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Show JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 293 and White rivers. Beaman shot a beaver swimming but it hid away among the driftwood and we could not get it. We met "our Indian" again on the right-hand bank. He and his squaw were painted up more than ever. They had killed a "buckskin." We gave them some sugar for a little of it and so we will have venison for dinner. He begged for flour and biscuit but we did not stop to fool with him, so we bade him good-bye, I hope forever. They always build their wickiups in an open space; will not go under the shade of a tree for fear it will fall on them I guess. Ran about 8 miles, landed on right-hand bank for dinner at 11:30. Cut our way through the willows. We ran aground once or twice in coming down; the river is very shallow, has fallen 2 or 3 feet since we first landed at Fort Robodeau. While dinner was in progress Prof, and Steward in wandering around found a couple of Indian graves. Learned that Jones while at Brown's Park, found the grave of Hook, one of the party that was drowned in running rapid in Red Canon. We started out at 2:00. The river winds between low bluffs, now on one side and now on the other and through a desolate, monotonous valley. Beaman killed a badger; it was not good for anything, and so left him on the bank. Soon we heard a noise on the right-hand bank in the woods. We landed and Beaman, Fred, Andy and I forced our way through a dense thicket of brush. Soon Beaman scared up a couple of deer; they ran down a short ways, swam the river and landed on an island % of a mile down stream. We pulled out after them, landed on said island and while beating the brush scared them out. Fired several shots at them but without effect. They swam the river and were soon out of sight. Started down and about % after 5 camped on the right-hand side for the night. Cut some willows for our bed. In the meanwhile Beaman and Bishop went down stream a short ways and killed some beaver but did not get them. Jones and Jack started out after supper to try to get some but were too late. We heard them splashing and squealing during the night. Fred shot at an otter about 300 yards off, came near hitting it. There are low bluffs on each side of the river and a most desolate country beyond them and for 100 miles not a green thing to be seen. Aug. 6th. It being Sunday Prof, has decided to stay here. Beaman has a sick headache. Prof., Steward, Jones and Jack started out for a walk in the morning over the river to see what was to be seen. Saw nothing but desolation. Reread my letters while lying under the shade of a tree on a buffalo robe. Finished "As You Like It." I don't like it. We made some lemonade. Today has seemed more like a Sabbath than any other in a long time. After supper read part of my diary to Bish and Steward, the events of June 27th. Gave Andy a blue pill. Took a stroll 294 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY to the foot of the bluff, rather picturesque. Went swimming after dark. Had a pleasant chat with Capt. Bishop. Aug. 7th. Broke up camp at 7:30. Our way is through a most desolate country, low bare bluffs of all shapes and sizes with a few trees and shrubs scattered at their base makes up the view, while the river is still and shallow. We ran on several sandbars and had to get out and pull the boat across them. Some of the boys shot a beaver and killed him but it sank and did not get it. Landed at 10:00 for dinner. Prof., Steward and Bishop went back on the hills to work, 6 c I suppose my letter I sent from Uintah reached N[aperville] on Saturday last with the pictures. While Jack and Andy are getting dinner I am writing my diary here on a log in the shade of a tree. Read Shakespeare. Capt. and Prof, came in after dinner and Steward shortly after, climbed a butte 1500 feet high. Found an Indian trail and couple of graves on top. We have entered the Canon of Desolation. These low bluffs are gradually growing higher and higher, and desolate enough it looks with its bare gray rocks and earth barren and sterile with never a shrub nor green thing on them except close to the river's brink. I forgot to mention in my diary 2 or 3 days ago that there is a romance about "Douglas' Boy" and bride. It seems that he is a Uintah Ute, while she [is] a White River squaw and was promised to a brave of that branch, but loving her present spouse the best, they ran away and were married at Uintah and are now going it on their own hook while the other brave is hunting for them threatening their lives. W e started out at 2:00 and of course running on a sand bar now and then. Towards night we saw plenty of beaver and a number of shots were wasted on them. Some were hit. Prof, killed one near shore and with many a flirt and flutter landed him into the boat. Soon we landed for the night on the left-hand side of the river and while the rest were busy preparing for the night Bish and I skinned the beaver. We worked away at it till 8 o'clock and after dark on going up to camp found our supper all cold and the fire about out. We immediately went to work and got a good warm supper. Made some syrup, 6 c , and had a gay time eating by the firelight. Our amusement caused some growling from the occupants of the beds but we cared not but still ate on and talked. Presently Fred joined us and we finished the food. Aug. 8th. Broke up camp at 7% and again started down. The "Emma" and "Nell" ran aground the first thing. The walls are growing higher but present the same aspect. Ran about 2 miles and landed. Will stay till after dinner for Steward has work to do. Beaman took a picture of Echo Canon, a lateral caiion coming down on the opposite side of the river. The echoes are very fine here, giving 3 or 4 at a time. We had some beaver for breakfast. Do not like it very well. Steward found the re- JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 295 mains of a buried city back from camp.88 A well is all that remains. While Andy is getting dinner ready, Fred, Jack, and I are writing our diaries, while Prof, is reading, Bish working on his map-all under the same tree in the shade. Beaman has a headache. Started out at 1:00. The walls are vertical with talus, are regular and "alcoving," forming or assuming all kinds of shapes and figures such as castles, castle walls, churches and houses. Ran a small rapid, first we have seen since leaving Craggy Caiion. It sounded familiar, however. Dropped down a mile and landed to take the 2 o'clock observation and to take a picture, which while we were doing it, concluded to remain till tomorrow to take some more. Have to wait for a favorable light. Camped under some trees, spread our blankets and took our ease. Prof, and Jones took a climb out to see the country. Nothing but desolation. Helped Bish with his 9 o'clock observation. Aug. 9th. After breakfast the Prof., Beaman, Jack, Fred and I, with boxes on our backs, climbed the canon wall back of us. 'Tis very thin, only a few hundred feet from river to river, which doubles here. Beaman took a picture but 'twas not a good one, the weather being cloudy and threatening rain too, so concluded to leave the boxes up there and wait till tomorrow. On reaching camp it had commenced to rain. We put up our "paulins," spread our blankets under them, read Shakespeare and geology. We had some good biscuits for dinner. After dinner Prof., Steward and I went across the river, climbed up a dry gulch and tried to climb out. Got within about 200 feet of the top and could go no farther and so came back. The picturesque-ness and queer shaping or cutting of the rocks makes up for the absence of trees or shrubs. Went down a little farther and walked up a dry gorge. The echoes are fine too. Came back at about 5:00. Read Shakespeare some. Aug. 10th. After breakfast the Prof., Beaman, Jones, Fred, and myself climbed the ridge; took several fine pictures. While Beaman was taking them, finished "Taming of the Shrew." When we reached the boxes found that some small animal had gnawed off the buckskin strings around the tripod and had lugged off one of the thumb screws. We hunted awhile but could not find it. Am sorry, it will be such a bother putting up the "howitzer." We reached camp at about 10:30 and concluded to have an early dinner here and start off after it. Packed the boats and dropped down % mile. Stopped to take a picture of the gorge we climbed yesterday. Beaman prepared the plate and I exposed it but deranged the separator and spoiled the picture. Beaman tried with better success. Took 2 o'clock observation and then started again. Ran a small rapid. The walls are growing "Along Hill Creek, east of tiiis place in Uintah County, are found many cliff dwellings and prehistoric fortresses. 296 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY higher and more picturesque. Now and then we see a peak with a few straggling cedar trees. The walls are cut up into all kinds of shapes. Saw a good representation of a mortar and pestle standing by itself on a projecting rock 700 or 800 feet high, also saw a cannon, 6 c , 6 c , 6 c The current is growing a little better and sand bars less frequent. The "Emma" and "Nell" ran on one or two. We have fairly entered the Canon of Desolation, the walls on both sides 800 or 900 feet in height with lateral canons, gorges, and gulches cutting them up. Saw a wall with a large hole through it, something on the natural bridge order. Called it the "Outlook of Desolation." Andy being unwell I did most of the rowing. Landed for camp at 6:00 on left-hand bank among a thicket of rushes. Cleaned out the boat. Bish and Fred are getting supper while I am writing this. Aug. 11th. Got up at 5:00. Helped Jack to get breakfast, after which Prof., Steward and Bish climbed out of the canon 1200 feet high, while Beaman prepared a plate and I exposed it in the camera; came out all O.K. We then packed up the "Canonita" and Beaman, Jones, Andy and myself dropped down % of a mile to take some views of the canon around the bend. Went back about 300 yards and I prepared a plate while Beaman exposed it. Am getting so I can take a very fair picture. Took a view of a rock showing the action of the water plainly. While taking them the Prof, and Steward came down and met us. When we got back to camp found Bish had come down the other way, and the rest of the boys and boats there, also, and dinner just about ready. Started out shordy after 12 M and ran a small rapid full of rocks all right. A short distance ahead came to another small one, but rapid water and full of rocks. The "Nell" struck a rock but slid off all safe. The "Emma" ran on a large flat rock and stuck there for 10 minutes which can be laid to Jones's poor management. The "Canonita" struck the same rock that the "Nell" did and swung her stern around and stove a hole through her. 'Twas Beaman's fault; ought to have prevented it. We rowed her ashore, hauled her out of the water and fixed her up. Delayed us about an hour, and started out again. Soon came to another rapid. While the Prof., Jones and Beaman went ahead along shore to look at it, Andy and myself amused ourselves shooting at beaver. They soon returned and concluded to run it. The "Nell" ran it without sticking, though scraping the rocks, the water being shallow, rapid and swift. The "Emma' and "Canonita" grounded and we got out and shoved them through, thanks to Beaman and Jones. Ran another all right and landed for the night on left-hand bank, running 6 miles and 4 rapids, 6 c Jones, Andy, and I got supper; baked my first biscuits-they would have been all right if I had not put so much soda in them. Wiped the dishes while Jones washed them. The walls of the JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 297 canon are ragged pine and cedar trees straggling up their sides, here and there a queer figure or window, height 1200 to 1400 feet. We are beginning to have rapids again; a rapid just below camp. Have spread our blankets on grass. Aug. 12th. The Prof., Steward, Bishop and myself went in bathing after dark last night; rather chilly. This morning Beaman and I unloaded the boat, turned her over and caulked her; had been leaking badly. We started out at 7:15. Last evening after we had gone to bed there came up a regular hurricane of wind, blowing the sand in clouds over us; had to hold onto our hair to prevent that leaving. The Prof, and Bish got up and went down to the boats to see if all was safe. This morning ran the rapid just below camp but had to get out and work by the side of the boat in going through it, it being shallow and rapid, as were the other rapids, 9 in number, that we ran in the forenoon. We saw a deer on the shore % of a mile ahead, landed and tried to get him but it was no go. The river is very shallow and narrow; it winds and crooks in all directions, the walls about 3000 feet high, sloping back and covered with pine and cedar trees; are rough and rugged and seamed with many a ravine, gulch and chasm, lone pinnacles and buttresses projecting in all shapes and forms and in all directions, the banks lined with box elder and cottonwood trees. Landed for dinner at 11:00 on left-hand bank under some cottonwoods. There are quite a number of trees lying on the ground cut down by the beaver. While Jack and Andy are getting dinner I am writing. Jack and Fred went up a mountain to get some pitch for pitching purposes; came in with a little about 5:00. Read most of the afternoon in Shakespeare. After supper cut some willows for our bed. Bish, Steward, Prof, and myself chatted till 9 o'clock. Aug. 13th. After breakfast the Prof., Steward, and Jones climbed out of the caiion for geological work and to see the country, while I took A views, 2 up and 2 down the river; filtered the bath and iron and cleaned things up generally. Had some good bean soup for dinner. The boys came in while we were eating it. Have just learned that while the Prof, was at Uintah he had a $60 Castella compass stolen from him. Have been reading all afternoon. Have got to "Macbeth." After supper had a good bath and swim. Aug. 14th. Broke up camp this morning at 7% and had a sweet time in getting through the rapid just below us. 