Utah Historical Quarterly Volume XVI - XVII

Journal of W. C. Powell, edited by Charles Kelly - 3

328 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY rapids just below camp and about % a mile long. We rowed across to the other side of the river and then Jack and I began wading down with her while Prof, and Jones held on to the rope. Coming to a bad place we tied the other end to the stern of the boat and we all held on to the rope and gradually let her over, but just after getting over she got a bulge on us, jerked the rope out of our hands, piling us "promiscuous." Away she went, sailing gaily over the rapid without striking a rock and finally drifted into an eddy. In the meantime all of us were scrambling over the rocks and along the bank after her. Visions of wrecks and of short rations danced before us. Jack simply swore an oath. Jones said, "she has gone to the devil sure." I merely answered, "you bet." We soon overtook her as she was being slowly sucked over the falls. Jack and I swam out to her some 3 or 4 rods from shore, climbed into her and soon we brought her all right to shore. We then let her down over the other fall and across the river. Walking back to camp I went back to my oars and failed to hear the call for "grub" and did not get any till after the rest had finished. After dinner we, that is Jack and I, let down the other 2 boats in safety over the rapids. 'Tis hard, miserable work. We have only made % a mile today, and 2 rapids, both portages, one on the right bank. As we were coming down with the "Canonita" the Maj. and Fred came in hungry and tired, having climbed 1850 ft. Fred killed a rattlesnake and brought in the rattles. Made a fire on the sand and soon had supper, after which did some sewing on my breeches; the water is hard on them. Built a fire around which we are gathered, some writing, others smoking. 'Tis a beautiful night, the moon shining brighdy just over the opposite caiion wall. Two years ago [July 21, 1869] the "Emma" was swamped in trying to run these rapids and lost 3 oars. They laid over a day to make new ones. We found one partly made. I wonder what they are doing at home tonight. Sept. 21st. This morning Beaman took a couple of fine views of the caiion up and down the river, I packing the boat in the meantime. Started out at 8:30 running 5 rapids, one of two bad ones. We then made 3 kicking portages, then ran 4 more rapids gaily. Landed on left-hand bank for dinner at 11:45 under a hackberry tree among huge boulders. Built a big fire and sat in the warm sunshine to dry out, which we accomplished by dinner time. Starting out again at 1:15 we made a couple of long hard portages. The water in the Colorado River is deeper and the rocks harder and sharper than in Green River; the current is far swifter, and to make a kicking or any other kind of a portage is no child's play. The boat at times will be wedged in between the rocks while we are tugging and pulling away; suddenly away she will go, dragging us after her, holding on for dear life, and woe to the unlucky one who does not keep his legs in his pockets JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 329 at such a time. 'Tis a wonder that some of us have not had a leg or two broken. All of us wear horrible scars from our knees downward to remind us of the days when we made portages. The walls are growing higher and vertical, about 1600 feet. Before dinner made 5% miles; after made 1% miles by hard work by 4% p.m. Have made 15 or 16 rapids, running about % of them and portaging the rest. Are camped on right-hand bank on barely enough sand to accommodate us all. The water is becoming clearer. Read some of Jones's Lacon papers around the camp-fire tonight. Sept. 22nd. Beaman took a couple of fine views before leaving camp this morning. We then made two long hard port­ages through dangerous rapids, all hands to each boat. By the time we were through with them 'twas 11 % o'clock. Camped on left-hand bank on the rocks for dinner. Have only made about Y oi a mile. Beaman and I went back to take some views of the rapids before dinner, I taking one or two of them. Took a couple of instantaneous views as the water came boiling over the falls. Left our boxes there till after dinner. After taking a couple more "backed" the boxes and carried them about % a mile below camp to the next fall. Set them up behind a huge rock and went to work while the other boats were being let down. I went back to help them after doing all I could for Beaman, but they had got them all below the rapid. The Maj. said he would leave the "Canonita" for Beaman and myself to cross in when Beaman got through. I went back, helped Beaman pack up and lugged the boxes back to the boat, then we crossed over to where the other boats had gone into camp at 3:45. Have made by hard work about 1% miles. The boats are all leaking badly, the "Nell's" main cabin being half full of water. The "Nell" and "Emma" were unpacked and hauled up for repairs, caulking, 6 c Beaman and I busy preparing chemicals, 6 c We are on a little pack of sand, just enough to spread our blankets on. Built a big fire, read till 9:00. Have made 5 rapids. Sept. 23rd. After letting down the first rapid this morning Beaman and I pulled across the river to take some views of the caiion. On coming back across found some of the boys waiting to help us down over the next rapid, a long hard one. We then ran the next two and landed just as dinner was ready on right bank under a hackberry tree, after which we again let down over a nasty little rapid, when we came to a roarer, you bet. The river here is forced through a narrow channel about 50 ft. wide and has a fall of 6 or 8 feet right down, but luckily not having many rocks in it. The Maj. decided to run it and have Beaman take an instantaneous view of the boats as they ran it. So getting our things ready the "Emma" started out, all of us watching her eagerly, for it was a bad, dangerous rapid and the Maj. only 330 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY experimenting. Beaman had the camera all ready. The water is as smooth as a mirror as it comes over the fall for the first 4 or 5 feet and then is churned into a perfect sea of foam beneath. The "Emma" came on slowly at first, and then suddenly plunged into the mad waters, fairly jumping from wave to wave, the waves breaking over her from time to time. Shooting by us in no time at all she ran the rapid splendidly, but Beaman failed on his view. Tried another when the "Nell" ran it and also failed.51 We then packed up, put them in the boat and gaily ran the rapid ourselves. We soon were with the other boats at the head of 4 long rapids together. We let down them, each crew to its own boat and landed for the night on left-hand bank at 4:45. Have made 3% miles and 10 rapids, making 8 portages. The river now is nothing but rapids huddled together. The water is not quite low enough to make kicking portages pleasant, and not high enough to run them. Every night we are lulled to sleep by the music of the one just above camp and the ominous roar of the one below. The scenery is very grand but grows monotonous. Sept. 24th. Started out at 7%, running the first rapid and letting down the second over a fall of 8 or 10 feet perpendicular almost, then ran 2 more, made a portage over the next 2 and then running 4 more in succession. Landed at 12% on left bank for dinner and camp. Have run 6 rapids and made 24 portages, making 10 rapids in all. Made 4% miles. Will stay here till Tuesday morning repairing the boats and resting. Are camped at the entrance of a gulch and on a sand bank, a few hackberry trees affording shade. The walls of the caiion vary from 2500 to 3000 feet high, vertical. The sun comes up over one at about 8:00 a.m. and disappears over the other at 3:00 p.m. After dinner the Maj., Jones and Beaman climbed up the gorge and did not get back till after supper and dark. We hauled the boats up on the beach after unpacking them, washed off their bottom and will leave them to dry till tomorrow, when we will pitch them. I prac­ticed at firing at floating foam on the river. Prof., Steward and I spent the afternoon pleasantly talking and then we wrote up our diaries. We had beans for supper. We are having beautiful moonlight nights here in the canon; the weather is pleasant, therm­ometer standing between 90 and 94 at noon in the shade, but the mornings and nights are cool. Do not feel the heat much. We cut a few willows and at 8:00 p.m. we all turned in to snooze. Sept. 25th. This morning after breakfast the Maj., Fred, Jones, Beaman and I started up the gulch, Beaman to photograph and Jones to map the gulch. About half way up it the Maj. and Fred turned off to climb the canon wall for topographical pur­poses, while the rest of us kept on. The scenery was very fine, T h e "wet plate" process of the period was not "fast" enough for this kind of action photography. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 331 the gorge narrow and winding with perpendicular wall from 1500 to 2000 feet high, while at the end of it a stream of cold water came down emptying in a pool some 20 feet deep. The water was impregnated with sulphur. Setting up the dark tent I took the camera and climbed the talus and put it in different positions while Beaman prepared the plates. I had almost for­gotten to say that we had brought our dinner along with us. While we were taking pictures the Prof, and Steward came up, and building a fire we soon had our coffee boiling and made, which with cold bread, meat and cigarettes made a very romantic repast. The Prof, then returned to camp, Steward to geologize, Jones for topographical, while Beaman and I moved our things for another view. Found that we had to wait for the light for an hour or so; then I coated a couple of plates while Beaman ex­posed them; then packing up we started for camp some 3 or 4 miles away when the sun was low. Soon it went down and the moon came up and we went stumbling over the rocks. We heard a shout and looking up saw the Maj. and Fred coming down the mountain. We got to camp in time to enjoy our mess of beans and in about 20 minutes the Maj. and Fred joined us. We found the boats nicely pitched and repaired and things all ship-shape for an early start tomorrow. Feel very tired, as we all do in fact. Maj. climbed about 3300 feet. We sat around the fire till 8% p.m., and then all turned in. Sept. 26th. After packing up this morning started out at 8:05, running the first 2 rapids and then came to a stunner. Ran the first part of it, then let down aways and then ran the lower part of it gaily. We then came to another big one and ran it, but the "Nell" came near swamping. Three waves went over her filling the bow and half filling the stern companionway, but came out all right. We, in running it, came near going over the ledge of rocks on the left; as it was we struck one of them with a thump on the keel but no damage done. It frightened the Maj. however. We ran 3 more and landed for dinner on the right bank. Beaman and I putting up the boxes took 3 pictures; one of them he had to go across the river for. After dinner we let down over the rapid just below. We then stopped for another view looking up the river, then ran 4 more rapids in succession and landed for camp on right bank at 4:20. Have made 6% miles, running 10 rapids and making 2 portages. The thermometer 100.5 in the shade at 2:00 p.m. The walls are from 3000 to 3500 feet high and are simply sublime in appearance, nearly vertical, almost destitute of vegetation; are mostly heavy bedded sand­stone. We are running down the limestone which make the ugly rapids; the limestone is almost a blue marble. We are camped on a talus of huge rocks under the walls of the caiion, a little patch of sand affording us a place to sleep on. The moon 332 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY coming up behind some lone crag makes an impressive sight. Fred and myself sat up till 10:00 enjoying it. Sept. 27th. This morning the Maj. took