Utah Historical Quarterly Volume XVI - XVII

Journal of W. C. Powell, edited by Charles Kelly - 6

JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 429 by us in Potato Valley should be stolen by Indians, or other "varmints," starvation and the most serious consequences would ensue. Returning we saw fresh tracks of 4 shod horses. We exer­cised our Yankee gift of guessing in vain to explain the dis­covery. Not far beyond a trail of shod horses appeared, con­vincing us that our men were homeward bound, having made a detour from their first route; hence we had missed them. Arrived at camp we found the party in possession, safe and sound. The meeting gave us new spirits, and considerably re­vived the old ones. Thompson struck a spur of the Wahsatch and followed it until opposite the Unknown Mountains, then crossed the deeply channeled sandstone desert, climbed the mountains and made observations therefrom. Smoke was seen in the distance, sure sign of Indians. They camped that night in a gulch, watching sharply. Next morning the little party sur­prised the Indian village, riding within a few yards of the lodges. Two old squaws gave the alarm and in a twinkling every brave was scattering among the sand hills. The squaws advanced, brandishing knives and screeching: "Impo-per-shog?" (What do you want?). The boys were not much scared. An old man left behind, so frightened he could not fly, finally advanced to the parley. The miscreants are ever ready to steal or murder when their victims are defenseless. A show of repeating rifles however, scares them wonderfully. Cigarettes were smoked, and at last the skulkers came straggling in. Inquiries about the direction to the Dirty Devil now proved of little avail. Thompson made proposals for a guide, but the redskins intimated that a gift of a horse would be an acceptable preliminary to negotiations. Last summer Ham[b]lin, our scout and train commander, went to Red Lake, where the river heads, and offered a horse and trinkets to be shown the way. The Utes refused, declaring that red men afoot might get down, but horses, never. The trip was then therefore given up. The "Prof.," more persevering, made the effort and succeeded, 15 days in all, being required. The boat was found and was started down the Colorado with a photo­grapher and 3 men."8 The mountain work was very severe. Furious snow storms and freezing cold weather were experienced on the high and rugged peaks. Glowing descriptions were given of Cascade Creek."8 It is a brook, crystal clear, falling a thousand feet from the mountain side, sparkling and glowing with prismatic tints. The scenery of the Wahsatch seems attractive to men accustomed for a year to landscapes of sage and sand. The first "•Fennemore, Hillers, Dellenbaugh, and Johnson. ""Cascade Creek probably refers to Trachyte Creek, largest stream in die Henrys, along which Thompson traveled. 430 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY night we were out after the prodigals they were camped 2 miles below us on the same creek."7 Once more at Kanab, preparations for running Grand Canon are now in order. We learn that our suspicions of foul play by the Indians were not unfounded. The party with a pony that followed Thompson's trail, finding the white men too well armed and watchful to render an attack a safe investment, turned to­ward Beaver. A Mormon was shot on his way to mill, his 4 horses and other valuables stolen, wagon and load destroyed. The trail of the thieves, home returning, was the one that puzzled us. About the same time Mr. Muller [Dan Miller], the Navajo Indian Agent, was killed by the Elk Mountain Utes. Miller, with 3 men, was on his way to call a council of that tribe, distribute presents and get the Indians on a reservation. When near their camp he was surprised at daybreak and shot. His men escaped.188 Thus the sequel shows that the frontiersman-in real life as in the sensational romance-must gain his knowledge of passing events and base his actions upon such slight signs as a cloud of dust on the desert, smoke on the mountain, a chance footstep by the waterside, a broken twig in the forest. Clement Powell. JJ"Clem does not give a very clear account of the activities of Thompson after Jones and Clem went back to Kanab for supplies. From Potato Valley Thompson's party continued north to what they called Table Mountain, later named Aquarius Plateau but locally known as Boulder Mountain, discovering and naming Boulder Creek, Pleasant Creek, and otiiers. From this elevated point they could see all of the Henry Mountains and some features of die Dirty Devil drainage area. Capt. Dodds had almost reached tiiis point pre­viously with Jacob Hamblin before turning back. Now Thompson discovered, after carefully studying the country which lay spread out like a map below, diat the stream he took to be the Dirty Devil was in fact an undiscovered and unnamed stream entering the Colorado farther south, the mouth of which Major Powell had failed to identify on his original voyage through Glen Canyon. Making their way down Pleasant Creek, tiiey named a side stream Tantalus Creek, then continued over a difficult, broken, dry desert to another stream tiiey called Trachyte Creek, which emptied into the Colorado opposite the stone tower they had seen in Glen Canyon. Realizing tiiey were too far south, Thompson left this canyon, crossing north to another now known as North Wash, which he followed to the Colorado. Two miles above tiiis point he finally reached the mouth of the Dirty Devil. They did not, how­ever, explore it any great distance upstream, die determination of its upper course being left to others. While passing through Glen Canyon in the "Canonita," Dellenbaugh, Hillers, Fennemore, and Johnson kept a careful lookout and on July 8, 1872, finally identified the half-hidden mouth of die Escalante River. They reached die Paria's mouth on July 13, and 2 days later were joined tiiere, as Clem's fourth diary makes note, by Clem and Hattan, in advance of the rest of the party. ""For a more detailed account of the massacre of Miller's party, see J. H. Beadle, Western Wilds and the Men Who Redeem Them, Cincinnati, 1875, pp. 251, 252. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 431 July 10th, [1872].188 Spent the morning at Prof.'s tent. Wrote a letter to Morris. Prof, told me that Andy and myself were to go down to the Pahria to meet the boys on the river. Ate dinner at Jacob Hamblin's with Prof, and wife. Rained about all day. Read one of my letters in "Chicago Tribune." Spent the even­ing at Lyman's pleasantly. Plenty of Indians with berries to sell. During die evening a squaw being sick, a regular Indian pow-wow was held; 'twas interesting. Cousin Nellie sent down some cake for supper. July 11th. Got my things ready for the river, 6 c Went down after the horses and drove them up. Mailed letter and my diary No. 3rd to Morris. Loaded up the wagon. Had dinner. Bade Cousin Nellie farewell and then Prof., George, and Jones started for the Navajo Well, Andy and I following with the wagon. Reached it about an hour after dark. Mrs. Adair sent a small cheese down to the boys. Lyman Hamblin gave me the Navajo blanket. I gave him an order on the Maj. for $15 to buy me some Indian traps on his visit north. July 12th. After breakfast Andy and I left the party to climb point "B" while we continued our journey to the Pahria. Had not gone over 3 or 4 miles before we got stalled; had to unload the wagon and make a portage. Went a mile or so farther and was stalled again and, of course, another portage longer than the first. The roads are very bad. Lucky that we have plenty of water in kegs, for the weather is fearful hot. Commenced climbing the Buckskin about 4:00 p.m.-reached the ""Here begins Volume IV of Clem's journal. On die verso of die second flyleaf appears a message as follows: Dec. 31st, 1871 Brodier Clement, This is a dark and rainy Sunday, die last day of die old year, a time most opportune for retrospection. As the year passes in review many tender memories of you come thronging. In preparing for the year that dawns tomorrow you enter largely into every plan. In times of peril and privation, in hours of weariness or pain, let this thought cheer and stimulate, you are not forgotten at home. Soon tiiis little book will begin its long journey to Kanab; its blank pages to be filled with the record of your daily life. Seek information from all sources, sharply observing men and manners. In die country of wonders through which you pass, Nature meets you face to face with lessons in rock and river, plain and valley, wind and cloud- study them well. Write constantly and minutely, collect large stores of facts and a library of description. When classified and arranged. In time of larger leisure, it will prove the most interesting and instruc­tive story of your life. Faidifully M B. P. [Morris B. Powell] 432 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY summit at dark and camped. Could find no water for the horses. Have made about 25 miles. Camped in among the pines. Feel very tired and hungry. Had a good supper and bed. July 13th. Up early and breakfast over. Had considerable trouble in getting the wagon started. Reached House Rock Valley by 10:00 a.m. Road better. At one place I hunted for water but could not find any. Three miles farther on came to House Rock Springs. Left the wagon in the road a mile from the Springs. As soon as the Maj.'s Thunderbolts were unhitched they lined out for the Springs (they recognized it); we followed on the mules. Everything looked natural. Found a stone hut built near the Springs, but no one in it. The animals drank heartily while we filled our kegs. Nooned for a couple of hours, and then started through the heavy sand for Jacob's Pools, 14 miles away. Reached them by sunset. A brush hut and a couple of pretty Mormon girls are the latest improvements. The girls said that their father, John D. Lee, was at the Pahria. Supper and then our blankets. July 14th. Had considerable trouble in finding the horses, but finally got started on our way. The road is heavy with sand and the wagon heavily loaded. Saw Axe Mtn. across the Colorado. Marble Canon presents a curious spectacle; it seemed like a hole in the ground. Camped for noon at the second creek 15 miles from Pools and the mouth of the Pahria. Hitched up again. Commenced to rain. Toward evening met Lee on his way back to the Pools. Also met Johnson going back to Kanab. Said that the boys had got in yesterday, the 13th; that all was O.K., 6c; that they were out of grub. Gave him some sugar and coffee. Went within 6 or 8 miles of the Pahria and camped. Found that I had lost my Navajo blanket from the wagon. Went back some 3 or 4 miles to where we met Lee but could not find it. Hope that Lee or Johnson will. Went to bed pretty well tired. July 15th. Our way this morning led us over some steep gullies and at one place we had another portage to make; worked hard in the broiling sun. The road is very winding. At last we got within a mile of camp and came to a bad sideling place. Concluded to get the boys to help us. Went down to the Pahria and called to them. Of course we were glad to see each other. After a good deal of trouble got the wagon to the Pahria (could not cross it) under a clump of willows. Our weary journey is over with, thank Heaven. Gave the boys their mail. While waiting for us the boys have been boarding with Mrs. Lee, No. the 18th.1" A small cabin stands near with 2 or 3 acres of "This was Emma Batchelder Lee, a handcart immigrant from England, actually wife No. 17. Lee's wife, Rachel, was No. 6. After Lee's execution in 1877, Rachel moved to Thatcher, Arizona. Emma remained at the ferry JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 433 cultivated ground. We were invited to a good substantial dinner. Mrs. Lee lives here with 7 small children, alone part of the time, Lee dividing his time between here, the Pools and House Rock. We spent the afternoon bridging the Pahria or Pah-Weep, rather, the proper Indian name. 