Utah Historical Quarterly Volume XVI - XVII

Journal of Stephen Vandier Jones, edited by Dr. Herbert E. Gregory - 1

JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES April 21, 1871-December 14, 1872 Edited by Herbert E. Gregory Friday, April 21st, 1871. Major Powell, wife, and W. C. Powell, F. S. Dellenbaugh, [Frank] C. A. Richardson, leave Chicago this morning for the west via Omaha. Monday, April 24th. Left Normal, 111. at 3 P.M. on C. & St. Louis R.R. From Normal to St. Louis; our party are A. H. Thomp­son & wife, Francis M. Bishop, John F. Steward, Andrew J. Hattan, and myself. With us are Rev. Joseph Powell, and Rev. Jesse Smith, going to Denver, Colorado, W. B. Powell going to Topeka, Kansas. E. O. Beaman met us at Brighton. In St. Louis at 10:30 P.M. Find quarters at the Planters, and Everett.1 Tuesday, 25th. Left St. Louis at 5 P.M. for Kansas City on North Missouri R. R. Crossed Missouri River at St. Charles on Steam ferry at 5:30. Company building iron bridge just above ferry. River near % miles wide. Running along river until dark. Country much broken, and buildings generally poor, many of logs with stick chimneys. Towns usually have that tumble down ap­pearance peculiar to the south. For farming Crow Creek pre-fered. Hatton [sic] pointed out the scene of a fight in which he took part in 1862 opposite Liberty Landing. Distance from St. Louis 272 miles. Wednesday, 26th. Arrived at Kansas City at 6:40 A.M. Several heavy showers of rain and hail during day. The city is built on and among the hills. Is a fine growing town. Has many good brick blocks. Business men mostly from the east. Streets are very narrow. Has about 32,000 inhabitants. North and separated by the Kansas River is Wyandotte. Has about 3000. Missouri River flows S.S.E., Kaw East. Left on Kansas Pacific R. R. at 10:45 P.M. Cross Kaw River. Bid goodbye to Missouri and enter Kansas. Too dark to see, so settle down to sleep. This road is quite smooth, and cars good. bearing the date April 24, 1871, an unnumbered page accompanying the Jones diary reads as follows: Colorado River Exploring Expedition. Organized in Illinois for die purpose of exploring and surveying die Green and Colorado Rivers, by act of Congress, $24,000.00 Appropriation. MaJ. J. W. Powell, Bloomington, Illinois, Geologist; John F. Steward, Piano, Illinois, Ass't. Geologist; A. H. Thompson, Normal, 111., Astronomer and Topographer; F. M. Bishop, Bloomington, 111., Ass't.; S. V. Jones, Wash­burn; 111., Ass't.; E. O. Beaman, New York, Photographer; W. C. Powell, Naperville, 111.. Ass't.; Fred S. Dellenbaugh, Buffalo, N. Y., Artist; Frank Richardson, Chicago, 111., Ass't. in Barometry; A. J. Hattan, Belle Plain, 111., Cook; John K. Hillers. San Francisco, California, General Ass't. 20 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY Thursday, 27th. Daylight finds us near Ogden [Riley County] 130 miles from Kansas City following the Smoky Hill River. River on left, and river bluffs on right or north. Soon pass Fort Riley where Uncle Sam keeps a detachment of boys in blue. The bluffs are full of limestone, which is seen cropping out. Country fast settling. The great lack is timber. See many stone houses, and miles of stone fences. Our first view of the Antelope was about 8 A.M., when 4 jumped up on our right not far away, and galloped swiftly to the north. Breakfast at Salina. Cross Republican and Solomon rivers, branches of Smoky Hill. Near the town of Solomon are salt works, the water coming from wells and being boiled. Just west of Ft. Harker, 218 miles from St. - City, the cry of "there they go," called the attention of all to the north side of the track where sure enough 2 Buffalo startled by the noise of the train, were galloping off, their seemingly unwieldy bodies rising and falling not unlike the swell of the waves. Soon after we came into a town of the Marmots, or Prairie dog. Many shots were wasted at them as also the Bison and Antelope. The Buffalo are travel­ling north. Many in sight but none near enough to be reached. The carcasses of thousands lie on either side of the road. Near Wallace, 457 miles west of K.-City, the forms of some mounted figures in pursuit of Bison could be seen. Learned at the station that 400 Sioux were camped in that vicinity hunting. Darkness closed round us near here, and a second night was spent on the train. Friday, 28th. Daybreak near Box Elder 610 miles from K.-City. My eyes were turned S. E. for a view of Pike's Peak, and very soon the snow-capped summit came in sight. The distance from us to the mountain was variously estimated from 10 to 40 miles. Its actual distance about 175 miles S. WE. [in Jones's manuscript "W" and "E" are combined]. To the north at about 85 miles Long's Peak towered above the neighbor­ing hills. Last night was cold, and this morning shows snow in patches all around us. At Denver 639 miles west of K.-City at 7 A.M., where we met Major Powell. Breakfast at the Ford House. Among other dishes new to most of us were Elk steak and Buffalo ham. At 8:20 we took the train for Cheyenne 106 miles north. Follow Platte River 8 or 10 miles, then cross. Here the stream is about 10 rods wide, and very swift. Fifty-two miles from Denver brings us to Greeley, the finest town yet seen west of the Missouri. Reach Cheyenne at 1 P.M., where we met the rest of the party. Leave on the U. P. R. R. at 1:30 P. M. Through the P. M. we are constantly ascending, and at 3:30 P.M. we reach Sherman, 8200 feet above the level of the sea, and the highest point reached by rail on the Continent. At Laramie stop JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 21 for supper, and I improved the time in running around collecting items. Find a Baptist Seminary of 40 pupils and a public school of about 100. Saturday, 29th. After another night on the cars, soon after daylight we reached Sweetwater [ ] miles from Laramie. Run­ning among immense rocks, ground covered with Alkali; the only vegetation in sight is sage grass and grease weed. Reached Green River City at 7 A.M. Breakfast at Fields, a good square meal for 50c. Launched the boats at the R. R. bridge, dropped down about y2 mile & landed on east side in a little cove. Find the boats, the "Canonita," the "Nellie Powell," the "Emma Dean," much better than was expected; do not leak a drop. After landing the boats went to dinner. Occupy a small board building belong­ing to Fields. After dinner some commenced unpacking things, others painting boats. From Cheyenne to Green River 330 miles. Sunday, April 30th. It is said that Sunday has never crossed the Missouri River, and it is sure that it is not here today. Will be obliged to work every day. Spent the day in seeing to the painting of the boats, and fix my things. Men painting, unpack­ing goods, and preparing them for the trip. Those that are to meet us at Grand Canon for next winter, are to be sent to Salt Lake. Steward & Richardson collected Geological specimens. Dellenbaugh made sketches. Monday, May 1st. Got permission to occupy an adobe house, and Beaman, Photographer, took possession and unpacked his instruments. Some of the men painted on boats, some pre­pared goods. Thompson and self determined height of cliff north of R. R. track called Fish Butte; find it to be 415 feet from our level. We are about 5000 feet above the sea level. After this took time observation of Sun. At night tried to get Lunar observation but froze out. Slept cold. Tuesday, May 2nd. Last night was the coldest I ever ex­perienced in May, but when sun arose air grew warm, and the day was beautiful. Bishop and Steward finished painting boats. Dellenbaugh sketched. Beaman and Powell photographed some views. Thompson and self took time observation. This morn­ing Major Powell started for Fort Bridger, is to return to R. R. tonight. In evening most of us went to the residence of Mr. [S. I.] Field, in visiting and singing. Find more refinement than was expected in this wilderness. Mrs. Field is a perfect lady and with her sister-in-law, Mrs. Wire & niece, Miss Wire, form a fine family. Wednesday, 3rd. Mrs. Powell and [Mrs.] Thompson left on 7 A.M. train for Salt Lake where they will remain until fall, then meet us at Grand Canon. Thompson, Bishop, and self took time observation, at 10 A.M. and 2 P.M., and Lunar at 9 P.M. 22 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY Truthful James (Steward) collected specimens. Sandy (Dellen­baugh), made sketches. Little Breeches (Richardson), tried to climb bluff to take observation with Barometer, but failed. The boys have named nearly every one by some nick name.8 Have moved camp into the willows near wood; go there to eat, and Hattan (General) has slept there 2 nights, but came to the house tonight. Thursday, 4th. Took observation in A.M. and P.M. Bishop 6 Steward painted boats. Beaman took 2 pictures of Fields and 2 of the boats. Fixed up things and shipped to Salt Lake for company. Sent valise with suit of clothes in care of Mrs. Thompson. This town is composed of about a dozen houses occupied and half as many unoccupied. Some are built of boards, some of adobes, some of board covered with canvas, and a few, belonging to the R. R. company, of frame. There is a good Depot about 40 x 20 feet, and eating house, & water tank. Green River flows from N. W. to S. E. On both sides are sandstone bluffs. The R. R. runs here nearly east and west through the valley and the town is on the south side of the R. R. and north of the river. One store kept by S. I. Field, a New York man, who with his wife, sister-in-law, and niece, Mrs. & Miss Wire, form a fine family. Have a Melodeon and plenty of sheet music. Is a fine place to spend an evening. Friday, May 5th. Men collecting specimens, sketching, painting boats &c. Bishop gave me lesson on Topography. Noth­ing of importance. Saturday, May 6th. Showers nearly all day so did not get any observation. Boys collecting specimens. Sunday, May 7thu Took observation in the morning, but was prevented from finishing by clouds & rain in afternoon. Men resting and writing letters. Thompson, Steward & self took walk to the north, the first time I have left camp since our ar­rival. River commenced rising. Monday, May 8th. Mr. Thompson left for Salt Lake on the 7 A.M. train. Bishop & self took time observation. Put rations into rubber sacks. Quite heavy rain about 5 P.M. We have erected a small tent in rear of house for Lunar observations; this with our flag attracts the attention of passengers on the trains. We sometimes get cheers, and frequently waving of handker­chiefs. The members of the 1871-72 expedition, with their nicknames, were: E. O. Beaman (no known nickname); Francis Marion Bishop ("Cap" and "Bish"); Frederick S. Dellenbaugh ("Fred," "Rusty," and "Sandy"); A. J. Hattan ("Andy"' and "General"); John K. Hillers ("Jack" and "Bismark")- S. V. Jones ("Deacon"); J. W. Powell ("Major"); W. C. Powell ("Clem")- Frank Richardson ("Frank" and "Little Breeches"); John F. Steward ("Ford" "Sergeant," and "Truthful James"); and A. H. Thompson ("Prof."). JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 23 Tuesday, May 9th, 1871. We slept very late this morning, and cook and [had] breakfast ready so long that it was cold. Beaman taking views. Steward finishing his Geological sec­tions. Bishop & self took time observation. Dellenbaugh fin­ished up some of his sketches. Richardson took ride on the engine, and Hatton cooked us 2 splendid meals. We are living high. Elk steak, warm biscuit, apple sauce, potatoes, and splen­did tea & coffee. River rose about 3 inches in the last 24 hours. Wednesday, May 10th. Cap Bishop commenced painting sign for Field. Steward made Geological Sections. Richardson to [took] Barometrical observations on top of a cliff. Beaman took some views. Bishop and self tried for time observation but were nearly prevented by clouds. Slight showers in after­noon. B. marked coincidences in time with Prof. Thompson in Salt Lake between 7 and 9 P.M. Thursday, May 11th. Nothing of importance being done. Too cloudy for an observation. River rose 4 inches. Friday, May 12th. Time observation. Not much being done. Saturday, May 13th. Time observation. Fixed clothing. River slowly rising. Letter from Thompson. Sunday, May 14th. After taking an observation attended the first Sunday School ever held in Green River City. Ten children present. Took walk of about 4 miles out with Steward and C. Powell. Climbed one of the highest hills in this range. Monday, May 15th, 1871. Tried for an observation but failed on account of clouds in afternoon. Fixed pants. Powell 6 Thompson returned from Salt Lake and with them came John Hillerfs], as general assistant. Tuesday, May 16th. In the morning Beaman took pictures of the boats & crews. Crews then assigned viz., "Canonita" in charge of E. O. Beaman. Rowers W. C. Powell in bow, A. J. Hattan astern. To go last, "Nellie Powell," commanded by A. H. Thompson. F. M. Bishop in bow, J. F. Steward at stern oar, Frank A. Richardson, extra. To go in center, "Emma Dean," under my control. Fred Dellenbaugh in bow, John Hillers with stern oars, J. W. Powell, as commander-to go in advance. Then all took a row in river. The "Nellie" went above the R. R. bridge, by the boys wading and towing, then came down through the rapids. The "Canonita" went down stream and was brought back by Thompson, Hiller & myself. The "Emma" went across all right, then was pulled up a ways, but missed the landing coming down, went to the lower end of Camp Island and was worked up to place through an arm of the river. Wednesday, May 17th. Helped Thompson take an observa­tion for time, and one for Latitude. Some of the men worked on the boats. 