Utah Historical Quarterly Volume XVI - XVII

Journal of W. C. Powell, edited by Charles Kelly - 5

396 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY send letter. Have been very busy. Am perfectly willing to stay with the expedition till 21st of April. I will return home then unless paid a definite salary from that time. Have spoken to Prof, about it. My dear brother, if it had not been for thoughts of you and the loved ones at home, would have left the exp. long ago. Prof, and Cousin Nellie are very kind, but I don't think the Maj. has done the right thing by me. Will explain all in my letter. I think that when the year is up I will not be under further obligations to the Maj. The Maj. has always treated me very kindly and I think when you see him he will give you a favor­able account of myself. I am writing this at Kanab; 'tis dark and I must return to camp 6 miles away. Morris, you know not how much I love you and the dear ones at Naperville. I am not happy. God bless you all. Affectionately, Clement. [The third pocket notebook in this series of four is unfortu­nately missing. Every effort has been made to trace it through members of the Powell family, but without success. It may have been lost in the mails between Kanab and Naperville. Fortunate­ly, Clem's life during most of this period can be reconstructed in his own language from the series of letters which, though ap­parently first rewritten by his brother Morris, he contributed to the Chicago Tribune. Although these letters are far from being so satisfactory as the journal in revelation of Clem's inmost feelings and his day-to-day viewpoint on the travails of the expedition, they are not only the most entertaining letters by any of the members of the Powell party, but are also rich in in­formation.] Letters of Walter Clement Powell to the Chicago Tribune I Windsor [Winsor] Castle, Utah Territory.88 On the 16th of February [1872] we broke camp at Kanab Creek, and moved to the Navajo Well.88 This water-station was first known to the whites last summer. The train that met us at "Crossing of the Fathers" passed this way, and some Navajos were seen encamped about. The well is only 8 feet deep by 4 across, fed by a sulphur-spring, but is of value to travelers over the desert. As our animals could not jump in, like the goat in the fable, we watered them from the breadpan. We have all the conveniences, but not the style, of fashionable watering-places. On Feb. 23, our party, numbering 10, started for the "Buck­skin Range" [Kaibab Plateau]. I rode a mule called "Sis," an old campaigner - intelligent, active, sure-footed. Behold us! Man of medium height; thick-set; erect; bronzed; bearded; ferocious mustache; suit of gray; broad-brimmed hat; huge Mexi­can spurs, with tinkling bells attached. In general appearance, a cross between a highwayman and a missionary. Across the saddle a rifle swings; canteen and revolver balance on either side. Car­rying this burden is a mouse-colored mule, with Titanic ears, dark and rolling eye, scorn flashing from nostrils. Although it has a curb bit in its mouth the beast brays like the dismal gasping of a dozen disordered suction pumps in dry weather. A hundred such voices would take the dilapidated linen from the shrubbery of any Jubilee that Gilmore has yet dreamed of. Pack trains present much of the picturesque to our observer. Winding in single file, the divers-colored animals, some mounted, others led, and many heavily laden, follow a leader, whose un­erring judgment must find water at least once a day, and whose observant eye must ever keep the surest trail. Now, the caval­cade is lost to view in a gulch; then, they climb a cliff; again, a halt is ordered for readjustment of packs. Suddenly, a panic sets all in commotion. A vicious mule has bolted, stampeding the herds. Off they scurry, with drivers in angry chase; pots and pans musical, and way-freight promiscuously distributed. At last, an occasional gleam from canteen or rifle, and a cloud of dust, •'Reprinted from the Chicago Tribune, July 11, 1872. T h e diarists do not clearly locate 'Navajo Well," but Clem's letter of May 21 indicates that it was about 22 miles southeast of Kanab. 398 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY are all that mark the progress of the train. Captain Dodds gen­erally takes the advance, as he knows the country well. He was in charge of the Base-Line. While absent, one day, his camp was robbed. A Winchester rifle was most missed; it was one of the load brought down on the river voyage last year. Persevering appropriator subsequently made a descent on Professor Thomp­son's tent, and took some cartridges. We trust the hero of the rifle is happy now. At evening, we camped at a sulphur spring on the plateau, in a grove of cedars. Pushed forward next morning in a blinding snow-storm, to Steward's Ranch [sic]"0 which consists of two de­serted cabins and a corral. In front of the huts, a large spring falls from the cliff over a talus of limestone, 200 feet in height. The stream, pouring over the friable rock, has deposited upon its marg­ins a thick crust of carbonate of lime; these snowy ridges have parted the waters. Soon after our arrival, young Steward [Stewart] drove up a band of horses, returning immediately to Kanab. "Prof." pitched a tent, four of the boys another, and the rest put some boards over the roofless house, and took possession in the name of common humanity. Snow fell steadily, and soon we were snow-bound in a cheerless waste. Showering from above, sifting through the chinks, drifting about our dwelling, the white deluge envelops us, and all heartily wish to be "out of the wilderness." After the storm, found the stock scattered, requir­ing several days to collect again. I obtained some charming snow-scapes. Rounded peaks, heavily wooded, covered with snow, rise above us. Giant pines and cedars hem round the little valley. Straight, symmetrical, these royal trees, clad in ermine and emerald, rise to a height of 200 feet, and often 250 feet. There is pine enough upon the plateau of this region to fence all the country west of the Rockies. Thompson will embody in his report statistics concerning the value and extent of these ever­green forests. It is thought the Southern Pacific Railroad will tap this Territory of its minerals and lumber. Owing to die storm's delays, we were running short of supplies, and a man was dispatched to Kanab for fresh stores. This plateau is channeled by Steward's [Stewart's] and Kanab Canons; the valley we are now in connects the two. Dodds and Jones went in search of some way from the plateau to the Colorado, to continue topo­graphical work. In each monument put up, a tin case is deposited, containing date, and name of builder. Some of us went on a deer hunt; tracks run in all directions, but we had no time to stalk the wary fellows. The mound-builders returned, driven back by the snows, ""Stewart's Ranch was in Stewart or Jump Up Canyon. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLBMENT POWELL 399 which lay 10 feet deep in places, rendering travel dangerous and difficult. On the 3rd of March I started out, with Assistant Jolly Jack,101 to take views. The picture-writing in Moquis Caiion was copied by the pencil sketches. These pictures seem to be heraldic his­tory. For instance, there will be the figure of a Chief, followed by representations of a mountain sheep, tarantula, lightning clouds, serpent- The sacred symbol, and the epic song, Unknown the character, forgot the tongue. A common and curious freak of Nature is to set an immense boulder on a slender stem of shale; a sort of Atlas lifting a globe. It is marvellous how these mushrooms retain their positions. As we journey through the valleys, we find the grass growing green, the nightshade in bloom, willows and cottonwoods budding. In strange contrast, snow-crowned mountains tower above, and lesser peaks are seen, with glittering crests. Climbing up a ridge, we will leave a shower of rain to find snow flying in our faces. We depend frequently on water-pockets to quench thirst. Some are large, holding many thousand gallons; others are wide and shallow, exhaling more vile odors than the City of Cologne. The deeper ones (and the smells) last the year round. Having got the country "packed" up, we returned. Met a party of miners, with picks and shovels, "grub" and rockers. Arrived at Pipe Springs March 11. This is a place of importance. It is 20 miles west of Kanab. The spring gushes from a cliff of red sandstone, and spreads out over a bottom in quite a stream, affording excellent pasturage. The following legend accounts for the name: A company of hunters and trappers, resting here, amused themselves by firing at a mark. Some wild shots being made, one of the men stuck up his pipe near the water, thinking it perfectly safe. The sharp-shooters blazed away, and the pipe was shattered in fragments. Pipe Springs has figured con­spicuously in frontier annals.182 This barren wilderness of rock and sand offered few induce­ments and little protection to the emigrant. Forts, posts, soldiers, and even stage-stations were few and remote. There are now no old settlers, daily papers, Dolly Vardens, or other luxuries. Mormon people, however, are persevering, and Mormon leaders sagacious. Colonies have lodged along all the mountain-streams, and in every green valley; taking root, like the pine and willow, mJack Hillers, here apparently referred to as Clem's assistant, but soon to be chief photographer. ""Pipe Spring is now a national monument, its buildings being largely restored to original condition. See also Dr. Gregory's note, p. 107. 400 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY wherever moisture would nourish and soil support. So fine a pasturage as that of Pipe Springs was speedily used as grazing ground for herds of cattle, sheep, and horses. In 1865 [James M.] Whitmore owned the ranch, living in a stone hut with his son and two hired men. A band of Indians surrounded the premises, drove off the flocks, and killed the white men who rushed out to the rescue. Still later, an Indian surprise was ef­fected, and 600 sheep taken. The savages satisfied themselves with sticking the door full of arrows, and burning the corral. The ranchmen, more prudent than the first owners, did not show themselves, and were saved. The Navajo Indians, living in Arizona, some 200 miles dis­tant, occupied the time, when not fighting other tribes, in raiding over the river to plunder the whites. They forced the cowardly Pah-Utes to lead them where settlers' stock was herding; then, in true Indian style, the Navajos would suddenly emerge from behind some rock or cliff, seize their booty, and be off in a jiffy. The Mormons, getting intelligence from scouts and sentinels, would promptly arm and mount; and an exciting chase for the river began. As the Colorado is only fordable at "Crossing of the Father's" and mouth of Pahria the pursuers and pursued dashed, at utmost speed for one or both of those points. Moving along parallel routes, the sheep-stealers and sheep-owners often arrived at the fords about the same time. The acute savages generally managed to skirmish and cause delays, until the plunder was safe on the farther shore; the warriors then retreated. In this way a few dead Navajos were exchanged for a good many live horses. It is hard enough, and bad enough, to live un­molested on the desert, but, when one is obliged to receive visitors at so much expense, and with so great display, the amusement grows stale. The frontiersmen, undaunted, kept a sharp look-out, learned the trails better, and perfected means of defense. At