Moquis invited me to supper. I got some differently-colored peek to take home with me as a curiosity; he sent a melon to camp. Nov. 3rd. Andy drove up the stock this morning. Break­fast was eaten, packs put on and all ready for the start. We bade Oryba good-bye and the Moquis' towns farewell without feeling of regret but rather with joy. Having more flour than we needed gave Triba part of it for his kindness to us. Triba and another Moquis will accompany us to the Mou-em-copy, 45 miles away. Passing through their cornfields and peach orchards we were once more plodding wearily through the sand. Numer­ous peaks appeared along the horizon and the San Francisco Mountains seemed quite near; between us and them flows the Little Colorado. Could see where it joins the Grand River. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 469 Went into camp about 4:00 p.m., and after getting something to eat, packed up again and traveled till 10 or 11 o'clock, the new moon giving a faint light. Getting quite tired camped beside the trail. The Moquis having some melons and peek with them had a luncheon around the sagebrush fire; then the Moquis treated us to an evening song as we were rolling up. Nov. 4th. Up early. The two Moquis started on before us to overtake their animals which had taken the trail to the Mou-em-copy. No breakfast for us as we had no water, but hastily packing up, started. The trail is heavy with sand. Weary wastes of it greets the eye everywhere. After traveling some 15 miles came to the creek looking green, with cottonwoods scattered along its banks. Crossing it, we came to the Moquis houses, some half dozen in number. They have quite a large garden watered from springs. They raise corn, melons, beans, cotton, 6 c , 6 c Turned our stock into their cornfield to feed on the fodder. Had a good dinner of beans and peaches. Some of us having some immigrants [lice], cleaned ourselves, dis­carding our old clothes and putting on clean ones. The day is raw and chilly and threatens rain. At suppertime Triba invited us to come and sleep in his cabin. As it would be likely to rain during the night Jacob and I accepted. He [Tuba] gave us a supper of peek, melons and onions. We then smoked. Nov. 5th. Rained some during the night. After a hearty breakfast packed up and started with a Pah-Ute for a guide. We kept around a line of cliffs breaking back toward the north. As the Indian was lame we let him ride, while some one of us would walk. Some 8 or 10 miles out we came to Tuba's cotton patch; 15 miles farther on to the guide's cornfield in which were [sic] a lot of melons, squashes and pumpkins were growing. A fine spring coming out of the cliff watered it finely. Had a hearty dinner with baked punkin [sic] for a dessert. On our way again by 2:00 p.m. Looming up in the distance are the peaks that stand guard over the Thousand Wells, but they seem to recede as we advance. There is no trail and 'tis hard traveling. We still keep under the cliffs as they slowly break toward the river. Went into camp at dark, made a sagebrush fire and had a good supper. No water for the animals. Spent the evening as usual around the fire. Nov. 6th. We left the Pah-Ute at camp this morning, giv­ing him some ammunition for his services. Jack traded him out of his bow for a part of an old blanket. Jacob rode on ahead to see if there was water at Limestone Canon; if not to dig for it. At noon we struck the trail where it climbed the cliff leading to the "Wells" and at about 4:00 in the afternoon reached Lime Rock Caiion, finding plenty of good water. Concluded 470 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY to camp for the night. Watered the stock and turned them out, then got supper. A party of Navajos camped here last night and at some time have herded sheep around here, some of the old corrals still standing, while out in the valley are the re­mains of 2 or 3 wickiups. Jacob says that they frequently winter their stock here and at times on the Colorado River. Not feeling very sleepy we dreamily watched a pot of beans while under the narcotic influence of the cigarettes. Nov. 7th. After breakfast packed up; the train started on while I filled the canteens; soon overtook them however. Noth­ing of importance to note. The thoughts of the long dreary rides are perfectly sickening. Just at dark we reached the Colorado and shouting across to the Lees, soon had the satis­faction of seeing Mrs. Lee and Billy come over after us with the boat. Taking our blankets and what few things we needed, leaving the stock and packs, we crossed and were soon having a good warm supper that Mrs. Lee got for us. Jacob and I browned a lot of coffee and then