'Tis a dirty devil of a stream. Took supper at Mrs. Lee's, who invited us to breakfast and to work on the dam; we accepted both invitations. July 16th. Breakfast at Mrs. Lee's, while the boys worked on the dam. I went up the caiion 4 or 5 miles to see after the horses. Came back in time for a gay dinner at Lee's and some home-made beer. In the afternoon had a good bath in the Colorado; did some washing, 6 c Supper at Mrs. Lee's. July 17th. Cooked breakfast in camp and commenced caulk­ing and repairing the "Emma Dean." (I must not forget to mention that Cousin Nellie sent down 3 beautiful flags for the boats.) Mrs. Lee sent word to us to come and help fix the dam again; it had broken away during the night. All went but Jack, who was fixing the boat. While fixing the dam a freshet came sweeping down, undoing all that we had done and pre­venting us from doing more. On coming back found a nice dinner waiting for us. Went over for Jack but found our bridge swept away. Andy swam across while we made another one by throwing some poles across the stream. Read most of the day. July 18th. Jack, Andy and I worked on the "Dean" in the morning. In the afternoon commenced a letter to Morris. Do not feel very well. July 19th. Sick almost in the morning. Read a little. Fred got dinner and Andy painting the boat. After dinner Mrs. Lee sent word that our horses were trying to take the back trail. We went over and drove them back up the canon. Received another invitation to work on the dam. Accepted it and lost our shovel; Andy swore. Supper at Mrs. Lee's. July 20th. All the morning in packing the rations, 6c, across the Pahria; had to wade the river. Weather very hot, thermometer standing 110° in the shade. Fenny got dinner. Read and slept the rest of the day. We are beginning to look for Maj. 6 Prof. July 21st. Writing to Morris during the forenoon. "Brother" Lee made us a visit in the afternoon and regaled us with the doctrines of the Latter-day Saints; boasts of having 18 wives and 62 children. He found my blanket shortly after he left us a week ago today. Rained most of the afternoon. Think until removed by die Mormon Church, then went to Holbrook, Arizona, where she married a man named French and became a famous frontier nurse and midwife. 434 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY Lee is a little crazy. Had a swim in the river; spent the evening singing. July 22nd. After breakfast we hauled the "Nellie Powell" out from her shelter and found her unseaworthy, so much so, in fact, that we could do nothing with her at present, and so put her back again. Washed up my entire outfit of clothing and then washed myself, shaved, 6 c Wrote up my diary in the afternoon. Read some. Jack, Fred, and Andy crossed the river in the "Emma" and got the oars that were cached over there. I prepared supper; made slapjacks, 6 c , 6c, 6 c The river is steadily falling and growing colder. We are beginning to won­der why the Maj. and Prof, don't come. Fenny talks of leav­ing the party. Jack, Fred, and I spent the evening singing. July 23rd. In the morning fixed up my personal sacks, 6c. Am not feeling well. Commenced "Overland"; like it. Rained in the afternoon and evening. Spent evening as usual. July 24th. After breakfast received a note from Lee in­viting me to spend the 24th, "The anniversary of Mormon Independence (?)."141 We accepted. Had a good dinner. The Old Gent regaled us with sermons, jokes, cards, 6c, 6c, 6c. Andy went up the caiion to see after the horses. Had supper at Lee's. Reached camp after dark, wondering why the Maj, 6 Prof, don't come. July 25th. All spent the day in doing little odds and ends; built a shade, 6 c , and finished "Overland." Weather intensely hot. No party in as yet. River growing muddy and rising from the frequent showers. Got supper for the boys. July 26th. Up early and got breakfast. Read some. Con­tinued my letter to Morris. Day very hot. July 27th. Writing most all day to Morris. River falling again, settling. Thermometer 110°. July 28th. Jack, Fenny, and I cleaned about 75 glass. Toward evening received an invitation for supper at Lee's. Spent evening pleasantly. July 29th. Cleaned about 75 more glass this morning. Spent the day mostly in re-reading old papers, 6 c Jack made a ground glass for me. Killed a rattle-snake under the cliff. Fred has been trying to emulate the "hero of Chappauquach," i.e., plowing for "Brother Lee." Fred returned late from Lee's with a lame foot. July 30th. Finished cleaning glass. Spent the day in doing anything to kill time; are getting sick and lazy. Fred, Jack and I fired at a mark in the evening. ""Pioneer Day, commemorating die arrival of the pioneers in the Salt Lake Valley, not "Mormon Independence Day." At that time the terms were prac­tically synonymous. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 435 July 31st. Another day wasted and spent in idleness. Ther­mometer regularly reaches 110° above zero. (F) Fenny118 is taken sick, is consumptive and says that he will quit. Went in swimming. Spend the days in discussions, 6 c Aug. 1st, [1872]. Went swimming in the cool of the morning. Marked my negatives. Fired at geese. River steadily falling and getting clearer. Fenny spent the day at Lee's on account of his health; returned in the evening feeling much worse. Aug. 2nd. Did some washing; went swimming, 6 c Jack went with Fenny to Lee's. F. is feeling no better, of course. Jack was invited to make a harrow and spend the day there. He and Fenny returned in the evening with some corn and squashes. I cut Fred's and Jack's hair and Fred cut mine in return. Some of Lee's folks coming in from Kanab, said that the Maj. had not come in up to Monday last. Aug. 3rd. We meant to send our letters out by a couple of boys going to Kanab, but were too late, they having started the night before. Went over to Lee's after my Navajo blanket; found it O.K. Jack went over to finish his work. We spent the days studying, reading, swimming, sleeping, eating, 6c Had our corn and squashes today. Vegetables are doing us a pile of good at this season of the year. Had a hard head-ache all day long. Jack returned toward evening, Fenny did not. Aug. 4th. Fenny came over this morning with an invitation from "Bro." Lee to spend the day. We had a council of war, decided to draw cuts as to who should go to Kanab to let them know about Fenny's leaving, more rations, 6 c , 6 c Fred was the lucky man"8 so Jack and I went up the caiion some 8 or 10 miles after the horses through the broiling hot sun and sand. I never felt so used up in my life; ached all over. Did not get back till about 5:00 p.m. Sent 5 letters out by Fred to Morris and one to Cousin Nellie. Took supper at Lee's. At night we had a good swim and a good bath. Fred started out at about 6:00 p.m. intending to reach Jacob's Pools by midnight. Aug. 5th. Hard at work all day long killing time. My walk yesterday has made me about sick. 143James Fennemore, 23 years old, overcame his illness, later photographed the execution of John D. Lee, and died in Phoenix, Ariz., in 1941 at die age of 92, being the last survivor of Powell's expeditions. He designed a new light-weight camera which was for many years a standard model. See also M. Darrah's sketch of Fennemore, pp. 492-495. •"Dellenbaugh writes: We concluded tiiat one of us must go to Kanab to inform Prof, of the state of affairs, and Clem in his big-hearted way offered to do this, but we knew tiiat his sense of locality was defective and diat he might get lost. Consequentiy we played on him an innocent trick. . . . I planned with Andy tiiat we three were to draw cuts for die honour of die ride and that Andy was to let me draw die fatal one. Clem was greatly disappointed. 436 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY Aug. 6th. Wrote a letter to Fred Dudley. About noon Jack and I took over a little coffee and some flour to Lee's for Fenny's rations. He, Fenny, is boarding there now. Had dinner and spent the rest of the day there. Anything, Great Heaven-anything to kill time. Returned towards night. Lee gave us a few squashes and some onions. Aug. 7th. Day spent as usual. Wrote a letter to Belle. Took a swim in the river. Commenced a letter to Cousin Lou. Aug. 8th. Worked very hard all day long, that is, at do­ing nothing, succeeded admirably. Clouded up in the after­noon and commenced raining. It was a change and we en­joyed it and the camp-fire at night. Aug. 9th. Fenny is beginning to feel better now. The day is quite cool and pleasant. We sat around the cheerful camp-fire quite late last evening talking and watching a pot of beans. This morning saw some geese up the river, so we took a boat and went across after them, but they were gone when we got there. Had a pleasant ride a mile or two up the canon, how­ever. Lounged about till near 6 o'clock, when we heard our signal shots down the river. Answered them and hastened down about a mile to "the bad place" and found Fred, Jones, and Lyman Hamblin with 4 broncho mules and a wagon stalled. Made a portage and reached camp by dark. Andy and I got supper for the boys. Four letters and some papers for me, 2 from Morris and one each from Fanny and Mrs. Stevens. Maj. did not get to Kanab till Friday last. Prof., Maj., Prof. De Motte,1" and George Adair [went] over on the Buckskin hunting for a place to take provisions down to the boats. Will be here in about a week. Aug. 10th. The boys brought down some rations and vegetables, potatoes, salmon, oysters, 6 c Report Uintah [sic] Indians on the war-path raising "h'ar" and Ned in general. Johnson going to Salt Lake. Bishop driving team for the Maj. Fred thinks it doubtful whether we go on down the river. I would like to see the Grand Canon if they would only rush through it. Carried the rations over from the wagon. Was glad to re­ceive such good news from home. Mrs. Hamblin sent me a pair of stockings. J. F. Steward sent by the Maj., a 5# box of candy for the "Boys." Three cheers for Steward. Aug. 11th. We are only to take 2 boats down. Took the iron off the "Nell" and fixed the "Canonita"; put on new canvas and painted it. Lee sent over some green corn and squashes; wants 50# of flour for it; gave him about 15# or 20#. "*Prof. H. C. DeMotte, from Wesleyan College, Bloomington, I1L, came west at Powell's invitation. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 437 Lyman and I took a ride up the river towards evening. Fenny made some lemonade. Spent the day in reading, 6 c Jack and I packed up the chemicals to send back. Aug. 12th. Looking for the party all day long, reading, sleeping, talking, 6 c Spent the evening pleasantly singing, 6 c Aug. 13th. Day spent as usual. At about 5 o'clock p.m. heard our signal shots down the trail and knew that the party had at last arrived, Maj., Prof., Thompson, Cousin Nellie, Prof. DeMotte, George Adair, and Indian Ben, a guide. Of course we were all very glad to see them- Jones, Jack, and Fred took Cousin Nellie and De Motte a boat-riding up the river a mile or so. Maj., Jack, and I had a long talk about mother and things, 6c, 6c, 6 c "Brother" Lee invited the new-comers over to supper. After their return had a long talk with Prof, and Cousin Nellie. Maj. and Prof. De Motte entertained us till bed time. Aug. 14th. At work all morning packing and sacking ra­tions, chemicals, 6 c , 6 c , 6 c Before breakfast amused ourselves by firing at a mark across the river. Prof. De Motte climbed a cliff to obtain a geological section for the Maj. After dinner Fred and I rowed Maj. and Prof, down to the head of the rapid to see if we could run it; found that we could. Returned, packed the boats and ran the rapid with Cousin Nellie aboard the "Canonita." Dropped down just below the rapid about a mile from our last camp. Will then start down the caiion in a day or so. Aug. 15th. Wrote a letter to Mrs. Stevens and then took a picture or two. Jack and I then went over to Lee's to help them catch the horses and mules for the wagons. Had dinner there; Cousin Nellie and I waited for the second table. After dinner bade farewell to Cousin Nellie, Prof. De Motte, Fennemore, Ly­man Hamblin and George Adair. Fenny has been quite sick for the last day or two, but is feeling a little better now. The wagons took back all the baggage, 6 c Signed a couple of vouchers for the Maj. Sent letters out by Cousin Nellie to Mrs. Stevens, Belle and Fred Dudley. Had some melons. Jack and I went over to our old camp and put back the "Nell" in her old place; Maj. has sold it to Jacob Hamblin.148 Took some squashes back "The "Neflie Powell" was used as a ferry until Lee built a larger barge, when it was left lying in die sand. It was seen in 1912 by Sharlot M. Hall, Arizona historian. When Julius Stone's 1938 expedition reached