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Show ACROSS THE PLAINS IN 1858 By Richard Thomas Ackley1 of Camden, New Jersey Born 1832 - Died 1881 Sidney, Fremont County, Iowa. June 21, 1858. After becoming tired of this place Jim Packard, Tom Akins, Oil Scoggins and myself prepared for a trip across the plains to some point we did not know exactly where. We all put in our little mites, and as Tom and Oil were both judges of stock, it was entrusted with them to procure a team. A very good covered wagon was procured and four good mules bought. We concluded by taking plenty of sugar, coffee, crackers, tobacco and whisky, we could trade or dispose of the articles to a good advantage, so to Jim and me was entrusted the care of making up the merchandise. Every penny we four could raise was expended in merchandise and in a general outfit for the plains. So in the afternoon of this day, after having everything all ready, we bid goodby to our friends and rolled out; stopped at Abe Acord's about three miles out of town all night. We were well entertained. June 22, 1858. We were up bright and early; after breakfasting we again started. Abe Acord accompanied us to Nebraska City. The road after we got down in the bottom was very heavy. We had great difficulty in making the river. Crossed in a steam ferry boat and camped just out of town. Drove about 12 miles. June 23, 1858. Rained quite hard all night and day, Towards evening we bid adieu to Abe and made a short drive. After being out a few days things began to come around all right. In crossing the Saline River we had some trouble. The stream was very high. Met a great many Kaw and Pawnee Indians whom we shunned as much as possible. The latter tribe is a thieving set, and are constantly prowling about the country for what they can steal and beg. About the fourth day out we lost a very valuable dog that Abe Acord had given to us. I think he must have lagged behind and given out, as on that day water was very 1 The original manuscript journal was obtained in January, 1930, from Frank L. Ack-lev. 107 No. Mole Street, Philadelphia, Pa., a son of the journalist. The son writes in part: " My father was a sutler at Camp Floyd and other places. He was employed at Salt Lake City in the store of Mfiler. Russell & Co., a branch of Russell Malors & Waddell. The wagon masters of the above company all came to his store to be pSd off There is much said in the journal of the desperadoes and tough characters of Salt Lake City in 1858- 1859. Many characters are mentioned who were nrominent In Utah or western history, such as General Harney, General A S. Johnson, Co" Alexander, Porter RockweH Bill Hickman Ephraim Hanks, Pegleg Smith, Mr. Russell, Captain Grant, James Bridger and Capt. Owen >. i„<..„ sfino. rfoo^ rinHnno are elven of the Mormon State Fair, the Mormon ACROSS THE PLAINS IN 1858 191 scarce. His loss was much regretted. Our mode of traveling may be somewhat interesting. When we came to a place where we wanted to camp for dinner or all night, after unharnessing and watering, the animals were picketed down with ropes, and changed several times. Through the course of the night two of the party generally attended to the animals and the other two attended to getting wood or Buffalo chips to cook by. I was always considered in command of the party and had charge of all accounts. The driving was done' by different ones, changing every day. June, 1858. The beauty in traveling is never to allow yourself to camp twice in the same place, which we made a rule and always adhered to, unless we chose to lay over to rest. Persons traveling as we were after being out some time, become very dilatory about most everything, unless there is someone to move the party up. I have forgotten to mention that we also had a very pretty black pony along with us. He gave us a great deal of trouble, for whenever we camped he would invariably run back several miles, and someone would be obliged to go after him. It will be well enough before I advance too far, to state where our party was originally from. Jim S. Packard was a native of Delaware and the only son of a widow. Jim had been living in Philadelphia for some time, but became dissatisfied and went out west to Sidney in Fremont County, Iowa. Was in business there some time with his cousin, William Sepple, who treated him rather badly, so he left him. Jim and I always were warm friends. Thomas A. Atkins was a native of Kentucky, and finally ran away from home and made his home at Sidney, where he did considerable business in trading. Oliver Scoggins was also a native of Kentucky. His father and mother emigrated to Missouri when Oil was very young, where the father soon died. The mother married again a man from near New Santa Fe in Jackson County, Missouri, named Lipscomb. Mrs. Lipscomb was one of the prettiest women I ever saw or knew. Oil was a desperate character. He had a brother, John, who was the terror of the west in the way of horse stealing and highway robbery. On the afternoon we left Sidney after our team had rolled out, I was detained in town some time on business. Then the stage arrived with the mail from the east and had two letters for me, both from home wanting me to pack up and come on home, as they had a No. 1 situation for me. What was I to do? Everything I had in the world was engaged in the trip we were about taking, so I set down and penned a few lines hastily, stating where I was going and it would be impossible for me to return east. We had a great deal of trouble in getting across the Missouri Bottom, which was almost covered with water. The distance across is eight miles. Several times we were obliged to unload our wagon and unharness our mules. Several times we were on 192 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY the point of turning back, but we finally got to the river and across, where we made or was shown a good camp by a friend of mine, named Bowler; so we called the first camp west of the Missouri River, Camp Bowler, in honor to my friend. The mosquitos were very bad. It was almost impossible to sleep. Jim and Tom went to the hills with three blankets to sleep. Our next camp which was four miles out of town, we called Camp Scoggins. We were some little alarmed at night by prowling Pawnees, who gave us some little trouble. The next day we drove on to Weeping Water, a very pretty little stream. Camped on the west bank here at night. Our mules were somewhat scared by a large wolf, who made his appearance. Oil fired his pistol at him and the dog ran him off. These wolves are very large sometimes, and give, when hungry, a great deal of trouble. Next day made a drive of about 12 miles, Tom driving, Jim on the pony and Oil and I on foot ahead of the wagon looking out for game. Our camp this evening is on Saline River. The water here is very salty, caused by a number of salt springs emptying into it. The river being so very high we concluded not to cross. The next day being Sunday, we remained in camp all day. Amused ourselves in bathing and shooting at a mark. Some Pawnees came into our camp and remained with us for a time. Monday, still in camp. We are afraid to cross; the stream is too full. Tuesday we concluded to cross, which we did successfully. The country now becomes a rolling