Utah Historical Quarterly Volume XVI - XVII

Journal of John F. Steward, edited by William Culp Darrah - 1

JOURNAL OF JOHN F. STEWARD May 22 - November 3, 1871 Edited by William Culp Darrah Green River City, May 22, 1871. We left Green River City this morning at 10 o'clock; a few citizens were on hand to witness our departure. The boats, 3 in number, each 22 feet in length, about 4 feet in breadth and 2 feet in depth, moved in the following order: The "Emma Dean" in the lead, Major Powell in command; S. V. Jones, Fred Dellen­baugh and J. K. Hillers constituting the crew. We followed: Professor1 Thompson, F. M. Bishop, Frank C. A. Richardson and I, the crew of the "Nellie Powell." The "Canonita" came next with E. O. Beaman, Andy Hattan and Clement Powell. We have run 8 miles and are camped in a little valley, very fertile and having a few trees, with cliffs on either side that gradually rise, until a half mile down stream they seem to be a thousand feet high. The strata are probably of miocene tertiary. We have found scales and other fragments of saurians, and also several fresh­water fossil shells, melanias, paludinas, unios and others. Just beneath the shales we find a thin seam of coal, the quality of which we cannot determine without pick and shovel. May 23. Upon awakening, at 4:30, we found rain falling, but it soon resulted in snow, and all the forenoon we were held in camp. About 10 o'clock the rain slackened a little and I took Section, my number 2; also collected some fine fossils from the locality visited last night, including more saurian remains. We left camp just after dinner and have run about 6% miles. The strata is still dipping to the west, but the course of the river has been such as to make the dip appear to be with the stream. We have seen some of the grandest scenery I have ever beheld. After running a mile we came to a vast amphitheater in the hills, rising from the river, which has cut into the bluffs a regular curve, leaving abrupt precipices not far from a thousand feet high. The strata, being of different colors, show beautifully in the sunlight and look as a thousand rainbows might if lying upon edge, one above the other. The beauties of the scene along the river are grand indeed. We camped tonight upon the north side in a small cottonwood grove. Beavers, though not in sight, are evidently abundant. This we judge from the many fallen trees. Some are 2 feet in diameter and seem to have been cut The copyist may have taken liberties with die title of Prof. Thompson. It is here written out "Professor" but he was never called Professor but always just Prof.-F.S.D. 182 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY with ease. We shall have fresh fish for breakfast, the boys having caught about a dozen large and fine ones, of a species not familiar to me, but here called white fish. May 24. Started this morning at 7; came 4 miles and stopped for dinner at one o'clock. Ran 4 miles this afternoon and have camped for night at Black's Fork. The scenery of the day has continued most beautiful. Leaving our camp, which was be­tween 2 high buttes about 800 feet high, we moved for a distance east and soon plunged into a ragged country. All boats stopped about 9 o'clock to give the photographer, E. O. Beaman, time to take what we have chosen to call "Dial Butte" (a name sug­gested by me). The butte on the other side of the river we have called "Needle Butte." About these are bluffs and precipices. Dial Butte is situated upon a high cone about 600 feet above the river. It is regularly cylindrical, about 200 feet high and 100 feet in diameter, capped with sandstone number 14 of my Green River Section, Number I (the floral sandstone)." Needle Butte is similarly situated upon a rocky cone, of about the same height, and looked more like a "stack-pole" in a grain stack than any­thing I can liken it to. The "stack-pole" is about 25 feet in diameter and 250 feet high and is beautifully colored, the strata varying from black through brown to light drab. It is safe to say that it has never been climbed, and never will be. It reminds one of the tottering trunk of a dead tree, only awaiting a gust of wind to throw it from its giddy height into the valley. It is surmounted by the same sandstone as the "Dial," and the shaly strata beneath being quite soft, it must succumb at the time the harder rock above yields to the elements. We mounted the summit of the cone and found the fishbed at that point much more prolific than at Green River City. We obtained some fine fossils from the base of the "Needle." The topographers were given a splendid opportunity to view the count [r]y and add greatly to their sketches. We have passed through no stratum today above or below the section already taken. The strata have been gently undulated, but the general dip toward the west has persisted. Our course has been about midway between dip and strike, and we have slowly approached the top rocks of this region of country, which seemed to be, in all cases within sight of the river, the red sandstone No. 14. Just before landing for the night we saw a group of deer, and I started for them, but found them not. Ducks and geese are very abundant and fish I have no doubt will soon become an old story, having had them for every meal so far. They average about 16 inches in length, are quite slim and have fine scales and large fins. 'Floral sandstone refers to die beds containing fossil plants, Green River Series. JOURNAL OF JOHN F. STEWARD 183 May 25. We started early this morning and have run about 16 miles. The scenes have not been as fine as usual, but in most respects very fine nevertheless. We are nearing the Uinta Mountains and are probably between 15 and 20 miles away. We have passed one, butte that we have called "Hermit Butte" (a name suggested by me because of its standing alone in the mountains). At noon we camped near a high butte composed of strata later than any we have had so far. I took a section and collected some fine melanias and unios from a bed at the top of the butte. The red sandstone has been dipping, and at noon it disappeared below the river. From this point it seems to ascend, and near our present camp is about 200 feet above the water level. The undulations of the strata have been very perceptible. This afternoon about 5 o'clock the Major discovered a deer on an island, and shot at it, but missed. We then landed and found several of them. I heard one jump into the river on the other side of the island from me, and Professor and I started for it. The Professor shot first but missed; I then fired and killed it, as we supposed, and the Professor went for a boat to get it. It floated down stream for about 10 rods and recovered suffi­ciently to swim to the other shore. Another came bounding out of the willows and fell under my aim. Professor Thompson then shot another swimming the river. Hattan saw another swimming the other branch of the river and shot it, so that we now have 3 deer and can abandon fish for a while and try venison. The weather has been warm all day, but this evening is quite cool. It seems to be a characteristic of this country to be very cold during the nights and warm by day. May 26. We left camp early and ran down to our present camp, No. 6, reaching at 10 o'clock the foot of a ridge of tilted strata lying at a great angle, dipping to the northwest. The strata having changed so much that I failed to identify it at this point, the Major wished me to return until I could find the floral sandstone and follow it down if possible. I walked up the river 4 miles, to our morning camp, and found the bituminous shales; also red or floral sandstone, and traced them down. I found that the shales gradually became sandstone and the sandstone con­glomerates. I made my estimates and concluded that we should find the shell bed that we discovered at our first camp where we are now. I had no sooner returned than the boys told me they had discovered a seam of coal with fossil fresh water shells overlying it. Upon examination I found that my surmises were correct. The walk up the river so fatigued me that I made a raft of some flood wood and came to camp very quickly, but not in the most presentable style, for in order to avoid getting my clothing wet, in making and launching my raft, I had taken all off. The 184 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY boys declared that they took me for an Indian when sighted in the distance. I saw 3 deer when walking up the river, and could easily have shot one of them with my revolver had I felt so inclined; it watched me until I approached to within about a rod and then took fright. We now have so much venison on hand that we shall not need more for a long time. At our camp the strata is very much tilted (at an angle of about 38 degrees), exposing thousands of feet of strata. These series of strata extend parallel with each other as far as the eye can reach. May 27. The Major directed this morning that we come down as far as Flaming Gorge and go into camp for a day or two to enable Professor Thompson to take time. The "Nellie Powell" came at 8 o'clock with all her crew but me-Beaman delayed in order to take some views, and the Major and I to geologize. I was so lame from my climb and walk of yesterday that I could not do much, so we came early to camp. This time we are in a little cottonwood grove just within Flaming Gorge, which has only enough soil for a foothold for a few trees. The gorge is so called because of the bright red colors of the rocks through which the river passes. The cliffs on the other side are very abrupt and about 800 feet high. The strata are so tilted that they form great ridges where the softer beds have been eroded away, and the river seems to turn back and forth with just room enough to pass between. At this point the river runs into the Jurassic strata which dips to the north at 78 degrees, the river having cut its way through shaly beds and left the harder rocks stand­ing upon their edges. May 28. This morning I started out and went south through the red sandstones, possibly triassic, and finally down into the carboniferous deposits. Found fossils very rare, but obtained some specimens of belerophon and a few fragments are bivalves that I cannot identify. This afternoon the Major and I went back through the upper Jurassic beds into the fresh water tertiary and collected some fine rychonellas and belemnites and a unio.* (Note 1900. This species later having been found to be new, one of the earliest of that genus, it was named for me-Unio Stewardi) .* The rychonella seem to be out of place in what appears 'These are genera of fossil mollusks. The correct spelling is rhynconella. The Major's journal entry reads: "Steward looks for fossils among die carboniferous rocks until noon. He and I trace strata and collect fossils from camp in Flaming Gorge to Henrys Fork near old cabin and return at night. Find Jurassic fossils." The mention of a cabin is interesting because some sheds (the proto-Fort Bridger) in 1841 were built on the Green River-as Jim Bridger told Lieutenant Gunnison in 1850-between the mouths of Blacks Fork and Henrys Fork. This cabin, however, may have been a later structure. 4Unio Stewardi I. C. White 1876. The reader should remember tiiat Steward's diary has been corrected and added to through the years by Steward himself. JOURNAL OF JOHN F. STEWARD 185 to be a fresh water deposit, and the unio equally out of place in Jurassic strata. If these specimens are not actually rychonellas, they are certainly not far removed from that genus. I also found the remains of a huge monster; the femur was oval in section, its greatest diameter being about 10 inches. The ribs were 2 inches thick and 6 inches wide. Had we transportation facilities we could easily care for it, as the strata, here being vertical, has weathered away leaving the bones largely exposed.6 May 29. Left camp about 8 o'clock this morning amid tre­mendous winds. The waves ran high, often leaping into the boats, but doing us no harm. We passed through Flaming Gorge into Horseshoe Canyon, and camped at its end to avoid the rain that set in just after leaving camp. The river has cut its channel through carboniferous rocks to the depth of about 2500 feet, leaving perpendicular walls on either side. I went out this after­noon and climbing the walls took a section in what I will call, for the moment, triassic beds, on the west side of the river. I have passed through about 1700 feet. Our camp, near Kingfisher Canyon, is in a field of globular cacti. So abundant are they that a person might collect thousands of them in a half hour. May 30. I left camp early this morning, with Dellenbaugh to assist me, and took a section of the strata running back to the close of my last. We climbed to the summit of a ridge of Juras­sic strata, over a thousand feet high, almost perpendicular. It took us 2 hours to make the ascent, and we then went back over the ridges until we came within calculating distance of the coal seams, and found ourselves about 4 miles from camp, with 8 ridges between, ranging from 50 to 1000 feet high. We chose to return by way of the last camp in order to avoid so much climbing, and started on our return at 3:30 and were until 8:30 in making camp. Our dinner had been nothing but 3 small hard biscuits and a small piece of venison, all that the cook had in the larder. When we returned we were so tired and hungry that we could hardly walk; several times I became exhausted to such an extent that I had to take frequent rest.6 Having had several previous days of hard climbing I was very sore, and the 10 miles' walk during the day (a great many of them set upon end, as it were) made the hardest day's work I have had. May 31. The day has been pleasant and we ran about 2% miles. We stopped at 2 o'clock to allow Beaman to take some views, during which we chased a deer, that got away at last with several balls. We came through Kingfisher Canyon-the scenery is beautiful in the extreme-and stopped this afternoon about 3 o'clock, at the entrance of Red Canyon, and expect to remain until tomorrow night. Went out geologizing this afternoon. 