Utah Historical Quarterly Volume XVI - XVII

Journal of Stephen Vandier Jones, edited by Dr. Herbert E. Gregory - 2

JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 53 start. Jack still making shoes. Andy cooking. High wind, con­siderable thunder in afternoon. Slight shower at dark. The barometer shows that we have descended about 1500 feet on the trip. Distance from head of Brown's Park to Gate of Lodore 27Yi miles including Swallow Canon near center 2 miles long. From Gate of Lodore to Echo Park 16 miles. From Echo Park to Island Park 11% miles. Whirlpool Canon 8% miles. It has 8 rapids of which I made note. In it we made 3 line portages. Island Park is 8}4 miles reaching from Whirlpool to Craggy canons. Craggy Canon is 6% miles long. Has 11 rapids and 5 line portages, one near a mile long. From Craggy Canon to the mouth of the Uintah 56% miles. Total distance from head of Brown's Park to Mouth of Uintah 127 miles. No. of canons 4. Length of canons 33 miles. No. of rapids run [ ]. No. of portages made 7. No. of times boats and cargoes were let down by lines [ ]. Thunder shower in afternoon and very little rain in the night. Wednesday, July 26th. Rain all around but none in camp until night, then rain. Thursday, July 27th. Dark clouds in every direction. At half past two a thunder storm passed over us from southwest to northeast. The rain fell in torrents, leaving pools of water in its track, but within 30 minutes the sandy soil had absorbed most of the moisture. Steward, Bishop & Fred came in at dark. Report having gone up the White some 40 miles, found Goblin City but no marked change in Geology. Made a raft of 7 Cottonwood trees, and came down the river a day and a half, running a few small rapids. [Friday, July 28th. No entry.] Saturday, July 29th. We spent the day in finding fault with each other. At sunset we heard "Hello" across the river. All ran down the bank and saw an Indian watering his horse who called "Americans coming." Two boats were launched and we were soon over the stream where we met Thompson and Beaman who had rode from the Agency since morning. They brought letters for all- (mine were 4 and a few papers, one for me the [Lacon, 111.] journal of July 1st. Hamblin (the man employed to bring in rations) returned to Salt Lake just after Major Powell left for Uintah, sent a messenger after him to say that he could find no trail in to the "Dirty Devil." The Major had already sent Dodds" to explore a route. Now he hired at Heber City an old Indian in­terpreter, [Marion J.] Shelton, and came to Uintah Agency, hired an Indian "Yank" who claims to have been there and knows a "Captain Pardyn Dodds, U. S. Army, was stationed at "Fort Uintah," the Uinta Indian Agency. On finding that the mouth of the Dirty Devil was inac­cessible by pack train, he seems to have explored other possible routes to die Green and Colorado rivers. He led die company diat brought provisions to die river party at the Crossing of die Fadiers. 54 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY trail, bought a horse and mule, and this morning started for Fill­more City'* to see if a way can be found to get rations to us at the Dirty [Devil] Creek. If he succeeds will meet us at the mouth of White [Price River], that comes in from the west about 100 miles this side. If they cannot get in at that place, they will go on the old Spanish trail that crosses a short distance below the mouth of the San Juan,"5 where we will be obliged to run before getting rations. So we will not see the Major before the first of September at best, and perhaps not until the last. The Indian who came down is a curious specimen. He seems to think that white men come here to bring the natives all the things they want. He was an importunate beggar. Until late we sat reading letters and papers, the latest July 12th. A [copy of the] Buffalo Express came containing a letter from Dellenbaugh sent from Green River City. A Chicago Tribune with a letter from W. C. Powell sent from Brown's Park. I was requested to read it and was interrupted many times with such exclamations as "what a lie," "why Clem, how could you write such stuff," &c. Clem indignantly denied having sent any such letter, says that he wrote his brother an account of the trip with permission to have it published in the Naperville paper, but no such as that. He claims that Richardson has visited his brother and to his imaginative mind is due the coloring. My own letter from the Gate of Lodore was pronounced "wano" [fcuemo=good] which of course made me feel very comfortable. Sunday, July 30th. This morning the red man started home taking the 3 horses and our pack mule. For a wonder we all rested. Seemed the most like Sunday of any day yet spent on the trip. About 3 P.M. as some of the boys were crossing the Green to get clear water from the Uintah they saw on the bank a young Indian and his bride (the same that they ferried over on their way down) who they brought over to camp. He claimed to be the son of Douglass, the chief of the White River tribe. Prof. Thomp­son says he saw them at the Uintah Agency, and heard this story. The girl had promised to marry another man, but eloped with Jack Douglass. The discarded lover is in pursuit of the pair threatening death to the groom if caught. Jack acts as though afraid, while the face of his squaw looks troubled. She is young and quite good looking. Both well dressed. After supper they recrossed the river, where their ponies were, to spend the night. Weather quite cool at night. "The reference to Fillmore City is doubtless an error. Other accounts state that supplies were obtained at Fairview and Manti. "Jones may have had in mind die Crossing of die Fatiiers, or perhaps a chimerical crossing of the Colorado vaguely indicated on maps previous to Powell's explorations. JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 55 Monday, July 31st. Steward and Fred started across the White to be gone 2 days. Bishop and self began again on maps. Clem & Jack ferried our Indians over to camp. They will probably remain near as long as we do, at least as long as we feed them. Andy being unwell the boys are taking turns in cooking. About 4 P.M. Steward and Fred came in. Steward "played out." Em­ployed Douglass' squaw to make me a pair of moccasins. Tuesday, August 1st, [1871]. This morning upon crossing the river found the moccasins finished and also found that the makers had appropriated enough of our deer skin to make a pair for themselves. When it was taken away the Indian became very angry but was pacified upon receiving the promised dollar; came over to camp. Spent the most of the day, allowed Beaman to take some pictures of their lovely persons, recrossed in the afternoon and soon after started off in a westerly direction. [Wednesday and Thursday, August 2nd and 3rd. No entry.] Friday, August 4th. Have everything packed ready for an early start in the morning. Have overhauled the boats, calked and pitched the seams and made them water-tight. Have duplicated all maps, notes and observations, one copy to be carried in the "Emma" and one in the "Nellie." Have made observations here for latitude and longitude, surveyed and mapped the White and Uintah rivers, and looked at the same scenery until all are tired and anxious to be gone. The nights are getting cool and we hope hottest weather is passed. Saturday, August 5th. Broke camp at 7:25 and again started on our journey. Passed the mouth of the Uintah at Y m^e, then a large island wooded, then the White River on left. The former stream is about 3 rods wide, 3 feet deep, water nearly clear. Comes from the Uintah Mountains, flows southeast. The White rises in the Rocky Mountains and flows in general southwest direction. At the mouth is about 2 rods wide, shallow, nearly clear and cold. After running 4 or 5 miles saw an Indian wickiup on right bank; pulled in found Jack Douglass and squaw, the former in all the glory of paint sitting in the shade, while Lizzie was drying venison and curing deer skins. Traded sugar to them for a few pieces of dried meat. Bid them good-bye, probably forever, pulled out again, soon ran aground; the boys jumped into the water pulled the boats over the bar and on we went. Ran aground again before noon. Stopped for dinner on right bank in a grove of cottonwoods just where the river makes a turn to the east, at 11:30 A.M. Thomp­son, Steward and self climbed the hills. Found no change in Topography or Geology. Started at 2:15 P.M. and ran until 5:25 P.M. Shooting at beaver (one of which Beaman killed, as also a badger) giving chase to 2 deer but getting neither; made Camp No. 33 on the east bank of a large island in the middle of the stream, where it runs nearly south, in a beautiful cottonwood grove, 56 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY but the soil, as at every other camp nearly, very sandy. Ran 1634 miles. In 1869 they made the run 26 miles. The river wide, very low, full of sand bars, with a number of islands, and water very dirty. Considerable timber on the banks in the valley, which is bounded by gradually rising hills from 200 or 300 feet high, com­posed of disintegrated Tertiary shale on a bed of dark sandstone, sometimes discolored by iron, sometimes with thin strata of blue clay between. From the hills the country looks as desolate as any we have yet seen. On one [hill] climbed at noon we found 2 mounds of stone evidently marking the graves of some of the red men whose spirits had departed to the happy hunting grounds. General course of the river 7 degrees east of south. Sunday, August 6th. This morning Andy was quite unwell, and Beaman too sick to sit up. After breakfast spent an hour in reading and writing up my journal. Then Prof., Steward, Hillers and I crossed the river and climbed the hills finding nothing but desola­tion." Not a green thing, even the cactus and sage bushes dying. Went up a small lateral canon, the loose shale giving beneath my feet. Hills about 500 feet high. Got back to camp about 11. Spent the rest of the day in making a map, reading &c. Men all well enough for supper. Monday, August 7th. Broke Camp No. 25 [35]. General ap­pearance of the country not much changed. The river runs in big bends. Hills broken, sometimes coming to the river, then running back forming parks near the stream. Some trees along the banks. River very low and full of sand bars, on which we were stuck several times. One of the boys shot a beaver. Stopped on right bank at 10:35 for dinner. Ran 7Y miles. Thompson, Steward and Bishop climbed the hills before dinner. No marked change in Topography or Geology. Pulled out at 3 P.M. and ran down a fair stream, wide and shallow with a great many sand bars, on some of which we all got aground. A number of islands, some wooded but timber getting more scarce and wall higher, at camp near 600 or 700 feet, all of cretaceous shale belonging to the ter­tiary. The hills present a singular appearance. Look white at a dis­tance; on nearer approach they show of all colors. Sometimes stain­ed with iron, sometimes strata of blue, yellow or white clay inter­vene. Country more desolate. From Camp 33 a second terrace of hills arises to the height of 1000 or more feet. The boys climbed the same hill at noon that those of 1869 did. Made 16J/£ miles and "For about 90 miles below the mouth of White River the valley of die Green River is relatively shallow and bordered by rocks of many colors which have been carved by minor canyons and gullies into low terraces, mesas, and innumerable picturesque erosion forms. The plant life is scant and specialized. Powell calls this stretch of river die "Terrace Canyons." Thompson remarks: "I think it merits the term of 'Desolation.'" On modern maps die stream channel through die lower part of this barren, unfriendly country is shown as "Desolation Canyon," which terminates at die Brown Cliffs. JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 57 camped on large island on left bank with a few cottonwood trees and some willows where the river runs southeast, then turns southwest. General course near south. According to the map of 1869, 28 miles. Prof, shot a beaver just before camping. Passed a stranded railroad tie that has floated from the bridge in Green River City, or farther. Tuesday, August 8th. Fried some beaver steak for break­fast but found it rather tough. Broke camp at 7:45, ran about \Y miles getting aground once and stopped on an island to get some pictures. Decided to stay for dinner. Looked around, crossed to the main land, and hearing a familiar roar around the corner went down and found a small rapid. Worked on map until dinner. Had some of the beaver in soup, but all decided that it was not a success. Beaman got two good pictures. Started at 1 P.M. turned the corner, the walls coming quite close on both sides, and ran our first rapid in the Canon of Desolation. Decided to call this the head of the canon. Ran 2 miles, stopped on an island on left for the barometrical observation. Beaman found some fine views, which could only be taken in the morning, so made Camp No. 35 at 2 P.M., having run 3% miles. Passed another stranded tie. On the island are a few cottonwood and box elder trees, some willows, and quantity of bries [briars] and considerable driftwood. Prof, and self climbed out down the river. Found that the stream bends back almost upon itself. Just below the rapid run this afternoon a sharp ledge of rock divides the stream. Standing upon this we threw rocks