Beaman, Prof., Fred, Jones, Jack and myself up a gulch a little way from camp to take some views of it. After climbing with the boxes up a couple of steep benches, we came to a lovely place. A gulch went wind­ing up to the top of the caiion in benches, while a stream of water came down from bench to bench, collecting in pools or basins, then trickling downward. In the foreground a little grove of cottonwoods, like some old orchard, relieved the barrenness. After taking a couple of views returned to camp, Beaman tak­ing a view while Andy, Steward, Prof, and I let down the "Canonita"; the other boats had been taken down while we were gone. After letting down and taking Beaman aboard started out at 10:20, running a couple of bad rapids. Landed at 12:30 for dinner on left-hand bank on some rocks, Beaman and I setting up the dark tent and taking a couple of fine views. Mended my breeches before dinner was ready. After dinner pulled out making a portage first thing, and then ran 3 rapids one after the other, when we came to another regular roarer and of course made a portage, all hands to each boat. By the time we were through it was 4% p.m. and we were cold and wet. So we camped for the night on the left bank on a sand bank. Beaman lent me a pair of dry breeches and we all changed our clothing, built a huge fire and were comfortable. Spent a very pleasant time around the fire talking and chatting. Turned in at 9:00. Sept 28th. Forgot to say last night that we made 6% miles, 5 rapids and 3 portages. This morning the "Emma" and "Nell" went ahead leaving Beaman to take a view and me to clean some dirty glass. I broke one, leaving 7 plates between here and the Dirty Devil. After we were through started out at 9:30, running 2 rapids, and then came up with the other boats at the head of a bad let down. The Maj. and Prof., thinking it a good place to climb out, started up a gulch down which quite a stream was flowing. Beaman and I set up the tent at the mouth of the gulch. I then left him and went back to help the boys make the portage. The result was that I was jerked among the rocks and in the water to my heart's content and was fully as wet as if I had kicked alongside the boat instead of holding onto the line; but finally the boats were below and we were rejoiced with glad­ness. After dinner Fred gave me a pair of woolen breeches, for I am reduced to one pair of canvas ones. Finding a pretty little cave among the rocks Fred, Bish, Steward, Beaman and I enjoyed ourselves, Fred sketching, Bish plotting his map, Steward and Beaman reading and I writing my diary. Suddenly up came the Maj. and Prof, at 3:30, saying that we would start out at once, that they could not climb out here. Andy having some beans on JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 333 cooking, [we] concluded to have supper here. Finally all being ready we started out at 4:20, ran the first rapid and then came to one that the Maj. afterwards told us he had dreaded ever since starting out on the trip. It was a bad one, the channel being full of rocks around an island and very swift. After reach­ing the foot of the island it set out in full force against the opposite cliff with bad rocks in it besides. We landed at the head of the island with difficulty and let down over a bad fall and then we were compelled to run the rest which we did by hard pulling. I hope with this our last portage is over with for this year. The Maj. says he thinks it will be. We then ran another rapid at dusk, then had clear sailing for 5 or 6 miles and landed for the night on the right bank at the head of a rapid. It was almost dark and had commenced to sprinkle. Soon we picked out our sleeping places and spread our blankets with our paulins over us to keep the rain off. It soon cleared up how­ever, and the moon came up over the crags on the opposite wall. We changed our wet clothes for dry ones. The wind blew fiercely, blowing sand in every direction. Sept 29th. We made 9 miles yesterday, running 4 rapids and making 2 portages. This morning we were treated to a thunder storm in the canyon. It commenced just after breakfast and kept us an hour and a half. It was [a] grand thing to see. We were huddled in kind of a cave or niche rather, in the cliff, and were as snug as you please. Could see the rain as it came up from down the caiion in gusts with now and then a rainbow spanning the walls and one over the rapid below, and then from over the opposite wall about 3000 feet high "a thousand waterfalls were set in play" in small slender threads 1000 feet long, at last disappearing in spray to collect again on some projecting ledge and continue their downward way to the river. We pulled out at about 10:00 a.m., and ran the rapid in fine style and another and another, but they are about played now and do not amount to much. In about an hour we ran out of Cataract Caiion, 40 miles long, and into Mille Crag Bend. Beaman and I rowed back % of a mile to take a view while the other boats went on a short distance. After setting up our tent it commenced to rain and we had to postpone operations. Beaman got under a rock and I under the tent. After waiting an hour it cleared up and we took a fine view of the crags. The crags are fully 3000 feet high and simply a continuation of the walls of Cataract Canon. We soon joined the other boats a mile down farther and found that the Maj. and Prof, had climbed out but had left word that he wanted another view % of a mile upstream. We are camped on a lot of rocks on the left bank % mile from the head of Nar­row Caiion. After dinner Beaman and I rowed back and took the view and returned by % after 2:00. We found Bish, Fred 334 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY and Steward exploring a couple of caves a short distance back of camp. They had been inhabited by the Shenemos. We could tell by the smoke that blackened their roofs. We found some corn and corn cobs among the rubbish, 6c.,08 are about 15 feet long, 8 feet wide and 6 or 7 feet high. It being nice and cool we stayed there, I writing my diary and the others at their work. At about 4:00 p.m. the Maj. and Prof, came up and said we would start at once for the Devil, but as Jones had not come in yet and it would be after 5:00 before we could get ready, concluded to stay and get an early start in the morning. After supper Jones came in. We cut some willows and spread our blankets on the sand; built a fire around which we sat and talked and wrote till 8 or 9 o'clock and then turned in. Have made 5 miles and have run some dozen rapids, small ones, however, The thermometer stood at 2 o'clock, 100 in the shade. Sept. 30th. Was called up at 5:00 this morning and we started out at 6:15 and soon left Mille Crag Bend behind. 'Tis 5 miles long and entered Narrow Canon. The walls are nearly vertical and about 1500 feet high, though lowering to 200 or 300 by the time it ends at the Dirty Devil. We saw a glimpse of the Un­known [Henry] Mountains and stopped to take a view of them at a sulphur spring. The other boats went on. There are sulphur springs all along the canon and the smell is fearful. The water is quite warm in them and the rocks are coated with sulphur. After taking a view started out and in about an hour overtook the other boats at the famous Dirty Devil River. 'Tis a small dirty stream and that is all. 'Tis the outlet of a lake some 50 miles back from the Colorado.88 We being out of plates for pictures the Maj. has decided to leave the "Canonita" here and come up after her next spring with photographic supplies to take pictures of Mound and Monument canons. So Beaman and I raFrom tiiis point to Lees Ferry many cliff dwellings are found along the river and in tributary canyons, some river bars having been farmed by Indians of the pueblo period. ^Clem's mention of a lake as die source of die Dirty Devil River evidendy refers to Fish Lake, about 125 miles distant, but die source of his information is uncertain. The desert country drained by the Dirty Devil and Escalante rivers seems to have been unknown to Spanish explorers and American trappers. Fremont's winter expedition of 1853 probably followed die Old Spanish Trail from Greenriver, Utah, to Bear Valley north of Panguitch, crossing the Dirty Devil just below Fish Lake; but it would have been hidden by deep snow, unrecognizable as a river. In 1866 die James Andrus expedition crossed die Escalante River near the future site of Escalante town and crossed die Dirty Devil near present Loa, but failed to name either stream. Three years later Major Powell discovered its mouth. Powell himself first gave name to the Dirty Devil River, but subsequendy changed die name to Fremont River. By a recent ruling of die U.S. Board on Geographical Names, die name "Fremont" is restricted to die upper river above the junction with Muddy Creek in Wayne County, die combined stream which flows to the Colorado being once more named die Dirty Devil. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 335 repacked the chemical boxes, for we are going to leave one of them with her. The Maj., Prof, and Jones have climbed out and will be gone all day. After dinner Fred and I gathered a lot of driftwood for Andy to cook some beans for supper. Took the 2:00 p.m. observation. Have been writing my diary. Narrow Caiion is 7 miles long and ends here. Have run 6 rapids, made one easy portage today. Have been reading Macbeth. Jack caught a couple of big fish; will have them for breakfast tomorrow. Have beans and apples for supper. While eating supper Jones came in; a few minutes afterwards heard the Maj.'s and Prof.'s voices across the Dirty Devil, so Steward and I took the "Nell" and went after them. They have found an Indian trail leading back from the river so we can get down here next spring after the boat. Took the 9 o'clock observation for the Capt. Steward found a knife that one of the previous party lost here, also found traces of the Shenemos; they have lived all along the canon. Oct. 1st, [1871]. This morning the Maj. said that he, Jones, Prof., Steward and Bish would climb out for scientific work, but first we took the "Canonita" across the Dirty Devil, hauled her up on the rocks and into a cave and buried her in sand till next spring." The boys then climbed out, the Prof., Steward and Bish took the "Nell" down a couple of miles™ and then climbed out. Beaman, Fred, Jack, Andy and I will stay in our old camp till 4:00 p.m., then row across the Dirty Devil and wait for the Maj. and Jones and then go down to the "Nell" and camp for the night and then start for the Crossing of the Fathers instanter. Have only 150 lbs. of flour, the crossing 145 miles away. Beaman took pictures of the mouth of the Dirty Devil. Have only one plate left. Have been shooting at a mark across the river, trying our guns. Made a couple of splendid shots. Have been reading Shakespeare, and at 3:30 we commenced packing things in the "Emma." At 4:00 Fulled across the Dirty Devil and waited for the Maj. and Jones, reading "King John." After waiting % hour the Maj. and Jones came up and getting into the boat made a very heavy load of it. We then pulled down a couple of miles, 6 landed on the right-hand bank near the "Nell." Could see nothing of the other boys. We are camped on a narrow shelf a few rods wide densely covered with willows, under a steep cliff. 'Tis the beginning of Mound Canon." Building a fire and cutting willows for beds was all the go for awhile. Soon Steward came in and as we The party was short of supplies and the photographers had run out of plates; one boat was left here so tiieir work could be completed later if the mouth of the Dirty Devil could be reached overland. Some bits of iron from this boat were found in 1945 by Harry Aleson. T o the mouth of Norm Wash, formerly Crescent Creek. "See Dr. Gregory's note, p. 96. 