Lees Ferry, Mr. Stone was told by Leo Weaver that an old boat with the name "Nellie Powell" still visible had been found the previous year among some willows. Hunting with flashlights at midnight, members of this party found parts of it and next morning dug up a section three feet long. In burning off willows most of the boat had been destroyed, but what remained was sent to the museum at Grand Canyon National Park. 438 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY to camp. Cut some willows for our bed. Had a good supper and a pleasant time talking at night. Aug. 16th. At work all day fixing the boats, caulking, putting on extra planking, 6 c , 6 c We are only to take two boats and the old crews, viz., "Emma Dean." Fred, Maj., Jack and Jones; "Canonita," Powell, Andy, and Prof. At noon Bea­man and [James] Carlton came in on their way to the Moquis.1" They are at work fixing up the "Nell" to cross the river with. Rained during the afternoon. Maj. and Fred climbed out. Aug. 17th. This morning Maj. decided to take down only one photographing outfit; Jack and I cached the other at Lee's. Got some melons and bade Mrs. Lee No. 17 good-bye. Left camp and started down Marble Canon at about 10 o'clock a.m. The Maj. had walked down a mile or more when we took him aboard. The walls are low at first, some 200 feet in height, but are rapidly increasing as we proceed. The water is higher than usual and we soon come to our old friend, the rapids, running one after the other in succession. Seven have rolled away and we land on the left bank for dinner and pictures. The walls are now 700 or 800 feet high and mostly vertical from the water's edge-are of gray sandstone, but we are running it up and the red sandstone is beginning to appear. The first thing after dinner is a good-sized rapid and then an old-fashioned portage. After that is over with, 4 more rapids, and we land at the head of portage No. 2 and camp for the night on right bank among the rocks. Have not felt so tired in a long time. Can enjoy a hearty supper. Have made about 11 miles, Went to bed early. Aug. 18th. After breakfast made a portage and let down the boats, then made 2 or 3 negatives. In making portage with the boats, dragged the boats over the rocks. Are rapidly running up the walls of gray sandstone. Seams of coal are seen and limestone is beginning to appear from beneath. The water is high and, of course swift; full of whirlpools and boils that cause us some hard pulling. Ran several rapids and at 11:45 camped on left bank for dinner. Had to climb up a vertical wall of 25 feet and cooked under a ledge of rocks. Took 3 negatives. Jack burnt his foot badly. After dinner pulled out into a big rapid and from that to another which proved to be a portage; the next one a let-down. Went into camp at 5:30 on right bank. Have run 10 rapids, 3 of them "Old Roarers." Made one portage and one let-down. Ran about 10 miles. We are now nightly lulled to sleep by the music (?) of the waves, a drear joy I take it. The walls now 1MBeaman was enroute to the Hopi villages to take photographs for maga­zine articles on his own account. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 439 are some 1200 feet in height, of gray and red sandstone with a bedding of limestone which we are running up. Aug. 19th. Commenced the day's work by running 2 big rapids in succession. In running the last one the "Canonita" came near knocking the cliff down, but the cliff would not give worth a cent, but the boat was badly jammed on her nozzle which caused her to be unloaded and pulled upon the sand at night for repairs. We then made a portage, Jack and I taking pictures afterwards while Andy cooked dinner on left bank. I took a couple of instantaneous views of the rapid. After dinner ran a couple of more big rapids and let down 3 times in succession. Only made 4% miles. Camped on the left bank. Rained about all night. Aug. 20th. Broke camp at 7:30 a.m., running a big rapid just below and then making a land portage on left bank, then ran rapid after rapid in one of which we stove a hole in front standing room of the "Canonita." Landed at the head of a big rapid for repairs, pictures, and dinner. Gulch coming in off the left. After dinner ran the rapid nicely but shipped a good deal of water. The marble is beginning to appear and at our night's camp on right bank is over 100 feet in height. The walls are terraced as the different formations come up-first the sandstone, then the limestone and now the marble-colored- a beautiful pink but worthless from the amount of dirt in it, though perhaps by quarrying it would improve. Caiion walls are now about 2000 feet high. Made some pictures at our night's camp. A deep narrow caiion on right. Vasey's Spring gushes from right wall some 200 feet from the river, about half a mile below camp. Maj. and some of the boys went down to see it. Found that the negatives that we have taken so far are spoiled by water. Maj. did not like it but 'twas Prof.'s fault. Made 6% miles one portage; ran 12 rapids today. Aug. 21st. Broke camp at 8:00 a.m. Ran a few rapids. Stopped for a couple of pictures then ran down to a large cave on the left bank-took a picture of it. Had Jones's footprints for a foreground. Ran down a couple of miles farther and landed on right bank for dinner and pictures. Pulled out again at 2:00 p.m. and continued our career of rapid running. Ran a couple of the biggest rapids we have run or seen on the river; both boats nearly filled with water. Meskeet [Mesquite] is beginning to appear; is the characteristic [shrub] of this caiion and is a species of the locust. The caiion is narrow with vertical walls rising from the water's edge. At a great many of the rapids we have run, no foot-hold could be obtained for portages. Walls are now 3000 feet, towering up in terraces and blending their tracery with that of the sky above. The first terrace is that of marble rising vertically for 1000 feet; is 440 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY mostly grayish-white veined with red chalcedony. Ran 10 rapids and made 12% miles. Went into camp at 6:00 p.m. on left bank on a sandbank. At the gray dusk of evening, just after landing, camps wear their most picturesque garb. Maj. and Prof, looking over maps and books; others spreading blankets or attending to other little duties. Andy preparing supper. The darkness increases, the camp-fire grows brighter. The stars come out one by one in the narrow rift of blue that seems so far away. Two boats, bruised and battered but still so graceful in outline and symmetry, swing idly at the bank. We look at them with feelings of pride and trust; we look to them to carry us safely to the outside world. We gather around our meal and discuss the events of the past day. Cigarettes are then made and lighted and consumed. Silence overtakes us. The moonbeams are creeping softly downwards. One by one the explorers roll up in their blankets. The camp-fire dims out Danger, privation and toil are forgotten and our thoughts are of our far-away homes. The moonbeams are at the foot of the opposite cliff and we are lulled to sleep by the roar of the rapids below us. Aug. 22nd. Took a couple of pictures before starting. Broke camp at 8:30 a.m. Ran 4 or 5 good-sized rapids. Stopped for a couple of negatives on left bank. Canon narrow and broken into peaks and crags. Stopped for dinner on the right bank at the mouth of a gulch or caiion coming from the Buck­skin. Made some more views. Prof, found a garden of cactus-apples. We enjoyed a feast of them for dinner. Started again at 1:30. We have run the marble up and some 200 or 300 feet of green shales are beginning to appear, proving that the river had been dammed up below by lava and a lake formed here. Stopped for pictures on a little sand bar. Fred and Jones rowed upstream for a fore-ground. Passed a couple coming in from the right through which we could see the Buckskin heavily wooded and rising up some 5000 feet above. The immediate canon walls are about 3500 feet in height, of marble, shale, limestone and the sandstones. Came to the head of a long rough rapid and had to make a line portage-then ran several more. At about 4:00 p.m. came to the mouth of the Little Colorado, a stream about 3 rods wide by 2 feet deep and as disgusting a stream as one ever set eyes upon. Its waters are of a bright red and very salty, rendering it unpalatable. 'Tis the division line between Marble and Grand canons. Huge grand rocks guard the entrance to the latter canon. Walls about 3000 feet. The Chichata [Chiquita] comes in on the southeast side. Left the boats at the junction and carried the things up the little muddy stream about half a mile under the shade of some meskeet. Carried our water from the Colorado. Made 18% miles; ran JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 441 18 rapids, too. Camped on the left bank. Marble Canon is 62 [ ] in length. Ran 62 rapids. Made 4 portages and let down by line 5 times. Aug. 23rd. After breakfast Jack, Fred and I crossed the Little Colorado, Jack and I to take pictures and Fred to climb. Returned at noon, took a few pictures and fixed chemicals in the afternoon. An old fire-place on Indian trail found near camp. Prof, and Jones taking observations nearly all day. Maj. climbed for a geological section. Spent the evening as usual till bed time. Aug. 24th. Broke camp at 10:15, Prof, taking a Lunar meanwhile. Of course our work commenced by running a rapid, with others following in quick succession, in some of which we shipped considerable water. We are at length in the Grand Canon of the Colorado but to our eyes there is not much difference in appearance from other canons of the river. Dropped down about 6 miles when we came to a fissure from whence lava flowed, damming the river. Volcanic rocks are scattered about. Went into camp at 11:00 a.m., had dinner, then Jack and I took some pictures while Maj., Prof, and Fred climbed out for geological purposes. When they returned said that we were 6500 feet below the top of the Buckskin which, in reality, was the right wall of the river. Maj. said that we should remain here for a day or two for geological work. We are camped at the head of a big rapid which the Maj. made a portage at before, but which we will run. Am not very well and feel played out. Aug. 25th. Rowed the Maj. and Prof, across the river this morning to examine the volcanic ledge just opposite camp. We found some good specimens of silver ore and have no doubt discovered a silver mine, but how rich it is there is no telling."7 After dinner Maj., Prof., Jones, and Fred climbed out. I took 1 o'clock observations for Jones. Have been writing up my diary to date. Forgot to say yesterday that we ran 6 rapids, 4 of them big ones. We are running lazier rapids than we did last year-'tis far easier than making a portage. Of course we ship some water but that is of no consequence. Have been ""Clem Powell, Fred Dellenbaugh, and S. V. Jones, all make specific mention of finding minerals. In an undated letter to the Chicago Tribune found In die New York Public Library's Dellenbaugh Collection, in which Clem describes this voyage through the Grand Canyon, he writes: "While examining an ancient volcanic ledge silver and copper ore was discovered. . . . Numerous specimens were obtained and will be assayed. We have prospected for gold along the river. Wherever a shovel-full of sand is turned over 'color' can be found. Where it comes from is a question many a miner has tried to answer." Robert B. Stanton, in 1890, found mineral in this same locality and staked claims. He also built a dredge to separate placer gold from die sand, but it was unsuccessful. 