into the river on both sides, the distance being not over 500 feet. The river today has run in quite large bends, gen­eral course 3° south of west. Rocks, light colored tertiary shale with strata of different colored intermingled. Gradually getting higher. In many places vertical to the water. Much broken by small lateral canons and gulches. Opposite camp the wall is near 1000 feet. Country back very desolate. Entirely worthless. By map [of] 1869. Wednesday, August 9th. This morning clouds covered the sky so that Beaman could not take the pictures as wanted so did not break camp. Employed ourselves in various ways. Finished the first map of the river and back country from mouth of Uintah to this point. The rest finished first copy of their work to date. Beaman, Clem, Fred, Bismark and Thompson carried the photo­graphic things up the hills back of camp and left them there and crossed the river; found a small lateral canon, and in afternoon he, Prof, and Clem went over to climb out. Came back in an hour or two reporting no chance of getting out, walls too steep and high. About 10 o'clock it commenced to rain and Fred and I stretched our [tar]paulin and crept under. Slight showers all day. Gloomy. Andy and Beaman taking medicine. Hillers has procured a book and spent the time today in writing up from the start. Believe each 58 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY member of the party is keeping a journal with the exception of Hattan. Thursday, August 10th, 1871. Went up on the hills where Beaman took 7 pictures. Dinner at 11:30 A.M., and at 12:10 P.M., broke camp. Dropped down about a quarter of a mile, stopped to get a picture of a lateral canon, and went ahead. The rocks getting steeper and higher. Came closer to the river which grows narrower. About 5 o'clock struck a small rapid. Made Camp No. 36 on left bank at 5:40 P.M. Made 10 miles. Prof, and self looked along the canons to find a place to climb out in the morning. The rocks growing harder and darker. All belong to the Tertiary. We are getting deeper into the strata showing an upheaval and that we are travelling toward the axis. Some thin beds of clay shale of blue and green. Friday, August 11th. This morning Thompson, Steward and Bishop climbed out at a small lateral canon just above camp. After Beaman took some views, we moved 2 of the boats down a fourth of a mile to the mouth of another canon on the left and stopped until after dinner. Beaman and Clem took some views, among them one of a large rock that shows its formation to have been in comparatively still water. About 11 o'clock the boys came back and reported the cliffs about 2500 feet high, rising back 800 or 1000 feet more and the walls at the top of the canon about 5 miles apart. After dinner pulled out at 12:40 and ran through still water 2 miles where found a long line of rapids. Examined them and decided to run. The water being very low the rocks came close to the top but not far enough to be seen. Went through 2 rapids all right. The "Nellie" striking once but doing no damage. Near the foot of the third the "Nellie" struck a rock but went over. Steered the "Emma" a little more to the right but was obliged to run close to the same place to avoid another rock and struck on the same one. Hung until Jack jumped out and pushed us off. Made land close to the "Nellie," both boats all right. Beaman with the "Canonita" tried to run close to the left shore, struck one big rock, then another, the last broadside; stove a hole in the starboard standing room, and made land with the boat leaking badly. Took us an hour and half to repair dam­ages. Pulled across the stream to look at another rapid. Then started down. The "Nell" struck twice, the "Emma" once; the boys jumped out and steadied the boats through. The "Canonita" struck and hung until pushed off. Ran a long way in water so shallow that the boats' keels were continually scraping. Then a mile or so through smooth water and made Camp No. 37 on left bank near some cottonwood trees, at the head of another rapid at 5 P.M., having made 4 ^ miles. We were still cutting through the dark sandstone running down toward the axis. Slight ribbon beds of limestone and an occasional strata of blue or green shale JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 59 clay. The light-colored shale has nearly eroded from the top. General course one degree east of south. Saturday, August 12th, 1871. Started at 7:35 A.M. and began by walking beside the boats most of the way for half a mile through shoal water, then ran a succession of small rapids for 2 miles farther, then a rapid at short distances until 11 A.M., when we stopped on left bank, having run 5% miles. After dinner, concluded to remain in camp until Monday. Hillers and Fred climbed the side of a mountain for the pitch of the red pine to use in calking the boats. Gone most of the afternoon. Reported the side of the mountain much broken and difficult to climb. We are still cutting deeper in the dark sandstone. River more narrow generally. Just opposite camp is a large sand bar which now at low water forms an island. At the narrowest part of the left hand channel which we ran is not more than 50 feet wide. A short distance below camp the river turns nearly southwest, run­ning about southeast at camp and divides into 2 channels, the one we must take being full of rocks; looks very much like a line portage. General course today 23 degrees west of south. Camp No. 38. Sunday, August 13th. This morning Prof., Steward and self climbed a mountain a short distance below camp. Reached it through a small valley covered with dead sage and grease weed bushes, and much cut by gulches. Went up a lateral canon some distance then up a sharp ridge between 2 dry water courses. Found hard climbing. Passed over hard tertiary sandstone then clay shale. Soon struck cedars, then piiion pine, shortly red pine and fir-the first timber found on the mountains in this canon. The mountain climbed is 2556 feet by barometrical measurement, which is the general height of the canon walls, which are from Y mile to a mile apart. Above the back of them rise higher moun­tains, much broken. The whole country very desolate. To the northwest we got a glimpse of the Uintah snow-covered moun­tains. To the southeast a huge column of smoke arose, probably from the country of the Cheviot [Shivwit] Utes. Took bearings on a high wooded mountain 12 or 15 miles down the canon to be climbed when reached. Returned to camp to dinner, then tried an hour or two of rest. The rocks on the sides of the canon walls are much honey-combed by the action of frost and water, showing the nodules were softer than the beds from which they have been eroded. In coming down the mountain found 2 springs of water, the first for more than a 100 miles. The rocks in this canon so far all belong to the fresh water Tertiary period. Monday, August 14th, 1871. Broke camp at 7:30 A.M. Ran a small rapid in the narrow left-hand channel, then through smooth water about a quarter of a mile, then where the river [turns ?] short to the right or nearly southwest found a long shallow rapid. 60 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY Steered for the center, drifted down until we struck rocks, then jumped out and walked beside the boats (sometimes hanging on through deep water) for about half a mile, then smooth water for a mile and a half which brought us to another rapid. Ran it to find a bad one where we let down by line near a fourth of a mile on left bank, then rowed carefully along a short distance to the worst place in the canon so far. Let the boats down by line on left bank, 2 men with each boat wading where possible when not holding fast and swimming. Made dinner camp on left bank just below this fall, which we named "Fret Water." While the meal was being prepared Thompson and self went ahead for a look at the river. Found some bad rapids, but concluded to run them. Started at 2:45 P.M. and took one of the most exciting rides for half a mile, I ever experienced. Near the head is a smooth fall of 2 or 3 feet which upon passing we found to be rock on which our oars struck. The water being quite low, rock after rock was seen that could not be distinguished from shore. Among these we were compelled to run, winding along at the risk of striking every moment. Landed at the head of another rapid where we found it necessary to again let down by line. Beaman and Clem took the instruments and stopped in a narrow valley that extends from near dinner camp to below night camp, on the left, for pictures. Let the boats down about Y OI a mile, got in, ran rapids near a half [mile] farther and made Camp No. 39 on left bank under some dwarf cottonwoods. Ran 5J/£ miles. Ran 8 rapids, walked beside the boats through 2 shallow ones, and made 2 line portages. Just below camp is swift water to another rapid that looks very much like a portage. The canon walls today have been very much broken up, many places small valleys to the river. General height 1500 to 1800 feet. Width at top from Y to a mile. Friday, August 15th, 1871. Waited for pictures and did not start until 9:45, then ran a small rapid and through swift water to a fall where we let down by line about Y or a mile. This fall is 6 or 7 feet and we named it "Five Point Fall," from 5 mountains coming together near it. From this ran a rapid, then another to a place where the rocks made another line portage necessary. Stopped on left bank at 12:10 P.M. for dinner, and went ahead for a look. Through one rapid run this morning the water was so shallow that the keels scraped the bottom for near half a mile. Sometimes the boats would float, sometimes ground when we would jump out and push off. Pulled out at 2:30 P.M. and let down a long fourth of a mile, then in through quite rapid water to the head of another rapid where we again let down by line. Took the "Canonita" through first to allow the General to get supper. Isolated rocks extended so far into the stream that we could not walk along shore with the line so one waded out to JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 61 one rock, another to one below him, until 5 of us were stationed at different points. Two men clung to the boat, wading when they could when too deep [for] swimming. The first man on the rocks held the line until the boat reached the next, when he held to the next, and so through the rapid until it was thought safe to run when the crew manned the oars, dropped down a short distance and made Camp No. 40 on right bank.87 The "Emma" followed, Fred and myself bringing her in while Hillers assisted with the "Nellie." Footed up the log and found we had made 3% miles. Camped at 5:20 P.M. Slept within sound of a rapid above and one below. Canon walls about 1000 feet at camp. Much broken by small lateral canons and gulches. From Y t o /4 m i ' e wide at top. General character of walls geologically Tertiary sandstone, with some strata of clay shale, all very easily eroded. Wednesday, August 16th, 1871. Decided not to break camp. The boys fixed up some shelter tents on the sand and prepared to be as comfortable as possible. A few small cottonwood trees grow at this camp, but their shade was very small. The sun after climbing to the summit of the hills shines very hot. Prof, and I went down the river some 2 miles on left bank. Through a small valley covered with grease weed, sage brush, a few cedars, and cottonwoods. A great deal of white sand along the river bank. Found a rapid just below camp that we will try to run. Below that 2 portages, then a rapid that we could not approach near enough to decide what would be necessary. This gives us work enough for one day when we again start. Found Bismark and Sandy busy filling the seams of our boats with cotton and pitch. The other boats need the same treatment, especially the "Canonita." After dinner Thompson and Bishop went up the river. Returned in an hour or two. Climbed up a gulch 200 or 300 feet and found a spring of water. Near that some curious lime fossils on a bunch of grass, leaves, &c. The day passed in the usual routine of camp life. Thursday, August 17th. Thompson, Steward and self went up the river on right bank about a mile then up a lateral canon, where we saw 2 mountain sheep, one of which Steward wounded; both escaped. Climbed up the steep side of a mountain and at half past 10 found ourselves at the top about 2 miles back from the river and 3000 feet above it. The air was so full of smoke that it was difficult to distinguish objects at any distance. Below the hills seem to be lower and run transversely across the river which cuts through them. Their sides are very much eroded and vast gulches or canons separate them from each other. The S7This type of portage became variously known to die members of the party as a "Kicking" or "K.G." or "Keg" portage. Thompson says laconically, "It is easier for the boats but harder for the men." Also see Clem Powell's descrip­tion under tiiis date. 62 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY timber on the mountains is principally on the north side and con­sists of fir, spruce, cedar, pinon, and red pine, with an occasional mountain maple. The hills are destitute of flowers and the whole country well deserves the name of desolation. Back to camp at 1 P.M. Pulled out at 2:10 and immediately ran a rapid, the keels of the boats striking rocks. Ran another rapid and pulled in to left bank at the head of another bad one down which we