Utah Historical Quarterly Volume XVI - XVII

Journal of Stephen Vandier Jones, edited by Dr. Herbert E. Gregory - 3

JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 89 Sunday, September 24th. Broke camp at 8 A.M. Immediately ran a rapid in a few minutes let down by line, then ran another rapid, then let down by line again, then let down by line Y mile, and ran 2 rapids, the last small, in going a mile and a half, then smooth water a short distance, then let down by line twice over shallow rapids, with smooth water between and made Camp No. 68 on left bank in a small valley where grew 3 small hack-berry trees and one cottonwood, at the foot of the last rapid, and the head of another. At 11:40 A.M. unloaded the boats; pulled them up on to the sand beach to dry so that they could be repaired. All leaking badly. After dinner Major, Beaman, and myself started up a lateral canon that came in just below camp.68 Kept going until near sunset; found ourselves in a nar­row gorge 4 miles from camp. Hurried back, getting in about 8 P.M.-ate a hearty supper of bean soup, warm bread, and hot coffee, spread our blankets and went to sleep. Let down by line 5 times all from left bank, and ran 4 rapids. Made 4Y miles. Monday, September 25th. The Major and Fred climbed out; Beaman, Clem, and myself went up the lateral canon, they for pictures, I for its topography. Jack, Andy, Prof, and Steward calked and pitched the seams of the boats. Followed up the canon, the walls becoming higher and canon narrower for some 3J/£ miles; turned to the left, then to the right and found our­selves in a narrow gorge the walls not more than 150 feet wide, and 1200 feet high, while back of them rose other walls fully as high. The canon ended in a cliff wall some 200 or 300 feet up; this was an opening above which must have been a water pocket, as the water fell in continual shower, forming quite a pool, from which it ran slowly down. In one place the water had hollowed out a deep pool in which the water stood 4 or 5 feet deep. Our only chance of getting by was to creep under and [an ?] over­hanging rock, which we did and reached the extremity of the canon. Prof, and Steward came while I was sitting at the upper end. After catching and drinking some of the pure water as it fell and making an examination of the rocks, finding some fossils, and a few fine specimens of crystalline sulphate of lime, went down to where Beaman was taking pictures; built a fire, made coffee and ate dinner where the sun never shone. In the afternoon Beaman & Clem remained for pictures, Steward worked up a geological section and I mapped the [Gypsum] canon to the river; getting in to camp near sunset, B. & C. shortly after dark and the Major & Fred about 8 o'clock. Found up the canon gypsum enough to scatter over a half of 111. In one place a bed 100 feet "In Thompson's diary this tributary is called Steward Gulch, in honor of John F. Steward, geologist of the expedition. On modern maps it is shown as Gypsum Canyon, the drainage outlet for the Beef Basin country northwest of Elk Ridge. 90 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY thick. Steward also found a bed of coral 8 feet thick. Most of the rock limestone. Major and Fred reported having climbed 3100 feet. Had a fine view over the country for 30 or 40 miles each way. Tuesday, September 26th. Broke camp at 8:30 A.M. and began our day's work by letting down past a long shallow rapid where all hands were in the water; then ran 2 rapids and came to a huge one where the water fell almost straight down 3 or 4 feet. The "Emma" ran through all right. The "Nell" got a little too far out among the big waves which poured over her bow and she made land with her front standing room full. The "Canonita" came in about the same track, and beside nearly filling in front struck a rock, but received no injury. Soon we came to a rapid, or succession of rapids, near a mile long. Let down to near the center and concluded to run the rest. Started out among big rocks and in passing over a reef the "Dean" grazed. The crew of the "Nell" let down past most of the rapid. The "Canonita" followed in our wake and all brought up at the head of another rapid. The crews of the other boats sat on the rocks and watched us over then each boat followed in turn. When they struck the big waves the boats came bounding from wave to wave sometimes seeming to stand poised in air. Ran another small rapid, and came to a long stretch of quiet river. The walls of the canon closed in, were very steep and near or quite 3000 feet high. It almost made one dizzy to look to the top. Every moment new scenes of beauty were opening and our run for a mile was grand- beyond description. Made noon camp on right bank at 11:55 A.M. A deep gulch or lateral canon was just below camp-and we took Beaman across the river to get a view looking up it. Started at 2:10 P.M., ran a big rapid the first thing, then a small one and left the "Canonita" for Beaman to take views of the canon. The "Dean" ran on some 2 miles; the Major selected a spot on right bank for another view, and when the "Canonita" came up the "Emma" and "Nellie" ran ahead a short distance, and we made Camp No. 69 on right bank in a narrow gorge at the head of a big rapid at 4:15 P.M. A deep lateral canon opened just below camp up which Steward and myself went about % of a mile.68 Others not so far. At first the carion seemed to be the rocky bed of a torrent, not unlike others we had seen, but after climbing 2 or 3 steep walls a scene of beauty presented itself T h e reference is to Dark Canyon-a gorge 1500 to 2000 feet deep and in a few places more than 100 feet wide, that heads in Elk Ridge, trenches Dark Canyon Plateau, and ends at the Colorado River, where it appears as a vertical slot cut into massive, colored cliffs. Its floor, nearly always in shadow, is dotted widi water pools, and tiny springs emerge from cool, dark recesses at the base of its enclosing walls. The canyon supports a luxurious growth of cottonwood, boxelder, ash, grapevines, ferns, and many species of flowering plants-a flora diat seems far out of place in a region of general JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 91 more wonderful than anything I ever saw. The walls rose on either side for 3000 feet. The narrow rocky valley was full of small trees and flowers. A tiny rivulet trickled down, sometimes lost, sometimes pent by the boulders into deep clear pools. We saw cottonwood, willow, a new kind of tree thought to be a species of ash, the Yucca plant, cacti and many strange flowers, while clinging to the rocks were [a] quantity of fern. Birds flitted among the trees, and an insect much like a bee gathered honey from the flowers. The first stratum of rock was red sandstone colored by iron, then a strata of limestone, then sandstone again capped with the white. In the rocks were many fossils, and pendant from the wall were incrustations of salt, colored green by the moss over which the water trickled. It seemed a paradise in the midst of a wilderness, and we called it "Eden Canon." After supper as we lay on the rocks we first realized the height and narrowness of the walls on each side of the river. Looking up, but a narrow ribbon of sky could be seen. Made today 2 line portages and ran 8 rapids, in going 7^§ miles. In letting down past the second bad rapid Prof. Thompson got his foot entangled in the line, was whirled around and fell on the rock, but the Major caught the line and saved him going over. Let down by line twice and ran 8 rapids. Thermometer 100° in the shade at 2 P.M. Wednesday, September 27th. Waited for pictures of the lateral canon until 10:40 A.M., then let down past a rapid full of rock, wall about 3000 feet, nearly vertical on left. Set back a little on right. At high water the river evidently fills the canon from wall to wall. Ran about a mile and made noon camp on left bank in the shadow of the cliff. Beaman took a picture here looking up the river-very fine. Started again at 1:25 P.M. and soon let down by line from left bank; shortly ran a small rapid, soon a big one, and through a very narrow high part of the canon, where we could not see the sun. Ran another rapid then another, soon another; then through another narrow place, soon into a place where the river widened, walls set back, very craggy. Made another line portage past a bad rapid and made Camp No. 70 at its foot just above another rapid, on a small sand bank; large rocks at water's edge, and just below the mouth of a deep gulch, 2 or 3 small hackberry trees, the only vegetation in sight. Camped at 4:40 P.M. Many narrow deep gulches were worn to the river on the route of this day's run, some ending in the cliff wall, others winding out of sight. Very little vegetation along the banks, occasionally a few willows, sometimes a lone hackberry. Walls of mixed sand and limestone, capped either with red or gray. barrenness. Of Dark Canyon Thompson, writes: "We have had grand scenes and beautiful scenes, but none where beauty, grandeur and sublimity were so combined in one glance!!" Scientifically die canyon awaits exploration. So far as known, it has been traversed but once. 92 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY Let down 3 times and ran 5 rapids. At one place Clem was caught by the line and drawn entirely under, but the water being shallow received no injury except a ducking. Looked much like a beaver as he came up dripping. Ran 11 miles. Thursday, September 28th. Broke camp at 8 A.M., ran a rapid the first thing, then through smooth water for near a mile and stopped at the head of a big rapid to wait for the "Nell" and "Canonita" that had stopped for pictures. We were at the mouth of a deep lateral canon that came in from the left. When the other boats came, the Major and Prof, started to climb out, I to sketch the lateral canon, the rest to let the boats down and go into camp at the left foot. Got about \Y miles and returned for din­ner. This was the first rapid or portage I ever failed to make with the "Emma." The canon was grand beyond description, very narrow; the walls rose almost precipitous for 2500 or 3000 feet, in a few places a talus for 300 or 400 feet, but usually very steep. A small stream rippled down through the center, broken into in­numerable little cascades in places forming deep clear pools with rocky bottoms. After dinner Steward and myself again went up the canon to just above the spot where I had been, and met Prof, and Major coming back, having failed to get out. Went back to camp, found a pot of beans cooking, concluded to wait for them, and then pulled out. A slight rain about 3 o'clock. Started at 5 P.M., ran a rapid and to the head of another; landed on a small rock island in the middle of the river, or rather ran as close to it as we could get and jumped out. I took the line, Fred and Jack hung to the boat. Let down over the first part and ran the last. Where the 2 channels meet they rush against the cliff wall on the left, and took hard work to prevent being carried under. Ran into an eddy to wait for the other boats. They came through safe, but all shipped some water. Went ahead, ran 2 more small rapids and came to the head of another. It being too dark to see the [ ] finding some wood we made Camp No. 71 on right bank among big rocks, close under a cliff wall 2500 feet high. Spread our beds on a small spot of white sand among the rocks, and just as this was done there came a storm of wind and rain up the canon. Were obliged to hold our blankets to prevent their being blown away. Soon cleared up, and we saw a splendid sight. Moonrise in the canon. The river here ran west. The light shone upon a crag far up stream. A few dark clouds were in the field of view, their blackness showing more intense by the bright light. The queen of the night sailed slowly and majestically above the peak, bathing the dark crags and darker water with her silver rays. The foam of the rapids was beautifully shown. Such a sight was worth days of toil. The wind blew hard during the night, piling sand on my blankets several inches. Made today 2 line portages, ran 2 big and 2 small rapids and ran 3% miles JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 93 Friday, September 29th. Broke Camp No. 71 at 8:15 A.M. Ran a small rapid, then through quite smooth water down a narrow steep canon, the walls quite smooth at the foot and in rounded crags at the top. Ran the first part of a big bend. From the number of crags in it named it "Mille Crag Bend." [The expedi­tion went on down Narrow Canyon to the mouth of the Dirty Devil, where it was reorganized.]61 [September 30th. No entry.] Sunday, October 1st, [1871]. This morning we took the "Canonita" just below the mouth of the Dirty Devil, hauled it ashore and calked it under a big rock that had slipped down, one edge resting against the cliff forming a cove just long enough. Bea­man left one box of chemicals to use in the spring. We filled it about half full of sand, shovelled sand all around it and bid her good-bye until spring. The "Nellie" went down stream about 2 miles so that Thompson could see if there was any chance of get­ting to the river that way. Major and I struck out up the west side of the Dirty Devil for the same purpose. The rest