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Show FATHER ESCALANTE'S MAP By J. Cecil Alter The original map made to accompany the diary of Father Silvestre Velez de Escalante through Utah in 1776, appearing herewith opposite pages 64 and 65, is published now for the first time, so far as known. The photographic copy from which the accompanying plates were reproduced has been in my possession four years, awaiting a suitable opportunity for publication in the Utah Historical Quarterly. Credit is due to Mr. Herbert S. Auerbach for his assistance in enlarging and retouching the photograph in order to secure clarity in reproduction. Though the original is legible and readable almost in its entirety with the aid of a reading glass, many details would have been lost in the plate- making process without this painstaking work. The original is in the Deposito de la Guerra at Madrid, Spain ( No. LM 8a- la- a. 40), according to Col. Lawrence Martin, Chief, Division of Maps, U. S. Library of Congress. The Congressional Library has a photograph of the original map, and it was from this photograph the accompanying reproduction was made, by the gracious consent and cooperation of the Librarian of Congress and Col. Martin. The map is catalogued as No. 593 ( but is not reproduced) in the Woodbury Lowery " Descriptive List of Maps of the Spanish Possessions within the Present Limits of the United States, 1502- 1820," now in the Library of Congress. That the map was made soon after the completion of the expedition is indicated by the following letter, which appears on page 471 of The Diary and Itinerary of Francisco Garces, 1775- 1776: My dear Sir: I have received the diary and the map that you sent me in the letter of the 5th of May, on the discoveries which the right reverend priests. Friar Franco Atanacio Dominguez and Friar Silvestre Velez de Escalante, have made from the capital of this district to the port of Monterey; and at an opportune time I shall communicate to you my decision on this affair. May God keep you many years. Mexico, 30th July, 1777. ( Signed) kisses the hand of you, your most attentive, faithful servant. The Cavallero de Croix. Senor Don Pedro Fermin de Mendinueta, Santa Fe. i « f • t KASO CEOCRKFICO. DE LA > • • • 4, ,'. JtH' tt'tr < " r "* ' l* WkV -/< W fifty** 4* r t hfyU, l « ** *> * V « V'MW * a^ fejTK? l « t* stftil **" » « # # |) ESCALANTE'S MAP 65 The original diary of Father Escalante has been copied in manuscript for a number of archives and individuals; but the all-important map has seldom been mentioned, as if it was not kept with, or did not accompany, the " Dairio." Philip Harry, 1860, had access to and wrote a brief summary of Escalante's diary, in the Peter Force collection ( Simpson's Explorations). Harry says the original diary was then in the archives of the City of Mexico. In trying to trace Escalante's wanderings, Harry observes, " I have not seen Escalante's map ( if he constructed any)." We have no knowledge of the whereabouts of the map, now in the War Department archives at Madrid, before it was taken to that repository. Dean Harris, publisher of the Escalante journal in " The Catholic Church in Utah," ( 1909), says ( p. 98) the map " is presumably lost or destroyed, for the assistant librarian of the National Library, Mexico City, writes us that he had not succeeded in finding any trace of it." However, a copy of this original map, or another of similar character, if indeed it should not prove to be the completed original, dated 1778, is in the archives of Mexico City. Natural History Magazine, New York, for July- August, 1923, p. 346, carries a small drawing of the Zion Park- Colorado River section of Utah, traced from a map " lately found in Mexico, and a photograph thereof sent to Mr. F. W. Hodge of the Museum of the American Indian, Heye Foundation." The map is entitled: " Excerpt from Map of Escalante's Route, dated 1778, showing the country traversed between the Virgin River and the Crossing of the Fathers." We may note also the existence of a map dated 1777, mentioned by Harry, and associated with the journeys of Francisco Garces. This map was also in the Mexico City archives. Howsoever, it should be observed that " R. de los Piramides Sulfureo" ( the Virgin River) on the Madrid map, published herewith, becomes " Rio Sulfureo de los Piramides" on the Natural History reproduction; and " El Rio Grande Colorado" on the Madrid map, becomes " Rio Colorado" on the Natural History map. This may only be a very free translation, though it may also indicate the use of another map. There are of course several other dissimilarities, though none of them are important since the map is " traced," or redrawn, and not copied photographically. Baron Alexander de Humboldt in 1808 discusses Father Escalante's report of the Great Salt Lake region and copied " Lake Timpanogos" onto his map of New Spain from Father Escalante's map, according to Lt.