336 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY were eating supper Prof, and Bish came in tired and hungry. Had been out some 15 miles. I have taken the observations for today. Had quite a time taking the 9:00 p.m. on account of a strong wind. Oct. 2nd. This morning at breakfast the Maj. said that Andy and myself would go in the "Nell," Beaman would take Fred's place in the "Emma," while he (Fred) sketched. We then di­vided to [the] load and at 8:30 started out. The boats are very heavy with their loads and 5 men each. Mound Caiion is very wide, with low broken cliffs or bluffs and set back from the river. Are composed of red and gray sandstone. Every now and then a creek, gulch or valley comes in from the top of the cliff. One looks on miles and miles of naked rocks or billows rather, of orange-colored sandstone, bare of vegetation and little or no loose sand. The name of the caiion is called from the mounds that cover the top of it. We have run several shallow, bad rapids. In one of them we had to jump out and hold on to the boat as she went scraping over the stones. The boats are topheavy, 5 men to the boat. Now and then we caught sight of the higher cliffs standing back from the lower cliffs near the river, but nothing but naked rocks, rounded like thousands of bee-hives. At 10:00 we saw an old ruin of a Shenemo house standing on a point of a ledge of rock 60 or 75 feet in height. We had to drop down the river % of mile before we could land on account of sand bars. We then scrambled back through bushes and mud and over rocks to the ruin. Found 3 walls standing but the fourth and the roof had caved in. Found a small ruin near it and several pictures rudely carved on the flat rocks. The walls were about 15 feet high and 12 feet long, [the building] was well put up and plastered with clay. Fred copied the pictures while the rest of us hunted for arrowheads." Bish went back to the boat and told Andy to get dinner. As we were returning along the ledge we discovered another ruin and a pile of picture writings and of course stopped to examine them and Fred copied them. Steward and I hunted around after more arrowheads and found several. Soon we heard the cry of "soup" and returned to a good dinner. We are camped on a T h e lower story of tiiis tower still stands, aldiough one wall has partially collapsed. Dellenbaugh's sketch on page XX of A Canyon Voyage was copied from petroglyphs near this ruin, which stands at the mouth of White Canyon. In 1947 an inscription made by Dellenbaugh in 1872 was discovered on a large boulder near this ruin. Opposite is the mouth of Trachyte Creek, leading to die Henry Mountains. This place, later called Dandy Crossing, was the principal Indian crossing of the Colorado between Greenriver, Utah, and the Crossing of the Fathers. Cass Hite, eccentric prospector and hermit, lived here from 1883 to 1898, then moved downstream to Tickaboo Creek where he died in 1912. During the Glen Canyon gold rush of 1898 a post-office called Hite was established in Hite's old cabin, mail being brought from Hanksville on horseback. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 337 little rocky beach. While eating dinner saw an eagle gobble up a couple of small birds. Started on down at 2:00 p.m. running a rapid now and then, but as we are through Cataract Caiion kept no track of the number, though now and then we came to a bad one and hard pulling and exciting times are all the rage. We are pulling with a will now for rations are short and we are very saving of everything except flour. We have plenty of bread but only a little piece of sowbelly, about 2 or 4 inches square at a meal. Do not use any sugar except in coffee, 6 c When I started from Green River City I thought I never could go sow­belly- now it is a dainty tidbit. We aren't starving by any means now, nowhere near it, for there is always plenty of bread left after a meal and instead of butter we use gravy and codfish. The scenery is grand but it takes a better man than I am to des­cribe it. The river is winding with gulches and ravines coming down to it and is heavily fringed with willows and brush. At 4:30 we came to some more ruins on the left bank and concluded to camp for the night. Have made 17% miles. We had to climb a steep bank with our things and wood. As we were com­ing down the river Andy shot a duck. After collecting wood for Andy and spreading our blankets we went over to the ruins some % of a mile away on a bluff. The walls were all caved in on the 3 buildings, one of which was one of their kivas or temples. 'Twas circular in shape. We dug around it in hopes of finding some relics but 'twas no go. Found a few arrowheads and any quantity of chips and broken pottery.88 We had a very good supper and a pleasant chat and smoke around a cheerful camp-fire, the Maj. telling us the history of the Shenemos. At 9:00 all turned in, feeling tired. Oct. 3rd. Started out at 8:00 passing through rather tame scenery of Mound Caiion. The current is almost dead, though now and then a rapid helps us along faster. The river is very winding and pulling is tough. The Prof, spelled me for an hour while I steered the boat. The duck that Andy killed yesterday we had for breakfast this morning in the shape of soup. 'Twas gay. We camped for dinner on the left shore on a small rocky beach for dinner at 12:00. The Maj. and Prof, climbed the low bluff back of camp while the rest of us were waiting dinner. They returned while we were eating; nothing to be seen but barren rocks with now and then some distant butte, solitary and alone, except a range of unknown volcanic mountains to the right some 25 miles away.59 Started out again at 2:15, keeping T h i s group of ruins is located at the mouth of Red Canyon, where Bert Loper, famous river boatman, once lived. It has never been excavated. T h i s isolated group of five peaks was later named die Henry Mountains. Traces of gold have been found but no profitable mine has ever been developed in the Henrys. 338 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY both pair of oars in play all the time. Occasionally we would sail along some high wall 600 or 800 feet high, now on one side then on the other side of the river, while on the opposite side was nothing but the same low broken bluffs. Ran one or two bad rapids. We struck some rocks and all hands jumped out to save the boat and wade with her down part of the rapid. We landed for camp on the left bank at 5:30 p.m. 'Tis on a sand bank we are camped-% of a mile on the bank proper. Have made 27 miles. Spent the evening pleasantly around the fire. Andy is cooking beans for breakfast in the morning. Oct. 4th. While we were down at the river washing the Maj. said jokingly that we needed some kicking portages-that we were too "high lifed," 6c. The thermometers then stood at 41 degrees. Broke up camp at about 8:00. Caiion is growing narrower, the walls steeper and higher, at times 800 feet high but entirely destitute of vegetation and rounded at the top in the same manner as before. About % after 9 we struck a reef running the whole width of the river. All jumped out and by hard work pushing, lifting and hauling, got the boats over. The bed of the river now is sandstone cut up into cracks, the river very shallow, only about a foot deep and the boats go scraping over the rocky bottom while each crew wades by their sides. The bottom is rounded in the same manner as the top of cation walls are and we have hard work at times to get the boats over the mounds, and again we would get the boats in a crack where they would float nicely while we would be walking by their sides, the water barely over our shoes, and then all at once we would go down up to our waists. We went first one side of the river and then to the other to deeper water, but it was no go, and then to cap all, a little nasty shallow rapid came up before and in trying to run it the "Emma" broke an oar and the "Nell" an oar and had a bad hole stove through her through which the water came in fast, keeping one of us constantly bailing out. The stretch was about a mile long80 and we worked and tugged away at it till noon and passed beyond the shoal, landed on the right bank for dinner and repairs. Unloaded the "Nell," hauled her up on the sand and soon had the hole fixed up with a false rib, 6 c There only being one spare oar we had to splice one broken one belonging to the "Nell" so that now the bow oars that I pull are bungling. I took the barometrical observations for Capt. at 2:00 p.m., and at 2:30 we were again afloat on the "Lake Canyon rapid. On die upper end of die bar opposite (right bank) is an indistinct French inscription dated 1837. Nearby are die figures "1642," believed to have been cut by a prospector in 1896 as a hoax. Trappers could have reached this bar on horseback. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 339 Colorado. The Maj. little thought this morning what kicking portages we would have today. The river bends and twists in a tortuous manner, the walls perpendicular on both sides and are of an orange-colored sandstone with broad bands of black running down them where they have been stained by the rain and of course are beautiful. We ran a few more rapids and landed for the night on the right bank at 5:30 p.m., built a fire on the rocks but spread our blankets on the bank above. Back of camp is a lovely alcove; first is a low wall with here and there a narrow entrance inside. Between the first wall and the caiion wall is a little park with trees and flowers growing within.81 We will find them [all] along now through this canon. Oct. 5th. Broke up camp at 8:00 and started out on our winding way. We made 23 miles yesterday. The scenery is monotonous. We pass a few islands here and there, now and then running a rapid. With the exceptions of the rapids, the current is only about a mile or even less an hour. My hands are getting sore and hard from constant rowing, though the Prof. spells me now and then. In an hour and % we came to a small stream coming in on the right.88 The Maj. and Prof, tried to climb out but failed, so we started on. The banks are heavily fringed with willow and small brush, green grass, 6c. Forms a pretty contrast with the buff sandstone walls. Now and then we come to banks of the most beautiful yellow-colored sand I ever saw. We can now see Mount Seneca Howland,88 5000 or 6000 feet high. The Maj. named it after one of his previous party down here, and who was one of the 3 killed by the Indians. 'Tis a splendid mountain, sharp ridged, heavily wooded and standing alone. The Maj. wanted to stop a day and climb it, but some of the boys feeling anxious about rations he concluded not to. On going down farther he and Prof, climbed out while we dropped down % or % of a mile farther for dinner. I have forgotten to say that at about 11:00 a.m. we passed the River San Juan, [thus coming] out of Mound Canon and into Monument Caiion, the river being the division between the two canons. It "Hole-in-tiie-Rock, where in 1879 a Mormon wagon train cut a road down through a narrow gorge, crossed the Colorado and continued east to found die settlement of Bluff on the San Juan River. This was the moutii of die Escalante River, half hidden, unnoticed on die first voyage and still considered too insignificant to rate a name. Mormon explorers may have found its upper waters as early as 1866. Jacob Hamblin had reached its source in the fall of 1870 or spring of 1871. But its true nature was not discovered until 1872 when Thompson's party found its upper waters while searching for die Dirty Devil. It was therefore the last river to be discovered in die United States. "Mt. Seneca Howland, named for one of Powell's men who left die 1869 expedition at Separation Rapids, is now called Navajo Mountain. Rain­bow Bridge stands at its base. 340 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY is 5 or 6 feet wide and 2 or 3 inches deep." It is spread over a good deal of territory but its bed is quicksand. It drains the San Juan Mountains on the western slope of the Rockies. 