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Show 382 CHAPTER XVII. Valparaiso-Passage of Andes by Portillo pass-Sagacity of mulesMountain torrents-Mines, how discovered-Marine alluvium in valleys- Effect of snow on surface-Geology, fossil shells, double range, two periods of elevation-Red snow-Winds on the crest- Snow thawing in pinnacles-Dry and clear atmosphere-Electricity-PampasZoology of opposite sides of Andes-Uniformity of Patagonia-Locusts -Great bugs-Mendoza-Uspallata-Silicified trees in vertical position- Indian ruins-Change of climate-Earthquake arching bed of rlver-Cumbre-Valparaiso. PASSAGE OF CORDILLERA. MARCH 7TH, 1835.-We staid only three days at Concepcion, and then sailed for Valparaiso. The wind being northerly, we only reached the mouth of the harbour of Concepcion before it was dark. Being very near the land, and a fog coming on, the anchor was dropped. Presently a large American whaler appeared close alongside of us ; and we heard the Yankee swearing at his men, to make them keep quiet, whilst he listened where the breakers were. Captain FitzRoy hailed him in a loud clear voice, to anchor where he then was. The poor man must have thought the voice came from the shore : such a Babel of cries issued at once from the ship- every one hallooing out, " Let go the anchor! veer cable! shorten sail!" It 'was the most laughable thing I ever heard. If the ship's crew had been all captains, and no men, there could not have been a greater uproar of orders. We afterwards found that the mate stuttered. I suppose all hands were assisting him in giving his orders. On the ll th we anchored at Valparaiso ; and two days afterwards I set out on an excursion to cross the Cordillera. I proceeded to Santiago, where Mr. Caldcleugh most kindly March, 1835. PORTILLO PASS. 383 assist.ed me ~n every possible way, in making the little preparatiOns whiCh were necessary. In this immediate part of Chile there are two passes across the Andes to Mendoza and the plains on the opposite side. The one most com-' monly used, namely, that of Aconcagua, or U spallata, is situated some way to the northward of the capital: the other, called the Portillo, is to the southward, and less distant. The latter is, however, rather more lofty, and from the double chain, more dangerous during a snow-storm. For these reasm.1s it is but little used, especially late in the season. MARCH 18TH.-We set out for the Portillo pass. Leaving Santiago we crossed the wide burnt-up plain on which that city stands, and in the afternoon arrived at the Maypo, one of the principal rivers in Chile. The valley, at the point where it enters the first Cordillera, is bounded on each side by lofty barren mountains; and although not broad, it is very fertile. Numerous cottages were surrounded by vines, and by orchards of apple, nectarine, and peach trees; the boughs of the latter breaking with the weight of the beautiful ripe fruit. In the evening we passed the custom-house, where our luggage was examined. The frontier of Chile is better guarded by the Cordillera, than by the waters of the sea. There are very few valleys which lead to the central ranges, and, except by these, the mountains are far too steep and lofty for any beast of burden to pass over them. The customhouse officers were very civil; which was perhaps partly owing to the passport which the President of the republic had given me ; but I must also express my admiration at the natural politeness of almost every Chileno. In this instance the contrast with the same class of men in most other countries was strongly marked. I may mention an anecdote with which I was much pleased at the time. We met near Mendoza a little and very fat negress, riding astride on a mule. She had a go'lt1·e so enormous, that it was scarcely possible to avoid gazing at her for a moment; but my two companions almost instantly, by way of apology, |