5In all probability part of a dinosaur skeleton. 8Steward was used up-I was not but I was tired.-F.S.D. 186 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY When I had made all of my preparations to go, 3 of the boys jumped into a boat and took me across the river, Andy at the helm. In the stupid way in which he does everything,' he ran us into some overhanging bushes that threw me into the river with much force. Falling on an oarlock, the breath was knocked out of me, but I clung to the boat until I recovered sufficiently to climb in. My breeches, of buckskin, were more dampened than my ardor, however. At the point reached I found carboni­ferous strata; the beds were so tilted as to practically stand upon their edges. I climbed up a little gorge, examining the rocks as I passed, and finally found myself surrounded by beautiful scen­ery. The rocks' were so cragged that they seemed to pierce the horizon. Thursday, June 1, [1871]. Have spent all of the day geologiz­ing, working down 3 of the carboniferous and taking a section of the devonian strata, about 4000 feet in thickness. June 2. We left camp about 8 o'clock this morning, and all went merrily for awhile. Soon we began to hear the roar of distant falling waters and were made aware that we were ap­proaching a rapid. We stopped to prospect and found that the way was clear, so tying everything fast down we went through a very heavy rapid, shipping but little water. We were still sea­worthy, however, and on we went plunging into an eddy at a quick turn of the river; but soon out of that we were under full headway. The Major, being in advance and thinking that he saw some rock ahead, motioned to us to go to the right. Con­tinuing his signals with great vigor, we thought he meant for us to land, and pulled for the shore with all our might.8 Failing to make the little sandy beach, we turned down stream, as a last resort, knowing that if we could once get our boat fairly back into the current we would then be at the mercy of the raging waters alone; but the little "Nell" was too heavily laden to be under perfect control, and before we could get her fairly headed down stream we went into the rocky cliff. In vain we strove to ease the blow with our oars, but the effort was too late. Crashing we went against the rocks that projected out into the stream just where the river made its most sudden bend. The sides of the little9 "Nell" were stove in and the undercurrent turned her keel upward. Here went an oar, there a life preserver, a coat, and all we could do was to strive to save the pieces. Two oars and a coat I saved, threw them on the ledge of rocks, but stuck to the over­turned boat, bound to hold her where she was till she could be rescued. Clinging to her and the rocks Professor Thompson saved his oar and various other things. Bishop grabbed a rope, sprang 'Not fair to Andy.-F.S.D. They did not remember what the Major's signals meant.-FJi.D. ""Little" is here a term of affection; die tiiree boats were identical. JOURNAL OF JOHN F. STEWARD 187 to the rocks and quickly snubbed her to a small tree that was standing there. In the excitement Richardson had escaped notice. When the boat foundered she turned him over into the water. Professor grabbed him and he was saved. Our little boat was loaded to an extent of about 1100 pounds, but still the water-tight compartments prevented her from sinking-she laid there keel up­ward, and I, remaining there, held her from pounding against the rocks, while the remainder of the crew pulled her off and upon the sandy beach where we had endeavored to land. The other boys were more fortunate in that they had gained the middle of the river, and so went through with little difficulty. They knew that we were in trouble, but could not come back to us. We were entering Red Canyon, and the perpendicular walls on either side prevented them from coming to our rescue. After they had made a successful landing, some distance below, the Major, anxious for our safety, climbed the rocks, 1400 feet high, and made his way to a point nearly above us, on the same side of the river. The roaring of the waters deafened our ears to his calls, but he saw that we were all safe and repairing our boat and was satisfied that we would soon be down and with them. We got our little boat upon the shore, bailed her out, examined the hatches, and found our personal effects were all dry and in good order. All being born mechanics, with the tools at command, we went to work, brought her displaced ribs into position, replaced her plank­ing, nailed them as well as we could, stopped the leaks with our calking tools, and were soon ready for the start. We pulled up the river a little distance and then struck out into the current, where we should have gone before, and would have had we understood the signals of the Major, and went down in fine shape. We joined the "Canonita" and "Emma Dean" with a hurrah, at the point where they had landed and waited for us an hour and a half. We made another little run and then stopped for dinner.The rest and dinner refreshed us, and we were as ready and willing to advance as the rest of the party, and were soon off. Another rapid was before us. We stopped and the Major, as usual, went down the bank to explore.10 He soon returned and reported that we might go about % of a mile, if we could cross the river successfully, but that we would have to make a regular portage, a thing that we had not yet done. To make a "portage" means to unload the boats and let them over the falls, or carry them around and then carry their cargoes to them. The "Emma Dean" started first, but her crew finding that they could not make the landing intended, jumped from their boat into the river, waist deep, rope in hand, and reached the shore. The boat was towed ashore safely. We made the next attempt, and the little 10The Major went ahead, along the shore, to plan die next move whenever P curve or formation obscured a full view of the conditions ahead. 188 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY "Nell." this time, not to be outdone, shot across like an arrow. The crew of the "Emma Dean," fearing that we could not land, stood far out in the swiftly running stream ready to catch us, if necessary, but we did not need their assistance. Then came the "Canonita," this time her turn to be in a critical situation. The crew made a poor start, heading a little too much down stream. The current took them at a rapid rate; Beaman, the helmsman, soon got her under control, however, but she was very near the rapid; they pulled steadily and with might, but were constantly nearing the falls. We ventured out into the river as far as pos­sible, just above the beginning of the torrent, and to this point they came. We seized the boat, hauled it ashore, and they, as well as we, felt relieved. We then unloaded our boats, made a portage and went into camp feeling very tired after a day of very hard labor. June 3. Remained in camp all day. June 4. We started all this morning and passed 3 rapids- at 2 of them we had to let the boats down with ropes. Went into camp at noon and have remained, completing the day geolo­gizing. I continued my section 1500 feet. June 5. We ran about 8 miles today and came to Ashley Falls; made a portage, letting down the boats with difficulty, and carrying the rations over the rocks. It was thought possible to make line portage, as we call them, with ease, and we began with the "Canonita," by attaching a line to both bow and stern and guiding by the ropes alone. Although with bow up stream, the pressure was so great that she broke away. By mere luck some of the boys seized the stern rope and made it sufficiently fast to hold her. She pounded against the rocks until I jumped to the boat from the rocks above, and secured the rope to her bow again, but with much difficulty, yet without being thrown out. We then went into camp at the foot of the falls. June 6. Loaded up and ran about 8 miles, and are now in Little Brown's Park,11 very pleasantly encamped beneath a large pine tree. This has been the roughest day's travel of all. We have shipped water in almost all of the rapids, 8 in number. June 7. Spent the day climbing mountains on the right side of the river to a height of 4000 feet. F. M. Bishop, the principal topographer, having left a girl behind him, named it for her, and if it is mapped in, as it undoubtedly will be by his own deft pencil, it will be found as "Mount Lena." We made the ascent in 4 hours, the way being gradual but the climbing difficult because of fallen timber. Taking the wherewithal for lunch with us, we prepared the same at 11 o'clock, on a little mountain stream; then proceeded to the summit and spent a few hours, "See Mr. Kelly's note, p. 269. JOURNAL OF JOHN F. STEWARD 189 returning to the creek to partake of further refreshment; then reached camp in due time. The view of the Uinta Mountains from this summit is beautiful. We could trace Green River from our camping place for probably 50 miles. A splendid view of the Wind River Mountains, as we took the range to be, was had. The elevation above the surrounding country seems to be greater than anything in sight. We could also see the outline of the Canyon of Lodore, about 40 miles away. June 8. We started early this morning and came as far as Brown's Park, running, in the meantime, 5 bad rapids, which were passed without accident. Arriving at Brown's Park, we were surprised to see wagons and some men in camp. They were herding 3200 head of cattle," and kindly offered to take any letters and packages to Green River City, whither they were going the following Sunday. Spent the afternoon geologizing in metamorphic rocks upon the mountains, to the north. June 9. Spent the day geologizing and writing letters to wife and the home paper.13 June 10. Remained in camp this forenoon, not having fully recovered from the excessive fatigue of my yesterday's long walk. This afternoon I have examined some interesting postpliocene rocks that have been deposited in the valley. Richardson is to leave us. I let Bishop have my revolver to trade with Richardson for his flute. I had fired the weapon several times. Bishop took a fancy to practice at a mark, old soldier as he was, and did so; it burst and that broke up the trade, so we shall have no instru­ment except Fred's mouth organ. June 11. Nothing worthy of mention has transpired, except that poor Richardson left this morning; saw him mounted upon a pony bound for Green River City; with tears in his eyes and a "God bless you" he left us. We pulled out and have run 15 miles, and are now camped in a little grove of poplar trees on the south side of the river. The stream is most beautiful here; its current is so quiet that during the greater part of the dis­tance an occasional stroke only was necessary to give steerage. The day being fine, the boats were lashed together, and the Major, in the middle one, read his favorite selections from Scott. June 12. Have been geologizing, and have traveled between 18 and 20 miles, Jones and the Major being of the party. Sunday, June 13. I am writing this in Winnie's Grotto, upon a ledge, sheltered from the sun's hot rays of this summer's day. I am fanned by the breezes that come in puffs down into the crevice from far above, and my brow is cooled by the spray that falls from the crevices on the other side. Rearing above me through the narrow cleft in the rocks, nearly half a mile high, 12See Mr. Kelly's note, p. 270. 13These letters have not yet been located. 