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Show 570 CHAPTER XXIII. Mauritius, beautiful appearance-Hindoos-Cape of Goo Hope-St. Helena-Geology-History of changes in vegetation, probable cause of extinction ofland-shells-Ascension-Green Hill-Curious incrustations of calcareons matter on tidal rocks-Bahia-Brazil-Splendour of tropical scenery-Pernambuco-Singular reef-Azores-Supposed crater-Hints to collectors-Retrospect of the most impressive parts of the voyage. MAURITIUS '1'0 ENGLAND. APRIL 29TH.-In the morning we passed round the northern extremity of the Isle of France. From this point of view the aspect of the island equalled the expectations raised by the many well-known descriptions of its beautiful scenery. The sloping plain of the Pamplemousses, scattered · over with houses, and coloured bright green from the large fields of sugar-cane, composed the foreground. The brilliancy of the green was the more remarkable, because it is a colour which generally is only conspicuous from a very short distance. Towards the centre of the island, groups of wooded mountains rose out of this highly-cultivated plain ; their summits, as so commonly happens with ancient volcanic rocks, being jagged into the sharpest points. Masses of white clouds were .collected around their pinnacles, as if for the sake of pleasing the stranger's eye. The whole island, with its sloping border and central mountains, was adorned with an air of perfect elegance: the scenery, if I may use such an expression, appeared to the senses harmonious. I spent the greater part of the next day in walking about the town, and visiting different people. The town is of considerable size, and is said to contain 20,000 inhabitants ; the streets are very clean and regular. Although the island has been so many years under the English government, the general character of the place is quite French: Englishmen May, 1S36. MAU ltl'.rl US. 571 speak to their servants in French, and the shops are all French ; indeed I should think that Calais or Boulogne was much more Anglefied. There is a very pretty little theatre, in which operas are excellently performed, and are much preferred by the inhabitants to plays. We were also surprised at seeing large booksellers' shops, with well-stored shelves;music and reading bespeak our approach to the old world of civilization; for in truth both Australia and America may be considered as new worlds. One of the most interesting spectacles in Port Louis, is to observe the various races of men which may be met in walking the streets. Convicts from India are banished here for life ; at present there are about 800, and they are employed in various public works. Before seeing these people, I had no idea that the inhabitants of India were such noble-looking figures. Their skin is extremely dark, and many of the oldez: men had large mustaches and beards of a snow-white colour; this, together with the fire of their expressions, gave them quite an imposing aspect. The greater number have been banished for murder and the worst crimes; others for causes which can scarcely be considered as moral faults, such as for not obeying, from superstitious motives, the English laws. These men are generally quiet and well-conducted ; from their outward conduct, their cleanliness and faithful observance of their strange religious enactments, it was impossible to look at them with the same eyes as on our wretched convicts in New South Wales. Besides these prisoners, large numbers of free people are yearly imported from India : for the planters were afraid that the negroes, when emancipated, would not work. From these causes the Indian population is here very considerable. MAY lsT.-Sunday. I took a quiet walk along the seacoast to the northward of the town. The plain in that part is quite uncultivated ; it consists of a field of black lava, smoothed over with coarse grass and bushes, the latter being chiefly mimosas. Captain FitzRoy, before arriving here, said he expected the island would have a character |