prairie. Saw many antelope, but did not get any. Jim is complaining today. Made a short camp for dinner and camped for the night on a spot near Cottonwood Creek. Our mules were much troubled by wolves or Indians. Either would have met with a warm reception, as we were all well armed with rifles and pistols and pretty good shots. We were up early and glad to get away from our old camp. Jim, poor fellow, is very sick. Saw a great many antelope today. They were entirely too wild. Made a short stop for dinner. Our time of starting in the morning is when the sun has been up about one or one and one- half hours, and then drive along to about 11 o'clock, then stop for dinner, then harness up about two or three o'clock and drive along until we come to a good camp for the night. I always like to be in camp for the night, so as to have supper over and all cleaned up before night sets in. Our drives in a day will vary from 15 to 30 miles. Today, Tom shot a large bird, which made us all a mess, with our flap- jacks and coffee. Our camp for the night was on a high, rolling prairie; grass very good but water scarce and no wood. Thursday, July 1st, 1858. Cloudy with some little rain. Shortly after leaving camp a train from Fort Kearney came in sight. It was one of Russell, Majors and Waddell's trains. Each wagon drawn by six yoke of cattle and twenty- six wagons to a ACROSS THE PLAINS IN 1858 193 train. They had been out to Fort Kearney with government supplies, and were returning to Nebraska City. It was a most beautiful sight to see them moving along over the country. After a short drive we came to Elm Creek, where we found plenty of good grass, wood and water: Three very useful things to a traveler. Here we camped for breakfast. This is 100 miles from the river. We drove on then without stopping for dinner until the middle of the afternoon, when we made our night camp at what is known as the Clear Slough, which lies in the Platte River Bottom. Here we all took a fine swim and washed some clothes. Tom and OH have done most of the cooking so far and they really are good hands at it. At night we had a very hard thunder shower and plenty of rain. Poor Jim is still very unwell. He took Cooks Vegetable Pills ( Anti- bilious) and I tell you they kept him moving about all night. The next day the ground was very wet. We were soon ready to move after we had got our breakfast. Passed the grave of N. Runtger, died June 3rd, 1858. A rude board marked the spot, and the wolves had been digging and destroyed the looks of the grave. We are now traveling up the Platte River. Came to a very soft place and had considerable difficulty in getting over it. The Platte is very wide and shallow and full of islands. No timber or even brush. We passed today where several Indian portages had been, and at night camped at what is known as the site of the old Pawnee Village. After supper I visited a number of Indian graves on the bluffs close by. Mosquitoes awful. After breakfast we left our camp at Pawnee Village quite early. Oil today, shot a jackass rabbit. They are very large and fine eating. Camped for the night on the Platte. We have traveled today about 30 miles. Oil is complaining of sore feet. Oil and I thought we saw a buffalo. July 4th. A most beautiful day. We worked the pony on the lead on account of one of the mules having a sore shoulder. I rode the mule bare back. He ran away with me several times. Camped opposite Grand Island for dinner. This island is 50 miles long and mostly timbered, which is a rare thing for this country. After we all took a smoke from our pipes and a short nap, we again moved off. I never saw the flies and mosquitoes worse in my life. At our camp in the evening which was on the Platte. I was standing second watch when I thought I saw an Indian approaching, so I woke the boys very carefully and they were soon in line with their pistols belted on and their rifles in their hands, and away we marched towards the object we thought was the Indian, I the whole time cautioning the boys not to fire until I gave the word and then to aim steady, when about this time we found that the object we thought was an Indian proved to be one of our small 194 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY mules that had got loose and strayed around to the other side of the camp. We all had a hearty laugh over the result. Monday, we were up early and drove about 12 miles before breakfast, and camped where the road from Fort Leavenworth, Kansas, intersects with this running west onto California. Two full trains of 26 wagons each passed on their way to Salt Lake City. These trains camped some distance from us for dinner as it was near the middle of the day. Shortly after we had prepared our camp, an ambulance with four mules drove up. It contained two lieutenants from Camp Scott, 2 one was a Lt. Green, and two old mountaineers from off of Green River. They were on their way to the States and all very drunk. I afterwards became acquainted with this party. The officers both belonged to the regular army and returned the next spring to Camp Floyd. The two mountaineers I also knew or at least got acquainted with them on their return that fall. While in this camp a buffalo came across the river directly towards our wagon. The boys were soon up with their rifles, and as soon as he came close enough they commenced banging away at him. He then returned to the other side, and in spite of their firing returned and ran off towards where some cattle were grazing and stampeded the whole herd. After getting over the excitement we soon were again on the move, and camped in the afternoon about one- fourth mile from Fort Kearney on the bank of the Platte River. We are now 250 miles from the river. Monday, July 5, 1858. Fort Kearney is beautifully situated on the Platte bottom. They have a view up and down the river as far as the eye can carry. The buildings are all with very few exceptions, built of adobe and one- story high. There are about 350 U. S. troops stationed here under the command of Captain McGowan. I could not help noticing the cleanliness of everybody and everything. The men all had their boots blacked and their clothes clean. We spent some little time today looking around the Fort. There was a party of Cheyennes camped close by. I went over to take a peep at them. They are at war with the Pawnees and were making great inquiry about them. Tom and Jim visited the Fort after dusk. Oil and I remained in camp. We were somewhat alarmed in regard to their safety, as they did not return until late. Tuesday, a beautiful day. We were all up early after breakfasting. I cleaned myself up some, and walked over to the Fort, disposed of some 25 pounds of powder that we had and bought some things at the Sutler store, and wrote a short letter to Shreve Ackley. Soon after leaving Kearney, we met a very large train from Camp Scott on Green River. They were a hard looking set of fellows. The wagons were a return train of Russell, Majors and 1 Camp Scott, near Fort Bridger, Wyoming; Johnston's Army encampment during the winter and spring of 1857- 58. ACROSS THE PLAINS IN 1858 195 Waddell, that had wintered in that country and were on their way to Leavenworth City, Kansas Territory. Many of the men were discharged soldiers, and