190 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY is to be seen a narrow band of blue sky, unstained by an occa­sional fleecy cloud. Sitting in this little amphitheatre, facing the east, the eyes fall upon the cliffs of the other side of the river, which, in their mad yet beautiful grandeur, seem striving to reach the clouds. At the base of the cliff runs the river, dashing over fallen rocks that strive to check its progress. Up the nar­row canyon comes the sound of falling waters reverberating until the dashings and splashings coalesce and produce a continuous murmur. The sun sends but a single beam down through the crevice, thus lighting up this little amphitheatre; the drops that come trickling from the ledges above fall through it and seem like thousands of diamonds. Bishop is with me, and he will map in this little place and give it, at my wish, the name of my little baby daughter. The walls gather in above, forming a little dome, and leave but a narrow crevice for the eye to reach the sky. The walls seem about 2500 feet high. A mountain rill, revived by occasional storms, has cut this narrow chasm. The rainy seasons and the melted winters' snow have done their work; their waters jump from ledge to ledge; then strike this pavement and dash along to the river just in time to mingle with its waters as they leap over the first fall of the Canyon of Lodore. June 14 and 15. Wednesday morning the Major expressed a wish that I go across the valley northwardly till I could find the axis of this great Uinta upheaval, wherever it might be, in order to begin our new section. He also desired to have a sketch made wherever we might find it, crossing the river from north to south so as to begin a new series. Fred Dellenbaugh, the artist, accompanied me. The distance seemed to be 10 miles or more, and hence we provided ourselves with 2 days' rations, 2 canteens of water, our rifles and a pair of blankets. About 8 o'clock we started and, following the river for about 5 miles to the bend where it turns to the west, left it, taking our course due north. Crossing the valley we walked about 3 miles and reached the foot of the mountain bounding the valley that we had crossed. Our journey so far had been pleasant, although the day was beginning to be very warm, the thermometer standing 98 in the shade. We made the ascent of the foot-hills, about 500 feet in elevation, and about a mile further on our way, stopped to rest and take refreshments. We made the discovery that Fred had forgotten his canteen and that the water in my own was nearly gone. It was 11 o'clock and still warming up. That we could not do without water all day was very certain, but our work might not last very long, as we could possibly find the axis within a mile or two. That we could not eat Andy's peculiar biscuit without water was quite certain. We concluded to take but one gun further with us, leave the other and our provisions by the side of a large cedar tree, make the ascent, then hurry in JOURNAL OF JOHN F. STEWARD 191 our return and go to the river. We climbed on for an hour but did not find the object of our search. The fierce heat of the noonday sun and copious perspiration conspired to make our thirst unbearable. It was not necessary for Fred to go any further, as his sketches were only to include the mountain valley- there was no need for both to suffer-he might go to the river as well as not, first making his sketches, however, but I must necessarily continue up the mountain. He left me saying that he would go by the place where we left parts of our outfit and take his rifle and blankets with him, while I would return later and bring my things and spend the night together at the river. I continued climbing up the mountain, at a rate as rapid as my thirst and hunger would admit, reaching the object of my search about 2 miles farther, at 3 o'clock. Taking my notes as rapidly as possible, and making sketches to aid Fred, I hurriedly de­scended, reaching the hill upon which we left part of our loads, in an hour. Not finding them where I supposed they should be, I concluded that I must have passed them. Retracing my steps for a short distance, I came slowly down, looking more care­fully than before, but still without success. I queried if Fred had taken them, but I thought probably not, for he had agreed to leave them for me. In vain I sought. Excessive thirst so be­wildered me that I seemed to have lost all remembrance of any specific clews [sic]. The features that distinguished that par­ticular tree under which we left them seemed to be common to all trees; many of the cedar trees had large stones beneath them, and cacti near by; mountain sheep had left their trails by many. The principal sheep trail that passed near the tree had divided into a number, and the few patches of soil that retained the imprints of our feet, when first passing over the ground, had become so betrodden that our original steps rendered no aid. The excessive exercise and the heat of the day had made my thirst torturesome in the extreme. My mouth was so dry that the little saliva present seemed more like a mouthful of strings than anything to which I can compare it. All this misery, yet there flowed the river, with water enough to supply a hundred cities like New York, plainly in sight, but it was fully 3 miles to the nearest accessible point. We had no more work to do, and if I could find the things and take them to the river I should not have to return. It was then 6 o'clock, and if I should go without food and gun, we would have to return and find them before we could have anything to fill our empty stomachs. It was too late to expect to get to the river much before dark; to go would be to miss supper, breakfast and dinner, perhaps. The only alterna­tive was to abandon the search and return to the river and quench my thirst, notwithstanding the fact that the drink would cost me more than 6 miles of very rough travel. Hastening down the 192 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY foot-hills, I struck out for the river, expecting to meet Fred at the cottonwood tree that we had selected before parting on the mountain. It is needless to say that I made tracks rapidly. It was water, only water! When within 2 miles of the river I happened to turn my head and saw a human being skulking along-an Indian he seemed. I stepped into a gully and watched his movements-he was evidently watching me. He turned out to be Fred, who had found his gun and blankets, after having sought them an hour, and besides had lost his way;14 so, though 2 hours behind him in making the start I was still beating him in the race. The river reached, we threw ourselves upon the low bank. I cannot say that we lowered the river any, but we did satisfy our thirst. A bath revived us, and as we left for the mountain again the sun dropped beneath the hills. We pro­ceeded a mile before full darkness set in and spreading our blankets, dropped asleep. Waking at 9 o'clock we could see the bright fire of the boys' camp upon the knoll we had left in the morning and see them pass before it, though we were 5 miles away. Falling asleep we slept soundly until daylight, half past 3 o'clock. We had been sleeping along some coyotes' holes, and their fresh tracks were numerous. It was just light enough to see the notch in the mountain where the little creek, in its more lively moments, had cut the gully. We reached the foot-hills just as the sun climbed the mountains. It was not necessary, we thought, for both to climb the hills, as we were in a more quiet frame of mine [mind], yet hungry, but not thirsty, and much rested. So leaving Fred, I made the ascent and began the search. An hour passed; the search seemed in vain; should I leave the things and return to camp? I resolved not to give up so easily. Signaling to Fred, he joined in the hunt, and another hour was spent, and at its close we found all-the brilliant reflection of the sunlight upon my gunlock caught my eye and revealed the place. Our provisions had not been harmed, and, taking a hurried bite, we returned to the river, made some coffee, broiled some venison15 and at 11 o'clock, having finished our notes and sketches, started for camp, arriving there at half past 3 in the afternoon. June 16.10 The messenger whose arrival we had been ex­pecting, came from Green River City, 120 miles distant, with the not encouraging information that he had no mail, it having been sent to Salt Lake City to eventually be brought to us from that place. We had been ready to start for several days, and 14I had not lost my way but was trying to find out what had become of Steward in all this time. He was dead sure he could find the things so I thought something must have happened to delay him so long.-F.S.D. "Dellenbaugh says there was no venison, it should be "beef." i«Dellenbaugh says the date should be June 17, and this is evidenced by comparison with the other journals. OS o Q O J 0 h < a X h X O o x E-O Q O Z 5oo I z 0 < o oa Q o 3 0 0 § u to >. X> X a 2 o> S o JOURNAL OF JOHN F. STEWARD 193 after handing him letters that we had written to those at home, we pulled out and entered the gates of Lodore at 3 o'clock. Through these gates there is no return, the only exit being at the other end of the canyon. After 2 hours of cautious running and passing several little rapids, we could hear the roar of one that seemed to be only around a sharp bend. At its head we camped for the night upon a little sandy beach among some scrub box elders. Although but 5 o'clock, the sun to us had set 2 hours before. During the afternoon we spent a little time in Winnie's Grotto, and the topographer took several views thereof. June 18." The first real rapid we found to be a fearful one but we ran it successfully. By careful management we avoided several rocks that beset the channel at the entrance. Passing it successfully we ran on till night, 7 rapids in all, and landed just above Disaster Falls, making a landing with great difficulty. Here the "No Name" of [the] Major's preliminary trip was lost 2 years ago; we found several fragments, although at the time of the disaster not a splinter was recovered. The rapid was % of a mile long and we made a portage that distance, carrying our rations and instruments over trails that seemed to dare us to make any attempt to pass. Leaving Disaster Falls we ran several more rapids and arrived at Triplet Falls, which were a repetition of Disaster Falls. Here we remained a day to let the boys climb out. The walls are 3200 feet high and almost per­pendicular on either side of the river. At the very place where the summit is accessible, is a gully which they had to pass up the whole distance, at an angle of about 40 degrees. These cliffs were named in honor of [William] Dunn, who was killed by the Indians on the Major's first trip. After spending 2 hours at this place, making a portage, we left for the next obstruction that might present itself. This we found to be a series of rapids which continued for a long distance. The channel is filled with massive rocks that have taken a leap of 3000 feet from the summit as if in an attempt to dam the waters that are now seething over them. These troubled waters were considered worthy of an expressive name. "Hell's Half Mile" seemed proper, and the topographers were instructed to so put it down. Passing many bad rapids and much fine scenery we left the canyon, and at 5 o'clock arrived at the mouth of the Yampa River. June 18. Broke camp about 8:30 and immediately ran a bad rapid; passed through smooth waters for about % of a mile, and then struggled through a succession of rapids till noon, when we stopped for dinner on the right bank. Pulled out at 2:15 in the afternoon and ran a number of rapids, some of them quite bad. "There is some confusion of dates here. Steward had evidentiy, from his language, fallen behind with his diary, and in bringing it up to date wrote two versions of die events of June 18. 