ground it, enough to last us to Kanab. Mrs. Lee agreed to bake us up a lot of bread so that will save us the trouble of baking. She told us of the trouble she had in crossing the Navajos. She certainly is a woman of pluck. Jacob made her a rat-trap. I cut up a slashing big squash for breakfast while Mrs. Lee put on a pot of beef to boil. Jacob and I then made our blankets on the corn husks. Nov. 8th. Went to the river before breakfast to cross some of the stuff. In swimming "Buttons" and one of Jacob's horses, they got into the quicksand. Had to do some tall pulling and lifting to get them out; then went back to a good breakfast. After that was dispatched, finished crossing over the packs and pack animals. Packed them into the wagon, hitched up and drove over to Mrs. Lee's and had dinner, then bidding her a fond farewell, started for the first creek. In going over one of the many gulches got stalled; worked away for a couple of hours; made a portage and got across. 'Twas dark when we went into camp. Nov. 9th. Went after the stock and got a pretty early start, Jack and I doing the driving, one of us walking as it was too cold to sit still. Andy drove the loose stock. Jacob, of course, was a regular "stump on a log." Just at sunset drove into the "Pools" and camped. The "elder" [Lee], of course, gave us a warm greeting and invited us to a supper of mush and milk with his "Happy Family." Gave him the gun. Jacob slept at the house; I slept alone. Nov. 10th. Jacob and John D. were very anxious for us to spend the day at the Pools and have a "spree," but we could not see it at all. Spent a very cold disagreeable night. Jack and I went after the stock and could have had an early start if it had not been for Jacob. On our way to House Rock met some JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 471 of Wheeler's party10* on their way to the Pahria. Jacob was afraid they were after John D. Lee.186 They had a six-mule team in charge of 2 men; some 25 or 30 of them were on the trail. Mr. Thompson said that Grant was elected, which made Jacob draw a fearful long face.188 Mr. T. also said that our party were all over at Mt. Trumbull. They had "Tom" for a guide. Reached House Rock at noon and watered the stock and had dinner. Jacob felt so bad at the recent news that he started on afoot while we had grub. Passed Wheeler's party's camp. Andy drove loose stock while Jack and I took turns in driving. It was night and the moon was shining when we overtook Jacob at the foot of the mountain. We climbed it and camped in Summit Valley. Nov. 11th. Off by 8:00 o'clock. Reached the Navajo Wells a little after noon. Jacob then sent Andy on to Kanab to let the folks know that we were coming and to have a warm supper waiting for us. I drove loose stock, Jack drove. Got into Kanab just after sundown, weary and hungry. Cousin Nellie was flying about getting us a nice supper. Was glad to see us, did not expect us for a week or more. All of the party are at Mt. Trumbull; will not be in before next week. Only one letter for me from Fanny. Feel very tired. Nov. 12th. Jack bought some wine. I got a bushel of potatoes; Adair has gone north after flour. Had to borrow some of Reider. Spent most of the day at Cousin Nellie's tent. The weather is growing cold. Nov. 13th. While reading in the tent who should come in but Riley just from the Colorado. Has not struck it rich yet but expects to shortly. Has a partner named Richards. We invited them to camp with us as long as they stayed. Indian Frank came in on the Mangum mare with a note from Prof, saying not to expect him for some 8 or 10 days; had gone to St. George. Cousin Nellie is quite sick with neuralgia. Received a good long letter from Morris. Gave Jack one of my Navajo blankets. Nov. 14th. Day passed at the tent reading, looking at pic­tures and talking. The weather is quite cold and the stove in the tent, pleasant. Cousin Nellie is very kind. Am sorry she suffers so much with her head. Received news of the burning of Boston but no particulars. Jacob started for Long Valley. 1MWheeler's party was connecting its survey with that of Powell, but tiiere was some coolness between the two leaders. On this expedition G. K. Gilbert made notes for his monograph on the Henry Mountains, which Powell may have considered a trespass on his discovery. 1MiJohn D. Lee was expecting arrest at any moment for his part in the Mountain Meadows Massacre of 1857. While friendly widi Powell's men, he was suspicious of anyone in government employ. "The Mormons had hoped for a more sympathetic national administration than Grant's had been. They failed to achieve statehood in 1872 and did not try again for ten years. 