the balance had been in the Quartermaster's employ. Some were mounted and others were on foot. I had a talk with some who gave a very discouraging account of the country west, and of the hardships in wintering in that country. I will mention here that from the time we crossed Salt Creek until we made our camp below Fort Kearney, a distance of 200 miles, we never saw a white man. Passed Colonel Sumner with an escort of one company. Camped on the bank of the river. He was on his way to join the Mormon Expedition. The company made a fine appearance in their camp with their tents all up and their wagons corraled and stock grazing near by. Passed on the road some ox- teams on their way to California with young cattle. We traveled several miles in company with them. Camped for the night near the river. The boys all went over on the other side of the Platte after some brush to cook with. Had some little trouble with our stock. Wednesday, July 7, 1858. Clear and cool. Plenty of buffalo in sight today. Oil went ahead on the pony and succeeded in killing a fat calf, which made a load for the horse, and did not come up until after we had gone into camp on Plum Creek. The weather being too warm to keep much of it, we were obliged to jerk the balance, which is done by cutting the meat in thin slices and drying it in the sun. We hung ours around the side of the wagon until it became thoroughly dried. The buffalo in this location are very thick. In driving along, a large herd came near running over us. We were obliged to hold, up until they had passed. Colonel Morrison with a command of infantry and artillery are in camp a mile below. They are also on their way to join the Salt Lake Expedition. A, lot of discharged soldiers from Fort Bridger, Utah Territory, camped also close by for the night. Some Indians stole their mules and they were obliged to send some men into Fort Kearney after fresh mules. At this camp we did a considerable business. These fellows all had plenty of money and our little stock of sardines, whisky, and tobacco went off like hot cakes. The next day was cloudy. The troops under Morrison are moving on up the river. We prepared to follow soon after, so as to do some trading. Our whisky after reducing it just one half with water, we got one dollar a pint for, or three dollars for filling a canteen. After our whisky began to get low, I used to cut up a lot of tobacco and mix with it to give it strength, and then put in plenty of water. If they only wanted a drink we charged 25 cents, and measured it out to them. Sardines 75 cent a small box, sugar and coffee 50 cents a pint, which was something less than a pound. Flour 50 cents a pint, tobacco 50 cents a plug and so on. 196 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY Several nights thereafter when we went into camp it kept me busy attending to the sales. These soldiers would come to our camp, which was about one and one- half miles off, after marching all day. Colonel Morrison is moving very slow on account of orders from General Harney. At our last camp we left rather hastily, on account of some little maneuvering among the men. As we were moving along on Friday we captured, after some trouble, a fine black cow. She was so wild that before we milked her we were obliged to tie three of her legs. While in camp we thought we saw some other cattle on the other side of the river, so we left Jim in camp and we swam the Platte, but our cattle turned out to be buffalo, and they were coming towards the river, so we hurried back to camp and got our rifles and got our positions so that we could give them a shot on our side of the Platte. We succeeded in killing one, a fine cow, which did us for several days. Jim had dinner prepared, ( bean soup) for us when we returned to camp. While eating, a man came in who said he had walked all the way from Green River. He was a great talker, and amused us considerably with yarns of Indian life and mountain scenes. Made a short drive today, after dinner. The night passed off quietly with the exception of shooting a wolf that happened to come a litde too close. The country here next to the river is as level as the floor, but back it is a rolling prairie, and entirely destitute of wood of any kind. All cooking is obliged to be done by chips ( buffalo). ( This is the dung of the buffalo dried in the sun. It burns like charcoal.) Saturday some little rain. Tom is off trying to kill a buffalo. Our lead mules gave us some trouble today. I ran several miles after them. We had not driven far before an Indian came riding up, and as he was friendly and was begging, we gave him sugar, coffee, flour and tobacco. He seemed much pleased and followed us some distance until we came to an Indian village. They came out in great numbers and endeavored to trade with us, but to no effect. They had some very good ponies. At night we camped at Cottonwood Springs, where the government is now building a Fort. Here we met some Mormons who were on their way to the States. Sunday we were all up early and I walked on ahead. After getting some distance I sat down to rest, when I was disturbed by Gen. Harney and Col. May and party returning to Cottonwood Springs to have a treaty with the Shians. ( Cheyennes.) The General was riding in an ambulance drawn by six white mules, and Col. May in an ambulance drawn by six bay mules, and each of the staff officers were riding in ambulances drawn by four mules. As we were from the East the General halted and made some inquiry about the Sioux, Shians, Pawnees and other Indians. The ACROSS THE PLAINS IN 1858 197 General took a fancy to our pony and wanted to buy it, but as he did not give us our price, they were obliged to go without him. Monday, July 12, 1858. We laid in camp all day on account of the weather, which has been very disagreeable. Wednesday. Tom and Jim have gone out hunting and brought in some Bald-headed Eagles which they found; they were about the size of spring chickens. While we were in camp here, a Mr. C. S. Mills, who belonged to Col. May's command, came over to our camp. We found him to be a gentleman, fond of his whisky and from Washington. He knew several of my friends. That night we had a fine supper of catfish and coffee; the fish were from the Platte. In this section the Prairie dogs are in great abundance; they are rather larger than our squirrels, yellow in color and live in villages, which look like mounds of earth with the entrance from the top. As you are passing by, they will bark at you, and as you draw closer, they run in their holes. It is said by old mountaineers that the owl and the rattlesnake occupy the same hole. That I cannot say, but one thing certain, they are always found together. The prairie dog is very hard to kill, marksmen oftentimes waste a good deal of powder and shot in trying to kill them; they are good eating. We have been now resting our stock for some time. Jim is quite unwell. Passed several prairie dog villages. The roads have been uncommonly sandy. Camped in the evening at what is known as O'Fallon's Bluff. Two trains were camped near us. Shortly after leaving next morning, we passed a train from Laramie on its way to Fort Leavenworth. While camped for dinner, an Indian came to camp by the name of Dog Belly. After giving him