194 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY At 4 o'clock we landed at the right bank at the same place the party camped 2 years ago, at the head of what was then named "Disaster Falls," so named because of the loss there of one of the boats, the "No Name." Our boat was left behind with the "Canonita," the Major running ahead with the "Emma Dean" to reconnoitre the falls preparatory to passing the same. The bed of the river, at the upper part of the rapid, is evidently very smooth for a little way, as there are no breakers. At the head of the fall the channel narrows very much and at a point a little below the beginning the waters flow from all directions into this narrow gorge, where the water becomes exceedingly troubled. Being deceived by the smoothness of the water above, we did not make the proper haste to land, and, but for the vigorous signaling of the Major, we should not have known of the danger; in fact, we did not appreciate our danger until we had landed just soon enough not to be taken into the rough part of the rapid. This rapid, although deceptive, is no worse than others we have passed, and I may liken it, at this stage of the water, to the rapids below the falls of Niagara.18 June 19. Made a portage around these falls of about a quarter of a mile and let the boats run down by line through a sea of foaming billows. Jones and I stood in them with oars to prevent the frail crafts from being dashed against the rocks. We next loaded and let the boats down a short distance by line; then made a long portage, carrying the cargoes a half mile over a rocky point, and all this with the thermometer at 90 degrees in the shade. Andy, with his cooking utensils, had preceded us, and after this half mile portage we found dinner in readiness, and his warm biscuits tasted good. They were made from a hundred pound sack of flour that he found upon the rocks where it had been left by the Major's prospecting party19 2 years before. We also found an oar upon the rocks and another in the drift­wood at the water's edge. After dinner we set to work again, got the loads over and the "Emma Dean" down to our present camp on a sand beach. I received a bad fall in getting out of the boat. As we ran over a rock she careened, forcing me over the side with my head under water. I quickly recovered control of myself and we went through all right. The "Nellie Powtett" and the "Canonita" were left above the fall for the night, all of us being too fatigued to attempt to bring them through. We had made but about a mile during the day's efforts, and again slept within hearing of rapids-dinner station and night camp both 18They were warned about the approach to Disaster Falls and the danger of the "sag" at the head, but were careless.-F.S.D. 18Prospecting is hardly the correct word; Steward means the prior or pio­neering expedition of 1869. JOURNAL OF JOHN F. STEWARD 195 on the left bank. The river at this point falls about 50 feet in a half mile. June 20. Brought the 2 boats part of the way, and then loaded and let them down by ropes about a quarter of a mile. Stopped for dinner upon the left bank. Started again at 12:30 and ran about a mile and three-quarters, mostly through rapids, and made camp at the right bank at 4:00. The walls are about 2500 feet high and vertical. A slight shower at the dinner camp. June 21. Broke camp about 8 o'clock and let down by line % of a mile, which took all of the morning. Prof. Thompson and 1 ran up a gully at an angle of about 45 degrees, after 11 mountain sheep. They were a rod or two in advance at the start, and though we followed them to the top of the cliff they were nowhere to be seen when we reached the summit. At our dinner camp we found a vise and an axe left by the previous party. Pulled out at 11 o'clock and ran about a quarter of a mile. Fred left his sketch book and Bishop his compass at the head of the first portage, and they had to climb the rocks and make their way as best they could to get them. Ran several rapids and then reached what was called, by the previous party, "Triplet Falls." Made camp on the left bank among some box elders. The cliffs on the other side are about 2000 feet high. From the bank of the river we could see the top of the cliffs, and slightly back those that drop into the river. Others rising behind are about 3000 feet high. Ran about 2% miles of the roughest water we have seen. June 22. This morning the Major, Prof. Thompson and Bishop climbed out to take observations. I was so lame from my fall in the boat yesterday that I was compelled to remain in camp. Slight rain near noon. The mountain party returned about 6 in the evening, having climbed over 3200 feet above the river. The sky became overcast with dark clouds, the thunder rolled among the mountains, and just before supper time, for a few moments, we had the best rain of the season. We have found many pieces of the "No Name'" and things abandoned by the previous party, ever since leaving Disaster Falls; yesterday a number of Putnam's magazine; today a board from the bulkhead of the wrecked boat. June 23. Broke camp at 8 o'clock and in Triplet Falls made 2 portages; then ran about a half mile to the head of the worst yet seen. After passing it the Major asked me if I could suggest a name sufficiently expressive and I replied with the query "Will Hell's Half Mile suit?"20 and he directed the topographer to so put it down. Made 2 portages with the "Emma Dean" and got her and most of her cargo to the foot of the falls. Did not try ^Hell's Half Mile was named on June 23. Compare, however, the entry for June 17 above. 196 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY the other boats. The water boils, roars and foams, and there is not a quiet place in the entire distance. Found night too near and ourselves too tired to do more, and so went into camp at the head of the falls. I might have said that in letting down the "Emma Dean" she capsized and went over the worst place keel up, but received no injury. June 24. Started with the "Nellie Powell" quite early, and worked hard until 1 o'clock in getting her and the "Canonita" to the foot of the fall. The cooking utensils were taken in the "Nellie," and by the time we got the last boat down our dinner was in waiting. This had been the hardest portage of the trip, so far. We had to make a trail and carry everything over ridges, great piles of talus and through deep gullies. The river falls about 50 feet in a half mile. We pulled out again at 2:15 in very bad waters. After running about a mile, in trying to avoid the rocks on the right, the "Dean" came very near striking a huge one on the left. We followed, but struck and hung for a moment on the summit, and then plunged down into the waves nearly out of sight in what might be considered a wrathful sea, but came through all right. We soon came to the head of another fall, and camped at 3:30. Our day's run has been about 1% miles. I omitted to say, in my yesterday's writing,21 that in the forenoon, about 10 o'clock, the camp fire broke out and when we reached the spot from about half a mile away had hard -work to save the supplies. June 25. Remained in camp until afternoon to allow Beaman to take views along a beautiful little brook and up its canyon. "Leaping Brook" it was called, because of its frequent leaps taken from ledge to ledge as if eager to make its descent. We worked up this little canyon, with walls between 300 and 400 feet high, but soon came to a precipice over which the brook leaped, form­ing a beautiful cataract. We passed it and picked our way as best we could up the talus, wherever we could find footing, and reached another entrance into the canyon, 400 feet higher. We wended our way around this beautiful alcove and climbed up and still up from pool to pool, where the waters found rest for a moment, only to take another and still another dash, their echo reverberat­ing, but dying away only to be brought to our ears again by the breezes. We tried for a half hour, and succeeded in getting to another point still higher, into a fine amphitheater; and after resting and refreshing ourselves from the pool, in which the sun has never shone, we thought, to save ourselves a long walk back around the walls, we would slide down upon the sloping places that we could not ascend, which we were sure we could do, and succeeded in the first place, about 200 feet, and also in the next 21He is adding this note on die 25th. JOURNAL OF JOHN F. STEWARD 197 place, about 25 feet; but to our surprise the last slope was nearer vertical than we had thought and so rocky below that, should we attempt it, we would no doubt break our limbs, or at best bruise ourselves. We could not climb back up the slope we had just slidden [sic] down, as there was no footing. Fortunately, Jack had remained down, and calling to him, we received his assistance, without which we would have been in a bad plight indeed. He broke a dead pine sapling from a crevice, and leaned it against the rock on which we were. By this means we were enabled to risk a slide down, but with much danger, because the sapling was small, dead and weak. We left our names22 in this almost inaccessible place and returned to the boats where we did a good dinner of boiled beans full justice. Broke camp after dinner and let down by line about a quarter of a mile, and then struck out through small rapids and soon reached Alcove Brook, a mill stream that enters from the left through a narrow canyon. We followed it to its head, and found it to be only from the springs up in the cliffs, which are from 500 to 1000 feet high, leaping and dripping down; thus uniting they form a respectable little brook. Beaman obtained some fine views. Pulled out again and ran through comparatively smooth water for 3 miles to the mouth of the Yampa River, and camped just at the junction of the two streams. The red sandstone that has formed the walls of the Red Canyon and the Canyon of Lodore has dropped gradually, and from the mouth of Alcove Brook the limestone of the carbon­iferous age has been seen approaching the river and, at our camp, it drops beneath the surface of the water. Its beautiful colors imitate those of the rainbow. The strata here dip to the south, and as we approached a short bend in the river, to the west, we find that the river has cut its channel parallel with the strike. The channel now occupies the space between almost vertical beds. Then turning suddenly, after a few miles, it runs directly south, leaving the Yampa River about midway; then turning abruptly to the right it doubles upon itself, passing the same fold, through the ribbon cliffs and back into the red sandstone. At the mouth of the Yampa or Bear River we remained until the morning of July 3rd, climbing out in various directions, taking observations of latitude and longitude, etc. In the mean­time the Major and [several] of the party lightened the "Dean" and spent 4 days up the Bear River, and that on 3 days' rations.23 They had a hard pull up stream and a hard time making up stream portages. In the 3 [4] days that they were going [gone] they accomplished about 12 miles. Aside from the views they 22I, Steward, Dellenbaugh and Clem Powell [note by Steward]. 23The Major made a side trip up the Yampa, taking with him Hillers, Jones, Hattan, and Beaman, first leaving behind most of die "Dean's" cargo. For their experiences see Jones's journal. 198 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY obtained they could have done the rest of the work in a day, had they walked. This I think could have been accomplished with perfect ease judging from the appearance of the valley as I saw it from the tops of the cliff. On Friday, June 30, Professor Thompson, Bishop and I climbed out on the left side of the river, a little beyond Echo Wall, and spent the day among the peaks. For a mile the water is still and we floated down to the bend of the river, secured our boat, followed up a fine little brook to a point where its canyon divides, and then took the right branch and continued to its head. This took us to the foot of the moun­tain which we wished to climb. It is capped by the same strata we passed up through, so far, but owing to lateral pressure dur­ing some late geological change (since the deposit of the eocene tertiary), a fold has been thrown up more than 2000 feet. The strata from the little canyon to the foot of the mountain, are nearly level, dipping gently to the south; but reaching the foot of a ledge the lower strata are vertical; beginning to slope, however, as we ascend, they became nearly horizontal at the summit. The rocks are bent in places in a fine curve. Beginning to dip very gradually, they finally become vertical and complete a quarter circle, with a radius of about 2500 feet. These mountains are cut by gullies, giving their sides cragged fantastic appearances. The different members of the ribbon beds, the parti-colored lime­stone and sandstone, their vertical edges cut into saw teeth lapping upon the mountain, appear in the sunlight like tattered rainbows. Our ascent was attained after much labor and, I may safely add, with great risks. Climbing upon the serrated ridges, we made the last thousand feet over steep ledges, through crevices, with each other's help, the last place being a narrow crack 15 inches wide and about 20 feet high. We pressed our knees against the side, then raised our shoulders and pressed them against the wall, then drew our knees up again, and so, cater­pillar- like, we reached a narrow ledge that put off from the main mountain. Following this for half a mile we were upon the very summit. We could look over Echo Wall, 1000 feet high, that divided the lapping bend of the river, down into the Canyon of Lodore. This was a different point of view and we looked up along erstwhile-dreaded Lodore with feelings of satis­faction in that we had escaped so easily. Its horrors were past. To the south could be seen only a vast plateau which drops off apparently just as its southern outline blends with the haze of this hot summer day. To the east, along the plateau of buff-colored homogeneous sandstone, winding about in its plain surface, the dark tortuous canyon of the Yampa River, and that of the Green, can be seen, and also the axis of the Uinta Mountains. JOURNAL OF JOHN F. STEWARD 199 Sierra Escalanta [sic]24 and the various peaks to which we