returned to camp. We had a hard time to climb to the top of the red sandstone here about 2000 feet high. Reached the top about 2 P.M. Made our observations, and saw that a train could come down the gulch between us and the volcanic range to the west. Saw the Wasatch range with snow. Also snow on the range near [Henry Moun­tains]. Reached the river at 4:30 P.M., found the boys with the "Dean" loaded with most of the "Canonita's" things in addition to our own. There were in the boat Major, Beaman, Fred, Andy, Clem, Jack, and myself. Sacks were piled in both standing rooms and we were loaded almost to the water's edge. Mound Canon61 "To facilitate the work of his second expedition Powell made arrangements with Jacob Hamblin to bring supplies to die mouth of the stream which in 1869 had been dubbed the "Dirty Devil." The first supporting party, from Glenview (Glencove), seems to have abandoned its task after crossing die Wasatch Plateau and discovering that die stream thought to be the Dirty Devil was the San Rafael down which the Indian guides refused to go. The second party proceeding northeastward from Kanab lost its way in the rugged country along the foothills of die Aquarius Plateau. Learning of tiiese failures, Powell went to Salt Lake City from the mouth of the Duchesne River July 27, 1871, with die understanding that he would rejoin the expedition at Gunnison's Crossing (Greenriver, Utah) "before die 3rd of September," bringing rations by pack train from Manti. The emergency supplies that reached the hungry boat party a month later (August 29) consisted of "300 pounds of flour, 20 pounds of sugar, and some jerked beef"-a meager allowance for 10 men who by slow stages proposed to traverse 290 miles of river to the Crossing of the Fathers, where additional supplies were expected. It thus became necessary to plan for a rapid traverse with only essential equipment. The "Canonita" was therefore cached, widi the expectation tiiat the following year it would serve as transport for a party who would have ample time for scientific studies. In 1872 (June 26-July 13) the "Canonita" was recovered and brought to the mouth of the Paria. "See note 70. 94 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY commences at the mouth of the Dirty Devil. Ran l}/£ miles, over a smooth river. Orange cliffs on right and gray sandstone on left bank. Made Camp No. 74 on right bank at 5:15 P.M. Steward came in soon after us, Thompson and Bishop while we were at supper. Reported that animals could come down the gulch [Crescent Wash] up which they went, so we will be able to come in easily. Spread our beds on the sand close to the river, and think it time to retire.66 Monday, October 2nd. Put all the things into 2 boats. The crew of the "Canonita" was divided. Beaman to pull bow oar in our boat, to allow Fred to sketch. Clem, bow oar in the "Nell," to enable Bishop to keep his map up, and Andy to ride on the center cabin of the "Nell." This gave 5 men in each boat, and made heavy loads. Broke camp at 7:35 A.M. Soon ran a long shallow rapid, then another small one, then down a wide river until about 10 A.M. We saw the ruins of a house on a point above the valley by a small creek on left. Went ashore and up the cliff. Found 3 walls standing of red flat stone. The building had been about 12 x 22 feet outside, and the wall was about 15 feet high, and near a foot and a half thick. It had opened to the north, which side had fallen down. Longest from east to west. A number of hieroglyphics were cut in the smooth red rock.*1 Further search discovered other smaller ruins, and more figures. Quantities of broken pottery, and chips from arrow-heads were scattered around, with which most of the boys loaded themselves. Made noon camp in order to get sketch of the ruins and figures. This was undoubtedly the site of a Chi-ne-mos town. The gray sandstone had entirely disappeared and the red rapidly running under. Started again at 1 P.M. and ran 11 miles. Ran 5 shallow rapids on one of which the "Emma" stuck, the "Nellie" twice. Saw a ruin on a small hill on left bank near a fine creek [Red Creek] and made Camp No. 75 on left bank at 4 P.M. Prof, and I climbed a red butte [Red Butte] about a mile away, getting up 1215 feet, and back to camp in 2}^ hours. Camped in a narrow valley-no wood except dry willows. Made 16 miles. ""In their haste to reach die Crossing of die Fatiiers before tiieir food supply was completely exhausted die party gave little attention to the wide stretch of river between the tributary Dirty Devil and the San Juan. They passed, widiout comment, the mouths of die White, Red, Moki, Lake, Hansen, Bullfrog, and Hall creeks and made no records of the prominent sand terraces and die well-marked trail that leads down White and Trachyte creeks to Dandy Crossing-for centuries an established Indian route and later a part of a Mormon wagon road from central Utah to Bluff, on die San Juan River. At Dandy Crossing (Hite) the ranch established by Cass Hite (1883) served for many years as a supply station and post office for the placer gold miners on the river below. "Rock houses, artifacts, and remnant agricultural plots characteristic of the Basket Maker and Pueblo cultures are particularly numerous in White, Red, Moki, and Lake canyons. JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 95 Tuesday, October 3rd. Broke Camp No. 75 at 7:55 A.M., and ran until 11:50 A.M., only stopping once for a few minutes. The river was wide and most of the time deep. Running 9 small rapids, most of them along with small waves, and some quite shallow; none bad. Made noon camp on left bank, near the mouth of a small clear creek. The orange sandstone about 600 feet above the river, entirely bare-not a tree or shrub on their summits. Climbed out while waiting for dinner and found a deep well or cistern on the top of the rocks about 40 feet deep, containing 6 or 7 feet of water. Started at 2:05 P.M. and ran steadily until 5:10 P.M., when we made Camp No. 76 on left bank in a small valley with a wide bench of sand. Carried wood near Y °l a mile. The river this afternoon ran in long sweeps, usual course about south­west. Found the longest straight section of the river yet seen. Called it 2Y miles. River usually about ^ of a mile. Ran 3 long shallow rapids, getting aground once. Whenever we ran west the dip was down and rocks rapidly ran under. Estimated that we ran under 1200 or more feet. All Triassic. Hills at camp 600 or 700 feet high, of rounded mounds of orange sandstone. Soft and easily weathered. Ran 12 rapids and made 28J4 miles. Yesterday Andy shot a duck and gave us duck soup for breakfast this morning. Wednesday, October 4th. Broke camp at 7:50 A.M., and pulled out steadily for about 3Yi miles when we came to a long shallow. Wound slowly along among the rocks, striking occasion­ally until at last the "Emma Dean" hung on the bottom, and soon the "Nellie Powell" was fast. All hands in the water most of the time for an hour in making little more than a mile. The rocks along the bank were quite smooth, rounded at top into small mounds. Underneath these was a stratum of rough heterogeneous red stone, very rough. The dip was nearly south and as we were running nearly in that direction they ran under and gave us trouble.68 Continued to find shoals with rock bottom, current usually slow but sometimes quite swift. In one of these places the "Nellie" struck with such force as to break a board in the center cabin and until noon one man was kept busy bailing. Made noon camp on right bank on a small spot of gravel, unloaded the "Nellie," pulled her ashore and repaired damages. Started again at 2:30 P.M. and pulled steadily until 5:15 P.M. and made Camp No. 77 on right bank. Landing bad among rocks. All spread our beds beside one big boulder on the only level spot to be found and slept thicker than 3 in a bed. The homogeneous orange sandstone, came to the river at camp and walls about 1000 feet high. A mile or so above camp passed gray beds at the water's edge, curiously worn. In one place 2 long pier-shaped pillars ran far in to the T h e reference to the tilted strata is the Waterpocket Fold, which is crossed by die Colorado River between Hall and Escalante creeks. 96 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY river, nearly opposite each other, and the boys named them bridge piers. Rations short, and men tired. Made 2 0 ^ miles. Thursday, October 5th. Broke camp at 7:40 A.M., and pulled without stopping until 12 M. Ran a small rapid just after starting. The rest of the way nothing worthy of the name. Passed the mouth of the San Juan at 11:30-a very dirty stream about 4 rods wide and 2 feet deep coming in from the east, or left, with bare rock walls. Current quite swift. Its waters colored those of the Colorado, now quite clear, for a long way. A short dis­tance below here Prof, and the Major landed on right bank and climbed the bare cliff wall 700 feet high. We ran about a mile farther and made noon camp on left bank on the sand. Awful hot. Back a few rods ro*e a steep bank on which grew some willows and a few small oak trees. The wall on this side was back from the river about Y or a mile. A deep canon was cut in the smooth homogeneous sandstone, going up which, as it wound along, we came to a sudden turn to the right where grew 6 fine cottonwoods forming the portal to an oblong square eroded out of the solid rock. Estimated its dimensions to be 500 feet long, 300 feet wide, 200 feet high to the sky light, which was in the shape of 2 triangles 400 feet high. In it could be comfortably seated 25,000 people. The resonance was so clear that a speaker could be heard in every part. At the rear and some 200 feet high the canon con­tinued, very narrow, down which must come quite a large stream during a rain. Called it "Music Temple."80 Mound Canon ends at the mouth of the San Juan. On the Orange Cliff through this canon are small rounded mounds of bare rock, extending for miles in every direction. Monument Canon begins where Mound ends.™ "Music Temple is representative of the many grottoes, overarched al­coves, and short box-headed canyons developed by springs and seeps in die massive sandstone walls of Glen Canyon. In sharp contrast to adjoining exposures of dry bare rock, their wet walls and pools of clear water on their floors favor the growdi of oak brush, cottonwood trees, willows, ferns, and flowering annuals. Pictographs show that some of die alcoves were used as camp sites by ancient Pueblo tribes. Carved on the walls of Music Temple, Dellenbaugh (1871) found the names of Seneca Howland, O. G. Howland, and William Dunn, the three members of the Powell party of 1869 who were killed by Indians on the Uinkaret Plateau. On tiieir voyage down die river in the "Canonita," 1872, Dellenbaugh, Jack Hillers and W. D. Johnson added their names. "Glen Canyon-the rock-bound trench through which the Colorado passes from die mouth of Trachyte Creek (Hite) to the mouth of the Paria River (Lees Ferry)-was originally mapped as Mound Canyon above die moudi of die San Juan River, and Monument Canyon between the San Juan and die head of Marble Canyon. In a broad sense die two parts are topographically distinct. Throughout its course in Glen Canyon the Colorado flows close to the base of lofty, nearly vertical, brightly colored walls, and, as compared with Cataract Canyon above die Marble Canyon and Grand Canyon below, is a quiet stretch of water. The rim rock and die adjoining back country north of die San Juan, particularly on the Red Rock Plateau, have been eroded JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 97 No break, the rocks assuming another shape. Started at 3 P.M., and ran through swift water all the afternoon, running 5 rapids. Two big ones. At the head of one the "Nellie" got aground, and received some hard bumps. The "Emma" struck in the same rapid, but no damage done to either. Made Camp No. 78 on left bank at 5:35 P.M. Just before reaching camp we saw on the shore, among the cliffs, an animal that some called a wolf, others a wild cat. Could not get near enough for a shot. Ran 25 miles. Ran 6 rapids, besides a mile of very swift water that would all be called rapids on any other river. The homogeneous sandstone to the river at camp. All Triassic. Used the last part of our sugar at supper. Have 75 pounds of flour left. Are using about 25 lbs. per day. Friday, October 6th. Broke camp at 8 A.M., and ran in a general southwesterly direction, but in very short turns in every direction. About 10 A.M. while passing a small valley on the right saw where there had been a recent fire. Pulled ashore, found the fresh tracks of shod horses, and shod men in the sand, and that the fire had burned for some distance along the shore. Sup­posed these to be sign of [Jacob] Hamblin, who was to be at the Ute crossing by the first of the month and that he had come up the stream looking for us and had found a pass to the river, but as we found no one, went ahead. Shortly saw a monument of rock in the middle of the river. It was surrounded by the water, was about 50 feet high and 20 in diameter. Ran a big rapid and the "Emma" struck a rock just at the forward full [bulk ?] head of the stern cabin on starboard side. For a moment I thought a hole was burst through, but except starting the pitch in the seam, no damage was done. The "Nellie" struck on the same rock, but was not hurt. At the head of another long narrow rapid we saw a fox on the rocks. Fired a number of shots and the "Nellie" landed; we were too far down to stop. He was not hit, but so badly frightened that he jumped into the river and went down the rapid, probably drowning, as we saw him no more. I was seated on the front of the center cabin while running this rapid and we struck a rock bow on, causing me to lose my balance. This was the first rapid the "Emma" ever ran without my having hold of the steering oar. Made noon camp on left bank on a smooth rock in the shade of the cliff at 12 M. Started at 2:10 P.M. and pulled rapidly down stream, finding one small rapid, and shortly came to the finest view yet seen on the river, I think. The stream could be seen ahead for 2 or 3 miles, the walls long and wide, of red sandstone; above them and stretching far into mounds, domes, and round top ridges. Below the San Juan, and particularly on the Rainbow Plateau west of Navajo Mountain, erosion has produced a marvelous display of monuments-color-banded towers, buttes, and flat-topped mesas. 