'Twas very narrow, shallow and swift. We waded it mostly, leading the boat down by hand, stuck on several rocks and ran against others but came through without injury to the boats. Ran the 2 next rapids without trouble; the fourth we let down by line, and the fifth the worst one yet. 'Twas a hard one to get through, current swift and fall of 3 or 4 feet and filled with rocks. We 298 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY let down each boat separately, wading hip deep to guide her and the others holding on to the rocks, while every now and then the boat would give a sudden jerk and some poor fellow at the rope would be floundering in the water and laughed at by his comrades; but his turn to laugh would soon come. Spent about an hour and a half in getting over it and dropping down a short distance; landed for dinner on a sand bank under a huge cottonwood tree on the right-hand side. The portages we have made this morning we have called "kicking" portages, a new way a couple of us fellows have of going to the boat and kicking her off the rocks. While Andy is getting dinner we are in "undress uniform," drying out, with pantaloons, 6 c , on the surrounding limbs. After dinner Beaman took a view of "Fret Water Falls," as we have called them. We started out about 3:00 and dropped down a little over a mile, running a rapid or 2 all right, when we came to another "kicking" portage. Beaman and I took out the photographic machinery, ran the rapid "overland"- in other words walked below it to take views 'while the rest of them let down the boats. I coated the plates while Beaman exposed them. Finding that our bath would not work, gave up the pictures. Just then the boats came round the bend in gallant style. They do look handsome in the water. Found that they had left my gun on the rocks behind, so Bish and I went back after it. Drank some spring water we found; not very good-too much alkali. Came back, found supper ready, after which I cleaned my gun while the Capt. cleaned his pistol. We concluded to make a chess board and play chess after this from 8:00 to 9:00 while waiting for the observation. Made it on the Capt.'s poncho; worked till 9% on it, finished it and went off the [to] bed. Aug. 15th. After breakfast we took some pictures. Beaman exposed the plates while I coated them. Started out about 10:00, shortly after the other boats, and soon came up with them % mile below at the head of a regular "knocker" of a rapid where we made another "kicking" portage and then ran 4 more. We called the first rapid "Five Point Rapid" on account of there being 5 peaks in sight of it. Jones and Jack were ducked while holding on to the rope and all of us wet up to our waists. Landed on the left-hand bank at the head of another bad rapid, for dinner at 12%, and another drying performance was enacted. While I am writing this Capt. and Fred are fencing in horizontal flannels. Prof, has gone down to look at the rapid. Just a year ago today Frank Morse, Fred Dudley, Bob Barnard and myself started on a hunt. Ah, me, I wish I were at home. I suppose Birdo is enjoying himself today; I would like to see him. We only made 5 miles yesterday. We are averaging 10, 12 or 15 miles a day. The rapids are numerous, bad and close together, the river making bends at about every % mile and a rapid at every JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 299 bend. Heigh ho! Last night the Capt. found the barometer of die "Nell" broken and this morning tried to fix it. Started out at 2:15; made another kicking portage just below dinner station over a bad rapid, I wading and kicking at the bow of the boat and now and then being dragged over the rocks, and again hanging on when the water was beyond my depth, Beaman at the stern and Andy at the stern oars, each crew letting down its own boat. We soon came out in clear water only to run another rapid which we did without getting out. After running that, came to another roarer that was so bad that one boat was let down at a time-the "Canonita" first with the cooking utensils; Andy walking down to our supper camp to prepare supper while we let down the other 2 boats, two men hanging onto her sides, the rest of us to the ropes. Soon were safely moored for the night at the head of another "little rapid around the corner." The "Canonita" leaks badly; has had some hard thumps. Beaman is very careless and reckless, the Prof, is dissatisfied with him. We found a footboard belonging to the "No Name" at camp. Helped Andy to cook some rice for supper. Cut some willows for our bed. We are landed on right-hand side on a sand bank. After supper Bish and I built a bright fire and played chess. Aug. 16th. The Prof, has concluded to stay here today to rest, 6 c He and Jones went across and down the river to see ahead. They report rapids till you can't rest. On the top of a bluff opposite is a butte for all the world like a street car. The scenery here is grand; the walls are broken into peaks averaging from 2000 to 3000 feet, cut and seamed with gulches, ravines, and chasms, and covered with sagebrush, pine, and cedar trees. The boys have put up their paulins for shade but Bish and I sought a cooler place on the rocks under a tree overhanging the river, he to plat his map and I to mend my breeches which have become what Sam Weller calls "ventilated gossomers." Also did some washing. After dinner the Prof, and Bish went up the river for a climb. I took the 2:00 observation after which I went back to my breeches; was soon joined by Steward. We had a pleasant chat about what we would do when we returned home. Bish cut Fred's hair. Reread my letters. After supper played chess with Bish. Helped him take observations at 9:00. It has been so smoky today that Prof, could not climb out nor Beaman take pictures, and so will stay here tomorrow forenoon at least waiting for it to clear up. I have felt lonely and homesick and long for the time of going home. Aug. 7th. It being a little clearer today the Prof., Jones and Steward climbed out after breakfast while Jack and Fred went up a little way after pine gum for the boats and Beaman and I went back to the falls to take some views of it. We took a couple (day before yesterday we ran about 5 miles). When 300 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY we came in at 10:30 found Jack and Fred; they had gathered quite a lot of pine gum. Read geology, studied phonics [shorthand]. Just as we got through dinner the Prof., Jones and Steward came in from their climb. Said we would start out right off, so we packed the boats and started out, running 3 rapids and then came to a bad rapid and kicking portage. 'Tis the same rapid that the Maj.'s boat was swamped before and $800 worth of watches and $300 worth of arms were spoiled, so Jack Sumner says in his diary.8* Ran another rapid and landed at the head of another kicking portage. Let Beaman and I out to take some views of Nine Mile Creek" and of Log Cabin Cliffs, the highest vertical cliff we have yet seen, height about 2800. While taking pictures the rest of the boys let down the boats. While they were letting down the "Canonita" we took a view of them in the middle of the rapid. Coated plates, 6 c for B. The fall to the rapid 5 or 6 feet. The Prof, joined us as we were through and we all climbed the low foothills back of us. Had a fine view up the valley of Nine Mile Creek and of the different peaks. We concluded to leave the boxes on the bank of the creek and come up in the morning and take views. Drank some of its waters but found it strongly impregnated with alkali, though clear and cold. We went below the rapid and found the boys had gone into camp and supper nearly ready. Spread our blankets on the sand. Have made 3% miles. Played chess with Bish by camp-fire. Aug. 18th. After breakfast Beaman and Jack and myself went back to Nine Mile Creek. Shouldered the boxes and gallantly marched up the mountain. Took a couple of views, one looking up the creek's valley and one looking down the river. Came down, repacked the boxes, fixed the negatives, and went back to camp. Packed the boats and started out at 10:30, running 5 rapids and making 2 kicking portages. The last one we landed above the rapid; left Andy and [the] cooking things to prepare dinner for us while we let down the boat below it and then walked back to dinner. Started out at 2:15 and ran % of a mile and came to the worst and longest rapid yet in this canon. Let down each boat at a time, hanging, kicking, pulling and pushing them off the rocks, 6 c , and when the water was beyond our depth, hanging on to the sides of the boat till we could again reach bottom. We ran 3 more rapids, one a dangerous one full of **See Sumner's journal entry for July 11. 1869, in this Quarterly, vol. XV, p. 114. His "Statement," supplied many years later to Robert Brewster Stanton (Colorado River Controversies, New York, 1932, pp. 167-213), asserts tiiat this accident was die beginning of trouble which culminated when die Howlands and Dunn left the 1869 party at Separation Rapids and were killed by Indians. This canyon contains many Indian ruins and miles of petroglyphs. Origin of the name is unknown. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 301 rocks, a good deal like Hell's Half Mile. The "Nell" ran on a rock and hung while the other boats passed her in safety. She was soon pushed off and went on her way rejoicing. We landed on left-hand bank for the night at the head of a rapid at 5:20. Have run 9 rapids, and 4% miles. Made our beds on the sand and dried ourselves by Andy's fire. Bish and I gathered a lot of wood to play chess by after supper. I have been writing my diary up for today just before supper. I would like to be at home tonight. Aug. 19th. Last evening the air was filled with smoke, a regular fog like from the burning of some pine forest near at hand back of the cliffs, and this morning the air is very hazy and smoky. Broke up camp at 7:30 and commenced our day's work by running a couple of rapids to begin with and so on till we ran it up to 7, making 3 kicking portages, Andy and myself guiding the boat through the rapids while Beaman held on to the rope. W e landed on the right-hand side of the river at 11:05 for dinner on the rocks under some cedar trees and at the head of another kicking portage. Have made 5 miles. The walls are broken and are growing craggy and "peaky." Put my satchel in an empty rubber sugar sack to keep it from getting wet. After dinner we dropped the "Canonita" down over a swift dangerous fall in safety. Beaman and I then got the photographing things in order to take a view of the other boats as they were let down through the rapid by the rest of the party. We got 3 fine views of them. The falls has a fall of 8 or 10 feet, full of large rocks and a current of 35 or 40 miles an hour. While packing up, 6c, the other boats dropped down '/i mile around the curve. We soon followed, running the latter part of the rapid in the tail of waves. The banks fairly shot by. As we found the other boats moored to the shore Steward said there was a natural bridge to be seen by going back a little way. So Prof., Bish, Fred, Beaman and myself started out and soon came in sight of it across the river on the top of the ridge 1500 feet above the river; has a span of about 150 feet and about 200 feet high, with pine trees growing around and under it. 