have given names not yet laid down on the maps, and others were in sight. Looking down the river rapid after rapid met our view, and their roar was constantly in our ears. This ridge, for such we found it to be, is very narrow; at the eastern side the strata dip abruptly. The summit is quite level and the northwest side is abrupt and cut away by a huge gully. It is practically un-climbable. The sloping talus, at the foot, is cut by game trails. Upon the very summit of the ridge we found mountain sheep trails very abundant, and bears were found to have been there. These game tracks prove to us that somewhere there must be an easier approach to the summit than that selected. The rever­berations of a distant gun told us that the "Emma Dean" was returning from the trip up the Yampa. The Major, Jones, Bea­man, Hattan and Hillers were soon measuring their boat-lengths, stroke after stroke, with a regularity that showed practice as oarsmen. They had been absent 4 days, and their return was as that of old friends. We retraced our steps and at dusk were greeted by those who remained in camp. A Day and Night Adventure in the Canyon of Lodore, as Written Home.26 Being desirous of making a careful examination of the strata composing the ribbon cliffs, characteristic of this canyon, I started out at 8 o'clock with Clem Powell to assist me, that being his pleasure and my wish. With 4 of Andy's peculiar biscuits and a handful of sugar to render them palatable, a canteen of water and a gun, the latter being a necessary evil when already en­cumbered, we set out. The route proposed was to ascend the little gully that, starting from the Yampa River near its mouth, climbs the ridge one-half the way in a northwardly direction, then to ascend the ridge and make the measurements in passing down to the river on the other side; then, having finished our work, return by the same route. Reaching the summit of the ridge we found difficulties at­tending its descent. Nowhere for 2 miles along could we find a possible way down; although it increased in height, the wall became less abrupt. This fact led us on further than our day's rations warranted. Reaching the summit of the wall, and what 'The Sierra Escalante was a name applied to the lofty Yampa Plateau, as shown in F. V. Hayden's Atlas of Colorado, 1876. Escalante did not apply die name, but he traveled along its southern base in 1776, in making his way west to the crossing of Green River north of present Jensen. 2BEvidentiy Steward wrote tiiis account of his experience for home con­sumption and tiien copied it into his journal. See Clem Powell's journal for August 21, when Steward read to Clem this version of their experiences. 200 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY in passing down the river we had called "Alcove Creek Canyon," we began the descent by picking our way down a passage that, to all appearances, reached the water's edge. Two o'clock found us 1000 feet below the summit with 1000 feet of perpendicular wall beneath us. Here we each partook of a dry biscuit and felt provoked at ourselves that we had not provided more water, for our canteens were so soon empty. There ran the river only a thousand feet away, but that distance was vertical. We were standing on a shelf that afforded good footing when stepped with care. This shelf, made by the easy erosion of a thin bed of shale above the heavy bedded limestone, was continuous and the stratum gradually dipped in the direction the river ran. We could see that if we were able to follow it we should reach the water, whose refreshing qualities urged us to hasten. The narrow­ing of the shelf offered greater difficulties than were anticipated, and we traveled 2 miles and until 4 o'clock before the stratum that afforded us footing dipped beneath the water. Arriving there we refreshed ourselves with both outward and inward applica­tions. Four-fifths of the day had been spent in getting to our work. We were now but about a mile from camp, but it was on the other side of a mountain ridge. There stood the cliffs, the strata of which had not yet been measured, as a single stratum had supplied us a way, and the sun dipping behind the opposite wall left them in the shade. At one point the summit of the wall seemed accessible. There we thought we found a place where we could climb to the summit and, in going, make our measure­ments. Pleased with the thought that we should be able to do our work and possibly get into camp, we began the ascent. Slowly we measured our course up the almost vertical walls, at an angle of about 60 degrees, until, having climbed 1800 feet, we found an impassible wall 200 feet high yet above us. Here the sun bade us good-night, and before we had given up all hopes and made up our minds to return to the river it was getting dark. Our situation was critical indeed. Clinging upon small foothills in the walls we surely could not remain all night, and unless we hurried down at a breakneck speed we should be held there until the moon rose, and luna could afford us very litde light, as the wall on which we were clinging would be in the shade until she should pass the meridian. No time was to be lost-to make the river with all possible speed was our first hope. Down we crept, many times risking so much that, had we slipped, we would have been launched down the almost vertical cliffs hundreds of feet. Darkness reached the foot of the walls at the time we did. Our forlorn hope route would have been difficult in day­light. With further possibilities before us we struggled on through sagebrush and wild rose briers that we declared to have been made for our special torment on this particular occasion, JOURNAL OF JOHN F. STEWARD 201 over rocks, through mud waist deep, and through the water, we worked our way. The rising moon, at 10 o'clock, found us hemmed in, the river on the right and the vertical wall on the left approaching at an acute angle, and the latter dipped its foot far beneath the waters. This wall forced a halt. All the way, since reaching the river, we had tried to collect sufficient ma­terial for a raft. A few bits of floodwood we had found, but nothing with which to hold them together. Camp was then about a quarter of a mile around the bend, and the camp fire still burned brightly, no doubt, as was the custom, to guide any who were out. The boys, we felt, were keeping a warm supper for us. The inducements held out by need of rest from excessive fatigue and empty stomachs were so great that a proposition to swim was made, but Clem being a poor swimmer, he protested. Another alternative presented itself. The dead stub of a cedar tree stood clinging in the scanty soil in a cleft. This, although small, we thought would be sufficiently buoyant to keep our heads above water. We pulled it from the rock, tied our shoes to it, tied our watches in our handkerchiefs around our necks and, launching our craft, floated out finely. We had not gone very far, however, when we heard the noise of what seemed to be a rapid. The moon afforded so little light that we could not foretell anything regarding what was in store. It too soon became painfully evident that the noise was caused by an angular cliff that jutted sharply into the rapid stream. To avoid this, if possible, we vigorously attempted to pull away, but were quickly drawn into the maelstrom. Little though it was, its effects were soon sufficiently felt. The effect was to drag us down, how far below the surface of the water we could not tell. The first thought that entered my mind was: "Is it possible that we have once passed through the terrible Canyon of Lodore, yet to be drowned between its walls?" That the little dead tree was not sufficiently buoyant to hold both our heads above the water had become evident. I remembered that Clem was a poor swimmer. The little stub might take him through safely, and as for me, I preferred to risk my safety to my muscle. I released my hold, knowing pretty well my capacity as a swimmer, my father's mill pond having been an early and long school in the art. I retained my presence of mind perfectly, and I knew what I must do. Steadily and strongly I struck for the surface, several times coming so near that I could distinguish the faint light of the moon above, but it quickly became dark and I knew that I had been drawn further beneath. Two or 3 times was this near approach to the surface repeated. I had abstained from breathing so long that it was torturesome in the extreme to even attempt to restrain; further resistance seemed impossible. In my agony my thoughts turned to the two at home-should they be left? Should the hus- 202 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY band and father have a nameless grave? Not from any lack in my efforts I thought. All this passed as a lightning flash. The time that I was beneath and in such agony seemed long, but just the instant that I felt I must give up, the light of the moon became visible and I knew that I was again approaching the surface. The undercurrent was still strong, but I had gained on it and at last was refreshed with one good long breath. Still in the grasp of the undercurrent produced by the whirlpool, I was again drawn down, this time for not so long a period, and by continued efforts I regained the surface, there remaining suf­ficiently long to draw 2 or 3 good breaths. Once more drawn beneath, I regained the surface with less difficulty, and this time the grasp upon me was relaxed. During neither of my brief stays above water had I caught a sight of Clem. The fear that he was lost but added to the horror I had felt. Imagine my joy when a hundred yards below me I saw him emerging from the shadow of the cliff. Shouting, I requested him to retard the raft all he could, and I struck out for it. I never swam with greater ease. Soon overtaking him I laid my hand on the improvised raft and we were soon in camp. Telling the boys only the pleas-anter part of the story, we donned dry clothing and partook of their hospitable midnight supper. Next morning [July 1?] with the Major, I climbed the cliff, up its sloping side, to a point above the whirlpool and, dropping fragments of the dead trees, watched their passage around the jutting wall. The water, smooth at times, some floated on un­troubled. Soon, however, an eddy would form and the whirling waters create a funnel that took all that came near, only releasing the grasp 20 rods down the stream. July 3, [1871]. We pulled out into the somewhat enlarged river, wound around Echo Walls, doubled back for a mile and en­tered Whirlpool Canyon. We ran until 10 o'clock passing several rapids, none bad except the last, which we could not run. We let the boats down, one at a time, for half a mile, and stopped for dinner upon the right bank. We waited for the "Canonita," which had remained behind for views. Pulled out at 2 o'clock and ran 3 rapids; then camped for the night on the right bank at the mouth of Brush [Bishop] Creek. The stream is a beautiful bubbling brook, cold and clear, that makes a rapid descent down its narrow canyon, the walls of which are not far from 1500 feet high. We spent a half hour chasing a flock of mountain sheep, but succeeded only in scaring them. July 4. This national anniversary has been spent in camp very pleasantly. At dawn a salute was fired and all felt that JOURNAL OF JOHN F. STEWARD 203 although we were away from civilization, the American eagle flapped her wings above, and that we should render honors in a suitable manner. Andy, the cook, having accompanied Profes­sor Thompson and Jones on a climb out, Fred prepared a fine dinner. We had, in addition to our usual fare, some coffee-cake, dried apple pie, sugar syrup and a dessert of Gunther's candies that Fred had brought from Chicago.28 July 5. Pulled out at 7:45, made 2 line portages and ran 3 bad rapids.27 We then passed from Whirlpool Canyon at 9 o'clock. The last canyon is several miles long, has 6 bad rapids and several small ones. Let down by line 3 times. Spent the rest of the afternoon passing through Island Park. This is a fine valley about 10 miles across. The river is very wide and beset with many islands, among which the waters wind very leisurely, much in contrast with the whirlpools and rapids we have passed. We have camped among some cottonwood trees at the entrance of Craggy or Split Mountain Canyon. July 6. Remained at the head of Craggy Canyon in camp, but spent the day in the cretaceous strata, obtaining some fine specimens and taking a good section. In the evening the Major cheered us with the information that his intention was to start for Uinta early in the morning, but in which direction he had not determined. This will give us an opportunity to send mail and there will be time to send a runner to Salt Lake for the mail we missed and get to the river at the mouth of the Uinta. He says he will either take a boat and make a hurried run to the point where the trail crosses, near the mouth of the Uinta River, and go up the latter stream to the Agency, about 40 miles, on foot, or take the trail that we found passing near camp and thus travel 80 miles. As the latter is uncertain, he thinks it better to take the "Dean" and its crew, with the exception of Fred. In the latter's place he will take Bishop, and Fred will stay with the "Nellie Powell." July 7. Spent the day upon the left wall of the entrance of Craggy Canyon, or rather upon the mountain that the river has split from end to end. The summit is but a plateau, capped by the upper members of the carboniferous formation. They drop off abruptly to the north, commencing with a gentle roll, but soon become very abrupt and finally vertical at the base of the moun­tain, 3200 feet below. The view from the summit is beautiful and grand. To the west stretches the long narrow mountain, which seems no more than half a mile wide, and in shape appear­ing like a half [of] a huge cylinder, with one end abutting against 26The candies, radier, had been given to Dellenbaugh at Green River Station. 