98 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY into the distance on either hand rise monuments composed of gray and buff sandstone, with thin strata of limestone, the whole forming a beautiful picture, but awfully silent and desolate. About 3 P.M. thought I saw something white waving on the shore, and soon we heard the report of a gun; shortly after saw a man on the bank. Pulled in and greeted Captain Dodds, George Riley and John Bonnemo[r]t, the first from the Uintah Indian Agency, the two last miners prospecting.'1 Made Camp No. 79 on right bank at 3:45 P.M. in a small valley at the mouth of a deep canon creek. Found our rations all right, as also bundle of mail, which was quickly opened, furnishing letters and papers to every man. But little else save news from friends, and the outside world attracted attention for the remainder of the day and evening. The train had left Kanab on the 15th of September, consequently none of the mail was of late date. About August 25th the latest. Learned that Jacob Hamblin and his men had crossed the river and gone to Fort Defiance, leaving Capt. Dodds in charge of our rations and animals, 8 in number.13 To him we are much indebted. When he parted with the Major and Jack last it was with the determina- ^As instructed by Powell, Captain Dodds arrived at die Crossing of die Fadiers "before September 25." For two weeks he traveled back and forth along die canyon rim "looking for a sign." Then, thinking that the river party had met with disaster, he was about to return to Kanab, when the "Emma Dean" and die "Nellie Powell" were sighted. T h e route taken by Hamblin was known to die Mormon pioneers as die "Ute Trail," the "Indian Trail," and die "Moquis Trad," and led from Kanab eastward along the Vermilion Cliffs, across the Paria River, tiirough die "Wahweap Country," and down die walls of Glen Canyon to the Ute ford and soudiward along the base of Navajo Mountain. The ford and die trails leading to it are plainly marked in die topography; it is die only feasible crossing of Glen Canyon and until about 1870 was die only one used by white men between Greenriver, Utah, and the moudi of die Virgin River. (See Gregory, The Kaiparowits Country.) After being visited by die Powell party in 1871, the Crossing of die Fadiers was mapped and pictured by John E. Weyss and by Lieutenant L. H. Marshall of die Wheeler Survey. Captain George Wheeler writes in die official report: This crossing was approached by die party under Lieut Marshall, U. S. Engineers, by die old Navajo trail leaving Paria settlement (the last point of civilization in Utah), ascending a sandy and barren plateau, and following in a south-easterly direction die foot of die high plateau leading out from die Salt Lake Basin rim to die Colorado River. At a distance of 20 miles a mass detached from die plateau, and called Gunshot [Gunsight] Mountains, is attained, whence passing a narrow slit-like gorge, 10 or 12 feet wide, appears an amphitheater, out of which a trail issues again upon a rocky plain, reaching after a litde more than a mile, a deep narrow canon (represented in die fore­ground of die view) [now known as Padre Creek], which is descended over precipitous rocks, die debouche from which opens upon one bank of the Colorado (elevation 3,193.3 feet). Slight water ripples mark die line of the ford, which is reported as die only one for 300 miles, which of itself is only practicable, and then on horseback, at low- HMMSIIMt*-c U*Ma-T"ACd TSSo- 554 GREEN AND COLORADO RIVERS TOTHE MOUTH OFTKE VIRGIN RIVER. For sectonal maps of the rivers showing the topography in greater detail, see Utah Historical Quarterly. 1947, vol. XV, pp. 33, 37, 121, 126, 130 and 149 JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 99 tion to find a route in to the mouth of the Dirty Devil and bring us supplies at that point if possible. Went far enough, in company with Hamblin, to determine that they could reach the Colorado there, returned to Kanab, found a missive telling them to come to the old Ute crossing, did so, and remained with our things until our arrival. Had been anxiously looking for us since Sep­tember 25th. Ran [ ] miles. Saturday, Sunday and Monday, October 7th, 8th 6 9th. Everyone busy in finishing up maps, records, 6 c , to be sent out by the train on the 10th, and in writing letters. Major Powell and Hillers will go out with the train to Kanab, then to Salt Lake to procure things for the winter. We will go on down the river to the Paria, reaching there about the first of November, where we will meet a train and go to Kanab. Capt. Dodds and the miners go out with the train. Saw gold washing here for the first time. These men say that there is gold all along the river, although they have not found it in paying quantities yet. Dodds told me that it was the intention of Riley and himself to prospect the canons of the Green this winter, build a boat at Uintah and go down the Green and Colorado next summer.'3 Am much afraid they will be wrecked. While at the junction of the Grand and Green received an injury on my right ankle that is now troubling me very much, as it is a swelling at my right knee, which I fear is rheumatism. Nights cold, but pleasant. Tuesday, October 10th. This morning witnessed the novel sight to most of us, of packing the things to go out on horses; bid the party good-bye and saw them go up the steep rocks to the trail that crossed about a half mile below camp. Everyone so tired that we took a rest. Steward complaining a good deal. Wednesday, October 11th. Prof., Bishop, Beaman and Clem, took the "Emma Dean" and started up the river to be gone 2 days, intending to climb out to see the country, get pictures and water stage. It will be found marked on atlas sheet 67, at approximate longitude 111°17' west from Greenwich, and latitude 37°01' north. This is no longer of practical importance since a ferry has been established at die mouth of Paria Creek. The scene is one of re­markable grandeur and almost unique in its loneliness. [See also Mr. Kelly's note, p. 350.] This report of gold carried to die Utah settlements by Captain Dodds foreshadowed the mining boom of the eighties during which placers were worked on 21 bars in Glen Canyon, some of which were profitable. To die Indians, die miners were unwelcome. It appears that the Paiutes, also the Utes and Navajos dreaded their coming: "if they find any mines in our country it would bring great evil." Probably because they were tiiought to be miners who had crossed die Grand Canyon, the Howlands and Dunn, mem­bers of Powell's 1869 expedition, were killed by the Shivwits. The history of mining in Glen Canyon is recorded by Gregory in The San Juan Country. 100 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY C. [etc.] Steward too unwell to sit up.M With Fred to take time, I took observations for time and latitude. This with waiting on Steward kept all 3 of us, Andy, in camp, busy. Am too lame to climb out. For the first time am off active duty.™ Day quite cool, and night more so. Thursday, October 12th. Steward yet unable to sit up. Had fever in the morning and complains of great pain. Day very much like winter. Sun obscured by clouds part of the time. Thermometer down to 35° in the morning, reached 65°, then went down to 48° at night. Barometer showed falling weather, the clouds betokened snow, and soon after dark a cold rain began falling. Between pain and cold got very little sleep. The up river party returned. Reported going up stream about 5 miles. Found among other things some Chi-ne-mos hieroglyphics. Friday, October 13th. Prof, and Bishop climbed out among the monuments. Beaman took some pictures and cached a box of chemicals to leave until Spring. Steward able to sit up but a few minutes. I on the crippled list, the rest resting. Day more like December in Illinois than October anywhere, unless it be in the Eolar regions. Ice this morning Y i n c n thick. Thompson and ishop reported Mount Seneca Howland, a high mountain some 10 miles east, white with snow, and covered with clouds-still snowing.™ Nearly everyone in camp slept cold. Saturday, October 14th. Prof, and Bishop again went out following the trail toward the Paria 4 or 5 miles. About 11 A.M. we saw 2 Indians on the trail above camp who soon came in. I met them, shook hands, and the elder embraced me putting his cheek to mine several times to signify that we were friends. After shaking hands all around, they were seated; we had a smoke, then the old man produced some letters from the agent at Fort Defiance stating that "Agua Grande" the bearer, was an influ­ential chief among the Navajos, was peaceably disposed and recommending him to any white men he might meet. Neither could speak any English, but told us by signs there were 9 in the party, that they were travelling over to the settlements, had "The illness of Steward proved to be serious. He was too weak to walk or go on horseback and in camp suffered continuously. After being taken to Kanab he slowly recovered some of his usual good healdi but thought it wise to sever his connection with the expedition and return to his home in Illinois. "Because of his physical condition Jones was unable to work for nearly two months. Clem Powell reports that he was treated as a hospital patient on the way to Lees Ferry and on the overland trip to House Rock Springs. On November 11 he was taken by special conveyance to Kanab, where "house remedies restored his health." "The prominent dome-shaped mass named in honor of Seneca Howland, a member of the Powell expedition of 1869, was called Sierra Panoche by the Macomb expedition of 1859. On the official government maps it bears die name Navajo Mountain. JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 101 crossed the river at the ford, and were seeking grass for their ponies. As the dinner hour approached the younger of the 2, evidently the old man's son, went upon the rocks and called the rest of the party. Fortunately they did not get in until after we had eaten. Shortly after they came down the cliffs leading their ponies, turned them out to pick the scanty herbage, then greeted us, several insisting on showing their friendship by hugging. There were 8 men and one squaw. The men were the finest looking Indians we have seen, most of them tall, all straight and well formed, several with [the] long black moustache said to be peculiar to this tribe. They soon finished up the remainder of our dinner, then watched us pack up and prepare to leave. Bid our savage friends good-bye and broke camp at 4:20 P.M., the "Nell" in advance with Hattan at stroke and Bishop in bow. We fixed a bed on the center cabin for Steward, who was unable to sit up. In the "Emma" Beaman pulled stroke and Clem bow oars, while Fred occupied the chair and sketched. The walls were of red sandstone from 100 to 500 feet high. Ran 3 miles past the Ute ford and made Camp No. 80 on left bank on the sand under the cliff wall at 5:15 P.M. Steward in a good deal of pain. Sunday, October 15th. Steward spent a very restless night. Did not break camp. In the afternoon Prof. & myself crossed the river and climbed the low rocky hills, getting up about 500 feet. Saw a great many of the isolated buttes that rise above the general level of the plateau and are called monuments." Also a long upheaval far down the river supposed to be an immense plateau below the Paria River. Back to camp near sunset. Passed a rest­less night, suffering with Rheumatism. Steward slept quite sound. Found on the hills pieces of igneous rocks and broken bits of Lava, tending to show that the mountains north of us are extinct volcanoes. The plateau on both sides of the river is probably Triassic. The monuments above the plateau Jurassic, all sand­stone. Monday, October 16th. Waited for Clem to get a picture. Morning very cold. Broke camp at 10:10 A.M. and ran down a smooth river, with the exception of 2 small rapids, with nearly vertical walls of red rock on both sides from 50 to 400 feet high. Occasionally caught glimpses of the monuments on top composed of red and gray sandstone. Made noon camp on left bank on a narrow strip of sand, with a wall 400 feet high back. Quite warm in the sun, but uncomfortably cool in the shade. Steward seemed "South of the Colorado and east of Navajo Creek die Rainbow and Kaibito plateaus are famous for their display of mesas, columns, and pinnacles that rise 200 to 800 feet above die general surface. The "bits of lava" men­tioned by Jones must have been pebbles carried downstream. No igneous rocks are exposed in Navajo MountaiD. and die rocks in adjacent regions are sandstones. 