let the boats by line. Then ran another rapid and landed on right bank at head of another one. Nine Mile Creek [Minnie Maud Creek] comes in on right here. A small clear, cold stream. Here Beaman and Clem stopped to take pictures. We made a line portage with the "Nellie" and "Dean," then came back for the "Canonita." While in the center of the rapid Beaman took a view, which is splendid. He also took one of a high cliff on left bank on which is an isolated rock looking very much like a house. Named it "Log Cabin Cliff." When we reached the foot of the rapid the crew of each boat jumped in, the men on shore cast off the line which the bowsmen drew in while running. In this way the "Dean's" crew brought down our own boat and also the "Canon­ita." Ran another small shallow rapid and made Camp No. 41 on left bank at 5:30 P.M. Ran 3% miles. In running the last rapid the "Nell" got a hard rap on starboard starting a plank. The "Emma" has been very fortunate so far. Has received many a thump but none hard enough to do any damage. But our turn may come next. From Camp No. 40 a small park runs on left to Nine Mile Creek, then nearly vertical walls to a mile below Camp 41. From Nine Mile Creek to a mile or more below Camp 41 a small park on right. Hills on both sides much cut by lateral canons. General character (Geologically) still Tertiary sandstone much colored by iron with an occasional stratum of clay shale, and a few bituminous shale. Our Geologists say we must soon find a bed of coal. A bed of loose rocks prevented getting the boats nearer than 20 or 30 rods of bank and we had to carry things for cooking and beds that distance. All were tired, wet and hungry and soon after supper silence reigned. General course of the river 11° east of south, Log Cabin Cliff is 2318 feet high. Triangular measurement. Friday, August 18th, 1871. Waited for pictures. Broke camp at 10:30 A.M. and immediately ran a small but very swift rapid, then fair sailing near a mile and another bad rapid. The river turns here from southwest to southeast very abruptly, divides around a small island of rocks The left-hand channel too shallow to run. The right very narrow, and swift. The current sets strong on 2 large rocks and required hard work and quick pulling to save us, but Fred and Jack were equal to the emergency. Ran another rapid, the boats all striking, but no damage done. Pulled in to right bank on a sand beach. Took out the cook's things at JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 63 11:30 A.M. and Andy began dinner. Made another line portage of rather more than Y or a mile, getting in with the last boat about 12:30 P.M. Went back for dinner, all very hungry. Started again at 2:15 P.M. Ran a short distance and struck another rapid where the river runs nearly west. Went through all right and turned short to the left, ran about half a mile through smooth water and landed at the head of the worst looking rapid we had yet run, but found it very easy. Made ^ of a mile inside of 2 minutes, and landed on left bank at head of a place where the river spreads out to more than 3^8 of a mile, is very shallow and full of rocks. Made another line portage of about a fourth of a mile, crossed the river to look at another rapid. It extended for half a mile and was full of rocks, but looked deep enough to run. Started out. "Nell" soon struck a rock. We steered to their right and went whooping, the "Canonita" following in close. They soon got off and came down and we made Camp No. 42 on left bank in a very small park covered with sagebrush, a few cedars, and 4 small cottonwoods at the head of another rapid. Landed at 5:30 P.M. Distance of 4% miles. General course 9° east of south. All wet and tired. Again lulled to sleep by the sound of a rapid above, and one below us. Saturday, August 19th, 1871. Broke camp at 7:30 A.M. Ran a rapid just after starting, then another and very shortly a third, then a half mile of smooth water. Next let down by line on right bank, each crew managing their own boat. Soon ran another rapid, and came to another place where we again let down by line through big waves. From this we found nearly a mile of smooth river. In floating along here the canon walls seem to be getting lower and below us looks like open country again. Made another line portage from left bank and stopped among the rocks on right bank for dinner at 11 A.M., at head of one of the pret­tiest falls yet seen, which we named "Chandler,"38 and gave the same name to a small creek that comes down a lateral canon opposite noon camp. The hills at noon camp are from 600 to 1000 feet. The shale entirely eroded leaving the dark red sand­stone clear to the top. Started as soon as dinner was eaten and let the "Canonita" down over the fall about ^ of a mile, where we left her tied to a rock and went back for the "Nellie," Beaman taking a view while we were in the worst of the rapid, as also one of the "Emma" which shortly followed. The water falls here about 10 feet in 20 rods. Pulled out from there, ran a short dis­tance and stopped to get a view of the canon of Chandler Creek. While here we discovered a natural bridge of rock spanning a gorge at the height of some 2000 feet. We estimated the bridge ^Chandler was the maiden name of the wife of J. F. Steward, assistant geologist of die expedition. 64 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY to be about 200 feet long, and 100 feet high. Left the Photo­graphers' things to get a view in the morning and crossed the river and made Camp 43 on right bank at 3:30 P.M., having ran 5% miles. Camp was under a cliff on a sand bank at the head of another rapid. Prof., Steward, and self went down through a small valley about 2 miles. Found the hills separated by larger canons, but could see no end of them. Climbed a small mountain from which we could see the river some 2 miles farther. Counted 8 rapids; through 3 at least the boats must be let by line. The setting sun, or rather his sinking behind the hills warned us of the approach of night and we returned to camp, killing a rattle­snake on the way, to find supper ready to which we did ample justice. We had a description in the evening on the manner of making and the power of the Stereoscope. Bishop and Clem spent their time with a game of chess. For some unaccountable reason I could not sleep. Until long past low 12 my thoughts were busy. Tried to walk myself sleepy, paced the sand beach a long time. Sunday, August 20th, 1871. Bishop and Clem crossed the river to get a view of the natural bridge in the rays of the morning sun. Took the "Nellie" and "Emma" across the stream, let down by line about Y °f a mile, then ran a rapid and made Camp No. 44 on right bank at head of another rapid. Commenced the day by reading a chapter in my testament, the only reminder of civilization, and the day. Camp was on another sand bank but there were a few cottonwood trees, under the shade of which we spent the day. Made % of a mile. Monday, August 21st, 1871. Broke Camp No. 44 at 7:40 A.M. Had smooth water for about Y or a mile, then ran a shallow rapid where all the boats struck, the crews of the "Nellie" and "Emma" wading. The "Canonita" ran bumping along, the men all in the boat, which caused Beaman and Thomp­son some words. From there let down by lines most of the way for half a mile. Then ran another rapid within a half mile, then smooth water another half [mile] which brought us to another line portage and soon another. After this another, then pulled Y of a mile, then another line portage when we stopped for dinner on left bank at 11:15 A.M. at the middle of a rapid. Waited for pictures until 4 P.M., during which time went down the river a mile or more. Ran 3 rapids in quick succession, then 2 more, then let down by line J4 of a mile, then ran another rapid, and made Camp No. 45 on right bank at foot of last rapid, and head of another. The hills on this day's run were more broken. Large, almost vertical cliffs rise isolated, separated by large, deep canons, while along the river are small valleys from Y t o Y m^ e wide, covered with sagebrush, cactus, small cedars, and an occasional hackberry, and some cottonwood trees. Prof, and self, as usual, JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 65 went down the river. Found plenty of sand, any quantity of rocks, and rapids. All slept on the sand. Wet, tired, and hungry. Made 6% miles. Tuesday, August 22nd. Started 7:50 A.M. and described a quadrant for half a mile running almost a continuous rapid. Going at the rate of 20 miles an hour. Shortly made a line portage for nearly Y or a mile, then ran a beautiful rapid where the whole volume of water of the river sweeps through a channel not more than 75 feet wide, the waves 4 or 5 feet high; ran into an eddy and let down again by line, then ran through smooth water Y of a mile, then let down by line and ran a short distance and once more let down by line over a big rapid full of big rocks where all hands were required to manage one boat and stopped for dinner on left bank at 11:50 A.M. In center of the last rapid a small clear creek comes in on left. At the head of the first portage Bishop broke an oar. While waiting for dinner, Thompson and I again went down the river. The valley widens here and quite a number of cottonwood trees grow on both banks. After going down about % of a mile saw where the mountains broke down on the right and soon saw an animal moving which we decided to be a horse. Being on the opposite side of the river we could not approach near enough to ascertain for certain. Returned for dinner, then buckled on our revolvers, took a field glass and again went down the river as far as possible. Found the animal to be a horse, but could see no sign of a camp. Went back, and, as soon as Beaman finished taking a view, pulled out into a big rapid. The "Nellie" in lead struck several times, but landed safely below. We following struck a big rock turned half way round and hung. The boys jumped into the water; Prof, and Bishop ran up the bank; we threw the line ashore pushed off and came in all right, receiving no injury. Fred and Jack did nobly and the blame of striking, if any exists, must rest on me. The "Canonita" came through safe but hitting several times. Started again, ran another rapid, a short distance below which the boys caught sight of the horse, and we pulled in on right bank; went ashore and tried to get up to him but could not. However got near enough to find that he was branded on both hips and was very lame. Had undoubtedly been turned out by the Indians, as the remains of some wickiups were near. Here we saw that the canon walls were very much broken. Not more than 400 or 500 [feet] high on the river. A very great change also Geologically. The rocks through which we had been passing were red sandstone for the last 20 or 30 miles, very little shale, and no fossils; here the clay shale again appears and a great many fresh water shells, indicating that the strata up the river were formed in agitated water, while these were deposited in comparatively still. Made a small collec­tion, then ran a rapid and made Camp No. 46 on right bank in a 66 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY small valley among some cottonwoods at head of another bad rapid. Ran 5J4 miles. Wednesday, August 23rd. As soon as breakfast was over Steward started for specimens, Thompson and I to climb out. Do not know what the rest did. Went up the small hills, in passing over which we found some curious specimens of erosion. In one spot the clay shale impregnated with alkali was covered with loose dark sandstone which looked like they had been laid up in order by the hand of man. A short distance above that came to a spot where the sandstone had been all eroded except some rocks that formed monuments resting on the shale. One in particular we estimated to weigh 100 tons was 50 to 60 feet in diameter, and 40 or 50 feet high, resting on a pedestal of clay shale and conglo­merate rock 30 or 40 feet high and not more than 10 feet in diameter. The soft shale is rapidly weathering, and soon the hard rock must fall, and go tumbling into the gorge below. The moun­tains rise in sharp crags, and we walked about 4 miles before finding one we could climb. Then went up a very steep bank sometimes over almost perpendicular rocks until we reached the height of 1500 feet. Above us rose vertical cliffs for 500 or 600 feet that it was impossible to scale. Took observations on several points, and viewed as desolate a country as my eyes ever beheld. Along the river are some trees, but on the hills which run trans­versely across the river which has cut through them, is very little vegetation. We found that at Camp 46 the plateau drops suddenly from about 2500 feet to about 1500 feet. Returned down the canon bed of a dry creek, that has cut its way down the lime­stone which is curiously worn and much colored with iron. Got into camp just as the boys had finished their dinner, ate ours, loaded the boats and let down over the rapid, which Beaman called "Sharp Mountain Fall," and waited for Beaman and Clem to come down the hill where they were taking some pictures. While letting the boats down a thunder storm burst in the mountains above us, a very little reaching us. While waiting Steward discovered a salt spring and procured some specimens of pure salt. Started again at 4 P.M., ran through smooth water for some distance finding quite an island on the right, and ran the first