'Twas a fine sight. Concluded to take a picture of a pretty little lateral canon coming in from the same side of the river we were on. Found several wickiups showing that the Indians were here not long ago. Went back to the boats, then decided that the other 2 boats should drop down % of a mile and camp for the night while Andy went with them to get supper and Fred to take his place in the "Canonita." We then carried the boxes back to the little caiion, put them up, found I had forgotten the thumb screws at the falls above. Took a view of the canon. Concluded to leave the boxes there and take a view of the bridge by the morning's light. Started back to the boat, they set me across; 302 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY I walked back to the falls, found the screws and walked back to camp. Found it as usual on a sand bank with the usual quantity of ants. Steward[s] moccasins being too small for him he gave them to me. They are a "trifle" too big for me but can wear them, my old ones being ripped. Soaked them in the river for the night to mend in the morning. Spread my blankets and cleaned my gun. Built a big fire and played chess with Capt. Aug. 20th. After breakfast Beaman and I went across the river to take a view of the bridge. When we got back found that the rest of the party had gone down % of a mile to camp for the day under a grove of cottonwoods on a sand bank. Soon the Prof, and Jones came back and helped Beaman and I to make a kicking portage down 3 rapids in succession below which is camp. Ripped off the tops of my moccasins. Jack has kindly offered to sew them for me. Reread my letters. Had beans and vinegar for dinner after which have written my diary. Read a poem of "Nothing to Wear." At about 3:00 p.m. Prof., Steward and myself started out to climb a mountain to see where we are, the old map being wrong. We hardly know where we are. Took Steward's six-gun in case we should see any sheep. We climbed half way up, then left it among the rocks, it being too much of a burden to carry it any farther. We reached the top in about an hour and % after a hard climb of 1500 feet. We had a fine view of the country or canon rather, and about 2 miles of river. We counted 8 rapids in succession and 3 or 4 portages. We could plainly see that we are almost out of the Canon of Desolation by the walls which were broken into buttes, ridges, and were growing lower. Some of the buttes represented the ruins of castles, churches, and all imaginable things, while the ridges are sharp, craggy and broken into peaks, portholes, windows, caves, doors and bridges. South of us were lower [elevations] while north of us [were] lofty peaks and canon walls, the first 500 or 600 feet high, the latter 3000 feet; the lower part of this caiion is anything but desolate, red, white, gray and purple sandstone interlined with green shale and covered with green pine and cedar trees with here and there a litde rill along whose bank the cottonwood is seen, plenty of sheep (but as they are "wormy" of course we would not kill them). Now and then we hear the familiar "caw, caw, caw," and to cap all, plenty of cheering rapids and invigorating kicking portages to make, 6 c , 6 c , 6c. We started down at 6:00; reached camp in time for a good supper. Last night Steward killed a rattlesnake. Have made % of a mile, run 3 rapids, making 3 portages. Made some lemonade of the lime juice after dark. Bish and I built a fire and we read around it till 9:00 observation. The Capt. explained the JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 303 movement of the moon to me. We covered up our fire and then went off the [to] dreamland. Aug. 21st. Broke up camp at 7:30. In running the first rapid the "Dean" and "Nell" made a portage as directed to by the Prof., but Beaman, thinking he could run it, did so in safety, but barely escaped running into the "Nell" and smashing her or running against rocks everywhere in the channel, which if she had struck in that current (25 or 30 miles an hour) would have strung her all along the caiion. 'Tis the second time he has disobeyed orders and the Prof, "went for that heathen Chinee" in a way that I admired, as did all the rest. Beaman is disliked by all. We landed at 11:00, Beaman and I to take a picture while the rest let down the boats below a rapid just below us. When Beaman and I reached camp found dinner ready and we pitched in; landed on the left bank of the river as usual, on a sand bank. Have run 9 rapids, making 7 portages. After dinner I set up the things again while Beaman took a view looking across the river. In the meantime the "Emma" and "Nell" went across the river at the head of another rapid and landed. As soon as we had packed up we followed, landed, set up the things again, while Beaman took a couple of fine views looking across the river, and by the time we had packed up it was 3:00 p.m. We ran A more rapids, making one portage, making 13 rapids and making 8 portages. We landed on one side of the river but the majority concluded that the sand bank on the other side was the most proper place to camp, on which we did after dragging the boats over a bar. The Prof, is very unfortunate in his selection of camping places. Have run 5% miles. Plenty of ants here getting into our grub. Bish has concluded only to play 2 nights in a week at chess. Am a little too much for him, giving him odds of a queen. We being wet, changed our clothing and dried ourselves by the fire. Steward read me his diary, 27th of June. We had a shower in the middle of the day, did not amount to much however; we spread our blankets on the sand under a cottonwood tree and being tired were soon in the "land of nod." Aug. 22nd. Broke up camp at 8:00. Bish is always the last one ready, and commenced the day's work by running as pretty a rapid as we have run yet. 'Tis about % a mile long, in the form of a half circle, current about 20 miles an hour, some waves and a few rocks. The banks just whizz by us. Then came to the head of a bad rapid, letting down one boat at a time, 4 holding the boat, and 4 holding the rope. Came very near getting my leg broken by getting it between the rocks and the boat; as it was it was bruised somewhat. Have been in the same fix 2 or 3 times lately. Will be more careful. The current is so swift in these rapids that it rapidly reduces our breeches to 304 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY shreds and frequently takes us off our feet and can only regain our foothold by coming in contact with a projecting rock. When the water is beyond our depth we cling to the sides of the boat and away we go up and down in the waves, jerking over the fellows holding on to the rope like so many ten pins. Two or 3 have been hurt by falling on the rocks. We landed for dinner on left-hand bank, just below the rapid. We passed the old camp-fire of the previous party this forenoon. I took a picture of Castle Rock, isolated and alone. At 3:00 we started out again. First the "Nell" that ran a dangerous rapid all O. K., then the "Emma," which did not run it all O.K. but came near going to pieces on a rock. We had just started to run it but was [were] signaled to land in a very energetic manner by Prof, and Bish and we knew that something had happened. Beaman and I ran down to see what [it] was, but before we got there it was all O.K.; the "Emma" had run on a rock bow on and had swung across the channel. If we had got fairly started would have stove her to pieces. She was finally hauled off by those on shore. Found she had shipped considerable water. The waves were 3 or 4 feet high and going 25 or 35 miles an hour. The "Emma" ought to have kept to the left of the waves but instead went right over them. She seemed to jump through them and up and down in a terrible way. Jones was just about frightened out of his wits and lost all command of his boat. If she had not run onto a sand bar and almost have stopped her she would have been dashed to pieces on the rocks just below the bar. We ran through the waves quartering, shipping little water and just graising [sic] 2 or 3 rocks, and came out into smooth water. All the rest of the fellows were gathered on shore to see whether we would run it in safety. On further, just as we were emerging from the Caiion of Desolation proper, we saw a horse which we thought was hobbled at first, and landed in expectation of meeting Indians, but not seeing any Prof., Steward, and Jones followed the horse and found he had a leg broken and came to the conclusion that he had been left by a band of Indians, as by his tracks we could tell that he had been here about a month. Bish and I tried our skill in skipping stones down to the falls below. Soon we started out again, running the rapid. Landed on a rock beach while Prof., Jones and Bish went down farther to explore. We commenced taking the things out of the boats for the night. Steward had gathered some fossils in the afternoon and suggested that it would please Dr. Paul if I would collect specimens now and then; the idea being a good one, will collect whenever I can. Just as [we] were fairly unloaded, Prof, came back and said we would drop down about % mile to a better camping ground, so throwing the things in the boat again we dropped down and again unloaded and carried the things back aways to a few JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 305 cottonwoods and made our bed and prepared supper. Beaman and I cut some willows for our bed while Prof, and Steward climbed bluffs just back of us to examine the rim. They are having quite a time with the old map. Prof, says it is wrong, and Steward claims he can see a resemblance between it and the river, 6c After supper Bish and I built a fire on the rocks and played chess. Prof, always comes down to where we are to watch us. This afternoon we ran out of the canon proper and came into I do not know what, about the same as the commencement of the caiion.-low, gray-white bluffs with only here and there a hardy sage bush and now and then an isolated peak or butte resembling something or other. Have discovered another natural bridge larger than the other, while here and there there will be some lone rock standing like an egg on end. There are 2 of them on a butte that the boys have called "Columbus' Eggs," 6 c Have run 11 rapids, making 4 portages, running 5% miles. Have landed at the head of the worst and longest rapid yet in this canon. Aug. 23rd. We have concluded to stay here till noon at least today. After breakfast Prof., Beaman and Steward went back to climb some buttes, Beaman to see what pictures to take, 6c, while I got the machinery ready. He soon came back and said he would not take any till after dinner. Have been sitting under a tree writing my diary for the last 2 days, with Bish near platting his map, Andy cooking beans for dinner and Beaman writing his journal. All at once Beaman said, "Clem, I wish you would take a picture of that butte for me." I said, "Karect," and immediately set up the boxes and took a couple of views. I fail in flowing the developer over smoothly, but do well in the other processes, Beaman says. I told the Capt. today, if anything should happen to me on this trip to send my diary and principal effects to Morris. Had a good dinner-beans and apple sauce. The Prof, and Jones came in at about 1:00. We at once packed our boats, shouldered the boxes and climbed a steep hill. Went back a little way to take some pictures of the country while the rest of the party let down the boats over the rapid below camp. We had nicely got to going when there suddenly came up a shower and a strong wind. We had to take them down and wait till the shower had passed over. Now a shower in this country only means a sprinkle and is over with in 10 or 15 minutes. The wind is the worst. I enjoyed a grand sight in seeing the wind and rain clouds come sweeping over the peaks, walls, and down the gulches and chasms of the canon. Beaman climbed down to see how the party were getting through. We soon had our things up again and a couple of fine views taken. Prof, came up just as we were through. By the time we reached the boats 'twas 4:00. The boys had found a salt 306 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY spring among the rocks. In running the second, the "Dean" went across to the right-hand bank to run it but was sucked in onto a tree that hung over the water and broke Fred's oarlock clean off, but ran the rapid without further trouble. We landed on left-hand bank for the night at about 6:00. Have run 5 rapids, making one portage and have run 3 miles. We have again entered Desolation. Everything now is looking bare, lonely and dreary. 