'Tis a dirty stream. We camped for dinner a couple of miles from its mouth. The Maj. told us that by going back to the wall of the canon we would find what he called "Music Temple." Of course we went for it. It is a gulch cut out of the wall by water; it is arched and extends into the wall while its walls tower up for 1000 or 1200 feet. One can only see a narrow, very narrow strip of blue sky above. The entrance is winding, and turning a corner one beholds the grand amphitheatre. 'Tis delightfully cool, the walls are vaulted; at the farther end is a basin of clear cool water holding thousands of barrels of water. Just in front of it is a pile of rocks; the floor is of gravel. At the entrance are A tall, slim cottonwood trees inside of the vaulted roof. The Temple is 320 feet wide by 520 feet long and will hold 40,000 or 50,000 people. The previous party camped here for a day or so. We found "O. G. Howland, 1869" carved on the wall. He was afterwards killed by the Indians, and a brother of Seneca H. We placed our names by the side of it and I carved mine and Morris' and one or 2 others with state and date.86 In the back part of the cave and to one side is a narrow winding gorge some 20 feet from the ground, where the water comes tumbling down in wet weather from the top of the wall of the caiion. Along the side of the wall we found some ferns, mosses, 6 c , and near the entrance mountain oak. I gathered some to send home to the folks. On the bank of the river we found the barrel cactus. It often grows to the height of 5 or 6 feet and is the exact shape of a barrel. Just as we were finishing our dinner the Maj. and Prof, called to us across the river. Jack and Steward went after them in a boat. After they had eaten they also visited the Temple. We finally started out at 3:00 p.m. down Monument Canon. The walls are higher, about 1500 feet on the average and nearly vertical, with very narrow lateral canons coming in on either side, through which we can see some lonely buttes or monuments (hence the name) rising up from the top of the canon 500, 600, or 800 feet high, or again when we would come to a straight The San Juan River was at a very low stage; it has been known to go entirely dry, although at times it carries almost as much water and more silt dian the Colorado. Because of its low stage Powell's party did not encounter the curious "sand waves" which sometimes overturn boats in this section. "In 1938 the Stone expedition stopped at Music Temple to examine ttiese old inscriptions. Those of the Howland brothers and William H. Dunn, made in 1869, were very Indistinct. Those cut tiiis year and in 1872 were: F. S. Dellenbaugh, W. C. Powell, F. M. Bishop, J. K. Hillers, J. F. Steward, W. D. Johnson. A tobacco can left by Dr. Frazier contains a list of visitors since 1933. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 341 stretch of river; looking down could see the vertical undulating canon walls and then back or beyond rather, see some tall butte looking like some old deserted ruin with peaks and turrets and all of naked rock with no vegetation save perhaps the hardy sage brush. 'Tis a grand canon. We ran some bad rapids, some we had to jump out and catch hold of the boat and wade with it a short distance and then get in and ply our oars lively, as the current went booming against the cliff. Once while pulling away from the cliff we ran broadside to a rock and came very near tipping over, but jumping out waist deep, soon got boat off. We saw a wildcat running along a talus of rock under the cliff, and at 5:40 landed on the left bank for the night, cutting some wil­lows, spreading our blankets and then round the fire we huddled to dry out. We have supper at 7:00 p.m. by camp-fire light as usual. I gave the Maj., Jones and Andy a sack each of tobacco, they being out. Then our usual chat and smoking cigarettes till one by one they drop off to snore, Bish and myself being last on account of the 9 o'clock observation. Oct. 6th. Yesterday made 22% miles. Broke up camp at 8:10; pull out with a will for the Crossing of the Fathers, our mail and rations just 20 miles away. At each new turn something new presented itself to our admiring gaze but we did not care much about scenery now; it was mail we were pulling for. Of course we ran a few rapids but did not have to get out. When we had gone about 6 or 7 miles all at once we saw some tracks on the sand. We landed and saw that they belonged to white men with shod horses and on going up the bank found that a fire had been over it a short time before. It had probably spread from some camp-fire. We at once knew that our pack train had been up there, very likely to meet us and that we might come across them at any moment. We found any quantity of roasted acorns around the fire. We started out again in 15 or 20 minutes and by 12 M. we had made 13% miles. We are camped on right bank on a rocky ledge with plenty of driftwood, 6 c 'Tis the best camp we have had for a long time, it being free from sand and about 15 feet above the river. We are on the commence­ment of another "bow-knot" thusly [diagram] and 7 miles from the Crossing. As the rocks became heated by the fire they began to mutter, and as we were sitting or standing around, some read­ing, others writing and some waiting "grub struck," it went c-r-a-c-k and each one of us looked around to see who were still living; but finding (on counting up) that all were still kicking, the excitement gradually subsided. While Andy was getting dinner Jack caught a large fish that was immediately dressed and cooked. Had a glorious dinner. Started out at 2:15, pulling a good steady stroke, when suddenly, when about a mile from 342 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY the Crossing,88 we heard a gun go off close at hand and on looking up on the bank beheld 3 white men. We at once landed and found that it was our train at last and with mail and rations. We of course went heavy for our letters. I was bitterly disappointed at only receiving 2 letters, one from Morris, the other from Joe Kochly. I had been looking eagerly for the past 2 weeks for at least half a dozen letters from home, at the Crossing. It only makes 2 since leaving Uintah in July last. Got about a dozen papers from Naperville. One of them had one of my letters in to the Chicago Tribune. Was complimented by the Maj., Prof., and the rest on it. I am very glad that Morris received $25.00 from Tribune. Hope it will help him a litde. Capt. Dodge [Dodds] with a couple of other men are in charge of the train." The Navajo Indians, 116 strong, have been over among the Mor­mons "trading" (?), that is, a "Red" would take a horse and give Mr. Mormon a blanket for it and then make him throw in vegetables, melons, fruit, 6 c to boot. After getting all they wished, came back, crossing the river at this point 2 or 3 days ago, and now they have gone to Fort Defiance to receive their present from the government. Jacob Hamblin with a party of Mormons has gone to the fort and is trying to get a settlement with them there, so he left our pack train in charge of Capt. Dodge. They have been waiting for us ever since the 22nd of September; thought we were to be here on the 25th of Septem­ber. They had been up the river in search of us, thought that we were lost, 6 c and had concluded that if we were not here by the 9th that they would leave, so we came just in time. Our rations are flour, dried beef or jerky, bacon, sugar, tea, coffee, rice, dried peaches-nice ones raised out here in Utah, best I ever saw; also some figs raised here. They brought us in green apples, but packing them spoilt them and they had eaten the last in a dumpling for dinner today. The two fellows with the Capt. do not belong to the train but are merely staying to keep the Capt. company. They are miners and are seeking for gold in the canons of the Colorado, and therefore wanted to see the Maj. about it and the river. A little creek comes in here of pure "Camp was made at the mouth of a short stream now called Kane Creek, about a mile above the actual crossing, which was reached by descend­ing the narrow canyon of Padre Creek. Early U. S. Geological Survey maps show tiiis correctly; but through some mischance maps made since 1922 erroneously show the crossing to be at Kane Creek, an error copied by road, county and state maps. "Having faded to find die Dirty Devil River, Hamblin had been ordered to meet the expedition at die Crossing of the Fathers, where he had crossed several times on his way to the Hopi villages. Being asked to settle some Indian trouble he turned die supply train over to Capt. Pardyn Dodds. Two prospectors, George Riley and John Bonnemort, accompanied Dodds, hoping to learn of rich gold deposits in rock formations examined by Powell's men. They were disappointed but did find some fine placer gold in the river sands. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 343 cold water and one of them showed us how to "prospect" by getting a few grains of gold out of the sand by washing. Said that he could get $4 or $5 per day here, but that would not pay. Claims that somewhere among the rapids he can scoop up gold by the hat full and is bound to try it. They talk of going up to Cataract Canon. There are 7 horses in the train. The Maj. and Jack will leave us here to go to Salt Lake City. The rest of us go to the "Pahria" [Paria] 45 miles below here. We will be here about a week or 10 days and will be about 2 weeks going the 45 miles. Will there meet the pack train and then go to Kanab, (slowly working up the country as we go) our winter quarters. I sometimes get discouraged and utterly heartsick and wish I were at home. I do not think that I will see home before the 1st of September next. Maj. says that we will be 3 months going down Grand Caiion and another month in going up the Utah Valley to Salt Lake City. Of course the balance of the day we spent in looking over letters, papers, 6 c Had a smash­ing good supper. Have received photographic material and so picture-making will flourish once more. Ah me! I wish the trip was over with. Am feeling rather blue. Only one letter from home. Turned in at 9 o'clock. Oct. 7th. After breakfast Beaman and I pitched our tent and cut some tall willows to place around it, to make it cooler. Opened the photographic boxes and commenced biz. First will print a few pictures. Have been silvering paper during the fore­noon and in the afternoon printed some. Wrote my diary and reread my letters from Morris and Joe. Joe writes a good letter. Maj. told me privately "to keep on with my letter writing, that I must keep that going." Of course that pleased me. Told him that Morris remodeled my letters before they went to the Tribune. I gave him Morris' letter to read. Said "he was very glad I showed it to him, that it was very interesting." He presented us with a pair of breeches and shoes, there being 2 or 3 pair each extra. Gave me a pair each more-he is very kind. The Capt. is hurrying to get off his map, Steward his fossils, Fred his sketches and Beaman a few prints, by the Maj., so we are all very busy. We spread our blankets under the tent tonight for it has commenced to rain. It seems cozy to listen to the patter of the rain on the tent. Oct. 8th. After breakfast this morning I silvered some paper for printing and then copied the barometrical record for over a month back. It took me till 3 p.m. to finish it. Have had no time to write letters or anything else. The Maj. leaves tomorrow. After dinner helped Beaman with his pictures; will send 2 or 3 home. I am now writing my diary. Ah me! I would give anything to spend this Sabbath afternoon at home. Well, I see that I have about used up my diary and will send it out to Salt Lake and 344 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY home by the Maj. tomorrow morning. On looking over its pages find that they are not very tidy and greatly doubt whether it will come up to Morris' ideal of a diary. 