part of a rapid. Toward the lower end the river divided into 3 channels and we pulled into shore very quick. Decided to run the rest of the rapid and the "Nellie" started out getting aground in the middle channel and the men out. After getting below, Thompson signalled me to take the right-hand channel. Did so but as soon as we struck the waves felt sure that we must hit a big tree that had lodged in the stream. Told the boys to pull and they did all that was possible; felt the boat jump at every stroke but the current was too strong and in less than one tenth the time it takes to write it we struck, breaking off our JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 67 bow starboard row-lock like a pipe stem and catching on the center cabin. Fred's oar went down stream and was picked up by Bishop. We hung until Jack took the row-lock out at his oar, then we dropped down and held on to the limbs of the tree until he replaced it, then ran the rest of the rapid with one pair of oars, as also another [rapid] and made the distance into camp about \Y miles in the same way. Made Camp No. 47 on left bank in a small valley; no trees. Small hills on right rising back from the river. Stopped at 5:15 P.M., having run 3 miles. While Jack was cutting willows for a bed he came near taking hold of a yellow rattlesnake which we killed and found he had 9 rattles. Fixed a hole pin in 3 of our broken row-locks and felt as good as new. Thursday, August 24th, 1871. Broke Camp No. 47 at 7:30 A.M. and ran half a mile through smooth water. Then a small rapid, then smooth water for 2 miles which brought us to a sharp turn in the river to the left, where we were obliged to make land among big rocks very quickly to prevent being carried over a big rapid. The wall on the left was vertical and a number of big rocks had fallen in, making it impossible to let down on that side, so we pulled across and held on to our boats through a narrow, shallow channel. A small creek comes in on right near center of the rapid. Started again and ran a rapid where we were obliged to make very quick turns run in a serpentine course to avoid the sunken rocks. Pass 2 small rapids then nearly 2 miles of smooth river, in which we saw several otters swimming. A good many shots were wasted but no game. In running along here we first noticed seams of coal, and upon turning a corner where we stopped to examine another rapid found a quantity of fossil remains of oysters and other shells, as also coal. Steward collected fossils while we let the boats down over the rapid, killing a rattlesnake on the rocks. The presence of coal and the great change in the face of the country induced us to make the end of the Canon of Desolation at the break mentioned on the 22nd, and call this "Coal Canon."39 From here ran 2 rapids and stopped for dinner on right bank under one lone cottonwood among the rocks, close under the cliff. Nearly vertical walls on both sides 400 to 600 feet high, composed of thinly bedded sandstone and considerable shale. Started at 2:15 P.M., ran a bad rapid then smooth water for a mile, then another long rapid, and shortly came to a place where we let down a quarter of a mile by line. The canon walls were very steep and the water had been high so see no other way we could have passed but by climbing the "The deep narrow gorge diat begins at the foot of Desolation Canyon, cuts dirough the Tavaputs Plateau, and terminates abruptly in die Book Cliffs, is generally known as Gray Canyon. Because of the numerous beds of bituminous coal exposed in its walls, die name Coal Canyon is also in use. 68 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY wall; then the last man must swim. From here ran a very pretty rapid, the water at the head as smooth as glass then breaking into small waves, very swift, but no rocks. Then ran the worst rapid since entering the Canon of Desolation. After this ran 3 rapids in going 2 miles and made Camp No. 48 on right bank on the sand. Not a tree within reach. A lateral canon, a very narrow [one], and [with] steep sides comes in just above camp. Passed a number of railroad ties, and some of the boys picked up a piece of bridge plank with some spikes driven into it. Ran 12 miles. Friday, August 25th. This morning Prof., Bishop and myself climbed out up the canon above camp, getting 2000 feet high and 2 miles, back in an hour and a quarter. Some of the time our only path was up the vertical walls, holding on to the sharp corners of the rocks. Found the country much the same as at our last climb. The plateau some 1500 or 2000 feet above the river, very much broken by canons. The hills composed of sandstone, clay shale and an occasional [stratum ?] of bituminous shale, or coal. Made all the haste possible in order to get away from camp. Got in a few minutes past 11, dinner was soon over, and we broke Camp No. 48 at 12:15 P.M. and soon struck a rapid only half a mile long. Then made a line portage and soon another and shortly ran another rapid, then 4 more and came to the channel, there being no water, at 3:15 P.M. Made Camp No. 49 on right on the sand and mud in the channel of the White [Price River]." Ran 5Y miles. Thompson and self went up the valley about 2 miles. Wanted Bishop to go but he said he had enough in the morning. Found the general course of the river to be nearly northwest. Some water in pools about a mile up the bed. A valley from Y to ^ of a mile wide surrounded by curious buttes of sandstone. The valley can be entered some 8 or 10 miles back, and Indians frequently come down to fish and hunt. The name of "Castle Valley" is given to this. Saw the coal seams at the height of 1500 feet that were near the surface, some 12 miles back, show­ing that the river runs down [descends] that much. Back to camp near night and turned in on the sand soon after. Saturday, August 26th, 1871. Broke Camp No. 49 at 7:15 A.M. and immediately ran a shallow, swift rapid near half a mile long, then 3 more in going 2 miles and came to the narrowest spot yet found in the river. The whole body of water pours through a channel not more than 30 feet wide. The bed is full of rocks but the water so deep there is not much danger of strik­ing. The "Nellie" ran through safe, but running through the "The present Price River was known to trappers and otiier early travelers as Little White River. It was renamed after Mormon colonizers in 1879 settled the town of Price-named for William Price, who examined diis region for the L. D. S. Church in 1865. JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 69 largest waves shipped a good deal of water. The "Emma" fol­lowed, only getting one wave and that small. Next the "Canonita" shipping considerable water. After this ran 4 rapids and came to a long shallow full of rocks where we waded beside the boats near half a mile. Passed an island on left, at head of this let down. Ran about half a mile to end of the canon and made Camp No. 50 on left bank at 11:40 A.M., having run oY miles. After dinner we loaded the boats and pulled them up on the sand beach to dry and calk, all leaking bad. The afternoon was spent in fixing things up, most of the men being nearly barefoot, and clothing badly dilapidated. Thompson and self went down the river about 2 miles. It seems to run through a valley, small hills on each side rising into singular isolated buttes farther back. From the singular shape of the hills this is called "Castle Valley," the same reaching to the northwest on to the Little White. A very irregular hill rises nearly opposite camp. The elements have eroded all the upper strata of rocks, except in one spot, leaving the hill nearly square, the highest point resembling the steeple of a church. On one corner [Gunnison Butte] stands a lone rock, which can easily be imagined to be a chimney. The height of the main hill is about 1000 feet; of the steeple about 1500 ft. (estimated). Suppose the entire length to be 2500 feet. Its width about 1000. We named it "Cathedral Butte." Imagined we could see far down the river, the chain of mountains that mark the entrance to the next canon. We will remain here until the 3rd of September unless sooner joined by Major Powell." If he is successful in finding a prac­ticable route for the team in to the mouth of the Dirty Devil he will be here by that time, if not we will run as rapidly as possible until we meet him or reach the Paria River, our winter station. From the mouth of the Uintah River to the head of Desolation Canon is 36 miles. After the first 10 miles but little vegetation. The general level of the country from 300 to 500 feet above the river. Is a plateau, treeless and flowerless, much broken by gulches. Desolation Canon is 5&Y miles long, has rapids and 3 falls. We ran [ ] of them and [let] down over [ ]. Coal Canon is 2 8 ^ miles long has [ ] of which we ran [ ] and let down over [ ]. The whole country from the hills above Desolation Canon is very desolate, and perfectly worthless. Total distance from mouth of Uintah to end of Coal Canon 122% miles. Total number of rapids run 86. Number of line portages 32. Number of falls which "•The camp occupied by die expedition August 26-September 1 was a few miles above the crossing used by William Wolf skill in 1830-31, by Captain J. W. Gunnison in 1853, and by die pioneers who explored the region about Moab in 1855. Near die crossing die setdement of Greenriver was founded (1878) and became a relay mail station and a stopover place for travelers between Utah and Colorado. The crossing was bridged by die Denver and Rio Grande Western Railroad in 1882 and some years later a bridge suitable for wagons was constructed-now part of die much used highway U. S. 50. 70 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY we named 3. Total number of rapids 118. Height of Cathedral Butte 1211 feet, triangular measurement. Sunday, August 27th. The day spent in camp by most of the party resting. Thompson and Steward went down the river to the old Spanish trail, or Gunnison's Crossing, some 5 miles. Saw plenty of signs, but no Indians. We are camped just below the last line portage made and still hear its roar. Have not been out of the sound of rapids for more than 2 weeks. The "Gen­eral" has called supper. His kitchen and dining room are in one, underneath the branches of an old cottonwood. After Supper. The sun has disappeared behind the western hills. Some of the boys are singing, some talking and some fixing their beds. Soon "gentle slumber will o'er us steal" and the silence be unbroken save by the night bird, or prowling coyote. Monday, August 28th. All hands at work on the boats for an hour or two. Then I fixed a wickiup for Fred, Jack and myself. Bishop did the same yesterday. Have been at work copying notes and duplicating map all day." My crew is calking and pitching the seams of our boat. Launched the boats in the afternoon. While employed on them this morning Beaman took a picture showing them, and also Cathedral Butte. Named it (picture) "End of Desolation." "On the stocks for repairs." Tuesday, August 29th, 1871. The morning was put in work in camp. Shortly after dinner, while I was taking an observation for time we heard 3 shots in quick succession down the river, "our signal." We answered them and shortly after saw 2 men on horseback on the right bank. Quickly pulled 2 boats across the stream, and soon greeted Major Powell." With him was Fred Hamblin, a Mormon from Kanab. After rowing over to camp T o obviate the loss of die maps-die most valuable product of die expedi­tion- copies were carried by different men in different boats. The running ac­counts were also substantially duplicated in various diaries. "The Major here resumes his sketchy journal, but not very communica­tively. He dismisses events of die preceding six weeks as follows: "Left two boats, the 'Nell' and 'Canonita' in Island Park and party in charge of Thomp­son on July 7. Arrived on Green River at foot of Gunnison's Butte Aug. 29, 1871, and joined party again." The usually quiet-tempered Almon Harris Thompson comments in his own journal: It seems as near as I can make out, that Mr. Hamblin was not joined by Captain Dodds, and has gone to Kanab, whether to fit up to come to the Dirty Devil or not, no one knows. I cannot learn that die Major made any serious effort to get in and do not believe he did. Mr. Hamblin probably made a slight effort to rush die Dirty Devil or some such attempt. It seems tiiat he (the Major) concluded to go to Salt Lake, so took die stage. Went up, stayed diree days, and tiien back to Manti. Bought a few supplies and came in. I do not care a cuss whether he comes with us or not on the river, but it makes one mad to wait and then have him come in and report a failure. We shall have some time, I see, before we get through; but "die Devil"-I knew how tilings would be before starting, so ought not to grumble. JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 71 and they had dinner, he gave a short account of his travels. Found that it would be [a] very difficult matter to reach the mouth of the Dirty Devil with rations, so returned to Manti, a Mormon town among the mountains some hundred miles west of here; bought some rations, hired this man Hamblin and his nephew Lyman to come to the river with a pack train, sent word to Jacob Hamblin to meet us at the Ute trail, sometimes called the "Cross­ing of the Fathers," about a hundred miles below the Dirty Devil, himself went to Salt Lake for our mail, leaving there