102 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY a little better but unable to sit up. Started again at 2:10 P.M. and pulled without stopping, seeing no special change in the rocks. Passing the mouth of one small canon, ran 2 small rapids, and made Camp No. 81 on left bank at the mouth of a small, clear stream that came down a small lateral canon. Bank very steep and covered with a thick growth of willows, among which we hunted an hour to find wood enough to cook supper and break­fast. The sun went out of sight just as we made camp, and the air soon grew quite chilly. Prof, went up the creek. I was too lame to travel. A long rapid just below camp sounded like wet feet in the morning. Ran 4 small rapids. Walls at camp rougher, from 300 to 400 ft. high. Ran 10% miles. Tuesday, October 17th. Last night was cold. Thermometer down to 25° above zero at daylight. All slept cold. Suffered a great deal with my leg. Sun rose for us at 8 A.M. After break­fast Prof., Bishop and Fred climbed the wall back of camp and on right bank of the creek, for observations. The sun soon warmed the earth and made things more pleasant. The climbing party returned at noon. They saw the same elevation seen on the 5th supposed to be beyond the Paria. Also beyond they saw what was supposed to be the great Kibab [Kaibab] Plateau. No monuments down the river. Clem made 2 fine views of the river canon. The creek that came in below camp was about 15 feet wide, a foot deep, clear and cold. It evidendy drains the south side of Mount Seneca Howland and rises far toward the Navajo country, so its name was declared as "Navajo."™ Broke camp at 2:10 P.M. Ran a small rapid and pulled for about an hour through smooth water and stopped on right bank for a picture looking up the canon. After this ran another small rapid, then smooth water until 4:40 P.M. and made Camp No. 82 on left bank among big rocks that had fallen from the cliff. A small spot of sand afforded just room enough for beds. Andy made the kitchen on a large flat rock. The walls of the canon this day were nearly vertical, from 400 to 800 feet high, in many places quite narrow, of red Triassic sandstone much colored with iron. Where the pictures were taken several -warm springs came out of the cliff wall. Ran 2 rapids, and made (>Y miles. Wednesday, October 18th. Waited for pictures until 10:55 A.M., then broke camp and ran a mile. Stopped on right bank at the mouth of a small clear creek that came down a deep nar­row canon. Decided to wait until afternoon to get pictures when the sun would be right, so made Camp No. 83 at 11:10 A.M. In the afternoon Thompson and Fred went up the creek canon "Navajo Creek and its branches drain die Navajo Indian Reservation between Navajo Mountain and die Echo Cliffs. They occupy canyons sunk deeply in die surface of die Kaibito and Rainbow plateaus. JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 103 a mile and a half but found no place to climb out.™ The walls grew narrower the farther they went. At the river they were about 100 feet wide, and 500 feet high; at the point reached by them, about 40 feet wide and 800 or 900 feet high. They, as well as the walls along the river, about the same height of the smooth red homogeneous sandstone. All Triassic. At the mouth of the lateral canon stood a tower of rock that rose isolated to the height of about 400 feet and not more than 25 by 50 feet at the top. Our beds were spread on the sand near this rock that looked weird in the faint moonlight. Sun rose for us at 7 A.M. and disappeared at 4:05 P.M. Slept comfortable the first night for a week. Ran one mile. Thursday, October 19th. Sun arose for us at 7:35. Broke camp at 9:25 A.M. Ran until 10:45, passing 2 small rapids but no waves, and made noon camp on left bank on a small sand beach, at 10:45 A.M. Canon walls grew higher and narrower. At noon camp about 1200 feet high, and not much wider than their height. Very much discolored with iron. Presented a very somber ap­pearance. A short distance above camp on right bank, the water of a small gulch falls when running near 200 feet into the river. Clem made 2 views of the spot. In several places this morning the walls were seamed vertically, cracked from top to bottom. Started at 2:05 P.M. and ran about half an hour and stopped on right bank for pictures just below where the river turns from east to south and again to west very shortly, leaving a round smooth wall of rock on the right. Crossed to left bank and made Camp No. 84 on a small sand bank. No timber-a very few willows, but driftwood enough for fire. No change in the canon walls except at camp a thin stratum of limestone about 200 feet above the river. The dip seemed to be nearly north, but very slight. The sun went behind the cliff at 4 P.M. Ran 2 small rapids, and made 6% miles. Friday, October 20th. Last night was quite warm but the wind blew the sand over us. The Barometer indicated stormy weather, both at the time of the observation last night and this morning. Waited again for pictures and did not break camp until 10:35 A.M. Then ran until 11:20 and stopped on right bank for a view of the canon walls. Made noon camp opposite, on left bank. The sand blew over everything. Walls of the canon getting higher. At noon camp about 1000 feet. A thin stratum of lime­stone about 150 feet above the water, but only appearing occasion­ally. Started at 2:10 and ran until 3:10 P.M., when we made Camp No. 85 on the left bank at the mouth of a deep gulch, in the nearest approach to a valley found in this canon. There were T h e reference is to Wahweap Creek, which drains die "Wahweap Coun­try" east of the Paria River. Because of the high rock tower at its mouth the stream was originally mapped as Sentinel Rock Creek. 104 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY evidences of the valley having been visited both by people and horses quite recently. A small shanty of sticks was found, as also a small clay jug, both probably the work of the Navajos. Whether the trail goes up the gulch or down the river we do not know yet. The canon walls grew higher, reaching about 1200 feet above camp, then ran down to 800 feet at camp. All red Triassic sandstone. Below the gulch where we were camped the wall on the left rose in jointed structure looking very much like an upheaval, while just below that the cliff was sloping and a bank of beautiful bank of [sic] maroon-colored sand stretched from near the top clear to the river.80 The wind blew a gale all the afternoon. Ran 5% miles. Saturday, October 21st. I broke down entirely this morn­ing, and was obliged to lie on my blankets all day. Suffered a great deal but tried to be as cheerful as possible. Prof., Bishop and Fred went down the river and climbed the wall over the bank of sand mentioned. Reached the height of 2400 feet. Had a good view of the country, found it very desolate. Fired some shots and found the echo to last 20 seconds. Named the point where they were "Echo Cliff."81 Saw a good camp at the mouth of the Paria, some 3 miles below this camp. Sunday, October 22nd. In camp all day. Steward able to sit up but little, I not at all. Several others complaining of rheumatism. Spent a wretched day and night. Weather quite cold. Monday, October 23rd. Broke camp about 8 A.M. Steward occupied the chair on the main deck of the "Emma." I lay on the deck of the "Nellie." Ran 3 miles and made Camp No. 86 on right bank just above the mouth of the Paria River at 9:10 A.M. As soon as camp was selected Fred spread my blankets among the willows. I hobbled to the spot, lay down, and no one knows how long before I will leave them. This is one of the crossings of the Navajos, and the Mormons used to keep a guard here; not necessary now as the Indians do not raid. This seems to be an axis. The rocks change suddenly both in dip and structure. The limestone appears, and just below camp is a big rapid. This is the end of our journey by water this year. Here the boats will be cached and everything left, not necessarily needed, until "A high ridge of wind-blown sand near Echo Peaks extends from die bottom to the top of the canyon walls and provides die only means of access to the highlands above. It is described and illustrated by Gregory in Geology of the Navajo Country. Trom Echo Peaks, which rise about 2000 feet above the Colorado River, the Echo Cliffs extend southward in Arizona to die vicinity of Tuba City. They are parts of a zone of upturned rocks which have been broken and eroded into picturesque domes and pinnacles. JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 105 spring.82 On the right bank near our landing lay a rough flat bottomed boat built by the Major and his party who crossed here last year on their way to the Chi-ne-mos towns, Fort Defiance & San Ta-to [?]. Walter Graves83 had painted on the side of the boat the name "Canon Maid." It was a sorry looking craft, but would probably hold together to cross the river. At camp was a small valley surrounded by cliffs. Opposite low walls rising back, down which the trail comes from the Navajo country. [October 24th-27th. No entries.] Saturday, October 28th. The week has been spent in finish­ing up maps, notes and sketches, taking and working observa­tions, and examining the surrounding country. Find that one trail crosses the Paria, a stream about 50 feet wide, and \Y deep; comes from the north, and is tolerably clear, goes down the Colorado some miles, then ascends the Kibab [Kaibab Plateau] sometimes called the Buckskin Mountains, thence nearly west to Kanab. The other trail follows up the Paria about 30 miles to where the Mormons have some cornfields, then runs southwest to Kanab.84 We can do but little more except wait for our train. This is growing wearisome to me, as I am compelled to lie on my blankets most of the time. Am able to walk a few steps by the aid of a pair of crutches that Fred has made me. Steward is able to walk around, but gains slowly. Has announced his determina­tion to return home as soon as we reach Kanab. About 9 A.M. we heard a shout across the river and upon some of the boys going down they saw some white men and a number of Indians. Pulling across they found Jacob Ham[b]lin, I. C. Height [Haight], George Adair, and Joseph Mangrum [Mangum]. With them were 8 Navajos from the Agency at Fort Defiance. Ham[b]lin and his party had been over to make a treaty with the Indians, and put a stop to raiding if possible. Had succeeded to his entire satisfaction, and had opened trade with them, and his party were carrying the finest blankets I ever saw over to the settlements 82According to the plans adopted by Powell, die river traverse for 1871 was to end when the expedition reached the mouth of the Paria and to be continued in the summer of 1872. The intervening time was to be given to land surveys. "Walter Graves, as topographer of the Wheeler Survey, later made the first map of the region that includes the lower Paria River, the Marble Canyon of the Colorado and the Echo Cliffs. He had been with Powell in 1870. MIn 1871 and for many years thereafter die most used route for pack trains and wagons from the mouth of the Paria to Kanab followed the base of the Paria Plateau and the floor of House Rock Valley, crossed the northern end of the Kaibab Plateau, and continued along the Vermilion Cliffs past Navajo Wells. A much more difficult route was the trail, still occasionally used, that ascends the east wall of the Paria Canyon near its mouth, crosses Clark Bench, descends to the floor of Paria at the abandoned site of Adairville, follows die river northward to Paria, then joins the House Rock road on the flat lands east of Buckskin (Kaibab) Gulch. 