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Show RIVER I decided to take a walk and see how the rest of the town was doing. Down the river wall was a large, barn-like building that was exploding with dynamite soul music. I went into the liquor store next door to see what was going on. Behind the counter was the most uptight white man I've ever met. He looked like he momentarily expected somebody with a large caliber weapon to walk in the door and turn his chest into mush. It appeared certain he had about five more minutes to live and wasn't happy about it. Behind him, placid and calm as a rock, a veritable bridge over troubled waters, stood two-hundred-and-sixty-odd pounds of young jock who looked like he could cripple you with a handshake. "Whaf s going on in there?" I said, pointing at the bar. "Boogies. Jigs. Niggers," said the old man. "Every nigger within twenty miles of Caruthersville is in there drunk on his ass." "I've got to see this," I said and I spun around on my heel. Before I could get out the door I felt his hand on my shoulder. "You stay out of there. Ain't no place for a white man." I turned around to talk to him. "Jesus, this place looks dangerous. Don't it make you nervous?" He looked like he was going to turn blue. "I've got this," he said and he pulled a silver .45 automatic out from beneath the counter. "Yeah, well, be prepared," I said and walked out of the store. I slipped around to the entrance to the bar and walked inside. I was stunned and momentarily overwhelmed by the cavernous, dark bar. It was packed with humanity. About a hundred heads turned and looked at me and a hush fell over the whole place. The crowd appeared about as surprised as I was. Some started hooting and whistling and others burst into howls of laughter -168- |