the 20th and reaching the river some 4 miles below us this morning. Decided to break camp and drop down to that point. I crossed the river, took the horses and rode over the hills 5 or 6 miles find­ing their camp in charge of young Hamblin. Soon got acquainted and received my letters, 4 in number, 2 from Lacon of July 24th and 29th, one from Washburn of August 16th, and one from Evansville of July 18th. While reading them the boats came in sight and soon landed on right bank making Camp No. 51 about 6 P.M. Ran AY miles getting aground twice. The boys hardly waited to fasten the boats before rushing up the bank for their letters and for the next hour were busy with news from friends. A few papers came, but none containing letters from our party. Camp was near Gunnison's Crossing." Small round hills of shale close back of it; on the opposite side of the valley reaches 2 miles or more, flanked by curiously molded Tertiary buttes. The river is very low and we will undoubtedly have much hard work before reaching winter quarters some 200 miles distant. Again we sat "Captain J. W. Gunnison's party, exploring Pacific railroad routes, crossed the Green River here October 1, 1853. Lieutenant E. G. Beckwidi writes in die official report: We crossed the river by an excellent ford, which we had observed die Indians crossing, from a few yards below our camp (on die Spanish trail) to an island opposite, and from its upper end to die shore. The river is 300 yards wide, with a pebbly bottom, as we forded it, but widi quicksands on either side of our path. The water, rising just above die axletrees of our common wagons, flows with a strong cur­rent, and is colored by die red sandstone of the country through which it passes, having here die same red muddy character which the Colorado has far below, where it enters die Gulf of California. A fine field of blue-grass, in a grove of cotton-wood just above die ford, and die lateness of the hour, determined us to encamp for the benefit of our animals; but a recent overflow had left a fine deposit of mud on the grass, which made it unpalatable to them. Indians thronged our camp for several hours. They are die mer­riest of tiieir race I have ever seen, except the Yumas-constantly laughing and talking, and appearing grateful for the trifling presents they receive. A wrinkled, hard-faced old savage, with whom I shared my luncheon of bread and bacon, quite laughed aloud widi joy at his good fortune. * * * * (Report of Explorations and Surveys to Ascertain the Most Practicable and Economical Route for a Rail­road from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean. Washington, 1855, vol. II, p. 62.) 72 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY until late into the night, talking over events that had occurred since last we met. The Messrs. Hamblin [Lyman and Fred] will remain for a day or two and take our letters to Manti to be mailed. 'Tis past 11, & I am sleepy. Wednesday, August 30th. Spent the day in camp copying notes, plotting map, taking observations and writing letters. The rest of the party similarly employed. The Topography of this valley presents some singular features. A low range of hills is near the river, sometimes on one side, sometimes the other. Back of these are high buttes, some of them isolated, some in long sweeps, their sides weathered in very peculiar shapes. Without much stretch of the imagination one could see castles, with bastion, tower and angel. Huge blocks of buildings, churches with spire and steeple, and indeed almost anything else. Near Camp No. 50 on the right or west bank and back of Cathedral Butte rises an immense pile near or quite 1800 feet high near 6 miles long, trending for 2 or 3 miles nearly west, then sweeping to the north­west as far. This was named "Gunnison's Butte." Near it is a nearly round bell-shaped hill which Beaman photographed and called "Azure Butte." Thursday, August 31st. The day was spent in duplicating notes, &c, & writing letters to be sent out. Hamblins will remain until tomorrow. Friday, September 1st, 1871. The Hamblins left about 3 P.M. taking 42 letters written by our party. They have 100 miles to ride to reach Manti and must cross the snow-covered Wasatch range. At 3:50 P.M. we broke camp and dropped down Y or a mile, and made Camp No. 52 on left bank. At 4 P.M. Beaman and Dellenbaugh went up the river to Camp No. 50, after I saw that the crew of the "Nellie" left; not getting back until after dark. Saturday, September 2nd. Broke camp at 8 A.M., ran a small rapid immediately, then down Castle Valley, the hills at times being close to the river, then swinging back and presenting to our view a broad valley with some grass and an unlimited amount of sage and grease weed. Along the stream are many beautiful groves of cottonwoods. The river flowing in a general southerly direction but in long curves. Very shallow. Got aground several times. In the afternoon we passed a great many black hills which are probably cretaceous. Made Camp No. 53 on left bank at 5:25 P.M. in a wide valley opposite a range of these hills, having made 16^6 miles. Sunday, September 3rd. Steward, Clem, the Major and Myself crossed the river about 8 A.M., the former to examine the nearer hills; we, Major and self, to go across the country to ex­amine a long range of hills that stretched from north to south and seemed to be upheaved [San Rafael Swell]. JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 73 Took with us 3 canteens of coffee and bread and meat enough for dinner. Climbed the hills on west side of the river, descended again and followed the winding bed of a dry gulch some 2 miles, then struck across more to the west and travelled over loose, sandy soil with scarce a shrub or blade of grass. I never understood before the full meaning of the term "bare ground." Walked until after 11 o'clock, the 5 or 6 miles that seemed to intervene between camp and the range, stretching into 10 or 12. Found a place where the Tertiary had been eroded and a great quantity of [Cretacean] fossils were found consisting of Ammonites, Hamites, Austrias, 6c. We spent about 2 hours in gathering them, then sat down and tried to eat but were so warm and tired and the sun shone so hot that we did little except drink our coffee. No shade could be found, nothing but bare rocks and bare ground. Walked about 2 miles farther, obtained a good view of the vertical range. It consisted of Tertiary (probably) rocks greatly upheaved from the general level at the north, growing more and more steep until it became nearly vertical, then sloping to the south. Composed of [sic] mostly of red sandstone. To the south we marked the wind­ings of a stream, either the San Rafael River, or some one of its branches. Started for camp at half past 3 over the loose hot sand. Drank the last of our coffee about 5 P.M., and walked the rest of the way to the river without drink, reaching there at half past 6, where we drank the first water since morning. Hailed a boat, crossed the stream and tried to eat supper, but both [were] too tired. I was the nearest tired out of any night on the trip. Found that Steward and Bishop had been up the river 3 or 4 miles to where a bed of satin spar [aragonite] was exposed which we passed yesterday. They found a cave into which they went some distance bringing out specimens of stalactites and stalagmites. After an examination of the fossils found today it was determined that the beds where they were found are Cretaceous (probably). Too tired to sleep well." Monday, September 4th. Observations were taken here and worked up for latitude showing camp to be in 38° - 55' north. Broke camp at 9 A.M. and ran until 12 M. down a winding stream. Stopped on right bank under a cliff for dinner. Started at 2:15 and ran with occasional stops, until 5:25 P.M. and made Camp No. 54 on left bank in a grove just above the mouth of the San "For the Green River Valley below Greenriver, Utah, the geological ob­servations recorded by Jones and his associates in 1871 are supplemented by detailed reports and maps prepared 65 years later: For the country east of die river, by E. T. McKnight, Geology of the Area Between Green and Colorado Rivers, Grand and San Juan Counties, Utah (U. S. Geological Survey Bulletin 908, Washington, 1940); and for diat west of the river, by A A. Baker, Geology of the Green River Desert-Cataract Canyon Region. Emery, Wayne, and Garfield Counties. Utah (U. S. Geological Survey Bulletin 951, Washington, 1946). 74 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY Rafael River, at this time a stream of about 15 feet wide and 6 inches deep, the water colored nearly white by the soil through which it runs. The bank was about 15 feet high, very steep, of dark sand as was also the shore. We found abundant evidences that this is an Indian camp ground. Many wickiup poles were lying around, but have not been used for a good while. A great many pieces of flint were found of various colors and several were soon busy picking them up. They had been worked by the In­dians into arrow and lance heads. Quite a number of broken heads were found and hundreds of chips that had been broken. This was undoubtedly the home of the ancient arrow maker who made arrow head's of chalcedony. We were in the country called by natives Toom-pin-con-to-weep, meaning "stone house land." Ran 14% miles. Tuesday, September 5th. This morning Major and myself started up the San Rafael on foot. He carried one blanket, a sketch book and canteen of water. I, one blanket and Knapsack containing a loaf of bread, some dried meat, coffee & sugar, 3 cups and 2 spoons, and a field glass. We travelled slow, not wishing to repeat our experience of 2 days before; kept to the right or north of the river hills until about noon, then climbed over and down to the stream, camped under a tree in a small grass-covered valley, made some coffee, at dinner, left our camp equipment, waded the brook, climbed the cliff then a hill of bare rocks that rose in terraces to the height of more than 1000 feet. From here we could see the windings of the San Rafael from the mouth far up toward the Wasatch range [Wasatch Plateau]. Also obtained a good view of the upturned range before visited. The San Rafael runs through low canon walls in short curves, the cliffs coming to the water on one side, a narrow valley on the other. It was near sunset when we started to return and long after dark when we reached camp, where we built a fire, ate supper, spread our bed, collected a quantity of dry wood, piled it high on the blaze, lay down, went to sleep, awoke in an hour or two cold, replenished the fire, and again went to sleep. Thus passed the night. Wednesday and Thursday, September 6th and 7th. Up early, breakfast soon over, packed up and started down the stream. Reached camp about 11 A.M., found that Steward, Bishop and Clem Powell had crossed the river, the first to examine the near hills, the two last to go to a butte of red sandstone" which was estimated to be 6 or 7 miles distant but looked to me to be not nearer than 10. They took rations for dinner and a good supply "Probably refers to the conspicuous Tenmile Butte, which rises abruptly from a surface trenched by Tenmile Wash and odier canyoned streamways. The region about the butte is frequently swept by winds-in local parlance strong enough to "blow the hair off a dog." JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 75 of water. Steward came in at noon. Prof, took observations here for latitude and longitude. Places camp in [ ] north and 110° ['"?] west. As night came on we began to feel uneasy about the absent men. If they had found water there was no danger, if not they must be suffering. As it became darker we built a large fire on a point near camp to guide them if within sight, and took turns in watching and keeping fire. Beaman remained up until 11 then called me. I stayed until 2 A.M., then woke Fred who got Andy out at 3. Breakfast was ready at 5 and [as] soon as they could see, Major and Hillers crossed the river to follow the trail if pos­sible, carrying bread, meat, coffee and water. About 7 Thompson, Steward, and Fred took the "Nellie." provisions and water, dropped down the stream about a mile and started to fol­low the first party. They did this that a base of supplies might be established nearer the search. Beaman, Hattan and myself remained in camp to be ready for an emergency and also to take some observations if the clouds should lift. About 9 A.M. we heard signal shots down the river, and shortly Fred came in and reported that his party saw from a hill that Major and Jack had met the boys; that they returned to the river. Thompson & Steward went down stream to where they supposed they would meet the wanderers, sent Fred back to help us with word that if nothing further was heard to load up and go down stream. Shortly after, it began raining and we were soon thoroughly wet. About 11 A.M. it ceased sufficient for us to pack up and away we went. Beaman and Hattan with the "Canonita." Fred and self with the "Dean." Ran about 2 miles in the rain, found the rest of the party on left bank beside the cliff wall, pulled in, got dinner and started again at 2:15 P.M. through the rain. The rock walls during the after­noon were vertical from 50 to 400 feet high. When one side of the stream had vertical walls the other would be in rounded hills, both of bare sandstone. As soon as sufficient water had accumu­lated above, it began pouring