- Gouverneur K. Warren's Memoir, Washington, 1859. In fact an examination shows that the entire northwestern third of Humboldt's map ( the 1811 edition) is taken from Escalante's map and is so credited, at least inferentially, by notes 66 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY in French thereon. Neither Warren nor G. M. Wheeler ( 1889), however, could have found the Escalante map, for their otherwise most excellent collections of early western maps do not include it. Most early cartographers have had the work of others to guide them, at least in general perspective; but Father Escalante's map is obviously based solely upon notes and observations made by him and his men on that original journey. A quadrant was used for determining the latitude of significant places by noting the angular altitude of the sun at noon, and of Polaris, the north star, at night. But their westerly and easterly movements and positions are believed to have been estimated only by the distances traveled and by compass observations. Hence, the foreshortening noticed in the east- west distances on parts of the map. Philip Harry's opinion is that, " Escalante's stated latitudes are not to be depended on; his observations must have been made with very rough instruments. His courses and distances, however, are remarkably accurate when compared with our maps. Escalante's courses appear to be magnetic." Escalante himself says ( p. 165, " The Catholic Church in Utah"): " 13th September. We took observations by the polar star and found ourselves in 41° 19' latitude. ( 14th September.) Before midday, we used the quadrant to confirm our observations by the sun and found ourselves in 40° 59' 24". Judging that the discrepancy might be caused by some variation in the needle, in order to find out, we secured the quadrant ( made it fast? J. C. A.) to observe the north star, which remains on the meridian of the compass at night. ( The magnetic declination is now about 17° E. in Utah generally- J. C. A.) So soon as the north star was visible, the quadrant being on the meridian, we observed that the needle turned to the northeast. We again made the observation of the latitude by the north star and found the same, 41° W, as on the preceding night." The general titles, or text, lettered on the map itself by the original cartographer, are in major part as follows:* ( Upper right, first paragraph) PLANO GEOGRAFICO, DE LA Tierra descubierta, y demarcada por Dn. Bernardo de Miera, y Pacheco al Rumbo del Noroeste y Oeste, del Nuevo Mexico, quien fue en compania de los RRs. P. Ps. fr. franco. Atanacio Domingues, Visitador, Comisario y Custodio de esta; y fr. Silvestre Velez de Escalante; siendo uno del numero de las diez personas ' Grateful acknowledgement is made for assistance in these translations to Mrs. Maybel De Busk, Spanish Instructor, Bryant High School. Salt Lake City. Utah, and to Marvin S. Alter, who, with a microscope eyepiece, a light below the map, and a knowledge of Spanish, transcribed the text from the map to the typewritten lines. ESCALANTE'S MAP 67 que acompanaron a dhas. R. Rs. Padres, como constara en el Diario Derrolero que hicieron a que se remite en todo; con el fin unico del servicio de umbaS Magestades. El que va adjunto en dicho Diario al Comandante General de las Provincias Interas, el Sor. Brigadier de los Rs. Exercitos Cavallero Croix a quien humilde, y rendidamente dedican esta pequena obra por la Direction del Coronel Dn. Pedro Fermin de Mendinueta Governador de este Reyno, para los fines que puedan conducir al bien de tantas almas que desean ser Christianas, y al Servicio de Nuestro Catholico Soberano. Free translation: Geographic plan of a land discovered and mapped by Don Bernardo de Miera y Pacheco, on the way to the northwest and west of New Mexico, who was in the company of the right reverend priests, the Franco friar Atanacio Domingues, visitant, commissary and custodian of this expedition, and friar Silvestre Velez de Escalante, being one of a number of ten persons who accompanied, with the right reverend priests, as it seems evident in the daily journal which they made, in which they noted everything, with the only purpose of service to both Majesties. He who adds to said diary to the Comandante General of the entire provinces is the Senor Brigadier of the Royal Armies, Cavallero Croix, to whom, meekly and humbly, they dedicate this small work by direction of Colonel Don Pedro Fermin de Mendinueta, governor of this district, for the purpose that they may be able to guide to goodness as many souls as want to be Christians, and to the service of our Catholic King. ( Upper right, second paragraph) EL MAR Del Oeste, que ponen en los Mapas nuebos, por este rumbo Dandole de extencion mas de quinientas leguas de