24 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY Thursday, May 18th. Bishop, Hiller & self worked on the boats. Steward worked on Geology. Do not know what the rest did. Friday, May 19th. Bishop, Hiller, Steward and self finished the boats, think they are now water-tight. Mrs. Field and the Misses Weir [Wire] honored camp with their presence to tea. Weather fair, sun shone all day. Saturday, May 20th. Packed rations and loaded them into the boats. Surveyed line for Field. Sunday, May 21st. Finished packing and loading boats. Took Topography of Green River & valley. Have done the hardest day's work since the starting of the expedition. We are now ready for a start tomorrow morning.* Monday, May 22nd. After breakfast furnished by Mr. Field, got ready for a start. At 10 A.M. gave 3 cheers which were answered by the entire population gathered on the shore, turned our bows down stream and the long journey was begun. Ran 2% miles when the "Emma" grounded on a bar-the "Nellie" just above and "Canonita" close below. All got into the water and pushed off. Dinner station left bank on a large island at 11 A.M. Wind blew a gale filling everything with sand. Started again at 1 P.M. and made camp No. 2 on right bank at 5 P.M. near a small log house belonging to a white man who keeps the ferry at the station. Boats float splendid. Have about 1500 lbs. each of load. Ran I0y2 miles. Opposite camp is a round hill to which we gave the name of Round Top. After supper spread our 8Major Powell's own journal entries for the first three days of his second voyage down die Green and Colorado rivers are quoted as being of special interest: May 22. Started from Green River Station at 10 A.M. Breakfasted with Mr. Fields. The good people of die town came out to see us start and gave three cheers as we left the bank. We ran down against a stiff breeze to noon camp running aground on a bar just be­fore stopping. After dinner we [?] in running around a bend to right die "N.P." and "Canonita" ran very hard on rocky wall carried by current. Camped at cabin. Found fossils, etc. Camp No. 2. 23. The rain on our faces waked us at daybreak tiiis morning and it continued to rain and snow until 10 A.M. Started after dinner against strong wind; passed cabin. I went in. Beaver heads and skele­tons scattered about. About 3 saw two men trappers on die right near cliff. Sent fossils in box to Mr. Fields. Camped in cottonwood grove. Bishop and Clement paced a distance % mile. Beaman took photos. Thompson measured two cliffs. Camp 3. 24. Started early. Stopped at 9 A.M. Beaman took photos. Bishop took topog. Steward and I climbed to foot of Needle; found fossils fishes. Creek comes in from "E." Had beautiful view of die Uintahs looking down the valley of the Green. The summits of these tower cliffs and needles at the general level of the country. Beaman took photo looking up valley of needles and towers from noon camp. (This photo not preserved.) Camped at mouth of Black's Fork No. 4. •0 0 0 CQ HI phed w O. Bea 3 a Oo n | re < Andi John tion, W -- TO H re ~ < n firs Hat lers, Ufa t camp tan, S. Major h Histo d Jr r^ -^ the S Jones swell, al Qu, econd , John and E irterly. Powell Stewa . O. Bi , 1939, 2.0 -W pedi W. an a . VI tion, C Pi re nc I, fro | r I 2 45 a- re OJ U o -•< n £ K R3 ?-* 01 H-. •71 f OO 0 ^ 2 « <">• g • W i!3*> r£ 8 S?a 2-oT3 m le rdso lecti < a -r re - -^ •O fTj O O -! -, TO -l ». g_ er r"*' n' *"* o ^ Bj : D ^ a- TO " i?> lmon Hi inbaugh, member e- * o >fl 3. TO • CP _ O S? B •a j» >a re -* w a. ° 0 JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 25 blankets and soon were asleep. Fred woke the camp in the night trying to choke me for an Indian.4 Tuesday, May 23rd. Woke at daylight with the rain falling on my face. All in camp turned out, rolled up blankets, and waited for breakfast which was ready at half past six. Moved into the cabin, built fire and were soon comfortable. Rain soon became mixed with snow and until 10 the morning was very disagreeable. Most of the men worked at restowing the things in the boats; went with Steward to steep bluff about half a mile in rear of camp, cliff near 600 feet high. Had dinner and pulled out at 1:15 P.M. Fine bank, and several large cottonwoods. Gibraltar on right bank 764 ft. Little Dick 725 ft. on left bank. Wednesday, May 24th. Slept cold last night. Sun rose clear and soon it was pleasant. Pulled out at 7:50 ran about 2 miles landed on left bank for Beaman to get view of Needle Cliff at 9. Smooth water. Thompson and self measured height of Needle & Boston Brown [Boston Loaf Butte]. Started at 10:45 ran until 11:45, landed on left bank under a cliff 200 ft. high. Started at 1:30 P.M. and before the "Emma" was fairly in the current ran aground in the shallows, and had to be pushed off. The other boats kept closer to shore and came through. Running through low hills, current about 2y2 miles per hour. Just before landing in afternoon saw 2 mule deer. Pulled in at 4:20 on left bank which was low and level. Opposite Black [Blacks Fork] a fork [which] flows in from west. Narrow, muddy, swift stream. Prof, and self took observation on stars for time and latitude. Got to bed at 11:30. Thursday, May 25th. Started at 8:25 A.M. Am feeling very unwell, but still steer the boat and take topographical notes. Ran 6% miles through still water, and mostly low round hills on both banks. Landed on left bank for dinner at 11:30 A.M. Started out at 2:25, ran most of the way through smooth water, currents averaging 2 ^ miles per hour. About 4:45 I saw a deer standing on the bushes on bank of an island on right. The Major tried a shot but missed; all the boats pulled in as quickly as possible and a hunt took place. We succeeded in getting 3, while one swam to right bank badly wounded but got away into the hills and one swam to left bank and got away unhurt. Thompson 'Jones bunked with Dellenbaugh, who confesses that on tiiis night he had not long been asleep before he saw "some men trying to steal our boats on which our lives depended and I immediately attacked them, pinning one to die ground. It was only Jones I was holding down, and his shouts and struggles to reach his pistol woke me, and startled the camp. He believed a real enemy was on him." 26 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY killed one. Steward one & Hattan one.1 Dropped down about Y mile, landed on left bank, dressed game, and all hands went to roasting and eating venison. Am taking medicine and conse­quently must look on while others eat. Slept in sight of the snow-clad Uintahs. Camped on a fine little prairie of about 20 acres, covered with luxuriant grass. Much alkali in soil. Made [16 miles?]. Friday, May 26th. Started at 7:15 in morning ran 4-1/16 miles through comparatively still water, and landed on right bank at 9:30 for the purpose of drying our venison and getting the Geology & Topography of the country. Just before landing saw a beaver swimming in the river and Major and self tried several shots without effect. Too sick to do anything so laid in shade. Major, Prof., Cap & Steward climbed upturned Ledge back of camp and Steward struck across the country to near last night's camp Geologizing. We spent the day here. Just before sunset when Thompson and myself were measuring the width of the river, our attention was attracted to a strange object coming down stream which soon proved to be Steward on a raft of his own building. Am feeling very unwell, but whenever the boat moves try to do my part; whenever possible lie on the aft hatch and let the boys run the boat. Have a very disagreeable camp on a sand bank, wind high, wood scarce and sand blowing over everything. Saturday, May 27th. The "Nellie" pulled out at 7:15 to run to Flaming Gorge in time for an observation. The "Emma" left at 9:10 A.M., ran about \Y miles; pulled in on right bank to allow of a visit to an upturned ledge. Very warm & high wind. The "Canonita" soon followed and passed us. We pulled off about 12 M, ran about 3 miles and made camp on left bank at 1 P.M. Water rough on account of wind blowing up stream. Camped just at head of Flaming Gorge, a pass through the rocks which are red sandstone, and look very much like a flame in the rays of the sun. The highest point of the gorge is about 600 ft., length Y of a mile. Right where we stopped was the camp of the expedi­tion of 1869; found the initials J. S. 1869" on a large cottonwood by the fire. Spent the day in working up position, collecting "The Powell party many times supplemented their rations by wild game: deer, beaver, grouse, mountain sheep, antelope, and geese. Clem Powell con­vincingly describes himself as one of the lucky hunters on this occasion, but Dellenbaugh and Steward agree with Jones in otherwise apportioning the credit. T h e initials "J.S." carved on trees and in rocks at several places along the Green and Colorado canyons doubtless refer to Jack Sumner, an energetic member of the Powell expedition of 1869. The original of Sumner's diary, one of die few books carried by the 1871 expedition, said by Robert B. Stanton (Colorado River Controversies, p. 169) to have been sent to Powell in Wash­ington, cannot now be found. An imperfect copy, however, covering the period July 6-August 31, 1869, survives and was published in vol. X V of this Quarterly. JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 27 geological specimens, 6c. Very high wind especially at night, which interrupted the taking of a Lunar observation. We are now in the country of the Uintah Utes. Mr. Thompson reports plenty of tracks among the hills, but no Indians to be seen. Got to bed about 11. Sunday, May 28th. After breakfast read a few verses, then climbed a cliff back of camp with Prof. From its summit a grand view was presented. Flaming Gorge can all be seen; the river looks like a ribbon of silver. Horse Shoe Canon can be traced; the Uintah Mountains with their snow-covered tops are in plain view to the South. Quien Hornet's white cap looms up to the northeast, while far up the river Boston Brown, passed on Wed­nesday. Just at our feet are some of the vertical cliffs caused by some great upheaval of the earth. From the northwest comes Henry's Fork of the Green, the most crooked stream I ever saw [which] empties into the main river about Y or a m ' ' e above camp. Went down to camp in 15 minutes, the hill being quite steep and very narrow. Helped take observations for Time, Latitude and Longitude and work with calculations. Powell and Steward crossed the river after specimens. Beaman took some views, and although we did not travel, the day seemed but little like Sunday. High wind all afternoon, and terrific at night. Helped Prof, get a Lunar observation at night. Monday, May 29th. Started at [8:00] from near head of Flam­ing Gorge, ran through that and just below ran into Horse Shoe Canon, where we ran the first rapid. The "Emma" went through bow-on all right, without shipping a drop of water; the "Nellie" followed in our wake and came through like a duck; the"Canonita" got too far to one side, struck the rapid amidships and some waves went in. Current about 6 miles for a short distance. This was our first experience, and the boys seemed to like it.' Stopped on left bank at [10:00] after a run of [3] miles. After dinner Beaman went up the river to take some pictures. Steward and Fred, Thompson, Bishop, and self crossed the river; followed some deer about 2 miles, without getting a shot, then turned, climbed the highest cliff of the canon to get the Topog­raphy of the country. The sun shone very bright while ascending, but shortly after reaching the summit the clouds covered the mountains, and the rain fell fast. After getting what was wanted and seeing the grandest view I ever looked on we descended, crossed to camp pulled out, ran [about 2] miles and landed on right bank at head of King Fisher Canon. Bishop & self climbed a hill but got no good view as the hills around us were higher than this. Slept on a sand bank in the rain. The red sandstone on the Thompson commented, "It was our first real rapid and was exciting." 