over the wall into the river. Some­times the streams were colored with red sand, sometimes quite clear. Made Camp No. 55 at 4:45 P.M. on left bank. Ran 6% miles. Bank quite steep of white and red sand, at camp opposite a vertical cliff wall 300 feet high, scarcely broken by a seam. Con­tinued raining until far into the night. We counted 11 cascades falling over the cliff opposite at one time. This was the first rainy day of the trip. Indeed the only one that could be called so since leaving Illinois. We had seen a few small oak trees farther up the river, here we found quite a grove of them. Cut some poles, pitched 3 tents, built a fire in front of each, brought up a good supply of dry oak wood, spread our beds, crept into the tents and spent a pleasant evening, the rain pattering on the roof. Bishop and Clem gave me an account of their trip. Found the distance much farther than they anticipated. When they reached the 76 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY summit of the butte it was 4 P.M. They had eaten their rations, drank the coffee and the water taken from the river. Fortunately they found water pockets and obtained a supply of Aqua Pura, or their sufferings from thirst would have been intense. When they started down expected to reach camp sometime during the night, but the sky was overcast with clouds, the way rough and danger­ous and about 9 o'clock they gave up and decided to spend the night. They claimed that the wind blew so strong they dare not build a fire, so gathering a few bushes for a bed they lay down supperless and without blankets to pass a miserable night. Started at daybreak, met Major and Jack, ate their breakfast or supper or both and struck for the nearest point on the river. [September 8th.] Labyrinth Canon begins just below the mouth of the San Rafael River. The Indians call this "Camp Oak." Beaman went up the river and took some views of a lateral canon on the other side of the stream. From the fact of it being divided into three parts he called the pictures "Trin Alcove" from across the river. While he was at this a number of us climbed the rocks back of camp." Had a splendid view. Could see the mountains of Desolation Canon and most of the buttes in the valley [probably Book Cliffs and the ridges and Tavaputs Plateau]. The river makes here a big bend nearly running back upon itself. The Major sent for Beaman to take up his instruments to get the view up the river. Decided not to break camp until after dinner. Called the bend "Trin Alcove Bend." After dinner Major and Prof, crossed the river to see Trin Alcove and soon sent back for the photographer. Most of the party went over to the gorge. Had too much to do to leave camp. Did not break camp. About dark clouds overcast the sky. The lightning flashed and the "The Major writes: Climb naked rocks in front of bend. In every direction as far as we have seen for the past two or three days naked rocks prevail. Buttes are seen scattered on die landscape, now rounded into cones, now carved out with alcoves and sunken recesses and pockets. All varying from orange to dark brown often stained black. Curious arches, too, are seen on the vertical walls of die canon. From die rounded rocks of this point widi pockets filled by yesterday's rain we look off on a fine stretch of river and over die naked rocks and buttes, to the Blue Cliffs and die Brown Cliffs beyond and above with cumuli piled over all. After dinner Thompson and I explore the recesses of Trin Alcove. The left one is an amphidieater turning to left and up widi overhang­ing shelves and then turning as you look up to the right where there is a series of water basins; from these the water comes down into die basin at the bottom of the cave. Huge rocks lie piled up below and on the right the rocks arch overhead. The middle cove is a beautiful glen with verdure spread and trees scattered here and diere. The right cove is a narrow winding gorge often witii overhanging walls and mighty domes almost shutting out the light. (See pictures.) This canon had many oaks along the base of the walls. JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 77 reverberations of the thunder echoed among the cliffs and along the canon walls. ,We rolled out of bed and again pitched OUT tents, but not before the blankets were wet. Rained most of the night. A storm in the canons! who can describe it? I can not. The pouring of the rain, the crash of the thunder, the brilliant flash of the lightning, the rush of the river, and above all else sound of innumerable cascades falling over the vertical walls. Cut down to half rations of sugar. Saving beans and apples for portages. Saturday, Sept. 9th. Broke camp at 8:45 A.M., the "Dean" starting sometime in advance in order to stop and examine a lateral canon that comes in on the left about a mile below camp. This bend of the river we called the first bow of the double knot. Ran until 11:30 A.M., the last half hour in the rain and stopped under the edge of the cliff among large rocks, a very steep bank, for dinner. Stopped raining, and we started again at 2:15 P.M. The river wide, still, and very shallow. Toward night the rain came down again, but soon the sun shone bright and looking to the east we were running nearly west. One of the most beautiful rainbows I ever saw met our gaze, seeming to span just the width of the canon, its foot apparently resting upon the rocks, its arch but little, if any higher than the canon walls. While looking at this grand sight all the boats ran onto the sand bar. All were obliged to get out; the two boats in the rear were easily backed off, but the "Dean" was on so far that we thought it best to go ahead. The water grew more shallow until at last it was not more than 2 or 3 inches deep. The boat sunk into the sand and all were required to push her over the bar. As we got afloat and the rest of the boys started to return to [sic] the scene was weird indeed. The sun shone brightly while just below it was a huge bank of black clouds, the rain falling in large drops; the bow still spanned the canon, and the men barelegged, each with a rubber on, looked not unlike a procession of monks of the olden time. Soon after this we turned almost east, ran about 2 miles and made Camp No. 56 on right bank on the sand. Back of the camp was a steep bank with some willows, and a few scrub oaks. Back of this the cliff was broken down from 400 to 200 feet, and the river making a great bend almost doubles upon itself. We could see the canon wall on the other side. Ran 15% miles. Some rain in night. Sunday, September 10th, 1871. We carried the instruments of the Photographer up the broken wall back of camp where the river could be seen on both sides; left Beaman to take pictures, and broke camp at 10:45 A.M.; made a circle of 5 miles, came back within % of a mile of last night's camp, made Camp No. 57 on left bank at 12:20 P.M. The sharp point on which Beaman stood was so narrow that we could easily talk to him from camp in the morning, and also here. We called this the last bow of the 78 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY double knot. Sent a boat after Beaman, and while climbing the wall Steward found in a thin stratum of limestone about 100 feet above the river, some Con-chi-fers, and fossils' teeth, probably of fish. This discovery assisted in placing the rocks of the canon among the Triassic. The walls of the canon today have been nearly vertical on one side, from 500 to 800 feet high, on the other rounded into hills of red rock, or eroded into sharp pinnacles or round towers. At short distances lateral canons enter in which are Amphitheaters, grottoes and alcoves. The prevailing color of the rock dark red, above this white sandstone, very friable, many of the rocks crumbling beneath the step. In many places this is entirely eroded. After dinner. Prof, and myself went down the river about half a mile and climbed out up a steep gorge. For 400 or 500 feet we went over loose earth over which were strewn huge boulders; among these grew many shrubs and bushes most of them unknown, then up the steep rock, finding it work[ed ?] full of holes by the water that rushes down after every rain. In these we could put our hands and feet, and stand up a hundred feet or more into a huge dish hollowed partly out of the red and partly out of the white sandstone. Leaving this we went over a nar­row ledge and came to a high rock that seemed to bar further progress. Prof, tried to climb but the rock was too high. Then I made the attempt and succeeded in reaching a narrow shelf, lay down, took my revolver belt, dropped one end to him and pulled him up. The rest of the ascent was quite easy. The plateau stretched for miles in all directions, broken by gullies and an occasional round topped hill or square butte was elevated above the general level. Beginning at the north we could see Gunnison's Butte, Cathedral Butte, the mountains of Desolation Canon, and the hills of Castle Valley, the butte Bishop and Powell visited on the 6th and which they named "Lilly Butte," the Sierra La Sal, or salt mountains, the cliffs supposed to mark the canon of the Grand, a high mountain far down the Colorado & the volcanic mountain [Henry Mountains] and vertical upheaval seen by the Major and I from up the San Rafael. This swept the horizon around the circle to the right and was the most extended view we have yet had. Prof, remarked that if he were able and had time would like to write a description of the scene. Reached camp at sunset. Bishop had measured the cliff back of camp and gave its height as 836 feet. A very heavy dew and cold. Ran 5% miles." Monday, September 11th. Started at 8:25 A.M. and ran until 11:30 A.M. with an occasional halt to examine the rocks, T h e geographic and geologic features of die Green River canyons below the mouth of the San Rafael, including the famous Bow Knot, Horseshoe, and Bonito bends, are more fully described by Thompson, and in recent years have been studied in detail by members of the U. S. Geological Survey. JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 79 which were mostly red sandstone with an occasional stratum of conglomerate limestone in their beds, and toward noon a few beds of blue clay shale. The canon presented a great number of fine views and at dinner camp some of them were photographed. Called it "Tower Park." On the left bank the ridges were broken into almost isolated buttes with vertical summits of red rock and steep banks of debris. The water of the river so thick with sand and mud we could scarcely drink it. Dug holes in the bank in which would collect some tolerably clear water; from these we filled our canteens to use during the day. Started at 2:45 P.M. About 3:30 stopped to take pictures. While at this the rain began to fall and continued until dark. Got fast on sand bars several times during the day. Hills farther back from the river. Made Camp No. 58 on left bank at 6 P.M. Bank very steep of red sand 8 or 10 feet high, then a thick growth of willows and large round grass, then a valley covered with sage, grease wood, a few small cottonwood trees and one lone large one that had been cut down and trimmed by the beavers, and which furnished us fuel for 2 fires, around one of which we pitched our tents and dried our clothing; the other was used by the cook. Ate supper about 8 o'clock, turned in and soon forgot our troubles in sleep. Ran 1 5YL miles. Called our camp "Labyrinth Valley." Tuesday, September 12th." Up before daylight. Helped Andy get wood and breakfast, then wrote up my notes. Broke camp at 7:40 A.M. and ran over a smooth river still winding in long curves until about 11 o'clock, stopped to get a picture of 2 buttes that rose above the general level of the plateau. From our position they seemed to be joined in the form of a Greek cross. Made a splendid view. Dropped down about half a mile and made noon camp on right bank near the mouth of a small creek whose waters were very red [Barrie Creek]. "The Major's journal entry for this day reads: Came on to head of Stillwater Canon, climbed out and took pic­tures, then run down (after dinner) to Old River Bed. The view from bluff was very grand. The river winding its way through the rocks to the S. E. with overhanging walls. Naked ter­races widi sharp salients and deep retreating angles. Orange and deep red Buttes standing on the terraces columned above buttressed and fluted below, some set widi pinnacles and towers. Beyond die Buttes to the S. E. the Rock Forest and beyond the "forest" die mts. Everywhere naked solid rock or naked talus. From noon camp one of these buttes stood in front of another so as to seem one with it and present die shape of a huge cross so we named it the Cross. This canon has many drooping willow trees along the river. After dinner ran down to Old River Bed and took more pictures; found curious plants hanging from the rock in die angle formed by die gray and red homogenous beds as I found diem two years before. The Rock standing in die center of the old curve is about Y$ mile long. Have a beautiful view of the curve of River. 