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Show 34G THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Photograph by Frederick R. Wulsin THE KITCHEN OF A RICH CHOXI TIBETAN Note the matchlock gun on the wall, the abundance of pewter and copper vessels, and the room's fine paneling. It takes seven days to go around the Amne Machin peaks, and the Radja Gomba lamas are to arrange safe conduct with the Ngoloks of this region. EXPEDITION TO AMNE MACHIN PEAKS IS ARRANGED I staved first in Taochow, then went to Hetso Gomba, a large but very unfriendly monastery in the Tibetan grass country, where I made purchases of sheepskin coats for my men, Tibetan boots, woolen caps, etc., for the coming cold. From Iletso I returned to Choni to make final preparations. If I had gone to Sining, I am sure General Machi would have stopped me. As it is, I arranged with tlie new Mohammedan sect at Old City Taochow to take me in to Radja Gomba. This Mohammedan sect, called the New Sect, is a recent religious organization, at the head of which is a wealthy Moslem who calls himself Jesus the Savior. His followers trade with the Tibetans of Radja Gomba and the Ngoloks of the Amne Machin. Their men go in twice a year with about 200 head of yak laden with salt, chili peppers, cotton cloth, trinkets of brass, brass kettles, etc., and bring out in return furs, musk, and other valuables from the Ngolok country. These men bought for me 22 yaks and have allotted me five carriers and a headman, all of whom have been to Radja Gomba, which is 16 days from Taochow. THE FIRST WHITE MAN TO VISIT AMNE MACHIN PEAKS At Radja Gomba the Yellow River is crossed on inflated pigskins, and from there it is four days to the Amne Machin peaks. ?o all arrangements have been made, and I am ready to start in about a week, not to emerge until next November. |