'Tis poorly written and ill spelled I know. I have written it here and there by snatches in the boat and when ashore, while drying out after long hard portages, and waiting for dinner, and by the flickering firelight, sometimes when the boys are talking and laughing around me and sometimes by myself; when I feel blue and when feeling gay. Sometimes would be a week or 10 days behind and again kept up to the day. Often have felt like throwing diary and pencil into the river; on hearing the others read theirs, would feel ashamed to think that I have such a poor one. I have this con­solation, however, that in years to come it may prove a pleasure to me on looking over its pages. It is my first diary. I have noted the humdrum of our camp, the incidents and adventures, 6 c , but have given little, very little description of the beauti-full grand scenery we have passed through. It would take a Goethe to describe it. The views that I send home may give an idea, though one could spend months in taking photographs in any one caiion we have come through. I should not wonder but that some of the party would return home this winter. Steward received bad news from home stating that his wife was very sick; was not expected to live. He is worried. Beaman is getting sick of the whole thing. Andy thinks that no one has anything to do but him. In fact each one of the party thinks that their part the hardest of all, 6 c , 6 c , 6 c Bet your pile I won't back out till the Maj. does. The winter will pass away quickly I hope. The novelty of riding horseback will be gay-want to turn out an accomplished horseman. Will see a very large extent of coun­try and will meet and be with different tribes of Indians and will pick up a lot of curiosities, trinkets, 6 c for Frank and as mementoes of the trip. Kanab is 80 miles from the Colorado River. We will cache our boats at the mouth of the Pahria. The Maj. told us not to say where we cached the "Canonita"; if asked about it to say we left it above the San Juan; fears that it might be stolen or destroyed by the Indians if they should get hold of it. I am about done. I am sitting just outside of our tent as the sun is sinking behind a tall rocky butte to the right. Before me are sandstone cliffs 600 or 700 feet high. To the left the river goes winding in among buttes that stand a little back from the top of the walls. Andy is getting supper. Bish is cutting the Maj.'s hair. I feel strangely lonely this afternoon as I always do on Sundays. I will be so glad when the trip is over with. "Every cloud has a silver lining." The sun has just sunk behind the butte in a bank of clouds and sure enough they have a silver lining. I hope they are well and happy at home. Monument Caiion ends at the mouth of the Pahria. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 345 Well my diary, old fellow, good-bye. We part now. I hope that you will have a prosperous, safe journey to your home at Naperville, 1500 miles away. Tell the loved ones there that I think of them every day. Wish that I were with them, that the year that intervenes will soon roll around. I am, with profound respect, very truly your most obedient W. Clement Powell. Write me as soon as you receive this so that I will know whether it has gone safely. Will feel anxious about it. W. C. Powell Oct. 9th, 1871.68 Rose at 6:30. Weather very cold. Sharp frost last night and ice this morning; washing a duty instead of a pleasure. The Maj. has concluded not to start till tomorrow morning, giving the party a chance to write letters. Yesterday finished Volume No. 1 of my diary and wrote Morris a short letter. In the evening had a chat with Riley, the miner, about prospecting for gold and about the river we had passed through. Claims that he can get 4 or 5 dollars a day right here at the creek that runs just below camp but it would not pay, but that somewhere along the Colorado one can scoop out gold by the hat full, and is bound to find said place, 6 c He and Capt. Dodge intend building a boat at Uintah this winter and see what they can find in Lodore, Whirlpool and Craggy canons. Do not think they will accomplish much. Riley wants to go with us down Grand Caiion next spring. The Maj. kindly gave me an extra pair each of shoes and overalls. This morning I silvered a couple of dozen of printing papers for pictures and helped Beaman to print, 6 c Finished writing to Morris and one to Joe Kochly. Cut a lot of willows to put around and in our tent to make it pleasanter. Bish made a box to put in the negatives to be sent out to Kanab. Carried up a lot of wood for a fire to write by. Commenced a letter to Geo. Van Nest, but being tired and sleepy did not finish it and went to bed. The second volume of die diary, which here begins, has a title page as follows: TT Book II W. C. Powell Naperville, Dupage Co., Illinois "Assistant Photographer" U. S. Green and Colorado Rivers Exploring Expedition Maj. J. W. Powell, Commanding. 346 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY Oct. 10th. Cold this morning. Beaman gave us all a num­ber of pictures. Sent mine home, one to Dr. Chew. Did not have time to finish Van Nest's letter. Fred and I went out to help Capt. Dodge to bring up the horses; found them all but 4. Returned for breakfast. Gave Jack my diary, told him to take special care of it, told him what it was and that I would not have it lost for anything. Said he would do his best. Sealed my letters and bade Maj. and Jack good-bye. Sent out for a pair of blankets, a package of stamped envelopes, and thread. Am sorry that I did not send for an overcoat; I will sadly need one this winter I fear. Dodge told the Maj. to pack up and start as soon as he was ready with the train and that he would follow as soon as he found the other horses. So he, Fred and myself started out to hunt them, he going one way and me going another. Our way led over desolation, nothing but rock and sand, up and down, up and down. It was just like looking over a plain with here and there a distant butte. We finally struck them (the buttes) winding in and around them but saw nothing of the horses. We found a spring up a gulch and quenched our thirst. We looked in every direction with Fred's glass but could not see a living thing, and set out for camp. Just as we got to the cliff overhanging camp, saw the Maj. and party just coming up it with the train. It was pretty steep and it was a sight to see the animals go up it. One pack horse slipped down the whole thing; they had to unload him, carry the load to the top, then urge the horse up, and then reload him. Finally as they were disappearing around a mound of rock the Maj., Riley, John Bone-monte [Bonnemort] and Jack waved us an adieu. Spent the rest of the forenoon taking my ease, reading, 6 c At about 11% Capt. Dodge returned with horses all right, and after taking dinner with us he bade us farewell and once more we are alone, and party reduced to 8. I feel lonely. Ah well, a year will roll around some time and I pray a kind Heavenly Father that I may return to the dear old home again. Have cleaned glass all after­noon. Bish has cut Beaman's and Fred's hair. The Prof., Bish, Beaman and I start up the river tomorrow to take a few pictures and for topographical work. Spent the evening around the fire as usual. Oct. 11th. Steward is sick abed this morning. Spent a bad night. After breakfast we packed up our things and a couple of days' rations, unloaded the "Dean" and at 9:00 a.m. started up the river, all of us taking turns in rowing. Current not very strong except now and then. About a couple of miles up we stopped and by doing some tall climbing with the help of the rope found ourselves on top of the low cliff, but saw nothing of interest. Beaman and Prof, went one way and Bish and I another. Had a very pleasant time. Found pieces of arrowheads and some fine JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 347 specimens of chips, 6 c Said that he thought that Steward would leave on account of his family's health. We returned in about an hour's time and again pushed on up the river. Had some very hard work, 2 rowing while Prof, and I towed her up along the bank, and Anally at 12:45 reached the foot of a rapid and the end of our journey, thank fortune. Are about 5 miles from camp and about 1 mile below our dinner camp on the 6th. We landed on the left-hand bank. Bish and I got dinner, a good one you bet. After dinner Prof., Bish and Beaman started for a climb, leaving me to watch camp, wash dishes, 6 c Seeing a crow on a distant rock, shot at him; he of course flew off with a "caw." Beaman soon returned, did not care much about climb­ing out. After getting things shipshape around camp I put on some peaches to stew, then while watching them I reread letters from home, "Clarions," 6c, and toward evening gathered a lot of wood for supper and a fire at night, put the coffee kettle on to boil, 6 c Have got a good stew on peaches. Beaman fixed the beds for the party in the meanwhile. At about 5% Bish and Prof. came in. Bish and I got supper. Prof, said they had found an ancient Moquis (Aztec) stairway, or steps rather, cut into the solid rock where they climbed up and down the cliff or canon wall and also found picture writings, 6 c , cut in the walls. After supper Bish told us about Indian massacres, just to keep our courage up. We did, you bet, for we slept with our guns by our sides and dreamt of the Navajos. The night was very cold and windy. Oct. 12th. We got up pretty early this morning for we were cold. Soon we had a bright fire blazing and Bish and I com­menced getting breakfast. Bish made slap-jacks while I fried meat; had a gay meal. Prof, and Bish went out for a more ex­tended climb. Beaman gathered up the bedding while I washed the dishes, 6 c , around camp. We then packed the boat and dropped down % a mile around the bend to take a picture look­ing down the river. I soon had the dark tent up and Beaman took a couple of fine views. We then repacked and waited and read for the return of Prof, and Bish. At about 11 % we saw them coming and rowed up the river to meet them. We con­cluded to have dinner there and then pull for camp. W e soon had a good dinner dispatched and at 2:00 started out. It had now begun to blow a perfect gale from down the canon and soon the waves were rolling. Pulling against a head wind is no fun. The air was chilly and the wind blew the cold water in a shower of drops over us, but riding the waves was an enjoyment. We reached camp at 3:30, found Steward decidedly worse and in much pain, but everything else as usual. Cut a lot of willows for a bed. Cleaned my gun out thoroughly. Prof, gave Capt. Dodge his gun for services rendered, and Bish traded his Spencer 348 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY to him for a revolver. That reduces the number of guns in the party to 6-4 Winchesters and 2 Henrys, the former 17 shooters, the latter 16 shooters. We gathered a lot of wood for an evening fire. I do not feel very well. After supper spent the time read­ing and talking with the rest of the boys around a cheerful camp-fire. Oct. 13th. Last evening as I was going to bed a few drops of rain came pattering down on the tent, but it was too cold to rain and soon stopped. This morning found ice all around camp wherever a little water was standing. After breakfast oiled my gun to keep it from rusting. Prof, and Beaman went back on the cliffs to find some views. We will start out this afternoon to take them. Steward is no better-is in a good deal of pain; tried to sit up but had to give it up and go back to bed again in a few minutes. Rearranged my sacks [sic] 6c, and filled my gun with cartridges, and since I have been writing my diary from the beginning. 'Tis a task to keep a diary. Prof, and Bish climbed out, returned at 12 M. Could not reach the top. Beaman packed a box with some extra chemicals and he and I buried it. Dug a hole under a cliff, put the box in it, then covered it over with ground. After dinner Prof, and Bish started out again. Have taken hammer and chisel to cut steps with to climb up. Beaman, Fred and I started out up the creek's bed to take views. 