80 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY The river bank steep and covered with a dense growth of willows. Back of this a small valley and sagebrush. No wood except these. Back of the valley were the white rocks in which were a number of water pockets, full from the recent rains. Jack climbed up and brought clear water enough for dinner, the river so dirty that the water could only be used by shutting the eyes and going it blind. The crew of the "Nellie" and the Major crossed the river where we stopped for pictures and climbed the foot hills, coming in just as dinner was ready. After dinner we took the "Emma" with Beaman and Clem, leaving Jack to come with Hattan; ran down a mile and carried the instruments about as far-to the top of a round hill of buff earth from where 6 pic­tures were taken. Just above noon camp we decided to end Labyrinth Canon and a short distance below where the river cuts through the plateau of white sandstone, making nearly verti­cal walls from 50 to 75 feet, to begin another not named yet [Stillwater Canyon].60 While waiting for pictures tried to write a short description of the scene before me, which is among my notes. The Major returned to the river, took our boat and went ahead taking Thompson and leaving me to come with the "Nellie." Started about 5 P.M. and at 6 found camp on right bank at the foot of a valley on the rock. About Y m' l e above here the river has cut through the narrow wall and made a new channel, leaving a valley on the right, through which the old channel could be easily traced. A long narrow butte of white sandstone yet re­mained in the center of the valley around which the river once ran. The stream turns almost due east for a short distance and leaves a round valley on the left in through which is the rest of the white ridge that the stream has separated. Cannot describe these valleys and will depend upon the pictures taken to show their beauty. A sloping bank rose back of camp 200 or 300 feet, then a vertical wall nearly as high, along whose base grew many strange plants and flowers. From this wall hung pendant plants of a species unknown to me. Humming birds flitted around. Just here the fire burned low and this closes the record. Ran \0Y miles. Wednesday, September 13th. Waited for pictures and got some fine ones; called one the "Old Channel" of the river, the other "The New." Broke camp at 11:50 A.M. and pulled steadily until 12:25 P.M. River wide and smooth. Generally vertical walls of white sandstone from 50 to 250 feet high. Back of this buttes of red sandstone. Several small valleys on each side of the river "On maps prepared by the 1871 Powell expedition, "Stillwater Canyon," bordered by the "Orange Cliffs," extends from Bonito Bend to die mouth of the Green River. This accords with present usage. As shown on modern maps, Labyrintii Canyon extends from die mouth of the San Rafael to Bonito Bend. JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 81 with cottonwood and a few oak trees. Made noon camp on right bank. Cooked dinner in the shade of a large rock with sticks of driftwood picked up on the rocks. While eating heard the barking of a wolf, the first sound of animal life, except geese and ducks, heard since leaving the foot of Gray Canon-the name given to the lower end of Desolation. Pulled out at 2:15 P.M., ran about a mile and a half and stopped to see if we could climb out at a small gorge on the left. Went up the ledge near the river, saw that the gorge widened into a small valley running back 2 miles or more, getting higher until it ended in the mountains. While Beaman took some pictures the Major and Prof, tried to climb out. Only succeeded in getting on to the second terrace; came back, and, as soon as the pictures were taken, we went ahead. The canon walls grew higher, still continued nearly vertical from 300 to 500 feet; then terrace, another vertical wall, and from noon camp a third terrace and cliff-an occasional small valley on either side, then steep walls. We made Camp No. 60 on right bank at 6 P.M. among the rocks; gathered driftwood for fires and spread our beds under the cliff on a small grassy spot. We were still running up the dip, down the strata and at camp found Carboniferous rocks containing fine specimens of Coal measure, and other fossils. On the steep walls were incrustations of salt that evidently must have percolated through the rocks from the Triassic above. The red homogeneous sandstone had almost entirely disappeared by erosion and we were fast losing the gray. Ran 12% miles. This was Fred's 18th birthday. He had prom­ised to make a cake in honor of the occasion but we ran so late that the expected treat was indefinitely postponed. Thursday, September 14th. Found a rich bed of fossils and decided to remain until afternoon. Spent the entire morning on my map as also did Bishop. Beaman and Clem took the "Canon­ita," went down stream about half a mile to take pictures of the canon walls. Major, Prof, and Jack went up the stream with the "Dean" to examine the rocks. The water has been very smooth since leaving the valley at the foot of Gray Canon. We ran the entire length of Labyrinth Canon and so far in this, finding nothing to stop us but sand bars. Can find no place to climb out, and, from the formation, except none this side the junction of the Grand and Green, the commencement of the Colorado, distant we think, about 12 miles. The fossils found were such as had lived in salt water. Dinner on the rocks, when we started at 1:25 P.M., but only ran about a mile when we saw the ledge among which the fossils were found exposed, and halted while the Geologists with hammers in hand made the walls echo. Ran a short distance farther and stopped again to measure the walls of the canon. Found them to be 1130 feet, measured from a sand bar in the middle of the river. Went ahead again until 82 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY 4:30 P.M., when we made Camp No. 61 on right bank in the mouth of a gulch which we tried to climb but failed. Tried another a short distance farther up the river and concluded to try it in the morning. While looking along the ledge one of the boys found a small house much resembling a dog kennel. He announced the discovery and most of us went up. Found a small hut or den built under a cliff. It was about 5 feet long by 3 wide and as many high. Near was another about half as large. Fred took up his sketch book and made a drawing of them. Beaman found a corn cob which was carefully preserved. When the Major & Prof, returned they reported more ruins in the cliffs farther around and also brought some specimens of pottery found in fragments. These relics it was decided were left by the Chi-ne-mosa who once occupied the country adjacent from which they were driven by the savage tribes. They then took refuge along the Green and Colorado rivers; were driven again, and the feeble remnant of this once powerful people now occupy a few small towns in Arizona, and are known as Moquis [Hopis]. They are descendants of the same race as the Aztecs who had possession of Mexico at the time of the Spanish conquest. Ran 4% miles. Friday, September 15th. The "Nell" started early to enable Thompson to reach the junction of the Grand and Green in time for observations. Soon after breakfast Major, Jack, Andy, and myself started to climb out. Fred and Clem hunted around the rocks for relics, and Beaman finished up his negatives. While looking along the ledges, occasionally finding some fossils, Andy discovered a cache under a huge rock. Carefully removing the loose dirt we found a round stone kettle of 4 or 5 gallon size covered with a flat rock. It contained several bundles of split willows tied with cord made from the wild flax, and had evidently been undisturbed since the people to whom it belonged had lived here. The Major recognized the kettle as the work of the Chi-ne- mos and the willows as the material from which they make Pe-too or Bread trays. This definitely settled the question of the nationality of the former inhabitants. Leaving the kettle where we could find it on our return we went ahead. After climbing 500 or 600 feet farther came to a vertical wall up which I climbed by the aid of Jack's shoulders, let down a rope which one after an­other passed under their arms and by this help ascended. After another hour's hard climb reached the summit, which is a vast plateau. To the southeast and on the east side of the Colorado a vast forest of rocks arose in pinnacles. Andy declared at first nShinumos, a Hop! name for themselves, which Powell translated as "We, the Wise," and applied briefly to Pueblo remains. Powell had visited the Hopi towns in 1870. See his account in his "The Ancient Province of Tusayan," Scribner's Monthly, vol. XI, December, 1875. JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 83 that it was a forest of timber. Named it Rock Forest.58 After gazing at the scenery and taking some observations descended, passing over the steep ledge by means of the rope. Reached camp near noon, got dinner, and started down stream at 1:35 P.M. Ran through canon all the way, much of the time with vertical walls from 300 to 500 feet high, then a terrace and another cliff, then another terrace and cliff; the entire height of the cliffs 1000 to 1500 feet. River very shallow. At 4 P.M. we reached the junction, found the boys in camp on the right bank of the Colorado on a sand bank that was continually falling. Back of this was a small bank on which grew a few large willows; then the mountain rose very steep, of mixed sand and limestone. The point between the Grand and Green was very steep with a narrow bank of earth on which grew a few small trees. On the east side of the Colorado a steep mountain to the water's edge. The Green [here] flows nearly east, the Grand southwest, forming the most perfect junction imaginable, and the Colorado nearly south. We were obliged to wade over the sand bar to get our boat into the waters of the latter stream. Dropped down stream about a half mile, and carried our things up to camp, except Bismark and Sandy, who preferred to sleep by the boat. Left the "Canonita" above the bar in the Green and the "Nellie" on the bar. Andy made head-quarters at the junction and we spread our beds on a sand shelf under the willows. The bank continued to fall during the night. Ran 8j/£ miles. Decided to name the canon ending here "Stillwater." Did not find a rapid in its entire length, [ ] miles. Major told me this morning of the intention to leave the "Canonita" at the mouth of the Dirty Devil until spring. Saturday, September 16th. Major, Beaman, Fred, Jack, Clem, and myself took the "Canonita," went up the Green about a mile to a deep Gulch, and climbed to the top of the plateau about 1200 feet, carrying the photographer's instruments. Steward climbed up on the same side, back of camp. We found the top to consist of gray sandstone seamed into deep cracks or chasms, some of which we could jump,58 and to avoid others were obliged T h e marvelous geologic and scenic features and die abundance of Puebloan artifacts near the mouth of the Green seemed to call for special investigation. During four days' stop the lower part of die Grand (Colorado) River and the country on all sides of die junction was explored, and a plan to ascend Grand River was seriously considered, tiien abandoned. The descriptions by Jones, supplemented by diose of Dellenbaugh and Thompson, are die most complete yet made of this almost inaccessible place. "Beaman comments: "It requires some litde nerve to leap across a chasm six or eight feet wide, and so deep that the bottom is not discernible. Often we would stop and tiirow large bowlders down. For several minutes we could hear them bound and rebound against the sides, then a dull thud would announce that they had struck bottom. A misstep in a place like this is not pleasant to contemplate." 