106 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY to trade for horses, 6 c * They were under the charge of Co-ne-co, a second-grade chief. Were well formed, and for the most part good looking savages. There were 8 in the party, most of them young men, several with a soft black moustache. They could speak but few English words, but by means of these and our limited knowledge of Spanish and through signs, we were able to understand each other quite well. Their things were crossed in our boats, their animals swimming. Two of the younger members of the party were going to Kanab to spend the winter among the whites. Sunday, October 29th.es Sunday, November 5th, [1871]. Very cold with some rain and snow. Haight and party remained with us. He is an agreeable man in camp. It is hard to believe him guilty of the crimes laid to his charge [the Mountain Meadows Massacre]. Can it be that he would sanction and assist in the murder of women and children? Night cold. Suffered a good deal. Monday, November 6th. This morning Haight, Riggs, Man-grum and Joseph Hamblin [Jacob's son] started for Kanab. W e got under way about 3 P.M. Riley saddled his gray horse "Doc" for me. Fred led him up to my bed, spread a blanket over the saddle, then he and Beaman lifted me on, wrapped me up and I rode to camp. Had 5 horses packed and 5 riding horses. The boys took turns in riding. Good-bye to camp at the mouth of the Paria. Two long cold weeks of suffering have been spent there. Bishop and Andy ahead, found a little water at dark and we made camp. Fred was on hand to take care of me. Made [ ] miles. Tuesday, November 7th. Last night very cold. Up early. Riley got the horses in before breakfast which was before day­light, and we started soon as possible. November 8th, 1871.87 ^For Hamblin's own account (misdated 1872), see James A. Little's Jacob Hamblin (Salt Lake City, 1881), pp. 108, 109. ^Entries for October 29 to November 4 inclusive are missing from die manuscript, probably because Jones was ill. From the records kept by Thomp­son, Clem Powell, and Dellenbaugh it appears that by October 30 the expedi­tion was ready to leave its camp at the mouth of the Paria. The boats had been stored and caches made of the surplus equipment but no means of trans­portation was available. The men employed to bring saddle horses and rations to the river on October 29 "took the wrong trails" and did not arrive until November 4-10 days after leaving Kanab. "At this point there is a break in the manuscript, with no entries between November 7, 1871, and March 31, 1872, found in Vol. 1 of the original diary in die New York Public Library. However, in Vol. 2 of the manuscript diary are found entries covering part of this period, together with some pages of compass bearings and barometrical readings. The entry for January 1, 1872, is illegible in part, and all that may be deciphered reads: "Beaman walked to ] spent die day in hanging out the [ ]. After a [ ] to Kaivav. ! ] their into die party at the School House. Major got into camp about JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 107 Monday, January 29th, [1872], Took 4 horses to the black­smith, and spent the day in Kanav [Kanab]. Weather fine. More like May than January. Visited [W. D.] Johnson's school.88 Tuesday, January 30th. Spent the morning in fixing things for another trip. To Kanav in afternoon. Rode home with Mrs. Thompson. Then [illegible] and McEntee triangulated around red mounds below camp, on the line. Dodds is measuring from 1500 ft. to 3000 ft. [of the base line] per day. Weather splendid, but nights cold. Wednesday, January 31st. Spent the morning in mending clothes, the afternoon in Kanav for a new pair of boots. Thursday, February 1st, 1872. Camp Kanav Gab [Gap] Barometer 25.44 in 5375 ft. Windsor Castle. Fred and Mc started to erect a monument on cliff of Cottonwood Canon. I rode Mor­mon to Pipe Spring80-distance about 15 miles. Road quite sandy, 9 P.M." No other journal entries proper appear until January 29, when die journal is kept consecutively to February 26. From die diaries of Jones's companions, his movements during this gap in his journal may be reconstructed. When his journal lapsed in November, his leg was in bad shape, and on November 11 Thompson took him to Kanab for medical attention. On December 13 he was reported by Thompson as being at Kanab, "getting things ready" for field work. On December 19 he resumed his topographic mapping, first the Vermilion Cliffs west of Kanab, and subsequently the Kaibab and Uinkaret plateaus, work which occupied him tiirough most of January, February, and March. His barometrical read­ings place him at "Camp Kaivav" on January 15, at Navajo Well on January 16, at "Geodetic Point Kaivav" on January 17, and at House Rock Spring January 19, 21, and 23. On January 27 Bishop's diary records that Jones and Dellenbaugh had ridden into Kanab from Eight Mile Spring and joined in a festive evening with some Navajo visitors. At this point Jones's own journal again picks up his story. MSee the sketch of W. D. Johnson, pp. 499-503. "'Pipe Spring is by far the most important source of water along the whole extent of die Vermilion Cliffs in Utah and Arizona. It was a much used meeting place for the scattered Paiute clans and a camp-site for die raiding Navajos. Scouts of the Mormon Church discovered die spring in 1856 and in 1863 James M. Whitmore established "squatter rights" to it by con­structing a dugout cabin and bringing in a small herd of cattle. On the death of Whitmore (1866) the site of the spring was claimed by the Mormon Church, whose leaders saw its strategic position-a center for a large cattle industry; a supply point for prospective emigrants to Arizona; and headquarters for the military forces charged with protecting the soutiiern Utah settlements from die Navajo raiders. It is reported that in 1865 six families lived at Pipe Spring and cultivated 50 acres of irrigated land. In 1868 Bishop Anson P. Winsor was instructed by the Church officials to build a fort-the famous "Winsor Castle," completed in 1870-71. In 1875 the holdings of the Church passed to private ownership but continued to function as a ranch until 1923, when the spring and a few acres of adjoining land were designated by the Federal Government as the Pipe Spring National Monument. In the days of Bishop Winsor, Pipe Spring was not only a military outpost and a ranch that provided livestock for slaughter at places as far distant as Salt Lake City, it was a Federal supply point for prospectors, missionaries, explorers, and for the pioneer setders in the Kanab and Parunuweap valleys. Here Jones and 108 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY runs through the valley all the way. On the right are, first, the line of low Triassic hills that begins near the Navajo well, and continues to Mt. Trumbull. Back of these the Vermilion Cliffs. On the left broken country to the Kaivav Mountains that are covered with snow. Staid at Bishop Windsor's. Had a pleasant visit. Friday, February 2nd. From Geodetic point A to south end base line 6 P. Climbed mountains back of Pipe Spring to monu­ment A. T°°k some bearings. After dinner started for camp in company with Mr. [Jehiel ?] McConnell of Kanab. Met the Major, wife, Vina, and Jack about 4 miles out, the 2 first on their way to the states, Vina going home to Glen Cove, Jack to St. George to bring back the team. The Major will go to Washington and not return until June, probably. Got into camp shortly after dark. Began raining and McConnell staid all night. Bishop moved to Kanab. P. going away as soon as his map is finished. Major; settled up with Beaman last night and dis­charged him. Saturday, February 3rd. Fred went to Cottonwood Canon. The rest went to Kanav. Andy and Joe [Mangum] drew a load of wood. I kept camp alone except the company of 2 Pa-Utes, who staid as long as they could beg anything, then left for Pipe Spring, where the best [rest ?] of the tribe have gone. Sunday, February 4th. All hands spent the day in camp. Bonnemont [Bonnemort], Riley, & Clem came into camp about 4 P.M., having ridden from Stewart's Ranche, on the Kaivav Mountains today. They, Bonne & Clem, have been gone about 3 weeks. Clem got no pictures, thinks his bath was tampered with before starting. Bonne says he will leave us in the morning, and go with Riley. A slight rain in the evening. Monday, February 5th. This morning Bonnemont settled up, bought a saddle, and he and Riley went to Kanav. They will undoubtedly move together again. Joe hunted horses. Mc took a horse to the shop. Clem and I took a load of things to the commissary, and while he prepared materials to try the pictures again, I took an inventory of things. Beaman says he will start for Salt Lake tomorrow. Fred went beyond Cottonwood Canon. Tuesday, February 6th. Fred and I took observations for time, Fred for a circumeridian for latitude but failed on account of clouds. Mc had horses shod. Wednesday, February 7th. Fred and self took circumeridian for latitude at north end of base line, and I worked it up. Not his fellow topographers of the Powell and the Wheeler surveys in 1871-72 obtained most of tiieir beef, mutton, butter, cheese, grain, vegetables, and some of tiieir saddle horses and camp equipment. In 1871 the telegraph wire from Salt Lake City to Toquerville was extended tiirough Virgin City to Pipe Spring. JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 109 a good observation. Dodds' men came in evening to work on the line. Thursday, February 8th. Fred and self took circumeridian observation for latitude at N. end of base line, and worked it up = 37° - 02' 23" 3 = 14,863.5 ft. north of Arizona line. Do not know what the others did. Day warm and [illegible] out. 10,963.5 ft. on Dodds' measurement. Longitude of Salt Lake City 111 °- 53' 30". Difference of time at St. George 6 minutes and 42 seconds, as determined by Prof. Marven [A. R. Marvine] of Lieut. Wheeler's expedition. Friday, February 9th. Fred and I found the boundary line between Arizona and Utah, and planted a star for the accom­modation of Kanab. Clem fixed his things for pictures. Slight rain near night. Weather warm. Saturday, February 10th. Thompson and Mc went to the south end of the base line and Fred and I to Monument C on Lost Spring Cliff to triangulate. Wind very high. Got into camp at dark. Found old Margats, a Pa-Ute in camp. He agreed to show us a route to the Colorado from Stewart's Ranche for a blanket. We have been waiting since Tuesday for Clem to get ready. Sunday, February 11th. Distance from north end of base line to Arizona line 14,863.5 ft. Distance from Arizona line to camp [ ] ft. Staid in camp all day. Mc and Andy went to Kanab. Three prospectors made camp across the creek from us about the middle of the afternoon. They have been lower down on the Colorado. Went in from St. Thomas, crossed the river, and went up to the mouth of Diamond River [Creek]. They in­tend going across the Schoompa [Skutumpa ?] Mountains to the Seveir [Sevier] River. Dodds' men came up in the evening & staid all night. A heavy rain, with thunder and sharp lightning just after dark. Soon cleared up and froze quite hard. Monday, February 12th. Fred and myself went to the right-hand cliff of Cottonwood Canon, to the signal station that Fred and Mc built about a week ago-Signal Station No. 5. Travelled nearly northwest through Kanav Gap, then through the valley to Wolf Spring, then about 2 miles farther to the foot of the cliff; left our horses and climbed 1800 feet in an hour. First about 1500 feet of talus, of sand and rock, then 15 or 20 feet up a cliff wall where Fred first climbed up some cedar poles, then drew the things up with a rope. Then up a narrow gorge be­tween cliff walls to the top. The storm last night was snow on the mountains, and was still about an inch deep. Climbed a pine tree 40 or 50 feet, drew up the Gradientor by a rope, and got some bearings in a perfect gale of wind. Did not get all we wanted and will probably go back tomorrow. Got in at 7:15 P.M., tired, and cold. Thompson & McEntee went to the lower 110 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY end of the line for bearings. The cliff bed Triassic. Joe's father sent for him, and he must quit. Tuesday, February 13th. Wrote letters and worked on the observations in the morning. After dinner Fred and I started for Wolf Spring. F. rode Betsy, I Nugger. Packed old "Gauger" [Yauger ?]