27Beaman comments, "Not having [had] at hand die usual means of cele­bration, we awoke next morning in good working condition." 204 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY die plateau. Either side is rounded off abruptly and the western end the same. This half cylinder is split its entire length by the canyon, the river having cut into the strata more than 3200 feet. To the north of us can be seen Sierra Escalanta, the cliffs of Whirlpool Canyon, Lodore and the Uinta Mountains, which stretch way off into the haze of the setting sun. The grandeur of the scene was less appreciated because of a shower of rain, not so heavy, however, but that the cedar trees sheltered us fairly well. The haze interfered with taking views and we left the apparatus for another attempt in the morning. Descending into camp we found that Fred had prepared another coffee-cake, which we pronounced first rate. Looking from the middle of the river toward the gates of the canyon, the rounded walls look like a rainbow, not only in contour but in colors, which are very bright. July 8. Spent the day in taking a section. The amount of abrupt displacement! here I find to be about 6000 feet; the cretaceous rocks in the valley are now horizontal. The lower rocks exposed in the canyon are carboniferous. I might have said in my writing of yesterday, that while we were upon the moun­tain, looking into the canyon, we could see rapid after rapid and watch the boys of the "Dean" making laborious portages-they lifted their boat out upon the rocks and snaked it by the falls. We could hear the Major's voice, "Now ready, heave ho," with a vigorous accent upon the last syllable, and yet we were more than a half mile above. All that labor we knew to be awaiting us. July 9. Pulled out early and before doing a dozen strokes came in sight of a herd of mountain sheep, which afforded us amusement, to say the least, at target practice, for a short time, but with what result we could not tell. Whether any of the dozen shots fired from the rocking boat had taken effect or not was left for us to guess. The first rapid we ran with safety, but worked hard all day letting down over some ugly ones that followed. Camped upon the right side about a quarter of a mile above a fine little cave having its opening at the water's edge. Within this little nook, cut in the rocks by the incessant beating of the waves, the roars of the cataract that we have just labored through are rendered soft as a distant melody. The opening is approach­able by climbing along a little shelf near the water's edge. The access is not easy. A huge rock, 20 feet high and entirely isolated, stands as sentinel at the mouth, its foot washed by the rapid waters. It remains where it rested after taking a fearful leap from the cragged top of the canyon, standing on end. July 10. Pulled out at 1 o'clock and spent the forenoon taking views and geologizing; worked hard all the afternoon and landed at the head of a very bad rapid, which promises to JOURNAL OF JOHN F. STEWARD 205 give us much trouble. The first rapid after dinner we found to be very dangerous because of sunken rocks, many of which we struck, but without damage aside from causing the boat to spring a few leaks. We entered the rapid with caution and proceeded with equal caution, intending to land below it and at the head of the next, upon the left side. Sunken rocks so beset the low waters along the left shore that we could make no landing. Before becoming aware of the extent of the danger, we found ourselves approaching the counterpart of the rapid we had just passed. Thumping and crashing through it we must go, for we could not reach the other shore. Boldly we struck out, and fortunately made a successful landing in the rapid just at a point where its descent increases. A little less fortunate, we must have been taken where a safe run through would have been doubtful. July 11. By hard work we let down the boats over the rapid next before us, ran a short distance and stopped for dinner upon the right bank, on a sandbar so hot from the nearly vertical sun that Fred, who had not [sic] become destitute of shoes, was not able to step from the boat until he had been supplied with an extra pair Beaman happened to have.28 Pulled out again at 2 o'clock and ran a couple of miles due west, then turned sud­denly to the south and ran 2 miles over some slight rapids. This run took us abruptly out of Craggy Canyon20 into the valley of the Uinta, just in time to see the setting sun drop beneath the horizon, now only a little elevated. Upon some time-worn walls, upon the right side, just by our camp, we find carved a number of figures, probably intended as a record of some event. The carving is rather skillful considering the rude stone implements that must have been used. July 12. Pulled out at 8 o'clock, ran about 9 miles, and stopped for dinner beneath some large cottonwood trees. Spent the forenoon taking a section of the strata through which we passed during the day. Returning to camp at dusk we found some goose soup waiting for us. Cannot say that we liked it very much. During the afternoon some of the men thought they heard a gun-shot, but not being certain they took no further notice of it. Fred, sitting upon his blanket taking his good-night smoke, after we had retired, thought he saw a light in the west and awoke all. He was to share my blanket, and being so near awoke me first just in time to see the light die down. The others, 28The shoes I was supplied with were well made and cosdy but were not adapted to this work. We had to wear shoes in wading, etc. They had been made on die Major's advice! Beaman had an extra pair of army brogans costing about one-seventh of what mine had, and he very kindly gave them to me. They stood the wear well but we all ran out of shoes finally in spite of much patch-up and we took to moccasins on land.-F.S.D.^ ""Renamed during the expedition "Split Mountain Canyon," which name has been since established. 206 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY being slow to respond, felt convinced that imagination had helped his eyes. They ridiculed us and a discussion followed, more en­tertaining than sensible. They insisted that it must have been Venus, the evening star, that they had noticed just before they went to bed. Some thought it might have been a jack-o'-lantern, although we were in a dry, hot desert. About the time all had become still again and Morpheus had conquered, a snap of the limbs of one of the trees near which we were camped was heard. It disturbed no one with its noise, however, but me, as I lay awake. About the middle of the night the snapping became more frequent, which led me to watch the tree, thinking the weight of some wild animal was overtaxing it and that it was giving way in consequence. By the starlight I could see it begin­ning to droop, and before I could notify the boys the monstrous limb fell with a crash directly toward us. Being forewarned, in the scene that ensued, I did not take a hand, but the boys jumped out of their blankets in a lively manner. Blue streaks radiated from the scene of action and the flaps of the nether garments were horizontal. The scene was indeed ludicrous to me, silent looker on as I was. Fred, with courage warranted by a more dangerous situation, suddenly grabbed his rifle and awaited fur­ther demonstrations. The effect of cacti upon the bare feet of the fleeing ones brought them to a sudden consciousness of the state of affairs, and they soon learned what the cause of their fright was; recognized by them they joined me in laughter. July 13. Just before finishing our breakfast we heard a shout, and looking up saw an Indian mounted upon a fine dark bay horse riding toward us, saying, "How, how." We all shook hands with him, gave him some breakfast, after which he told us by signs that his squaw was down the river a litde way and that he would go and get her to let her see our "water ponies." He soon returned with her on the horse behind him, and they were much pleased to see us pull out into the stream. After passing around a long bend in the river, we met them again at their camp, and now the mystery of the light we had seen the night before was sufficiently explained. He gave us to understand that he was on his way to the Uinta Agency and wanted us to take him across the river, which we did. The motion of the boat frightened the squaw almost out of her wits. Their horses, of which they had 2, they drove into the river and with the per­suasion of stones forced them to swim across. They seemed to have no idea of courtesy and left us without thanks. Ran on and landed 21 miles from our morning's camp. Passed several squaws and children upon the right bank, just before stopping; the boys gave them some "bac" (tobacco), which pleased them much. I cannot say that the Ute women are beautiful. JOURNAL OF JOHN F. STEWARD 207 July 14. Broke camp early and pulled hard all day. Letters being in waiting for us, we thought to make the mouth of the Uinta River, if possible. Stopped for dinner in a little gully on the right bank, where there was not a breath of air stirring and the thermometer 100 degrees in the shade, we suffered much. Just at sunset we passed what we thought might be the mouth of a stream. We stopped, but found no current whatever, and seeing no boats we thought it must be the outlet of a little lake that we understood to be somewhere near. After firing signals, and getting no response, we floated on until dusk and stopped on the left bank for the night. The country for the last 2 days has been comparatively low, the formations being mostly disinte­grated tertiary strata, all desolate in the extreme, except occa­sional places along the river where there are bunches of cotton­wood trees. Back from the river, various distances, the bluffs rise from 300 to 500 feet, the higher portions, being level upon their summits, forming extended mesas, usually capped with some hard stratum. The strata beneath are only the sandy sedi­ment so common in the lower deposits; wherever uncapped by protecting rocks they are merely knolls. I have been sick for the last 2 days, but nevertheless have pulled a steady oar, being so anxious to get news from the loved ones. Having now gone farther than we expected and found neither the crossing nor the boys who came ahead, I feel somewhat discouraged. July 15. This morning we found ourselves but a few rods above the mouth of White River, which convinced us that we had passed the Uinta. In consequence of this Professor Thompson went on a trip of discovery, and returned in an hour to say that he had found the crossing just above what we had supposed was the outlet of a lake, and that we should have to pull back again and see if we could learn anything in regard to the boys and their boats. We pulled hard against the current and wind for a mile and a half and, landing, found tracks in the sand and the cinders of a camp-fire, but nothing that told us more, except that, written in the sand, evidently with the finger, were these words, "vide arbore." In vain we searched the tree over. Here had been their camp-fire; scattered about were pieces of sacks and bits of paper. We could only content ourselves with awaiting results. Soon after, in the willows near by, I discovered an empty fruit can they had left. Wishing to save it as a cup for general use, I laid it in the fire to melt the top off, but noticed a paper within just in time to rescue and examine it. On it were these words, "Gone to Uinta; wait until we return." This was short but significant. Just at night a whoop was heard, and over the sand and through the sagebrush came Bishop and Jones on horse­back. The mail was soon distributed and all were made happy by good news from home. 208 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY From this time to August 5th the time was spent mostly in camp upon the left bank of Green River, at the old stage crossing and the site of Old Fort Robadeau.30 