'Tis the beginning of Coal [Gray] Canon, but the latter end of the Caiion of Desolation, but for a mile and a half between the canons are low hills or bluffs and an entire change geologically, there being coal in the latter caiion, hence the name. Desolation is 65 miles long and in high water would have been a bad caiion to run. Tonight while Jack was cutting willows he gathered an armful of willows to cut; put his hand within 8 or 10 inches of a mountain rattlesnake coiled on the rocks. He quickly drew it back, called to Steward, who came up and shot him with a pistol. He had 9 rattles on him. Rather a narrow escape for Jack. We cut some willows for our bed, spread our blankets, had supper, after which I went down to the boats moored so peacefully to the bank in the moonlight, and lay down on the main hatch and thought of friends and home so far away. Bish soon joined me and we had a pleasant chat. I like the Capt., he is refined, cultured and intelligent. He is disgusted with some of the members of the party and I don't blame him, for I am myself, especially Jones and Beaman. They are low, illbred fellows. Fred is a good fellow and of good principles but is very egotistical and obstinate and [there is] a lack of sympathy between us. I will be glad when the trip is through with. Aug. 24th. Broke up camp at 7:30 and finally entered Coal Canon, the walls growing higher and more vertical, and are seamed with coal. Made one bad portage in the forenoon, and of course Andy and myself guiding the "Canonita" through the rapid, wading in the water at all depths and went beyond our depth, hanging on the boat with our legs dangling and thumping over the projecting rocks. The walls are bare and destitute of every living thing excepting sheep perhaps, and are very dirty in appearance and are composed of sandstone with cappings of limestone. We camped for dinner at 12:15 on the right-hand bank under some cottonwoods on the rocks. Have run 7 rapids, making one portage and have made 6% miles. While Andy was preparing dinner I read Emerson's "Essays on Bonaparte." Liked it. After dinner started out at 2:10 and ran some very pretty rapids and some bad ones. We made a portage at a regular "knocker," the same rapids that Jack Sumner says in his diary [on July 12, 1869] that they let down the boats by line, one man holding on to the last boat and letting it down and then swimming JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 307 after it, for there is no place to make a land portage for the walls are vertical. The water being low with us helped us considerably. We of course made a kicking portage, fully % a mile long in the form of a crescent. It has a considerable fall to it. We floated down between vertical walls with a little beach at their base, covered with weeds, and 'tis rather romantic and picturesque. A few shots were fired at some otter and beaver we saw swimming the river, but with the usual luck. I keep my gun under the hatch during these rapid running days. We landed at 6:00 for the night on the right-hand bank on a sand bank as usual but where the willows are abundant. Read Emerson by the camp-fire. Had a pleasant chat about him and different things with the Prof, till 9:00 came. Helped the Capt. with observation. Have run during the day 15 rapids without counting the smaller ones, or riffles, as we call them. Made 12% miles, making 3 bad portages and are camped at the head of a rapid. Aug. 25th. After breakfast this morning cleaned out to [the] boat, or at least my part of it-the only part I take care of, while Prof., Bishop, Steward and Jones climbed out for geological and topographical work. After I had taken care of the bedding Fred and I had a climb on our own hook. There is a lateral caiion that comes back of camp; in the springtime there is 10 or 12 feet of melted snow-water in it that comes down from the mountains above. We went up its bed 300 feet and then came to its top. The walls on the sides are 150 to 200 feet high and vertical. The path wound round and something new and picturesque met us at every turn. As we approached the top the step became steeper and longer and we had to do some climbing. It would make a beautiful place for a Sunday afternoon walk in Illinois, it being wild, romantic and twisting. It is also a good illustration of the cutting away of the rock by water, the cutting away of the softer rock and leaving the hard. On reaching the top we saw Steward away up on the mountain. We crossed the ridge in hopes of reaching camp by going down another caiion that came down to the river. We found a kind of a little cave, and sat and talked of different things, Fred sketching what the boys have called the "Devil's Turnip Patch." On going down the canon we got within about 100 feet of the river when we found we could go down no farther, the canon ending in an amphatheatre [sic], the walls being vertical. So we recrossed the cliff and went back to the other caiion. Fred found he had lost his pencil case and went back to find it while I sat on the rock admiring the scenery waiting for him. All at once I heard and saw a huge rock come rolling down the mountain side and on looking up saw Steward coming down. He soon joined me; said he had got separated from the rest and was now going down to pack the "Nell," and so went on down. Fred came 308 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY up with his pencil case and we were soon at camp. It was 10% and we concluded to get dinner. At 11:00 the Prof, and rest came in, I in the meanwhile writing my diary. The Prof, said he had found the valley of the White," it was only 4 or 5 miles away. We started out at 12 M. We found that the walls were fast crumbling away; in some places only a lone rock just ready to fall into the river is only standing, and now and then an entire wall is just tottering. In a few years the channel of the river will be changed and it will have more and dangerous rapids. At 3:15 we found the mouth of the White but no water in it. Have run 10 rapids, making 2 portages and made 5% miles. We will camp here for the night and in the morning [go on] to Gunnison's Crossing and hope to meet the Maj. there. The Prof, and Jones took a walk up White River to see if they could find water. They came in in an hour or so, found water % mile up. Cut willows and made our beds on the bank of the White. We are camped at the head of a shallow rapid. Andy is cooking on the bank of the Green, Bish and Steward disputing as usual, and the Prof, laughing at both, while I am writing up my diary for today. After supper read "Swedenborg," by Emerson, by the blaze of a camp-fire on the wet sand of the Green, which Bish and I built while waiting for observation at 9:00 p.m. Aug. 26th. Started out at 7:20, running rapid after rapid; with the exception of 2 or 3 they were ugly ones. In coming through one Beaman unshipped his oar and we ran broadside to a huge wave that came dashing over a rock, causing us to tip somewhat and after landing, to bail out. The "Nell" ran through the heaviest part of the waves, at one time completely covered with a sheet of water, shipping a wave and half filling their boat. At about 12 M we came to an isolated butte rising monumentlike- a tall column 1500 feet in air that marks the mouth of Coal Canon, and just this side of it we camp and will wait for the Maj. till the 4th of September. If he comes not in that time will start for the Dirty Devil with about 35 days' rations. Have run 11 rapids, making one portage over a long shallow one, and have run about 8% miles. Below us is the Old Spanish Trail*1 and also where Gunnison crossed and was afterwards killed by the Indians at a lake near here that bears his name. 'Tis a favorite crossing of all the Indians near here and also the crossing of the Navajos on their raids in stealing horses from the Mormons. The trail is % mile broad at the river and the remains of at least 1000 "Sometimes called "Little White" or "White Eartii River," now Price River. This crossing, five miles below camp, was used by Captain J. W. Gunnison while on an exploring expedition in 1853. Gunnison, together widi six of his men, was massacred by Indians on die Sevier River (southwest of Delta, Utah), shortly afterward. This variant of die original Spanish Trail tiirough Utah seems to have been pioneered by William Wolfskill in 1830-31. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 309 wickiups lay scattered around. There have been Indians around here within the last month or 6 weeks. On our way down here saw and shot at a couple of sheep that we saw across the river but they soon disappeared up a small valley between the buttes. Also the Capt. shot a beaver and killed him, but dead beavers always sink and so did not get him. We unloaded the boats on the bank, for we intend to get them in good order for the work diey will have to do between here and the Dirty Devil. Hauled and turned them upside down and will let them dry out till Monday morning and then will go to work at them. While we were unloading the "Canonita" and in consequence of Andy leaving the coffee sack untied, I planted a small plantation of coffee, and die next voyagers that come down the river will be surprised to find the coffee plant growing wild on a sand bank at the mouth of Coal Canon. Our camp is on a huge sand bank and under a few scattered cottonwoods. Under a huge one Andy has his kitchen, for driftwood is plenty around there-while we are scattered around under different trees, Steward, Bish, and myself together. Now that our rapids are run have changed my clothes, putting on a pair of white breeches and the Maj.'s shoes that he kindly sent down to me at Uintah. They are almost new and a splendid pair, really stylish; cost $12.00. After supper made our beds on the sand, helped the Capt. cut some willows, talked of home, 6 c In the evening had quite a conversation about the conduct of the war. Aug. 27th. Another Sunday morning has come, one more milestone nearer home. Most a lovely day, just like Indian summer, with a cool breeze coming up the river. After breakfast Prof, and Steward took a walk down the river; on coming back said he would call this "Gunnison's Camp." Capt. built a cozy wickiup and invited me to partake of its hospitalities, which of course I did. We found 3 Indian "mills" for grinding corn near it; brought one of them inside for a seat. Wrote part of a letter to Cousin Lou. Bish cut my hair and trimmed my whiskers in a gay style. I soaked my moccasins last night and Jack mended them for me this morning. Read Longfellow in the afternoon, read most of the time and wrote my diary up to this morning. Fred and Jack went down the river for about a mile and % and put up the flag at the head of an island for the Maj. We are anxiously waiting to hear his signal shots. We have named the butte at the mouth of the cafion "Cathedral Butte." The length of Coal Canon is 28% miles. Have run about 120 or 125 rapids and made 35 or 40 portages I should judge, in both Desolation and Coal canons. Prof., Bish and Steward spent the evening in the wickiup talking over our plans for the future. Went to bed at 9%. 310 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY Aug. 28th. After dinner we went to work at the boats. Found that the "Canonita" had one of her boards sprung off during the night; rather bad as it had also broken 2 or 3 ribs, but Beaman and I went to work and fixed her up the best we could. We took a picture of them and of the boys as they were working at them on the sand beach. I varnish the negatives, a rather particular job. After dinner we built a small fire and cooked our pine pitch and pitched the boats with it. If anyone thinks it is fun to sit over a fire on a sand bank with the thermometer 97 in the shade, just let him try it, that's all. We stopped up the principal cracks and holes but did not have quite enough of the gum; however our boat is in better condition and stronger than she has been in many a day. We have put in 5 or 6 false ribs to strengthen her; she is the prettiest and best modeled boat of the 3 but the worst built. She rides the waves like a duck and will hold 300 lbs. more than the other boats, though having a smaller main cabin. I burnt out the frying pan and cup we used for boiling the pitch and got them cleaner than they have been since they were new. Andy is not very clean about his cooking and the dishes are only half cleaned. Beaman and Fred tried their "sausages" [life preservers] in the river; they work to a charm. I read and studied geology till supper time. After supper Jack caught 3 large fish, the largest weighing about 20 lbs." We judged it will make us a good breakfast in the morning. After dark Bish and I built a fire in a little hollow in the sand for the purpose of making charcoal for filling barometrical tubes. We sat and talked and wrote our diaries around it till observation time, after which we amused ourselves by looking at the moon and the surrounding bluffs through the field glass. It is just about the same as a night glass. I never saw the moon so plainly before; could see the mountains and valleys on it, 6 c Not feeling sleepy we chatted together till 10% o'clock and then retired to our blankets. Aug. 29th. Beaman and I built a wickiup between Capt.'s and Jones's, Beaman fixing his chemicals and I doing all I could to help him, the forenoon passing away rather wearily. After dinner we lingered around the kitchen talking about the Maj. and wishing he were here, when suddenly we heard our signal shots a mile or so down the river. We at once answered them and Fred and I started down to meet the Maj. We crossed over to an island and went down to the other end where the flag was, and across the river we saw the Maj. and Fred Hamblin, as we afterwards learned. We did not know the Maj. at first till he spoke to us, asking us where camp was. We told him and they started over the low hills till opposite camp. About 10 These fish, often weighing up to 30 pounds, were "Colorado River salmon," locally called whitefish, a giant relative of die minnow. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 311 minutes before we rowed the "Nell" and "Emma" over to meet the Maj. in person, the Maj. called to us asking us the way to come down the steep bluff. Jones and the Prof, commenced yelling up to him, one saying one thing and the other something else; Prof, with accent bland told Jones to "keep his damned head shut till he (Prof.) got through." Jones wilted. The Maj. was soon in camp among us once more and everyone rejoiced, the Maj. to know we were all safe and sound, and we to see the Maj. He introduced Mr. Hamblin to us; he is the brother to Jacob Hamblin in charge of pack train. The Maj. told us that he had given up the idea of finding his way in to the Dirty Devil and had bought a few rations at Manti; hired Fred and Lyman (his nephew) Hamblin to bring them in to us; Lyman he had left at camp 4 miles farther down; that he had sent word to Jacob Hamblin not to meet him at the Dirty Devil but to meet him at the Crossing of the Fathers, 40 miles above the mouth of the Pahria [Paria], the end of our journey this year, and that he had left Salt Lake just a week ago and had brought us all of our letters and a few papers, the rest to be sent to Kanab. Told us to pack up and we would drop down to his camp. It did not take us long to pack our boats, you bet; they were soon cleaned out and loaded and in readiness to start, but we had to wait a little while for the Prof., who was taking an observation. We started out at 4% and ran the 5 rapids gaily (except the "Nell" ran aground at the first one; its crew had to drag it over the rocks a short distance) and without stopping to look at them. As soon as we were at camp tied our boats and "went for" our letters. I found 5 for me, 3 from Belle, 1 from Morris, 1 from Fred Dudl[e]y, all good first-rate letters, but was disappointed at not receiving more from home. We read and reread our letters till supper time. The Maj. told us that he had had a hard ride since he left us almost 2 months before. Said he had only left the snowbanks up in the mountains a few days since. After supper we made our beds and then went to writing letters to our friends around a camp-fire we built for the occasion. Bish and I were the last ones to go to bed, which we did at 12% M. Bish burnt a hole through his coat, which made it "warm" for him. The pack train consists of 2 mules and 2 horses and 3 riding animals, the Maj. owning 2. Aug. 30th. Rose very early to finish my letters and have been writing nearly all day, reading over my letters and papers. Beaman and I made a shade, or wickiup, while Capt. made a large one, Beaman fixing his chemicals and I helping him. We all like the Hamblins, they are jolly fellows. I have learned how to make cigarettes. They are very nice to smoke. The Maj. has brought in a lot of kinnikinick he picked on the mountains. Our camp is on the right-hand side among some cottonwoods and is grassy. 312 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY The Maj. brought in 300 lbs. flour, a little sugar and some jerked beef, some overalls and a pair of shoes for each man in the party, an article we were sadly in need of. In the evening built a fire and Bish and I wrote around it till about 12 M. The moon shone almost bright enough to see by. Aug. 31st. Rose very early. I do not feel well. The Maj. and Prof, rode out on the hills back of us. When they came in the Maj. said he wanted some pictures taken, so we packed up and Beaman, Maj., Jack and I climbed the bluff and walked over a level plateau for a mile and %. The Maj. told us he wanted a picture of a high butte that he calls "Gunnison's" (in honor of the explorer who was here in 1854 [1853] in charge of a government expedition) and then went back to camp while we took the pictures, I coating plates, 6 c Jack found a Mexican bit. When we got back it was past dinner time, but found some left for us. After dinner I asked the Maj. if I was going with him to the Aztec's [Hopis] this winter. He told me he wanted me to take pictures for the party under the Prof.'s control while Beaman would for his party. He told me he had sent for new instruments to N.Y. and they would be at Kanab for me. Said I took good pictures; it would be money in my pocket, that he would give me an interest in them, 6 c I was very glad of the idea and thanked him. I know I will succeed for I can take a fair negative now. I will be cut loose from Beaman and will be no one's assistant but will become useful to the party. I don't like B.-he is coarse, low and ignorant. Bish offered to do all he could to assist me this winter. I started out an assistant and will return one of the head ones of the party. I have a bright future before me. Fred and I told Lyman to get us a lot of Indian curiosities, % dozen pairs each of moccasins and a pair of leggings. He said he would do the best he could and would have them for us at Kanab where he lives, this winter. I told him particularly to get a bow, quiver and arrows of the Indians. I want them for Frank. In the afternoon the Maj., Beaman, Hamblin, Jack and I went up the river to take some pictures. We followed the Indian trail for a couple of miles and came to the place the Maj. wanted us to take, and then he went back. Hamblin told us about Kanab, the Indians, 6 c , 6c. We rolled some huge rocks down off the bluff into the river. We took 3 pictures. By the time we got back it was supper time, after which we had some Indian songs from the Maj. and the Hamblins; they are good singers. Had a very pleasant time till 8% when Bish, Fred and I built a fire down near the river on the rocks and commenced writing. I finished writing to Morris, Belle, and Fred Dudley. Every night we see the moon coming slowly up over the bluffs to the east; 'tis rather picturesque. We sat up till 2:30 a.m. writing and talking, then retired. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 313 Sept. 1st, [1871]. Rose at 6:00. Wrote a little more in Morris' letter and enclosed 3 views in Belle's, and 2 to Cousin Lou. Sent Belle's letters and views to Morris, for Belle may be in Naperville by the time it gets there. I wrote an order to Anthony, N.Y., for chemicals, 6 c , to meet us at Kanab and a letter to Harper's for Beaman, giving a short account of our trip from Lodore to here, and sent views. After dinner we all prepared to leave the Hamblin boys packing the mules with fossils, negatives, maps, records, 6 c of the expedition, and we loading our boats. Bish and Steward went out to measure Gunnison's Butte. We bade the pack train good-bye and the"'Emma" and "Canonita" dropped down a mile and camped for the night, the "Nell" staying behind for Bish and Steward. It came in about % hour. Found we had left our saw back at the camp we were at while waiting for the Maj. The Maj. sent Fred and Beaman back after it, much to the latter's disgust, it being 5 or 6 miles away. I reread letters and papers, cut willows and made up our bed. After supper Fred and Beaman came in. The Maj. read Whittier till 9 o'clock, then we all turned in. Sept. 2nd. Started out this morning at 7:15, the "Emma" first, the "Nell" dropping back to her old posish. Soon we lashed the 3 boats together and floated down while the Maj. read to us from Whittier, but the river being so shallow we separated. We are passing through Castle Valley, so called from the curious formation of the buttes in the distance." The Indians call it "Sau-auger-towip" or stone house lands. The banks of the river are 8 or 10 feet high, while above is a level, desolate plateau with foothills and bluffs in the background. At 11:30 we landed on the right side for dinner under a pretty grove of cottonwoods, a little grass and plenty of shade. I gave Jones a piece of my mind this morning and he is very civil. We started at 7:00 and soon came to the place where Gunnison crossed and is now a favorite Indian crossing. We saw that Indians had been there lately. We found part of a gun barrel that they had cut off, a fine comb of their own manufacture, and lodge poles still standing, moccasin footprints of all sizes on the ground, 6c Whole bands stay here during the winter and pile up stones in the shape of miniature forts for protection from the wind. We saw several of them. Bish took his observation here, the pole and fort were up on a bluff. Soon we started on down. Shortly we came to some carbonate of lime formed by hot springs. We stopped and got a few specimens. We camped for the night on "Powell's party applied die name "Castle Valley" to the country generally lying back from die west bank of the river. In present usage diis name is applied to the depression farther west, between the San Rafael Swell and die Wasatch Plateau, which today comprises die principal settled area of Emery County. 314 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY left-hand bank as usual under some cottonwoods, but we have some grass to lay on. We cut willows and made our beds. After supper built a fire and the Maj. read to us. Sept. 3rd. Did not get up until 6:30. After breakfast Maj. said, "We will stop over for the day." He and Jones [are] going over the river to examine some bluffs 5 or 6 miles away. Will be gone all day. Took a couple of canteens of coffee and some biscuits, while Steward and I went across the river to examine the bluffs along the shore. We both found fossils, mostly shark's teeth, showing that this part of the country was covered with salt water and showing that said fossils were deposited in the Mesozoic time or age. I am becoming quite geological; in fact know more about the world's formations than I ever dreamed of before. I am going to collect fossils for Dr. Paul. Those that I found this morning are valuable, Steward says. We came in at dinner time, after which Steward and Bish went out to be gone all afternoon, while I am here wearily writing up my diary since last Monday. If it was not for Morris' sake and for my own pleasure hereafter, would not be near so minute in writing, for it is a task instead of a joy. I took 2 o'clock observation for Bish. Beaman is making him a shirt out of buckskin. Supper about ready. I am going to read, so good-bye old diary. About 7:00 the Maj. and Jones came in; Fred and I went across after them. Jones is just about "played"; both are very tired. A few minutes afterwards Bish and Steward came in with a lot of specimens they had found in a cave some 4 miles back of camp. They are of a beautiful crystallization of pearly whiteness. Took 9 o'clock observation for Capt. Sat, talked and smoked cigarettes around the camp-fire till 9:00. Sept. 4th. I forgot to say that we made 17 miles on Saturday. We have heard shots up the valley yesterday and this morning; I suppose Indians are at the crossing. We started out this morning at 8:30 o'clock, was [were] delayed by the Capt. platting his map. The banks at first were heavily fringed with willows with here and there a clump of cottonwoods, but it gradually ceased and low rocky hills and bluffs began to show themselves. Curious rocks and shales abound and are seen in all shapes and forms. Maj. and Jones shot at some white swans, their wings tipped with black-perfect beauties. The river is very shallow, and several times found ourselves aground and were forced to jump out of the boats and drag them into deeper water. The "Dean" was far the most unfortunate. About 3 miles below camp the "Nell" stopped to let Steward examine some rocks while the other boats went on. We ran a few rapids, but as they do not amount to much now keep no account of them. We landed at 12 for dinner under a cliff 75 or 100 feet high and among the rocks on a sloping talus only a few feet wide, but the place affords a JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 315 shade and plenty of driftwood, all that we require. Have run 9% miles. About 20 minutes after we landed, the "Nell" came sailing in. Jones is a used up "community" [commodity]; some are lying on the rocks, some helping Andy to cook and the rest in the boats writing or sleeping. I put up the barometer for the Capt.; he is helping Andy. Starting out at 2:15 we ran through the country abounding in low hills covered with sagebrush and sand; in fact the surface is nothing but sand. Now and then we pass by islands of various sizes, some bare and others covered with green grass, willows and trees. Have seen some scrub mountain oaks. The river shallow as usual; the "Canonita" stopped on a gravel bank to take a picture of a queer looking butte that the Maj. called "Dellenbaugh's Butte," while the other boats went on. After we were through we started out after them; caught up with them at Undine Springs. There are about 150 ice cold springs that come boiling up above the water's edge near a vertical cliff 150 feet high of red sandstone. The river water was quite warm around them, while they were ice cold but tasted sour. At 4:30 we came to the San Rafael River and camped just above it. We had to climb up a steep bank with our things when we found bushes, trees, sand, 6 c , and Andy went to cooking, while we made our beds. The Prof, gave me a towel; told us what the old doc at Uintah said about the Maj. being away at Salt Lake. He asked Prof, if he had any papooses, 6 c Helped Andy wash dishes, and afterwards have written my diary by the camp-fire. Have made 14 miles today. Will stay here tomorrow. Had a glorious sunset. Sept. 5th. After breakfast the Maj. and Jones started out for a 2 days' tramp up the San Rafael, while the rest of us went to work picking up pieces of flint arrowheads that are scattered around here within a small space. The Maj. said that this was the old workshop of the Indians, flint being found here. The Indians in crossing the river would camp here and make a supply of arrowheads. We found fragments and pieces of these heads but not a perfect one. Some of the chips are very beautiful, clear as crystal and mottled or spotted with red; others are clouded with all colors. I gathered about a quart. Steward and I crossed the San Rafael and climbed the opposite cliff and though we found the remains of several wickiups, found not a flint. We are camped in a pretty little grove of cottonwoods with plenty of grass, sand and leaves for a carpet. Took time for the Capt. in the fore and afternoon. After dinner copied the barometrical observations; it was behind over a month. Finished it by the camp-fire at 9:00. Sept. 6th. The Capt. and I were up by % after 5:00 and got breakfast ready by the time the rest were up. The Capt. and I filled the large canteen with coffee and 2 smaller ones with water. 316 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY The Capt. armed himself with a Colt's Navy, an aneroid, portfolio and 4 biscuits and some sugar; myself with the 3 aforesaid canteens, a Smith 6 Wesson six-shooter, cartridge box kindly loaned me by the Prof, for the occasion, and with Steward we rode across the river, Steward going one way to examine some cliffs a short distance away, while the Capt. and I made for a butte we thought was about 6 or 7 miles away, but to our sorrow we found before night was at least 15 miles. We started out feeling fresh and happy and chatting away pleasantly on different topics and walking at a brisk pace. The way at first led us over bare white sandstone that stretched for miles around us with here and there a little patch of earth or sand, rather. We were gradually ascending as we kept growing nearer the butte. It seemed farther off than ever, but still going on and up we were suddenly stopped by a deep gully with vertical walls of about 200 feet without a break and were compelled to go up along its brink for 2 miles, when we came to its head and passed around it, and right at its head we found a splendid water-pocket holding about 800 or 1000 barrels of water, clear and cold as crystal, where the sun never shines. Water is a precious article in this desolate waste. We knew if we got out of water where to come to get it. There were several isolated buttes to the left of us but we passed them one by one, but the butte we were striving to reach seemed farther and farther away. The morning which had been cloudy and cool was soon changed by the hot sun bursting through the clouds and heating the sandstone beneath us. We came to another and wider gully; down its sides we crawled, and found ourselves in a grove of scrub oaks, cottonwoods and willows. We had been saving up our water but in spite of our efforts one canteen was empty, but we hoped to find water in the gulch somewhere, and so followed the bed of a creek to its head, but found that it was dry, though water had been there a few days ago. We climbed up its wall and found it only the wall of another gully. We found some trouble in getting down but when we did get down, to our joy we found a deliciously cool cave with a stream of cold running water running through it. The cave was 100 feet long, 30 wide and 8 feet high in a crescent shape, the floor covered with beautiful changeable buff-colored sand. Bish said it should be called "Clement's Cave." We drank all the water we wanted, drank some coffee, and then filled the coffee canteen up full with the now warm water of the other canteen and then filled up the small canteens with pure cold water. We then washed ourselves, drank again, and feeling greatly refreshed we climbed up and out again and once more started for the butte, which was now growing much nearer. We crossed another gully and found ourselves walking at a swift pace over dark red sandstone, but when within about 2 miles of JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 317 the butte we were on the hard white sandstone again. The sun shone down hotly and we were faint and weary, but we saw the cool shadows of the butte, bent all of our energies to reach them and finally we climbed up into a delightful little nook between a couple of huge boulders of red sandstone where a cool breeze came blowing through. Being just about "played," we laid down on the ground for a short time, then ate a biscuit apiece and a little sugar, sweetened our coffee and drank some of that, and then stretched ourselves out again and fell into a snooze. Woke up at 2:00. We left the boat at 7:30 in the morning and reached the butte at just 1:00; the butte instead of being 6 or 7 miles away was fully 15 the way we came. Walked it in 5% hours. After resting we tried to get on top of the butte and commenced walking around it, which was 2J/£ miles more, but finding it "wormy" concluded not to get on top. Said worms consisted of vertical walls 500 feet high of dark red sandstone. It had a sloping talus of about 50 feet high. We completed the circuit and seeing that no mortal person could get on it unless he had wings, and there being another butte ahead the same height 2 miles farther on, we made for it, but at first it baffled us, but on going around it we found a sloping wall of smooth white sandstone on an angle of 45 degrees, and up it we went on hands and feet and soon had the satisfaction of knowing that we had triumphed. The Capt. set his compass and began taking topographical observations of the surrounding country while I noted them down on paper. It was very smoky and could not see very far. Could see Cathedral and Gunnison's buttes, the canons of the Grand River, the Sierra La Sal Mountains, 40 miles away, whose snow-covered peaks glistened in the now setting sun. Here and there a solitary butte or an isolated range of low cliffs met our view. We were standing on the point of land that lies between the Grand and Green rivers before making the junction and forming the Colorado. Our trip had been a hard one, a long dreary one, but the view that we saw from Lily Buttes amply repaid us for our hardships. So lonely, so gloomy, so grand. The first butte we called "Bishop's Butte" and the one we were on I named "Lily Butte" in honor of Sister Lily. It is in a half circle and has 3 peaks to it, or rather it is 3 buttes connected. 'Tis 500 feet high and only accessible on one side. It is composed of many colored sands and looks very pretty. We tried to get down by a nearer route but were baffled, and on going back we found a splendid pocket of water which we were badly in need of. Surely a kind Providence has lead us today. Drinking our fill and refilling our canteens, started out for camp at 5% p.m. We wanted to get across the gullies before dark and walk to camp after dark. We found a piece of broken crockery, showing that the Aztecs had lived here some time. We hurried on as fast as possible but in 318 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY spite of us the sun sank and darkness came on apace and we were a long way from the first gully. At last we sat down on a rock beneath the twinkling stars, ate our [one ?] biscuit apiece, all of our sugar and finished our coffee, which by this time was greatly reduced by our adding water. Feeling rested we went stumbling on over sagebrush and rocks, now up, now down, till finally we came to the gully, but being dangerous to descend at night we made a torch out of some dry cedar. After trying many ways, reached the bottom, found ourselves in a thicket of brush and a few cottonwoods. We were very careful not to set fire to them, but soon came to a lot of dry rushes and after putting out one or two fires we buried the torch. After struggling through a while longer we cut a few willows, drank up all of our water, placed our revolvers by our sides and laid our weary bodies down to catch what slumber we could. Sept. 7th. We passed the night at last. We kept waking up at all times; when one side was chilled through we would turn over on the other side and let it thaw out. 'Twas lucky that the night was warmer than usual. We got up at 4:30 feeling rather stiff and sore but found that we were about 10 miles from camp. The gully we were in was filled with scrub oak and cottonwoods. Climbing out again made for camp, walking over bare white rock and red sand. We got a supply of water at one of the pockets in one of the gullies. Went about 4 miles from camp and just as we were descending the last of the gullies we heard our 3 signal shots and knew that the boys were out hunting for us. Answered them with my revolver and soon we heard the Maj.'s voice: "How are you, boys?" and on looking up saw him and Jack on top of a gully. We soon joined them. They had been feeling quite uneasy about our not coming in last night; had kept up a big fire all night with someone sitting up waiting to hear our shots, and this morning had got up at 4:00 o'clock, had breakfast, and most all of them had started out in search of us with water, coffee and provisions. The Maj. said he was afraid we had got out of water and were wandering around about half crazy. The Prof, did not know but what the Indians had gobbled us, 6c The Maj. and Jack had a canteen of coffee and 2 of water, a little brandy, a whole loaf of bread and some meat. The Maj. signaled the rest that we were found, and they started back to camp and brought down the boats 2% miles down the river to meet us there, it only being 1 mile to the river from where we ate breakfast. Soon the Prof.'s boat came down and landed beneath the cliff we were standing on, the Maj. and I going down one way and Bish and Jack another. Before we got down it commenced raining, and so the Maj. and I took refuge under an overhanging cliff at the bottom of the gorge. We then made some cigarettes and just as we were smoking and feeling com- JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 319 fortable the wind suddenly veered, blowing the rain and water that was falling over the cliff under which we stood in onto us and drove us out, and being wet through, made for the river. The dry gulch of a few moments ago was now a cataract of water. Soon we came to the Prof., Bish and Steward, standing under the cliff facing the river. Steward luckily had some dry clothes in the boat and the Maj. and I soon had them on. As we all stood shivering, all at once from over the opposite cliff came several torrents of red mush pouring into the river, soon converting the clear river water into so dirty and filthy a stream as one ever saw. Soon others appeared up and down the river, while on this side the cliff over 200 feet high, nothing but bare white sandstone; the water came pouring in clear little streams, dozens of them, some coming down in one unbroken fall, others falling on some projecting ledge would be broken into showers of spray, then collecting, going down to