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Show 308 CHAPTER XIV. Valparaiso-Excursion to base of Andes-Structure of land-Ascend Bell of Quillota-Shattered masses of greenstone-Immense valleys-Mines- State of miners-Santiago-Hot baths of Cauquenes-Gold mines-Grinding mills-PP.rforated stones-Habits of puma-El turco and tapacolo-Humming-birds. CENTRAL CHILE. JuLY 23n.-The Beagle anchored late at night in the bay of Valparaiso, the chief seaport of Chile. When morning came, every thing appeared delightful. After Tierra del Fuego, the climate felt quite delicious-the atmosphere so dry, and the heavens so clear and blue, with the sun ~hining bri~htly, that all nature seemed sparkling with life. The VIew from the anchorage is very pretty. The town ~s built at the very foot of a range of hills, about 1600 feet h1gh, and rather steep. From its position, it consists of one long, straggling street, which runs parallel to the beach and wher~ver a r~vine comes down, the houses are piled u~ on each side of It. The rounded hills, being only partially protected by a very scanty vegetation, are worn into numberless little gullies, which expose a singularly bright red soil. From this cause, and from the low whitewashed houses with tile roofs, the view reminded me of St. Cruz in Teneriffe. In a north-easterly direction there are some fine glimpses of the Andes: but these mountains appear much g:ander when viewed from the neighbouring hills; the great dista~ce at which they are situated can then more readily be p~rcmved. ~he volcano of. Aconcagua is particularly magmficent. This huge and Irregularly conical mass has an elevation greater than that of Chimborazo; for, from measurements made by the officers in the Beagle, its height is no less than 23,000 feet. The Cordillera, however, viewed from Aug. 1834. VALPARAISO. 309 this point, owe the greater part of their beauty to the atmo& phere through which they are seen. When the sun was setting in the Pacific, it was admirable to watch how clearly their rugged outlines could be distinguished, yet how varied and how delicate were the shades of their colour. I had the good fortune to find living here Mr. Richard Corfield, an old schoolfellow and friend, to whose hospitality and kindness I was greatly indebted, in having afforded me a most pleasant residence during the Beagle's stay in Chile. The immediate neighbourhood of Valparaiso is not very productive to the naturalist. The surrounding hills consist of a granitic formation, which sometimes assumes the character of gneiss, and sometimes of granite. Their summits are flat-topped, and their flanks rounded. I have before stated, that forests cover that side of the Cordillera which fronts the prevailing winds. Here, during the summer, which forms the longer portion of the year, the winds blow steadily from the southward, and a little off shore, so that rain never falls : during the three winter months it is however sufficiently abundant. The vegetation in consequence is very scanty. Except in some deep valleys, trees nowhere occur, and only a little grass and a few low bushes are scattered over the less steep parts of the hills. When we reflect that, at the distance of 350 miles to the southward, this side of the Andes is completely hidden by one impenetrable forest, the contrast is very remarkable. I took several long walks while collecting objects of natural history. The country is pleasant for exercise. There are many very beautiful flowers, and as in most other dry climates, the plants and shrubs possess strong and peculiar oduurs ; even one's clothes by brushing through them became scented. I did not yet cease from wonder, at finding each succeeding day as fine as the foregoing. What a difference does climate make in the enjoyment of life ! How opposite are the sensations when viewing black mountains half-enveloped in clouds, and seeing another range through the light |