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Show A STARTLING INTERVIEW. 315 that tribe. Jacob Hamlin had visited all the tribes in Northern Arizona, making treaties between the Indians and the Church. My next journey was to Toquerville, where I stopped with Bishop Isaac C. Haight, another leader in the Mountain Meadow Massacre, and a prominent Mormon. Ripe figs, just plucked from the tree, formed part of our dessert. The narrow valley is very fertile; all around are yellow hills and red deserts. A leisurely journey of a day brought me thence to Kanarra, in the rim of the Great Basin. In the south end of town the water flows towards the Colorado; in the north end into the Basin. There I had my first sickness on the trip, as did my horse. We had stood adversity ; prosperity ruined us. I indulged too freely in fruit, and he in Lucerne hay. There was no doctor in town, so I worried it through on hot ginger and " Dixie wine ; " in three days was able to ride, and proceeded by easy stages to Parowan, in Iron County. But six hundred miles through the Indian country had worn out my horse, and on the 16th instant I " ranched him " twenty miles south of Beaver, and set out for that place in the wagon of a Mormon farmer. Some five miles on the road when we were on the Beaver " divide " a cold rain set in and continued for four hours, changing to something very near sleet. The Mormon family and myself suffered greatly with cold. The seasons at Beaver are very late, and wheat harvest does not begin till in August. Little Salt Lake lay a few miles west of our route, on the " divide." Having passed the ridge, I walked down the eight- mile slope to Beaver, which I reached at dark, and was soon warm and happy in the house of a hospitable Gentile. Beaver had been revolutionized by the development of mines. Gentiles were to be seen every- where, and a military post had been established near town. Thence by stage it was two hundred and fifty miles to " Zion ; " and I was pleased to recognize, in the first driver, my old friend Will Kimball, who drove a team across the Plains in the train with me in 1868. Kimball's father was one of the many arrested the previous winter on charges relating to the conduct of the Mormon militia in the rebellion of 1857, but was released with a hundred and twenty others, when the Supreme Court reversed Judge McKean's rulings. In the progress of Utah affairs, nearly all of the family left by old Heber Kimball have become pretty good Gentiles. This seems to be the course of all such delusions which do not end in blood. I halted for a day's rest at Fillmore, the old Territorial capital, a hundred and seventy- five miles south- west of Salt Lake, and quite a |