472 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY Part of Wheeler's men are camped up the canon at the 3 lakes. Cousin Nellie gave me my purse containing half a dollar. Nov. 15th. At about noon Cousin Nellie and I had a splendid ride down to the gap and back; it did us both good. Have been writing my diary up for the past 2 or 3 weeks. Gave Cousin Nellie my Navajo riding whip. Got a dozen or 13 arrows from the Indians. Nellie sent us down some nice stewed peaches and butter. We are simply waiting, waiting, waiting. Nov. 16th. Very cold night last night. Have been writing my diary all forenoon. Am not feeling well at all. Another man killed on the Sevier by the Uintah Utes. This waiting is growing fearfully monotonous. Cousin Nellie and I talk of going to Pipe [Spring] tomorrow to meet the party. Cousin Nellie has just sent off a lot of flowers to Prof. Gray at Washington. A rice pudding went gay for supper. Saw a cloud of dust in the dis­tance and thought it was the party, but 'twas not. Nov. 17th. Sunday once again; a pleasant peaceful day it is. If it were not for the continual "percution [persecution] of the Saints," would go to meeting. Consoled myself however, by shaving. Ate dinner at Mrs. Hamblin's. Read most of the day. Jacob came in from Long Valley this evening. Nov. 18th. Jacob, Jack and Joe went out after some wood. Cousin Nellie and I went out for a gallop of 4 or 5 miles on the bottom; returned in time for a good square meal. Cousin Nellie is severely afflicted with neuralgia in head, back and shoulders. Nov. 19th. Jackson from Pipe Springs over this morning. Cousin Nellie gave me "Whittier" which I sent to Mrs. Windsor for kindness shown me. Mail day but not an atom for me. Some papers containing the election news. Mormons draw long faces over Grant's re-election. Jack helping Jacob haul wood. Cousin Nellie made us some nice taffy. Jack and I spent the evening at her tent. Got a nice bow from [for ?] Frank; Cousin Nellie got him a pampooses bow with some arrows, as she was afraid that he would not be strong enough to draw one of the larger ones. Nov. 20th. A Mr. [G. K.] Gilbert of Lieut. [George M.] Wheeler's party in camp today. Cousin Nellie sold him a Navajo blanket quite cheap. Am doing duty attending to the horses, feeding, watering and currying them down. Received a dispatch from Prof, at St. George. He (Prof.) wished to know if the Maj. and the Moquis' party were in. We answered accordingly. When not spending our evenings at the tent, sit around the fire singing. Nov. 21st. Another dispatch from Prof, telling Jack to pack the Indian goods in boxes. [William] Bell of Philadelphia and his assistant photographer of Lieut. Wheeler's party made us a short visit; have just returned from the Pahria. Showed him JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 473 our negatives. He pronounced them fine. Invited us up to his camp tomorrow to see his negatives. Nov. 22nd. After breakfast went down on the range and brought up "Buttons" and the sorrel mule and at noon Jack and I started for Wheeler's camp at the Lakes; reached it at about 2:00 P.M. The day was raw and chilly and the camp looked drear enough. Bell and [Gilbert] Thompson and others treated us handsomely. Bell showed us how to develop dry plates; do not like the process as well as the wet. Showed us his views; there is too much bare glass to make them first-class. Admired his dark tent and the conveniences he had for taking pictures. He (Bell) is heartily sick of the trip. Not inviting us to supper we left at about 4:00 p.m. Met Lieut. Denwoody [William A. Din-widdie] and Gibbons on our way to camp. Nov. 23rd. Bell told us yesterday that a party of them were going to Mt. Trumbull in a day or two and would make us a visit. Cousin Nellie went visiting today and asked me to take the 1:00 p.m. observation, but as we got to pitching quoits, it slipped my mind entirely. Jack boxed up the Indian goods today. Cousin Nellie returned at dark. Spent the evening with her. Nov. 24th. Cousin Nellie again invited out to spend the day and left me in charge of the barometer; kept it this time. In the morning Bell, his assistant, Lieut. Denwoody, Thompson and others came into camp on their way to Mt. Trumbull. We treated them to wine, plenty of tobacco and old overalls. I showed them my collection of blankets and curiosities; thought I had an ex­tensive lot-were quite anxious to buy some of my blankets but I of course, refused. We had a jolly time drinking wine, smoking and cracking jokes. At last we bade them "Au revoir" and hoping to meet them at Salt Lake. Pitched quoits all afternoon. Nov. 25th. Cousin Nellie spends the day at Mrs.'Olliphant's. Wrote