28 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY right of Flaming Gorge leaves us and runs to the southwest. Although this scenery is grand, it is said not to compare with the grand canons of the Colorado. Landed at - P.M. Tuesday, May 30th. Did not move camp. Beaman took some pictures. Major went to the southeast over the moun­tains, got into camp about 1 P.M. Steward and Fred went back near Camp No. 7; gone until after dark. Prof., Bishop and self struck across the hills to King Fisher [Sheep?] Creek to the S.W.; followed it for about 3 miles, waded twice, found hunter's cabins, fresh beaver work and plenty of deer tracks, but got noth­ing. Took topography of creek to its mouth where it flows into the river through a gorge about 600 ft. high. Is a narrow, rapid, very crooked stream, and cold as snow. Got into camp about 1 P.M. After dinner spent the afternoon in fixing the boats, instruments, &c. Rain nearly all the afternoon. Slept comfort­ably although the night was very cold. We are getting things into shape so we can be quite comfortable. The "General" [Hattan] cooks us splendid meals and were it not for the sand that blows at every camp, had as soon eat his victuals as those found anywhere else. Wednesday, May 31st. Started at 8:25 A.M., ran about \y2 miles to the mouth of King Fisher Creek, landed on right bank for Beaman to get a view. Started a deer which was soon wounded, and away he went up the gorge of the creek through thick brush and briars. Bishop & Self got together, crossed creek, struck his trail soon started him, when he swam the stream and climbed the side of the mountain; after an hour's weary climb gave up and went back. Waded creek 6 times. Just below creek is Bee Hive Point at Lower end of canon, 600 ft. high. The river bends to the left, with a fall of about 5 ft. and current about 5% miles. Landed just below rapid opposite head of a beautiful island, while opposite was a cliff about 1000 ft. rose [sic]. Started at 2:30 ran another rapid and pulled up on low bank on right side at 3:15; camped in a beautiful cottonwood grove of small trees of [a] few rods from shore and near the head of Red Canon. Just above camp the gray sandstone ends and the red begins very abruptly. Horse Shoe Canon is about 2Y2 miles long. King Fisher about 3 miles. Rapid beginning at Bee Hive Point 3/16 mile. Soon after landing the boys rowed Steward across the river to hunt Geological specimens and just at land he fell into the water, which being the first mishap of the kind caused a big laugh. Assisted in taking an observation at night. One of the most beautiful nights that we were ever favored with; the moon shone in splendor, while the stars lent their gleam to add to the tranquil beauty of the scene. The boys feeling musically inclined brought JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 29 out a flute and raising their voices, woke echoes that but seldom have been roused to the sound of music.8 Thursday, June 1st, 1871. Did not break camp, but had a harder day than when running. Bishop, Stewart and Richardson crossed the river. Thompson and myself climbed the hills in rear of camp. After an hour and half found ourselves about 1500 ft. above the river while back of us rose hills 300 or 400 feet higher than this. Climbed again 3 or 4 miles to a high hill where we could get good observations. Found a fine plateau with grass and large pine trees. Saw a deer who soon ran out of range and Prof, shot a dusky grouse. Got into camp about 2 P.M. and soon Bish came with another grouse. Both made soup enough for supper. Another splendid night. From camp could be seen the river, the hills on the opposite shore, all bathed in the soft moonlight, while the songs and calls of night birds are borne on the air. In such an hour one forgets the perils ahead, and thinks only of the pleasant part of life. Friday, June 2nd. Broke camp at 7:15. Soon ran into Red Canon and found a rapid. All went through safe but shipped considerable water. Stopped, bailed out. Looked at another rapid and concluded to run it and pulled out. Soon struck big waves and went bounding through. The "Emma" being in ad­vance we saw where the river made a sudden turn to the left- a sunken rock. Pulled strong for the right, and signalled the other boats to follow. The "Nellie" was under such headway that she struck the wall on the right in an awful sea. Just then we struck waves 6 or 7 feet high with a current of about 15 miles, and our whole attention was required to manage our own boat. I saw the "Nellie" shoot under the rock, and caught sight of Prof., when in trying to run between 2 rocks, we struck on starboard taking off the stern row lock and down the stream we 'Powell's journal entry for this day evidences his flair for description: Ran down into Kingfisher Canon. Stopped in park at north of creek; wounded deer. Took views. As we enter die park we turn to left and looking back the way seems closed. Bold rocks of grey sand­stone tower on the right and on the left crags and rocky slopes with scattered cedars, pifions, and firs. A beautiful meadow valley witii clumps of alder. The Kingfisher comes in on die right dirough a narrow cation valley with steep walls; the valley itself filled widi alders and willows completely hiding the creek. Then die creek emerging from its own canon meanders across the little park, its banks fringed with wil­lows. The river flows at the foot of the cliff on the left and is hedged by a border of willows from die meadow on die right. Looking down river the walls seem almost to close where the river turns to the left around Beehive Point. And out through die canon you can see the green and wooded slopes of distant mountains and a single snow bank like a long white cloud dropped from the skies and caught by die mountain ridge. After taking pictures we rounded Beehive Point and camped at head of Red Canon. 30 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY drifted nearly at the mercy of the waves. After a hard struggle we made near land about y2 mile below, striking against a rock at the head of another rapid. All jumped into the water waist deep, and in a short time got our boat to land, half full of water. The "Canonita" came through all right but nearly full of water. They reported the crew of the "Nellie" all safe on the rock but the boat keel up against the wall. The rocks were so steep that we could not get back to them and we felt much anxiety for them. The "General" started up stream, swam to a little island, then to the main land, but could not reach them. We repaired damage on our own boat and stood ready to save all possible should the "Nellie" go to pieces. I am indebted to her crew for the particulars of the accident. In trying to avoid the rock the current caught them and drove the boat broadside against the cliffs on the right. She capsized just as Bishop jumped with the line. All hands made the rock safely, but lost 2 oars, one of which "Andy" picked up a short distance below; the other we found in an eddy at dinner station. A compass and camp kettle [were lost,] both of which went to the bottom. They soon righted and found a hole through the boat, on starboard, in stern standing room. Repaired damage, got out their extra oars and came down. We stood in the water to catch them and prevent their going over the rapid be­low." Soon started out down the rapids. Landed for dinner on right bank at 11 A.M. Pulled out at 2 P.M.; ran several rapids and pulled up near the head of a bad one, decided to pull across the stream. We went over all right, but barely saving ourselves. The "Nellie" came in like a shot. Cap threw me the line and sprang to help hold her in water neck deep. "Canonita" dropped in just below, the boys catching her. Unloaded the "Emma." I stood in the boat and the boys let us down about 20 rods. Loaded and let down about Y mile. Decided not to unload the other boats so we let them down, getting in with the last just [at] dark, and camped on the same spot that the party of 1869 occupied,10 having been 3 hours in making little more than a quarter of a mile. Wet all day. Built a roaring fire, dried clothing and went to bed to enjoy the best sleep of the trip so far. Ran miles. Saturday, June 3rd. Did not break camp. Bishop and self climbed a hill 1500 feet high in rear of camp. Back at 2 P.M., then did copying and mended clothing. Slept again-among the pines with the roar of the river rushing over the rocks sounding in our ears. Find by climbing the hills that their tops are the level of the country and that the river has cut its way down Thompson, Steward and Bishop, who widi Richardson manned the "Nellie," all wrote graphic descriptions of the near-calamity. wSee George Y. Bradley's journal for June 2, 1869, Utah Historical Quar­terly. 1947, vol. XV, pp. 33, 34. The 1871 expedition took two more days to make die same distance. JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 31 through them. Many of the hills are covered with grass and flowers, and quite well timbered. The hills are gradually disap­pearing and eventually the same power that formed them will dissolve them. How long this will be no one can tell, but must be millions of years. Sunday, June 4th. Broke camp at 8 A.M. Let down by line about 20 rods through a bad rapid. Pulled out from there, ran a small rapid, then another, then through still water a little way, and pulled to shore on right bank just above a large rock in the middle of the stream. Decided to run through right channel. Went through all right, and made a strong pull for left bank at head of another rapid. Just missed being carried over. Let down a short distance by line-then ran about a mile and made Camp No. 11-on left bank11 at 11:30 A.M. in a grove of pines. Steward made a Geological section. Bish and self got some points on Topography. Wonder if any of my friends are thinking of me this peaceful Sabbath day. Have thought of the difference between their situation and ours. They peacefully worshiping-we wet and tired, running through waves that look as though they would overwhelm us. But these troubles are forgotten in the cheerful blaze of the camp fires, while the time is spent in necessary work, or listening to the reading of some poem, of which we have several volumes. Just above camp we found a boat tied to a tree with oars still on, both nearly covered with sand; supposed to have been abandoned by a party of miners who started down the river 2 years ago and broke up near here, taking to the hills, after loosing [sic] one man by drown­ing. 12 [Word not legible] 2>Yi miles. Monday, June 5th. Break camp at 7:40-run something more than a mile through comparatively smooth water and stopped on right bank for Beaman to take some pictures; 2 little creeks come tumbling down from the mountains, water very cold. Named the first "Cactus," the other "Francis."" Started again at 2 P.M., and reached Ashley Falls at 3:10. Pulled all the things around over a bad trail among the rocks. Lifted the "Emma" out; carried her over the rocks to the foot of the fall, let her down into the water and brought her to land or rather rocks. Concluded to risk the "Canonita," fastened an extra line to the stern ring; all uRather, they encamped on an island, as Major Powell, Clem Powell, and Beaman all remark. "See Mr. Kelly's note on diis party, p. 268. "Powell writes: "Ran down over rapid river to point where two creeks come in and stopped for photos. Got good views on botii creeks. Francis Creek first; Cactus below-(Beaman has tiiese names reversed)." Apparently Jones had the names reversed also. The first is today called Trail Creek, the second Allen Creek. 