442 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY reading Ives' Report all afternoon.148 Toward evening Maj., Prof., Fred and Jones came in from a climb. Maj. says he has solved the mystery of the world and is glad salvation is free. Aug. 26th. Prof., Fred and self went across the river to measure a Base-Line. On coming back Maj., Prof., Jones, and Fred went out for an all-day climb to hunt for fossils and to study a "Fault" near here. Jack and I rowed half a mile up the river to take 3 or 4 views. Took the afternoon observation. Jones broke the barometer this morning-Maj. mad. I have hurt my back some way and 'tis paining me badly. Am feeling utterly miserable and gloomy. My head aches and I feel mean and sick all over-took a large dose of pills. Rained a little during the afternoon. At dark the boys returned. Fred brought in some cactus-apples that he found in coming down. All are feeling pretty tired. Aug. 27th. Another barometer broken this morning. Maj. "Towich-a-tio-a bum." He and Fred started out for a short climb, returned in a couple of hours. Prof, filled another baro­meter tube. The weather is extremely hot and oppressive, though at night a cool breeze comes up the canon. Am feeling no better. Took some more pills. Broke camp at 10:00 a.m. Ran a big rapid to begin with without shipping much water and then 9 rapids more, making 10 in 7 miles, when we went into camp on the left bank. Saw a couple of mountain sheep. Fred and Andy gave chase but could not get a shot. We are now running through basalt rocks. Will camp here the rest of the day-Maj. wishes to geologize. Jones, Maj., and Fred crossed the river for that purpose. Prof, and I climbed a peak about 500 feet high to take a topographical sketch. The walls of the canon are 5000 or 6000 feet high but stand somewhat back from the river. Numerous cliffs of different heights, broken, ragged, and in all imaginable shapes intervene. Found an old stone house evidendy built by the Sto-ce nee nas."8 Returned at supper time but the rest did not get in till after dark. Evening spent as usual. Aug. 28th. Started out at 7:30 and again commenced our weary work of running rapids and making portages. Ran 5 rapids when we came to a let-down; made it. In running a long shallow rapid the "Canonita" grounded on a shoal of rocks, springing her blanking [planking?] somewhat. As we were leaving the basalt Maj. stopped to examine them. Jack, Jones, and I dropped down a mile or so and took a couple of ""In 1858 Lieut. Ives had come up die Colorado from tidewater to Vegas Wash. In 1871 Lieut Wheeler came upstream to Diamond Creek, thus over­lapping Powell's exploration of 1869. "This appellative does not appear in Hodge's Handbook of American Indians. Presumably it refers to Coconinas. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 443 fine negatives. The other boat coming up, we had dinner on left bank. We have now come to the quartzite and of course will find some bad falls and rapids. After dinner ran a big rapid and came to another let-down, then ran another small rapid when we came to the worst rapid we have yet seen on the river. We let down the boats a short way through a hard rain and hail storm-came pretty near freezing. Each took a rock for shelter till after the storm was over, then made a portage of half a mile, but still over half of the rapid is below us-but, thank Heaven, we can run the rest of it. Commenced raining again so went into camp on left bank. Put up our tents and made things snug for a disagreeable night. Supper tasted good. Have only made 6 miles. At this rate will never get to the Kanab Wash. Have again come to the old red sandstone walls, on left bank 4000 feet, on right 5000. Jack sprained his back badly; am afraid it has used him up for a time. We are just getting into the worst place on the whole river. If we can sur­vive for the next 2 or 3 days will be all right to the Kanab Wash, at least. Grand Canon so far has not come up to my expecta­tions. Aug. 29th. Rained some during the night. Jack's back pretty bad. Did not leave camp till 10:00 o'clock. Andy took Jack's place to run the rest of rapids, then walked back to our boat and we ran the rest of the rapid safely but shipped con­siderable water. Ran 6 rapids besides. When we came to a fearful looking place were compelled to run it as there was no foot-hold for a portage-it was run or bust. Landed at the head of it for dinner and pictures. Jones broke another barometer and dropped the camera-head overboard. We watched the "Emma" go through it, and thought, at times she had sank [sic] to rise no more, but after a brief moment would see 4 human heads on top of the next wave, the boat nearly filled with water. Our turn next. We rode through it without shipping quite as much water as the other boat did. Maj., on former trip, swamped here."0 The rapid has a fall of 50 or 60 feet in half a mile. Bailed out the boat and pulled out into 4 more big rapids, which we ran safely. At 3:00 o'clock came to another big bad rapid and the Maj. concluded to make a portage along the side of the cliff. It seemed almost impassable for the granite walls (we struck the granite at the foot of our last night's camp) looked perpendicular. Let down and portaged for a few rods, working hard till dark. Let the boats down one past the other; quite dangerous. Made camp on the bare granite boulders in the midst of a rain-storm. In fact has been raining off and on all day long making it most uncomfortable and cold. Had hard ""On August 14, 1869. See the journals of Bradley, Sumner, and die Major in vol. XV of tiiis Quarterly. 444 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY work in building and keeping a fire; did some tall rustling for a few twigs. Our camp is not extensive in size, just a few granite boulders at the foot of a perpendicular wall; wood scarce. Finally supper was ready and eaten. Tried to relieve the un­pleasant experience by singing songs, 6 c , 6 c , 6 c No sand to sleep on so each one will have to take a separate individual granite rock with a blanket, and get what sleep he can. I wonder what the devil the wild waves are saying with their infernal roar. Made about 6 miles by today's run. Aug. 30th. Passed a hard uncomfortable night. After breakfast commenced work by continuing the portage. To make a long story short, worked hard till noon letting down boat by boat, one past the other from rock, then carrying the rations, 6c, around the cliff where there was a bad place; handed them one to another. Made a couple of hundred yards and still the rapid boils below us. The Maj. ought to have run it. 'Tis not near as bad as the other one was, and again instead of continuing the portage, ought to have struck out from last night's camp and have run it. But instead we have had terrible hard work, lost time, but more than all, have now on hand a couple of boats with bottoms almost gone and with gaping holes through their sides. In fact they are in a sorry plight, and to add to the dreariness of the scene it has rained nearly all day long. Rations, blankets, guns, 6 c , 6 c , wet through and through. Spent the balance of the day in repairing the boats. During the afternoon the river commenced to rise rapidly by some 3 or 4 feet, so toward evening had to lift the boats up some half dozen feet above the water and lash them firmly with ropes against the side of the cliff to prevent them from being dashed to pieces against the rocks by the angry surf. Had some more tall rustling for wood. Moved camp, rations, 6 c up on a narrow bench 30 or 40 feet above water. While Andy was helping Prof, the others fixed the boats. I got supper; had a sweet time of it in the rain. Had to stretch a tarpaulin over the fire. Another camp on granite boulders. Boats hanging to the sides of the cliff. If the river continues to rise will have to lift them still higher, for if they go-God help us. 'Tis an anxious night for us all. Lying on granite boulders not agreeing with my constitution, slept on top of the rations 6 sacks. This hard work and being wet from head to foot all day long is terrible and is wearing on the spirits and health of the party. The party seems dead-nothing but work and danger, hard beds and worse food-a little bread, a few peaches, jerk [jerky] and coffee."1 "Due to late August rains the river was subject to sudden fluctuations and their camp was in a precarious position. Morale of the party reached its lowest ebb on this night. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 445 Aug. 31st. The river rose and fell again last evening, but after breakfast it commenced to rapidly rise higher than be­fore. The boats were lowered as quickly as possible but in letting down the "Emma" a hole was stove through her side. The boats were pounded on the rocks by the water badly and the Maj. thought that we would have to haul the boats up on the cliff and let the water subside, but finally concluded to run the rapid and get a better landing place. Before the "Emma" was loaded and ready to start was almost water-logged, but off they went at last, but riding very low. If there had been short shoppy [choppy] waves she would have swamped. We watched her out of sight and then prepared to sail out ourselves. Ex­pected to find the other boat drifting somewhere below the rapid. We had a good deal of difficulty in launching; Andy came mighty near going up the flume. We went half or three-quarters of a mile fluking now, you bet your life. Found the other boat in a little cove on right bank all right but center cabin full of water. Unloaded her, bailed out and hauled her up on the rocks for repairs. Of course it commenced raining and lasted about all day long. At the rapid above, threw away my dark tent and lost an oar and Andy a pair of shoes. Maj. threw away several little things to lighten the boat. Jones lost his big straw hat. Andy threw away an old coat and pair of breeches. When the miners at the Kanab Wash see the things come sailing down they will mourn the expedition as lost. Had dinner on bare rocks. Maj. climbed to the top of the granite 1000 feet high. The "Emma" was repaired and I had a new oar made by 4:00 o'clock, then pulled out into the waves. Ran 10 long bad rapids, or rather one long dangerous rapid, for 10 miles in about 45 minutes including all stop [p] ages to look at the rapid, 6c Could not make portages if we had wanted to, for it was per­pendicular granite walls all the way down. In one of the rapids Prof, was knocked off the boat but soon recovered his position. Landed at 4:45 on right bank at Bright Angel River. A large willow tree grows at its mouth. Plenty of sand to sleep on. All of us are about used up. Sept. 1st, [1872]. Rose late this morning feeling stiff and sore all over. Had a pot of beans for breakfast. Found the remains of some Moquis houses near by with some of their mills for grinding corn. Maj.'s crew crossed over to the other side to climb. Prof, climbed out on this side. Found that our boat was leaking some. We are now running out of the granite into the old red sandstone, but will soon be back to the former formation and hard work on the other bend. Have almost finished the first great southern bend. Bright Angel is muddy this morning. Jones is sick again. About one-half of the volume of the Colorado is mud, and we are compelled to drink it. The weather is getting 446 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY colder and rains day after day. Pulled out at about 10:00 a.m. and ran a long continuous rapid of over 3 miles in length in safety. In running another, the Deacon [Jones] fell overboard and the "Dean" lost 3 oars, but we recovered them in an eddy. Ran into the granite again, height of walls 4000 feet. Ran 5 long dangerous rapids in forenoon. Camped for dinner on right among granite boulders. Took a couple of fine negatives. Pulled out again at 1:15 into a big rapid; ran it and 4 others in safety, when we came to a heavy portage. Stove a hole through the "Canonita." Camped to repair her and take some views. Climbed up some 600 feet for them. Camped on left bank; gran­ite all day, canon very narrow and water very swift. Made 7% miles by hard work. Sept. 2nd. Pulled out at 8:00 a.m. and ran a dangerous rapid, then 3 small ones and then to an "Old Roarer" and a portage; made it. Ran 3 more rapids and made another portage, all within 3% miles of camp. Camped for dinner on some rocks on left bank, after which we struck out to do or die. Ran over several portages the Maj. made 3 years ago, and over some "Pe-up""8 waves in which we were severely handled and both boats nearly filled with water more than once. High water is a great labor-saving institution as long as one is right side up with care, but if one met with an accident then look out. Made 15% miles, 26 rapids and 2 portages. Camped on left bank on little patch of sand amid the granite boulders. Granite and the walls of the canon growing less as we go. The river is fear­fully filthy and is on the constant rise, but now and then we are lucky enough to find some little pocket of pure rain water in some granite basin. Sept. 3rd. A long dangerous rapid just below camp. Maj. decided to run it and started out at 8:00 a.m. In going through the "Dean" filled with water and swamped, spilling out crew, camp kettles, a couple of axes, sponge and cup. Jack was thrown 6 feet from the boat by an oar and landed in the middle of a whirlpool that sucked him under, stripping him of hat, shoes and stockings. Maj. was also landed in the same whirl­pool with Jack and if he had not had on his life-preserver would never [have] come out alive. 