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Show 192 'l'AHITI. Nov. 1835. viewing the surrounding country from the knife-edged ridges, the point of support was so small, that the effect was nearly the same, I should think, as from a balloon. In this descent we had occasion to use the ropes only once, at the point where we entered the main valley. We slept ~nder the same ledge of rock, where, the day before, we had dmed: the night was fine, but from the depth and narrowness of the gorge, profoundly dark. Before actually seeing this country, I had difficulty in understanding two facts mentioned by Ellis ; namely, that after the murderous battles of former times, the survivors on the conquered side retired into the mountains, where a handful of men could resist a multitude. Certainly half-adozen men, at the spot where the Tahitian reared the old tree, could easily have repulsed thousands. Secondly, that after the introduction of Christianity, there were wild men who lived in the mountains, and whose retreats were unknown to the more civilized inhabitants. NOVEMBER 20TH.-ln the morning we started early, and reached Matavai at noon. On the road we met a large party of noble athletic men, going for wild bananas. I found that the ship, on account of the difficulty in watering, had moved to the harbour of Papawa, to which place I immediately walked. This is a very pretty spot. The cove is surrounded by reefs, and the water as smooth as that in a lake. The cultivated ground, with all its beautiful productions, and the cottages, comes close down to the water's edge. From the varying accounts which I had read before reaching these islands, I was very anxious to form, from my own observation, a judgment of their moral state-although such judgment would necessarily be very imperfect. A first impression at all times very much depends on one's previously- acquired ideas. My notions were drawn from Ellis's "Polynesian Researches"-an admirable and most interesting work, but naturally looking at every thing under a favourable point of view; from Beechey's Voyage; and Nov. 1835. 'l'A II T'l'r. 493 from that of Kotzebue, which is strongly adverse to the whole missionary system. He who compares these three accounts, will, I think, form a tolerably accurate conception of .the present state of Tahiti. One of my impressions, whiCh I took from the two last authorities, was decidedly incorrect; viz., that the Tahitians had become a gloomy race, and lived in fear of the missionaries. Of the latter feelino- I saw no trace, unless, indeed, fear and respect be confounded under one name. Instead of discontent being a common feeling, it would be difficult in Europe to pick out of a crowd half so many merry and happy faces. The prohibition of the flute and dancing is inveighed against as wrong and foolish ;-the more than presbyterian manner of keeping the sabbath, is looked at in a similar light. On these points I will not pretend to offer any opinion in opposition to men who have resided as many years as I was days on the island. On the whole it appears to me, that the morality and religion of the inhabitants is highly creditable. There are many who attack, even more acrimoniously than Kotzebue, both the missionaries, their system, and the effects produced by it. Such reasoners never compare the present state with that of the island only twenty years ago; nor even with that of Europe at this day; but they compare it with the high standard of Gospel perfection. They expect the missionaries to effect that, which the Apostles themselves failed to do. In as much as the condition of the people falls short of this high order, blame is attached to the missionary, instead of credit for that which he has effected. They forget, or will not remember, that human sacrifices, and the power of an idolatrous priesthood-a system of profligacy unparalleled in the world, and infanticide a consequence on that system-bloody wars, where the conquerors spared neither women nor children- that all these have been abolished~ and that dishonesty, intemperance, and licentiousness h~ve been greatly reduced by the introduction of Christianity. In a voyager to forget these things is base ingratitude ; for should he chance to be at the point of shipwreck on some unknown |