32 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY hands stood by to let her down. When she struck the fall and the stern line was cast loose, she shot through like lightning, careened, filled, jerked the line through my hands, entangled in Fred's feet, and came near drawing him into the water. Cap fastened line around the rocks and brought her up. She got 2 hard knocks, and it was thought best not to risk the other boat, so she was lifted out, carried around, safely launched, and our boats floated below the fall. By this time night had come. So we took supper, went back above the fall, dug into the bank among the rocks, fixed our beds, built a fire and prepared to be comfortable. There were plenty of pine and Cedar limbs by the light of which this was written. For half a mile above the fall the river is quiet as if preparing for the leap. At the head it is divided into 2 streams by a rock of 50 or 60 tons weight that has fallen into the stream. The water on the right falls almost vertically about 4 feet, strikes against rocks, and again leaps 4 or 5 feet breaking into foam, throwing the spray to the height of several feet. The stream on the left falls about the same distance but is less broken over both precipices. The river is full of sunken rocks, and nearly precipitous cliffs rise on each side to near 400 feet, composed of Red Sandstone. The roar of the falls can be heard for nearly a mile above. The course of the river here is nearly east, and the rays of the setting sun formed a beautiful rainbow at the lower end of the rock in the middle of the stream. Our Photographer took several views of the river and falls too just at the time of making the portage. These falls although not so grand as many in our land, deserve much more full and better description than I am capable of giving. Have just returned to the fire and after getting a view by moonlight, made the remark that the sight was worth a journey across the continent. Why people have such an anxiety to visit the scenes of Italy, and wander among the ruins of pagan Rome in preference to seeing the sights of our own land is a wonder to me.11 Well I am tired and sleepy, so think best to lock the door, draw the curtains and seek repose. Good night. Ran 2-% miles. Camp No. 12. Tuesday, June 6th. An accurate measurement of the fall this morning shows it to [be] 8.10 feet. Loaded and pulled out. Ran about 2 miles and stopped at mouth of snow creek for pictures. Left the "Canonita" and ran ahead past Cliff [Cart] Creek on right, ran 3 rapids and landed on left bank for dinner at 11:30 A.M. Started again at 1:45 P.M. Ran through still water for half a mile, then rapids for 2)/£ miles which brought us into Red Canon Park where we camped on "This is a viewpoint now much in favor in Utah. JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 33 right bank at 4 P.M. under 2 large pine trees; unloaded the boats and examined the rations, found the meat spoiling in the rubber sacks, but some things all right. Made preparations for climbing the mountains next morning. Ashley [?] Creek comes in on right and Plateau [?] on left, both a short distance above camp. Ran 8 miles. Camp No. 13. Wednesday, June 7th, 1871. The Major, Thompson, Steward, Bishop and Clem, started for the highest mountain in sight on camp side of river. I crossed the stream & struck out up the mountain. After an hour's climb, found another peak, above, and so kept on until 5 miles were passed, when the highest peak within reach was climbed. To the north was a beautiful valley, on the opposite side of which was a range of hills with some snow. To the southwest the snow-covered Uintahs could be seen, from which a snow range stretched to the northwest to beyond Flaming Gorge. After getting all the points in sight started down to the southeast. After going down about half a mile, found the head of a little creek in a bunch of willows, fed from a bank of snow, and there I sat down on a snow bank, and ate my fill of pure delicious snow. Again started, the creek flowing through a beautiful plateau, and the bank lined with cottonwoods & willows. Soon a noble deer sprang up at which a shot was fired, wounding him in the neck. Followed him until I found that if the pursuit was carried further, night would overtake me among the hills minus a coat, so gave up the chase and started down again. The plateau spreads out for 2 miles treeless, and covered with luxuriant grass, over which the deer and elk roam almost unmolested. Followed the creek clear down to the river through the gorges and got into camp about 4 P.M., very tired and hungry, having eaten nothing since breakfast and traveled all day. In a short time the rest of the party came in and reported having climbed a mountain over 3000 feet high which was named Mount Selena in honor of Bishop's sweetheart. All so tired that very early camp was quiet. Thursday, June 8th. Started at 8 A.M., ran rapidly through fast water, ran through Red Canon to Brown's Park where we pulled up on left bank just above 3 covered wagons, the first signs of civilization for near 3 weeks. Messrs. Har[r]ell were camped here with a drove of 2200 cattle, which were driven from Texas last year, wintered here on grass and will soon start for California. Camped near them and worked all the rest of the day on maps, records, &c, to be sent to Salt Lake for safe keep­ing. The opportunity is also being improved in writing letters and around our camp-fire tonight the boys are busy with paper and pencil and I will close this and follow their example. Some 34 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY letters were received here, none for me but found a [Lacon, 111.] Journal of May 18th.16 Friday, June 9th. Spent morning in transcribing records, &c. In afternoon Steward and Clem went out for Geology. I went to the N. W., climbed Red Mountain and took bearings of several points, then went down the slope to Red Creek, then to camp which was reached a little before 9 P.M. Was very tired, had long walk, and hard climb. Ate my supper and went straight to bed. Richardson made arrangements today to leave us, and re­turn home. Assigned cause poor health. We have made ar­rangements with Harrell Brothers to carry our mail to Green River City, telegraph to Salt Lake for mail and meet us again at the Canon of Lodore. Saturday, June 10th. Spent the day in finishing maps, rec­ords, &c, writing letters and preparing things for an early start in morning. Took observations for latitude, longitude, and time. Saw the herders lasso and kill a beef. They catch their horses by surrounding them, throwing the lariat over the heads of those wanted. This is a beautiful valley. Luxuriant meadows stretch on either side of the river to the foothills, then gently roll­ing to the mountains from ^ of a mile to \Y miles. This is a splendid country. The grand mountains that lift into the skies their towering summits, many of them covered with eternal snow, the beautiful valleys, crystal brooks, grand plateaus, noble trees, huge rocks, and all the varied mountain scenery, make deep impressions on the minds of the thoughtful, and give one broad ideas of the wonderful world in which we live; remind us that nature's works are on a grander scale than the puny creations of man. As I have stood on the summit of some towering mountain and surveyed the scene spread before me, [I] have felt the utter impossibility of expressing the thoughts that would rise, and as these wonderful works of nature were in view have felt how great the power that formed them, how much above human com­prehension He who set in motion the wonderful machinery of the universe. No matter how long these hills may have been forming, no matter what the forces that caused these massive rocks to assume their present form, no matter how long it may have been since this whole country was covered with water, no difference if man cannot reconcile the Mosaic account of creation with the "Powell's journal entry for this day reads: Came down to Crist Hillman's cabin in Brown's Park where I camped twice before. Once when Emma was with me [in 1868]. After dinner Thompson and I went out among the rocks. Boys at work in camp on notes, maps, packing [word illegible] photos, etc. to be sent to Green River City. Camp No. 14. Next day, June 9, his last journal entry for this part of the voyage reads: "Still at Camp No. 14 preparing to send out our extras, finishing up work, etc." JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 35 Geological account, there is, there must be a power higher than nature, that controls her works and I try to look through nature up to nature's God. When I reflect too, that this is my own country, that it is indeed the land of the free, that no slave breathes within its broad expanse, that no tyrant bears rule within its limits, I feel proud to look around and say, "This is my own, my native land." The words, "I love thy rocks and hills, thy thousand bright and gushing rills," have to me a new, a wider, higher meaning than ever before. Sunday, June 11th. This morning Richardson bid us goodbye. Although he has not made himself very agreeable to most of the party, I felt sorry to see him leave, but it is undoubtedly best for him. He could hardly undergo the hardships that are before us. We watched him ride away, and I at least, felt that perhaps we were seeing the last of him. Broke camp at 8:5 [8:05?] ran through beautiful scenery and quiet water about 6 miles to Swallow Canon, which is about \Y miles long, and in which we stopped for dinner under the cliffs, then on into very quiet water, where the river spreads out very wide, and had a splendid run of 15 miles and camped at 2:50 P.M. on right bank on a broad plateau under some big cottonwoods, the finest camp yet found on the trip. The canon passed today is not bad. Met no adventure except just before landing; where the river is about Y miles wide the boats all got aground on a sand bar but were got off without much trouble. Made 15 miles. The days are getting warm, and the nights so that one can sleep without freezing. Monday, June 12th. This morning Beaman took a view of camp, then Thompson went on the mountains back of camp while Major, Steward and self crossed the river, and after a pleasant walk of an hour over fine meadows covered with cattle reached the foothills and began the ascent. First we found low hill composed of white post tertiary shale of recent formation, then red sandstone gradually rising into a broken mountain chain. The rocks all dipping a little west of north. Climbed until noon without reaching the summit, sat down to rest and eat dinner under a pifion pine, then climbed again. At last reached the highest point, rested a while, concluded to leave most of our things while we went west along the summit to the cation of Beaver Creek. About 2 P.M. stopped, made observations and about 4 P.M. started down very tired. At 5:30 reached a small stream coming from the snow, got the first fresh water since morn­ing, ate a lunch, and went ahead down the gulch. Reached camp at 8 P.M. Saw again this day the Uintah snow range, and was above some patches on the mountain where we were, but did not 36 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY reach any. Saw a deer, an antelope, and some grouse, but got no shots. The view was grand but not equal to some I have had, on account of the smoke that [over]hung mountain and valley. Heard the first thunder on the trip. Tuesday, June 13th. Broke camp at 8 A.M.1" and floated quietly down a broad, quiet river, studded with beautiful islands. The shores fringed with willows and cottonwood groves, a slow current, the bank stretching away into green meadows anon broken by low hills on either hand. The 3 boats were brought side by side, lashed together, and we dropped down with the current viewing the magnificent scenery holding pleasant converse, and listening to the reading of Scott's poem "The Lady of the Lake." Halted at 11:30 for dinner on left bank in a grove near some cabins." Started again at 1 P.M. The river growing narrower and deeper. Camped at 1:30 on left bank under some box elder trees, at the Iron Gate of Lodore. Here we found the first mos­quitoes, and from the way they bit, think it probable that they do not often have the privilege of a feast