the next and then to the river beneath." The stream coming from the gorge was increasing every minute, so Steward waded across it up to his knees and brought the boat to our side of it. The rain was about over with now and we concluded to build a fire and get dinner, so gathering a lot of driftwood soon had our coffee boiling. The bread was baked this morning, with plenty of meat with it, for Bish and myself, and so came into play at the present time. As we were eating the other boats came down; had been detained by the rain. After greeting us kindly they went to work and got their dinner, after which-loading the boats-we started down Labyrinth Caiion, which we are now in. The walls are very low, ranging from 50 to 500 feet high but vertical. In the afternoon we stopped % hour for Fred to finish some sketch and after that it again commenced raining and rubber coats and ponchos were all the rage. We went on, making 7% miles by 5:30. Landed for the night on the left side, cut our way through the willows that lined the banks, commenced pitching our tents in a half circle, cut a lot of willows and spread them-our blankets beneath them [sic], then built a rousing big fire in the center of the group. We then built another fire for Andy to get supper by, which was soon eaten up by hungry explorers. We had a storm in the mountains, the first rain that has amounted to anything since leaving Illinois. We are now campaigning in earnest. That night we lay snugly rolled up in our blankets and were lulled to sleep by the patter of the rain on the tents. Sept. 8th. On waking this morning feeling rather stiff and sore after our at least 30 mile walk, found everything dripping wet and looking gloomy and desolate. Going down to the river "Hundreds of these cascades, falling from die canyon's rim after a sudden shower, present a unique sight never to be forgotten by tiiose fortunate enough to have seen it. 320 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY to wash found the river dirtier than ever, and we are compelled to drink it. After breakfast we took a picture of an alcove across the river. When we were through the Maj. had climbed the bare rocks behind us and found some more views, so climbing with the boxes on our backs were soon at the top, finding pure water in the hollows on the rocks. The river makes a complete bend here, the picture showing the view on both sides. After taking a few more views came down in time for dinner, then afterwards went across the river and took several views of Trin Alcove. Spent all afternoon there, 'tis a beautiful place. Fred and myself had a pleasant time in walking around it but the pictures will describe it better than I can. Reached camp at 5:15. Having made preparations for leaving today, had packed up everything, but we soon had our blankets spread and instead of pitching our tent we spread it over us, and the consequence was that it rained dismally all night and streams of water came running down in among us, creating moisture. Sept. 9th. After breakfast we pulled up stakes and started out, the "Dean" going first and the other 2 waiting while Beaman finished his pictures. Of course it rained, but we made 7% miles before stopping for dinner where the "Emma" had landed, and built a fire on left-hand side against the wall of the canon. Bish read me his account of our tramp. The only difference between the water of Labyrinth Canon and that of a canal, is that that of a canal is a raging current, by the side of it. Pulling out after the 2 o'clock observation, continued our journey. At about 3:00 it commenced raining again. To complete our discomforts the Maj.'s boat ran aground in the center of a sand bar and soon the entire "Green and Colorado River Exp. Exp." were tugging and lugging the "Emma" into a deeper channel. Just as we got her off the sun came out and a rainbow spanned the canon walls. We formed rather a picturesque group wading on the sand bar with rubber coats and ponchos on. Just as we were starting again I broke my oar sharp off at the blade, but replacing it, was all hunky. We landed for the night at 6:00 on a sand bar on the right side of the river. Have made since morning 16 and % miles. Unpacking our boats we pitched our tents in a circle, built a fire between them, cut some willows, spread our blankets and got supper. Bish gave the party a blowing up for going for all the gravy before he got there. Spent a pleasant night around the camp-fire. Sept. 10th. Finding my gun a little rusty, cleaned it nicely, spread our blankets out to dry, also dug a well to get some water fit to drink. The river makes a bow-knot thusly [diagram], so while we have come 15 miles had in fact come about 3. A high ridge separates the river here and the Maj. wanted a view of the bend, so Beaman and I started up with boxes, water, 6 c In JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 321 going up a steep place I slipped and fell down about 20 feet with that infernal howitzer on my back. A bruised leg and torn breeches the only damage. On getting to the top, however, had a magnificent view of the river and the surrounding peaks and crags. I left Beaman up there to take his pictures while I came down to take the boat around to the other side of the ridge, about 6 miles around, and % across it. In cutting through the willows I had to crawl through a beaver's hole to get through them at that place and [came near] mortally scaring Jack to death, who happened to be sitting at the end of the hole; thought I was a grizzly. Packing the boat we started out, myself in command, and Andy rowing. We came through all right. Andy shot a beaver. We landed on left side. Steward, Fred and I went across, climbed the ridges, helped Beaman down with his boxes and had a hard time of it. After dinner Prof, and Jones climbed out back of camp; the Maj. and Steward went across to collect fossils, while Beaman and I fixed up the chemicals. Made some lemonade from citric acid. Bish and I measured the cliffs on both sides of the river, found that the walls are from 800 to 1000 feet high at this place. After supper the Maj. read to us from Whittier by the camp-fire, and then we all turned in. Sept. 11th. Started out at about 8:00, pulled steadily all forenoon, the caiion walls becoming more and more broken in solitary buttes, buttresses, peaks and towers. Some presenting very fine appearance, and varying from 600 to 1200 or 1500 feet high, are composed mostly of dark red sandstone. At 12 M. we landed on right bank for dinner, dug a well or two for clean water near the river's brink, in the sand. Beaman took a couple of views from here looking across the river." Started out at 2:15, rowing hard against a dead stream. At about 3:30 we came to a fine view of broken rocks, buttes, and windows opening between them and climbed a steep bluff and got a view of it. Just as we were taking it, up came a heavy shower, completely wetting us. Hurriedly packing up we started for the boats on the run and found that the "Nell" had gone on down to select a camp, taking Andy and leaving Steward. Putting on our ponchos we pulled out with a "In the mouth of Hell Roaring Canyon, near this camp, is an inscription by D. Julien, 1836, one of several along the river. He also left his name along die Uinta River, dated 1831. Denis Julien was a trapper and trader out of St. Louis several years before joining Antoine Robidoux in the Uinta Basin. His last inscription is in lower Cataract Canyon, accompanied by a crude picture of a boat, and he may have been drowned soon after cutting it, since no further trace of his movements can be found. Another inscription opposite Lake Creek in Glen Canyon dated 1837 may have been made by some of his party. Powell did not see any of these. Julien's inscriptions were discovered by Stanton's expedition in 1889-90. The Lake Creek inscription was found by Julius F. Stone's party in 1938. [Most of the known facts about Denis Julien are set forth by Mr. Kelly in "The Mysterious D. Julien," Utah Historical Quarterly. July, 1933, vol. VI, pp. 83-88.] 322 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY will, passing by many and many views that would set at least 3/3 of the people in the States crazy. One represented an archway to some monastery, while two streams of water came tumbling down onto it from above. At 5:00 we caught up with the "Nell" just as she was landing for camp. Cutting our way through the dense willows that lined the bank we pitched our tents, built a cheery fire, cut some willows and made our beds. After supper we made our cigarettes and smoked cozily while the Maj. read to us from Whittier. I wish that the dear ones at home could see us as we sat around the fire. Sept. 12th. A clear sky this morning and pulling out early in hopes of reaching the Grand and Colorado river tomorrow night, some 30 or 35 miles away. We made 15% miles yesterday. At 10% we came to a lovely butte resembling the Grecian cross. We landed to take a view of it while the boats dropped down about a mile around the bend and went into camp for dinner. We found some pure water on top of the rocks. After taking 3 or 4 views of the different buttes we made for camp about % of a mile away; found that the Maj., Prof, and Steward [were] on the other side of the river geologizing. When they came in the Maj. said that he had found some more pictures for us across the river. So after dinner Beaman and I got into the Maj.'s boat and after dropping down a mile landed on the other side. Left Fred at the boat sketching, while the Maj., Jones, Beaman and myself climbed back for a mile and % with the boxes, and getting on top of a mound of yellow sand went to work. Oh, but what a grand and desolate scene we beheld- nothing but bare rocks almost level, with peaks, buttes and terraces and towers rising around it. In the distance could plainly see the tortuous winding of the river cutting its way through (some 50 or 100 feet) this valley of rock. Beaman took 6 or 7 views of it. Jones went about a mile away to a water pocket to get some water. About 4% we reached the boats, finding that the Maj. had gone on down to select a camp. We reached it at about 5% and had to take a view of the bend of the river before supper was ready-a fine one. We have run out of Labyrinth Caiion, are now at the head of the [Stillwater] Caiion of the Green. Jones left an axe at our dinner camp and it now reduced us to one. While I was cutting a log it (the log) fell into the river and was soon out of sight around the bend. Have made 10 or 12 miles today. Maj. read Emerson to us. Sept. 13th. After breakfast Beaman took a couple of fine views, one of the river and another of the old bed of the river as it comes winding in and around the bluffs, while I fixed up the negatives and varnished them. The Maj. and Prof, climbed out; they came in at 10:45. We then packed up and pulled out, running till 12%. This caiion is about the same as JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 323 Labyrinth except geologically. We camped on some rocks on right bank for dinner, starting out again at 2:15. At 3:00 we landed to climb the bluff, take some views, while the Maj. and Prof, climbed out onto a high ridge. After taking 3 fine views we started out at 4%. We are now going down the river where it is narrow with vertical walls on both sides about 300 feet high. We stopped here and there to pick up driftwood for supper and at 6:00 landed for the night on right bank on a sloping talus of rocks. Built our fires, got supper and made our beds. Found any quantity of the purest kind of salt clinging to the rocks. Fred is 18 years old today. Have made about 10 miles; are 10 miles from junction. Sept. 14th. After breakfast Beaman and I rowed down a mile or so to take some views looking up the river. After taking them I have been writing up my diary for the last week while waiting for the other boats to come down. 