'Twas the closest call he ever had. Jones and Fred kept their hold on the boat and helped the Maj. on, also Jack finally reached it and all of them together righted the boat, got her in an eddy and at last ashore. Lost 3 oars and the aforesaid articles. The Maj. had his $500 chrono­meter about ruined. Soaked it with glycerine to prevent it from rusting. Reached shore, bailed out and soon had things ship­shape, though the crew looked decidedly dilapidated. Well, we 1MA Paiute word, meaning "big." JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 447 were delayed in getting off by an eddy, but when we finally got into it we were most terribly shaken up. Prof, and Andy did some lofty gymnastic performances and I presume I was doing likewise. Prof, yelled "Left," so dropping the right oars we pulled with might and main on the left. On looking around saw my right oar and oarlock minus as was also Andy's and the Prof.'s oars, but luckily we saw the last two oars in an eddy and recovered them, but the last that was seen of mine she was gaily running the rapid blade up. We finally reached shore by the side of the "Dean" and picked up Jones's steering oar. Maj. felt rather blue about his chronometer. Soon replaced my oar and oar-lock. All the spare oars are now gone. Quite un­fortunate. Struck out and ran 2 or 3 other rapids and landed on right bank for dinner. Maj., Prof., and Fred went geologizing while Jack and I took some negatives. Started out at 1:30, dropped down to some Moquis ruins on right bank in a bend and at the head of a long dangerous rapid. After looking at it awhile concluded to run it, which we did safely, though at some risk as the water set in against the cliff. Came near running against it. Went about 3 miles in as many minutes, then ran 4 long bad rapids. The Maj., in trying to land for a night camp on left bank, got into some swift water at the head of a rapid. Fred jumped ashore with a line but slipped from the rock and away went the boat dragging Fred, who still held onto the line. Deacon jumped for the shore and landed on a rock, skinning his shin. Maj. jumped to save Fred but did not reach him. Fred climbed into the boat and he and Jack rowed her ashore. We have had quite a day's adventure, I think. Made 8% miles and ran 16 rapids, most of them bad. Walls of canon 5800 feet; granite, marble, and sandstone walls are beginning to decrease. Their greatest height in this has been 6700 feet. Sept. 4th. Broke camp at 8:00 a.m. and portaged the first rapid. Ran 9 more. Landed on left bank for pictures, while the "Canonita" dropped down half a mile for a dinner camp. After securing 2 or 3 indifferent views, dropped down also. Very windy all day. Tried to take a view from dinner camp but could not on account of wind. Maj. called Andy and I up last night to secure the boats, as they were pounding badly on the rocks. Had beans for breakfast. Pulled out again at 1:15 but landed in [on] right bank for pictures on dropping down 3 or 4 miles. The river is full of boils, whirlpools and eddies which makes it very hard in rowing; the river rose about 2 feet during the past night. Camped on left bank at 5:30. Made 14% miles, 23 rapids and one portage. Cooked the last of the peaches. Caiion walls now are about 4000 [feet]. Sept. 5th. Yesterday ran the granite down and the sand­stone up. River much wider. Water fell some 2 or 3 feet 448 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY during the night. Started out at 9:00 a.m. and made a line portage to begin with, then ran 5 rapids in as many miles. Stopped at about 11:00 a.m. for pictures on left bank. Had dinner before leaving. Started again at 2:00 p.m. Made a portage; boats surged up against Andy and myself and wedged us in between a couple of big rocks. Andy hurt his leg badly and I was pretty well squeezed. Went down about 3 miles farther when the Maj. landed above the rapid to look at it but could not get down to it on account of perpendicular walls. Hauled the boats up a couple of hundred yards and then started to cross and landed at the head of the fall. Saw that it did not amount to anything but the Maj. said "A portage," and so a portage it was and a d d farce. Went into camp just below it on a sand bank to the left. Ran the sandstone down and the granite up and down and now are in lava or basalt. Made 8% miles, 3 portages and ran 11 miles [rapids]. Sept. 6th. Looking back up the river a clear stretch of a mile and a half presents itself through the granite-rapid just at its head and the dark walls make it impressive. The walls are almost vertical with caverns at their base, or rather alcoves. The canon is very narrow. Pulled out at 8:45 and ran a long bad rapid to begin with and then 3 others. Landed on right bank for pictures while the Maj. went geologizing. A clear cold stream comes in off of the Buckskin to the northwest. On going up it found several cascades, while looking away up through the gorge rose the caiion walls some 4000 to 5000 feet in height. Made 6 good negatives, Maj. and Prof, well pleased. Maj. did not get back till 3:00 p.m. Started out by making a portage over the first rapid and running 3 more, 2 of them quite bad. Landed on the right bank at the mouth of another cold stream coming in from the Buckskin. Have only made about 3% miles. Made one portage and ran 7 rapids. Basalt all day at the water's edge all day long for a couple of hundred feet; red sandstone and yellow shales above that. Sept. 7th. After breakfast Maj., Prof., Jack, Fred, and I climbed up the creek for pictures. After going up some 800 feet took a couple of indifferent negatives, while Maj. and Fred went on farther for a couple of miles. Found some Moquis ruins and cactus-apples; the latter were good but the former we cared little about. Fred brought down a hatful. The creek is cold and clear as crystal and is one succession of cascades. By climbing up we got a far better idea of the grandeur and magnitude of Grand Canon, the walls towering up in terraces from 4000 to 6000 feet in height. Reached camp by noon and after dinner started down the river, running 4 rapids in about 3 miles, when we came to a cascade pouring off the right wall some 200 feet from the river. Stopped and took a couple of JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 449 views of it and then pulled out with a will for the Kanab Wash, only 8 miles away, running 9 more rapids, some of them bad. Ran the granite up and down in the 3 miles' travel, then came up a stratum of marble. At about 6:00 p.m. landed out [at] mouth of Kanab Wash. Rode up the little stream a short distance for a good camp. Found George Adair, Joe Hamblin and Mr. Adams there with rations for us and our mail. A couple -of letters for me, one from Morris and one from Cousin Nellie, but no papers. Am disappointed at the smallness of my package. Found that Cousin Nellie had kindly sent us down some vege­tables, potatoes, 6 c , and some canned fruit, salmon and butter. We had a gay supper, now, you bet. Have made about 11 miles and run 13 rapids. George brings in news that all the Indians in the territory are on the war-path; that some Mormons killed a family of the Shebwitchs [Shivwits] and that the tribe are on the lookout for our party for revenge. Think that we can give them a warm greeting if they visit us. Sat up till quite late. Sept. 8th. Received a new supply of photographic materials. After they were straightened up 100 glass were to be cleaned. Commenced a letter to Fanny giving an account of our trip. My head aches sadly, so did not make much headway. George brought in a month's rations and 11 animals. Cousin Nellie wrote that she expected that we would leave the river at this point on account of the Indian troubles, so sent in Maj.'s and Prof.'s horses at a venture. Maj. and Prof, are in a brown study about something and they may possibly give up the expedition at this place. I hate to give up until we are through but still will be glad to leave the infernal river. We have come through the worst of it, at any rate with the exception of a couple of bad rapids in the next southern granite bend, one where the 3 men deserted [Separation] and the other where Bradley went sailing over the rapid alone in a damaged boat."8 Sept. 9th. While at breakfast this morning Maj. quietly told us that our voyage of toil and danger was over with; that he had concluded not to go down any farther on account of high water; that the party should go back to Kanab with the train except Jack and myself who would photograph the Wash up for 10 miles to the "Water Pot" and then wait for horses to take us out. Will have to pack our own things up the caiion. That Prof, would map in the river from above; wanted the party to remain for a couple of months longer. Told Maj. and Prof, that my time was up and that I wanted to go home as soon as possible. Maj. and Jones started out to take a geological sec- ""See Bradley's graphic account of tiiis adventure, in his journal under date of August 28, 1869, Utah Historical Quarterly, 1947, vol. XV, pp. 70, 71. 450 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY tion while the rest of the party packed up, had dinner and were off, leaving Jack and I alone, with about 3 more packs. Some of the boys will have to walk to Kanab, for horses are scarce. Sent a short letter out by Prof, to Fanny telling the folks that the trip was over with. Have been writing my diary. Fred takes the "Emma Dean's" flags; Prof, sends the "Nellie Powell's" to Steward, while I fall heir to the " Canonita's." I will always keep it as a memento of the trip. After the party had left found out that we had forgotten to lay in a supply of matches; after hunting around found a dozen in the tool box. Will have to be very saving of them and keep a fire during nights. Spent the balance of the day easy."* Sept. 10th. After breakfast went down to the bank of the Colorado and took our last views of that infernal river. Got a good view of the rapid. Went back to camp and took a fare­well picture of the boats as they lay high and dry on the banks of the creek. The river has gone down at least 2 feet since last evening. Opened a box of sardines and a can of salmon that Cousin Nellie sent down to us, then took 2 or 3 more negatives in the afternoon, making 7 for today. A pretty good day's work, I call it. 'Tis pleasant, this camping out when there are only 2 of us, but still at the best a canon is a gloomy low-spirited hole and I will be heartily glad when we are out of it and on our way home. Sept 11th. Started out this morning loaded down with the photographic gallery to make our last portage of 10 miles. The canon has a vertical marble wall of a beautiful pink color; are about a couple thousand feet in height. The trail is strewn widi marble boulders of all sizes and shapes and among them we stumble along. Passed a couple of large caves worn out by the little stream. From over the larger one a spring constandy drips in a shower of drops. The canon is so narrow and the walls are so high that it is difficult to make any kind of a decent negative on account of light and failure of the instrument to take in the top of the wall. The bends are mostly very short; in fact the canon is nothing but a series of bends. A constant wind from head to mouth. Went up about 4 miles only, made a couple of views, cached our things and returned to our camp at the river feeling very tired and hungry. Found a few five coals and thereby saved a match, cooked supper, ate it thank­fully, smoked and talked around the camp-fire of the trip that is past and fell asleep to dream of home. "The "Nellie Powell" had been left at Lees Ferry but die men still carried her flag. It had been Powell's intention to continue down to die mouth of the Virgin River in order to make maps and photographs, but his men were worn out and his boats in bad shape. Perhaps he did not care to risk repetition of the trouble at Separation Rapids a few miles below. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 451 Sept. 12th. Started out early this morning packed with our blanket and rations. Reached our gallery and took a couple of views then packed our gallery up the wash for a couple of miles farther, taking in the meanwhile, 3 more pictures. Returned to camp by 6:00 o'clock feeling very tired and hungry. Sept. 13th. Passed an unpleasant restless night; woke up feeling utterly miserable. After breakfast was over with, packed our traps up to our gallery; made 4 negatives at that place, then lugged our gallery up a mile farther, making one more picture. Filtered bath and made developer. We find as we pass along here and there a few cactus-apples; Jack goes for them but I am sick of them. The trail is simply "jack-assable" and hardly passable; we wade and stumble along it somehow or other but at night a feeling comes over us as if we were a used up community [commodity]. Returned to our camp and cooked our supper. We are, I should judge, about half-way to the "Watering Pot." I am getting heartily sick of canon life. Sept. 14th. Woke up feeling very tired. After break­fast we started out again after our gallery, then exchanging our blankets for it (the gallery) continued our march onward and upward over the rocks. Made about a couple of miles by evening, making 7 good negatives. Got to within about a mile and a half of the "Watering Pot"; will make that tomorrow and then our 10-mile portage will be over with, thank Heaven. Returned to camp, cooked our supper, wrote our diaries and talked over matters and things. Every now and then as we are plodding along we catch [sight] of the upper terrace of the caiion through some lateral gorge or canon. The walls are of solid marble, towering up for some 3000 feet. We are beginning to run up the "old red sandstone," then comes the gray and then the limestone. We have passed several large caves today in different parts of the wall, some almost at the top, others again at the bottom and some midway. In some places the caiion winds so that only a thin partition remains standing. Sept. 15th. Started out after breakfast, stopping whenever we came to a picture; if the light was not right we waited for it so that by the time that we had taken half a dozen fine negatives we were a mile from the spring and night approaching. Went back after our blankets and rations and carried them to the spring where we found the pack-train in charge of Mr. Adams and Joe Hamblin just going into camp. They made a forced drive from Kanab to here in a couple of days and playing out 2 or 3 of their animals. They brought us no mail much to our disappointment. They had been too lazy to cook anything since leaving Kanab so are about famished. Went to work and cooked supper. Maj. and Prof., on going out, cached a couple of packs here so that the boys would have horses to ride. There being some beans 452 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY in the cache put on a pot for breakfast. They brought us no news except that the party still remains together and are prepar­ing to scatter out over the mountains. The spring looks as natural as life and we fell asleep to the dripping sound of the falling spray. ; i *$ Sept. 16th. Up early to get the fellows off after the things at the river; they wanted to make the trip in one day, but we finally persuaded them that they had better take two to [for] it on account of the horses. They brought in with them 2 of the broncho mules to pack out. Made 5 good negatives, bringing the gallery up to the spring and the no. of views up to 36; will make the even 40 and then will feel satisfied. Toward evening we carried our blankets, 6 c , up to the head of the water one-half or three-quarters of a mile farther up and camped. Tomor­row will finish photographing, I hope. We are entering on the old camp-ground among the mesquite and for the first time in 2 months have camped out of the sound of falling water. As I write everything is so still and hushed that an involuntary feeling of sadness comes over me. All is silence, the walls tower above me for a thousand feet, the sun is just throwing its last touch on the topmost pinnacle, and darkness and gloom are rapidly descending in the caiion beneath. We look wistfully up to the heights above wishing and longing to be out of our prison, but "there is a good time coming." Sept. 17th. Passed a restless night; "Buttons" and "Dick" on the rampage all night long trying to get by us. "Buttons" would send "Dick" on ahead to see how things were going on and to see if he could get through the lines, 6 c ; the mules thought they would try it, so take it all together we had a gay old time of it. After breakfast we went down after our traps and brought them up to camp and finished our picture-making for the present by breaking the slide to the plate-holder. At about 9:00 a.m. Adams and Joe came up with the caches. Concluded to rest the animals the rest of the day and get an early start in the morning. Whiled away the rest of the day in arranging packs and getting things ready. Have got about 40 fine negatives of the canon and 60 of the Grand Caiion. The stream here is filled with speckled brook trout but are too small for cooking purposes, am sad to relate. Sept. 18th. After breakfast packed up; had no trouble with the bronchos as we had expected. As the negatives are the most important part of the expedition, packed them on the "Blue" which I led, and up the caiion we started with 6 packs. The iron hoofs went clattering over the boulders for 20 miles and we camped at our old place, the "Cedar Tree," finding plenty of wood, water and feed. On our way up ran marble, old red sand­stone and the gray sandstone under, running up the lime with JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 453 a talus of red shales beneath it. Caiion here is about half a mile wide and about a couple of thousand feet in height. Sept. 19th. The past night was a cold one. As we came up out of our "hole" into the world above we feel the fall air and realize the fact that winter is almost here. Were started by 8:00 a.m., taking the trail leading straight up the canon as it will save us some 10 or 15 miles. Reached the "Gap" and passed into the willows and 'twas amusing to see "Dick' wade through them followed by a camp meeting on a white mule. Five miles from the Pipe Spring we came to a rather peculiar rock running out halfway across the cafion; called it "Chimney Rock" and went into camp at the pool of water at its base. I got supper as usual while the rest attended to the stock. Have had limestone all day; caiion narrow, walls about 300 feet high. Sept. 20th. Broke camp at about 8:00 p.m. [a.m.], traveled up about 4 miles then climbed to the top of the caiion walls and struck out over the sandy waste northward for Kanab. 'Tis pleasant to view the broad expanse of blue above us once more and looking far away through the haze Mt. Trumbull loomed up grandly before us; some 15 miles away were the Vermilion Cliffs stretching out as far as the eye could reach east and west. Behind us lay the Kibab [Kaibab] Plateau and around us on every side rose small sand buttes of all imaginable shapes and forms; one resembles an ocean steamer under full headway, another a spired cathedral. The infernal sage bush sickened every sense with its remembrances of many a toilsome march and still it has made many a bright cheerful camp-fire; so I forgive it. Soon struck into the road leading from Pipe [Spring] to Kanab. Reaching the latter place by 4:00 o'clock p.m. were kindly greeted by Coz.'s [Cousins] Harry and Nellie and Fred. Andy has gone to Beaver after a load of rations. Maj. and Jones are at upper Kanab to geologize. Received a letter each from Morris, Fanny, Belle and Fred Dudley, also a few papers. It appears that Jack and I are to go over to the Moquis with Jacob in a week or so. A couple of Moquis are in town but left for the Pahria just after we got in. Beaman returned today, said he had had a successful trip, got a lot of blankets, buckskins, 6 c; left for Johnson's in the evening. Showed our negatives to Prof., and Cousin Nellie. They were well pleased with them. Were treated to a lot of melons by George Adair. Had a good supper of potatoes, butter, milk, 6 c , 6 c , 6 c Are camped in our "Hogon" [hogan]. Went to bed with a hard headache. Sept. 21st. Rose late feeling utterly worn out and dispirited; Jack and I worked too hard down the canon. Over­hauled our chemicals, 6 c ; took an inventory of the stock on hand. Tried to take a ferro-type of Fred but did not succeed. Had plenty of melons all day. As we were getting supper 16 454 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY Navajos rode into town; they camped in school house. After supper Fred, Jack, and I went down to see them. They are bright sharp-looking rascals and well-dressed. Have brought blankets to trade for horses. Prof, has put up his observation tent and sits up part of each night taking the exact latitude and longitude of Kanab, also getting the exact north and south lines; and in consequence of them Fred and I have to take hourly barometrical observations. We go on tonight; Fred sits up till 2 o'clock to­morrow morning, then wakes me and then I take the series till 2 o'clock the next morning, and so change about. Its an un­pleasant piece of work. Sept. 22nd. Sunday morning again. Jack dressed up for the occasion and started for Johnson's for some things, on "But­tons." A couple of Navajos came in and we gave them their breakfasts but they "no savvy" cabbage. Fred cut my hair and I shaved. Prof, came down and invited Fred and I to come up to the tent and have some melons. While there were visited by some of the Navajos. One they call "John" is a famous warrior. I well pleased with his appearance. Was a fine looking fellow, tall and dignified. Prof, got quite a Navajo vocabulary from him: "lo lo mi Lo lo mi" Yes: "To la mi" Owe. Gave them some tobacco and flour. Five of them went back home having finished their trading; the rest will go to the other settlements. The Mormons are uneasy about their appearance and refuse to feed them. One of their (Navajo) mules died and today they are having quite a feast. Prof, settled with Adair. Fred called me at 2 o'clock this morning to take observations; will sit up tonight till 2:00 tomorrow morning. Jack returned at 8 o'clock, brought some candy and apples; said that Beaman's negatives were "catch wano"186-too thin, 6 c The nights and mornings are growing quite cold with disagreeable winds. Sept. 23rd. After breakfast helped Adams grind a scythe. I feel stupid and miserable. Am tired and worn out; this sitting up half the night is no joke. Slept nearly all forenoon then took camera down to Mr. Mace's to get it fixed and a new box made. Our bath bottle broke and bath spilled. Commenced cleaning glass. Baked a gay loaf of bread in Mrs. Hamblin's oven. Day spent as usual. At noon Bishop [Anson P.] Windsor and Perry [Parry?] drove up from Pipe on their way to Salt Lake City to Conference. Went down to Bishop Steward's [Levi Stewart] after some of Cousin Nellie's things just arrived from the Buck- "This phrase of Indian jargon appears often in die journals of the Powell expedition. The variously spelled 'kotch," "cotch," or "koch" in Paiute meant "no" or "not"; the word "wano," "wino," or "wyno" was a corruption of die Spanish word "bueno," meaning "good." JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 455 skin. Was treated to some melons and to a sight of the pretty operator,"8 a late arrival at Kanab. Sept. 24th. After breakfast went out with Jacob to the "field" and cut and shocked corn till noon. Returned and we 3, i.e., Jack, Fred, and myself celebrated Prof.'s 35th birthday at Cousin Nellie's tent by getting outside of untold quantities of cake, custard pie and melons. Mail day but no mail for me. Cousin Nellie received a letter from Bram saying that Ben and Jud had been visiting at Naperville; that Ben was better. Took my gun to pieces to clean it; could not get a screw out; took it down to the blacksmith and left it there till tomorrow. Had a late supper. My turn to "stand guard" till 2 o'clock a.m. Have been writing my diary up for the last 8 or 10 days and reading King's "Mountaineering in the Sierra Nevadas." 