off white folks. The brush along the river bank seemed fairly alive with snakes. This and the mosquitoes induced us to climb the rocks about a hun­dred feet where we had a good night's rest. Some thunder and a little rain. Camp No. 16. Ran 1 2 ^ miles. Wednesday, June 14th. This morning Steward and Fred took 2 days' rations, a pair of blankets, their guns and canteens, and struck out on the back track. We will not break camp until mail comes. Spent the morning in taking & working observations, copying notes, maps, &c. In afternoon Major, Prof., Beaman & Clem, climbed the left pillar of the Gate of Lodore. Took Baro­metrical observations, time, 6 c , while they were gone. The canon at the head of which we are is 20 miles long, full of bad rapids. Took the party of 1869 (25) days to pass.18 Some 10 miles from the head the "No Name" was wrecked and lost. The water is rapidly rising, and we hope to go through easier and quicker than they did, and without losing any boat, but of course cannot tell. Again slept on the cliff. Thursday, June 15th. This morning Bishop started out to get the bearing of Vermilion Creek which comes in on the left about 3 miles above camp. The Major & myself providing our­selves with some biscuit 6 meat for rations, 2 canteens of water, one of coffee, one thermometer, one Aneroid, a field glass, a Cas- "The diarists must often have guessed at the time. Thus on diis day Clem Powell says tiiey started at 7, Thompson at 7:30 and Jones at 8 A.M. "Used, Thompson says, by the Harrell brothers during die winter just past. "Jones is in error here. It took from June 8 to June 28 for the 1869 party to traverse die river from the Gate of Lodore to the mouth of die Duchesne. They emerged from Split Mountain Canyon June 26, 1869, making 18 days spent in the canyons. JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 37 cello [compass], a sack of books, and a revolver & knife, crossed the river and started for Turtle Back Mountain [?] distant some 4 miles. Began climbing immediately after crossing the river, passed over a small mountain, into a beautiful little valley, struck an old Indian trail, which we followed some distance. Then struck to the west, and commenced the ascent in earnest. Found the hill composed of red sandstone in cliffs or benches with almost perpen­dicular ascents of from 5 to 20 feet, the benches covered with red earth in which grow cedars, pifion pine, a kind of dwarf tree for which we have no name, somewhat resembling the Hawthorn, and a little like the crab tree. These in places grow very thick and made hard climbing. Sometimes were compelled to creep among them, and the wild currant shrubs, vines & briers that grow in great profusion. There are also thousands of cacti with red and pale yellow flowers, mountain lillies, a species of blue-bell and many other flowers & shrubs unfamiliar to me. At 12 M. stopped on a bench of rock, ate dinner, rested awhile, then pushed on. From our dinner station the valley of Brown's Creek [Browns Park], presented a beautiful appearance; the river winding among the lovely groves, down to the entrance of the canon. The whole valley was once undoubtedly the bed for a lake, before the water forced its way through the mountain, and the soil was formed underneath its wave. How many thousands of years ago this was cannot be told but must have been many more than the generally received opinion of the age of the world. To resume: About 2 o'clock we reached a point where some observations could be made, then travelled around among the trees, and finally climbed a dead pine, from which we could see a beautiful valley to the southwest, the cliffs of Bear [Yampa] River southeast, the canon of the Green, the gap through which the Vermilion comes to the N.E., while old Quien Hornet lifts its rugged head many miles away to the north. From our observations this is the highest mountain yet climbed on the trip. If this is so I have been higher than any other member of our party. At 4:20 P.M. took the last drink of water from our canteens, which had been carried since morning, and started down. From the indications it is evident that the mountain was very recently covered with snow from which little streams flowed down the sides, but now we searched in vain for a bank of snow, or a drop of water. Reached the river at 6:45 and once more had the luxury of a good drink. Found the boys all in camp and Steward & Fred gave an account of their trip. After eating their dinner the day of leaving camp concluded to cache their things and work until nearly night, then return and camp at the river. Soon used up the water with them, got very thirsty, and started down. Missed their cache, reached the river at 6 P.M., but were obliged to sleep without supper. Did not find their things until 10 A.M. today, having been about 22 hours 38 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY without eating. This to Fred was a new experience, he never having until this trip either eaten or slept out doors. Steward, having been a soldier, was more accustomed to the vicissitudes of camp life, but this will be an event that both will remember. Friday, June 16th. This morning we pulled the boats across the stream for the purpose of allowing them to show in the picture Beaman wished to take of the gate of the canon. Now at 11 A.M. 1 am seated on a cliff about 100 feet above the left bank of the river, under the shade of a dwarf cedar and one of our tent covers, looking down the stream for some % of a mile, whose waters are as still and placid as the bosom of an unruffled lake, but anon there comes the murmur of the waters of the first rapid, borne on the breeze. The river here has cut its way through a mountain, the perpendicular sides of which rise on either hand forming the immense pillars of which [what] is not inappropriately called the "Iron Gate of Lodore." The walls of crimson sandstone about 2000 feet high now tinged by the straggling beams of the sun, while at the base and up the sides wherever footing can be found, box elder, dwarf cedar, wild roses & willows maintain a slender foothold. "Abandon all hope ye who enter here," were the words of an Omaha editor in 1869, but we are hopeful still. Saturday, June 17th. After waiting until noon, our messen­ger came but brought no mail, all having been sent to Uintah from Salt Lake, so gave up all thought of hearing from friends for another month. Availed ourselves of the opportunity of sending letters out by these men who will reach Green River Station in 2 or 3 weeks. Broke camp at 3:30 P.M. and entered the dreaded Canon of Lodore. From some cause I do not feel that fear [that] was anticipated. It seems to me that all will be well. Ran about half a mile, struck a rapid, then another. Just below this left the "Canonita" for Beaman to take a picture. Shortly after landed at the head of another rapid, but concluded to run it. Left the "Nellie" to wait for the other boat, and the "Emma" went ahead, through this and another, and pulled up at the head of a bad rapid, to wait for the other boats. They did not get in until so late that we decided to make Camp No. 17 on right bank under the cliff among some willows and take the rapid the first thing in the morning. Abrupt cliffs of crimson sandstone 2000 feet high on each side. Ran 1% miles. Slept with the roar of 2 rapids sounding in our ears. The canon is so deep that but few of the stars can be seen. Sunday, June 18th. Just below camp is [sic] a beautiful grotto was found, extending back several hundred feet, the walls nearly meeting above, the interior hollowed out and opening at the rear by a succession of immense steps to the top of the cliff, while a tiny streamlet of the purest water trickled down through JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 39 the rocks, whose moist sides were covered with pendulous moss, from which the water dripped in little streams. Huge masses of rock have fallen from the roof and sides in places nearly obstruct­ing the passage. While sitting in this lovely place the sun first showed his face over the opposite cliff, and looking at the time found it was 8 A.M. Beaman took 4 views inside the place, which Steward, the discoverer, named "Winnie's Grotto." Broke camp at 10:30 A.M., and immediately ran a bad rapid, then through smooth water about % of a mile, then a succession of rapids until 12 M., when we stopped for dinner on right bank. Pulled out again at 2:15 P.M., and ran through a number of rapids but none very bad until 4 P.M., when we camped on left bank on the same spot as the party of 2 years ago, at the head of Disaster Falls, a foaming, raging mass of water that pours through a narrow pass, without a foot of still water. Just above camp the river sinks straight down about a foot, then pours among rocks, on both sides of a small island where there is scarce a handful of earth, nothing but stone. Here the "No Name" of the first expedition [Powell, 1869] went to pieces and her crew floated some 20 rods, all much exhausted, and Goodwin [Frank Goodman] nearly drowned. We left the "Canonita" a short distance above for Beaman to get some views, and when they came down, got too far out and for a few moments it seemed that they must go over, but at last came in safe. These were moments of great anxiety. All stood ready to plunge in, for if the boat had touched the fall it would inevitably have been dashed to pieces among the rocks." Wet, tired and hungry, I thought how little like Sunday this seemed. How differently has this day been spent by friends at home. Well, sometime we may sometime again be in civilization. Who knows? 534 miles. Monday, June 19th. Made a portage of about Y or a mile, letting the boat down by lines, through a sea of foaming waves; Steward and self standing in them with oars to prevent their being dashed to pieces against the rocks. Loaded, let down a short distance by lines, then a long portage, carrying the cargoes about half a mile over a rocky point with the thermometer at 90°. Before this was done the "General" called to dinner, which he had pre­pared on a point about half a mile from last night's camp, where we found a sack of flour left 2 years ago, from which he made biscuits, finding it but little injured. Here we found an oar on the rocks and another in the driftwood at the water's edge. After dinner went to work again, got the loads over and the "Emma" down to camp on a sandy beach. Steward had a bad fall in cross­ing down in the boat. As we ran over a rock she careened, pitch­ing him over the side with his head under water, but we soon MSee Mr. Kelly's note on Disaster Falls, p. 273. 