first alarm, they were at the heels of the Arizona Arabs, better armed, and equal in numbers. The battles then waxed hotter. The "reds" were severely punished; as the phrase goes, "they salted a good many Injins." Finally a fort was built and garrison maintained at the Crossing, and a treaty of peace concluded. Pipe Springs was often the theater of war. President Young and Bishop Windsor [Anson P. Winsor] secured the peace. Under the supervision of the latter, a large stone structure was projected, and is now building, at considerable cost. Windsor Castle, as we call it, is loopholed for musketry, and is used as a ranch, dairy, and fort. It is on the direct trail leading from the Indian country to the settlement, and forms a strategic point the Navajos or Apaches will find difficult to turn. We are encamped in one of the stone houses within the fortification, and enjoy hugely those rarities to the campaigner-fresh milk and good butter. Eleven JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 401 thousand sheep, 500 cattle, and some horses are kept here. We are indebted to the Bishop for many favors; he is a genial host. Resting from our labors, the younger and unmarried members of the party wander pensively about, singing, to slow music, strictly original and soothing strains about Marrying a rich Seiiorita, Living on a ranch in the West, Smoking the light cigarita, Taking our ease, and having the best. During the day, weather is warm. The nights are cold, on account of the nearness of the mountains. To the southwest, Mount Trumbull shows its wooded crest, 30 miles away. The foliage of the pines looks blue in the dis­tance. Back of us the Vermilion Cliffs; southwest, the peaks and ridges of Kaibab glint in the glimmer of sunset. Future plans engage attention. Three trips are proposed-one to the Valley of the Virgin; another to the Dirty Devil; a third to Mount Trumbull. This will keep us busy until July. Stores will then be collected, boats repaired, and the fleet started down Grand Canon. If successful, we shall turn our faces homeward in November next. Will work up the country from Fort Yuma103 to St. George; thence to Salt Lake City, and disband. Captain Bishop's topographical map of the river is com­pleted; it is finely executed, taking time and skill. My smashed camera has been replaced by a new one; the cumbersome "hand organ," exchanged for a lighter and more convenient dark tent. "The best indication we now have as to what Powell's original plans may have been comes from Clem's letter of July 17, 1871, to the Chicago Tribune of undetermined date, as found in the New York Public Library's Dellenbaugh Collection. After running Cataract, Narrow, Monument, and Mound canyons, Qem said, they expected to meet die pack train at die head of the Grand Canyon, thence go to Kanab. Major Powell has 13 horses there tiiat will be used by die party in exploring the country. We expect to go into winter quarters about die 1st of December. Several of us will accompany the Major on a tour dirough Arizona, visiting the ancient cities and other objects of interest that abound in that region of wonders. Most of the work about Grand Canon, which is 300 miles long, will be done during the winter. We shall have to wait for the river to rise in die spring before venturing upon the treacherous tide. About the beginning of die month of May, we shall make die start, and in 8 weeks hope to reach the Virgin River, at the head of navigation on the Colorado; from ttiere down the creek to Fort Yuma, or across country to San Diego, on die Pacific coast, and thence by steamer to San Francisco; return to Salt Lake City, and disband. From Clem's remarks in die present letter, it would appear that these plans had undergone considerable change. They were still further to be amended before Qem left die party. 402 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY My pack horse is called "Chemicals," and is pretty well colored up. We are ready to make hay when the sun shines."* March 21. Left Windsor, in light marching order, for Mount Trumbull. A short way out, we halted to re-cinch "Chem­icals." Our riding animals stampeded in the meantime. All were soon caught but my horse, "Buttons," who ran with speed and bottom, heedless of the gun tied to pommel of saddle. Those who joined me in the chase at first gave it up and went back to the train, which had not stopped. For a day and a half I con­tinued the search for the "Winchester"-a valuable rifle, pres­ented by the Major. Finally succeeded, with help from the ranch. The horses here are half wild, and are ever alert for a stampede. When on the march, they slip and fall, kick and plunge. If, in the course of one day's jolting, pack and passenger are not sea-sick, either is good for an Adantic voyage in winter. I had determined, after resting the fugitive "Buttons," to make a forced ride for Trumbull. Intelligence arriving that our boats on the river were being used and ruined by the miners, I started immediately for the Colorado. In the saddle at daybreak, with assistance to recover the craft. The new settlement at the mouth of the Paria is called Colorado Dell."6 A ferry has been estab­lished; a road thither is being made. The trail leads down a caiion, and up on the other side through a gulch. The Mormons are blasting rock to get a grade passable for wagons. All cached our boats there, and left for Kanab, andthere was not a living soul in sight. Meeting Mr. Hamblin, an old comrade and man of influence, we transferred our mission to him. The placer diggings, on the Colorado, still absorb interest. There is a constant stream of miners to and from Pioche. Those hastening to Grand Canon are hopeful, confident. Those returning are desponding, dis­gusted. Old Californians assert that the mines will pay from $10 to $20 per day. They expected the rich leads of that never-to- be-forgotten year of '49. The excitement broke out so sud­denly, the fever ran so high, that people crowded to the aurifer­ous shore without food, without knowledge of mining, without ""Clem's letters reflect rather less of his personal feelings than do his diaries. Thompson wrote in his own journal on March 20, "Clem talked with me and said he did not care to stay. Told him he had better come on die trip to Trumbull, learn what he could, and then should have a separate outfit, if possible. He acquiesced, but I think reluctandy. Has not helped get ready, but little." ""Fifty men were sent by Brigham Young to assist John D. Lee in making a road to and from die river. They were working on this date (March 21) and probably for some time previous. Since Lee was well established when discovered at the mouth of the Paria by Dellenbaugh in July, he had probably located at what he later called Lonely Dell in die winter or very early spring of 1872. The place very soon became known as Lees Ferry. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 403 proper implements. After prospecting for a time, and getting but a few fine grains of gold, provisions run out, hopes fall, starva­tion stares them in the face. The dismal reports of the luckless ones sometimes cause new-comers to turn back when within 10 miles of the river. Others are determined to see the elephant"'8 for themselves, after so long and fatiguing a journey. Bonna-mont [Bonnemort] and Riley buy up the quicksilver and copper plates of the "busted" companies, and seem to be successful. Driftwood, for camp-fires, is scarce. Caiion walls are 2000 feet high; the talus about 150 feet. The river margin is passable for some distance. The work is hard, turning over boulders, and digging debris. The only way of getting in or out of Marble Canon by land, is via the Kanab Wash, described in my last. It is thought the gold is washed down the Green and Grand, and lodged, with sand and dirt, all along Grand Canon. Others think the shining grains come from the Pahria and Little Colorado Rivers. Last year, an English Company sent an expert to this region. He pronounced the indications of precious metals on the Kaibab Plateau as good as anywhere in Utah. Capital will probably be required to develop the mines. Of course, every prospector remembers the extraordinary luck of new miners, and, like the lottery-ticket holders, hopes to draw a large prize. One young man left home with his earthly all; lost it by the time he got here, and now depends on charity of the miners. The hapless youth has a walk of 200 miles before him, without a dime for food or shelter. Another penniless ad­venturer tied his horse to a sage-bush. The horse and bush are now chasing the antelope over the plain. The owner is working for money to take him home afoot. Frequent fights are indulged in. The miner's camp is a cheerful and elevating place. The Pah-Utes prowl about, begging, doing odd jobs, and selling Indian trinkets. Short in stature, half-starved, scantily-clothed, they present a pitiful, abject appearance. The squaws transport their progeny in Konunkwas-willow baby-baskets, covered with buckskin. When at Kanab we noticed a Ute mother, not more than 3% feet high, carrying a queer little imp, evidendy the youngest of a numerous family. The papoose attracted the attention of the young Mormons who followed in a crowd, crying, "Oh, see that little devil!" The remark was coarse, disrespectful, but wonderfully apt. Pah means elk.1" White children should "The exact origin of tiiis slang phrase has not been determined, but it was popularizd by the forty-niners. To "see die elephant" was to undergo one's full share of hardships; here it also implies seeing a thing through to the end. T n tiie Ute tongue "pah" means water. In die same tongue, according to the vocabularies collected in 1859 by Captain J. H. Simpson, "par-i-ah means "elk," rather dian "elk water." Why this name should have been applied to a river to which elk are not common has not found a plausible answer. 404 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY never address their fathers with such a discourteous term. Most of the tribe are now out on the plateau, gathering yant-a species of the rose. From this product they made a cake, by baking it in the ashes. It is said to taste like roasted chestnuts. March 29. A storm of mingled hail, rain, and snow drives all within the casde walls. I have been writing this letter the while. A crazy shepherd pesters me with questions. He has heard of my acquaintance with drugs, and asks, for the hundredth time, what is good for his sore throat. After making a critical examination with butcher-knife and spoon, a severe process of reasoning has led me to suggest, confidentially, the use of soothing syrup and sage (bush) tea. To beguile the hours, I have lectured to the miners on the Correlation of Forces, the Immortality of the Soul, and the Eternity of Matter. Have also advised them to go West. Practiced with the lasso, which I can now throw with accuracy around stray sheep. Confinement soon proves monotonous, and I wearily wait the return of the train. April 3. Sunday last [March 31], Jones and Fennemore arrived, having ridden 50 miles without water.188 They reported Thompson's party snowed in at the lower end of Mount Trumbull. Feed for horses and wood for fires exhausted. Captain Dodds can find no way for the train to the Colorado. He succeeded in reaching the river on foot. It has stormed steadily. Our com­rades have experienced the discomforts we endured at House Rock Valley. Stores will be immediately taken for their relief. Gold excitement is unabated. Fifty men are here encamped, waiting for the weather to close. A brisk trade is being carried on in butter and beef. The currency used is fair to see-silver dollars, halves, and quarters, five-dollar gold pieces, eagles, and double eagles. An occasional greenback adds variety. A counter­feit $10 note was passed on Mr. Windsor, that gready puzzled the good Bishop. Miners report every trail to the Colorado Canons crowded with men seeking the new Eldorado. The washes leading down, such as Pipe Springs, Kanab, and Grand Wash, are the only practicable routes to the river. All sorts of outfits arrive. Some come in wagons, some on horseback, mule-back, afoot, and one in a donkey-cart. Anything on wheels is utterly useless beyond this point. Many miners are going to "Paria" locally is pronounced "Pah-ree." In Clem's journal entry for July 15, 1872, he corrects the spelling of the river's name, saying it should radier be "Pah Weep." Simpson's vocabulary gives "weeb" as Paiute for oak, and this suggests the possibility that the original name meant something like "oak water." However, William R. Palmer, writing in this Quarterly, 1928, vol. I, p. 21, notes that the Paiutes called die Colorado River by a name somewhat similar to "Pah Weep"-"Pa-ha-weap" interpreted as meaning "water down deep in the earth" or "a long way down to water." "Jones's journal resumes with the entry for March 31, 1872, and from this date may be compared widi Clem's letters. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 405 Arizona and New Mexico. It is said that gold has been found along the Little Colorado. A mule, with saddle and bridle, costs here from $40 to $50. As future letters will chronicle active operations only, it may be well here to give the results of the expedition thus far. Fourteen hundred miles of a tortuous and almost inaccessible river have been mapped by the civil engineers. A continuous sketch of the left wall of the Colorado and Green has been made by Dellenbaugh. His portfolio is also full of miscellaneous drawings. Nearly 1000 stereoscopic108 views have been obtained. Many can never be duplicated; most are pictures of scenery as grand as the Yosemite, as wonderful as the Yel­lowstone, and less known than either. A book will be written explaining the views. An accurate survey will soon be com­pleted of the Valley of the Colorado and tributary streams. The Base-Line, 3 miles from Utah and Arizona boundaries, will form the basis of future section, county, and State surveys. The dif­ference in time between this point and Chicago is 134 [1%?] hours. The minerals of the country traversed have been ex­amined, and specimens obtained. The most important are silver, copper, and coal. Gold is very fine, and placer-diggings have alone been discovered. The report of the Geological Corps will be of great interest. Much new information will be added, and studies in structural geology completed. Fossils of bones, plants, fishes, and corals have been shipped in large quantities. We find evidence of large fresh-water lakes; remains of curious animals; forests turned to stone. Silicified tree-trunks, 80 feet long, and 2 or 3 feet in circumference, are scattered over the desert, drifted over by sand-reminding one of the broken columns of the Nile. The plants of Utah have been gathered and classified. Mrs. Thompson has over 200 varieties. They will appear in late editions of standard works on Botany. Major Powell has given special attention to Indian lore. He has made vocabularies of the Ute tongue, learned their traditions, religious rites, and tribal laws. He speaks the gibberish of the various tribes, and probably is the most thorough student of their jargon of any ""Many distinguished stereoscopic views were taken by Powell's photo­graphers. Mr. Darrah, who edits Steward's journal for diis volume of the Quarterly, advises the Society: The stereoscope as we know it was invented in 1858 or 1859 by Oliver Wendell Holmes, the very same "Autocrat of the Breakfast Table." His versatility is scarcely known to the modern generation. Actually stereoscopes were available in this country in 1851, and die Langenheim Brothers had established a thriving business in stereoscopic views as early as 1854. Other competitors were in business die same year. The cameras used by Beaman, Fennemore, and Hillers in 1871-72 were stereoscopic cameras taking double exposures, simultaneously. Hundreds of the original negatives are still preserved. Stereoscopic cameras were used by the Powell expeditions almost exclusively until 1876, and used intermittendy thereafter for certain purposes. 406 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY white man now living. Specimens of the implements of war and husbandry, products of the industry and skill, of American Indians, from the Mound-Builders and Aztecs to the Utes and Navajos, are being collected in as complete sets as possible; also blankets, and robes of rabbit and wild-cat skins. The ar­rows alone are suggestive of the power and prowess of the warriors who use them. The Pah-Ute bows have sinew backs. The Navajo arrows have iron heads, and are feathered. With one of these arrows they can shoot a man through and through at 50 yards. April 5. We start today for Mount Trumbull. A council of the Indians will be held there, and gifts distributed. Thence we will turn southward, to the Valley of the Virgen."0 Fine views and plenty of adventures are expected. Storms continue. The mountains, peaks and ridges, of Kaibab look drear in the chill and misty air. Who would be an explorer? Clement Powell. II In Camp, Arizona Territory, May 21 [1872]."1 Bidding adieu to the hospitable inmates of Windsor Castle, on the afternoon of April 5, we (i.e., Fennemore, Jones, Adair, and I) started with stores for the beleaguered party at Trum­bull. 118 Had not gone far when the inevitable mishap occurred. One of the horses gave out, and was sent back by a passing train. Camped at Cedar Ridge, 8 miles out. It rained through the night, greatly to our disadvantage. In trying to scale the steep and slippery ridge, next day, the wagon stuck fast. Four men were then obliged to do what four horses could not, viz.: take the load to the top. The slow and toilsome journey was not particularly enlivened by cold winds and blinding snows. Freezing in winter, melting in summer, hard work all the time-such is campaigning "Out West." At frequent intervals, we met miners on their way ""Variant spellings of the name of die Virgin River appear in all die journals. The Spanish form, "Rio Virgen," was used by Fremont in 1844, and often appears later in the corrupted forms, "Virgen River," or "Rio Virgin." Strangely, an affluent of the Virgin, La Verkin Creek, is another Spanish version of the same name, so that today die Anglicized form of the name is ap­plied to the main river, and a Spanish form to a tributary creek. mReprinted from the Chicago Tribune. July 26, 1872. ""See Jones's journal for a more connected account of these adventures, and Dr. Gregory's notes, pp. 126-138, for a fuller annotation of die itinerary. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 407 to the "diggings." I have remarked one ailment common among gold-hunters; it is popularly known as erysipelas. This disease nearly always breaks out on head and face; it is produced by violent contact with knuckles, clubs, and glassware, and is ag­gravated by poor whiskey. The malady seems to be contagious. When one man gets it in a camp, with great alacrity and cheer­fulness he passes it on to his neighbor. A healthy and devoted frontiersman will work off fancy heads with neatness and dis­patch. Phrenological charts of a subject well handled would sell readily as maps of the Sandwich Islands, or other hilly dis­tricts. Women's rights prevail. One company, which passed to­day, consisted of 4 men and a Spanish woman, all afoot. The latter was Generalissimo of the forces, and owned the entire outfit, which consisted of whiskey. Night came darkly down, and the wind blew a piercing gale, when we reached the Sheep- Troughs, 24 miles from the ridge. A small stream, scarce an inch in diameter, comes from the side of a cliff, 200 feet from the ground. The water is conducted by numerous troughs to several large reservoirs, where 1000 or 2000 sheep are watered. Weary, chilled, and hungry, a heated discussion broke out, and symptoms of "Erysipelas" appeared. Hot coffee and warm steaks cooled the dispute. We crept under a huge, solitary rock on the bleak plain, and slept like brothers. Clear and cold the morning dawned as we resumed the march, relieving the tedium of travel with song and jest. Seven miles out we halted at Gould's Ranch, to trade beef for dried peaches and fresh milk. Two miles beyond is Hurricane Hill. The cliff is 1000 feet in height. Down its steep face, the road winds for miles. At its foot, the waters of the Virgen glisten. Just across, the village of Toquerville lies in the lap of the hills. Northward, rise the Pine Valley Mountains, covered with snow; they are from 6000 to 7000 feet above the plain, and 12,000 from the sea-level. The country is broken, bold, and rugged. Chasms, gulches, gullies, and ravines appear in labyrinthine mazes, with ragged cliffs, spired and rounding peaks, between. Our road has been sandy hitherto; now the wagon jolts wearily over lava-rocks. At 4:00 o'clock, reached Berry's Springs. The water is alkaline. The Rio Virgen is 200 yards away. St. George is 15 miles distant. Above the Springs is a stone fort; behind that, a corral, in which stock was driven at night. The place is deserted now, but its story still is told. In the year 1868 [1866], a man named [Joseph] Berry oc­cupied the fort. He started, with his son and daughter-in-law [Robert and Isabella], for Long Valley [from Spanish Fork], not anticipating trouble from any of the Lo family. Arriving at Short Creek, some 20 miles north of Pipe, a band of Pah-Utes surprised and fired upon them. The elder Berry, who was driving. 408 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY fell dead. The woman threw out the load, and young Berry drove furiously away. The Indians, on fleeter ponies, kept heading off the fugitives, until the second driver was slain. The horses gave out from galloping through sage and sand; but the heroic woman tried to unharness one of them, and escape on horseback. She was shot in the endeavor. One Indian only lost his life. Horses and goods were, of course, stolen. A party that went in search of the murdered family, found the dead bodies several days thereafter. The Pah-Utes charged the massacre upon the Navajos, but it is generally believed that the former were the authors of the crime.118 We expected to meet the expedition at this place, but were disappointed. Some miners were here encamped. Becoming dis­gusted with prospects in Utah, they soon started for mines in Arizona. We look about to get our bearings. As no map of this region has yet been published, the following sketch will give the reader some idea of the topography of the country: Standing on the walls of Windsor, at Pipe Springs, Mount Trumbull can be distinctly seen 50 miles to the west. South lies Kaibab, 9000 feet above the level of the sea, and 3500 from the plain. The summit of this plateau is level. It extends across the Colorado into Arizona. Rising from its southern rim, are the San Francisco Mountains. In the lee of a long line of red cliffs, east of Pipe, nestles the village of Kanab. At that point, the Kanab Wash heads; running south 60 miles, it cuts through the plateau, and empties into the Colorado. The general course of the Colorado through this country is east and west. Going east, up the river, we find the Pahria; at its mouth, 2 boats were left when we went into winter-quarters. Next is a stream, called by our men Birch Creek [upper Escalante River]; still farther up, the Dirty Devil. At the junction of the latter with the main river, we secrete [d] one boat. The pack-train having failed to meet us there, as per programme, and being out of photographic material, the intention is to go back overland, bring the "Canonita" down, and complete the series of views. West of Pahria, the Rio Virgen is the next tributary. Thence, the Colorado turns sharply south, a large, navigable stream, emptying at last into the Gulf of California. It must be remem­bered that I speak only of the country and rivers north of the Colorado. Our surveys and travels by land are from the Rio Virgen to the Dirty Devil. It is, for the most part, a mountain­ous, waterless desert. Upon its borders. Mormon setdements are thinly scattered. In the more fertile valleys, Indians dwell- begging, thieving, treacherous tribes. This will suffice for all future letters. Reference to the description will explain our wan- MaFor a more detailed account see Peter Gottfredson, History of Indian Depredations in Utah, Salt Lake City, 1919, pp. 181-183. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 409 derings. At House Rock Valley, midway between the mouth of the Pahria and the settlement, 40 miles east of Kanab, the latitude is 36 degrees 58 minutes north, longitude 111 degrees 20 minutes west of Greenwich. About Mount Trumbull are lesser peaks, named Emma, Lucy, Stanton, 6 c They are of volcanic origin (I do not mean the ladies), and form the rim of extinct craters; extinct only apparently-they (the mountains) may break out at any time. The region, for many miles about, is covered with lava. Basalt, the latest eruptive rock, is piled about in the strangest forms. This outpouring of subterranean fires must have been a mag­nificent spectacle. The eruption was certainly upon a colossal scale. Great rivers of fused minerals have poured through the pine forests, deluged the valleys, and, at one place, reached the Colorado. The most singular spectacle presented is a ragged line of lava-cliffs. If a mass of summer-clouds, fantastically shaped, ebon-colored, had turned to stone, and fallen in a con­fused heap, the sight would have been similar. Thompson's party reached camp the day after our arrival. Having run out of other supplies, the men had fared sumptuously on beans. Storms had driven them from Trumbull, with work unfinished. Operations have necessarily been slow and arduous. Summer comes apace, and we cannot linger or delay. Dodds took a division to the mountain. "Prof." with another, left for St. George. [Alfred] Young started out after horses. Three men were directed to climb the Pine Valley Mountains; and I was left to guard camp. Was visited by Indians. Frank, Chief of the Kaibab Indians, was bedaubed with yellow, red, and black ochres; gorgeously arrayed in a red flannel shirt, resplendent with beads; and rode a Navajo horse. Soon, other Indians ap­peared like apparitions. They demanded "blour" [flour] and meat. The number increased, until a party arrived with a pack-horse, ex­pecting to load it with provisions and other gifts. I gave them a lunch all around, and told them to piqua-go. Monday, April 15. Jones, Johnson, and Andy came in. They failed to make the top of Trumbull, on account of snow. In the descent, Andy slipped and fell. He shot like an avalanche from bank to bank, rattling over rocks, spinning over chasms. After a flight of 200 feet, he landed safely, as if he was accustomed to that kind of sport. Thompson returned on the 17th. This is the day commemorated by the Mormons as the anniversary of the prisoners' release at Salt Lake City.1" One of our men, being "The reference is to the decision of the U. S. Supreme Court in die Engelbrecht Case, rendered April 15, 1872, which overturned judicial pro­ceedings in Utah during die previous 18 months and declared null indictments against some 120 Mormons, many of whom were in prison. See Robert J. Dwyer, 77ie Gentile Comes To Utah. Washington, 1941. 410 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY of Saint-like and spiritual tendencies, celebrated the event with great hilarity-a case of "Erysipelas" resulting.115 Wild ducks are very plentiful, and we indulge in the sport of shooting them. I went, with a companion, to Kanab-returning alone. The journey was prolonged by the exhaustion of saddle and pack-horse from recent mount [ain] trips. Again encountered trains of miners. The excitement is fast ebbing away. April 22. Wagon sent to Toquerville, 10 miles east, for the Indian gifts. At the solicitation of Major Powell, the Gov­ernment sent stores from Salt Lake City to be distributed by our expedition among tribes deemed most needy and deserving. The Sheberites [Shivwits] were considered objects of charity. April 24. A party left for St. George, on its mission to the redskins of untutored minds. Some misapprehension on the part of the latter led to the rather amusing circumstance of white men pursuing a tribe for the purpose of giving good things, and the Indians retreating in haste, as from a relentless foe. The Sheberits dwell on the mountains and in the valleys about Mt. Trumbull. These were the people that ambushed and killed 3 men of Powell's first expedition. It appears that they have been watching our movements all winter. They finally [firmly?] believed that the sole object of this enterprise was to avenge the death of the murdered men. When we started for Trumbull, the savages fled to the settlement for protection. When our humane Professor sought a council at St. George, the Shebs, quaking with fear, would not listen; their ears were stopped up, and all that sort of thing. This talk was cotch-wano-no good. Wickiups left standing, and recent trails, indicated a hasty retreat. When the cunning rascals became convinced that the Great Father at Wash­ington had really sent them gifts, then Thompson's talk was To-wich- wana; ou-wick-er-am!-Very good; yes, indeed! The tribe speedily collected. The braves, 150 in number, were seated in a semi-circle. The Professor harangued. Adair interpreted, and Jones conducted his part of the ceremony in a creditable and awe-inspiring manner. The motley groups that filled the background chanted "There'll be no sorrow there," or something equally ap­propriate. The presents-consisting of cloth, blankets, hoes, knives, shirts, pans, axes, 6c-were impartially distributed, all receiving some share of the Government's bounty. I said all [but] that was a mistake. The exercises were concluding with a general hand-shaking and expressions of good-will, when a dusky warrior was seen riding furiously to the pow-wow, screech­ing in Indian jargon, "Hold on! One more Injun!" He was too late, however, his blanket is folded about some more fortunate comrade. The Chief made a speech, to which our Chief replied. Dancing and singing closed the ceremony. '"Compare Jones's journal entry for April 17. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 411 On the 25th, Dellenbaugh came to camp, exhausted with travel and hunger. He had become separated from Dodd's party on the morning of the 24th and wandered about nearly two days, without food. Any one who has traveled in a pine forest on a mountain side, with no guide, trail, or landmarks, can ap­preciate the situation. Dodds reported on the 26th, rejoicing to find Fred safe. On the 29th, we broke camp at Berry Springs, the men being divided, and work apportioned, as usual. Some were to climb the Pine Valley Mountains; the photographer to take views up the Virgen; others to Pipe with wagon and surplus baggage; the rest of us going to Beaver Dam Mountains for topographical surveys. Our objective point was the highest peak of the range, Mount Turner [Mt. Bangs?], 30 miles south of St. George. We crossed the Rio Virgen, and followed it for some 10 miles. It is a narrow, shallow stream, flowing, as do all the southern tributaries of the Colorado, over quicksands. It winds about among hills, cliffs, and sage-encumbered plains. From the summit of a ridge, the village of Washington came to view. For months, we have seen nothing but sand, and sage, and rock-gray, desolate landscapes, with an occasional oasis of pine. Here, at our feet, is suddenly revealed something like civilization and human life. The place contains about 500 in­habitants. The houses, of adobe, stone, and pine, are all neatly whitewashed or painted, and environed by shrubbery. The gardens are green with growing vegetation. Double rows of cottonwoods and locusts mark each street. The Virgen runs below the town, and beyond that lies the farm. There is a large woolen factory in successful operation here. Brigham Young built it, set it agoing, and sold it to the place. It is run by water power. Five miles beyond is St. George, the largest town in the Territory, save its capital.113 It has a population of 1500, and, in a Territorial sense, is a lively place. There is a Court House here, two hotels, and half-a-dozen stores. There is also a Taber­nacle, and a Temple is begun. The citizens intend making the latter the finest in the Church, except the one at Salt Lake. The estimated cost is $300,000, to be paid out of the general tithing fund. The foundation only has yet been laid."' The dif­ference between a Tabernacle and a Temple is this: In the former, the general business of the Church is done. The Temple is solely devoted to religious uses. The priests are therein anointed, and the most sacred rites performed. Every faithful ""Although the largest Utah town Clem had yet seen, St. George was considerably smaller than Ogden or Provo. "The St. George Temple, completed in 1877, was the second one begun and the first completed in Utah. Temple, Tabernacle, and Court House still stand in St. George. 412 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY Mormon is expected to pay one-tenth of his annual gains to the Church. This fund is used in the erection of public buildings, formation of new settlements, extension of railway and telegraph lines, 6 c I am here reminded of an error made in copying a letter,* in which the statement appears that Mr. [Amos Milton] Musser has the spiritual oversight of Kanab. He is in charge of the telegraph. Steward [Levi Stewart] is the Bishop there. A Mormon Bishop has added to his spiritual functions those of a civil magistrate as well. A set sermon is seldom required in a country-place. Once or twice on Sundays, the people meet at the Tabernacle. Any one so moved arises, and speaks upon Church affairs, and kindred topics, or discusses measures of public enterprise and general welfare. The Bishop presides, adding suggestions, or making exhortations, as occasion requires. A hymn is sung, and the services conclude. Dancing is a popular amusement, and always begins with prayer. A Mormon's social standing is largely determined by the number of his wives and children. A Saint is not allowed to marry more wives than his income will support. Ten or 15 years ago, the sites of these now thrifty towns were adorned with sage-bush, and rich with sand. The settlers, by irrigation, have pro­duced fine gardens and productive fields. The farms are not owned and worked by individuals. Each contributes a certain amount of labor, and receives a corresponding share of the crops. Approaching these towns from the desert, they appear attrac­tive, embowered, and almost hidden with foliage. Indians haunt the villages, and generally earn the biscuit given, by odd jobbing. Bishop Snow [Apostle Erastus Snow], President of Southern Utah, lives at St. George. President Young also has a [winter] residence here, where one of his wives resides. A son of Bishop Snow is about starting as a missionary to England. He was serenaded by the band the evening before the departure. It is not an uncommon occurrence for the wives of prominent and wealthy Mormons to live in separate villages. April 29. Crossed the Santa Clara and the Virgen. One horse was nearly drowned in the quicksand while making the passage. The Santa Clara comes in from the northwest, and unites with the Virgen below St. George. On the road to the moun­tains, Indian wickiups are scattered about. Mrs. Thompson ac­companied the Professor on this trip, being desirous of making botanical collections, and inspired by a love of adventure. The Indians swarmed about as we passed; when they caught sight of the lady, they shouted in astonishment, "Squaw! Squaw!" The * [Footnote in Chicago Tribune] Mr. Powell's letters are often written with pencil. After a long transit by horseback, stage, and rail, the MSS. arrived soiled and torn. Hence occasional errors in copying. Amanuensis [Morris B. Powell]. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 413 Chief guided us a short distance on the trail. He was offered some beads and a looking-glass to show us the first water-station. That seemed "too thin" for the noble red man. He professed to be very tired, but intimated that the present of a blanket might relieve his weariness. This was refused, whereupon the shrewd fellow professed to be very hungry for tobacco. "Prof." replied, "Cotch tobacco," and we drove on. Traveled until nightfall, but found no water. Made a cake with the small supply left in the canteens. Next morning were off without breakfast. The bold and striking scenery had few attractions for men hungry and athirst. Over ridges, through valleys, between the narrowing walls of canons, our devious course led us. In many singular shapes and weird fancies are the lava-formations. There are bristling ram­parts, ragged walls, big boulders of basalt. Fred found a little water at noon. It was surcharged with alkali, and horrible to drink. After we quenched thirst, the horses drank the spring dry. The one with cleanest hands made bread. Water was too scarce and precious a fluid for washing purposes. The way led down to the Grand Wash, which runs south to the Colorado River. A water-pocket found in a canon proved a treasure indeed. Being but 15 miles from our destination, Mt. Turner, we en­camped. "Prof." and Dellenbaugh were occupied 3 days in making observations. Adair, in scouting about, found trace of recent depredations by the Indians. Stock had been stolen from some ranch near, cooked, and eaten. May 5. Started for Pipe, via St. George. The second day out, stopped at Fort Pierce [Pearce]. There is a spring here, at the head of a short caiion. The fort is like other frontier outposts. It is built of stone, with a corral adjoining. The structure is strong, and large enough to shelter saddle animals in case of Indian attack and siege. Protected from the rain, we camped within the deserted walls, feeling that a fashionable hotel could offer few greater luxuries. We struck the road now building by the Mormons. It is unfinished, and proved worse than the old trail. At Hurricane Ledge, we had great difficulty in getting the animals to the top. Notwithstanding ceaseless rains, we journeyed on to Pipe. Found the remainder of the expedition, save Dodds and Andy. Moved to our old camp near Kanab,"8 and prepara­tions for the Dirty Devil trip began. Eleven men will undertake this journey. As it is in the country of the Red Lake Utes, a hostile tribe, all will be well armed. May 14. Dodds is just in, and reports that we have been ""Concerning the returned travelers, Bishop noted in his journal for May 12: "Mrs. T[hompson] looks careworn and thin. It has been a pretty rough trip on her. Fred looks well but rough as an old frontiersman. Clem appears as comical as a clown with all of his whiskers cut off but his moustache." 414 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY plundered by the miners. Our caches at the mouth of the Pahria have been dug up, and the contents scattered to the winds and wolves; the valuables stolen. We lose specimens, boat-requisites, and camping utensils. The greedy grabbers took our life preserv­ers. One boat they failed to find, although a hundred holes or more were dug in search. Rafting on the Colorado has been tried by the miners. One company thought it was safer to float down the Marble Caiion than go thither via Kanab Wash. The raft went to pieces in the first rapid, and the navigators were nearly drowned. They escaped with their lives, but lost all their effects. Imprisoned in a high caiion, thefir] predicament became precarious. On one side, a frowning wall; on the other, a terrible river. No egress above or below was offered by the narrow margin of sand and pebbles. After great exertions, the shipwrecked mariners placed poles from ledge to ledge, and, by climbing these, managed to scale the face of the cliff, and walk to the settlements, without food. Another party had a similar experience at a rapid on the Colo­rado near Diamond River [Diamond Creek], at the foot of Grand Caiion. The river is 20 feet higher than when we left it, and the floods are driving the miners away. Gold-dust is sold here at $16 per ounce. Men have flocked here from California, Montana, Nevada, Arizona, and Idaho. One company, numbering 17, sent scouts down the Wash, and up in the Dirty Devil country, prospecting. A Spaniard accompanied the latter expedition as guide. After some time had elapsed, one of the number sent up the Colorado returned, telling a doleful tale. He reported that there was no gold in that country; that his comrades had gone to the Navajo region, except the Spaniard. This unfortunate foreigner had been stripped by the Indians, and, in a starving condition, had started for the settlements. The reporter claimed to have been "alkalied" by bad water, and undergone incredible hardships. The main body of the miners, discouraged by a story so dismal, returned to Pioche. The scout ostensibly started to see a very particular friend at Salt Lake City, but it has since been ascertained that the hero of hairbreadth escapes went back to Potato Valley. The Spaniard's martyrdom proved imaginary. This circumstance leads to the belief that gold has been found. May 20. An Indian pow-wow was again in order. For some time the Kaibab Indians have been hanging about in ever-increasing numbers. Having heard that goods were on the way for them, they have carelessly inquired, "How many sleeps (days) blankets come?" They are always hungry, firmly be­lieving that a feast is vastly better than enough. Andy makes them rustle sage-bush and pack water in part payment of the biscuit they consume. They call Major Powell "Copperades" JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 415 [Kapurats] (arm off). We have them make moccasins for us; they are the easiest shoes to travel in [that] the world can pro­duce. While making these notes, squaws, papooses, and braves have gathered about, squatting in a circle. "Prof." told them that the Big Chief at Washington wanted very much to see them. I accordingly took their pictures. Ham[b]lin acted as interpreter. This is Frank's band. After receiving the presents, the red men became very vain, looking with scorn on a common white man. The Moquis and Navajos are the only Western tribes that weave blankets. In the subjugation of the latter, a long war was required. The Navajos seem to have fought with considerable persistence and pluck. Thousands of their sheep were killed, and large peach orchards cut down. The Indians were finally driven into a caiion surrounded by troops, and all escape cut off. This proved a Waterloo to the Savages, and they are quite peaceable now."8 We hear that the Apaches are restless. All are extremely busy. To-morrow we start up the river, and will bring down the boat, if possible. Then the canon trip, and home. It is 3 o'clock in the morning as I finish the last sheet. At 5:00 we are off. Clement Powell. Ill In Camp, June 12 [1872J.1" This warm summer morning tempts one to the tent. I im­prove a brief interval of rest in writing. Going back in the calendar to May, we and the party at the old quarters near Kanab. The Indians to whom patents were given are cultivating a small patch of land with the newly-acquired implements. The children of the desert are necessarily industrious in gaining even scant supplies from so ungenerous a mother. When a happy fortune sends a Government expedition among them, supplied with food and valuables, the astute red man promptly presents his claims. Dusky groups hover about, offering aid and asking for gifts. Andy boiled a lot of beans one day, to serve for dinner. An Indian whiffed the tempting odor from afar, and begged a supply, " T h e military operations Clem describes were conducted by Kit Carson in January, 1864, in the Canon de Chelly. ""Reprinted from the Chicago Tribune, September 5, 1872. From the dateline, this letter was written at Kanab. 416 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY declaring he had eaten nothing for two days. One of the boys emptied an entire box of Jayne's Pills in the pot, and cheerfully mixed them in. The savory dish was then given the starving brave. The latter took hold well at first; but the last three or four dozen pills failed to give a relish, the sugar-coating having peeled off. The proprietors of the medicine can get a first-class certificate from that sufferer. The eyes of the red man have all the seeming of a demon's that is dreaming, but the sunlight o'er him streaming casts no shadow on the floor; oh no! he is alto­gether too thin for that. He is waiting patiently for Andy's scalp-lock to hang up in his lodge. The Ute nation has been large and powerful since the setde-ment of Southern Utah, until recently, the Utes have proved troublesome. The Kanab band was particularly active, fighting the Mormons and their neighbors with equal promptness and impartiality. Frank, the Chief, stationed some of his warriors in the fort at the river, where they fought with the whites against the Navajos. One winter Frank was out hunting on the Buckskin range and saw a party of raiders. He started immediately for the fort to give warning. After wading through deep snow­drifts for more than 30 miles, he arrived at the garrison in an exhausted condition, being able only to ejaculate, "Navajo! Navajo!" Scouts were sent out next morning, but seeing no hostile redskins, or signs of marauders, they returned, calling Frank a liar. The Chief's report was soon emphatically verified, however. A large amount of stock suddenly disappeared, includ­ing 600 sheep. The animals were driven across the Colorado. The cunning Navajos sprinkled sand on the ice to hurry over the herds. The winter of 1867 was one of the coldest ever known in this region. The Colorado was frozen over at the fords. Our party, with the wiry little Professor at its head, moved southeast to Eight-Mile Spring."1 Finding little water there, the march was continued to Johnson's Canon. Here are water and grass in abundance. We were soon encamped above the ranch. A Mormon marriage took place next day-Sunday. A wedding tour being a necessity in stylish affairs of this sort, a requisition was made upon our stock of saddles and bridles. The happy pair, seated on one horse, were followed by groomsmen and bridesmaids mounted in the same social fashion. Our work was to climb Point B-an important geodetic point. It is 20 miles southeast of Kanab, and 2 north to Navajo Well. It rises from the Vermilion Cliff, ranging back from Kanab. Fennemore, having been ill, remained in the rear. On the journey to our camp, he got lost, not knowing the trail. Wearied by mid­night, he went to sleep. His mule struck for higher wages mean-mThey were setting out to find the elusive Dirty Devil River. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 417 while, and, when the photographer awoke his means of locomo­tion were limited. He had no water, and was thirsty; no food, and was hungry; he wandered far, and was exhausted; had no mule, and was very wroth. Adair was out hunting horses next morning, and discovered him. Mule and equipment were found next day. These common experiences in the campaigner's life are not particularly relished by the novice. Bishop and Beaman dined with us recently. They started for the Moquis Towns, but could not cross the river. They report the Pahria very high. The Colorado is more than ever formidable, pouring the floods and freshets of all its tributaries from wall to wall. Our old camp near the crossing is submerged; the boats are in danger of being carried away. The snows of the winter past, and the rains of the spring, have been unpre­cedented for length and severity. We are in constant fear of losing the boats by molesting miners or encroaching waters. Our guests, when returning, saved the "Nell" from capture. Calculations being completed, horses shod, and packs ad­justed, 10 men, with 23 animals, expected to make the stream of elegant name in 8 days. Alas! his Majesty is the hardest to find where there are the fewest people. The worst place of all to seek him is at home. We have found the entrance to Hades; it is a horrible, solitary desert. Our objective point was the Dirty Devil [Henry] Mountains. These are 3 [5] in number, standing north of the Colorado, southwest of the stream from which they take their names. Messrs. Ham[b]lin and Dodds, our train-com­manders, old frontiersmen, and familiar with all the tracks, tried to find the river last year, but failed. Ham[b]lin and Haight then essayed the difficult task. Jacob Ham[b]lin, by the way is brother of the ex-Vice-President of the United States."8 They struck the San Raphael [sic], that flows through Castle Valley, emptying its waters near Gunnison's Crossing."3 Discovering the error they continued the search for the Dirty Devil River, but gave it up at last, reporting their failure to the Major. Powell then sent Ham[b]lin and Dodds again to seek the sombre streams. They took the trail we now follow, and found what "''Someone was pulling Clem's leg, or he was pulling that of his readers. The reference is to Hannibal Hamlin (1809-1891), who was Vice-President during Lincoln's first term. He was born at Paris Hill, Maine, die son of Cyrus and Ann (Livermore) Hamlin. Jacob Hamblin, the Mormon frontiersman, was born April 2, 1819, at Salem, Ohio, die son of Isaiah and Daphney (Hayes) Hamblin. A short sketch of Isaiah Hamblin appears in Frank Esshom, Pioneers and Prominent Men of Utah, Salt Lake City, 1913, pp. 910, 911. "This clarifies the route of various parties sent out to find the Dirty Devil. Dodds and Hamblin apparently went south from Gunnison Crossing (Greenriver, Utah), a natural and comparatively easy route. One day's travel from the San Rafael would have brought them to the Dirty Devil, but they turned back too soon. See note, p. 290. 418 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY has been called Birch Creek. This deeply-channeled water­course was followed until it became evident that no train could be taken down. The scouts then returned, believing they had accomplished their errand. Major Powell had stated that the Dirty Devil was the only stream of any size between the San Raphael and the Pahria; hence the error. At Kanab, the train­men received a dispatch to hurry forward supplies to Crossing of the Fathers, some 30 miles below the Devil, and just above the San Juan. From these details it will be seen how precarious and uncertain, as well as toilsome and dangerous, is Colorado explorations. Had a letter miscarried, or been delayed, the bones of our party would now be bleaching on the shores of the desolate river. We would not have had strength or provisions to last to the Pahria, particularly as we were encumbered with worn and ailing men. May 29. Again in motion, we ascend Johnson's Caiion. Perpendicular walls, from 200 to 500 feet high, rise on either side veined and mottled with all the colors, from gray to ver­milion, with darker shadings, here and there, of lava-rock. Emerging from the painted pathways, we find rough country beyond. To our left, Table Mountain [Table Cliffs, of the Aquari­us Plateau], 2500 feet in height, is conspicuous. The sides we see are a beautiful pink, surmounted with ledges of white lime­stone. Against this brilliant background, the deep green of the pines shows handsomely. Soon the barren plain stretches out before us, with its wearisome world of sage. There are scentless flowers in shady places, bright, hued, and welcome to the sight. The pride of the desert, the queen of the mountain, is the many-tinted cactus. There is a great variety of new and handsome species of this plant in Utah. Mrs. Thompson has safely for­warded living specimens to botanists and friends in the States. A field of many acres, filled with blossoms varying in color from the purest white to the deepest crimson, with yellow, pale-pink, and scarlet intermingled, forms one of those rare sights that partly repay the traveler's toil. The prickly stalks and fleshy leaves of the cacti are fit emblems of the arid fields and desolate rocks from which they spring; but the delicately-pencilled flowers awaken thoughts of the dawning days when we will loose the rein, drop the oar, and hasten to fields more fertile. Having reached a ranch near the terminus of the caiion, we there engaged an Indian guide. The dusky son of the desert put on his more gorgeous ap­parel; it consisted of the crown of a white felt hat, unencumbered with roof or rim. Extracts from a song of a shirt, and a pair of mocassins, completed the airy and simple attire. The pure Ameri­can counts his riches in squaws and horses, not by frilled bosoms and paper cuffs. We gave the guide a horse to ride. The steed JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 419 did not prove a success for bare-back equestrianism. He was an articulated skeleton haired over and should have been labelled, "To be well shaken when taken." We heard here the sequel of the miners' story, as told in my last. The main body of the miners left Pipe Springs with commissary well stocked with whiskey. When near St. George, a free fight was indulged in, and one man killed. The rest are in jail. The Spaniard that came to the settlement stripped and forlorn was detected in an attempt to steal one of our boats. His clothes were found secreted in a sage-bush. Such is "roughing it" out West. Crossing gulches, climbing, descending, afoot, on horseback, slowly we proceed where man has seldom trod and all the Gods of Terror dwell. Buttes, cliffs, mountains, of ever-changing color, shape, and size, are constantly met-some bare, some sage sur­mounted, others crowned with evergreen. At intervals are miniature valleys, each with a winding water-course set with greenest verdure, pleasantly relieving the barren desert between. Now and then we pass through forests of cedar and pine, whose cool shadows and spicy odors prove most refreshing. Nature is grand in all the views presented in this far region; but there is an oppressive feeling of loneliness, and silence, and cruel fate. Tom, the Indian, made a detour to a pretty park, carpeted with grass, and sprinkled with flowers. He wanted us to stop until he could return and tell his people that seeds could be got there. The tribe gather certain sorts of seeds for food. Pack-trains cannot halt for dinner; we toiled painfully on, making no stay until nightfall. Camped at Deer Springs, in a charming little valley, one mile by three in length and breadth. Adair took a fancy to the spot, on account of its abundance of water, wood, and grass. He accordingly put in a pre-emption claim, by describing the boundaries on a stake fixed in the ground. A range of cliffs shelters the lower end, and the ranch may at some time be valuable. At a small pond near [Adair Lake], we found wild duck. After shooting for a time, the wary birds hid in the rushes along the shore. We set fire to the grass and reeds, and managed to get game for breakfast. Three days on the skeleton proved too much for Thomas, our red brother. He complained of many ills. A sack of flour, cached last summer by our men in a tree, beyond the reach of wolves, we failed to find. "Tom" was asked what he knew about stealing flour. The innocent Ute could not remember. As he had not been accustomed to eating, we feared that the sudden change of full and regular meals would prove fatal. A blanket was given him, and he started homeward in a heavy shower, making the 3 days' trip by train in one and a half, afoot. The farther we proceed, the more rough and broken the country appears. Gullies grow more frequent, deep and dry. 420 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY We still keep Table Mountain to our left. Its polished surfaces sparkle and glitter in the clear rays of early morning, and warmly blush in the softer light of sunset. To change the com­parison, this singular mountain suggests a monster melon, sliced and standing on end. It is exactly the color of a ripe, red core; the pines that grow on ledges and benches, black specks at this distance, look like the seeds. The region through which our route now lies was first seen by white men 5 years ago. In 1867 [1866], a Mormon expedition left St. George, with 100 men and 75 pack-animals, led by James Andrews,"* to explore this rerra incognita. They struck Birch Creek [upper Escalante River]. After wide wanderings, they reached Beaver City, and from there set out homeward. At the time these pioneers were in the wilderness, the Navajos made a raid from Arizona among the frontier-setdements. The Pah- Utes were compelled to show where the fattest herds were feeding. The white men in charge of the stock were killed, and their clothes and effects given the Utes as a reward, by the more wily and powerful Navajos. Soon thereafter, a party of pursuing Mormons overtook these Utes on the Kaibab, and seeing them dressed in the garments of the murdered men, shot 7 of them. Two of the band had 3 relatives killed. The bereaved warriors put on their feathers and war paint, and vowed ven­geance in the names of all their deities. Using the romancer's privilege in relating this incident, the scene shifts to the exploring expedition. Six or eight of the younger Mormons being sick with ague, Andrews [Andrus] sent them back, with 15 horses that had given out. One of the horses had a remarkable aversion to Indians, and stubbornly refused to go near them. Andrews directed this animal to be kept ahead, to give them timely warning in case of ambush. Young Everett [Elijah Averett] took the lead in person, disregarding the wise injunction given at starting. Meanwhile, the savages, following the travelers, left the larger party, and covered the trail of the lesser. Arriving at a favorable locality, the attack was made. We now are at the very place [Averett Wash]. Up the steep path before us, the little train came toiling up in single file. In the shade of yonder cedars, whose dense foliage deepens the darkness of the gulch below, stood the determined Utes. At the first fire, Everett fell dead. His young companions were so terrified by the sudden and fatal shot, that they sought safety in instant flight. Some kept up the wild retreat until they reached the main body. One was found wandering delirious among the rocks. One young fellow, of 16, hid behind some logs, and watched. He saw the Indians run down and take the dead man's " T h e James Andrus expedition of 1866 actually discovered the Escalante and Dirty Devil rivers, but did not recognize them as new and unnamed streams. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 421 scalp and valuables. The lad had a repeating rifle, with which he kept the Indians covered. He did not dare to fire, however, fearing, as did his comrades, that a larger force was near. Listening to his sad story, we stand at Everett's grave."" It has been rifled, and presents a sickening spectacle. We replace the remains, hoping they will not again be disturbed. Andrews kept his men together after the occurrence. The Utes made an attack on the house, and were repulsed. I met the father of Everett at Windsor Castle. The place would have been haunted with imaginary horrors, without any touch of the tragic to augment its evil seeming. We had crossed Clear Creek, and at evening camped on the Pahria. The grass and underbrush, dense and matted, proved inconvenient. We set fire to it, and, when a space sufficiently large had been cleared, we fought out the ever-enlarging circle of flame, to prevent a destructive forest-fire. In the ashes a cooked rattle-snake was discovered. Luckily we took him roasted rather than raw. His snakeship was evidently on his way from the cliffs to the water below. Next morning we traveled up the Pahria to its head. Found a blanket, shirt, and empty bottle. Some suggested foul play. More probably the articles were left by miners. The river is muddy and [swol­len]. Jack, having left his ammunition, went back for it. One of the most vexatious and arduous experiences of mountain travel is climbing a hog's back. We have one now before us; a clay bank a thousand feet high, steep and slippery. It is deeply channelled by water-courses, so that man and horse have the choice of falling to the foot or rolling into a chasm. A heavy storm of rain pouring down upon us rendered the ascent still more perilous and difficult. "Yager," an intelligent pack-horse, found his pack sliding to stern, and began backing. Upon reflection and a review of the situation he saw that many plunges would bring on his "last sickness," and waited patiently for aid. It is a common practice among the horses to kick and back until the pack is shaken off. Often brute and burden go rolling to the bottom. Since starting, we have gradually ascended, and have now reached an altitude of 2000 feet above the plain. At the top to the cliff, Potato Valley begins. It is 10 miles long, one across. The formation is red sandstone. Gold-digging, it seems to me, will not pay here. Good crops can be raised without irrigation, as there is plenty of water. It is so high, the weather is cold; so remote, there could be no markets; so inaccessible, roads are impracticable. Magnificent pine trees here abound, straight and tall-200 feet high. Three miles down, a spring bubbles up at "See Dr. Gregory's note, p. 129. 422 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY the foot of a projecting cliff. The valley takes its name from a sort of wild potato found there. It is a plant having two small bulbs attached to its root, one growing below the other. We are sadly deceived, hoping to find some nice edible variety."" Our contributions to the wolf are now considerable, comprising a rifle, a pair of spurs, a sack of meat, and a leather canteen. There is nothing mean about us; we throw things about indis­criminately. Near this locality we saw coal cropping out, and ledges of bituminous shale. Following the sinuosities of the valley - in one of the rain-storms constantly recurring - we find it turns sharply to the south, and canons, but not closely. We struck at this point a lateral branch of the creek, that we supposed was a tributary of the Dirty Devil. The caiion opens out into a second valley; beyond we find the stream much swollen; could not cross and went into camp. The distances traveled, and stations passed, thus far, are as fol­lows: Kanab to Springs, 8 miles; Johnson's Ranch, 9 miles; Adair's Claim, 17 miles; Pahria River, 18 miles; Potato Valley, 20 miles; present camp, 10 miles. We have named Adair's Ranch "Swallow Park," from the myriads of those birds flying over the sunny slopes. [George] Adair is our Indian interpreter, a late acquisition to the party. He abounds in jest and anecdotes; his yarns about the camp-fire would set up a Dime Novel Company for a twelve-month. Adair accompanied Ham[b]lin in the pursuit of the naughty Navajos last fall. When they arrived at the Moquis Towns,"7 a little dog, belonging to Ham[b]lin, attracted the attention of the juvenile Aztecs. The cur, after being badgered and teased for [a] time, jumped from the top of one of the low houses (on which they were collected in council) right into the midst of the little people, and began barking and biting viciously. The youngsters started off, frantic with fear, and yelling vociferously; while the dog, in hot pursuit, nabbed the flying feet and bare legs with wonder­ful industry. The' Navajos shrieked with laughter at the din, and were delighted to see so small an animal do so much execution. They asked Adair if he had a big dog, as spunky in proportion as the little one; if he had, they wanted him, regard­less of cost. These free-booters of the plains are merry fellows, and rank among the most intelligent of all Indian tribes. Dellenbaugh often enlivens camp with sharp sallies. Being out late one night, we fired the signal shots, to direct the wanderer home. Receiving no answer a second volley was fired. Soon a familiar voice cried out, "Confound you! what are you shooting ' T h i s description does not seem to be sufficient to permit a scientific identification of the "wild potato." T n t h e first part of this anecdote, Clem seems to be discussing die "Moquis"' (Hopis), but before he is through, he is talking about tile Navajos. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 423 at me for? I'll let you fellows know where I am with my Winchester." We shot into the air, and could hear as did Fred, the whizzing of the bullets. He thought we were practicing at his sacred person. In addition to a clever pencil, he has another accomplishment-that of sleep-walking. When all are wrapped in slumber, we will be startled by a loud war-whoop, or other ear-piercing cry. Each man will grasp his gun, and scud under bare poles for the nearest sage-bush, momentarily expecting the advance of the entire Indian nation. The mischievous artist then yawns innocently, while we grumbling emerge from the shadows, joining in the chorus of "Confession to the cuss!" Camping in the rain being a necessity rather than choice, tents were put up and out-door work suspended. We watched the rushing, murky, rising waters of the creek. Listening to the drip of the rain on a tarpaulin roof is somewhat different to the cottage-chamber bed of the old song. As a salad for the solitary, we used greens and wild cabbage. Storms abating, we moved down the valley to a point where the creek cuts through the rocky ridge that forms its southern rim. Fennemore nearly lost his life while crossing a miry place. His horse fell, and, in struggling to rise, kicked his rider on the head. The stunned photographer hesitated about "passing in his checks," for a time, but finally concluded to keep them for the present. Thompson and Dodds, coming in, reported vast and level plains, and thousands of acres of meadow-land, stretching out beyond the ridge. Farther down the creek, we camped in the canon's wall. Being detailed for a picture-taking tour, I descended the chasm. The cliffs on either side are of gray sandstone. This stratum contains numerous pockets that hold water for a long time. The gulch grows steeper and deeper, until at last we look sheer down 2000 feet-quite a feat by the way. Has the reader ever tried it? If not, he can gain no idea of the distance from the mere statement of figures. Still farther on, a natural bridge, an arch of solid rock, spans the abyss. It has been sculptured in the long years by invisible but tireless artists. Here also are found Shinemos designs, and a trail, more than an inch deep worn in the solid sandstone by the tread of human feet. To the left, a line of ruddy cliffs can be discerned; the shining sides of Table Mountain can be seen through the haze. At the terminus of the line of cliffs on which we stand, Mount Seneca Howland [Navajo Mountain] looms large and grand. Returning to camp, we learn with surprise and chagrin that we are not upon the Dirty Devil, at all, and could not reach that stream by the route now being taken. In fact, the farther we proceed, the more uncertain become our prospects for find­ing the mysterious river. The D. D. Mountains were seen, and 424 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY it is now certain that we are on the Birch Creek of the early explorers-the same creek mistaken by Dodds and Ham[b]lin for the Dirty Devil. The Professor now remembers this little tributary of the Colorado as what was put down on the maps as Roaring Creek. Densely shaded by willows, and for a long distance hid in the hollows, the waters tumble noisily from the rocky ledge, splashing loudly at last in the main river; hence the name given it by our topographers."8 The query that presents itself in life's solemn moments is the one we now discuss with mingled feelings: Shall we ever see the Devil? By the time this letter is in print we shall be shut in by the Colorado's canoned walls, and mayhap the question will then be solved. Clement Powell. IV [Undated letter.]"8 As stated in last communication, our series of canon views was discontinued for want of photographic material at the mouth of Dirty Devil River. One boat was cached at that point. The country south of the Base-Line having been surveyed and mapped, it now became necessary to continue the exploration in a northerly direction. The party selected for this purpose was accompanied by a photographer and crew, to take the "Canonita" down the river to our old camp, where the fleet awaited her. May 29 we started northward to the Colorado, well mounted and equipped, fearless of danger, hopeful of speedy return. The country became rough and broken; the trails obscure and diffi­cult. Our Indian guide proved worthless and was soon dismissed. After a long and fatiguing journey and delays from floods and rains we reached a swollen stream, supposed to be the one at the terminus of which our boat was hidden. Fennemore was detailed for river work. I went inland in search of the picturesque. Following the windings of the canoned creek we obtained many fine views. Climbing to the top of a high cliff a wonderful pano­rama unfolded before us. "•Probably some small side gulch in flood. Clem's language does not describe the mouth of the Escalante River. ^'Reprinted from the Chicago Tribune, clipping pasted in a scrapbook of Clem's letters in die New York Public Library's Dellenbaugh Collection. The Tribune has been searched from May 1, 1872 to July 31, 1873, without dis­closing die issue in which this letter was printed. MM* ALMON HARRIS THOMPSON "Harry," or the "Prof.." as he appeared in the field about 1872. A portrait of Thompson as he appeared in later life is found in this Quarterly, 1939, vol. VII, p. 10. Courtesy, William Culp Darrah JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 425 Miles on miles of level and gently undulating plateaus stretched to the