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Show 164 RIO PARANA. Oct. 1833. with a favouring current, the master was much too indolent to think of starting. At Bajada, he was described to me as "hombre muy aflicto,"-a man always miserable to get on; but certainly he bore all delays with admirable resig~atio~. He was an old Spaniard, and had been many years m this country. He professed a great liking to the English, but stoutly maintained that the battle of Trafalgar was merely won by the Spanish captains having been all bought over ; and that the only really gallant action on either side was performed by the Spanish admiral. It struc~ me as rather characteristic, that this man should prefer his countrymen being thought the worst of traitors, rather than unskilful or cowardly. 18TH AND 19TH.-We continued slowly to sail down the noble stream: the current helped us but little. Azara has estimated that even near the sources between latitudes 16° 24' and 22° 57', the river has only a fall of one foot for each mile of latitude; lower down, this must be much diminished. It is stated. that a rise of seven feet at Buenos Ayres can be perceived sixty leagues up the course of the Parana. We met, during our descent, very few vessels. One of the best gifts of nature seems here wilfully thrown away, in so grand a channel of communication being left unoccupied. A river in which ships might navigate from a temperate country, as surprisingly abundant in certain productions as destitute of others, to another possessing a tropical climate, and a soil which, according to the best of judges, M. Bonpland, is perhaps unequalled in fertility, in any part of the world. How different would have been the aspect of this river, if English colonists had by good fortune first sailed up the Plata! What noble towns would now have occupied its shores ! Till the death of Francia, the Dictator of Paraguay, these two countries must remain distinct, as if placed on opposite sides of the globe. And when the old, bloody-minded tyrant is gone to his long account, Paraguay will be torn by revolutions, violent in proportion to the previous unnatural calm. That country Oct. 1833. BUENOS AYRES. 165 ·will have to learn, like every other South American state that a r~public c~nnot suc~ee~, till it contains a certain bod; of men Imbued With the prme1ples of justice and honour. Oc·roBER 20TH.-Being arrived at the mouth of the Parana, and as I was very anxious to reach Buenos Ayres, I went on shore at ~as Conchas, with the intention of riding there. Upon ~andmg, I found to my great surprise, that I was to a certam degree a prisoner. A violent revolution having broken out, all the ports were laid under an embargo. I cou_ld n?t return to my vessel, and as for going by land to t~e c1t!, 1t was out of the question. After a long conversation With the Commandant, I obtained permission to go, the next day, to General Rolor, who commanded a division of the rebels, on this side of the capital. In the morning I rode to the encampment. The general, officers, and soldiers, all appeared, and I believe really were, great villains. The general the very evening before he left the city, voluntarily ~ent to the governor, and with his hand to his heart, pledged his word of honour, that he would remain faithful to the last. The general told me, that the city was in a state of close blockade, and that all he could do was to give me a passport to the commander-in-chief of the rebels at Quilmes. We had, therefore, to take a great sweep round the city, and it was .with much difficulty that we procured horses. My receptiOn at the encampment was quite civil, but I was told it was impossible that I could be allowed to enter the city. I was very anxious about this, as I anticipated the Beagle's departure from the Rio Plata, earlier than it took place. Having mentioned, however, General Rosas's obliging kindness to me when at the Colorado, magic itself could not have altered circumstances quicker than did this convers~ tion. I was instantly told that though they could not giVe. me a passport, if I chose to leave my guide and horses, I .might pass their sentinels. I was too glad to accept of th1s, and an officer was sent with me to give directions, that I might not be stopped at the bridge. The road for the space of a league was quite deserted. I met one party of |