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Show RTVER The gray sky was oppressive and after a time it seemed like the blank steel clouds had settled onto the river permanently. Each morning seemed a little more bleak and it definitely was getting colder: the wind cut directly through my clothing. One morning, feeling particularly cold and hopeless, I looked at the map and realized I'd be in Caruthersville by mid-afternoon. Caruthersville! After my long stretch on the river, the name conjured up visions of civilization. There were actually warm buildings in Caruthersville, restaurants that sold hot food, hotels that rented showers and beds. All the fruits of the ascent of western man (at least those available to poor folks) could be had there for a few lousy dollars. I had about twenty dollars left and I resolved to spend them on getting warm. I figured out that it was Saturday and I further resolved to spend some of my dwindling resources on having a good time. I was as excited as hell. The prospect of sleeping in a real bed fascinated me: it was not even outside the realm of possibility that I might find a Caruthersville woman to sleep with. Anything could happen. Caruthersville sits at the lower end of a horse-shoe bend, so I could see its radio antenna and water tower long before I rounded the point and saw the place itself. A fine southern town opened up before me, was partly fronted by a river wall towered over by several tall Victorian houses complete with widow's walks. There were a few commercial docks, but I dropped down to a grassy landing that faced onto a square dominated by a large white church. I landed and pulled my boat ashore. I wandered up through the farmer-crowded town and found a place to buy some hamburgers. Then I went to a liquor store and bought a pint of Wild Turkey. The afternoon had already warmed up some and the firewater took the -163- |