up my journal for the last 5 or 6 days in the forenoon. Pitched quoits as usual. At about 4 o'clock was glad to see Prof., "Col." and John Renshaw [e] drive up to camp. John R. is a new­comer. Prof, was surprised not to see the Maj. Spent the evening at the tent. Cousin Nellie made some molasses candy, which was good. Nov. 26th. Last evening 30 Navajos came riding into Kanab and camped at Steward's. They at once scattered out to rustle for wood; we paid them our quota. After breakfast went down to their camp. They had some fine stock. Prof, tried to trade them out of a couple of slashing mules but couldn't. Went out after the animals, could not find them except the colt; drove it up and Prof, tried to trade him to the Navajos but 'twas "no wano." Riley and Dick started for the Buckskin this morning. Prof, and Cousin Nellie went riding toward evening. We saw a dust coming down the road; Cousin Nellie and I made a bet 474 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY that it was and was not the Maj. Cousin Nellie lost her best blanket thereby. Spent the evening at the tent. Nov. 27th. Twenty of the Navajos left for the more north­ern settlements, the others stayed here to trade. At noon went down to the Navajo camp and looked over their stock of blankets; they had some handsome ones. Stayed there all after­noon and saw them trade them off. They traded off the 2 mules to Steward and Tenn[e]y. Lyman Hamblin came in tonight. As we were sitting around the fire the Maj. rode up; said that the rest of the party would be in tomorrow. Jack and I passed the evening with him at the tent. Mai. told me that he had named one of the Dirty Devil Mountains 'Mount Clement"167; I wore the new honor with becoming dignity. The Maj. not having his blankets with him, turned in with me. Nov. 28th. The Maj. called us all up long before daylight. Had breakfast just as the sun was rising. After it was over went out after the horses; got them all up by noon. Cousin Nellie made us a plum-pudding to celebrate Thanksgiving; it was gay. All of us busy boxing up goods, 6 c , 6 c , 6 c , to roll out for Salt Lake City in the morning. I packed the Moquis pottery at the Maj.'s request. The rest of the party came during the afternoon. Gave Fred one of my Navajo blankets. Sat up late around the camp-fire. Went over to Lyman's to see about the amount that he owed me; promised to square up before I left. Spent the evening eating apples and cake, 6 c Nov. 29th. Animals not being shod will not start till to­morrow. Jack and I traded Navajo blankets, I getting 3 for 2. Boxed up my bows and arrows. Fred will send some of his stuff by me to Chicago. Prof, gave me the "Nellie Powell's" flag to give to Steward. We hitched up the team to see how they would work. Joe made a couple of whips; he (Joe) will go to the city with us. Signed 4 vouchers for the Maj.; said he would settle with me at Salt Lake. Got $15.00 from Lyman and a squaw Navajo blanket, so that squared us. Maj. gave Jacob a $35.00 check for John D. Lee, which settles all my accounts. Roasted and ground a peck of coffee at Lyman's, Maj. wondering where I was. Had some wine and candy around the fire. Nov. 30th. All ready for the final start. Fred will stay and help Prof, on his map for a couple of months. Maj., Jack, Andy, Jones, Joe and myself are the party; will take 2 wagons and Jones and myself riding horseback. Prof, sends $125.00 to get him some books, clothes, and a gun. Felt sorry to leave Cousin Nellie, Prof, and Fred behind. I got the rations together while the rest of the fellows packed the wagons. At 10:00 o'clock bade all a final farewell. Reached Johnson's; were treated to cigars. Maj. set- ""Unfortunately the name was not continued in use. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 475 tied with Johnson. Met Willie and his wife just back from Salt Lake. Camped at our old camp above the ranch. Just after supper Fred rode up on "Maj." with a sack of papers that the Maj. had forgotten. Maj. bought a half dozen dressed chickens of Mrs. Adair. We will live high as long as the Maj. is with us. Prof, and Cousin Nellie charged me to say all manner of good things to the folks at home for them. Maj. read us around the camp-fire from Longfellow. Fred bunked with me. Dec. 1st, [1872]. Up long before sunrise; in fact we had breakfast and waited for "Old Sol" for light enough to get the horses. We again bade Fred adieu, he going one way and we the other. Went up the caiion some 10 miles when we struck the Pan­guitch road. Maj. and Jack stayed behind to collect rocks and fos­sils. Went into camp at sundown 3 or 4 miles below Upper Kanab; the others not overtaking us, felt rather uneasy. In about a couple of hours Jack came in from above, said that the Maj. and the wagon were 5 or 6 miles above; had taken another road and thereby passed us. Jack ate his supper and took the Maj.'s to him on "Nigger." Made about 28 miles. 