Leste a Oeste, y otras tantas de Norte a Sur, comunicandose con los Lagos de los Bueyes, y de estos ala Bahia el Utsum, empezando a pintarle a los . . g. s. a La. ed a la Vanda del Sur, lo que parece, y sin Duda sale ser equivoco, soy de sentir que todo lo que ellos ocuzan con dicho Mar ser tierra Firme, y mui poblada de varias Naciones, que puedan vivir en politica; no enbalde nuestros Es-panoles antiguos desde el tiempo . . . . Fernando Cortes vrosig-uiendo hasta los presents, han anelado a descubrir, y Poblar la Costa de California por muchas noticias que adquirieron de las Gentes que habitaban en estos parages, y el haver salido la Nacion Mexicana de ellos. Free translation: The sea of the west, which they put on the new maps along this route, giving it an extension of more than five hundred leagues from east to west and just as many from north to south, communicating with the lakes of los Bueyes and of those of the Bay of Utsum, beginning to paint it at the south side, as it seems, and without doubt, it turns out to be a mistake. I am sure that all that they cross with said sea is firm land and very populated 68 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY with various nations who can live under one government. Not in vain our old Spaniards from the time that Cortez was following up to the present, have longed to discover and to populate the Coast of California, on account of the many notices that they acquired from the people that inhabit these districts, and have seen the Mexican Nation grow up from them. ( Upper right, third paragraph) TIERRA Incognita que poseen los Cumanchis: Esta Nacion es muy belicoso y feroz, se han hecho duenos de todos los Campos de los Zivoles, desde los Yamparicas, hasta la Provincia de los Texas, es mui diestra en el manejo del. Cavallo, han despojado de sus tierras a la Nacion de los Apaches; senoreandose de todas ellas arrinconandolos a laS Fronteras de las Provincias de nuestro Rey; Estas dos dichas Naciones, son las que hace muchos anos en una Guerra continuada, han Ostilizado este Reyno la una por el Norte, y Oriente, y la otra por el Sur, y Occidente, y ha Uegado a tal consternacion, que no han dejado Pueblos, Villas, y Ranchos de Espanoles a donde no hayan combatido. Free translation: An unknown land which the Comanches possess; this nation is very bellicose and fierce, they have been masters of all the fields of the Zivoles, from the Yamparicas up to the province of Texas. They are very skillful in the management of the valley. They have stolen the land from the nation of the Apaches, becoming masters of all of them, rejecting the frontiers of the provinces of our King. These two said nations are those who, many years ago in the continual war, have hostilized this district, the one in the north and east, and the other in the south and west, and have played such consternation that they have not left towns, villages, and ranches of the Spaniards where they have fought. ( Upper center position) Esta Sierra es el espinazo de esta America Septentrional, y los Rios que de ella nacen a la Vanda deal Oriente entran en la Mar del Norte o seno Mexicano y los del poniente en la Mar del Sur; es muy fria, y lo mas del ano esta cubierta de Nieve, en ella Corian las Grullas por su mucha humedad. Free translation: This mountain range is the backbone of North America; and the rivers that rise in it on the east side enter into the sea of the north ( Hudson's Bay), or maybe the Mexican ( Gulf); and those of the west in the sea of the south; it is very cold and most of the year is covered with snow; in it the cranes used to play or run on account of the great moisture. ( Lower left, east of Colorado River) Esta Nacion Conina hace muchos a . . . e . . . ser Christiana desde el tiempo ir el Padre Espeleta. Fue. el . . . o que les pradico-siend o Mision .. o de Oraibe en donde lo mataron los Moquis el ano de 80 em ia sublebar Gral. ESCALANTE'S MAP 69 Free translation. This Conino Nation many years ago was Christian, from the time that Father Espeleta went to the little meadows. Being a missionary of Oraibe, where the Moquis killed him in a year of general revolution. ( Above the junction of San Juan and Colorado). Las Vegas de los Rios son capaces de poblar mui orandes Poblanor reanimar las Ruinas de Pueblos andanos muy grandes. Free translation: The fields of the two rivers are capable of taking care of a very proud race who will revive ( reconstruct) the ruins of the very large old town. ( Extreme lower left). Este Rio Colorado desde la junta de los dos Rios de Saguga-nos y Navajo, para aba jo va muy encajonado de piedra colorada y muy prof undo, y escarpado su cajon sin arboles. Free translation: This Colorado River from the Junction of the two rivers of Saguganos and Navajo, tumbles down its canyons without trees, very much enclosed with colored rocks, and very