Professor Thompson and Beaman went to the Uinta Agency for a few days, the latter to take views and the Professor to see about rations that were to be brought down by Basor, the trader of the post. After their return 3 of us made a trip up White River on foot. Monday, July 24. White River as I saw it: We took 5 days' rations (Bishop, Dellenbaugh and I), blankets and guns and started on foot up White River. Walked all day and accom­plished about 20 miles. Struck the river early and found it quite dirty on account of recent rains. We saw a number of antelope and deer. One fine stag, particularly, with large and beautiful horns, attracted us. We followed an old Indian trail most of the way and left it upon the hill to descend into the valley to make camp beneath a low ledge. July 25. Waded the river and left the trail upon the other side, making our way as best we could over hills and across gullies. The river, since leaving camp, has been bordered by walls, and we sometimes find difficulty in getting to it for water to serve us at dinner. Just at night, from the summit of the hill over which we passed, we saw, but a few miles away, what we recognized from the description, to be Goblin City, our destina­tion; sometimes also called Fossil Canyon because of the number of fossil turtles found in the locality. We passed on and camped by the river, at the mouth of a little canyon, and there spent the night. July 26. Walked up the canyon about 5 miles and climbed out only to determine nothing of any scientific value. Returned to camp, and while Fred was preparing dinner Bishop and I made a raft of some of the many poles cut by the beaver, so abundant along the banks, tied them with straps from our knapsacks and canteens, and reenforced the whole with willow wisps. Pulled out at 10 o'clock and floated until dark, reaching the mouth of the canyon of the river at our first night's camping place. Our run, we think, has been about 18 miles, along which portion of the river it is closely canyoned with walls from 300 to 600 feet high. The river's channel is very crooked and has very many small rapids, all of which we passed safely. With me at the bow, and Bishop at the stern (Fred taking topography in the meantime), with our poles we found the raft perfectly under control. I have been so ill as to hardly be able to stand upon the raft. Have had great difficulty in breathing and am worn out with my old army complaint. S0SpeIled Robidoux. It was only a "proposed" stage crossing on die road from Denver to Salt Lake. The building of the Union Pacific Railroad made it obsolete. See also Mr. Kelly's note, p. 286. JOURNAL OF JOHN F. STEWARD 209 July 27. We started with the sun, ran within about 5 miles of the home camp, when the sun went down, and concluded to go on foot the rest of the way in the morning and at some future time finish the topographical sketches. We reached camp at 8:30 expecting to find that the Major had returned with more mail, but were disappointed. The river valley ran through today had been quite wide with much tillable land on either side. I do not think, however, that it can be planted with success without irriga­tion. To flood it would be difficult, if not impossible, as it is about 8 feet above the river level and the current in the river slow. It could perhaps be dammed far up in the canyon and the water thus made use of. Game is very abundant; mountain sheep plentiful in the canyon, and deer and antelope in the valley are without number. Beavers, geese and ducks are plentiful. We saw many bear tracks, and at one point we were so close upon bruin that the rain, just ceased, had not pitted his tracks. Saturday, August 5, [1871]. After a 3 weeks' stay at the mouth of the Uinta River we weighed anchor, with 60 days' rations and full crew except the Major (he having gone with Hamblin, who has charge of a mule train which will deliver our rations along the river at different points). He hopes to find a way into the canyon at the mouth of the Dirty Devil [Fremont] River, Ham­blin having failed in his attempt to find it. We expect to meet the Major a little below the mouth of Little White [Price] River, in about 30 days. If he fails to arrive we shall not see him until we reach the Dirty Devil. Have run about 25 miles of fine river, all but the first 5 miles walled occasionally on either side by parti­colored tertiary rocks varying between 100 and 150 feet high. Saw some deer this afternoon, but after hunting them on an island for half an hour and getting 4 or 5 shots at them on the run and in the distance, we concluded that we had enough jerked venison yet on hand, another instance of sour grapes. We watched the animals run over the hills at a speed greater than their safety demanded. We met the Indian who has followed us for the last 3 weeks and traded some sugar for a piece of his fresh venison. Our appetites were now sharper than when we permitted the deer to escape, earlier in the day. We left him and his squaw eating the "sug." This is the Indian we met when we first entered the valley of the Uinta River. He cannot talk English very well, but we could understand this much, aside from what the Major and Professor Thompson learned at the Uinta Agency. He is the son of the chief of the White River Utes, upon White River, and his squaw, I judge is the daughter of some Indian of wealth, a chief, perhaps, judging from the richness of her dress. She was promised to another, but eloped with this, her preferred lover. They are now roving about from place to place to avoid lover number one, who is in search of them. They 210 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY left White River Agency and went up to Uinta, where they remained until their pursuer came, and then slipped away to avoid him. They came down to the mouth of the Uinta River where we were camped and remained as long as they dared, and then put off again down the Green River. Today we met them for the last time, I hope. His costume was complete for that of an Indian, although neither rich nor gaudy-leggings full length of the limbs made from red blankets, with a fin about 5 inches wide on the outside of each leg; moccasins without ornament and as high as his ankles, barely reaching the bottom of his leggings. His only under-garment was a "hickory" shirt that had not seen soap and water for many days. His hair was braided into 2 long queues with bits of red cloth tied about the ends and left hanging down a few inches. A profusion of paint completed his wardrobe. Her toilet was simple, but rich, for that of one of her race. Stockings I could not see that she wore, for if so they were covered up by her moccasins, which ran nearly to her knees and were tied with a garter of buckskin; her feet seemed well shaped and her ankles graceful. They certainly matched many of those thought by us to belong to her pale-faced superiors. Her dress was made of heavy cloth cut after a pattern difficult to describe; it was richly ornamented with beads of various colors. Her waist, not below the standard of nature in thickness, was encircled by a belt about 4 inches in width made of some kind of thick leather, probably of elkskin, and bordered upon each edge with a row of brass bangles about as large as a two cent or nickel piece, with 2 brass buckles and fringes of strips of buckskin finely cut. In making her toilet she had evidendy used a large quantity of vermilion. It was put on in a manner satis­factory to herself and her brave, no doubt. It is almost needless to say that her complexion was dark and her eyes black. We have camped upon an island of quite large dimensions, beneath some cottonwood trees. Around us are numerous clusters of trees felled by the beavers, which are so numerous that the splash of their plunges into the water is continually in our ears. After landing Bishop spent a half hour shooting at them, but although he killed several he failed to secure any. We have imperceptibly left the valley of the Uinta and White River; the walls are becoming gradually higher until the river can be said to be within a canyon having cliffs about 400 feet high. Our dinner camp was upon the right bank at the foot of a cliff, which we ascended while dinner was being prepared. The surrounding country is very desolate. Upon the summit of the highest point near by we found two Indian graves, evidently of great age. Originally stone mounds of some little height, a foot or more, but now sunken nearly to the level of the soil, marked them. The stones are laid no doubt to protect the dead JOURNAL OF JOHN F. STEWARD 211 from molestation by wild beasts. Coyotes we often heard, but what they get to eat is a mystery. Lizards seem to be very numer­ous, but what all live on God only knows. If He does not provide for them they must find nutrition in the rocks and atmosphere, it would seem. But to return to the graves. In the construction of the mounds they seem to have selected stones, mostly rounded ones and not those from the ledges near by. This desolate place may have been selected because of its elevation; there are cer­tainly no other inducements. August 6. It being the day of rest, and not being in any particular hurry, we have remained in camp. The night was quite cold, the thermometer standing at about 40 degrees. It has been low for the last week. We were awakened several times by the splashing of beavers, which was kept up during the entire night. In daytime they are always quiet. It seems natural to be within canyon walls again. Professor Thompson, Bishop, Jones and I climbed out this afternoon to the summit of the canyon walls to take a view of the country; and such a view, desolate in every direction and not a sign of vegetation to be seen any­where. While so surrounded this thought occurred to me-if no more beautiful prospect was in sight when Satan took Jesus to the top of the mountain and showed Him the kingdom of the earth and promised Him all if He would fall down and worship him, the temptation must not have been very great and the self denial in return very little indeed. Sunday has been well observed in the matter of quietness at least. Fred has been isolated, having pitched his tent away from us; in consequence there have been no discussions. I should have said in my yesterday's notes, in connection with the graves, that they may be those of the Moquis tribes which evi­dently inhabited this section of the country at some time and were driven out many years ago. Their ruins are everywhere to be found where the country is rendered inhabitable by garden spots along the river. Their houses were built of stone, which is something unusual with Indian tribes. Several of their mills for grinding corn were found by the boys on their way to Uinta; their inscriptions were on the cliffs in many places. We found a fine group of them upon the lower sandstone cliffs at the mouth of Craggy Canyon. It is possible, however, they were all made by Indians belonging to some other tribe. The Moquis are far superior to the Utes, who call them "wisemen" when speaking of them. The Utes claim that their forefathers conquered and drove them away. August 7. Rested very poorly on account of having been kept awake by the splashing of beavers. We left camp at 7:15, ran 17 miles and stopped for dinner upon the right bank beneath a 200 foot cliff. Professor Thompson, Bishop and I climbed out on 212 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY a high butte 1050 feet above the river. Upon it is a little mound left there by the Major's party of 2 years ago. I found a portion of the bed quite fossiliferous, abounding in fragments of ferns. The view from the summit of the butte is extremely desolate. Look­ing to the south we could see several ragged ridges, each being an inclined plateau cut into indescribable forms by the channels of the creeks, the surface somewhat resembling a specimen of halysites magnified many thousand times. Each of the tables is capped by a thin stratum of sandstone. Wherever the elements have cut through this stratum they have pushed on and torn out the soft shales beneath and stopped only when reaching some harder bed below. The river has been somewhat closely walled on one side or the other, the higher walls almost always being upon the outside of the bends. The rocks are arenaceous and argillaceous shales, mostly, and cut into fantastic forms upon the sides. Wherever a fragment of harder rock, from above, has lodged on the slopes it has protected the shales beneath, and now we see thousands of little columns studding any gentle slopes of the walls, from bottom to top, varying in size according to that of the capping fragment, and in height from one foot to 30 or 40; ragged bastions standing out, sometimes at regular intervals, and the walls seem like curtains with flute-like vertical folds. The river run over has been smooth and beautiful and is very shallow in places. We have had to shove our boats over sandbars 8 times today; the bars run, nearly always, the whole width of the river. They usually rise very gradually, but their down­stream termination is always abrupt. Many times we dragged our boats upon the level sand, learning nothing of the termination until we found ourselves at once in the deep water, sometimes jeered by the more fortunate members of the party. Some of the boys diverted themselves shooting at the beavers part of the after­noon. They succeeded in killing several but got only one. The body of the beaver seems to be so nearly of the same specific gravity as water that their plunge, when shot, takes them beneath the surface, where they remain. Professor Thompson shot one as it was crawling upon the shore, and so by making a quick landing he gained his game before the plunge to the water, which, though wounded, the animal was making for.31 Three feet in length from tip to tip, the body probably weighs 50 pounds; hind feet webbed and tail flat. Its teeth seem made for business. The habitations of the beavers here are in the banks; a hole enters at about the water line. The homes are usually covered with bunches of willows cut and brought there. As we passed one of their places this morning we could hear them chattering like a group of children. The sounds are as "Steward jumped out into the shallow water at die shore, grasped die beaver around the middle and tiirew it into the bottom of die boat.