'Tis a most wonderful country, greatly broken by a series of 7 lines of cliffs starting from the Colorado. Saw some magnificent cattle and some fine pasturage at the head of the Kakab [Kanab] Creek. We are just under the rim of the basin with the Pink Cliffs, Table Mountain and Potato a short distance to our right. Have been writing my diary up by the light of the camp-fire with Jones growling about his eyes. Dec. 2nd. Boiled and fried chickens are first-rate; good things to have for breakfast on cold mornings. Started by sun­rise, came up to Maj.'s and Jack's camp, 3 or 4 miles above. My horse has a sore back so now ride in the wagon. Left the other wagon and were soon over the divide and going down the Sevier, with the Pink Cliffs on our right. The Sevier is a bright crystal trout stream constantly growing larger as we advance; we cross it quite frequently. Tis formed by 2 streams coming to­gether and is fed by springs and other streams flowing into it. Have been traveling down a caiion valley [Sevier Valley] quite picturesque and pretty, with here and there a glade among the pines. Saw several wolves, sagebrush, ducks, 6 c , 6 c Made about 30 miles, passed a number of ranches, and camped at sun­down. Maj. and Jack drove in shortly after. Are within 5 or 6 miles of Panguitch. After supper built up a big fire of sage­brush around which we sat, read, talked, sang and smoked till the "Little Dipper" told us to turn in. Dec. 3rd. Night very cold. Up before morning and off by daybreak. Drove into Panguitch on the trot. Bought and fed grain. Bought half a dozen chickens of De Long and were off again. Drove down the Sevier to where it canons, about 17 476 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY or 18 miles below town. Two volcanic ranges on either side of the river. Camped an hour before sundown. Maj. doing some geologizing. Stewed raisins for supper. Night set in cold. Dec. 4th. Off by sunrise. Bad road through the canon, 7 or 8 miles long. Crossed the Sevier a number of times; crossings bad and river frozen. At the opposite end found a wagon in the river with 2 men trying to get it shoreward; woman on the bank mourning. Stove at the bottom of the creek and furniture and truck scattered around, bad driving the result. Helped them out of their difficulty. Stove, furniture, cart, whiskey and apples circulated and we parted, rejoicing. Emerging from the canon into Circle Valley, passing through the deserted town of Circle­ville, a settlement broken up by the Indians a few years ago. The place seemed haunted with its vacant adobes, with staring doors and windows. Passing on down the valley with here and there a lonely ranch, we went into camp sometime after dark on the banks of the Sevier, where I exercised my talents and time making a plum pudding, which proved to be an entire success. The volcanic ranges still on either side. Dec 5th. Started by sunrise. Left Bullionville to our left; passed through Marysvale; climbed over the mountains. Coming down it on this side found a couple of fellows working the road. Nooned and collected rocks. A fine view of snow-capped moun­tains from the top of the divide. Found a whip in the road. Passed through Monroe in the afternoon; bought some flour and grain. Went some 8 miles beyond town. Cut through the ice for water; fire of sagebrush. Finished the plum pudding. It threatened snow but only a few flakes fell. Dec. 6th. As we were getting breakfast the Stewarts and Aimer Tiny [Ammon Tenney] passed us on their way to the city. Maj. and Jack went to Glencove after a Moquis' mill [metate]. Left Richfield to our left. Roads bad, full of chuck holes. Nooned with Stewart and Tiny. Glencove to our right. Passed through Salinee [Salina] in the afternoon. Maj. and Jack overtook at our camp at Willow Creek. Made about 33 miles today. Our drives average 28 or 30 miles per day. Camped at the ranch of a Danishman. Had quite a jolly time around the camp-fire; had to rustle willows for the fire. Mary's Nipple just across the valley on the top of our right volcanic range. Could see the snow-capped top of Mt. Nebo, called the highest peak in Utah.188 The ridges of the mountains all along are covered with snow. ""Bishop's journal for August 29, 1870, shows tiiat this mistaken idea was quite common. With its elevation of 11,871 feet, Mt. Nebo is not even die highest peak of die Wasatch range, and does not compare widi Kings Peak (13,498 alt.) in the Uinta Mountains. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 477 Dec. 7th. Maj. offered me $108.00 for my blankets; refused. Maj. and Jack left us and started for Salt Lake City; will get there on the 9th and we on the 12th, if all is lucky. Reached Gunnison by 10:00 a.m. Bought some grain, 6 c , 6c. Maj. bought some 30,000 lbs. of grain for the stock next summer. It is at this place that Prof, will run the Base-Line next spring. Rolled out to Warm Creek, a small settlement on a creek by that name; nooned. Camped at dark, made a dry camp. Made about 28 miles. No feed except our grain, but plenty of wood. Have been writing my diary up for the last 4 or 5 days. Nights are bitterly cold but the days are quite pleasant. We are finally off the Sevier, having bidden it farewell. We are still passing through the two volcanic ranges. Today we caught a glimpse of the snow-capped Wasatch Mountains. Turned in early. Dec. 8th. [No entry] [Journal ends on page 115. Pages blank until page 162.] [Page 162.] Ancient Moquis reading and writing. Trouble about distributing the U. S. goods. The 2 parties, conservative and progressive. Their garden, peach trees, 6 c , 6 c Throwing Navajos off the mesa. Their wedding and burial ceremonies. Arrangement of the hair. Jealousies between the towns-Tawa, Wallapi, Moquis, Machamaneva, Chemapavites, Shepalavites and Oryba. Watching for the sun to rise. White Indians. Bring­ing animals down the bad places. Wanting some white men to live among them. Packing rocks in their blankets. The convent bell. The picture writings of Oryba. Keeping records to the lord in the canyon. Tawa, a town from the Rio Grande. Maj. packing. Indian Moquis village on the rim of a crater. Their (Pah-Utes) songs and dances. Navajo making a speech. Cutting off donkey's ears. Red, blue, white and yellow corn. [Page 175.] Koggee nee [k?]lace- Pah-Ute eber wat-se- Put it down there. [The following appears on the flyleaf in back of book:] Terrace walls. Different trees in different canons. Mono­tony and variety of canon. Lodore a valley; 'tis a cut through a plateau. Early explorations. Ives' report. Cactus-apples. Caiion being a lake at one time. Buckskin Mountain. Little Colo­rado. Adam's Report.100 Fire-place. Koanivas Indians. Tossed about by waves. The caves. Appearance of Marble Canon from above. Springs and fountains. Finding gold. Lava flowing across the river. Vasey's Spring. Seeing Buckskin Mountain. "This note evidently refers to Samuel Adams who had attempted naviga­tion of the Grand River in 1869 and in the same year asked Congress for re­imbursement of expenses. Powell makes no mention of Adams, but this entry would indicate he was familiar with Adams' report and tiiat Clem intended making some comment on it. 478 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY Heavy timber. Finding silver mines. See page 21st. [Latter part of Aug. 21st entry.] "Salvation is free." Finding gold. Five thousand feet of shales bent in the shape of a letter "S." Iretaba, guide of Lieut. Ives. Jack Sumner's advice. Spanish explorations. Jack spraining his back. Coronado. Big rapid. Ex­tinct volcano. Drinking clay water. Prof, knocked out of his boat. Two hard days' portage at one rapid. Woebegone ap­pearance of the party. Rainy, 6 c Camp on granite rocks. Ap­pearance of Grand Canon. Narrow walls. Boats lashed to the sides of the cliff. Wild riding. Anxious night. Great height of the water. Leaving articles. Busting the boats. Last year a pleasure trip. Running the bad rapid. Seeing nothing but oars and heads. Caiion damming up the high water. Prof.'s extract of botany. Throwing away things. Deacon losing his straw hat. Effect of said articles on miners below. Colorado, the Sockdologer of the world. Stories of the Colorado. The "Dean's" sad ad­ventures on the 3rd of Sept. Fitting state of the water. Maj. nearly losing his life. Whirlpools and boils on the river. High state of the water. Find clear little pockets of water in granite basins. Railroad ties, 6 c , drifting down. Comical aspect of Maj. when emerging from the whirlpool. Friendly sandstone. Vista down the granite, fine view. Narrowness of the river in granite. J. K. Hillers, cor., Montgomery and Pacific Streets, San Fran­cisco. [On flyleaf opposite back cover appears the following, evi­dently a list of photographs taken:] No. 1-Caiion, foot of Potato Valley No. 2-Upper Johnson's Caiion No. 3- " No. 4-Sandstone desert from Potato Valley No. 5-Canon, foot Potato Valley No. 6-Looking down gulch near Potato Valley No. 7-Canon, foot Potato Valley No. 8-Hog's Back, looking north No. 9- " west No. 10- " south 8% on 11 rapids 1 portage 108 miles 118 rapids run 6 Sport 7