'Tis now almost 10 o'clock. They are coming-no, it is not them. After waiting till 12:00 we hear their signals. We cross the river (I breaking another oar in doing it), beach the boat in the soft mud and walk back to camp, finding the Maj., Prof, and Jack had gone up the river to collect fossils, 6 c , but we see them coming around the bend and they are soon with us eating dinner, after which Beaman and I walk back to our boat, shoving her into the water, replacing my broken oar, and wait for the other boats. When they come we take Andy and traps aboard and start on. The walls are growing higher; are from 800 to 1000 feet. The Maj. and Steward stopped about an hour to collect fossils and shortly after stopped again for the same purpose, the Prof, measuring the walls with a theodolite. After running about 5 miles we camp for the night on right bank at 4%. The Maj. and Prof, climbed out. Helped Andy unpack the boats and make our beds. While Steward was hunting for fossils along a ledge of rocks back of camp [he] found a couple of stone houses, calling us up there. On getting up there found a couple of stone huts plastered up with mud that no doubt had been built by a hunter that had been hunting here-the large one used as a shelter, the smaller one for storing away provisions. He must have had a lonely time of it in this desolate country. The Maj. and Prof, on coming in at supper time said that they had found 3 or 4 more houses up the cliffs; that the ones that we had found together with the ones that they had found were built by the Shenemo Indians (the remnants of which are now called the Aztecs, or rather the Aztecs are a branch of the Shenemo's) hundreds of years ago, and that they had lived all along the canons from here to the gulf to protect themselves from other tribes. Beaman found a corn cob in one of the houses. The Maj. 324 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY has it now for scientific use. As we sat around the cheerful camp-fire the Maj. told us all about them." Sept. 15th. Andy woke me early to accompany Steward and Fred to see the huts that the Maj. and Prof, had found last night, and climbing up along a narrow ledge soon found the ruins of a stone hut, the standing wall about 6 feet high, and hunting around found several pieces of fine pottery and arrowheads and any quantity of chippings. On returning to camp the Maj. said that he, Jones, Andy and Jack would climb out here while Beaman, Fred and I waited for them; the Prof., Bish and Steward to go on to the junction 8 miles down farther. After breakfast the Maj. and party started out while Fred and I went back to the ruins to collect some more relics, finding more pieces of pottery and arrowheads. Getting tired of that we sat down inside and read the Chicago Times that I happened to have in my pocket. At 11% we saw the Maj. and the rest coming back, and on going back to camp Andy showed us a splendid earthen jug (with a lot of split willows that the Shenemo's used to bake bread inside of it) holding 4 or 5 gallons. Found it under a rock with a small rock on top of it. The willows were tied up in bundles with small cords made from wild hemp but rotten with age. After dinner packed the boats and started for the junction. The river being very shallow we ran onto several sand bars and in pulling off of one of them I broke another oar but replaced it. The caiion is narrow and walls rise up vertically for 1200 or 1500 feet. It is by all odds the prettiest canon we have passed through. At about 4:00 we came to the union of the Green, Grand and Colorado rivers." The brand [branch?] is called "The Pride of Colorado," and is about the same size as the Green, as also is the Colorado, as far as we can see here. The Maj. has decided to call Green River Canon "Stillwater Canon." The canon at the mouth of the Grand is unnamed and unknown and just around the corner is the dreaded Cataract Canon. I fear we will have trouble in it. The Maj. has told us to expect 3 weeks of hard work in it. We saw the "Nell" moored to a wide sand bank. We ran to the left bank for the "Emma," ran aground near the right and had hard work to get off; finally it dropped down % a mile below the "Nell" while we rowed upstream and landed up % a mile above the "Nell," making "Junction City," like Washington, a city of magnificent distances. Andy's camp is near our boat, the "Nell's" tent is near them and the "Emma's" fully a mile "Major Powell later founded the Bureau of American Ethnology. His use of die name "Shinumo" to designate ancient cultures has not been continued. T h e Grand River is now officially designated as the upper Colorado, although the Green River is geographically superior and was so considered by early trappers and explorers. In 1869 Samuel Adams and party attempted to navigate the Grand, but never reached die junction. See this Quarterly, 1947, vol. XV, p. 141. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 325 from our boat, but we have a smooth hard sand bank, plenty of shade, grand scenery and a pleasant camp. The walls around us are about 1200 or 1300 feet. We cut our willows and spread them with our blankets on a little shelf of sand and 3% feet high under some huge cottonwoods. After supper built a fire nearby but so much talking going on I went down to the Capt.'s tent and wrote my diary till 9 o'clock. Sept. 16th. After breakfast the Maj., Beaman, Jack, Jones and Fred and myself rowed upstream for about a mile in the "Canonita." Landed at a gulch leading up the right wall of the caiion. After a long weary climb of about 1% hours up 1200 or 1300 feet and walking along a smooth plateau of white sandstone, we got a view of a country that repaid us of old for all our hard work in lugging these "mountain howitzers," the dark tent and camera boxes up. Ten thousand pinnacles and buttes rose around us, some red and some white sandstone; the Colorado River to the right and the Green to the left of us, the Grand coming in in front of us. The rock on which we stood was seamed and scarred with many a dangerous crack. We soon had the dark tent up and we commenced taking views. We saw Steward on the other side of a gulch but could not get to him. At noon we ate our lunch under the shade of a cedar tree, then made some cigarettes and smoked awhile. Fred began to sketch, Beaman to photograph; Maj. and Jones went off toward the pinnacles while Jack and I went from pine to pine tree in search of pitch for the boats. We gathered quite a lot of it and getting tired and thirsty we hunted out a shade under the rocks and drank from one of the many pockets of water, then making our cigarettes enjoyed a quiet afternoon siesta, looking at the sublime works of nature. Oh! the eternal silence that reigns here, only broken when some storm sweeps over, filling the gulches with torrents of water. While sitting there talking we saw the Maj. and Jones coming back and picking up our bundles of pitch we soon joined them. The Maj. said that they had seen a wonderfully grand country behind yonder buttes; that we would leave the boxes up here and come up again tomorrow. Calling to Beaman and Fred they came up to us; putting the boxes under some rocks and eating up the rest of the bread and meat, returned to the boats, then to camp at 4% p.m. Wrote in my diary till supper time, after which I built a fire for the Maj. while he wrote his journal, and then went down a mile to Jack and Fred's camp and spent the evening very pleasantly till 10:00. In coming back over the sand "under the starlight alone" wished many and many a time that Morris was with me. How he would enjoy it. Sept. 17th. This morning at 7:00 the Maj., Prof., Steward, Jack, Fred, Andy, Beaman and myself got into the "Canonita." and rowed up to the gulch and climbed up. Fred, Andy, Jack 326 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY and myself were behind; took our time to it, but the rest rushed up. We soon overtook them among the pinnacles, peaks and buttes. Setting up our dark tent commenced our work. At noon we built a fire and made some good coffee, ate our bread and meat, then packed up the things, moved a mile farther on and put the things up again, I focusing the camera while Beaman coated the plates. Again packing them up moved about a mile, set them up and finished our work about 5:00. The scenery is simply sublime; I cannot describe it. We wandered from park to park, each enclosed with buttes and pinnacles and covered with sand (the parks), cedar and pine trees. Oh well, such a sight I never again shall behold. The Maj. said he had never seen such a sight before-called it "Sin-av-tou-weap" meaning God or Devil's Land in the Sheviwits [Shivwits] language. We have taken 19 views of it-it ought to describe it. Packing up, climbed down to the boat taking turns in carrying the boxes. Steward found pieces of arrowheads and pottery, showing that the Shenemos have lived here. Reached camp just about dark; got supper, made a fire and had our usual talk and chat around it, but interrupted every now and then by the caving in of the bank on which we are camped. When we first came here the bank was fully 100 feet wide, and at least 75 of it has been cut away by the changing of the current of the stream and has been driving us farther and farther back till at last we are on the higher bank under the very limbs of a huge cottonwood. After the fire had burned low we also retired. Sept. 18th. The Maj. called us early this morning and told us that he wanted us to climb up the other wall and take some more pictures. Beaman not liking the idea told him that he (Beaman) had to "fix his chemicals" before they would work. The Maj. believing him gave up, and taking Jones climbed up for topographical work. I am mighty glad that Beaman's chemicals "were out of order" for I had plenty of work to do and did not feel like lugging that infernal "howitzer" up 1200 or 1400 feet. In the forenoon cut down my oars, making them about the best pair in the "biz." Did some mending and washing in the afternoon. Had a pleasant time talking and chatting with Steward and Fred, the former arranging his fossils, the latter finishing his sketches." At 6% the Maj. and Jones returned. We had beans for dinner-they were gay. We are short of rations and will not have much time for stopping to climb out. Sept. 19th. Yesterday Beaman and I took 3 views of the junction of the rivers. We are short on glass, can only take 40 views more till we meet the pack train at the Crossing of the Fathers, 160 miles away. The Maj. will use up the 40 glass "Dellenbaugh was official artist for die expedition, but the two young men were not particularly friendly and Clem seldom mentions his artistic activities. JOURNAL OF WALTER CLEMENT POWELL 327 before reaching the Dirty Devil at the end of Cataract Canon, 40 miles long. We have only 25 or 30 days' rations and have shut down on sugar, Andy putting a cupful in each kettle of coffee. Are about out of beans; have not had any for some time. They tasted good yesterday. Do not cook as much meat at a meal now as we used to but eat more bread and "sop," 100 lbs. flour lasting us 7 days. We have now about 350 lbs. Yesterday on looking at some negatives that had been packed away I found a couple of fine ones broken. Maj. told Beaman to be more careful. This morning before breakfast cleaned my part of the boat out nicely. After breakfast we packed her as also did the rest of the boys their boats, and at 10:00 a.m. we bade Green and Grand rivers farewell and started on the Colorado, down dreaded Cataract Caiion.60 We had smooth water for the first 4% miles and then came to two of our old friends, "regular roarers," one after the other, and of course our famed [?] kicking portages at both of them. They are not so pleasant as they "used to was," for the water is colder and filthier. Bruised my leg badly on one of the rocks and was swept away from the boat, but was brought up against a rock all O.K. We landed at 11% for dinner; have made 5 miles. The Maj. told Fred and Steward and I not to "go" for Bish; said he could not take a joke. Wrote my diary up to last night while Andy was cooking. At 1:15 started out again, running rapid after rapid till 7 had waxed and waned and 5 kicking portages-9 rapids, making 7 portages for today. Some fearfully long ones-one was % a mile of fall, Andy and I wading and swimming by the side of the boat, now hanging onto her, kicking her off the rocks and again being dragged by her over them, each crew letting down its own boat. The current is very swift in the rapids and soon reduces one's breeches to shreds. The water is chilly and we are glad to get in the sunshine. The walls vary from 1200 to 1500 feet, nearly vertical and are broken into crags. Have made 9% miles today. We landed on left-hand bank for the night at 4% under a cottonwood tree. Wrote my diary while Andy was getting supper. Sept. 20th. This morning the Maj. and Fred climbed out across the river. Bishop and Steward climbed some gulches for geological and topographical work. I helped Beaman make a couple of pictures. Prof, and Jones are busy taking observations. Jack is doing some washing and I am putting leather on my oars. By and by the Prof, and Jones came up and said that they wanted Jack and myself to help them let down the "Nell" below the two "From Powell himself, and from Sumner's journal, the men knew what to expect in Cataract Canyon where many men have since lost tiieir lives. Its difficulties depend upon the stage of water. Dr. R. G. Frazier's party went through in 27 hours' running time on high water. Others have run all rapids without portaging or lining. On this date the water would normally be at a medium low stage. |
