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Show 1832-3. MALDONADO. 48 . 1 form . and with 1 mmetrica ' mountam. s. It is of the usudai n s~I n t h e cen tre ' had rather a its whitewashed chur~h stantski~ting houses rose out of th~ retty appearance. '1 ~e ou without the accompanim~nt o pp la .m like isolated bde mgTs,h i.s I.S gene rally the case In the gardens or courtyar s. h e in consequence, an u~com-country, an d a1 1 the hou.s ehst wave ' stopped at a p ulpena' or fortable aspect. At . mg the evening a great .number ~f drinking-shop. . Dun~gink spirits and smoke cigars : thei~ Gauchos came 111 to r .. (J'. the are generally ta~ an appearance is ve~y stnk:~d andy dissolute expresswn of handsome, but with a p l ar their moustaches, and countenance. They ~equent;nw:heir backs. With the~r lon(J' black hair curlmg do t spurs clanking about their b . ol tly coloured garments, grea ( d often so used) ng 1 • k daggers an heels and knives stuc as different race of men from at the' ir wa.i sts, they look a very th ·r name of G auch os, or ted from ei . h what might be expec . r teness is excessiVe: t ey simple count rym.e n . . T. heir . tphooIu t expectm. g you t o taste never drink. their s~uits t:;ir exceedingly graceful bow, 't. but whilst makmg . . offered to cuty our It h'e y seem qm't ·e as ready, If occaswn ' throat. ed rather an irregular course, as On the third day we p~r.su b ds of marble. On the d . mmmg some e . R1 ) I was employe 111 exa t · hes (StTutlno aea · f saw many os nc h' fine plains of tur we . d any as twenty or t uty fl ks contame as m d Some of the oc . ny little eminence, an birds. These, when standmg e~:nt:d a very noble appear-seen against the clear . shk y, phr tame ostn.c h es I.Il any other ance. I never met ~It su:asy to gallop up within a short part of the countr:: I tw:~en expanding their wings, they distance of them ' bu h ' . d and soon left the horse made all sail right before t e wm ' astern. house of Don Juan Fuentes, a At night we came to the lly known to either . t but not persona rich landed propne or, h' the house of a stranger, of my compam. ons. On appro. alc m.g . of etiquette : n· d'm g I. t I.S usual t o follow several htt e pieces 1832-3. MALDONADO. 49 up slowly to the door, the salutation of Ave Maria* is given, and until somebody comes out, and asks you to alight, it is not customary even to get off your horse. Having entered the house, some general conversation is kept up for a few minutes, till permission is asked to pass the night there. ,.fhis is granted as a matter of course. The stranger then takes his meals with the family, and a room is assigned him, where with the horsecloths belonging to his recado (or saddle of the Pampas) he makes his bed. It is curious how similar circumstances produce such similar results in manners. At the Cape of Good Hope the same hospitality, and very nearly the same points of etiquette, are universally observed. The difference, however, between the character of the Spaniard and that of the Dutch boor is shown, by the former never asking his guest a single question beyond the strictest rule of politeness, whifst the honest Dutchman demands where he has been, where he is going, what is his business, and even how many brothers, sisters, or children he may happen to have. Shortly after our arrival at Don Juan's, one of the large herds of cattle was driven in towards the house, and three beasts were picked out to be slaughtered for the supply of the establishment. "rhese half-wild cattle are very active; and knowing full well the fatallazo, they led the horses a long and laborious chase. After witnessing the rude wealth displayed in the number of cattle, men, and horses, Don Juan's miserable house was quite curious. The floor consisted of hardened mud, and the windows were without glass; the furniture of the sitting-room boasted only of a few of the roughest chairs and stools, with a couple of tables. The supper, although several strangers were present, consisted of two huge piles, one of roast beef, the other of boiled, with some pieces of pumpkin : besides this latter there was no other vegetable, and not even a morsel of bread. For drink- • The formal answer of the owner of the place is, "sin pecado conce~ bida"-(conceived without sin). VOL. III. E |