Oral history interview of Jesse Williams, conducted by Tallie Casucci (audio and transcript)

Jesse Williams (b. 1971) grew up in Richmond, VA, and spent his childhood and youth doing outdoor sports, riding BMX bikes, wrestling, and rock climbing. Jesse went to Middlebury College in Vermont, where he spent more time climbing in the Adirondack Mountains. After graduating with an Environmental Studies / Biology degree, Jesse became a ski patroller in Vermont and climbing instructor and guide in the Adirondack Mountains. Jesse shares several stories about the climbing in the Adirondacks, including the style and ethics at that time. Jesse worked on Rainer to learn alpine glacier and snow guiding tactics, so he could eventually guide more in the Cascades, Tetons, and Alaska. He discusses the challenges with guiding, but also the rewarding aspects. After 20 years of guiding, Jesse moved to Salt Lake City to manage Petzl America's new technical training facility. During the first few months of the COVID-19 lock-down and pandemic, Jesse wrote the work method manuals, risk assessments, and programs for the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance's professional anchor maintenance crew, a solution to aging anchors and the challenges with volunteer work. This documentation for the employee crew strives to be compliant, defensible, and effective. Jesse trained available technicians, oversaw three pilot projects at Gate Buttress (LCC), Hellgate (LCC), and Pipe Dream (Maple Canyon), and operated the first year of the program throughout the Wasatch & Uintas in 2021.