. After getting well started, I went to Kanav for the mail and [illegible]. Fred to go on and make camp. The mail brought us nothing, the mail road being still blocked with snow. Got to the spring at 7 P.M. and found camp within a few rods under 2 cedar trees. Saw the fire when a mile away and raised a shout which was answered by Fred. Cooked supper, made our bed, and by the light of dry cedar limbs read an hour or more, then to bed and slept, disturbed only by the howling of the coyotes; a sound however, we were too well acquainted with to give us any alarms. Night the warmest of the winter, so far. Wednesday, February 14th. After breakfast we climbed the same cliff and tree as on Monday, lashed the instruments fast and measured from south end of base line to Mt. Trumbull. Were in the tree from half past 10 till one o'clock, then down, packed up and into camp near sunset. Met some of the Kanab folks out hunting stock to make up their cooperative herd. Thursday, February 15th. Mc and I took load of things to Kanab store. Found the settlement very busy in selecting out stock. Seventeen Navajos came in today and 5 yesterday. They are not as fine looking as the band that were here a short time ago. Joe quit work this morning. Friday, February 16th, 1872. Capt. Dodds drove in the horses that were near camp, then I went about 8 or 9 miles toward the Kaivav Mountains for the rest. Got in about noon. Found the tents and extras all gone to Kanab. Packed up and Andy, Fred, and Clem started for Eight Mile Spring, while Thompson and self took one pack horse and went via the towns. Found Dodds and McEntee there who drove old Dick out to camp. I got there after dark & found my gun missing. Rode back to Kanab, found it and slept in the Hogon [hogan]. Night quite warm. Saturday, February 17th. After breakfast with Bishop rode to Eight Mile, found all the party gone to the Navajo Well except Fred. Packed Buckskin and started on the old trail for the Kaivav at 2 P.M. Traveled through a valley of red sand much cut by quickly [?] for 7 or 8 miles, then struck the Carboni­ferous and passed over a succession of small hills, gradually rising toward the mountains, until night, and made a dry camp between a cedar and pine. Night warm. Sunday, February 18th. Up at daylight. After breakfast climbed the mountain to Signal Station No. 4; triangulated from that back to camp, packed up and got to Eight Mile Spring be­fore sunset and had a drink of cold water. Signal Station No. 4 JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 111 1735 feet above Eight Mile. Found the rest of the party in camp. Mrs. Thompson climbed to Geodetic Point "B," 1500 feet above Navajo Well. Very high wind and some rain in the night. Monday, February 19th. All the party except Fred and I went via Kanav to camp near the gap. We went to Monument "C" on Lost Spring Gap cliff to triangulate. Wind very high. Got into camp just above the gap about 4 o'clock. Camped under the rocks on the right side of the creek. Very sandy, but little wood and a very poor camp. McEntee quit today. Expects to make his fortune in mining with Riley and Bonnemont. Alfred Young began work, taking care of the stock. Jack got back from Beaver Saturday and was waiting for us. Tuesday, February 20th. Spent most of the day in looking for stock. Mr. & Mrs. Thompson, Dodds, and Jack went to Kanab. Came to camp that way in the evening. George Adair is to begin work in a few days. Is to help Dodds get our rations to the river. Wednesday, February 21st, 1872. Thompson, Fred and self spent the morning in platting triangles. Went to Kanab in after­noon for rations. As Alfred did not find all the horses, we will not start tomorrow. Wm. Johnson will begin work in 2 weeks, as soon as his school is out. He will be on the Topographical maps. Thursday, February 22nd. Dodds and self looked up 3 head of missing stock, then went to Kanab. All hands took dinner with Bishop.00 Adair came to camp in evening. Rained in the night, but Jack had pitched a tent for T - A - J - & J [so] we were dry. Mr. & Mrs. T[hompson] have one of the shelters, the rest a wagon cover. Friday, February 23rd. Broke camp at 9:30 A.M. Packed 6 animals, & rode 10. Headed for Stewart's Ranche in a canon [Jump Up Canyon] in the Kaivav, in a southeast direction. Struck the Carboniferous about 6 miles from camp. Gradually up all day. Travelled about 22 miles, turned into a small canon on the left of the main one, went up about Y o r a mile, found a small spring and made camp in a narrow gorge with pine-covered mountains rising near 2000 feet all around us. Alfred drove 8 head of loose animals. Camp 2000 feet above camp Kanab Gap. Snow on the mountains 4 or 5 inches deep. A little in canon. Saturday, February 24th. Broke camp at 8:30 A.M. A grand scene was presented just at the entrance to the main canon. Look- "Curiously, Bishop doesn't even refer to this dinner, though Dellenbaugh writes (A Canyon Voyage, p. 180) that on account of his healtii, Bishop had severed his connection with the field party, "and on die 22d several of us accepted his invitation to dinner, a sort of farewell, for on the following day we started with our whole outfit for the Kaibab." W. D. Johnson took Bishop's place in the field work. 112 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY ing nearly south is a broad canon, or narrow valley surrounded by high snow-covered mountains, on which grow pine, fir & cedar. Going up this canon 2 small canons open on the left. In the first are ruins of Shi-ne-mos houses, and inscriptions on the rocks, near a small spring. This is called Moquis Canon. A short distance above is a small clearing where John Mangum lived last summer. Large pine trees grow all the way up the canon. A snow storm began just [illegible]. Made about 4 miles, to Stewart's Ranche and made camp at 11 A.M. Snowed all day & night. A spring (Big Springs) bursts out of the rock 200 feet above the valley on the right side, comes tumbling down the side of the mountains in a stream nearly as large as my body, forming quite a pool, from which flows a small stream that soon sinks. The formations all Carboniferous limestone, except in one place a stratum of red sandstone on the right side, probably Devonian. Two log houses, unfinished, near the spring. Some [Soon ?] took possession. We pitched our tent and quietly waited for the storm to cease. If the snow does not get too deep Fred & I will go up the mountain to the southwest, while the rest go southeast. Moun­tains about 1800 feet all around us. The canon continuing about 2 miles farther to another spring, then rises to the top of the mountains. Sunday, February 25th. Snowed all day so we stuck close to the fire. Cleared up in the evening. Snow about 8 inches deep. Monday, February 26th. Staid in camp until after dinner, then Thompson, Fred, Dodds & self went up the canon about a mile, then turned into another to the left, past a fine spring, then into another canon to the left, tied our horses, and climbed 800 feet to the top of the plateau. Found considerable snow. Saw a number of deer tracks. Walked among splendid pine timber for miles. We all climbed [to] one pine more than 100 feet. Air too full of snow to see much, but as far as the eye could reach fine pine timber. Camp at dark.01 Sunday, March 31st [1872]. [Enroute from Mount Trum­bull to Kanab.] Up at daylight. As there was no water we could have nothing to eat, so saddled up and started. Rode old Mormon "Here the second gap in the Jones journal occurs, from February 27 through March 30, 1872. Some barometrical readings place Jones at Stewart's Ranch on February 29, and the same day at Camp Kaivav, at tins camp on March 1-2, at Stewart's Ranch on March 5, at the mouth of Spring Canyon on March 6, at "Camp Cedar Spring" die same day and March 7, at "Camp at Pool in Kanab Canon" on the same day and March 8, and again on March 8 at Pipe Spring. On March 9, Thompson writes that he, Jones, and otiiers went into Kanab. From March 11 to March 20 Jones worked with the others in the vicinity of Pipe Spring, then on March 21 set out to investigate the Uinkaret Plateau. On March 25 they climbed Mt. Trumbull, and on March 30 Jones and die new photographer, James Fennemore, set out for Kanab for supplies. Here once more Jones's journal picks up die story. JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 113 and pushed hard. At Pipe Spring at 10:30 A.M. Fennemore02 nearly gave out. Horses very weak. Found Clem who had been boarding at Winsors since we left. Had found his gun. Hunted up our cooking utensils and I got ready something to eat. Made 15 miles. Rain in the night. Monday, April 1st, [1872], Hitched up 4 horses and drove to Kanab. Fennemore went along to get a supply of chemicals. Clem preferred to remain at Winsors. Found Bishop gone to Johnson [Settlement] so took possession of the Hogan and cooked supper, burning my right hand badly. Slept in the wagon, was quite sick all night. Hard rain. Met Beaman who arrived yesterday [from Salt Lake City]. He has a team and materials for pictures and mining. Tuesday, April 2nd. Got ready to leave Kanab at 2 P.M., but as it was raining hard and had been all day concluded to wait until morning.08 Bishop came back in the afternoon. Thinks he will have his map done in another week. Wednesday, April 3rd. Rain all day. Staid in Kanab. Two companies of miners came in on account of the excitement on the Colorado River. They talk of crossing at the mouth of the Paria and going over on to the Little Colorado in the vicinity of the San Francisco Mountains. Thursday, April 3rd [4th]. Loaded up and started at 10 A.M. Roads muddy and bad. Took George Adair" along and also a young man by the name of Dunyon who came from Salt Lake ""James Fennemore was born in London, England, September 7, 1849, and died at Phoenix, Arizona, January 26, 1941-the last surviving member of the Powell expeditions. After learning his trade in Philadelphia, Fennemore was employed as photographer at the C. R. Savage Picture Gallery in Salt Lake City. He joined the expedition March 19, 1872, resigned on August 15, and returned to Salt Lake August 28. As official photographer he took the place of Beaman until replaced by Hillers. It is reported that during die "boom days" Fennemore maintained a studio at Silver Reef and that here his negatives were destroyed by fire. Most of the photographic prints have disappeared. "After completing a preliminary map of the volcanoes about Mount Trum­bull, preparations were made for a survey of the lowlands along the Virgin River in the vicinity of Washington and St. George. The expedition was divided into two parties. Thompson and Dodds explored the Toroweap (Tu weap) trail to the Colorado in anticipation of its use later in the year. Jones and Fennemore returned to Kanab and after obtaining die necessary horses, wagons, and camp supplies, followed the pioneer road through Pipe Spring, Short Creek, Gould's Ranch, and over the Hurricane Cliffs to Berry Springs and on to Fort Pearce-the appointed rendezvous. On finding that Thompson had not arrived Jones tacked a message on the wall of the abandoned fort and returned to Berry Springs, where conditions were favorable for a field camp. "George Adair apparently first became associated with the Powell expedi­tion when he helped Jacob Hamblin take in supplies to die mouth of the Paria late in October, 1871. On February 22, 1872, he was put on the payroll at $40 per month, and was associated with the party through 1872-73 as horse wrangler, packer, and man-of-all-work. Not much is known about Adair, but 114 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY with Beaman, sold his mule to Bishop, who gave him an order on Thompson. He [Dunyon] will go with us until we find the party, unless Winsor will cash his order at Pipe Spring. At Pipe at 5:30 P.M. Found about 50 miners brought into this country by the marvelous reports of fortunes at the mouth of Kanab Canon.06 Learn from those who have been there that there is but little gold and will not pay for working. Fennemore sick with neuralgia. Friday, April 5th. Most of the miners started out this morn­ing, some down Kanab Wash, some across the Colorado at the mouth of the Paria, & some back to Pioche and other mines. We loaded up and started out at 1 P.M., having waited for the roads to dry. After going about 4 miles Jude gave out. Hitched Mormon in with Major and went ahead. Soon met 3 Germans a-foot, with packs on their backs, bound for the mines. Poor fellows, they were tired and nearly discouraged, and well they might be. Shortly after came to where 2 families were camped. The men had gone about 2 miles north of the road to a small spring under the red cliffs to water their stock. Drove one mile farther and camped at the foot of a cedar hill. Pitched a tent for Fennemore who was suffering very much with the neuralgia. No water but what we brought from Pipe Spring. Camp a little higher than Pipe. Road runs over a sagebrush plain but grass good. There were in our party, Fenny, Clem, Adair, Runyon [Dunyon], and self. Drove 8 miles. Saturday, April 6th, 1872. Up at daylight. Got the party camped below us to take the Jude mare back to Pipe Spring. Started at 7 A.M. The horses, not being used to work, stopped at a very steep place where there was a great deal of sand, and we had to unload some of the things and carry up the hill a short distance. Spent 2 hours in getting to the top [Cedar Ridge]. Found a very bad road. In some spots a stiff clay. Made Short presumably it was he whose obituary was printed in die Deseret News, May 27, 1903: Wesley Adair (also referred to as John or George Wesley Adair) a private in Company C of die Mormon Battalion, was born Feb. 18, 1820, in Pickens County, Alabama. He became a member of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints about 1842. Gathered with the Saints at Nauvoo and acted as one of the minute men diere, driven out with the rest of die Saints in the Spring of 1846. Arriving at die Missouri River he responded to die call of the U. S. and became a member of die famous Mormon Battalion and suffered the hard-ships incident to that notable march of Infantry. He joined the Saints in Utah in 1848 and moved to Arizona in 1880, living for a time at Show-low, Navajo County. His life was spent on the frontier and he was a hard-working man, always full of faith in the Gospel, and died May 8th, 1903, 83 years old, at Nutrioso, Apache Co., Ariz. "Lured by reports of gold at die mouth of die Kanab and elsewhere along the Colorado, "hundreds of miners" passed through Kanab and Pipe Springs during the spring of 1872. They returned empty handed. JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 115 Creek at 1 P.M.00 A dirty little stream not fit to drink. Rain and snow nearly all day. Met many miners anxiously inquiring about the mines at the mouth of Kanab Wash. A great many traveling the other way. Down hill most of the afternoon. Watered at a small spring in a large canon at sunset, and drove 2 miles farther and made camp at dark at some large white rocks on