far horizon. The tracery of ravines and canons, intricate and multitudinous, appeared like frost-work on a glitter­ing ground. Not a vestige of vegetation or sign of soil was any­where visible. Not a bird in the air, not a moving figure on the land, no life anywhere. South and east, directly before us, stood a trio of mountains, grim, desolate, lava-crowned. No white man has ever set foot upon their rugged sides.180 We are in a region hitherto shunned by all living things. The Sierra Abajo just showed its crest beyond the Colorado. Faint and far rose the Sierra la Sale [sic], overlooking Grand River. To the west Mount Howland lifted high above the desert its forests of pine. These 6 lofty peaks watch in silence their grand but repellant realm. The eternal stillness, the utter solitude, the immense surface of earth and sky, give an overwhelming sense of the littleness and helplessness of man. Returning at nightfall the blaze of the camp-fire seems brighter, and the greet­ings of comrades doubly cheerful, in contrast with the dark and voiceless world without. Thompson reports that we are on the wrong trail; that the stream we seek is many miles beyond; the road thither is over a desert, seemingly impassable for any traveler without wings-a labyrinth of gorges, deep, steep and dry. Want of water is the chief obstacle to the exploration of this country. The air is dry; sand flies in clouds; springs and creeks are few and far between. No animals but those desert born and bred could long live here. We water our horses at a "pocket" hollowed in the side of a cliff. One by one the sure- ""Spanish explorers, and afterward French-Canadian and American trap­pers had, by 1840, discovered and named practically every stream, mountain, and landmark in the West; but because of its peculiar geographical isolation none, so far as the records show, had ever penetrated diat vast area bounded on the north by the San Rafael River, on the south by the Virgin River, on die east by the Colorado River and on the west by the high Utah plateau. Spanish miners from Santa Fe are rumored to have reached the Henrys some­time after 1776. Denis Julien, a French-Canadian trader and trapper, had been on or along the Colorado in this section in 1836, as shown by his in­scriptions. Four Mormons, hiding from the law, are rumored to have found die Dirty Devil about 1862. The James Andrus expedition of 1866 crossed die upper Escalante that year. Other Mormons may have entered Potato Valley soon afterward, but if so their findings seem not to have been known to Hamblin or Dodds. In Capitol Reef National Monument are found die names of J. A. Call and Wal. Bateman, dated Sept. 30, 1871, who list them­selves as prospectors. They would of necessity have followed the Dirty Devil for a considerable distance. But none of these, legendary or factual, left any known record. It remained for Thompson and others of Powell's expedition to traverse and map this unknown land, naming its undiscovered stream and its mysterious mountains-the last great natural features to be placed upon the map of the United States. 426 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY footed fellows slide down some 50 feet of sharply sloping, slip­pery stone, and after quenching thirst scramble to the top. Provisions will not last the lengthened journey. Jones, Adair and I dispatched for more. On 13th June we left Kanab with rations and mail for the party. At Johnson's Ranch we heard of the nomination of Grant and Wilson. Politics are here dis­cussed from a Mormon standpoint."1 Our route takes us up the bed of a dry gulch. The walls are several hundred feet in height, and of gray and dark red sandstone, curiously eroded. Three miles up the canon there is a smooth, bare rock covered with ancient Aztec inscriptions. This is the place of fashionable resort by the Johnsonites-from whom the canon is named-on general holidays and Sunday afternoons. Further along we find marks made by the waters long years ago. The top and bottom stratification show forma­tion in still water, as indicated by diagonal lines. Between these the action of rapid currents is shown by horizontal strata. At another place the floods have worn a passage in the shape of an arched gateway, that is called Eagle Point. Side canons appear at intervals, opening vistas of varied views. Near the terminus of the caiion is an isolated ledge of lava rock, poured forth from an extinct volcano near. All the peaks in this vicinity are vol­canic, and are variously named, as Mount Trumbull, Mount Kolob, 6 c Riding over the plateau we get occasional glimpses of deer, porcupine, pine hens and wolves, but rarely obtain a shot. The Indians are more successful, supplying their camps, at this season, with many a "buckskin." Near Potato Valley a band of Pah-Utes was gathering grass seed, one of their sources of food supply. Grasshoppers are reported having done great damage among the frontier settlements of Utah during the past season. We found an army of them marching westward through the canon. Climbing up and down gulches is very hard work; camping at night without water is still worse. These are common ex­periences, to which the men either become inured or break down and return. The plateau we are now traversing is heavily wooded with evergreens. Blue grass abounds wherever there is earth and moisture. On every hand are terraced cliffs. In the distance tall columnar rocks of vermillion color. We camped in the valley of the Pahria. The scenery is fine. There is the same peculiar sand­stone formation here that gives Mound Canon on the Colorado its suggestive forms. The summits of the cliffs are carved in rounded outlines. In the limestone we have sharp, angular needles and projections, spires instead of domes. One butte of buff sand- ™That is, according to how the interests of the Mormon people were af­fected. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 427 stone strikingly resembles the Mormon Tabernacle at Salt Lake City. The rock is worn perfectly smooth and glistens in the sun. Arrived at Potah [Potato] Valley, our rendezvous; we were disappointed in not meeting the party. Then began a period of waiting and suspense. The first few days we enjoyed the rest, having for weeks been constantly in the saddle. Photographs were taken of everything in sight worthy a place in our collec­tions. The latest mail was read and reread. Political discussions whiled away some of the dragging hours. Those of Mormon faith electioneered for Greeley to the tunes of all his "organs." One from the States voted solid for the Administration, quoting from the Inter-Ocean. Another maintained a decent neutrality. Meanwhile our anxiety for Thompson and his men steadily increased. The route they proposed taking leads through the range of the Red Lake Utes. This tribe is proverbially hostile; rumors were rife at Kanab that it is now troublesome. In July or August last these Indians killed a party of miners. The Mormons, hearing of it, supposed our expedition was massacred. The same restless redskins shot Gunnison and his engineers.132 We concluded at last to follow the trail of our missing com­rades. Had not gone far when the prints of moccasined feet and a barefooted pony were discovered. After covering the trail some distance the Indian tracks diverged to the right and followed a creek. It seemed probable that an ambush had been meditated. A surprise could be easily effected in this network of gulches and ravines. Ever alert ourselves, we followed the trail through pine thickets, over chasms, and up a mountain side. Lava boulders impeded our course. It is difficult to follow a new path over these hard surfaces of melted rock. We grow skilled in campaigners' craft, and follow the progress of the pioneers by the scratches, here and there, of iron hoofs. It is wonderful how horses can travel in this rocky wilderness. The hardy mustang is bred to the business, and climbs nimbly as a cat. We followed far, but were obliged to return unsuccessful in our quest. Found a band of wolves circling about our camp, preparing to seize the rations. A few shots scattered the vocifer­ous thieves. Again a succession of dull days slowly passes, and we are determined to move to the front. Bread was baked, ample stores of "jerky" taken, and off we go. Noticed deserted wickiups, " T h e name "Red Lake" was not commonly used. Later Qem says it was the source of the Dirty Devil River and had been visited by Hamblin. If correct in this, he refers to Fish Lake, which was the summer headquarters for a large band of Utes which ranged in winter along the Dirty Devil and Escalante rivers. They had little contact with the Pahvant Utes who killed Captain Gunnison in 1853. 428 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY probably left in the spring by the Red Lake Utes. We found the boys' first camp in a forest of stately trees by the side of a snow-fed stream. We pushed on over the boulders, huge and round, keeping always in the shade of the pines. Camped at night in a grove of quaking asps, by a mountain brook. Blue grass, knee-deep, made luxurious couches. Crossed, next day, a larger stream; a few miles farther found a scene of surpassing loveliness. Here, on the summit of a mountain, lies an enchanted lake, secluded, beautiful. It is nearly round; % of mile across; the waters clear, cold and sparkling. Fleets of feathered fowl float on the mirror-like surface. On the farther rim peaks stand about, environed with cedars, crowned with pine. From out the lake a brook takes its noisy course southward, through aspen groves. Undine, with all her train of nymphs and naiads, might hold their revels here. A fringe of foliage makes an appropriate setting for this gem of the mountains."8 Here we lingered, hoping for the return of those we sought. Shouldering a rifle, I started for a high peak from which to take observations. No description I can give would faintly outline the grand picture presented or convey an idea of its beauty. Southward, looming large in the foreground, are the Unknown Mountains. They are five in number, the highest in Utah, their altitude being more than 10,000 feet"*-Solitary, volcanic piles rising from a desolate plain. Northward stretch the Wahsatch [Wasatch] Mountains, the highest peaks white with snow, their bases green with verdure. The course of the Colorado could be determined by the well-known peaks that rise beyond, such as Elk Mountain, and others before mentioned. Still farther to the southwest is Mount Navajo. Between them all is a canoned desert, "waste and wide." To one looking over such a vast and nearly level area, through hazy air, it seems as if the horizon was the rim of a great sea. A mirage of water and shade often tantalizes the thirsty traveler, faint from the heat and glare of the plain. We are on the ridge dividing the valleys of Great Salt Lake [i.e., the Great Basin] and the Colorado. A few miles farther, to the top of the range, gives a view of both. Beaver and the settlements about Sevier are over the crest, some 2 days' journey distant. The southern slope of the Wahsatch has many grassy valleys, watered by miniature lakes, and affording excellent pasturage. We did not dare to go farther. If the rations left "The top of the Aquarius Plateau, or Boulder Mountain, contains hundreds of hidden lakes. It would be impossible to identify tiiis one specifically, but it was probably near the head of Pleasant Creek. "The Henry Mountains are by no means so high as the Uintas, but they rise more abruptly from the surrounding terrain. They vary in height from Mt. Holmes, 7,930 feet, to Mt. Ellen, 11,485 feet above sea level.