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Show 372 PERSONAL ADVENTURES Scarcely had 've touched bottom, than there came ahout us a crowd of half-clad neO'roes l:l ' n1en and boys, anxious to assist in landing and carrying our luggage. We disembarked opposite a lofty, arched gateway, from 'vbich every particle of wood had disappeared. The place had evidently been built by the early Spaniards, and I surveyed the once massive but now crumbling walls with interest. Upon a height, inside the boundary-wall of the town, stood an enormous stone sentry-box, constructed somewhat after the Moorish style; indeed, I ohserved in many places evidences of a taste for a mongrel Rpecies of architecture, none of the buildings having any pretensions to purity of style. I had heard Panama spoken of as a wretched and insignificant place, but, upon entering the principal street, I was n1ost agreeably surprised. The streets are narrow, it is true; but this peculiarity has its great advantage, inasmuch as it affords shelter from the scorching rays of the sun. The great height of the houses also con· tributes to this effect, and in other respects they are well adapted to obviate the disagreeableness of the climate. This street brought us to the "Plaza," which is partially paved with large stones, and here and there covered with grass; a circumstance that elicited from my companion-one of the IN CALIFORNIA. 273 volunteers-the remark, that it was time the Americans came into the country; for, once here, they would not let the grass grow under their feet. In one corner of the Square stood the guard-house, at the door of which we saw three or four wretched-looking soldiers, without shoes or stockings. I put up at the "American Hotel," at which the usual charge for accommodation is fourteen dollars a week. It is a lofty, substantial house, and, at the time of my arrival, lodged ninety persons, the majority of them Arnericans, on their 'vay to and from California. The table was good, but the beds were tnere cots, with nothing but a couple of quilts for covering. There was one billiard-table in this establishment; and I shall not readily forget the fatigue I incurred in getting up to it, so rnany flights of stairs had I to ascend, and so many questions to ask. After arranging 1ny toilet, and taking son1e refreshment, I sauntered out into the town, and strolled about until I came to a billiard-room, where, without entering, I observed some t'venty or thirty men of colour congregated around it, smoldno- cio-ars bettino· upon the odds, or 'vatch- o 0 ' .I l:l ing 'vith much apparent interest the pr.ogres~ of the game. They were mostly dressed 111 wh1te, and wore Panama hats; and I need not add, |