something to eat, he wanted us to stop awhile with his people. Met a messenger traveling east to overhaul Gen. Harney from Fort Laramie. While we were looking for a camp we ran afoul of another ambulance drawn by four mules, containing a gentleman, wife and daughter and a young man from Weston, Missouri. They had been traveling in company with others, but their mules had given out, and they were obliged to drop back. They were on their way to Salt Lake City. We all camped together and spent the evening fishing in the Platte. We were rewarded for our trouble by a fine mess. Sunday, July 17, 1858. Blowed very hard all night. Oil is out trying his luck on an antelope. Passed a large band of horses from Sweetwater on their way to the States^ We arrived at the upper crossing of the Platte River about 10 o'clock. Here we met Mr. Wallace and lady. We agreed to assist each other in crossing. They were also from Weston, Missouri. The river here was three- quarters of a mile wide and very deep in some places. Wallace and party crossed first with some difficulty, after we had taken a short lunch of sardines and crackers. There was a man 198 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY living here who acted as pilot on some occasions in crossing the river. The next over was our friend Douglass' ambulance. His lady would not let anybody drive her over but me, and someone of us walking along side of each animal to keep them moving. The river here is full of quicksand. Found a great many young ducks on the shore. Wallace and party have gone on. We were up nearly all night on account of our mules being sick. Arrived the next day at Ash Hollow, a place called from the Ash trees growing in the neighborhood; also from the depredations committed by the Indians and by the great battle fought there by General Harney in 1855 or ' 56, when he killed about 400 of the Sioux. In making the descent into Ash Hollow the hills are among the worst I ever saw, and the sand equal to any in Jersey. We soon came out on the river again, and camped close by a trading post or mail station kept by a Frenchman. We only made one drive today; spent the balance of the time in letting the animals pick up, and mending our old clothes and doing some washing. We have already found Mrs. Douglass very good company. As good weather is scarce we all cook by the same fire. The scenery here is very romantic; by night I am generally tired out. Today we drove about twenty miles, and camped on the banks of the river. Tuesday, July 20, 1858. We got an early start this morning. A six- mule team from Fort Leavenworth to Fort Laramie passed; as the roads here are very sandy, our mules are very tired. While in camp here, Mr. Jones, the old Salt Lake mail contractor, with wagons, passed us on his way to the States, and plenty of mules and ponies. After breakfast, next morning, passed two government wagons loaded with lumber from Fort Laramie, going to Fort Kearney. Camped for lunch at Rush Creek, where we had plenty of Indians around; a detachment of U. S. Troops from Col. May's command passed. They are rushing ahead for Utah. Here we received news about the new gold discoveries at Pike's Peak. Oil has a great notion of going down; they are 175 miles south of this place. Here we had a great deal of trouble with Oil. We finally settled with him, and gave him the Black Pony and some money, and bid good- bye to Oil Scoggins. He was a very desperate fellow. The last night we were together, Tom Atkins and I watched him like a cat would a mouse. I thought several times through the night we would be obliged to shoot him. His brother, who was known as the " Bull of the Woods," was the terror of the road. Our camp today was six miles west of Rush Creek; here we met a party from Fort Bridger, and among the party was old ACROSS THE PLAINS IN 1858 199 Jim Bridger, the mountaineer, on his way to the States. 3 Bridger is one of the oldest men in the mountains, the founder and builder of Fort Bridger. He is a tall, fine looking athletic man. At present he is in the employ of the Utah Expedition as guide and interpreter, it is said, at 1,000 dollars per month. I had a long talk with him, and he assured me he had been in the country forty years. After the heat of the day was over, we again made a short drive, and camped for the evening near what is known as Court House Rock. This is a large mountain that very much resembles a court house and is some 20 miles from the main trail. The next day, passed a number of men from Salt Lake on their way to the States. Chimney Rock, Friday, July 23, 1858. Today we came in sight of what is known as Chimney Rock. It is a formation of earth or sandstone standing up erect, similar to an old chimney. Some of us undertook to walk over to it, but after spending some time, concluded to abandon the trip. We are now also near what is known as Scotts Bluffs; they seem to be about three miles distant, but Douglass, who has been across several times, assures me they are at least 30 miles off. Camped next day near the remains of several adobe houses, that were destroyed during General Harney's campaign against the Sioux Indians in 1855 or ' 56. Tom Atkins killed a very large rattlesnake. I saved the rattles and it proved to be 7 years old. There are a great many of these reptiles in this country. As we draw near to Scotts Bluffs, the trails fork, one leading around the Bluff and the other passes through. We took the latter and found it very romantic. Scotts Bluffs are a high range of hills, that surround a beautiful valley, oval in shape, and about 12 or 15 miles across. The mosquitoes are awful along here. While the boys were preparing breakfast, I took a stroll off to some Indian lodges, that were not far distant. Passed a train at Horse Shoe Creek; here we had some trouble in crossing, and finally camped on good grass and had plenty of good water. While in camp here some very pretty young squaws visited us. One, a young girl about 12 summers, was dressed in a buckskin suit trimmed with antelope teeth. The bucks were very friendly, and •" James Bridger's discharge as guide ( for Johnston's Army), was dated July 2, 1858, at Camp Floyd, and was probably sought by him. He had been away from his business and his family more than a year; and as he could serve the soldiers little further, he hastened eastward over the Overland Trail. At Fort Bridger he found an entirely new establishment, rising Phoenix- like from the ashes under the hands of the soldiers left there. " Friends and interests along the way were numerous, but Bridger proceeded direct to the farm at Little Santa Fe, or Westport, Mo. On arrival in early August a six months' old son, William, whom he had not yet seen, was held out to him as a greeting. But the hands that held the baby were strange, for his wife but a few weeks previously, had passed to her reward, orphaning the family and widowing for the third time the disappointed old scout." pp. 818, 314, James Bridger, a Historical Narrative, by J. CecU Alter. 