'Tis a canon on a small scale, the walls are very narrow and overhang-are arching in fact. The sun never enters. At the head a small thread-like stream falls down about 50 feet, forms a pool and then flows on. Can only see a small strip of sky at the top, 100 feet high. We took a couple of fine views. Fred amused himself sinking in the quicksand that forms the bottom of the creek. We packed up and left Fred gathering cat-tails to make him a pillow. Went up on top of the cliffs and took a couple of fine negatives of the surrounding country and then returned to camp at 4:00 p.m. Read till supper time. Prof, and Bish came in at 5:00; had had a hard climb. Saw Mt. Seneca Howland in a snow storm, in fact Bish said that the clouds were resting on her top. It has been a dull, cheer­less, drear November day, bleak and desolate. Just the kind of day to make one think of home and its enjoyments. We gathered around the fire, roasting one side and freezing the other, talking, joking and smoking till one by one we drop off to our blankets. Bish and Andy and I are left alone by the blazing fire. I help Bish with his 9:00 observation and then he drops off. Jones and Andy had a row and have separated and sleep alone. I feel sorry for Andy-he has only one pair of blankets for these cold nights. Oct. 14th, Ice % an inch thick this morning, and after us fellows did get from out our blankets did not stop long before JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 349 we were around the breakfast fire. Steward is about the same; spent rather a bad night. After breakfast Prof, and Bish started out for another climb, will be back by noon. The rest of us are reading the papers, 6 c Washed my shirt and put on a clean one, mended my vest, 6 c About 11:00 a.m. we heard a war-whoop and on looking up saw (what afterwards proved to be) a couple of Navajo Indians. We beckoned them down and we watched them through a glass. They were soon in camp-an old man 60 or 70 years old and a boy not more than 14 or 15. Jones stepped forth in all dignity. The old man went up to him and embraced by laying his cheek against Jones's. Methought I saw a strong family resemblance between them. We took them into the wickiup where Steward was lying, smoked the pipe of peace, or I should say smoked a cigarette. They had some gay cigarette wrappers made out of dried corn husks. Each was armed with bow and arrows, the boy's however not amounting to much, but the old man's was one that had done and would do service either good or bad. Arrows were pointed with keenly sharpened iron heads and were gaily decorated with feathers. Also had a wicked looking knife; had a fine quiver made from marten furs; both had on splendid moccasins and leggins of tanned deer skin and painted gaily; were fastened afi thej knees by handsome red garters; had on white knee breeches fastened by a belt and white canvas shirt. Each had on a leather bracelet; the old man wore an old hat, the boy a turban. Gave the boy an old hat that Steward had thrown away; was tickled. They were both fine looking Indians, intelligent and kindly. The man must have been a noble looking fellow when younger. He took out 2 or 3 letters and gave them to us. They stated that he was a chief among the Navajos, was friendly to the whites and that he and his band were going to the Mormons to trade, 6 c Signed by Hamblin and the commander at Fort Defiance; also said that his name was "Agua Grande," meaning "great water," and that the boy was his son, 6 c He could not speak a word of English. Finally told us by signs that there were 7 more back on the cliff with "caballos" (horses). Sent his son to call them in. We heard him whooping and soon returned. Dinner being ready we, Indians and all, pitched in. At its conclusion the chief said "wano! wano! wano!" (good! good! good!) and seemed per­fectly satisfied with his treatment. As they were about leaving Prof, and Bish came in, and they had an embracing time of it, 6c. Prof, wrote a letter to Fred Hamblin to meet us at the Pahria on the 25th inst. instead of the 1st of November as was the calculation. The change was made on account of Steward's sickness. In the course of their (the Indians') wanderings it may reach Kanab. Shortly afterwards we saw the other 7 In- 350 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY dians on horseback (mustangs) come riding down the hill. Among them was an ugly looking squaw. They dismounted in front of the wickiup, unloaded, 6 c Had several fine blankets of their own manufacture; 2 or 3 of them were old men, the rest young, all dressed nearly as their chief, though very dirty. One of them wore a moustache and one comical looking fellow had a couple of dilapidated looking feathers in his hat. The old chief gathered them around him. In the scene that ensued did not take a hand but it reminded me more of the cackle of a lot of Dutch geese than anything else; it was a gabble, gabble, gabble. We gave them some dinner. The men sat on their haunches in a circle while the squaw waited on them. The Prof, said that we would pack up and drop down the river 4 or 5 miles where there was more wood. It took us about an hour to pack up everything and get the boats ready. I was transferred to the "Dean." The Indians sat on the bank in a row looking at us, gravely talking among themselves in their jargon, making comments on our water ponies, I suppose. When we were ready to start we shook hands with them. I told the young fellow to give my love to all the folks. He answered "Oui." Shoving off into the stream we waved hats and bade them once more farewell. They answered with a whoop. We soon lost sight of them around the bend. In 5 or 10 minutes we passed the "Crossing of the Fathers,"*8 the only known ford "In 1776 Fadiers Escalante and Dominguez from Santa Fe, entered we present State of Utah, crossing Green River near Jensen. Passing west through the Uinta Basin, they reached Utah Lake, then turned south, intending to continue to Monterey in California. When northwest of Parowan, they de­cided to return to Santa Fe and after many difficulties reached die Colorado at what is now Lees Ferry, at the mouth of die Paria. Unable to cross, tiiey turned upstream seeking a ford long used by Indians. It was found at die mouth of what is now known as Padre Creek, where Julius F. Stone's 1938 ex­pedition placed a marker. Steps cut in die wall of Padre Canyon by Escalante himself were discovered by Dr. R. G. Frazier in 1940. Trading expeditions from New Mexico later cut a long series of steps in die north wall of Padre Canyon, which were seen and used by Jacob Hamblin, who had crossed here four times before 1869. The ford, running diagonally downstream, was once marked by piles of stones, as shown by a sketch in Wheeler's Report (Re­port upon United States Geographical Surveys West of the One Hundredth Meridian, in charge of Capt. Geo. M. Wheeler . . . Washington, 1889, vol. 1, Geographical Report, p. 53). Dr. Frazier and I found no trace of such markers at low water in 1939. Knowledge of the crossing and the name applied to it seems to have persisted from common knowledge in the Soutiiwest ratiier than from any documentary cause. "El Vado de los Padres" was perhaps first represented on a government map in 1861, die map accompanying Cap­tain John N. Macomb's account of his expedition in 1859 from Santa Fe to the vicinity of the junction of the Grand and Green rivers, printed in the "Annual Report of the Chief of Topographical Engineers" for 1860 and 1861. In a letter to me, Dellenbaugh said he believed Powell was informed of this crossing by Hamblin, but Powell knew of it at least by name on his first expedition of 1869, as die diaries of that expedition demonstrate, and at JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 351 on the Colorado River. A stand bank and a riffle lie midway in the stream. The trail on the left bank winds down from the cliffs. On the right bank it enters a narrow canon and disappears from view. The current is rather swift here; walls are from 300 to 600 feet high, perpendicular on one side and sloping back on the other, with now and then a butte shooting from the top. Dropped down about 3 miles and landed at 5:15 for the night on the left bank. Plenty of wood, plenty of willows and plenty of sand. Soon a fire is built, boats unpacked and willows cut, beds made and supper ready, and of course that is soon demolish­ed. Then we gather a lot of wood, build a good fire, around which we group, and read, and smoke. Getting tired of that we talk about our late visitors, the Indians. That knotty question solved, we all turn in at 9:00 p.m. Oct. 15th. Sunday morning again. Ah me! I wish I were at home today. 'Tis one of those lovely golden October days that Winthrop describes so finely. I wonder if they are thinking of me so far away. Spent the morning in reading around the fire. We are camped on our usual sandbank under­neath a tall cliff just below the bend that hides the Crossing of the Fathers. Back of us is the bank proper with any amount of driftwood. Had beef soup for dinner. After dinner Prof, asked me if I could take some views looking up the river. Told him that I could; so getting Fred to help me with the boxes put them up and took 4 fine ster[e]os looking up the river. Prof, and Jones crossed the river and climbed out. Steward is not any better and says he intends going home as soon as we reach Kanab. He has not much "vim"; is down in the mouth, cross and peevish. Had beef soup for supper, 'tis good. Prof, thought that I had done finely on pictures. Built a cheerful fire around which we read, wrote and talked. Bish and I sat up till 10 o'clock writing up our diaries.™ Oct. 16th. After breakfast this morning I took a view look­ing up the river. By the time we had the boats packed 'twas 9:30 a.m. Shoved off and once more commenced our winding way. The walls on one side are vertical from the water and are about 400 or 500 feet in height. On the right bank they are low, more sloping and rounded, cut at the top by gullies. Are composed of dark or old red sandstone beautifully colored by broad bands of black where the water has poured over them that time he apparently had not met Hamblin. The source of Hamblin's own knowledge of the Crossing does not appear. He may have learned of it from the Indians without at first knowing the name applied to it in the Spanish Soutiiwest.-C.K. "So far as known, Bishop did not keep a diary between September 17 and November 18. If kept on loose sheets, these may have been lost before being recopied in his journal. 352 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY from the top. We ran several rapids without trouble. The scenery is rather tame compared with Cataract Canon, though to other eyes it would seem grand, no doubt. The river winds this way and that; sometimes we pass a pretty little island cov­ered with verdure that now is putting on its autumnal dress and reminds us that the year is fast passing away; and again an island or rather sandbank covered with pebbles that at high water would be covered and would form a rapid. Landed on right-hand bank at 12:10 for dinner. We gather a litde wood together, barely enough to make fire for dinner with, but all there was. Found a beaver house and dam. The old beavers swam away however before we could get a shot at them. Steward is about the same, grumbling at everything and every­body.' 1 Helped Andy wipe the dishes. Pulled out again at 2:15 p.m. Ran a rapid or two, nothing of importance. No pictures worth taking-no nothing. We landed at 4:00 p.m. at the entrance to a gulch on the left bank for the night. Had to cut our way (after climbing up a steep bank) through the willows to camp among the sagebrush beyond. Instead of sand we had grass, for a wonder. Prof, climbed out while we were getting supper. Beaman, Jones, Fred and I had a sweet time collecting wood from out of the willows. We finally gathered a lot of it how­ever; cut willows for our beds. The nights are very cool to say the least. Prof, returned at dark. Will stay here part of tomorrow. Toasted bread for supper. We have a very pleasant camp, sheltered from the wind by sagebrush and willows. Turned in at 9 o'clock. Oct. 17th. This morning after breakfast the Prof., Bish and Fred climbed out up the gulch and I set up the dark tent on the main cabin of the "Dean" and proceeded to get things ready for some views looking up the river. Had trouble unscrewing the bath holder; had to oil the screw and I took a couple of fine views looking up the river; boats and Jones made an interesting fore­ground, but unfortunately in trying to intensify them (the views) the whole film came off, much to my sorrow, for they were the finest pictures I have yet taken. The light not being good at this time, I packed up the boxes and repacked the boat. By "More sympathetically Clem writes in his letter of November 15 (Chicago Tribune. February 27, 1872): Mr. J. F. Steward, die assistant geologist, being unable to leave his blankets, we made a bed upon die main cabin of die "Nell" and lashed him upon it. We heartily sympathized widi the sufferer. An enthusiast in geology and its kindred sciences. Steward has found in this journey rare opportunities for die pursuit of his favorite studies. Continually absorbed in scientific investigation, making collections and drawings of fossils, measuring cliffs and studying strata-he has been constantly active; now, worn with work and exposure, he is obliged to give up. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 353 this time dinner was ready; Prof., Bish and Fred were in camp. After dinner Beaman took a view while I was getting the bedding ready, and at 2:10 started out. Yesterday we made 10% miles. The scenery in Monument Canon is not varied; the walls however are now about 600 feet vertical on both sides and increasing in height as we go. The canon is growing narrower and seems more like a caiion, though there is no great amount of views to be taken. We spent the time chiefly in rowing, singing and talking. We landed on the left bank at 4:30 for the night among the rocks and sand; found a few willows and cut them. Bish built a fire on a big flat rock as the wind was from all directions we thought. Sat around it, were well smoked. We mildly talked with Bish on the simpleness of building fires on flat rocks. He only said, "Pile on your abuse." Fred cooked a lot of corn starch for supper; it was gay; was not much left of it in 5 or 10 minutes you bet. The Prof, tried to get a joke off on me about being pious, a true Christian, and the best shortstop in Dupage County, 6 c , 6 c Have made 6% miles. Sat around the fire till 8:30, then all turned in. Oct. 18th. Beaman took several views looking down the caiion after breakfast. Did not break up camp till 10:45 and then started out. Dropped down around the bend about a mile when we came to what we called afterwards Sentinel Creek and camped on right bank. At the mouth of the gulch is a huge solitary slab of rock originally part of the canon wall but now detached from it, and just ready to fall into the river. Twill form a fearful rapid; 'tis about 15 feet thick, 300 or 400 feet in height and 60 to 75 feet wide.72 From down the gulch a stream of pure cold water comes winding down. Beaman and Prof, went to examine it; they soon called to us to bring up the boxes, so Fred and I shouldered them and had them set up in the gulch ready for "biz." The walls are steep, vertical and winding, are about 500 feet high and 100 broad. The creek comes tumbling over the pebbles in miniature cataracts and rapids; on the bank a dense growth of willows, 6 c I took a couple of good views, Fred being my assistant. Beaman and Prof, killed a rattlesnake nearby. By the time we reached camp found dinner ready. We are camped on the sand; have built a wickiup for Steward. After dinner Prof, and Fred tried to climb up out of the gulch but returned in a couple of hours and said it was "wormy." While Beaman was taking views I amused myself by cleaning and polishing 25 glass 'under a paulin. Bish near me, platting his map. Did not quite finish my glass before dark. Helped Beaman to make our beds and the wickiup. After supper built a fire in front of the tent. Spent a "Sentinel Rock still stands. The creek is now called Wahweap. 354 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY pleasant evening reading, 6 c Jones has a very bad leg. Steward is no better but has succeeded finally in making himself a perfect fool by his boorishness and crossness. Swears at anyone that does anything for him, or does not; it makes not the slightest difference. There are few, very few in this party that deserve the title of gentleman. It is constantly a wrangle and chin music from morning till night. Ah me! I will be glad when the trip is over with. Turned in at 8:30 p.m.78 Oct. 19th. Rose early and finished cleaning the glass be­fore breakfast. We finally started out at 9:15, the river wind­ing, the walls reaching up 1000 or 1200 feet perpendicular and narrower; are seamed and scarred. Current is fair. We landed on the left bank for dinner at about noon on a lot of rocks and sand, Steward grumbling all the time. Soon we collected enough wood for dinner. Prof, said he wanted me to take some views, so getting Bish for my assistant went up the river a short distance and took a couple of fair negatives. Returned by dinner time. Started out again at 2:15, ran down 2 or 3 miles and landed for the night on left bank at 3:00 p.m. Our camp in the middle of a bend and on a sand bank. Of course we crossed the river to take some views; I took 3 or 4 looking up and down the canon. The Prof, brought in a yucca stalk 20 feet long. Recrossed the river when Fred and I found that we had left our guns on the other side. Took the "Emma" and went after them. Had "farina" for supper. Have made 6% miles today. Spent the evening as usual around the fire, read­ing, writing, talking and smoking. Turned in at 9:00 p.m. Oct. 20th. After breakfast this morning Beaman took a view looking up the canon, while I fixed some developer, filtering, 6 c Finally broke up camp at 9:30 a.m., and started out against a strong headwind that kicked up quite a sea. After twist­ing and turning for about 3 miles stopped on the right bank to take a view of the opposite wall. The "Nell" dropped down % of a mile and camped for dinner on the opposite bank and on a sandbank, the sand blowing in all directions. While I was trying to put up the dark tent the infernal thing blew over almost, spilling about % of the bath, and finally got things to work. Could only coat 4/5ths of the plate on account of the bath. Managed to get a view. Loaded up and dropped down to the "Ndl." While eating dinner diluted our food fully % by mixing it with sand. After dinner and the 2:00 observa­tion, dropped down a couple of miles, pulling hard against a strong headwind that came sweeping up the canon. The "Nell" ran aground. Camped at 3:30 on the left bank for the night. The Prof, wants to climb out at the gulch that comes down at "On any river voyage so long and arduous as this, men get on each others' nerves, and sentiments such as Clem here expresses are not uncommon. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 355 this place.™ There is plenty of driftwood and a good camp among the willows and sage bushes and grass, thank fortune. We set fire to the grass and allowed part of it to burn off and then built our camp-fire, gathered a lot of wood, 6 c Cut some willows and made our beds. Found traces of Indians and horses that had camped here this summer. The trail goes winding up the side of the gulch. Also found an old house made of stones, poles and grasses. The walls here are about 1000 feet high and almost perpendicular on both sides. Are seamed and scarred with many a crevice and projection. We are only 3 or 4 miles from the Pahria, the end of this year's travel by water. 'Tis like a winter night, so dreary and everything looks so desolate. The wind sweeps in gusts up the caiion moaningly. We gathered closely around the cheerful fire. Helped Bish take the 9:00 p.m. observation. Oct. 21st. This morning after breakfast Prof., Bish and Fred started to climb out while I went to work to make a new bath; the rest reading and writing. Steward is getting better and Jones's leg worse; can hardly walk on it. By the time I had the bath ready 'twas dinner time. We could plainly hear the boys firing up on the mountain and could hear the echoes as they rolled from cliff to cliff; they are very fine indeed. Took the 2:00 p.m. observation and then took 3 views. Prof, and party came in at 2:20. Said that they could plainly see the Pahria River and Marble Caiion; said that there was a grove, a good camp, 6 c Beaman took a view of Steward and I a view of Andy and the camp. Packed up the boxes and had a good supper of beef soup, 6 c , then gathered a lot of wood, built a good fire and spent our time in reading till 9 o'clock. Our evenings are very pleasant. Prof., Bish, Jones and Fred are good company. But Steward has lost the respect of all by his infernal crossness. Oct. 22nd. Spent the forenoon in reading and writing my diary. Have not written a word in it since last Sunday. Prof, and Beaman went up the gulch to find some views. We got to firing at a mark on the caiion wall; the excitement grew and some 30 or 40 shots were wasted. My gun shoots splendidly. After dinner Beaman and I went up the gulch; we took 3 fine views. As the gulch is % a mile down the river, after packing the boxes we left them on the rocks covered up by the rubber blanket and will pick them up in the morning as we go down in the boats. On returning to camp went to work on my diary and here I am lying out at full length on the bed. Supper almost ready (going to have corn starch pudding for supper you bet) and it is 5:15. I wonder what the folks at home are doing just now. I wonder if they are thinking of me. I hardly 'The gulch was Navajo Creek. 356 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY think they have received my letter, diary and pictures that I sent out at the Crossing; they may though be reading them. Read till supper time. Steward is better but Jones is sick abed with a bad leg. Had a good supper, soup chief dish. Turned in at 9:00. Oct. 23rd. After breakfast this morning loaded the boats. Jones is worse, had to change places with Steward, the latter taking the chair, the former lying on the main hatch of the "Nell." The "Emma" started out first, dropped down to where we had left the boxes last night, and after wading up to my neck in mud, got them aboard. Just around the bend the walls are fully 1500 feet in height on the right hand; on the other bank. 