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Show fields, just ploughed but now deserted, and every mile or so were some dirty, sad-looking little huts made of mud, whose use I couldn't understand. The river, at astonishingly regular intervals, made a curve to the right and then to the left; and for hours I waited to see China appear as I had known it in my imagination. But I waited in vain. There was no change in the landscape and no change in the tempo at which we followed along the river. And still there were these dirty-looking little huts along the banks which gave everything such a touch of unfriendliness, because one felt the dampness and darkness inside seeing that there were no windows, or only small ones which had no glass but white paper instead. Could these be homes? Impossible! No human being could live in such wretched things! A kind-looking man was standing at the rail watching the surroundings as I was; but he seemed to be so much more cheerful; and when I passed by, I heard him saying to an elderly lady, "These Chinese are very clever indeed. Their houses are built in such a way that they are cool in summer and warm in winter."' "Oh yes," replied the lady, "I can hardly tell you, John, how happy I feel to be in China again. I think it is just beautiful." I rubbed my eyes; I felt as if awaking from a dream. I looked with the greatest astonishment at the couple who very definitely enjoyed this trip which seemed to me an endless journey through a colourless plain. And when I caught her next words I was in doubt whether I was sick or they had lost their minds. "Oh, just look at those little dirty kids; aren't they cute?" I took my seat again with my two blankets, wrapped my face in my coat; and because I couldn't cry, I thought of my mother and made plans how to get out of North China again. I felt an almost painful emptiness in my stomach, but I didn't want to eat. I felt that I was sufficiently protected against the cold, but how I shivered! And the coldness came from inside. I tried to think about something nice, but only little brown huts appeared before me - so dreadful, sad, and poor. I wanted to force myself into some kind of optimistic cheerfulness, but I was helplessly depressed. Indifferent to everything, I landed late in the evening on the British Concession Bund and took the train to Peking. There I needed another permit and another vaccination certificate and another travelling pass; and by the time I got all these I was too tired, too distressed, to take notice of the city and of all.the strange things in it which could have cheered me up. We left Peking early next morning. Three rickshaws were waiting to take me and my things to the station. I gave them all my luggage and started to walk beside them; but before I could do anythng I was pushed into a rickshaw, and off we went. My coolie, a slender youth, ran and ran not a bit different from the way a good horse runs before a carriage. I have seldom felt more ashamed than during this short ride. |