200 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY made great inquiry about the Pawnees with whom they are at war. They had a few baldheaded eagles and two young antelope playing around. We camped for the night about sundown on a very high elevation. Tom prepared supper, and Jim and I attended to the stock after eating a hearty supper. Then taking a good smoke out of my pipe, and a talk, we retired for the night. The evenings now are most beautiful. We were up very early next day, and passed what is known as Ash Point. Here Laramie Peak comes in view; it is said to be 110 miles off. Camped for the evening near a Trading Post. They had a large herd of cattle and ponies, and like many other Posts of their kind there were a number of Indians close by. There are a few trees on the bottom land of the Platte at this point, and up one of them, was an Indian buried. The Sioux, when one of their people dies, place the body up a tree. A scaffold is first made of some short pieces of timber and the dead Indian placed upon the scaffold, wrapped in all the blankets he possessed, and other tricks such as bow and arrows and so on. Tuesday, July 27, 1858, Fort Laramie. We, this morning have come over some beautiful country and arrived at Fort Laramie about noon, where we found Mr. Wallace and party recruiting their stock; and through the politeness of Captain A. B. Miller, the superintendent and agent of Messrs. Russell, Majors and Waddell we were allowed to come close by. Fort Laramie is beautifully situated on the west bank of the Laramie River, a beautiful clear stream, that takes its head near Laramie Peak and empties into the Platte River. The buildings are all built of adobe, which is a sun dried brick, generally one story high. The Commanding Officers' Quarters were built of frame, and a very pretty home it was, too! Our camp is on the opposite side of the river, where there are a number of buildings put up by Russell, Majors and Waddell for their own accommodation. We are connected to the fort by a ford bridge; the ford is close by. About one and a half miles above us is an Indian village, which I visited several times. July 28th. The boys have been out prowling about the country. I have been in camp all day overhauling some of my old clothes and doing the necessary mending, which I have become very expert at. July 29th. Every day our trip is becoming more interesting, and we are getting along very nicely, after getting away from OH Scoggins. We have kept up our regular style of traveling, and wherever we thought we could make any trade, we do not hesitate in making a short stay. One day as Tom was driving and it was his day to be commander- in- chief of our little party, he drove very carelessly through a company of U. S. Troops on their way to Utah. We were instantly spotted, and after dark, while we were quietly remaining in camp a Sergeant Bois with twelve men walked ACROSS THE PLAINS IN 1858 201 up carelessly to our camp. Tom and Jim were playing cards out one side, and on the approach of these men, I suspicioned something wrong, so I jumped up into the front of our wagon. One of the party stepped up and asked if we had any whisky. I remarked we had; ( there was no use of denying it), but not for sale or to trade. He would like to have a drink; ( of course he would; there never was a soldier that did not like his whisky, because if he did not, he never could have had the misfortune to get in the Army.) I poured out a pretty good poultice for him, and after taking it down, he turned around to the men, and said " Jump in here boys, and throw this whisky out." One of the men as he jumped in, I pushed him out, and he fell across the wagon tongue, and done him serious injury. Of course this created considerable alarm. Every man drew his pistol with the exception of me, and I tell you I thought at one time, we would be obliged to resort to something desperate, but the odds were too great, three against twelve. I did not come down from my position in the front of the wagon, until everything had become quiet. I finally silenced them all and we took the better view of the case; that is to talk it over. I wanted to know by whose authority they were acting, and under whose orders and so on, but to no good purpose. I bade them all put up their weapons, as their sole aim was to destroy our whisky, because they said we had been trading for pistols and soldier clothes, which was false. We had, I suppose, about ten gallons left in a half barrel, which I showed them, and they like Uncle Sam's brave soldiers, thought they were doing a smart thing by making a raid on three unprotected young men. After accomplishing the heroic act they returned to their camp, like a victorious little army, hurrahing and hollering. And we, after making some threats - what we were going to do, went quietly to bed. Next morning we were up and off pretty early, and camped for dinner, near the command. I immediately cleaned myself and walked over to their camp and was soon shown Captain Anderson's tent, where I found him reclining on his cot. I made known to him my business in a clear tone, but it amounted to nothing. He assured me, he was not responsible for their acts, and did not give any order to his men. I was not long in getting back to camp, and I can assure you we kept away from them, after that. That about closed up our stock. July 30th. Col. Morrison's Command passed here today; the men looked well. Our mules have picked up considerable since we have been here, and we left this afternoon, Friday, and made a drive of about six miles and camped on the Platte River. The evening Mr. Douglass and I spent fishing; it was a beautiful bright moonlight night. 202 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY July 31st. Saturday up early. Tom and Mr. Douglass have gone after our mules; they have strayed off some distance. Jim and I prepared breakfast. Passed an old trading post now deserted; the Bluffs here are very high and covered with names. I put mine among the rest. The country through here is very hilly; passed a train going west at Horseshoe Creek, where we camped for dinner. This being such a good camp we concluded not to leave until morning. Monday some little rain. I have been some little amused with an Indian breaking a colt. August 3, 1858, Tuesday, cool and a fine day for traveling. Camped at night at LaBonte; while here a number of Indians called on us, and Capt. A. B. Miller and Henry D. Sherwood came up from Fort Laramie. They had with them a small sandy- complected person known as Kit Carson ( but not the original Kit Carson.) They were of the firm of Messrs. Russell, Majors and Waddell and on their way to Salt Lake City; they camped with us for the night. After we had retired some time, we were aroused by an express from Fort Laramie for Capt. A. B. Miller. August 4th. Wednesday. Miller and party left here this morn-' ing early. The boys today have had fine sport killing sage hen and mountain grouse; they are very plentiful and very tame. Made our camp on a very pretty stream called Wagon Hound. Here we found a train in camp; they were laying over to recruit their stock and the men were prospecting on the stream, where there has been some gold discoveries. Here Mr. Douglass and party left us; we remained behind. Some ox teams came up to us while here; they were bound for California and have been traveling north of the Platte all the way from the Missouri River. They were very much surprised that we had traveled all the way alone, when they had met