84 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY to make long detours over the smooth rocks. Found a spot where pictures could be taken of the canons of the Green and Colorado. Here we ate dinner. Near, the gray had been eroded leaving a sandy valley in which grew some small pirion pines. Major and myself, leaving Beaman to take pictures, Fred, to [make] a sketch, Jack and Clem to gather pitch, struck out down the Colorado. Went for 3 miles, then turned to the northwest and walked for hours through lovely valleys and alcoves surrounded by steep walls of white rock. At length, after climbing through a steep narrow gorge we came in sight of a splendid view. Towers, columns, pinnacles, turrets, domes, in every direction.54 Wandered until the sun warned us of approaching night. The Major seemed like one entranced. Said we would call this the "Sin-av-ton-weap."H Returned to the rest, left the photographic instruments, and struck for the boat and camp which was reached at dark. Sand bank still falling. Sunday, September 17th. All of the party with the exception of Bishop and myself again went [up on the] mountain and spent the day in making pictures, taking observations, and wandering among the splendid scenery. In camp we spent the time in work on maps, copying notes, taking observations for time, Latitude, 6K. The junction is a place of unsurpassed wilderness, grandeur and solitude. Surrounded by high barren mountains, down which it is almost impossible to climb, it is my opinion that no one has ever seen the junction of the Grand and Green, the commence- "Near the moutii of the Green River die rocks are brightly colored and eroded into picturesque forms-an amazing landscape. Captain Macomb (1859) described the landscape east of the Colorado below die mouth of die Green: It baffles description * * * * From die pinnacle on which we stood die eye swept over an area some fifty miles in diameter, everywhere marked by features of more tiian ordinary interest; lofty lines of massive mesas rising in successive steps to form die frame of die pic­ture; die interval between diem more tiian 2,000 feet below dieir sum­mits. A great basin or sunken plain lay stretched out before us as on a map. Not a particle of vegetation was anywhere discernible; nothing but bare and barren rocks of rich and varied colors shimmer­ing in the sunlight. Scattered over die plain were thousands of die fantastically formed buttes to which I have so often referred in my notes; pyramids, domes, towers, columns, spires, of every conceivable form and size * * * * Singly, or in groups, diey extend like a belt of timber for a distance of several miles. Notiiing in nature or in art offers a parallel to diese singular objects * * * * Scarcely less striking features in the landscape were die innumerable canons by which die plain is cut. In every direction they ran and ramified deep, dark, and ragged, impassable to everything but the winged bird. "See Mr. Darrah's note, p. 235. The phrase was spelled by die Major ''Sinav Tu Weap," and translated by Thompson as "Ghost Land." Beaman says it meant "God's Land," but adds, "it seemed no refuge for any of God's creatures-neither bird of the air nor beast of the field." JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 85 ment of the Colorado, except our own party and that of 1869.56 I believe it to be impossible to reach that point save by water. Monday, September 18th. The Major and myself crossed the Colorado in the "Emma Dean" and climbed out between that stream and the Grand. Found hard work getting up a steep gulch. In several places we were obliged to help each other over the abrupt walls, one climbing up over the shoulders of the other, then lying down and pulling the last one up. Found the top to be much the same as the plateau between the Colorado and Green, only cut by deeper canons. One of these we followed for some miles. Going back from the river it opened into a large valley in which were signs of its having been visited by Indians.57 A trail let [led! out of it to the east in the direction of the Un-com-pa-gra Mountains. In the other direction the canon goes down to the Colorado, 4 or 5 miles below the junction but below a big rapid. Spent the day in getting the Topography of the country. Had a good view of Rock Forest 2 or 3 miles to the southeast, and near night found ourselves some 4 miles from camp in a direct line but not less than 12 by the route we were obliged to travel. Ran most of the way to get over the abrupt descents before dark. Reached camp at 8 P.M., and soon forgot hard work in sleep. Tuesday, September 19th. After redistributing our loads we broke Camp No. 62 at 9:45 A.M., and started down the Colorado. The mountains on each side steep and craggy. Mixed sand and limestone. The water of the river very muddy; in many places almost red. Ran about 4 miles and came to a big rapid; let the boats down by line a short distance on left side, took oars, pulled across, let down past another on right side, ran about % of a mile and stopped on left bank under a large hackberry tree at the head of another line portage for dinner at 11:35 A.M. Started at 1:10 P.M. and made a short line portage on left bank, ran a short distance and made another long one, then pulled out into big waves, ran but a little way and made a line portage on right bank; from this ran a big rapid, soon another line portage, then a long rapid, then another line portage, and another rapid, and a short distance below made Camp No. 63 in a small valley on left bank under one big cottonwood. Several small ones near, at the head "Dellenbaugh later qualified tiiis, the 1836 inscription by D. Julien in Cataract Canyon below having been discovered in 1889. "Concerning this reconnaissance the Major writes: Climbed out witii Jones to summit of wall on E. side of Grand. Passed die head of gulch diat runs down into the Colorado below diree or four miles and found an Indian trail for horses and campfires mat were probably made last winter. No doubt but tiiat horses can be taken down to die Colorado at diis point. If the Grand should be explored in boats die party could return by tiiis route to the Sierra La Sal or Sierra Abajo during a season when water or snow is abundant, or perhaps by careful explorations water may be found at any season. 86 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY of another long rapid. Ran 9J/£ miles. Canon walls very craggy of mixed sand and limestone, all carboniferous. Walls usually vertical for from 50 to 400 feet at top, then slope down to the water. Back of camp was a small narrow gulch. Suppose a man might climb out, but it would be hard work. Let down by line 7 times, and ran 2 rapids. Supper came just here. Wednesday, September 20th. The Major and Fred crossed the river and climbed out at a small steep gorge. Steward and Bishop got the Geology and Topography of two lateral canons. Beaman took pictures. Prof, and self observations for time, latitude and longitude. About 10 A.M. we, with Jack and Clem took the "Nell" across the river to let down through a rapid Y of a mile long. While all were in the water near the head of the rapid the boat got away and shot down stream like an arrow. We made our best time over the rocks along shore, outran the boat, which floated into an eddy. Jack swam out and we soon had it secure. Went below the rapid, left the boat, and back to camp for dinner. Took the "Emma" through all right and Prof, and self finished the observations while the "Canonita" was being taken through. Made Camp No. 64 on right bank in the sand. Made Y mile. The canon walls were tipped in every con­ceivable direction; seamed by gulches, very craggy and rough.™ Major and Fred came in near sunset. Climbed 1850 feet. Had no water all day except one canteen taken from the river. Slept again with the old familiar sound of rapids roaring. Thursday, September 21st. Broke Camp No. 64 at 8:30 A.M. Had waited for Beaman to take a picture of a tilted cliff back of camp. Ran about a mile and a half, found a nice little rapid which we ran, and continued to find them until we had run 6. Immediately below the last we let down by line for near half a mile, ran a short distance and let down again nearly as far, then ran 2 rapids and stopped for dinner on left bank among big rocks at 11:40 A.M., at the head of the worst fall yet found in this canon.59 Started again at 1:35 P.M. and were 2 hours getting the boats less than half a mile. All hands at each boat. Had the "Beginning about 10 miles below die mouth of the Green, the channel of die Colorado is marked by rock islands, cross ledges, and many rapids. The canyon walls have been broken by faults, and the strata upturned in a seemingly capricious manner. On modern maps this stretch is shown as Cataract Canyon, and, for a short distance above the mouth of the Dirty Devil, Narrow Canyon. Because of rapids and other obstructions die progress of die boats through Cataract Canyon was about 2 miles a day. "Powell writes: Down we go among die rapids. Huge rocks have fallen from die walls, great angular blocks scattered down the talus and strewn along die channel. The walls too are very craggy. Beaman took a good picture of tiiese crags this morning. The walls have been gradually been [sic] increasing from die junction where tiiey were 1200 ft. high to this point (noon camp) where they are 1600. The west wall JOURNAL OF STEPHEN VANDIVER JONES 87 hardest work at 2 points we have had on the trip. Ran a short distance and made another line portage, crossed the stream and stopped at the head of the big rapid. Decided to run and all hands got out their life preservers. The "Emma" led the way, and at the head of the rapid the current drove us on to a big rock, struck on port side just at front end of stern cabin, whirled almost around but righted and went bounding through big waves. Ran into an eddy at foot and waited for the other boats. Soon the "Nellie" came in sight, struck the same rock but farther astern, turned and came down, seeming to jump from one wave to another. The "Canonita" followed close, struck the same rock, but came through safe. Ran about half a mile and made Camp No. 65 on right bank at head of another rapid among big rocks, under the shadow of a cliff wall that rose almost vertical 1800 feet. Stopped at 4:10 P.M. The sun was out of sight, and we, wet to the skin, shivered in the cold air until a fire was kindled and dry clothes put on. The canon walls this day were usually nearly vertical on the right, and broken into sharp crags on the left, with con­siderable talus, or sloping bank. Walls increasing in height at camp nearly or quite 1800 feet, and not more than J4 of a mile wide at top. Mostly limestone, all carboniferous. All of our portages were from the left bank as we could get the best footing on that side. Let down by line 5 times and ran 8 rapids. Ran 6J^2 miles. Friday, September 22nd. Broke camp at 8 A.M. Ran a small rapid at the head of a rocky island, then let the boats down by line about a fourth of a mile. A hard portage. All hands required with each boat, ran one place [where] we got 2 sticks of driftwood and lifted the boat entirely out of the river. From here ran a short distance through rough water, then made another very hard line portage on the left bank, the first on the right, and made noon camp on the left bank among big rocks. Here Beaman and Clem took a view of the last fall passed, and after dinner" went down stream and spent the afternoon taking pictures. Started at 1:30 P.M. and were until nearly 4 o'clock in getting the 3 boats less than J4 of a mile. Here we found the center cabin of the "Nellie" about half full of water. In order to examine and make the necessary repairs we crossed the river and made Camp No. 66; right bank at 3:45 P.M. Uploaded [unloaded] the "Emma" and "Nellie," put a false rib in each and mended the iron on the keel of the "Emma." The "Canonita" was also leak­ing badly but did not get across in season to be overhauled. Camp was at head of another long rapid and big fall where we will have is very bold and grand, nearly vertical. The waters make roaring music at the foot of the cliffs, plunging over falls and whirling and foaming among die rocks. The men work with a will tiiat seems wonderful. Here we have cataracts. Hard work. 88 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY hard work tomorrow morning. Worked an hour this morning before we saw the sun, and nearly as long in the water after seeing the last of him tonight. Made 1 Y miles.60 Saturday, September 23rd. Broke camp at 7:35 A.M., and immediately let down over the greatest fall found since leaving Ashley. The water falls almost straight down 4 or 5 feet and the descent is 20 or more feet within Y or a mile. Named these "Ross Falls.'"1 Left the "Canonita" for pictures, ran a short dis­tance and let down by line for Y or a mile, then ran a rapid, left Andy to get dinner, and let the "Emma" and "Nell" down a long shallow rapid. All these from right bank. Ran the "Emma" down to the head of another big rapid and went back to help Beaman and Clem over the second rapid with the "Canonita." Made noon camp on right bank just as the General called dinner. He [We ?] stopped at 11 A.M. Started again at 1:10 P.M. Let the "Canonita" [down] past the rapid, and both boats ran down to the "Dean." Looked a long time before we decided to run. The river was not more than 100 feet wide at the head of the rapid, waves 6 or 7 feet high, and current 20 to 30 miles. The canon walls were about Y miles at top, and good footing could be had along the shore, that is, if rocks can be called good footing. Beaman prepared his plate for an instantaneous view, while the "Dean" should be passing. We turned the prow of our boat down stream, all the rest on the bank watching, and started down; the first big wave that went over the boat unshipped the starboard oars of both the boys, leaving only the steering oar to turn the craft hard to port. The instantaneous view failed and we went ahead to a long succession of rapids; waited for the other boats then let down for % of a mile past what some of the men called 4 rapids, but I could see no break. Made Camp No. 67 on left bank between 2 big rapids. The character of the rocks has not changed geologically since leaving the junction. Found several places in this day's run where the wall was 2000 feet nearly vertical. At camp the river ran nearly west. Wall on right very steep, and high. On left, set back. A large gulch just above camp. Walls a mile wide at top. Made 3% miles. "Powell estimated die distance at 1% miles. He adds: Letting our boats [down] over diree cataracts by very hard labor. The walls are about 2000 ft. high on right and nearly vertical, but on left are broken and craggy. The scenery is very grand and the roaring of the mad waters is something awful. Stop to repair boats rather early. At the falls huge blocks of rock obstruct die channel, causing chutes and whirlpools, and still the water tumbles down from 10 to 20 feet at a fall. Today the fall cannot be less tiian 75 feet * * * * aAs near as his handwriting can be deciphered, die Major renders tiiis "Rap Falls." During die afternoon voyage he tiiought the walls of the can­yon "grand beyond description," towering 2000 or 2500 feet. "The walls are often nearly vertical on right and grandly craggy on left. River still roars-and roars!"