'Tis highly colored but the description and language are fine. Jack cleaned some 50 glass today. Sept. 25th. After breakfast went down to the black­smith's shop and took my gun to pieces; boiled the pieces in hot water and thoroughly cleaned them. Ate dinner at Jacob's as per invitation. Cousin Nellie spent the afternoon at our Hogon sewing, 6 c ; made us a dish of succotash. She is very kind and is always doing something for us. The boys would do anything for her and think that she is the dearest little woman in the world. Sept. 26th. Fred called me at 2 o'clock as usual. Nights are cold and sitting up is tiresome and tedious work. Put my gun together; it is in fine order now. Fred made a slide for my plate-holder. Jack has been cleaning glass. Prof, up nearly all night; nearly froze to death. After supper Jack, Fred, and I took a walk around the suburbs of Kanab; were treated to music by the P [a] kite band. Sept. 27th. Up half the night taking observations. At noon half a dozen Navajos came riding into town and camped down at Steward's fence. After dinner went down to examine their blankets, talked to them as well as I could and told them I would trade them a couple "cayuses." Three or four of them came up to camp, and treated them to melons, rinds and all; gave them their supper. They expressed their thanks by "wano key" and asking for more. Joe and I went down to their camp in the evening. Sept. 28th. Joe went after the horses while we fed the impatient Navajos. When at last they did come (i.e., the horses) I bought "Dick" and Fred "Yager" for $25.00 each. Traded "Dick" off for 4 gray blankets; Fred got 5 for his animals but "•A telegraph line had been run from Salt Lake City to St. George, Pipe Spring, and Kanab in 1871. The operator at Kanab was a young lady, in pursuance of Brigham Young's idea that such office work was the province of women rather dian men. 456 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY not near so nice as mine. Prof, wanted me to give him my best blanket and call "Dick" square, but the blanket belongs to Fanny. Made a bridle for one of the Navajos and tried to trade him out of his moccasins and leggings. Tried to buy another horse but could not find one cheap enough for my purpose. Tonight is our last night for observation. Sept. 29th. One of the Navajos is in a terrible sweat to trade for a horse but Prof, has none to spare. Four of them left for Long Valley and the other two going home. At about 11:00 a.m. Cousin Nellie, Fred and I started up the Kanab Caiion on a kind of picnic excursion to the cave lakes about 6 miles from camp. Stopped at a spring in a side caiion to eat a melon and then went on up to the lakes. Found Prof, there with our dinner. The lakes are really a curiosity and very pretty. Built a fire inside one of them and ate our dinner very cozily. I forgot coffee and sugar, unfortunately. After dinner was over Prof, returned to camp as he had work to do. Fred and I went to some other lakes to try to shoot some ducks while Nellie gathered some flowers. I carried "Fuzz" most of the way back as he was pretty well tired out. Cousin Nellie's horse stumbled and fell but no harm done. Passed by the P[ a] iute camp-fires; rather roman­tic. Got home by 8:00 o'clock and found that Andy had returned from Beaver with rations and stuff to trade with the Moquis. Sept. 30th. Last night Fred and I slept soundly and without fear, for our hourly observations are over with, thank Heaven. All of us at work repairing saddles, cinches, pack-saddles, 6 c, 6 c , 6 c , all day long. The "Colonel" still belongs to the party and is a first-rate good fellow. I helped Mr. Hamblin a little with his hay. I have made me a tip-top bed in the wagon-box. We are expecting the Maj. in every day. Oct. 1st, [1872]. Showering all day long. Hard at work fix­ing up for our trip across the river. Mail day. Received a letter each from Morris and Fanny, also one of my "Tribune" letters. Fred got a letter from Bishop, he (B) is principal of a high school in Salt Lake."7 In the evening Jack read my letter (printed) aloud to the boys. They thought it was "wano," especially Fred (?). Did some washing and mending; my wardrobe is rather slim just now. Oct. 2nd. Beaman has left for the city. Busy all the fore­noon arranging my personal sacks, 6 c At noon Maj. came in from Pipe Springs looking well and hearty; Jones came in later with the packs. Maj. said he wanted us to take the best outfit possible over the river and wanted us to start as soon as possible. Andy is to go with us instead of Joe. Showed Maj. "The Morgan Commercial College. Next year he joined the staff of die University of Deseret (now University of Utah). See tiiis Quarterly, vol. XV, p. 156. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 457 the negatives of Kanab Wash; he was well pleased. Spent the evening pleasantly with him and Cousin Nellie at the tent. Prof, being busy at the observation tent. Spoke to Maj. about my salary, but he gave me no definite reply but would talk it over. Oct. 3rd. Camera boxed and tripod finished nicely; fixed our chemicals, 6 c Put a sight in my gun. Had a lot of fun to see the broncho mules buck when we tried to pack them. In the afternoon George Adair came in with a lot of grapes, peaches and wine of which we had a bountiful supply. Fred has a bad leg and thinks of leaving for home at once. Deacon is complain­ing; Maj. is poisoned with ivy. Fixed up my own saddle and bridle and made me a belt and knife-sheath. Spent the evening with Cousin Nellie talking about home and friends. Have been writing my diary. Jacob [Hamblin] butchered a steer for us tonight so we will have fresh meat once more. Oct. 4th. After breakfast Maj., Jacob, Jack, and I drove over to the Pa [i] ute camp to picture it; were at [it] nearly all day. Braves, squaws and pampooses [papooses] were done up in the most artistic fashion, as also was the Ancient Arrow Maker. Prof, and Maj. gave Fred and I "Dick" and "Yager" with their compliments (take it as you choose). Evening has set in cold and windy. Maj., Jack, and I had a long talk about our Moquis trip, at the tent. Made me a belt. Ate dinner with Jacob's [family?]; had a feast of fruit, peaches and grapes. Maj, bought a mule of Hamblin for $100. Oct. 5th. Went over to the Indian camp to finish taking pictures. Took 5 or 6 negatives, one of the Arrow Maker, one of them kindling a fire and others. Returned in time for dinner. Maj. received a dispatch from St. George calling him there; left at about 4 or 5 o'clock. He gave me his overcoat to take to the Moquis. Jack came to a definite settlement about his wages with him; I will wait till I come back from the Moquis. Joe went to Pipe after the broncho. Indian Frank was thrown from his mule, quite laughable. Maj. bought another mule for $50. Jacob busy jerking meat and getting the articles to trade in shape. I took "Gray Billy" down and got him shod at the blacksmith shop. Spent a pleasant evening with Cousin Nellie. Oct. 6th. After breakfast Jack and I started for Johnson's to get such articles as we needed; I got a pair of shoes and spurs. No one there but the girls, who were quite lively. Bought some wine. Got to camp just after sundown. Oct. 7th. Bought a six-shooter of George Adair for 11 dollars; paid him the 4 dollars I owed him for the lasso. By the by Capt. Dodds has it at Uintah so 'tis a dead loss. Took a pic­ture of "Fuzz." All of us busy in getting rations and things ready for our trip. Mr. Bunting and the "Col." at work making bridles, alfogias [alforjas=saddlebags], 6 c , 6 c Wrote a letter 458 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY to Morris. Cleaned my revolver. Jack got George's other Colt's at a bargain. Think we will get off tomorrow. Fred's leg is in a bad state; he will stay at Kanab at present. Prof, and George are going over on the Buckskin. Jones and Joe down the Virgin. Oct. 8th, After breakfast I went to Mr. Oakley's to buy a gun for Cousin Nellie; not liking it, bought her a Remington six-shooter almost new for $10 of Robertson, the blacksmith. A dozen Navajos returned from their trading tour up through the setde-ments and are now going home post-haste. No mail today, or rather it has not arrived as yet. Joe brought up the animals so we are at last ready to go, thank fortune. Oct. 9th. Up early and commenced packing up. Will take the wagon as far as the Pahria to save 3 or 4 days' packing. Mail in this morning; received a letter from Morris. Jack and Andy went with the wagon while Jacob went to Johnson's to buy a few things necessary to trade. I drove the loose stock on "But­tons." Bade Prof., Cousin Nellie and the rest "All Day"; they wished us a pleasant and prosperous trip. Watered our stock at Johnson's for fear that we could not get any at the Wells; had quite a time of it and it delayed us. Bought a pair of spurs for Andy and Jacob, some lead, caps and powder for the Moquis. Reached the Navajo Well long after dark, had supper-then to bed. Oct. 10th. Jacob and I are now bed-fellows. Were wakened by daylight by Fred and Charlie Riggs riding up with a dis­patch for Jacob stating that some Navajos had stolen stock, some 75 head, so Charlie and Jacob left to intercept them at the Cross­ing. Fred let Jacob have his gun and returned to Kanab. We then hitched up and started for House Rock, 40 miles away. Reached the Springs by 9 o'clock tired and hungry. Oct. 11th. Up and off by 8 o'clock. Reached the "Pools" at 2 o'clock and watered. One of the Lee families are camped there; are going to put up a shanty for winter. Found Joe Wood there. Started out and reached Clear Creek after dark some 25 miles from House Rock. Found a deserted [gold miner's] "Rock­er," which made splendid firewood. Saw a Navajo fire across the river. Boiled our "Murphies" [Irish potatoes?] and slept soundly. Oct. 12th. Started by 8 o'clock and reached the Pahria, 15 miles away, by 3 or 4 o'clock. Took the wagon across the Pahria with considerable trouble. Got stalled once or twice. After we got settled started for John D. Lee's. Found Lee and Jacob coming over to invite us to supper. Jacob, thinking that there wasn't much in the report, or more likely that the Utes were the robbers, took the trail from the Pahria settlement over the mountains and reached Lee's about the same time that we did. Had a very good supper and then returned to camp. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 459 Oct. 13th. After breakfast we tried to raise the "Nellie Powell" to cross over with, but it was so firmly bedded in the sand we gave it up and concluded to build a skiff. Lee invited us to take our meals with him, so we gave him our rations, and board at his "Hogon." After dinner Lee sent one of his boys to the "Pools" after his tools. In the meanwhile we made 12 or 16 "knees" for the boat. Then Andy and I helped Lee cut and haul corn till suppertime. Lee told me my fortune-of course a good one. Oct. 14th. Jack, Andy, and I cutting and hauling corn till the whole field was gathered into the corral. Jacob and Lee work­ing away at the skiff. Lee's boy returned in the evening bringing with him a black mare and colt; bought half [i.e., a half interest] for $37.50 to trade to the Moquis. Returned to camp at night. Oct. 15th. At work all day building the boat and by night had her ready to pitch in the morning. Concluded to buy the other half of the mare and colt so gave my rifle and $20 cash for them; will not deliver the rifle until my return. Mrs. Lee will send over a sack of cotton for Jacob to trade for her."8 Jacob bought 50# for the Maj. Had a first-rate supper. Oct. 16th. After breakfast pitched the boat and then hauled her to the river; then swam the animals over and then took over our traps, 6 c This took us till about 3 o'clock. Had dinner at Lee's, then crossed over and by the time we had packed our animals the sun was sinking behind the cliffs. We struck out however by moonlight, skirted the base of the cliffs to the south­west, climbed and descended one steep dangerous cliff safely and at about 10:00 o'clock camped at Ten Mile Spring. Turned in without getting supper. Oct. 17th. Up early and after a hearty breakfast started out, still keeping along the base of the cliffs that rise above the Colorado. The trail was rather heavy and led over many a gulch. At about 4:00 o'clock we came to an alkali creek about 15 miles from our last night's camp, and camped on account of its being the only water for 18 miles. Had a good deal of trouble in getting wood enough to bake bread by. Some of the animals taking the back-trail-we hobbled them. Jacob whiled away the evening "yarning." Oct. 18th. Up early. From here we turn south. Traveled steadily along till past noon when we came to water in Lime­stone Caiion. Camped for dinner and once more pushed on with nothing to greet the eye but a wilderness of sand, with here and there lying scattered about a rocky butte or a distant range of cliffs. Toward evening we climbed a difficult cliff and ""Cotton was being raised at St. George. Evidently Mrs. Lee had raised some in her garden. 