deep and rugged. ( Lower west margin). En este parage . . . minamos no proseguir el Rumbo de Monie Rey por la falta del basa menio, y la enerada del Yerba no para . . . qual se hecharon saere. y m. c. . . os . . . mos para les Coninas aun-que por . . . cuenta nos haltova para . egar a E. o. . u. ere. de . o. ce Rey 170 ( or 110) leguas. Free translation: On this expedition we determined not to follow the route of the King because of the lack of food' and the freezing of the vegetation. ( One sentence indecipherable.) Near the lower left corner of the map, within an oval border, but rather badly blurred, is the Explanation of Symbols, reading as follows, with minor omissions. The parenthetical words are free translations of preceding words, and actual symbols or designs are omitted: EXPLICACION PARA LA MEJORANTE AGENCIA Villas. Pueblas De Los Indios Christianos ( Houses of Christian Indians). Pobladon de Espania ( Spanish populations). Abitadon de Gentiles ( Homes of non- Christians). De Yutas y Cumanchis ( Indian settlements, tepees for symbols). Ruinas de Pueblas de Christianos desde la sublebar general. ( After the general revolution.) Ruinas de Abitacion de Espanoles p . . Enemigo ( Enemies). Ojer (?) a (?) Agua. Senal (?) de las Jornada Hacia. ( Overnight campsites.) This last symbol, a circle with a cross rising from it, serves 70 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY in a way to trace the route followed by the travelers across the map; but the symbols are connected with a dotted trail, clearly marked on the original, as reproduced herewith. Nearly all the encampments were named by Escalante, and the following is a complete list of the camp names given as nearly as they can be deciphered in some cases. The parenthetical words are names in present day use; and the indented words and phrases in Spanish are streams, mountains or other features nearby or on the way, as Escalante named them on his map. Unnamed sites are dashed ( )• Sta Fee, Cap'l. ( ) Piedra a Lumbro R. El Cobre ( ) Nutrias R. ( ) Vadio del R. de Chama Las tres Mesas y Lagunas de La Trinidad. Vel duque Sta Maria de las Nieves. R. de S. Juan ( ) R. De Navajoo Sn Cayeiano R. de los Pinos R. de los Animas R. de S. Joaquin, Yuta Indians R. de S. Lazaro R. de N. S. de los Dolores ( ) ( On same stream) Ojito Agua Escondi da El Laberinino de Miera S. Bernardo ( ) R. de las Paraliticas ( Junction with Dolores). ( ) ( Dolores River). Ojo de S. Bernabe S. Luis, R. de S. Pedro S. Philipe Guia Ojo de Lain Cienega, R. de S. Franco ( Uncompahgre) S. Agustin Sta Monica, R. de S. Javier ( Gunnison) Sta. Rga S. Anconino S. Anastado S. Silvestre Sta Rosalia Sn Rafael, Rio de San Rafad, Saguagana Indians, ( Colorado River). Contraguia ESCALANTE'S MAP 71 Natividad Sta Serafina Parajey R. de S. Clemente ( White River). El Barranca Arroyo del Zivolo Sta Cruz, R. de Sn. Buenaventura, ( Green River). Magas de S. Franco S. Cosme, Paraje y R. de S. Clemente, and R. de San Buenaventura, and R. de S. Damian. Eli Plaquio Sta Lucia S. Lino S. Nicholas R. ( Springville, Utah). Rio de San Antonio ( Provo River). ( Party turns southward.) R. de Sta Ana Timpanogos ( American Fork R). Dulce Nombre Jesus ( Spanish Fork town) S. Andres ( Salem.) Ojo de S. Pablo ( Payson) S. Bernardino ( Nephi) Sta. Isabel ( Sevier River). ( ) Ojo y Valle de Zisneros ( Holden) ( ) Valle Salado ( Sevier Lake) ( ) Laguna de Miera ( Sevier Lake) ( near Sevier River outlet). Arroyo Texedor Vegas del Puerto S. Atenogenes Sta Brigidia S. Rustico S. Eleuterio ( ) Valle de S. Jose ( near Beaver city) N. S. Pilar, Rio de Nuestra Senora de Zaragosa. S. Ugolino ( Toquerville) R. de les Piramides Sulfurio ( Virgin River). Arroyo de Tarai ( Hurricane) Estre la Mesa y sin Agua ( dry region toward Short Creek, Ariz). Jubuin Cariri S. Samuel ( Pipe Springs, Ariz). Sta Getrudis ( sic) ( Kanab). Sta Barbara ( Johnson) S. Juan Capistrana S. Bartolome, ( Near Lee's Ferry) S. Fruta, Rio Grande Colorado, ( jet) Sta Teresa, S. Benito Mesa. S. Diego S. Carlos S. Franco S. Vizente, El Rio Grande Colorado, ( Just below Junction of " Rio de Nabajoo," at " The Crossing Of The Fathers.") 72 UTAH HISTORICAL QUARTERLY Concepdon ( ) ( Near Utah- Arizona line) Los Cajones ( ) ( ) ( ) ( ) ( Four camps in Painted Desert) Nacimiento ( ) ( ) Oraibe ( ) ( ) ( ) Ojo de S. J . . . . Ojo de S. Andres Ojo de . . . . Acoma Laguna Isleta Albuquerque ( Old town) Zandia San Domingo Sta Fee. Having before us Escalante's own map, on which he traced his route of travel; and having available present- day maps of travel routes, rivers, valleys, and mountains, it becomes more feasible than ever before to describe and delineate the Padres' route, using names of places in use today; and I know of no one who has devoted more time and effort to a study of this subject than Mr. Auerbach, whose description follows: |