-FJ5.D. JOURNAL OF JOHN F. STEWARD 213 soft as the voice of a child. Thermometer was 93 in the shade at 2 o'clock. August 8. Arose early and pulled out at 7:45. Ran about 1% miles and stopped to take views and to geologize. Some of the boys tried beaver for breakfast, in the form of steak, and pro­nounced it passable. Some thought it would make good soup, and at noon tried it in that form, but a taste satisfied us that, as soup-timber, a beaver is not a success. I did not try it, but have a hide which I hope to turn to some account. No sooner had we started again than we found ourselves aground, and had a hard pull indeed to get off. Ran about a quarter of a mile and was aground again. Waded and pulled the boat over the bar and ran another mile, and in an attempt to land grounded again. Ran across the channel to an island and stopped for dinner to allow me to study the geological position of the strata. I climbed the cliffs 600 feet high and took a section. Ten feet from the bottom of the cliff I found a little nook, somewhat out of the way, in the friable rock, just large enough for a person to squeeze into. Across the opening was laid a low wall, of little height and 4 feet in length, made of stones about as large as a brick, but varying in length. Who built this we can only guess. The work was skillfully done. It is possibly the work of some of the tribes of the region. The place is accessible only by way of the river and by climbing down an almost impassable gorge. The scenery has been fantastic and beautiful. The walls are cut into various forms. A slight touch of the imagination might liken them to cathedrals, castles, towers and buttressed forts. We ran only about 1% miles this afternoon, and stopped in order to take views. We ran a rapid, the first after leaving the dinner camp, which made today seem like old times to us. The walls are becoming higher and closer, and we think we are in what has been called the "Canyon of Desolation." Our camp is on the left side of the river in a grove of cottonwood trees and ash-leafed maples. Bats are flitting around me. These animals we have not seen before, and why they should have selected this desolate region is a mystery, for insects are few. August 9. We went to sleep last night amid the che-chee-chee of katydids, and I was awakened from my dreams of bats by the booming of the morning gun, as I imagined, at 5 o'clock; and it took me some time to realize that it was not really that sound that had rung in my ears for 3 years, while a soldier, but merely the splash of a single beaver. We feel a marked change in the temperature of the nights since entering the canyon. We slept last night with but 2 blankets over us, having used 4 while in the valley. We have not had so much wind, and when the canyon walls become warm, during the day, the heat retained by them keeps the temperature somewhat high during the night. 214 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY The difference of temperature during the day and night is very much greater than that in the eastern states, averaging, say, about 75 degrees at noon and about half that at midnight. We have remained in camp all day, as the cloudy weather would not permit the photographer to take the views he desired before leaving here. Professor Thompson, Clem and I crossed the river and attempted to climb out. Spent 3 very hard hours in climbing up a little canyon, only to reach a 200 foot wall that stood in our way. We found it impossible to scale it, but were high enough to be reminded of the desolation that abounds. We could see the river doubling itself around the point where we camped. The channel of the stream approached itself, after the bend, within 500 feet. The channels are divided by a wall only 600 feet wide and very thin. The dryness of the scanty soil and of the atmosphere is shown by the fact that the trees that border the river are not found any farther away therefrom than their roots can run to reach the water. Thermometer 78 degrees and barometer 26.4. August 10. We remained in camp during the forenoon to allow Beaman to take views for which he had been waiting. One taken from the summit of the ridge looking down both sides into the river is very fine. Left camp at 12 and ran 1% miles to a beautiful little canyon, where we stopped again for views. Pulled out at 2, after barometrical observations, and have run 10% miles. The river, mostly as still as a mill-pond, is wide and shallow, and we grounded twice and had to wade and pull the boats for some distance. This became monotonous, but we were relieved, for a distance, by a nice little rapid which we ran without first examining. It has been our usual custom to land and study all rapids before attempting to pass them. We have been running with the strike since noon; have found the river now encanyoned for certain, the walls being from 600 to 800 feet high. The walls are much cut up; lateral canyons come in often, from an eighth to a quarter of a mile apart. They receive side gullies, thus leaving the summits a continuation of acute serpentine ridges for some distance from the river. The compact argillaceous and bituminous shales seem to become more friable, which per­mits them to weather more easily. This renders the canyon walls less abrupt-the latter alone sometimes as low as to 45 degrees. The slopes are usually ragged, cut by gullies from 50 to 200 or 300 feet deep; sharp keels run from the summit and dip their feet beneath the river; these ridges are cut into fantastic pinnacles and into rigid masses and are everywhere present. Wherever they appear on these ridges the more friable parts are eroded, leaving mass-capped soft pinnacles in height from a few feet to 30, and usually much less in diameter than the diameter of the summit mass. One mass we noticed, quadrangular in form, about JOURNAL OF JOHN F. STEWARD 215 4 by 4 feet and 15 feet high, rested upon compact argillaceous shale, about 12 inches in diameter and 2 feet high. This neck of shale, protected by the great sandstone mass above, must give way soon; protected though it is by the mass, the mass must soon leap 500 feet into the river before it can find a resting place. A similar feature is often to be seen upon the slopes of talus. In one little canyon, in particular, upon the left side of the river, masses of rock have lodged, and the soft shales below have eroded and left some 20 feet higher than the general slope. The sedi­ments from the eroded cliffs, upon which they rest, have hardened sufficiently to support them. These resemble the stalagmites, in some cases, upon the floors of caves. Upon the right bank of the river, a mile above our camp, is a thin perpendicular wall about 800 feet high, running out far at the top; upon either side is a little canyon; about midway is a seam of incoherent sand­stone which, at one point, has been eroded through, leaving a circular hole 10 feet in diameter. We are in camp upon the left bank of the river amid greasewood. Andy being sick, Bishop and Fred have prepared supper and I have just finished a hearty meal; and what is unusual, it has been a clean and well cooked one. We have run about 17 miles today; thermometer 98. Having encountered sand-bars, we have had an opportunity to study their origin and their various features. They always in­crease in height very gradually, as before stated, rising evenly and regularly until, approaching within a short distance of the surface of the water, they drop off very suddenly at the down­stream termination. The height they reach is regulated in the following manner: The sand being carried up the long slope, the bank is elevated until it comes so near the surface that it renders the channel so shallow as to increase the rapidity of the current; this permits it to rise no further; then the particles of sand are rolled along until they fall over the lower margin of the ridge. Each grain is taken at a point upstream and moved along until it falls into deep water. It is thus that the bars keep moving down-stream. They are usually nearly all the way across the river. August 11. The party remained in camp this morning for views, and Professor, Bishop and I climbed out, taking our course in the most promising direction, up a little lateral canyon, and began the ascent, which was very difficult. The objective point was 1800 feet high, but a mile away we saw another about 400 feet higher. Bishop concluded that he did not care to go any further, and we left him. The dip is between 4 and 5 degrees due north. Looking north toward the Uinta Mountains the synclinal axis is seen. The turtle beds are mostly eroded away. The Little Mountains, as seen from this point, are but gentle upheavals, very regular, their slopes equaling about 5 degrees, 216 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY forming a vast inclined plateau, much cut by the river and lateral canyons, with here and there isolated knobs. As we approached the summit of the mountain range we kept on loosing the upper beds. Upon an examination of the lower members of my last section, the sandstones and shales, I find the reptilian remains to be very abundant, for 600 feet. In some of the beds they are so plentiful as to form seams a few inches thick. Scales and fragmentary bones and teeth are found, but nothing of value as specimens. I find that we have run down 800 feet below the reptilian beds, where my last section terminated; first through green arenaceous shales, then heavily bedded sandstones, vary­ing from compact to friable and soft, divided frequently by thin seams of blue, brownish and buff sandy shales and shaly sand­stones. The lower members of the last section are becoming extensively arenaceous. The canyon walls have become very ragged, sloping usually about 45 degrees for from 1200 to 1400 feet, from % to 1% of a mile apart at their summits. They then jog back, very irregularly, and attain the full height of the plateau, where they are from 3 to 5 miles apart. We ran 3 rapids and found them quite bad on account of the low water and rocky bottom. At the first rapid we all grounded, the "Nellie" only rubbing her keel, however. The "Emma Dean" struck and hung upon a rock for some time, within the rapid, and then swung off safely, but not until the "Canonita" came along and frightened us all, fearing that she would run into the "Dean." She turned, however, in time to clear, but struck a rock and broke one of her ribs and smashed some of her planking. We got her ashore, made some cleats of an old broken oar that we had saved for such emergencies and soon repaired all damages. We pulled hard against the wind and made 5 miles. We have spread our blankets upon the left side of the river among several large cottonwood trees, mostly dead, amidst the roar of a little rapid that promises to give us trouble. It is evidently shallow and rocky. August 12. The wind has rushed in gusts through the canyons, creaking the cottonwood trees and twisting them with force enough, one would think, to tear them from their footing. There has been no cessation since the first of its coming, and it has impeded our progress very much, wherever we have found a slow current. These winds are peculiar to the canyons; they are not constant, but come in gusts; or, as one might say, in successions of whirlwinds. We left camp at 7 o'clock and by dint of hard pulling and lifting got over the rapid that had lulled us to sleep, but to find another and still others in quick succes­sion. We ran 6 miles and 8 rapids and stopped for dinner in a cottonwood grove upon the left bank. All of the rapids in this canyon so far are opposite the entrances of lateral canyons,