40 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY righted and went ahead. The "Nellie" and "Canonita" were left above, all being too tired to attempt their passage. Made about a mile and again slept within sound of rapids. Camp and dinner station left bank. The river falls here 50 feet in half a mile. Tuesday, June 20th. Brought down the 2 boats loaded and let down with lines about Y m^e>tnen dinner, on left bank. Started at 2:30 P.M., ran 1% miles almost all the way through rapids and made Camp No. 20 on right bank at 4 P.M. The banks of red sandstone 2500 ft. high, nearly vertical, on each side. Dip of the rocks southwest. Belong to the Devonian age. Slight thunder shower at noon camp. Wednesday, June 21st. Broke camp 7:45 A.M., and let down a short distance with lines, which took all morning. Beaman took a number of views, as also at Disaster Falls. I received an injury in bringing the "Emma" around which nearly disabled me, but still kept at work. Started at 1 P.M., ran about Y m^ e ' t n e n ^et down with lines through 2 bad rapids which together are about % of a mile, where I had another fall. Fred left his sketch book and Bishop his compass at the head of the first portage and had to climb the rocks after them. Started out again and ran rapids to the head of Triplet Falls, and camped on left bank among some box elders with the cliffs on each side about 2000 feet. Ran 2J^ miles. Shipped more water today than ever before. Thursday, June 22nd. This morning the Major, Prof. 6 Bishop started to climb out for observations hourly. Slight rain near noon. Beaman took views and Fred finished sketches. We are about half way through this canon. The mountain party returned about 6 P.M. very tired, having climbed over 2500 feet above the river. Marked the cliffs on which they were-Dunn Cliff in honor of Wm. Dunn, one of the former party who started through the mountains and was killed by Indians.20 Toward night the sky became overcast with dark nimbus clouds; the thunder echoed and rolled among the mountain peaks and just at supper-time, for a few minutes, we had an old fashioned rain, the most water fell that has since we reached the Rocky Mountains, but still not near as much as frequently comes down in ten minutes in Illinois. One rock just above camp deserves particular notice. It rises with a gradual slope from the northeast to the height of 20 feet then as gradually slopes to the southwest. The side next the river is perpendicular, showing that it has been cut by the river, while the opposite is sloping, the whole being one solid mass un­broken by seam or scar. Estimate the weight to be 20 or 30 tons. ""William Dunn, O. G. Howland, and Seneca Howland, members of die first Powell expedition, who left the boat party near the mouth of die Grand Canyon on August 28, 1869, were killed a few days later by die Shivwit Indians on the Shivwit Plateau. JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 41 Some of the boys saw on last Sunday21 11 mountain sheep, but they quickly scaled the cliff where no man might follow. These are all the game yet seen in this canon. Probably but little, if any other ever visited, and it is quite probable that its silence has not been broken by human voice, or its soil been pressed by human footsteps since the passage of the party of 1869. We have been picking up pieces of the wrecked boat and things abandoned by the party ever since leaving Disaster Falls. Yester­day a small vise, and a number of Putnam's Monthly. Today an old ration sack, and a board from the bulk-head of the wreck. Friday, June 23rd. Broke camp at 8 A.M., dropped down a few rods to the head of Triplet Falls then made 2 portages, ran about half a mile to the head of the worst place yet seen." The water boils and roars and foams, and there is scarce a foot of quiet river for a long distance. The boys named this "Hell's Half Mile." Made 2 portages with the "Emma" and got her and most of the cargo to the foot of the fall. Did not try the others. Made Camp No. 22 at head of the fall on left bank. Was very tired and slept sound. In letting down the "Emma" she capsized and went over the worst place keel up, but received no damage. Run \Y miles. Saturday, June 24th. Started with the "Nellie" early and worked hard until 1 P.M. to get the 2 boats to the foot. Car­ried the cook's things all the way over the side of the mountain, and found a good dinner awaiting us. This has been the hardest portage of the trip so far. The river falls about 30 feet in half a mile. Started out at 2:15 P.M. through rapid water. After running about a quarter of a mile in trying to avoid a rock on the right, came very near a huge one on the left. The "Nellie" fol­lowing close stood poised a moment on the summit then plunged down into the wave, entirely under, but came up all right. Soon came to the head of another fall and all being very tired decided to make Camp No. 23 on right bank, at 3:30 P.M. Made 1% miles. At Camp No. 22 the red sandstone cliffs begin to be capped with gray and between the two colors is the transition rocks of a reddish greyish cast. The rocks still dip to the south, showing that we are still running toward their axis. This morning Beaman took several views of the falls and surrounding scenery, one of Emma Cliff. About 10 o'clock the camp fire broke out and when we reached the spot (being nearly a mile away) had hard work "Thompson and Steward saw die mountain sheep on Wednesday, the 21st, not on die previous Sunday. aOf die first fall here, Beaman says, "Notiiing is visible save a white streak of foam, widi here and tiiere a formidable bowlder. This I name Bowlder Falls." In a footnote he credits "Steward, who never swears!" widi naming die entire rapid "Hell's Half Mile." Thompson also uses the term "Boulder Falls." 42 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY to save our things. Left the whole place burning, the smoke visible over the mountain from this camp. Sunday, June 25th. Waited until after dinner to get pictures of Leaping Brook crags, then let the boats down by line about a quarter and struck out' through small rapid. Stopped at the mouth of Alcove Brook to explore it and get some pictures. This is the prettiest place we have yet found. The brook has its source in some springs far up the mountain side, and comes down with a fall of at least 500 feet to the mile, cutting its way through the rocks forming hundreds of beautiful alcoves. The base of the rocks is red sandstone, the top limestone, between them in places transi­tion rock; in others one lies directly upon the other, while sometimes they are curiously intermixed, forming ribbon rocks. Our run from here to camp •was through smooth water in •which we hardly knew how to act. The red rocks have almost entirely disappeared and the white sandstone takes its place. Hills are getting lower with steeper sides. About half a mile above camp a vertical wall of white sandstone begins, averaging about 400 ft. in height. Made Camp No. 24 at 6 P.M. on left bank, at mouth of Bear [Yampa] River which comes from the east and is near the size of the Green here about 100 yards. It is a clear stream, is now quite low. Echo Park where we camped contains some 500 acres. Is surrounded by white cliffs among which are 3 distinct echoes. This is the end of Lodore Canon, with its 16 miles of bad rapids, high mountains, 3 falls and 10 portages. From head to foot the fall is about 400 feet. It seems good to see the sun after 4 o'clock once more. He bid us good night at 5:30 P.M. Monday, June 26th. Spent the day in duplicating maps, notes &c., taking observations and routine of camp life. Never find an idle moment. Tuesday, June 27th. This morning we unloaded the "Emma" took the photographic instruments, 3 days' rations, blankets and guns, and the Major, Beaman, Hattan, Hillers and self started up the Yampa, or Bear. After pulling about a mile found the current too strong for us so ran to shore, got out the line and towed along the bank. At 11 A.M. stopped on left bank under the shadow of the cliff for dinner, after which Beaman took a picture. Started again rowing and towing until we came to a rapid where there is a small rocky island in middle of stream where all got into the water and lifted the boat over the rocks. Just as we thought we were safely over, the bow of the boat swung around and down she went over the fall, the General [Hattan] and Bismark [Hillers] only hold of the line. Fortunately for us but un­fortunately for him the line caught around Hattan's leg; his foot became fastened between two rocks, and thus the boat was pre­vented from getting clear away. After 15 minutes hard work we succeeded in getting her up again stern first, when the water JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 43 proved too much for us and down she went again. Another struggle ensued, in which we were victorious, and safe above the rapid. Stopped for Beaman to take a view, then pulled across and made camp on right bank in a beautiful park. From the appearance this was a resort of the bear so we named it "Grizzly Park," and a beautiful spring near the river the same. This park represents a very singular piece of Topography. On either side are vertical cliff walls about 1000 ft. high while the ground in the park is nearly on a level, with the river gradually rising for about a mile, when it stretches into an immense plateau covered with large timber and luxuriant vegetation. On the opposite side a vertical wall of white sandstone rises 1500 feet with scarcely a break, its sides discolored by water impregnated with iron. Built a rousing fire, prepared and ate supper, dried clothing, listened to a canto of the "Lay of the Last Minstrel," then turned in, very tired, to enjoy a sound sleep. Made 4H miles. Wednesday, June 28th. Up early. After breakfast the Major and myself tried to climb out for observations, but found that we could not reach a point where we could see over the surround­ing mountains. Returned to camp, and waited for Hattan and Beaman who were out hunting and did not get in until noon. After dinner started up stream, sometimes pulling the line and at sunset made camp on right bank under some box elder trees. Just room enough to sleep on the bank without rolling into the river. Made 3% miles. Just before reaching camp, saw a mountain sheep and lamb on left bank. Tried our guns but failed to hit, and away they scampered up the rocks. Shortly after saw a flock of 7 looking down at us from the top of a cliff 1000 ft. high, but knew it was of no use to try for them. Heavy thunder and slight rain at noon. Thursday, June 29th. Started early. At 10 A.M. stopped on right bank, ate lunch and again tried to climb out but failed. Found a crag from which Beaman took some fine views. Named our landing 'Maple Park," a spot of 2 or 3 acres covered with maple trees. Started again at high 12 and towed most of the time until 4 P.M., then camped on left bank in the middle of a fine park running about 2 miles along the shore of the river, with fine grass, & a few trees. Near the head a mile above camp a beautiful grove of cottonwoods and a stream from the mountains. The "General" explored both creek and park, so we gave his name to them.88 The side next the mountains is an abrupt cliff wall. Three lateral canons come in, but only through one could we get out. Today the gray sandstone has been cut by narrow ribbons of limestone, dipping nearly south, disappearing ''But it was renamed "Steward Creek," after die graphic experience Steward and Clem Powell describe. Today it is called "Pool Creek." 44 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY just below camp. A short distance above the vermillion and gray are curiously blended. At supper made the discovery that the last of our flour was used, coffee gone, meat exhausted and the only thing left sugar. So we divided our supper into 3 portions, one for the present, one for morning, the other for dinner on the following day. Before another meal we must reach Camp on the Green. Turned in early for a hard day was before us. The night was the coldest since starting and all suffered. 2>Yi miles today. Friday, June 30th. Rolled out at 4 in the morning and soon had breakfast, consisting of one biscuit each, syrup from the sugar and some fish which "Bismark" had caught the night before. At 5 the Major and self started to climb a bald mountain about 2 miles away, but on account of the steep walls of the canon were obliged to make a long detour and climb out at the only pass for miles. Struck a trail which the game have made to reach the river, but saw none. Made good time and at 8 A.M. stood on the sum­mit of the mountain, if had eaten heartily of the fish and walked rapidly without water and now was quite sick for an hour. Made our observations, contemplated the scenery for a few minutes and began the descent at 10 A.M. The country presents a very singular appearance. From the east the river comes winding down the canon, which extends farther than we could see. At our feet it sweeps to the northwest following that general course to its mouth. The erosion has caused the surface of the mountains to slope to the south thus making the river run up hill as compared with the level of the country. To our left, looking nearly north, the vermillion sandstone cropped out, rounded into fantastic shapes by the action of the elements, appearing again far to the west, showing that the gray must have been eroded. To the south the country sloped in the same direction, while the valley of the White River could be seen. The descent was fatiguing but at 12:30 P.M. we reached camp, which had been moved a mile down stream where dinner of a biscuit and fish was waiting. I had enough of the fish so made a meal on my one cake, and at 1 P.M. we started down stream. The boys pulled with a will, for supper depended on reaching camp. Took Topography all the way down. Ran several rapids, made 3 portages by line, and reached camp at half past 4, finding Clem and Fred in possession, the rest having gone to climb a mountain. Supper was soon ready to which we did ample justice. The rest came in soon and the evening was spent in visiting. Tonight shows how much we really think