with so much trouble from the Indians. There was a number of women in the party, and in the evening we had a dance and had a good time in general. Before we left camp a party of Mexicans passed us with wagons loaded with flour, on their way to Fort Laramie, where it is worth $ 20.00 per 100 pounds. Camped for dinner today with a party from Salt Lake City. Our California friends, who we left back at Wagon Hound, came after us again; they are good company, and we intend traveling with them if they do not travel too slow. August 5, 1858, Thursday. Passed a grave on the road with a small board at the head with rude inscription, Solomon Dill of St. Joseph, Missouri. Died June 20, 1850. Crossed two very pretty streams, and saw more wood than we have seen for some time. Camped at night near a ranch on La Prele creek; here we met with a number of Indians and plenty of ponies. August 6th, Friday. Crossed a very pretty stream called Box Elder; here we made a short stay, and I gave the country a short ACROSS THE PLAINS IN 1858 203 survey. I am told that plenty of coal can be found here. On leaving our camp here, we had quite a fight with a rattlesnake, and finally succeeded in killing him with our pistols. Camped for the night at Deer Creek, where there is a blacksmith shop and trading post; this is called De Cota; the agency for the Sioux Indians is just above on the creek. August 7th, Saturday. Our friends bound for California are having their cattle shod. While in this camp I walked up the creek and discovered a large body of coal. An old French mountaineer brought his squaw over to see us; they gave me some antelope, and we in return gave them some bacon. While here, Capt. Campbell's Command came up, and passed and camped about three miles beyond. Jim Simons is with the party, a good looking Delaware Indian, but is chief of one of the bands of Utahs.* There were a number of men passed us from Salt Lake and Camp Scott on their way to the States. August 9, 1858, Monday. We were up early to get ahead some distance of some troops that were traveling close behind. Passed a company of men from Salt Lake City on their way to the States. They had gone out last year, and there being nothing for them to do as citizens, they were formed as Volunteer Companies, and did considerable service as scouting and so on. They were known as the Bull Whacker Volunteers. Camped for dinner near what is known as Muddy Creek, where we did considerable trading with the above party. August 10th, Tuesday. We are now traveling along the Platte River again. Passed the grave of Walter Sanders, died September 1856, a rude board marked the spot, with the above inscriptions cut with a pocket knife. We are now at what is known as the Platte Bridge. An enterprising Frenchman has here bridged the Platte and only charges five dollars for crossing- quite moderate. Here we have a trading post and a large number of Indians lying around. To the left of our camp there was an Indian buried up a tree, which is the custom here with this tribe. The Indian, as soon as they are positive of his death, is well wrapped in a blanket or Buffalo robe and everything that he has is placed up a tree so that the wolves cannot destroy it, for they are very numerous on the river. ' Reference perhaps is made here to Ben Simons, who between about 1854 and 1858 had a " ranch" on the Weber River; ( See Lieut. E. G. Beckwith's Report, in Explorations and Surveys for a Railroad Route From the Mississippi to the Pacific Ocean, vol. 2, p. 10, 11; B. H. Robert's A Comprehensive History of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter- day Saints, vol. 4, p. 309; Otis G. Hammond, ed., The Utah Expedition, passim; and Andrew Jenson, History of North Morgan Ward ( in History of Morgan Stake, MS); or " Jim Simons" may be a brother Ben is supposed to have had. On April 13, 1858, Ben Simons visited Brigham Young in company with " Jim Cherokee," who might conceivably be the same person mentioned by Mr. Ackley. Ben is variously identified as a Delaware, a Cherokee, and " a Frenchman who married an Indian." According to Jacob Forney, for 20 years prior to 1858 Ben Simons had traded among the Mountain Indians. ( Executive Documents, SSth Congress 1st Session, vol X, p. 108). The Weber Valley area was not settled until he abandoned his " ranch" after the " Utah War".- Dale L. Morgan. 204 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY August 11, 1858, Platte River. We did not choose to pay five dollars to cross the river here, so we drove some distance farther up where we had a good crossing considering; but it is very bad as well as very dangerous, in the best of places. After going into camp, Tom Atkins and I swam back to the opposite side to try and make a trade with some Indians who were in camp there. We are now at what is known as the Red Buttes. August 12th. Thursday. Passed Willow Springs; met some men returning to the States camped on Fish Creek. August 13th. Friday. We find a great many dead cattle through this section lying along the trail, caused by being worn out or sometimes drinking the alkali water, or other times murrain kills many. Tom and Jim have been amusing themselves shooting prairie dogs, which we find a great plenty of. Tonight we camp on the beautiful stream called Sweetwater, a tributary of the Platte. August 14th, Saturday. Weather still keeps very pleasant; we made a drive and camped' for breakfast near Independence Rock, which stands up very high and round on top. It is literally covered with names put on in various ways by old Californians in ' 50, ' 51 and ' 52. We are now in the very region of the Rocky Mountains, and are obliged to cross this pretty stream many times. Devils Gate, six miles further on is a very narrow passage in the mountains, where Sweetwater rushes through. Close by here, on the side of the road, we passed the grave of Catharine Todd, of Dallas County, Missouri, died July 16, 1857. There were no other marks on the board. She must have been some woman on her way to California or Salt Lake. After leaving Devils Gate our next camp was on Sweetwater. About 150 ' Rappahoe Indians came charging in camp with several fresh scalps dangling on the end of poles. These fellows belong properly on the Arkansas River, and are up here in search of plunder. We were up early and several miles on our way before sunrise. Traded some tobacco for a pony, of a Trading Post on the road. Passed several graves on the side of the road, one that of a Mr. Brother who was a teamster in one of the trains belonging to Russell, Majors and Waddell, but loaded with merchandise for Miller, Russell and Co., and bound for Salt Lake, of which John Lainhart was in charge. He was one of a party that formed a plan to kill John, get his money, and then take possession of the train and drive across the country to New Mexico. So one fine morning as the train was in motion, and John mounted on his mule, this fellow Brothers came up to John and demanded his money. John told him yes, and at the same time let him have a load of buckshot in his head; so that settled the balance of the party. August 15, 1858, Sunday. At our camp today. For dinner, we amused ourselves fishing with our wagon cover for a net, and Tom killed several with a pole with some nails driven in the end ACROSS THE PLAINS IN 1858 205 as a gig. I also did some hunting for gold by washing with one of our pans, and found very good indication. There have been large quantities found nearer the head; the scenery is most beautiful. 