'Tis broken into low bluffs, valleys and gulches over which the trail leads to the Moquis Indians.76 The river is very quiet and smooth. As we rounded the next bend came in sight of the Pahria-the end of our journey by river this year. On the right bank found the old boat that the Maj. and party used last year to cross here on their way to the Moquis; the name of it was the "Cafion Maid" with W. H. G. (initials of Walter H. Graves who was with the Maj. last year). We landed, examined it, found fresh tracks around it and also signs that it had been used lately.78 We then dropped down to the head of the Pahria % of a mile away, landed on a sand bank and fastened our boats to the willows 25 yards back, then cut a road through them and made camp in the midst of a dense growth of willows. Bish, Steward, Beaman, and my wickiups are on the side of the trail. Jones, Andy and Fred's are a few feet above us. The kitchen is opposite and Prof.'s is still farther beyond. We have trails leading to all of them. So you see we have a pretty pleasant, cozy camp; are protected from the sun and wind, 6 c Just back of camp and against the cliff is the remains of an old house made of straw, sticks and stones, and on the cliff is the remains of the old fort." This place and the Crossing of the Fathers above, used to be the crossing where the Navajos used to drive stolen stock and sheep from the Mormons to their country. A lot of Navajos came over a few years ago and drove off a flock of 600 sheep, drove them down here, waited till the river was frozen and crossed them over on ice. The Mormons in following their trail discovered the mouth of the Pahria. Since, they have kept a guard of men at each place to intercept the Indians on their This old zig-zag trail, on die left bank just above Lees Ferry, is some­times still used by Navajos. "The barge which Powell built to cross the river in 1870. Timbers of this heavy craft may still be seen in the walls of John D. Lee's original cabin at Lees Ferry. "The "old fort" refers to an Indian ruin on top of a high knoll, often er­roneously called "Lee's Fort." JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 357 raids; but last year they succeeded in making a treaty with them and the guards were discontinued. After bringing up our baggage, 6 c , 'twas dinner time. After dinner mended my breeches, 6 c Read and wrote till supper time. After supper we gathered a lot of driftwood and built a cheerful fire around which we sat talking, smoking, reading and writing and speculat­ing when the train would be in. All turned in at 9:00 p.m. Oct. 24th. After breakfast thought I would take a look around camp. Went up the valley of the Pahria only a mile and a half long when it closes up with lofty ridges and peaks; in fact 'tis only a little lateral caiion with the Pahria River running through it. The stream itself is about 4 feet wide and 6 inches deep. We are camped at the head of Marble Canon and at the end of Monument, also at the head of a rapid 3 miles long, so Jack Sumner says in his diary. Did some washing and mending before dinner. After dinner set up the dark tent and made a couple of fine negatives looking up the river. Spent the evening as usual. Oct. 25th. Put a back to my vest, darned some stockings, 6 c Fred is finishing up his sketches. Prof, and Bish are taking observations for latitude and longitude. Steward and Jones abed trying to be sick, Beaman reading here by my side in the wickiup and Andy superintending the kitchen. 'Tis dull, quiet and monotonous. After dinner took a good bath in the river, put on clean clothes and feel better. Oct. 26th. Prof, and Fred took a climb up the mountains back of camp. Mixed up some developer, cy[a]nide sulphuret, filtered bath and put a package of glass in to cy[a]nide to soak. After dinner washed and polished them. Prof, and Fred re­turned at 3:00 p.m. Read in afternoon and evening. Spent a pleasant time with Bish and Fred around the camp-fire. Oct. 27th. After breakfast Beaman and I carried the boxes up on the cliff. Beaman, after pointing out several views, re­turned to camp. I put up the tent and made 3 fair views looking up the Pahria Valley. Went down to dinner (leaving the boxes up there) after which returned and made 5 more views in differ­ent directions. Returned by supper time, leaving the boxes up there over night. Beaman, Prof, and I amused ourselves by firing at a mark. Turned in at 10:00 p.m. Oct. 28th. There have been several wolves [coyotes] prowling around camp mornings, and Fred has tried to shoot them but 'twas no go. After breakfast Bish and I went back on the hill, Bish to put up the flag and I to photograph. After the flag was up Bish went on up the Pahria Valley. When I was about through heard a whoop on the other side of the river. On looking across saw a band of Navajos on horses. It did not take me long to pack up and bring the things down. On 358 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY reaching camp Prof, introduced me to Jacob Hamblin (Prof, and Fred had brought him over in the boat) and found that it was Jacob Hamblin's party on their return from the Moquis, consist­ing of himself, a Mr. Haight and a George and Joe somebody,'8 and also had brought over a band of Navajos, 9 in number, with a lot of blankets that they intend to trade off to the Mormons for horses, 6 c Fred and I bailed out the water from the "Neil" and with Prof, and Hamblin in the "Dean," crossed over to bring Navajos, ponies, traps and all. After getting blankets, bridles, saddles, 6 c over and part of the Navajos, had sweet time in getting the ponies. Each boat would take 2 at a time, i.e., 2 of us at the oars, one in the stern holding onto the lariats and holding up the heads of the ponies as they swam behind. Some swam across on their own hook; one or two that we were leading over would have gone up [under?] if their heads were not held up. As it was they were towed over by main strength. All were about played out by the time that they reached this shore. In crossing here last summer they lost one horse by drowning and going over the falls. The Navajos were rather timid about coming over in the boats; one fellow stripped and tried to swim across, but the water being very chilly it soon benumbed him, and he would have sunk if the "Nell," in going over on another trip, had not have picked [him up] in mid stream. We, i.e., Fred and I, brought over the last load of the Navajos. They are a fine looking set of fellows, tall, well-built and intelligent. They are the Indians of the West and can more than hold their own against the rest. The nation numbers about 15,000 and are at peace now with the government and the Mormons. The present band here is headed by their chief "Koneto," a middle-aged, noble looking man. Their dress is a light cotton shirt and breeches, leggins and moccasins. They have quite a number of splendid blankets of their own manufacture. I am going to try to get one at Kanab. Were armed with bows and arrows; the chief in addition carried a pistol. We gave them a good dinner. The coffee especially brought out the "wanos." After dinner we set up the tent to take a picture of them, but finding that we were out of acetic acid, had to give it up. Seeing a duck in the river shot it with my rifle which greatly pleased them. I then gave them some tobacco and we all smoked the cigarettes of peace. Bish, Fred and Andy prepared a big supper for all hands and when it was ready all hands turned in and did it justice. After supper we built up the fire, smoked and talked "Hamblin was returning from the Navajo country after concluding a treaty of peace on behalf of Mormon settlers. His companions were Isaac C. Haight, George Adair, and Joe Mangum, all of whom had been participants in die Mountain Meadows Maasacre in 1857, Haight having said to be prin­cipally responsible. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 359 awhile and finally got the Indians to sing songs for us. Some of their chants were rather pretty, and then persuaded all of the Indians to dance while the chief paddled away on the bottom of an inverted camp kettle. All of us, white and red, joined hands and danced around the fire, the Indians singing war songs. We had a gay time and lots of fun. The Navajos seem to be a free hearted, social, chatty, intelligent set and instead of being the stoics that popular tradition makes the Indian, it is the reverse. They laughed as heartily at our blunders in the war dance as we did at them. Suddenly they all started up and made for their blankets. Mr. Hamblin and the rest of us sat up, Mr. H. and the others relating to us their Mormon experiences and singing to us Mormon songs, 6 c Mr. H. will leave us some of the finest beans I ever saw; they are Mormon beans; instead of being white, of a reddish brown color.™ We set a pot of them to boil­ing and will have them in the morning. Will also leave us some Moquis peaches, 6 c Oct. 29th. Rose early and helped to get breakfast, which being ready in a short time was soon dispatched, the beans going down with a relish by all. Mr. Hamblin and party started out after breakfast, first driving up the horses and then packing them. Steward traded his canteen off for a water jug, Fred his cap for a plume, Beaman gave them his old hat, and I gave one of them my B. B. [baseball] cap, but it being to[o] small for him he looked so comical in it that it raised a storm of laughter from all. The poor fellow jerked it off and stuffed it in his blanket saying "cotch-wano" [not good]. When all was ready we shook hands all around and bade them good-bye. The Prof, told them to hurry our train up, that we were wearily waiting for it. Our work is all done but caching the boats. They soon disappeared up the trail and we were once more left alone. Have been reading and now 'tis dinner time. After dinner we read, took a row up the river a litde way. Bish and Fred went bathing in the Pahria. We are short on provisions and unless the train comes in soon will be hard up. Prof., Bish, Fred, Andy and I spent the evening pleasantly around the fire. Oct. 30th. After breakfast cleaned and oiled my gun. We then commenced caching what things we did not want to take to Kanab. I cached a pair of overalls, a couple of pairs of shoes, a shirt, some stockings, 6 c Beaman cached our chemical box, cached empty sacks, clothing, 6 c Dug % dozen holes in the ground and buried the things in them, the holes being at different places among the rocks. After dinner crossed the river in the boats and cached the "Emma" by the side of a big rock, "Dellenbaugh calls these "Mexican" rather tiian "Mormon" beans, and this was most likely correct. 360 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY Fred and I digging a trench for her. All had a fearful tug in getting the boat up the steep bank. Of course Steward com­menced growling, when Prof, went for him and told him he was sick of hearing him growl, 6 c , 6 c It being sunset by the time we had got her into her place, left her till the next day to cover her up with willows, 6 c Andy hurt his back in lifting; helped him to get supper and wipe the dishes. Steward being mad, refused to eat, although the Prof, carried some to him. He has lost the respect of the party by his constant growling. Oct. 31st. Spent all forenoon in building a shelter against a huge rock back of camp for the "Nell." Cut logs and put them against the rock and then piled willows on top of them. Will not put the boat into it till the train comes in, when there will be more to help carry it. It is too much of a lug for 6 men, Steward and Jones being played. After dinner we crossed the river, cut a lot of willows, 6 c , completely covered the "Emma" so that neither rain nor snow can get to her; returned in about an hour. Have been reading my letters and now am writing my diary. Ah me, I wish the train would come in. We are all growing impatient for our mail, and this forced inactivity is growing wearisome. We are having splendid moonlight evenings now, the moon looks fine in coming over yonder cliff. Bish, Fred, Andy, Prof, and myself sit up till 9 or 10 o'clock around the fire enjoying the scene. Nov. 1st, [1871], Have been expecting the train in all day long but nary a train so far. We have been having splendid weather, thank fortune. Have done nothing but read; have finished "Macbeth." Spent evening pleasantly by the fire. Nov. 2nd. Just after breakfast a Mr. Mangy [Mangum] came riding into camp reporting the train back some 8 or 10 miles in the mountains. Said that they had started out from Kanab a week ago Monday but had lost their way and had hard work to find water, 6 c ; that he had pushed on ahead to find a way down to the mouth of the Pahria;80 had left the train yesterday morning and had had nothing to eat since; camped a little way up the Pahria last night. After eating a hearty break­fast started back again. Told us not to expect the train in be­fore tomorrow afternoon. Read the part of "King John"; like it. Read most of the afternoon. Capt. cut my hair and lent me his "Although traveled by Major Powell in 1870 when he visited die Hopi villages, the trail from Kanab was not well marked. An inscription near Lees Ferry indicates that Al Huntington and C. E. Holladay had been there in 1857; Hamblin had visited die place several times. Paria settlement had just been established on the Paria River 30 miles above tiiis camp, off die direct route to Kanab. The first wagons crossed here in 1873. See also Dr. Gregory's note, p. 105.