of each other. The result of our 4 days' trip is the exploration and mapping of the Yampa for 12 miles, 13 good pictures, and ob­servations on many points that will be of much use. Saturday, July 1st, [1871]. Beaman took some views. Spent the day in taking time observations, copying notes, making maps JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 45 & no one far from camp. The Major got poisoned by bugs on our recent trip and suffered much this day. Sunday, July 2nd. This beautiful morning, after breakfast took an hour to myself, and spent the time reading and thinking of absent friends. Then assisted in taking time observations, copy­ing, studying published maps, &c. Tomorrow morning we leave this camp and try Whirlpool Canon. The water is rapidly falling which will probably make us hard work and add to the number of portages. Must mention our dinner today. It being Sunday the "General" gave us a splendid meal-warm biscuit, bean soup, boiled meat & fried ham, thickened gravy, apple sauce, sugar syrup, and as good tea as one need ever drink. Of course we are not suffering for rations. Some of the boys are calculating on a good time Tuesday; for my part expect we will spend the day making the first portage in Whirlpool [Canyon]. Monday, July 3rd. Broke camp at 7:50 A.M. and started south bearing a few points west. The Bear or Yampa united with the Green a few rods below camp, but makes but little difference in the size of the river. After running about half a mile the river makes a sudden turn nearly northwest around Echo [Steamboat] Rock and washes its west side for near a mile. The rock rises nearly vertical on both sides and at the north where it joins another mountain, but about 50 feet of wall separates the 2 channels of the river. Soon entered Whirlpool Canon and commenced running rapids, but no very bad ones, so stopped beside a high rock and crews of the "Emma" and "Nellie" took the "Emma's" line and let the boat down around the rock with Major and self in, then we took the rope and fastened boat, climbed the rock, took the "Nellie's" rope and brought them around, then let down by line Yl mile and stopped on right bank for dinner and to wait for the "Canonita" that had remained at Echo Park for pictures. They came down about 2 P.M. when we pulled out, ran 3 rapids and camped on right bank at mouth of Brush Creek,24 up which Bishop and self went some 4 miles through a beautiful valley with steep mountains on both sides. About 5 miles up the creek is a singular mountain, the base of gray sandstone surmounted with white sandstone, the mountain rising more than 2000 feet. From its shape we named it "The State House." Got into camp at dark. Just before the boats got into camp we saw a flock of 11 mountain sheep. Fred and I went ashore and climbed after them but did not get a shot. Camp No. 25. Ran 7 miles. "After he discovered tiiat die name "Brush Creek" had been applied to a stream diat enters Green River near Jensen, Powell changed die name of Brush Creek to "Bishop Creek," in honor of Captain F. M. Bishop of his party. The stream is locally known as "Jones Hole Creek," the valley itself being named for S. V. Jones. 46 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY Tuesday, July 4th. Early in the morning Prof, and Beaman commenced firing a national salute in which they were soon joined by most of the camp. Soon after breakfast, leaving Fred in charge of the Kitchen, the "General," Prof, and self started up the valley to climb out. Found no place where we could get out until we had walked some 4 miles. Then began to climb. Went up steep rocks near 1000 feet when we came to a vertical rock where there was no chance of going higher except by climbing up the wall. Sent Thompson up who found a narrow ledge where we could stand. Crept along the shelf for a long distance where a single misstep would have sent us down a thousand feet. About 1 P.M. we reached our point of observation, spent 2 hours in getting Topography, ate our biscuit, drank some coffee brought from the camp, and started down. Thought we could shorten our return route, and find an easier descent down the dry bed of a creek. After descending a long way found where there was an abrupt fall of about 200 feet. Of course we could not get down there, so we were obliged to climb back and hunt our trail of the morning. Got into camp just after dark where we found a fine supper. Wednesday, July 5th. Broke camp at 7:15 A.M., made 2 line portages, ran 3 bad rapids and got out of Whirlpool Canon at 3 P.M. The canon is 7Y miles long, has 6 bad rapids, a num­ber of small ones, and we let down by line 3 times. The rest of the day [we] were passing through Island Park55 a fine valley, wide river, and many islands. Made Camp No. 26 on right bank at head of Craggy Canon [Split Mountain Canyon] at 5:30 P.M., having run 13 miles. Thursday, July 6th. Did not break camp. I spent most of the day in making a pair of moccasins, having worn out my shoes. In the evening it was decided to exchange Fred for Bishop, take the "Emma" and run to the mouth of the Uintah to allow the Major to go up to the Agency. Friday, July 7th. We started out at 5:10 A.M., the rest of the party starting at the same time across the river to climb a mountain carrying the Photographic instruments. We immediate­ly ran into the canon and found rapids. Soon commenced letting down by line and continued most of the way for a mile. Then ran several rapids and so continued until 11:20 when we stopped for dinner on right bank. Started again at 1:15 P.M. and kept on running rapids and letting down by line until 4 P.M., when we ran out of the canon into the Uintah Valley. Craggy Canon is 6% miles long and has 5 bad rapids that we ran, and one fall, and 5 places where we let down with line. Pulled steadily until ""Dellenbaugh says the Major had some difficulty deciding whether to call the valley "Island" or "Rainbow Park." JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 47 6:20 P.M., when we made Camp No. 27 on left bank, having made 13}/£ miles. Camp seems lonely tonight, only 4 of us.86 Saturday, July 8th. Up early, breakfast over broke camp at 7:50 A.M., and ran through a country broken by small hills but no mountains near, a wide winding river with a great number of shoals and sand bars, on which we were grounded 3 times. Stopping on right bank at 11:50 A.M. for dinner. Pulled out at 1:50 P.M., made in all day 31 miles and Camp No. 28 on right bank at 5:25 P.M. Bishop gave out this morning after pulling an hour and I took the bow oars, using them all the rest of the day except one hour and 10 minutes in the afternoon. We were ail tired and slept sound. Killed 5 geese today and 3 yesterday, cooked one but it was too poor and tough to eat. Heavy rain at 2 P.M. Sunday, July 9th. Broke camp at 7:40 A.M. and pulled until 6 P.M. getting aground twice, stopping on left bank about 2 P.M. for dinner, making Camp No. 29 on right bank under a huge Cot­tonwood about Y m ^ e above the mouth of the Uintah [Duchesne] River." Ran 25 miles. Monday, July 10th. Early this morning Major 6 Jack shoul­dered rations, blankets and a gun, and struck out for the Agency. We, "Bish" and self, unloaded the boat, pulled it up on the beach, MJones, Bishop, and Hillers in the "Emma Dean" left Island Park on July 7 and boated down to the mouth of the Duchesne River. Jones and Bishop tem­porarily remained there, while Powell and Hillers went on at once by rough trail to die Uinta Indian Agency, where diey expected to obtain mail and supplies and to return in a few days to the boat party. However, for various reasons the plans were changed. On July 13 Powell continued on to Salt Lake City, and returned to the Agency on July 24, reporting diat Jacob Hamblin had been unable to carry out his agreement to bring camp supplies to the mouth of die Dirty Devil River and that tiierefore other plans must be made. After instructing the river party to continue the traverse of the Green as far as Gunnisons Crossing, Powell proceeded to Manti and Fairview, where he ob­tained die necessary food and equipment and widi the assistance of Fred Hamblin brought them to the designated rendezvous on August 29. After the "Emma Dean" had left, die crews of die "Canonita" and "Nellie PowelV proceeded down river, as described in the journals of Thompson, Dellenbaugh, Steward, and Clem Powell. Thompson records that they camped for two days "in a grove of cottonwoods" about 2 miles below the mouth of Brush Creek and near the present town of Jensen, where Indians were encamped. This site, a favorite crossing for the Uinta and White River Utes, was used by Escalante (September 13, 1776) and later by Spanish traders and trappers. Near it highway U. S. 40 crosses the river on a modern bridge. In the steeply folded rocks at die mouth of Split Mountain Canyon 5 miles nortii of Jensen, the abundant remains of Jurassic dinosaurs are the chief attraction in the Dinosaur National Monument. "The Utes called the Duchesne River the "Tewinty," and in such modified forms as Uintah, Uinta, and Winta die stream is mentioned in accounts of some trappers of die period 1830-1850 and appears on some early maps. In present official usage die Uinta River is a northern branch of the Duchesne, which enters about 12 miles above its mouth. 48 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY and calked the seams and fixed up things in general. The day seemed long and [we] were very lonely. At night especially we missed the rest of the party. On the cottonwood under which we were camped is cut the name of Ferrell-1841.88 Tuesday, July 11th. Spent the day in fixing things to leave and at 4 P.M. ran down the Green to the mouth of the Uintah, then up that about half a mile, hid our boat under the willows along the bank and started for the Agency at 5:30 P.M. carrying our blankets, coats, 2 days' rations, sketch books, and guns. Struck a lodge pole train [trail ?] and travelled northwest, across the bottom of an old lake for 5 or 6 miles, then climbed a range of low hills, skirting the Uintah and travelled until nearly dark, then went down to the river on our left, made camp, cooked our supper, made our bed, lay down, talked about the country, Indians, &c. awhile, then went to sleep and rested well. Wednesday, July 12th. Arose early; breakfast was soon dis­posed of, and march resumed. Travelled over the hills 4 or 5 miles, then the trail led into the river bottom and across the stream fol­lowing the valley 7 or 8 miles, then climbed a range of rocky hills at the foot of which we stopped for dinner. Struck out again about noon and travelled until dark, both getting very tired, when we concluded to camp. Slept in the trail. Thursday, July 13th. While getting breakfast ready an old Indian with his squaw rode up and immediately began begging. Supplied their wants as far as possible. Found that they belonged to the White River tribe who had been visiting and were now re­turning. Had 4 ponies, one of which the man bestrode carrying only his gun; another horse was packed with their lodge, the third the lady bestrode like a man, the fourth was loose. They soon left us, the man leading the way, the squaw driving the loose horse. We started again wading the stream and continued travel­ling northwest, crossing several small streams. In about half an ^At die mouth of the Duchesne the "Emma Dean" remained 26 days and die "Canonita" and "Nellie Powell" 21 days-periods much longer than had been anticipated. The delay was caused by the difficulty of obtaining rations at die Uinta Indian Agency and especially because it was learned that arrange­ments made with Mormon "guides" in 1870 for transporting supplies to stations fardier down die Green and die Colorado had not been carried out. Without diese supplies it seemed foolhardy to attempt the traverse through formidable canyons to Lees Ferry. Accordingly the expedition remained for diree weeks within easy reach of the Uinta Agency and tiien leisurely made its way to Gunnisons Crossing, where Powell had agreed to bring provisions and clodi-ing and equipment needed for boat repairs. The long stop gave ample time for a scientific investigation of die local region and the lower 40 miles of die White River. The camp at die moutii of die Duchesne was at a crossing favored by the Indians and in frequent use by trappers, traders, and prospectors during the years preceding 1850, and later by