left side at the foot of a cliff. Triassic rocks all day. From Pipe to Short Creek 20 miles. From Short Creek to the Troughs [Trough Spring in Little Creek Valley] 14 miles. Made 26 miles. Grass very poor. Rocks all Triassic. Sunday, April 7th, 1872. Last night very cold, wind high, and some rain. Ground frozen some this morning. Broke camp at 9 A.M. Mostly down hill to Gould's Ranche07 where there is a small stream and one adobe house. Roads quite good. Most of the way down a canon and very crooked. A good deal of Basaltic rock, some Lava and some Tracite hills. A number of round bare volcanic hills. Up the [back slope of] Hurricane Hill from Goulds, a long line of red cliffs covered with volcanic debris, rising very gradually from the east, and an abrupt cliff wall on the west. From the top of the hill [Hurricane Cliffs] could be seen Virgin City and Toquerville on the Virgin River. Came to an old stone stockade built by the Mormons. Near by is a spring coming out under a Ledge of Basaltic rock, the fort about 30 feet above the spring. Called Berry Spring.08 Camped at 4 P.M. "It is reported diat in 1859 Short Creek Valley was a "herd ground" for cattle owned by the Mormon Church and that during the period 1867-1900 die springs in the "upper canyon" and also diose at nearby Cane Beds and Canaan were headquarters for prosperous ranches that utilized die luxuriant forage on the "Arizona Strip." At Short Creek the first permanent settlers (1914) installed an irrigation system adequate for watering about 200 acres and dius supplied die needs of 6 to 8 families. "Gould Ranch, in Little Creek Valley, shown on some maps as Workman Ranch, was established by Asa (?) Gould (1863 ?), tiien sold to Jacob L. Workman (1872). It is abundantly supplied with somewhat alkaline spring water, available for irrigating about 100 acres of land. In pioneer days the ranch was a popular stop-over place on the rough St. George-Pipe Spring road. It was many times used as a camp site by exploring expeditions. "Berry Springs, on die bank of die Virgin River, opposite die mouth of Quail Creek, was chosen as a winter sheep camp and later as a home site by the "Berry" brothers, "in the late 60's," and in the "early 70's was the residence of 5 or 6 families.'" The springs yield a supply of excellent water, adequate for the irrigation of about three acres of fertile land. In 1872, long before the village of Hurricane had been founded, Berry Springs was an important station on the Kanab-St. George wagon road to Washington and St. George. The "old Berry ranch" is still occupied during die summer season. Jones's seeming lack of interest in the Hurricane Cliffs is in striking contrast with die attitude of Dellenbaugh, who followed the crest of die cliffs for two days, unable to descend until he found wagon tracks leading west from Gould Ranch. He writes: As die traveller comes to Hurricane Hill he has before him one of the most extraordinary views in all that region if not in the world. Even the Grand Canyon itself is hardly more wonderful. To the right 116 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY Drove 16 miles. Found several miners camped. Snow-covered mountains [Pine Valley Mountains] on the north across the Virgin River, a small, muddy stream flowing down a Lava canon. Monday, April 8tlu Left the boys in camp, mounted old Mormon and started down the Virgin River to find the Fort Pierce Spring, where I expected to meet the rest of the party. On the right bank is a ledge of volcanic rocks as far down the river as I traveled. On the left a table of red rock covered with sand, and an occasional spot of Basalt rising into high hills a half mile or so from the stream. After going about 4 miles the river valley became some wider and saw several houses and small farms. Turned into a canon that ran southeast from the river, which opened into a valley within 2 miles. Climbed a hill to get a look at the country, and saw Washington and St. George very plain. Travelled on up the valley until 3:30 P.M., crossed over a small divide and found Fort Pierce on a hill just above a spring.00 It is a small stone building, quite strong. Seeing no signs of our party [I] followed up the valley to the east, in a wagon road made by parties going to work on the Hurricane hill, until nearly sunset, then camped, ate some cold bread and meat and lay down to sleep a little. Tuesday, April 9th, 1872. Slept but little last night. Up early, ate the rest of my bread and meat, decided to return to Berry Spring and wait to hear from the party. At Fort Pierce met young Miller and Whitmore on their way to the ranche in the mountains. They were too full of wine to give me much in­formation so wrote a note to Thompson, left it on the wall of the fort and started down the wagon track toward Washington. Followed it to near the river then turned up stream to camp [at Berry Springs] getting in at 2 P.M., and found all the party had arrived the night before. Had letters for all of them. Johnson had gone to St. George to telegraph his wife. They [the Thomp­son party] had remained in the mountains [volcanoes on the and below us lay die fair green fields of Toquervule, on die opposite side of die Virgen, and all around was such a labyrinth of mountains, canyons, cliffs, hills, valleys, rocks and ravines as fairly to make one's head swim. I think that perhaps, of all the views I have seen in the West, tiiis was one of the weirdest and wildest ""Fort Pierce," on Fort Pearce Wash, at the base of the Hurricane Cliffs, established by John D. L. Pearce, captain of a cavalry troop charged widi die protection of soutiiern Utah villages from die Navajo raiders, was a fortified station on the pioneer road from St. George to Pipe Spring and other settle­ments along the Vermilion Cliffs. Mabel Jarvis reports that "20 to 30 men were guarding diere in 1865." The erroneous spelling "Pierce" adopted by Jones and other diarists of die Powell Survey appears frequently in publica­tions and on many maps. This comment applies also to "Pierce" (Pearce) Ferry at die mouth of Grand Wash. JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 117 Uinkaret Plateau] until Friday, the 5th, then were obliged to start on account of rations, leaving considerable work unfinished. The snow was 2 feet deep on the summit; they could not follow the trail, got too far to the east and came down at Workman's Ranche 12 miles east of the springs. Their last meal was beans, nothing else. Left Black Prince on the road, "played out." Dodds and Johnson went to the river, spending 5 days. Andy and Jack, down near there taking pictures. Mrs. Thompson stood the trip well. Wednesday, April 10th. Thompson and Adair went to Toquerville after some goods. Spent the day in camp. Wind very high, especially at night. Johnson returned to camp. Thursday, April 11th. I spent the day in looking for old Mormon. Went back on the roads as far as Workman's [Gould Ranch] but neither saw nor heard anything of him. Found a large pool of water about 3Y2 miles from camp, southeast, and some quite good grass for this country. Two families of Mor­mons on their way to the Paria River camped near us. Also 2 camps of miners. Friday, April 12th. One party of miners disagreed this morning-broke up; we bought some of their rations, and they separated. Jack, Fennemore, Fred, and Dodds started for the Uinkaret Mountains again, the first 2 to take pictures, Fred to triangulate. Will be gone 10 or 12 days. Johnson, Andy, and self, started for the Pine Valley Mountains distant some 15 miles north, to be gone 5 or 6 days. Adair went up the river to Rockville to get some grain if possible. Clem staid in camp to do nothing. Alfred to look for Mormon. We crossed the Virgin, went to Harrisburg, a village of 15 houses, some of them good stone ones on a small stream called Cottonwood Creek, that comes from the Pine Valley Mountains, then tried to get up the canon of a mountain stream but failed, and followed an old wagon road up Cottonwood 8 miles, then across a small mountain to the west and made camp at 6 P.M., near a log hut owned by 3 Danes from Washington. They have a little farm in a valley, irrigated by a mountain brook that runs into a canon after passing their farm, falling sheer down 200 feet, forming a beautiful cascade.100 Passed some Pa-Ute wickiups on the road, and met 2 Indians near camp. But little grass for our poor horses. Rode old Roan, and packed Dick. For the first 3 miles mostly Basaltic rocks, then red sand­stone supposed to be Triassic, and toward night through seams of limestone. Came up from Berry Spring 1500 feet. Traveled about 12 miles. ""Mormon converts from Denmark were brought to Washington to work in the cotton mill construction in 1866. Some of them became successful irrigation farmers. At least three places along the base of Pine Valley Mountains are referred to as "the Danish ranch." 118 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY Saturday, April 13th. Before breakfast Pa-Ute Frank and another Indian came to see us and remained to talk and eat until we left. Started at 9:15 A.M., went north up a narrow valley with numerous springs about 2 miles, then crossed a mountain to the west finding hard work to get the horses over, then through gulches to the northwest until 12:30 P.M., when we camped near the foot of the mountain, finding plenty of snow. Wind awful, but we were pretty well sheltered. Found considerable mountain Mahogany and some yellow Pine. Took our horses up a hill a thousand feet above camp to find a little grass. Old Dick gave out and we packed Roan and I drove the gray. Rocks on each side of the valley-light friable sandstone. After crossing the divide, mosdy huge boulders of dark color very nearly approach­ing Granite, containing Feldspar and Mica. The mountain covered with snow and looked as though a hard climb was before us. Some snow in afternoon, but the sky cleared up in the evening and the stars shone as clear and looked as cold as in January. Made a huge fire of Mahogany, a hard heavy wood. Travelled about 6 miles. Sunday, April 14th. Left camp in Mahogany Canon at 8:45 A.M., and all of us started to climb to the west end of Pine Valley Mountains, that being the highest point. Soon got into the snow and climbed a long way over deep drifts, sometimes breaking through and going waist deep. Got within about 400 feet at 2:30 P.M. Could get no higher on account of the snow. Mountain very steep. Climbed a long way up a shelf not more than 3 feet wide where a single false step would have sent us down hundreds of feet. Rocks nearly Granite. Evidently Igneous. The cold was intense, have not suffered so much the past winter. We were very wet from climbing through the snow that was now freezing. Andy built a fire at the foot of a small dead pine where we had to hold fast, while warming, to prevent falling. Did not build a monu­ment but called this Geodetic point "L." Johnson sketched while I triangulated. Started down at 4:15 P.M. After going a few hundred feet Andy slipped, sat down in the snow and slid 200 or 300 feet before he could stop. As he could not get back he went ahead, finally landing in a snow bank up to his neck, after going over a ledge of rock 20 feet high. He went down 1500 feet in 3 or 4 minutes. We climbed down rapidly and just before dark reached camp, wet and tired. We were at an elevation of 9900 feet above the sea, 3000 above Mahogany camp, and 6500 feet above camp at Berry Spring. Estimating that we were 400 feet be­low the summit, the mountain is 10,300 feet high [Mount Burger, altitude 10,324 feet]. We were higher than any other members of the party have been. The mountain is very steep, and I cannot see JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 119 how it can be climbed until the snow is gone. Seems to be very narrow. Is thickly covered with dwarfed yellow pine.101 Monday, April 15th. Andy and self hunted horses until 10 A. M., then packed up and started down the canon through thick oak brush and among huge rocks. Struck an old road after going about 2 miles, that leads from Harrisburg to a little farm in a valley a mile or so west of camp. The road strikes over to Cotton­wood or South Ash Creek near the ruins of an old saw mill, then follows down the creek to the town. Stopped a few minutes at some Pa-Ute wickiups, reached Harrisburg at 4:30 P.M., went down the canon of Cottonwood to its junction with the Virgin, then across to the old fort at 5:45 P.M. Made about 16 miles. Found Clem 6 Alfred in camp. The party mentioned started for the Uing Parets [Uinkaret] Mountains Friday P.M. Mr. & Mrs. Thompson and Adair went to St. George, 15 miles on Saturday. Alfred has spent every day in looking for old Mormon. I think that he, the horse, has gone back to Pipe Spring. Tuesday, April 16th. Johnson went to Washington [Vil­lage]. 