460 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY found ourselves in a cedar forest. The sun went down but the moon lighted us on our way to the Thousand Wells which we reached by 9 o'clock. Have made a long weary journey of 35 miles today. Ate a hearty supper and turned in. Oct. 19th. After breakfast Jack and I took a few views of the "Wells" but most of them were dried up. They were com­posed of numberless pockets in about 50 acres of sand-rock bordering a cliff. Looking off to the south the San Francisco peaks loomed dimly through the morning haze; they are grand "Pe-up" mountains. After dinner started eastward over the desert. Crossing the valley we entered the cedars. Made about 12 miles and made a dry camp at 8 o'clock. Jacob entertained us with a history of his past life. Oct. 20th. Up early and off for water for man and beast. Jacob shot a rabbit which was good when cooked at Whitmore's Pool, 10 miles from our last camp. After nooning for a couple of hours started again traveling a little east of south. In the middle of the afternoon met Miss-am-to-wa and another Navajo going to Kanab to trade. Gave them some tobacco and a note to Cousin Nellie telling her where we were. In stopping to pick a flower "Buttons" started ahead on the trail. I mentioned my opinion about it when I overtook him again with a cedar limb. As the sun sank to rest we went into camp in a little valley of cedar, among a cluster of buttes, but no water. Oct. 21st. Off by 7:30 a.m. Yesterday we made about 25 miles. Had not gone far when we met our old friend, Ko-neko, and 8 other Navajos going to Mormondom to trade for "Cavaios" [caballos=horses]. I offered them my colt for some blankets. One young fellow was going to give me 3 big ones for him, but his father seeing [this] was a rather a big price for the colt stopped it and offered 4 for the mare, and I refused. Wrote them a recommend at Jack's request, bade them adieu and separated. They are well mounted and had plenty of blankets. The "Base Ball Cap" chap was among them. We still keep the San Fran­cisco Peak to our left. Buttes are continually rising up around us but we travel through a waste of sand. At about sunset we came to the Quick-em-to-weap (Buffalo Land) lying within the Mou-em-copy [sic] Wash.168 The above "To-weap" is a mass of curiously eroded rock and variegated sandstone resembling at a distance well laid-out towns, burnt over. 'Twas here that George A. Smith was killed by the Navajos in '60. Went into camp at one of the springs. Have made about 78. Oct. 22nd. Jacob was quite sick last evening. After break- ""Moenkopi Wash. The party visited Moenkopi village on its return. See J. A. Little's biography of Hamblin, for die killing of George A. Smith, Jr., also this Quarterly, vol. 12, p. 165. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 461 fast was over with, Jack and I started out to take some pictures. Climbed a butte some 400 or 500 feet high but finding our water "salt," 'twas no good. A park of 200 or 300 acres, level and green, nestled among the red and white buttes. After dinner packed our traps and started on our way. The sky became overcast with heavy clouds and a cold damp wind from the north threat­ened rain; it was cold. Traveled steadily onward only stopping to fix a pack now and then till dark, making 10 or 12 miles. Went into camp among the cedars for shelter but had no water save that in our canteens. Andy tried to boil some beans for our dinner today but only half succeeded on account of the water being so salty, but we ate heartily of them and now we feel the effects of them, so no supper was thought of. We made a wind-break of cedar boughs and arranged everything in case of a storm. We then built [a fire] at the foot of our beds and smoked and talked around it till late. There is something cheerful in a camp-fire. Oct. 23rd. Rose bright and early; got breakfast, packed and started. On reaching the top of the rise some 3 or 4 miles from camp we saw the [Third or West] mesa on which Oryba [sic] stands.180 To the southwest rose some curiously eroded peaks that Ives describes in his report. The storm passed away during the night but left the air cold and raw. Our trail still leads over desolate wastes of sand with here and there patches of bare sand rock. After going 10 or 12 miles we suddenly came to Hotervill [Hotevilla] or the Oryba Garden. Found a couple of Moquis women and one man gathering the crops. 'Tis watered ingeniously from a spring nearby. The garden is planted on the side of a cliff for protection against robbers. They, the Moquis, gave us a few tomatoes while we watered our stock. Climbed the butte and continued our way to the town. We at last came to the dugway along which the trail leads and after winding around for a couple of miles came in sight of far-famed Oryba- a lot of stone houses built on the point of the rock. Soon the blanketed Moquis flocked to the tops of their houses to see the ""Oraibi ("place of the rock") was the largest and most important of die Hopi villages in northeastern Arizona, and it has always been most reserved among them in relations with the whites. A Shoshonean people, the Hopi have been known to die whites since Coronado's time. Of die seven Hopi towns, Oraibi is located on what is called the Third or West Mesa. Hano, Walpi, and Sichomovi are situated on the First Mesa, while Mishongnovi, Shongopovi, and Shupaulovi are situated on die Second Mesa. The use of the alien name "Moquis" for die Hopis was widespread, and travelers (among diem Qem himself) compounded the confusion by applying the name "Moquis" specifically to the inhabitants of Sichomovi. The names of all die towns have been subject to many variant spellings; compare Clem's spellings in his journal entry for October 30 with those of the Mormon Indian missionary, Thales Haskell, whose journal of a visit to Oraibi in 1859 was published in tiiis Quarterly, 1944, vol. XII, pp. 69-95. 462 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY show come in, which we did in style. Found out where Triba181 [Tuba] lived; unpacked and camped. Mrs. Triba then invited us to dine, offering peek, cano and melons, which we partook of heartily, especially the peek made of corn meal and baked in wafer-like sheets. We of course excited a great deal of curiosity and soon had a large crowd around us. As they are great pil­ferers we watched them closely. Wandered about town looking at things in general. Several Navajos were in town, one of which had a handsome blanket which I tried to trade for but he asked too much for it. The Moquis all knew Jacob. Toward evening a crowd came riding double on donkey from a husking bee from the field below. The belles in the market wore their hair done up in knots on the side of the head looking for all the world like rams' horns. One Moquis named Enoch, could talk English very well. I took quite a fancy to him. He wanted to trade me four blankets for my mare; "Oh yes! me want him!" but I could not see it in that light. Went into several of their houses and saw their mode of living. The houses are sub­stantially built and plastered on the inside, a small fire-place being in the corner. Saw Tuleta, the fellow the Maj. left at Santa Fe. The town contains perhaps some 300 or 400 peo­ple. Their buildings are connected and line narrow, dirty, filthy streets. One has to go upstairs to get into them, being built that way for protection. At sunset I asked one of them for some peek. He immediately invited me to his "Ho-za" and placed before me a bowl of meat, vegetables, soup, 6c, 6c; cheerfully mixed some peek and a luscious melon. We had quite a lively conversation, as I had the keyword of the language, "Em-match-ee," (what is this?). Then I took the coffee pot and boiled some coffee for supper. They sent a melon and some peek to camp. Well, I have seen the Moquis. Oh, yes! In this town are several "Albinos,""2 or white Indians. Late at night spread our blankets by our traps and went to sleep to dream of Moquis. Oct. 24th. Held a consultation this morning and concluded to go to the farther towns and work towards home, so while Andy went after the horses Jacob rustled some peek while Jack and I boiled some coffee. Wood is a cash article, as there is none within 5 or 6 miles of town, and is packed here on their (the Moquis) or on donkey's backs a litde at a time. Triba ""Chief Tuba, who moved to Moenkopi, was baptized a Mormon, visited Salt Lake City, and was a great friend of John D. Lee. Tuba City, Arizona, was named for him. 'These albinos gave some substance to the theory among Mormons tiiat the Hopi were "Welsh Indians," descended from a lost colony of Welshmen. Brigham Young at one time sent missionaries to these people in an effort to verify the legend and tried to induce them to move north of the Colorado; but Mormon missionary efforts among the Hopi were never very successful. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 463 however gave us a few sticks. Their gardens are on the bot­toms below. They depend on rain from heaven to water them and in times of drought will pray, fast and make medicine for it to rain. They are all on their housetops before sunrise to watch the rising sun; they then solemnly descend and eat. My mare and colt struck their fancy and [they] were eager for a trade. We tried to get one of them to go with us to the other towns as interpreter, but could not. After we had packed up started winding down a long bad dugway to the bottom below. The little colt jumped off of a place some 12 or 15 feet high; thought he had broken his neck but he walked off all right to my satis­faction. Now by this time the Indians of the other towns had heard of our arrival and were beginning to string into town with blankets and skins to trade. We told them we were going to Wallapi [Walpi] and would trade there but they did not want to seem to go there [sic] for some reason or other and were disap­pointed. Several of them followed us on horseback part of the way asking us to trade every now and then, but they soon left us. Finally a half-dozen came running up driving donkeys before them packed with stuff to trade, but Jack told them "Ka-wung- wa" and they left us. Our trail led across the bottom some 10 miles then over a butte and then across another 10 mile bottom, when we came to their gardens and sheep at the foot of the butte on which they live. Had to go around to the other side before ascending a broad well-made dug [way] wind­ing and gradually rising till at last we were on the top and in die final town. There are 3 towns on this mesa, the 2 farthest apart being only half a mile. We passed through the gaping crowd to the center town where to our surprise we found a couple of white men, young Crothers and an interpreter named Wallace. Crothers is son of the Moquis' Agent, and is here teaching the young ideas how to shoot; has quite a class of pampooses! [papooses]1 as well as Indians of larger growth. Charlie and Mollie are two bright children of about 5 or 6 years of age; can read and talk a few words of English. The chief gave us a room in which we camped, giving our animals in charge of an Indian herdsman. Begging a little wood we soon had supper over with. Wallace informed us it was against orders to trade or give powder to the Indians on account of their trading it to the Apaches; we however will trade it on the sly. We had of course a house of Indians jabbering and smoking. They smell fearfully and are extremely filthy. No wonder the smallpox has decimated them. The room we are in is about 12 x 20, well-plastered and with a small fireplace in one corner; the door closes with bars. The Moquis, showing a disposition to spend the night with us, we persuaded them to leave.