5 After going into camp this evening, Tom and I took a walk to a camp about two miles off, which turned out to be the camp of our old California friends that left us back at Deer Creek; they were glad to hear from us. We had some trouble about finding our camp, as the night had come on. August 16th, Monday. Up early; have been making big drives for several days to catch up to our old friend Douglass' party; they went ahead at Wagon Hound. Did some little fishing again at our new camp. August 17th, Tuesday. We are now in the region of the Wind River mountains; their snowy tops can be seen plainly. For dinner camped on Rock Creek, a tributary of Sweetwater, where we found plenty of good grass and water. As we were crossing Sweetwater today, Tom lost his pistol in the stream and there was some trouble in finding it. August 18th, Wednesday. We leave the river today and enter on the divide. The mail from Salt Lake passed us on its way East. Our pony which we had traded for, gave us some trouble by wanting to run back; camped on Little Sandy, near where some gentlemen were resting on their way to Salt Lake. Among them was a Mr. Clayton, of Philadelphia, who I afterwards became acquainted with. We drove up Sandy about 12 miles, over one of the best roads I ever saw ( not excepting the turnpikes East) to Big Sandy. These streams, Little Sandy and Big Sandy, are tributaries of Green River. Now we are on the western slope. Long before sunrise we were up and had breakfast; overtook a train from New Mexico. I rode some distance with the Wagon Master, picked up some poor fellow's skull, and after carrying it some distance dropped it on the bank of Sandy. Camped for the night on Green River, where we found Douglass and party. They were glad to see us, as much so as though we had been long acquaintances; the attachment between us is that of warm friends. The evening was spent in telling of different little incidents that had happened to each of us. August 20th. We soon came to the crossing of Green River, which is a very pretty stream that heads away north in what is known as the Wind River Mountains. The current seems very swift. We crossed, however, without any trouble, and camped on its west banks, where we found a trading post and one Martin, whom we met just below Kearney, on his way to the States in company with Lt. Green and another officer from Camp Scott. This Martin I will afterwards speak of, ( he was a very desperate • The Sweetwater mines, which boomed ten years later, provided a profitable market for Mormon produce. 206 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY character,) was finally killed. Another post here kept by Pete Mayette, and another a little further up the stream by Aushembo ( Archambeau?), they were all Canadian French, and noted characters in their way. These men all did considerable business with parties going and coming to Utah and California, in 1850 and ' 52 the time there was such a large immigration to California. Bently and Churby Wheettock, with two others, had a ferry here, and in the summer of ' 52 alone, their receipts were over 65,000 dollars in gold, which amount they all squandered in various ways in dressing the squaws, whisky, and gambled it off with certain gambling men that went all the way out there from the Missouri river. At this place the Expedition last summer were in camp for a considerable time and finally sent two of Russell, Majors and Waddell's trains ahead unprotected, and while in camp, some Mormon Scouts came down, drove off the cattle and set fire to the wagons. Of course the government was to blame; they did not even have an escort. I spent considerable time on the very spot where the fire was. The trains were full-' 26 wagons each and very nicely corraled close by each other; the iron part of the wagons was still lying right where they had been burnt out and fallen. I will say more about this hereafter, as it has since caused some considerable argument in our United States court at Washington. After getting away from Green River, our next place of interest was Ham's fork, a very pretty little stream, that empties into Green River some 20 miles below. We are now getting into a more moutainous district, the country very barren, except in the valleys where you find sage brush as thick as the hair on a dog's back. Our troops before crossing here in the Spring had very wisely built a bridge over the stream. We found several men left here to see that the Mormons or Indians did not burn it down. Saturday, August 21, 1858. Up early and crossed the river, which runs very swiftly. Madam Douglass would not allow anyone to drive her across but me. We found a great many Indians encamped here. After our usual rest we drove over to Black's Fork and encamped. There was a little incident that happened some miles back that I must not forget to mention. I afterwards became well acquainted with the party and found them to be gentlemen. It was a bright Sunday morning. We had made a drive before breakfast and camped as near as I could tell on the South Pass, or which is supposed to be the dividing ridge between the waters of the Atlantic and the Pacific Oceans. We had not been there long before two ambulances drove up and went into camp close by a beautiful spring. They turned out to be Capt. Garrison, who figured considerably in the Mexican War, but was now in the employ of Russell, Majors and Waddell, and was on his way to Salt Lake City ACROSS THE PLAINS IN 1858 207 or Camp Floyd to take charge of the business; and with him was Barker, a clerk for Miller, Russell and Co. and George Hewett, ( commonly called Harney,) for the same concern, and Dave Street, a clerk for the Captain, and others in the party whose names I do not now remember. The Captain was a man that was very consequential in his estimation, and so fond of showing off. So he collected the young men around him and walked over to show them the dividing point. About this time up came a Mexican on horseback who belonged to the party. The Captain mounted his mule and undertook to ride over to show the boys the very spot where the water divided to run east and west, sometimes talking in a very eloquent manner. " Now I am approaching the very spot where the water on my right hand flows to the Atlantic and the waters on my left to the Pacific ocean," he said, when his mule made a lunge and the old fellow fell head foremost in the mud, to the merriment of all hands, and his mule, we were obliged to put a rope around his neck, and pull him out. It was a good joke on the old man that none of us who were present will ever forget, and really cannot be described. Sunday, August 22nd. A great deal of rain fell last night. The streams have risen considerably. Passed where two trains had been destroyed by the Mormons early in the spring. I have not been very well for some time. Mrs. Douglass sent me some stewed dried apples, which were very nice and I relished them very much. Drove over to Ham's Fork. Here the United States Troops had built a bridge and