102 The rest in camp. A very high wind and a little rain. Quite cold. Mr. and Mrs. Thompson came in near night. Reported that a telegram announced that the U. S. Supreme Court had decided that the trials in the territorial court over which Judge [James B.] McKean presided were illegal, consequently all the Mormon prisoners, from Brigham Young down are released. A jubilee was being held in Washington and Johnson and Adair both remained. Wednesday, April 17th. I started out to look for a telescope lost on my last trip. Found it in Harrisburg. Met Frank and an­other Indian coming in to talk as they said, but really to eat. We have arranged a meeting with all the Utes at the Fort Pierce Spring in 6 days from now. Intend distributing some goods the Major procured in Salt Lake City, and sent to Toquerville. Johnson returned at noon. Reported a big time last night. Nearly every one drunk. From his appearance judge that he assisted. Adair had a fight and remained to have his trial. Came in near night, looking considerably the worse for rough usage. Thursday, April 18th. Clem and Johnson started for Kanab to be gone 5 or 6 days. Clem to get material to make pictures, 101Many of the routes taken by Jones in his adventurous survey of the Pine Valley Mountains (April 12-15; April 28-May 2) are difficult to trace. The traverse of the exceedingly rough snow-covered terrace unmarked by trails doubtless accounts for die meager record. Furdiermore, the geographic terminology of Jones is out of accord widi present usage. Under die circum­stances it is worthy of note that in outline the topography as sketched by Jones is substantially that shown on more recent maps. (See note 105.) "•The small village of Washington was founded in 1855 in die "Dixie country," where a profitable cotton industry was expected to be developed. A factory built in 1866 provided cotton cloth. 120 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY Johnson to see his family. Took Roan and Gray Billy. Adair went to Rockville to buy corn. Alfred to Toquerville for the mail. Only 4 in camp. Some miners camped near who have been up on the Paria & say that the reported rich discoveries on that stream are not true. I do not believe that mineral in paying quantities exists in this country.103 Tried for observations for latitude and longitude but too cloudy. Alfred came with mail at night. J. Andrews [Andrus] camped with us on his way to St. George with stock. Friday, April 19th. Took observations for time and latitude. Wind very high. Moved my tent under the hill. Saturday, April 20th. Let my chronometer run down, so had to take observations for error and rate. Adair went to Wash­ington to buy flour. Could only get 100 lbs. We have plenty of ducks. Sunday, April 21st. Andy and Alfred spent the day in looking for Mormon. Am afraid he has been stolen. Took ob­servations for time and latitude. Thermometer 90° in the shade at 12 M. Got supper. Latitude of the [Berry] spring 37°-09'-40", longitude 113°-130'. Monday, April 22nd. Adair and Hattan went to Toquerville after some goods that the Major had procured in Salt Lake City and shipped down for distribution among the Sheviwits [Shivwits] and Pa-Utes. Clem got in from Kanab in afternoon bringing some mail. Andy met McEntee10* on his way to Salt Lake City. Tuesday, April 23rd. Started George Adair to Fort Pierce Spring via of Washington with the Indian goods. Thompson and self went down the Virgin River 5 miles or so, then turned into Washington. Stopped the team and sent Adair to tell the Indians to come to town and receive their things there. Washington is a town of about 500 inhabitants. Is laid out on 2 streets nearly north and south; has a great many shade and fruit trees, is watered by means of ditches from some small springs, has a fair looking school house, a woolen and cotton factory, both of stone, a co­operative store, and a number of good dwellings. They have a large cooperative field on the east side of the Virgin, and raise wheat, corn, barley, and cotton, with lucerne, a kind of a clover, for hay. In town are raised grapes, peaches, apricots and a few figs. Much wine is made, and much drank. The Indians began to come in the afternoon. Twenty or more slept near the wagon. Wednesday, April 24th. Indians began coming in early. There were the Sheviwits, to whom this distribution was made, ""Extensive prospecting and small scale mining operations have shown that the ore deposits of southern Utah have small commercial value. A remark­able exception was Silver Reef in the Harrisburg mining district, a few miles from Jones's camp at Berry Springs. Here silver ore valued at about $7,000,000 was obtained during the period 1877-1893. 1MSee Mr. Kelly's note, p. 372. JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 121 also most of the Santa Clara, and some of the Kaivav band to see. The Sheviwits were arranged in a circle seated on the ground, each band with its chief, of whom there were 3. We had for an interpreter a young man of the Santa Clara band, called George. After getting the names of the men, together with the number of the squaws and papooses belonging to the band, the distribu­tion began. The presents were blankets, shirts, cotton cloth, drill, a few pieces of blue flannel, butcher knives, and some hoes, axes and shovels. About 11 A.M. the natives became very hungry and we gave them some flour and meat, and waited until they had eaten, when the young men gave us a dance, then we finished the distribution. Old Moqueop, an old Sheviwit, made a speech telling them that they must be good "wano" Indians or the Americans would make them no more presents. Then Pa-Ute Frank talked awhile and the conference closed. He (Frank) is a good speaker, is a young man and is trying to become chief of all the tribes in southern Utah. There were present [ ] men of the Sheviwits. There are in the tribe [ ] squaws, and [ ] children making a total of [ ]. Counted while they were at dinner 106 Indians, mostly men; but few women or children present. Think government can be induced to establish an agency for them. Went 5 miles farther southwest of St. George, the county seat of Washington county, the most southwestern town settled by the Mormons, and the most important in southern Utah. Staid at the Mansion House. Thursday, April 25th. Staid in St. George until afternoon, then back to camp at Berry's Spring. St. George is a town of about 3000 inhabitants. Is built on some small streams that have their source in springs near. Contains one cooperative store, one individual store, 2 harness, and one tin and one shoe shop. Has a fine tabernacle of red stone 65 by 100 feet nearly completed. A good stone court house that would be a credit to any town of its size. The foundations of a Temple are laid. The Mormons design making this their headquarters for Southern Utah. Here lives E. J. [Erastus] Snow, President of the southern conference, a fine looking middle-aged man, the husband of 4 wives. There is but little farming land, but the valley is a splendid place for fruit, and peaches, figs, strawberries, grapes and apricots do well. Friday, April 26th. I went to Toquerville and back. Johnson came in to camp. The boys got things ready to start in the morning, when we will divide into 4 parties, go different ways and meet at Pipe Spring, or Kanab in 8 or 10 days. Stock very poor. But little feed in this country. Saturday, April 27th, 1872. Thompson and wife, Fred, Clem and Adair took 3 pack horses and started to go down the Grand Wash south of St. George as far as Sharp Mountain [Mount Bangs ?] to erect monument "J" and sketch the country. 122 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY Fennemore and Jack took one pack horse and started up the Virgin River to take pictures, are to be at Pipe Spring in 8 days. Dodds, Andy and Alfred took 5 horses and the wagon to Pipe Spring from where D & H go to the mouth of the Paria and back. Johnson and self with one pack went to Washington with the party going south, turned to the northwest, stopped at a small spring 2 miles out for supper then climbed the black volcanic hills and camped. Rode Bay Billy. But little grass. Night quite cold. Made about 15 miles. Sunday, April 28th. Started at 9 A.M. Soon began raining and snowing with alternate sunshine and so continued all day. Followed one trail after another until 2:30 P.M., when we found some water in a canon and camped until the storm should be over. All day over Basaltic rocks in high ridges and deep canons. Camped about 3 miles from the [Pine Valley] mountain, but as it could not be climbed from the south we had to get to the west and where there was said to be a saw mill and a road up the mountain. Night quite cold. Made about 15 miles, but only about 8 miles in a straight line. Monday, April 29th. Started at 8:50 A.M. Left all trails and struck across the hills and canons to the west 4 or 5 miles, finding a rough road. Struck the road from St. George about noon, and followed it to the northeast until 3 P.M., when we found a small saw-mill on a little stream. Near it stood a log house minus doors and windows. Found a lady about as intelligent as the average in this country, who could tell us nothing about the way on to the mountain, so we camped near to wait the return of her husband who was engaged in felling trees on the mountain side. The whole top covered with snow, which reached far down the side. Night cold. Tuesday, April 30th. Broke camp about 8:30 A.M., and fol­lowed a road, that Blake, the owner of the mill, had made up the mountain about 3500 feet. About half-way up was a small plateau of perhaps an acre, covered with luxuriant grass, and thickly studded with mountain Mahogany. Rocks in huge boul­ders, evidently metamorphosed, and probably granite, with con­siderable Mica, were strewn around, or piled in huge masses. From here the ascent was very steep, and road rough until we reached the first bench of the mountain, going up near 1800 feet in a mile. Here the snow was too deep to take the horses farther, so selecting a clear spot under a large pine, we unpacked, turned the animals down the mountain to find grass, made some coffee, and prepared for a climb. This was as high as the road went. Blake cuts timber here in the summer hauling it down the west side of the mountain about Y or a m' l e ' t ^ a sends it down to near his mill by means of a slide or shoot, about as much farther. On all sides of us rose high peaks, the highest to the right or east. JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 123 Up this we started, soon striking snow and travelling 3 hours in the same. On an average about 4 feet deep, but in the canons from 15 to 50 feet deep. Found the mountain to be composed of peaks, or ridges, running from south to north, highest at south, separated by deep narrow canons. Climbed 3 of these ridges before reaching the highest. From that the mountain grew lower to the east, finally ending in the Triassic cliffs. The south side is very steep, presenting in many places perpendicular walls. The canons run­ning north seemed to be intercepted by a similar wall not so high, from which rise dike ranges of ridges or peaks. Beyond these to the north are lower mountains and beyond these lies Pine Valley. To the west the peaks grow lower, and west of the mountain is the small valley where Blake lives, looking like an emerald. Established Geodetic point "L" and returned to camp at dark, having climbed 2000 feet, most of the way in snow quite soft. Wind blew very hard, and night cold.105 Wednesday, May 1st, 1872. Started up the mountain early to do the necessary work. The snow frozen hard, and we made a quick climb. Reached our point about 9 A.M. Johnson climbed a tree to sketch. I planted the "Gradienter" in a snow bank, and both worked steadily until near 2 P.M. Looking east, nearly, we could trace the Virgin River to its source at the head of Long Valley. Could see Virgin City and Toquerville. Following down stream saw Harrisburg, Washington, and St. George. Farther to the right could see a part of the Santa Clara River and a small valley called Diamond.10" To the west a rough, broken country as in all others, the view closing in all directions except south with snow-covered mountains. Snow quite soft going down and we often sank waist deep, sometimes deeper. Started down after the horses. Found them near Blake's, led them up to camp, packed up and went down to the Mahogany Plateau. Found a little water and a little snow. The first good grass for a month. ""During the period April 12-15 Jones had mapped the western flank of die Pine Valley Mountains. Continuing the survey (April 28-May 2) he gave attention to its top and its southern and eastern margins (see note 101). """Diamond Valley" is a common corruption of Dameron Valley. Mrs. Juanita Brooks of St. George writes the Society: Mr. M. E. Moody, Sr„ tells me that his uncle, Joseph Damron, herded sheep in that area during the early days, and that the valley was named for him. Mr. Moody gives the spelling as Damron, and says that he does not know that his uncle had any legal claim tiiere. In James G. Bleak, Annals of die Soutiiern Utah Mission, MS., Vol. 1, I find in the minutes of the County Court held on the 7th of March, 1859, an item of business which reads, "A herd ground, 8 miles square, was granted to Robert D. Covington in Dameron Valley, said Grant not to conflict or interfere with the grazing of any other settlement or previous rights." So it would seem tiiat the name dated back before diat time, and the spelling of the name for the records seems to have been established as "Dameron," from which it has been variously called "Damon" and "Diamond.