Doug Heinrich, Salt Lake City, Utah: an interview by Matt Driscoll, 20 July 2010

Transcript (54 pages) of an interview by Matt Driscoll with Doug Heinrich on 23 July 2010; Part of the Outdoor Recreation Oral History Project, Everett Cooley Collection tape no. U-3016

Doug Heinrich (b. 1962) was introduced to climbing when he was twelve years old by a classmate. Early on he took climbing lessons with Jim Dockery, a local legend, and during his first year in climbing he achieved the summit of the Grand Teton on a guided climb. He quickly developed an interest in summiting alpine peaks. Doug discusses the Salt Lake climbing community of the late-70s and '80s, identifying some of the key figures involved in pushing grades and new-route development. He shares his opinions about the fascination with first ascents, explaining how this was not a priority or fascination for him. That said, Doug has developed some classic new routes, specifically on Big Walls in Zion National Park. He describes himself as not particularly good at any aspect of climbing but certainly able at all aspects: rock climbing, Big Walls, mountaineering, ice climbing, etc. Doug tells stories of working with Conrad Anker at The North Face store in Salt Lake City prior to Conrad's rise to stardom. Doug climbed with many of Salt Lake's most prominent mountaineers, a number of whom have tragically died in the mountains. After working at TNF, he went on to manage IME before moving to Black Diamond, where he continues to work. Doug describes the history of Black Diamond and also provides an overview of some of its more significant efforts in product development.Outdoor Recreation Oral History Project. Interviewer: Matt Driscoll