left some here to guard it. We stayed here for the night. The wolves were so noisy that we were fearful of our animals. After leaving our camp at Ham's Fork we next stopped where Millersville now stands, ( where Smith's Fork empties into Black's) they both forming one of the tributaries of the Green River or the Colorado that empties into the Gulf of California. Monday, August 23rd. This country all through here was occupied by our troops last winter. Any quantity of dead animals can be seen lying around. A hundred could be counted while sitting on my horse. One place I noticed where five were lying just as close as possible; died from starvation and cold. Animals here after death dry up; they don't decompose as they do in the States. Sometimes you can see them as though resting. You would think they were alive. This is known as old Camp Scott, and will always be remembered by those that were on the expedition, and those that happened to pass by for a time afterward. At one camp in the evening we were visited by a number of Snake Indians. August 24th. While in camp yesterday a soldier came riding by mounted on a fine sorrel horse and a loose horse following alongside. I said to Tom Atkins, " Let's take that horse," and suit- 208 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY ing the words I ran to our own wagon and got a lariat, at the same time telling the soldier who was well armed, that two horses were more than he had any use for. So we captured him and took him up to the wagon and had him tied. This morning we were up early, and Tom rode the pony and led the horse and went on to Fort Bridger to give the horse up and make the five dollars that they gave to persons for such runaway stock. We followed on slowly with our wagon. As we approached Bridger we met about 150 men, some on foot and others mounted, on their way to the States. I noticed one fellow riding my pony with my saddle. I wasn't long getting up to him. The first demand I made, was for him to dismount, which of course he refused, at the same time discussing my authority. I drew my revolver on him and by this time his friends had collected all around, and Jim Packard, Douglass and Ned had run up to see the trouble. ( The fellow had bought the pony from Tom in Bridger, which afterward made a split up with us.) After considerable blowing what we would do, my pistol was put up, and by request of Douglass the fellow was allowed to go on. The country along here is very barren, and almost destitute of vegetation. Fort Bridger is situated in a valley with some little grass. This place was first built about 40 years ago by Jim Bridger, who came to this country with some old mountain men or trappers, and becoming pleased with the life, built a small trading post and did considerable business in trading with the Indians for furs and skins of different kinds, and ponies, and in course of time becoming identified among them by marrying one of their women. Then along about 1840, he had a number of trappers and hunters out on his own hook. These men were generaUy persons fond of the life, and were well posted in the art of trapping furs. They would start out with their rifle and amunition with a certain number of steel traps, and be gone for months together without ever seeing a single soul, living upon the flesh of the animals that they would kill or trap. Sometimes these poor fellows would never be heard of; either meet with an accidental death or sometimes killed by the beast or Indians, or die of sickness. Then after their return, these trappers would collect around Bridger's trading post, and in a few days spend every cent they had so hard worked for, depriving themselves of everything like comfort. At the time of the breaking out of the gold excitement in California, Bridger made a big strike by selling the little necessaries of life to the travelers, as they passed by in 1850, ' 51 and ' 52; the emigration across was very large, and after leaving the Missouri River there was a stretch of about 1000 miles, so by the time they got to his place they were all pretty tired, and their stock in many instances very footsore. Bridger would trade their worn out stock for about one tenth what they were worth, and the stock, after a little rest, would come out fat in about two months. A lame or worn- out steer in that country ACROSS THE PLAINS IN 1858 209 was worth about $ 1.50, and oftentimes the people could not get away on account of their cattle being so low. After the rush to California overland died away, the Mormon emigration kept him up for years. Then in 1857 when the Mormon War started, our troops were encamped in his midst, and that was also a harvest for him. Albert Sidney Johnston, the commander of the Expedition, rented the Fort of him, and made a reserve there of 12 miles square, and put up very good log quarters for the troops, and since then, has always been kept as a military post. Well, to return to our arrival in Bridger. We soon saw Tom Atkins, and I called him to account for selling the pony, and my saddle and bridle so unceremoniously, when he got mad and flared up, so we had a settlement of our effects, he being much larger interested than either Jim or I; so he took the mules and wagon. We broke up entirely, and finally concluded to leave him. Mr. Douglass had very kindly offered to let our scanty supply of baggage go into his wagon and we were to walk into Salt Lake City, 115 miles over very rough road. But after getting to our first camp a few miles out, he was so much ashamed of his capers that he insisted on us coming back into his wagon, which we did; so we all went into Salt Lake City together. The road from here on to Salt Lake is very mountainous. What is known as the Big Mountain is two and one half miles from the base to the top, and is very steep on the other side. While in camp here the mail to the States passed us. Among the passengers was Frank Davidson, whom I had met in Weston, Missouri. August 25, 1858. Several Mormon teams passed us on their way from the valley to Fort Bridger loaded with butter, eggs, cheese, potatoes and so on; merchandise of all kinds brings a good price here; sugar and coffee $ 1.00 per pound, butter 75c, potatoes $ 10.00, and flour $ 12.00 per hundred, eggs 60c per dozen and other things in proportion. Found near our camp today a spring of pure tar running from the side of the hill. This proved very useful to many emigrants for greasing the wheels of their wagons,. Crossed Bear River in the afternoon; this is a very pretty stream of pure spring water and considerable timber on its banks. Thursday, August 26th. Very cold last night. Passed today some very good springs. The country through here is mountainous and very pretty, crossed Yellow Creek and camped beyond for dinner. From here we enter the head of Echo Canyon, which is 26 miles long. It is merely a passage through the mountains, which are very steep on each side, sometimes perpendicular, and very beautiful and variegated in color, almost the entire length. The Mormons have built fortifications on the tops of these mountains, so they could operate against our troops on passing through. A few good men in these fortifications could have kept back a large force, because there would have been no way to get away |