travelers between Colorado and Utah, It is the site of the present tiny village of Ouray, where die long-used ferry has been replaced by a bridge. JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 49 hour came in sight of an inclosed field, and shortly afterward reached .the Agency.28 Find 7 log buildings roofed with dirt, and one frame used as an office. Major Powell had started for Salt Lake early in the morning. Found "Jack" [Hillers] who1 gave us our letters, my own share being 10, but no papers. The Agent, Rev. J. J. Critchlow, had gone to Salt Lake taking with him 5 of the 11 employees. He left orders that no transportation be given our rations. So George Basor, the trader, was hired to land [bring] them. Spent the morning in reading letters, resting, and getting acquainted. Thos. Layton, J. L. Campbell, Martin Mor­gan and in fact all of the white men seemed glad to help us in every way. At noon sat down to a table, but scarcely knew how to act. In afternoon Cap did some copying and both enjoyed a good rest. Slept on the hay, refusing the offer of a bunk, preferring out doors. Friday, July 14th. This morning Mr. Layton saddled 3 animals and accompanied us on a ride up the valley. Visited several of the Indian lodges, the farm and ruins of an old Moquis [Pueblo] town. The chief of this tribe is named Ta-Awa80 is more than 70 years old, has just married a wife, about 16. The finest looking Indian of the tribe is To-a-quan-av. He is very large and quite intelligent. Has a fine field of corn, wheat, potatoes, pumpkins, &c, which he cultivates well-and all give promise of good yield. The farming of the red men is very crude. But few of them will work. The government supports them. They have some very good ponies, a number of goats and a few cattle. The tribe numbers about 250 all told. The appropriation for their support this year is $30,000, aside from annuities of clothing and blankets. The old men of the tribe are quiet and peaceably dis­posed. The young ones chafe at restraint, think it an act of bravery to kill a defenseless white man, and glory in stealing horses. One of them, "Yank," called one of the best, showed me a wound in his hip received recently while trying to steal horses in Utah Valley. The medicine man of the tribe is quite good looking and intelligent for a savage. To-a-quan-av means Moun­tain Lion. He ought to be and will be some day, chief of the tribe. Returned to the quarters for dinner and spent the rest of the day there. In the afternoon San-i-kata and Joe, 2 young beaus came in. They were quite well dressed. Fancy leggins, new blankets, red handkerchiefs, and a great quantity of orna­ments of brass and German silver. They are the fast youths of "The Agency headquarters was located on the White Rocks River, near the site of Antoine Robidoux's Fort Wintey. The Uinta Basin had been set apart as an Indian reservation by President Abraham Lincoln on October 3, 1861. "Bishop renders die name "Tab-u"; Thompson "Toby." Usually spelled "Tabby" by die Mormons, it was translated as "The Sun." Bishop's spelling of the Indian name following is also variant-"To-quan-er." 50 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY the settlement. The Agency is located between the Uintah and East Fork, on a small stream flowing into the latter. Is near the base of the Uintah Mountains, the general direction of which are east and west. The Wasatch range trend from northwest to southeast. The 2 ranges inclose the valley of the Uintah reach­ing to Green River. In the valley are Duchesne, Lake Fork, Deep Fork, East Fork, and several smaller streams all flowing into the Uintah which rises in the range of the same name, flows a general southeasterly course to the Green. Is about 60 miles in a straight line. The Agency is about 25 miles west of Green River, and near 40 miles southwest of the mouth of Uintah. There is a farm of about 25 acres under cultivation, on which are growing wheat, corn, pota­toes, barley, oats, buckwheat, turnips &c, all of which look well. The Agency keeps 10 head of horses and mules, 30 or 40 working oxen, and a few cows. Pardo [Pardyn] Dodds the former Agent, lives here, keeps about 75 head of cattle, which he keeps on the reservation by permission of the Indians. He has built a small log house31 on the east side of the Green 2 miles above the mouth of the White River on the reservation of that tribe and intends moving there when the Uintahs get tired of him. In the evening while sitting in front of the blacksmith shop a gun was fired in the woods down the road, the ball whistling close by us, followed by a yell. Soon more shots and yells. As the Arapahoes had threatened an attack we seized our guns and prepared for action. Soon 3 Indians passed going up the Valley to the camp. Their arrival was greeted by shouts which continued at intervals nearly all night. "Bismark" and I concluded to move our bed within doors and slept for the first and only night since May 20th under a roof. Saturday, July 15th. This morning we learned that the commotion was caused by the arrival of some of the White River tribe on a visit, who having procured some "Fire water" were rather careless of their actions. They bring good news for this tribe. Washington (who they believe is yet alive) has sent them all things. Poor simple people. Someone has been deluding them. After breakfast Cap and self started on the return trip. We were provided with a pony, and mule through the kindness of Messrs. Layton & Campbell, on which the journey was easily performed before sunset. Found the other boats and crews who had arrived the evening before. It seemed good to meet them after a separation of 9 days. We brought their letters and for the next hour they were busy in reading news from absent friends. None later than June 14th so we are still without recent news from the outside world. We sat until late recounting adventures since we parted. They came through without accident. Had some serious times and some laughable ones. Saw several Indians. Found a great "Pictured in Utah Historical Quarterly, 1947, vol. XV, facing p. 177. Below, Paiute children of the Kai-vav-its or Kaibab band. Photographed by J. K. Hillers. Above, a lodge of the Uinta Indians, photographed by J. K. Hillers about 1873. INDIANS OF THE COLORADO RIVER BASIN, PHOTOGRAPHED BY THE POWELL EXPEDITIONS Courtesy, U. S. Geological Survey. JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 51 number of fossils and took pictures of a number of scenes. Just at the lower end of Craggy Canon they found some pictures on the rocks in the form of men, buffaloes, and other animals, evi­dently the work of some of the Indian tribes. Beaman took views of them and Fred sketched them. Prof, and Beaman will return to the Agency Monday and we remain here a week or two.88 Sunday, July 16th. This morning we moved camp across the river and took possession of a small log house, without floor or windows, belonging to Pardo Dobbs, an Indian trader, who has obtained permission of the White River Utes to build here. Fixed tables and seats with some loose boards and began duplicating maps, notes, sketches, writing letters 6 c , to be sent out by Basor the setler [sutler] of the Agency, who will be down with our rations about Thursday or Friday. Thermometer 103° at 2 P.M. Monday, July 17th. This afternoon Thompson and Beaman started for the Agency. Tuesday, July 18th. Still at the shanty on the east side of the Green just above the mouth of the Uintah, and about a mile and a half above the mouth of the White. Heavy thunder and black clouds in the P.M., and slight rain at dark. [Wednesday, July 19th. No entry.] fflOn returning to die moudi of the Duchesne, Jones and Bishop found the otiier members of the expedition in camp. Under the instructions tiiey had brought from Powell, Thompson and Beaman then set out for the Agency, die former to see about rations to be brought down by George Basor, the latter to take pictures of die Indians. Thompson shared Jones's view of conditions at the Agency, diinking it as then conducted "a cheat, a swindle." Beaman, however, found an amusing side to their assignment. He writes: Superstitious as they all are, it was some time before I could per­suade any of diem to sit for a picture. It chanced, however, that one of their most famous braves, Antro by name, had had his likeness taken at Salt Lake City a few weeks before, and, as the operation had not made him "heap sick," some of his brotiiers were persuaded to be photographed. Tabba, the head chief of the tribe, sat to prove his cour­age and the experiment, and, as it did not seem to hurt him any, several others consented to make the trial. The next day but one I went up into tiieir village to get some views of their wigwams, and found that diey had given me the somewhat mortifying sobriquet "Koch Weno"-"no good medicine-man." At the door of die first hut we were met by an old Indian and his squaw, and warned away. They tiiemselves did not want to die, and several of their ponies were ' heap sick" already. The interpreter, Mr. Basor, tried to explain away their fears, but to no purpose, and we proceeded to die lodge of die chief, whom after the lapse of 48 hours we found as skeptical as the rest. He finally took die interpreter aside, and after being gravely assured tiiat die "thing" would not "go off," nor put die "evil eye" on them, permitted me to take the desired views. This was a great favor, according to die interpreter, who told me that every misfortune attending diem for die next six months, would be attributed to our visit. 52 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY Thursday, July 20th. Saw 4 antelope about a mile away and Fred, Andy & self tried to get them but failed. Steward is getting very low spirited, and is quite unwell. (Am afraid his health will fail, and he be obliged to go home.) Heavy thunder and sharp lightning in afternoon, and light shower in the night. We are getting tired of this camp. Friday, July 21st. Very hot all morning. Basor and "Bis-mark" came at 11:30 A.M. with rations. They were since yester­day morning coming from the Agency. Brought a wagon and 4 horses. After dinner Basor started back taking out some things we wish to leave, also our letters which numbered 20 or more. Black clouds came up early in the afternoon, and considerable rain fell, accompanied with heavy thunder and sharp lightning. Soon after lying down it commenced raining and continued near half the night. Some of the boys went under shelter of the roof, but the "General" and myself drawing our rubbers up weathered it. Got a little wet. Saturday, July 22nd. Another day passed slowly by. Heavy thunder and a very slight rain. Wish it were possible for me to paint or describe the beauty of sunset here. As the God of the day approaches the west, its gates are lighted with gold and pearl in honor of his coming. The distant clouds of deepest blue are tinged with purple, and the whole western horizon reflects his glow. The white clouds that rise from beyond the mountains form a background more splendid than can be described. Slowly the sun sinks, now the brightness of his face is veiled in a passing cloud. Anon he beams full upon the earth he is leaving to darkness. Now half his disk is hid. Now with sudden plunge he is gone behind the Uintahs. His beams still illumine the horizon above us, but the light is growing fainter, and still fainter. It has disappeared and night and the silence of the wilderness are around us. Sunday, July 23rd. This morning the boys came out with clean shirts, the effect of soap, new white canvas pants, and hands and face polished. Not to be out of fashion my own costume was made to conform. In the afternoon a tornado passed from the north­west filling eyes with dust and covering everything exposed. Con­siderable thunder during the day. Everyone took a holiday. No work done. Monday, July 24th. This morning Steward, Bishop and Fred shouldered blankets, guns, and 4 or 5 days' rations, and started up White River. They will attempt to reach Goblin City-a curious collection of rocks. Andy, Clem, Bismark, and self remained at camp. Jack is busy making moccasins. Says he intends giving each of the party a pair. Heavy thunder, but no rain. Tuesday, July 25th. Last night seemed lonely, only 4 [of us] where usually there are 10. Spent the day in copying. Clem cleaned glass and prepared things for work when we again